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MEN  AND    TIMES 


OF 


IHE  EEVOLUTION; 


OR, 


MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON, 


INCLUDING 


lonrnalB  of  %xMb  in  Europe  anb  %mtxm, 


FROM    1777    TO    184^ 


HIS  CORRESPONDENCE  WITH  PUBLIC  MEN  A.ND  REMINISCENCES 
AND  INCIDENTS  OF  THE  REVOLUTION. 


EDITKD    BY    HIS    SON, 


WINSLOW   C.    WATSON 


NetD-IJark  : 

DANA   AND   COMPANY,   PUBLISHERS 

No.   381    Broadway. 

1856. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by 
DANA   AND    COMPANY, 

In  the  Clerk's  Ojffice  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New-York. 


PUDNEY  &  RUSSELL,  PRINTERS, 
79  John-Street,  N.  Y. 


PREFACE. 


My  father,  from  the  age  of  nineteen  to  near  the  close  of  his 
life,  which  was  protracted  to  more  than  four-score  of  years, 
was  in  the  habit  of  recording  his  observations  of  men  and 
incidents,  as  the  events  occurrred  to  which  they  relate. 

This  period  embraced  the  epoch  of  the  War  of  Independ- 
ence, and  of  those  amazing  mutations  which  have  marked  the 
transformation  of  dependent  colonies  into  a  mighty  nation  ; 
and  of  a  rude  and  sequestered  wilderness  into  a  territory  teem- 
ing with  beauty,  cultivation  and  affluence. 

In  Europe  and  America  he  was  in  the  midst  of  the  scenes 
of  this  pregnant  era,  an  intimate  associate  with  many  of  the 
individuals  who  impelled  or  guided  these  changes,  and  a  vigi- 
lant observer  of  the  occurrences  connected  with  their  devel- 
opment. 

The  journals  of  my  father  form  a  large  body  of  manuscript, 
which,  in  connection  with  a  multiplicity  of  publications  on 
various  and  most  diversified  subjects,  and  a  highly  extensive 
correspondence  with  some  of  the  most  eminent  men  of  our 
annals,  comprehend  many  volumes.  These  materials  consti- 
tute the  elements  of  the  work  I  now  respectfully  submit  to  the 
public. 

I  have  intended  to  compress  it  iAto  as  narrow  space  as 
practicable  ;  although  the  mass  of  original  documents  in  my 
possession,  is  far  from  having  been  exhausted  by  the  contents  of 
this  publication.  In  my  selections  from  the  correspondence  of 
my  father,  I  have  refrained,  with  a  few  and  special  exceptions, 


IV  PREFACE. 

from  the  introduction  of  any  letters  written  by  men  who  are 
still  living. 

In  1821,  my  father  revised  and  compiled  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  his  earlier  journal,  and  arranged  them  in  a  consolidated 
form.  Several  years  preceding  his  death,  I  had  advanced  in 
the  preparation  of  this  work,  to  nearly  the  period  of  his  return 
from  Europe.  This  part  of  it  received  his  careful  revision. 
My  labors  were,  at  that  point,  arrested  by  feeble  health ;  but, 
at  his  decease,  all  of  his  literary  papers  were  confided  to  me, 
as  his  literary  executor. 

In  arranging  the  narrative  of  personal  incidents,  and  the 
correspondence,  for  publication,  I  have  felt  constrained  to 
withhold  much  of  a  private  and  confidential  character,  although 
it  possesses  peculiar  intrinsic  value  and  interest.  I  have  been 
deeply  solicitous  to  avoid  not  only  all  appearance,  but  to  escape 
every  suspicion  of  having  violated,  in  any  instance,  the  sanctity 
of  friendship,  or  of  exposing  to  the  public  eye  the  frank  and 
unguarded  communications  of  confidential  intercourse. 

A  remarkable  prescience  will  be  often  observed  in  the  writ- 
ings of  my  father,  when  results  and  effects  will  appear  to  have 
been  anticipated  with  singular  sagacity,  from  existing  causes. 
Many  other  coincidences  of  a  still  more  striking  character,  I 
have  omitted,  from  an  apprehension  that  the  idea  might  be  ex- 
cited, that  the  speculations  had  been  recorded  after  the  events 
occurred,  which  they  profess  to  foreshadow. 

The  extraordinary  and  perilous  journey  of  my  father,  in  the 
crisis  of  the  Revolution,  from  Massachusetts  to  Georgia;  his 
subsequent  expedition  from  New-England  to  North  Carolina, 
soon  after  its  termination  ;  his  travels,  at  a  later  period,  in 
newly  occupied  territories  ;  and  his  explorations  of  districts, 
almost  in  their  primeval  condition,  opened  to  him  capacious  fields 
of  observation  and  reflection.  His  journals  reflect,  during 
these  events,  his  daily  impressions,  formed  by  occurrences  as 
they  transpired.  They  contain  a  critical  exhibition  of  the 
state  of  the  country,  the  aspect  of  society,  the  modes  of  inter- 
course, the  existing  prospects,  the  population  and  condition  of 
cities  and  villages,  the  industrial  pursuits,  the  commerce  and 


PREFACE.  V 

internal  communications  of  the  country,  recorded  at  the  time, 
and  from  personal  inspection.  I  think  no  similar  memorial  of 
that  period  exists. 

Presuming  that  these  features  of  his  works  would  be  re- 
garded  with  interest  by  the  American  people,  I  have  preserved 
them  with  considerable  minuteness. 

1  venture  to  hope,  that  the  account  he  presents  of  the  inci- 
dents of  his  travels  ;  his  descriptions  of  the  various  districts  of 
America  he  explored,  and  his  illustrations  of  the  appearance 
and  state  of  the  country,  and  the  varied  phases  of  its  society, 
will  be  found  of  value,  and  instructive.  They  will,  I  trust,  be 
esteemed  an  important  acquisition  to  our  sources  of  national 
history,  as  they  afford  data  by  which  the  vast  progress  of  the 
Republic,  in  its  prosperity  and  power,  may  be  best  realized 
and  most  adequately  appreciated 

These  views  will  explain  to  the  reader  the  object  of  my  present- 
ing, with  so  much  occasional  particularity,  notices  of  places,  geo- 
graphical observations,  descriptions  of  the  means  of  travelling — 
of  the  exposures  and  inconveniences  to  which  he  was  subjected 
and  the  absence  of  facilities  and  accommodations  which  he 
encountered  in  his  extended  American  wanderings.  The  facts, 
thus  exhibited,  will  portray  more  vividly  to  the  mind,  than  any 
elaborate  comments,  the  magic  changes  and  the  unparalleled 
advance,  which,  in  three-fourths  of  a  century,  have  signalized 
the  career  of  our  country. 

While  sojourning  in  Europe,  during  the  Revolution,  for  the 
term  of  about  five  years,  my  father  travelled  extensively  in 
France,  England,  Flanders  and  Holland. 

The  patronage  and  friendship  of  Doctor  Franklin  and  Mr. 
-Adams,  introduced  him  into  the  refined  circles  of  French  soci- 
ety, and  to  an  intercourse  with  the  eminent  statesmen  and  philo- 
sophers of  England.  He  was  the  bearer  of  despatches  from 
Paris  to  London,  connected  with  the  preliminary  negotiations 
which  resulted  in  the  treaty  of  peace ;  and,  among  a  very 
limited  number  of  Americans,  was  present  in  the  House  of 
.  Peers,  when  the  King  of  Great  Britain  acknowledged  the  inde- 
pendence of  the  American   colonies.     His  journals  embrace 


ample  details  of  these  events,  and  descriptions  of  tlie  countries 
he  visited — their  scenery,  resources  and  conditions,  and  the 
manners  and  peculiarities  of  their  people,  with  reminiscences 
of  the  distinguished  persons  with  whom  he  associated. 

In  my  anxiety  to  secure  brevity,  I  may  have  too  much  con- 
tracted this  portion  of  my  materials. 

The  portion  of  this  work  devoted  to  an  account  of  the  ori- 
gin, history  and  influence  of  the  Berkshire  Agricultural  Soci- 
ety, and  my  father's  labors  in  the  cause  of  agriculture,  may  not 
have  interest  to  the  mere  politician  or  student,  but  to  that  large 
and  growing  class  of  intelligent  readers,  who  are  connected 
with  husbandry,  either  in  its  practical  pursuits,  or  as  promoters 
of  its  scientific  progress,  the  views  and  facts  contained  in  that 
department,  will  possess,  I  think,  more  than  ordinary  value. 
It  will  be  enriched  by  the  voluminous  correspondence  of  John 
Adams,  Chancellor  Livingston,  Colonel  Humphreys,  Richard 
Peters,  and  other  eminent  rural  and  political  economists  on 
agriculture  and  its  kindred  topics. 

The  influence  of  my  father's  New-England  education,  will 
be  discovered  in  incidental  remarks  on  subjects  of  local  pecu- 
liarities and  domestic  interest ;  revealed,  however,  without 
bitterness  or  intolerance  :  the  fervor  of  the  whig  sentiment  of 
'76  is  exhibited  in  severe  strictures  upon  the  character  and 
policy  of  England  ;  the  prejudices  of  his  puritan  birth  are 
occasionally  betrayed — ^excited,  however,  by  the  abuses,  as  he 
regarded  them,  of  some  of  its  institutions,  rather  than  the 
tenets  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

These  I  have  deemed  it  expedient  to  preserve,  as  the  expres- 
sion of  opinions  and  sentiments  which  were  cherished  at  that 
remote  period,  without  assuming  either  their  defence  or  repu- 
diation. 

It  has  not  been  my  design  to  present  a  minute  detail  of  the 
life  of  a  private  citizen,  but  merely  to  trace  an  outline  of  it,  in 
order  to  form  a  tissue  upon  which  I  may  interweave,  with  some 
symmetry  and  system,  his  journals,  his  observations  and  reflec- 
tions ;  the  projects  he  initiated,  the  speculations  he  advanced ; 
his  notices  of  men  and  incidents,  and  the  public  events  with 


JPREFACB!.  vii 


wKIch  he  was  connected,  or  had  contemplated  as  a  close  and 
attentive  observer. 

It  is  proper  I  should  state,  in  conclusion,  that  I  have  not  in- 
troduced into  this  work  any  portion  of  the  correspondence  of 
my  father  with  many  eminent  persons,  which  I  have  in  my 
possession  ;  and  that,  generally,  I  have  selected  only  a  part  of 
the  letters  from  the  writers,  whose  correspondence  I  have 
used. 

These  materials  form  a  large  volume  of  documents,  which  I 
contemplate  publishing  at  some  future  period. 

W.  C.  Watson. 

Port  Kent,  Essex  Co.,  N.  Y., 
August,  1855. 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Birth — School — Generals  Scammel  and  tV^adsworth — Premonitions  of  the 
Revolution — Military  Companies — Lexington — Carry  Supplies  to  the  Army — 
Military  Tyro — Seizure  of  John  Brown — Schooner  Gaspee — First  cruise  against 
British  Flag — Inoculation — Magic  Egg — Retort  on  Tories — Service — Prospect 
of  Colonies.— 1-26. 


CHAPTER  n. 

Journey  to  South  Carolina — Connecticut — Suffering  Patriot — New-Jersey — 
Capt.  Hoogland — German  Population — Lafayette — Moravian  Brethren — Rope 
Ferry— Reading — Penn — Dunkers— Lancaster — Enter  Virginia — Slares  .—27-33 . 


CPIAPTER  ni. 

Night  Travelling — An  Incident — Fredericksburgh—Williamsburgh— Jamestown 
— James  River — Suffolk — Arrest — Dismal  Swamp— Edenton — Hugh  Williamson 
— Hutchinson  Letters — Scenery — Pamlico  Sound — Deer — Wild  Turkeys — Tur- 
pentine making — River  Neuse — Newbern — A  Night  Bivouac — Wilmington — 
Deer  Hunting — Opossum — The  Ocean — Gen.  Mcintosh — Capture  of  Burgoyne 
— Southern  Hospitality — Runaway  Negroes — Wingan  Bay — Georgetown — 
Charleston.— 34-43. 


CONTENtg. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Orange  Orchard — Fire  at  Charleston — Gov.  Rutledge — Tour  in  Georgia — 
Warmth  of  Season — Gouging  Match — Amusing  Scene — Indians — Little  Carpen- 
ter— Port  Royal  Island — Cotton  Picking  by  hand — Eli  Whitney's  Cotton  Gin — 
Beaufort— Dr.  Zubley— Silk— Tea— Savannah.— 44-51 . 


CHAPTER  V. 

Rice — Cotton — Whitefield — Ogeechee  River — Planter's  Residence — Slaves^ 
Face  of  the  Country — Products — Health — Woods  on  Fire — Charleston — Fort 
Moultrie — Females — Departure — Sergeant  Jasper — Night  Adventure — Negro 
Sale — Tarborough — Halifax — Roanoke  River — Horned  Snake — Blazed  Trees — 
James  River. — 52-59. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

^« 
Hanover    Court-House — Election — Manners — Fight — Alexandria — Potomac — 

Inland  Navigation — Slavery — Washington  City — Baltimore — Pennsylvania — ■ 
Contrast — Pennsylvania  Farmer — Valley  Forge — Bethlehem — Moravian  Cere- 
mony— Continental  Troops — Small-Pox — General  Reflections. — 60-66. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Rhode  Island — Newport — Providence — Plymouth — Boston— Marblehead— 
Salem — New-Hampshire — Lexington — Climate — General  Remarks — Painful 
Scene— Mrs.  Rennals— Siege  of  Newport— John  Hancock— James  Otis— Count 
D'Estaing — Gen.  Sullivan — Battle — Determine  to  go  to  France — Packet  Mercury 
— Henry  Laurens. — 67-75. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

Sail  for  Europe — St.  George's  Banks — Porpoises — Whales — Take  a  Dolphin — 
France— St.  Martins— Isle  De  Rhe— Manners— La  Rochelle— French  Vehicle- 
Postillion— La  Vendee— Nantes— Horse  Patrol— Safety  in  Travelling— Amiens 
—Angers— Beggars— Peasantry— Versailles— Lanterns— Paris.— 76-85. 


CONTENTS.  XI 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Dr.  Franklin — Count  De  Vergennes— King  and  Queen — French  Dinner  and 
Manners — Paris — Gates — Police— Manufactures— Louvre— Dr.  Franklin's  Stand- 
ing and  Influence— Notre  Dame— St.  Germain's — Marlie — St.  Cloud's — Elysian 
Fields — City  of  Orleans — Payed  Road — Vineyards — Peasantry— Forest— Fuel  of 

France — Canals — Orleans — Burgundy — Languedoc — Blois — Illumination 

Grand  CauBeway — Night  Travelling — Roman  Work — Tours — Angers.— 86-97. 


CHAPTER    X. 

Ancinis— Invasion  of  England— Importance  of  American  Revolution— Wed- 
ding— Wooden  Shoes — Peasantry— Dancing— Degradation  of  the  People — Effects 
of  the  Revolution— Musical  Taste— Taking  the  Veil— Letter  from  John  Adams- 
Count  D'Artois— Regal  Hunting— Royal  Privileges. — 98-104. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Rennes—Moreau— Customs— Fashionable  Dinner— Tom.  Paine— Contest  with 
a  Priest— Louis  Littlepage— Journey  to  Paris— Country  Cure— Monks  of  La 
Trappe — Mrs.  Wright— FrankUn's  Head— Anecdotes.— 105-123. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Chantilly— Lisle— Ostend— Canals Bruges — Ghent— Silas  Dean — Letter 

from  Author  of  McFingal— Tomb  of  Rousseau— Dr.  Franklin— Capture  of  Corn- 
wallis— De  Vergennes'  Circular.— 124-134. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

Correspondence  with  Washington — Mercantile  Prosperity— Influenza— Col. 
Laurens — Henry  Laurens — Paris— Envoys— Journey  to  England— Amiens- 
Boulogne — Calais — Mon.  Dessein—Yorick— Cross  the  Channel— Changes- 
Reynolds'  Escape— Dover— London— Lord  Shelburne— Comparison  of  France 
and  England— Duke  of  Manchester— English  Society— Greenwich  Hospital— 
Blackheath— Dr.  Price. — 135-149. 


XII  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    Xrv. 


Royal  Family — Child,  the  Banker — Irish  Giant — Anecdote — English  Travel- 
ling— Country — Oxford — Woodstock — Stratford  on  Avon— Shakspeare — Birming- 
ham—Tory Relatives— Peter  Oliver— Dr.  Priestly— Mr.  Watt— Letter  of  Dr. 
Franklin — Anecdote — Letters  from  John  Adams — Dr.  Moyes — Sister  of  Garrick 
— Litchfield — Road  to  Liverpool — Alarm — Impressment — Liverpool — Warrington 
— Country  Frolic — Manchester — Worsley  Mills — Subterranean  Navigation — 
Rockdale  Church — Tempest — Beautiful  Scenery — Halifax. — 150-166. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Establishment— Leeds— Clothier's  Hall — Political  Sentiments — Sheffield — Mat- 
lock— Lead  Mine — Singular  Petrifaction — Derby — Broom  Grove — Worcester — 
Tevpksbury — Bristol — Bath — Death  of  Col.  Laurens — Devizes — Rottcnborough — 
Earl  of  Effingham — English  Nobility — Edmund  Burke — Prince  of  Wales — Des- 
tiny of  England — Opera — Portrait  by  Copely — House  of  Lords — King's  Speech 
Recognizing  American  Independence — Reflections — House  of  Commons — Inter- 
view with  Lord  Shelburne — Windsor — Royal  Family — Return  to  Paris — Treaty 
— Anecdote — Letter  of  Monsieur  Demmartin. — 167-183. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

Nantes — Roman  Tower — Leave  Nantes — Royal  Hunt — Commercial  Distress 
— Margate — Portsmouth— Isle  of  Wight — Salisbury— Old  Sarum — English  Elec- 
tion— Fox  and  Howe — Ignorance  of  America — Wildman — Bees — London  and 
Paris.— 184-193. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Passage  to  Holland— Helvoetsluys— Storks— Brielle— Revolution — The  Maese 
—Rotterdam— American  Flag— Dutch  Chimes— Braakle—Truckscutes  Country 
— Delft— William  of  Orange — Hague — Churches— Mr.  Adams — North  Sea — Gar- 
dens—Mon.  Dumas— La  Maison  du  Bois—Ryswick— Incident— Letter  of  Mr. 
Adams — His  Position  and  Character— Letter  from  him — Description  of  Hague — 
Leyden — Mon.  Luzac — Description  of  Leyden — Monument  to  Boerhaave. — 194- 
213. 


CONTENTS.  XttI 


CHAPTER   XVm. 


Haarlem — Koster — Printing — Faust — Haarlem  Organ —  Lake — Amsterdam — 
Public  Buildings — Spill  House — Rasp  House — Punishment — Sardam — Bruck — 
Utrecht — Political  Excitement — Canal  Travelling — Rhine — The  Seven  Provinces 
— Scheldt — Antwerp — Roads — Country  Manners — Holland — Zealand — Friedland 
— Reflections— Form  of  Government— American  Confederacy— Canals. — 214-230. 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

Land  in  England — Tea  Drinking — Anecdote — Incident — Granville  Sharp — Ig- 
natius S^ncho — Homeward  Voyage — Gale — Sailor's  Superstition — Land— Amer- 
ican Farmer — Discontents — Lecture — Home — Gen.  Green. — 231-238. 


CHAPTER  XX> 

Passage  to  New-York — Hurl-Gate — New- York — Long-Island — Dr.  Moyes — 
Journey  to  Philadelphia — Robert  Morris — Philadelphia — Journey  to  Baltimore — 
Baltimore — Alexandria — Visit  Mt.  Vernon — Washington — Falls  of  the  Potomac 
— Canals — Annapolis — Stage  Sleighs — Journey  North — Journey  to  North  Car  o' 
lina — Norfolk — Mode  of  Travelling — Interior  of  North  Carolina — Marine  Shells 
— Mrs.  Ashe  and  Col.  Tarleton—Halifax—Warrington — Anecdote — Deer-Hunting 
—Nut-bush  Adventure— Scotch-Irish— Battle-Ground  of  Guilford.— 239-254. 


CHAPTER    XXT. 

Moravians — Quakers — Yadkin — Mecklenburgh — Gen.  Polk — Visit  Catawba 
Indians — Indian  Chief — New  River — Educated  Indian — Indian  Queen — Hanging 
Rock — Gen.  Sumpter — Flat  Rock — Camden — Battle-Field — Gates  and  Green — 
Adventure — Western  Emigration — Yankee  Trick — Cock-Fight — New  Constitu- 
tion—Election—Party Contest— Return  North.— 255-264. 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

Materials  for  the  Work — Marriage — Springfield,  Western  Massachusetts — 
Hudson — Albany — John  De  Neuville — Schenectady — Col.  Talbot — Johnson  Hall 
— Mohawk  Valley — German  Population — Revolutionary  Sufferings — Site  of  Utica 
— Privations — Whitesborough — Settlers — Mohawks — Gen.  Herkimer — Battle- 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

Field — Indians — Fort  Stanwix — Treaty — Wood  Creek — Inland  Navigation — 
Peter  Otsequette — Descent  of  the  Mohawk — Site  of  Troy — Lansingburgh — Half- 
Moon — Cohoes  Falls — The  Hudson — Romance  in  Real  Life — ThriUing  Incident 
— Residence  in  Albany — Freedom  of  the  City — Local  Improvements — Albany 
Bank — Incident — Grave  of  Franklin — Last  Interview^  v^rith  him — Franklin  and 
Adams.— 265-287. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

New  Lebanon  Springs — Shakers — Saratoga — Ballston — Western  Tour — Ger- 
man Population — Mohaw^k  Valley — Bateau  Travelling — Night  Bivouac — Fort 
Stanwix — Wood  Creek — Canal  Improvements — Write  Home — Oneida  Lake — 
Fish — Anticipations — Hermit — Fort  Brewerton — Onondaga  River — Salmon — 
Indian  Fishing — Indians — King  Kiadote  and  Queen — Indian  Tongue — Seneca 
River— Salt  Lake— Salt  Works— Canals.— 288-302. 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

Robbery — Indian  Salt  Makers — Indian  Royal  Family — Indian  Habits — Seneca 
River — Encampment — Aromatic  Grass — Salt  Deposites — Salt  Manufactures — 
Salt  Marshes — Cayuga  Lake — Medical  Practice— Pioneers — Healthiness  of  Sav- 
age Life — Seneca  Falls — Canals — Prospects — Country — Seneca  Lake — Geneva 
— Appletown — Indian  Orchard — Gen.  Sullivan — Senecas — Religious  Meeting — 
Navigate  Seneca  Lake — Ovid — Return — Description  of  Cayuga  and  Seneca 
Lakes — Aspect  of  the  Country — Want  of  Water — Indian  Navigation — Attrac- 
tions of  the  Country — Speculative  Views — ^^Connection  of  the  Lakes  and  Susque- 
hanna River— First  Western  Stage.— 303-315 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

N^  Appeals  to  the  Legislature  and  public  on  the  subject  of  Inland  Navigation- 
Labors  in  that  Cause — Gen.  Schuyler — Letter  from  him — Canal  Law,  '92 — Let- 
ter from  Gen.  Schuyler — Letter  from  Robert  Morris — Tribute  to  him — Cana' 
Companies — Effects  of  Improvement — Niagara  Falls  Canal — Company  Organ- 
ized— Canal  Controversy  of  1820 — De  Witt  Clinton — Hosack's  Memoirs  of  him 
.   — Letter  of  Robert  Troup  to  Dr.  Hosack — Letters  of  John  Adams. — 316-331. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

Attacks  on  Land  Office— Character  of  Gen.  Schuyler— Gen.  Varnum— Sketch 
of  his  Life — Letter  to  his   Wife — Talleyrand — French  Emigrants — War  with 


CONTENTS.  XV 

France — Truxton — Projects  of  Local  and  Public  Improvements — Chancellor  Liv- 
ingston— His  Character  and  Services — Letters  from  him — Louisiana  Treaty — 
Introduces  Merino  Sheep — Sheep  Shearing  Festival — Prices  of  Merinos — Doctor 
Mitchell — Gen.  Humphreys — Letter  from  him — Steamboats — Mr.  Muller — Music 
from  Jews'  Harps — Letters  to  and  from  John  Adams — Hostility  of  Hamilton  to 
him.— 332-348. 


CHAPTER  XXVIL 

Tour  to  Vermont  and  Lake  Champlain — Ballston — Sans  Souci — Manners — 
Saratoga — Congress  Hall — Culture  of  Sand  Plains — Glenn's  Falls— Lake  Geprge 
— Sail  Down — Beautiful  Scenery — Fish — Outlet  of  Lake  George — Ticonderoga — 
Crown  Point — Lake  Champlain — Vermont — Farms  and  Farmers — Vergennes — 
Arnold's  Fleet — Burlington — Sand  Bar — Grand  Isle — Cumberland  Head — Platts- 
burgh — Saranac  Indians — Country — Peru  —Quakers— Splendid  View  from  Hal- 
lock's  Hill — Historic  Ground — Au  Sable  River — Adgates'  Falls — Walled  Banks 
of  the  x\u  Sable — Willsboro'  Mountains — Ferry — Valley  of  Otter  Creek — Middle 
bury — Gen.  Nixon — Rutland — Union  College — Dr.  Nott — Sermon  on  Death  of 
Hamilton— Incident — Politics — Letters  from  Dr.  Nott — Party  Contest,  1807 — 
Letters  on  that  subject  from  Eli.' ha  Jenkins,  Thomas  Tillotson,  and  E.  C.  Genet 
—349-363. 


CHAPTER  XXVIIL 

Removal  to  Pittsfield — Berkshire  County — State  of  Manufactures  and  Agricul- 
ture—Introduction of  Improved  Stock— First  Exhibition— Efforts  to  Promote 
Improvements — Letter  From  Elbridge  Gerry — Organization  of  Berkshire  Agri- 
cultural Society — Plan,  Operations,  and  History  of  it — Its  Influences  and  Effects 
—Description  of  a  Fair  by  a  Virginian— The  War  of  1812— Letters  from  Chan- 
cellor Livingston  and  Col.  Humphreys — Letters  from  John  Adams  on  that  subject 
and  Agriculture.— 364-381, 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

Gen.  Hull — Letters  from  him — Letter  from  Robert  Fulton—  Patriotic  Extract 
— Jewish  Phylactery — Letter  to  Dr.  Williamson — Return  to  Albany — Testimo- 
nials of  Respect— Tariff  Policy— Destiny  of  New-England— Address  before  Berk- 
shire Society — Agricultural  Labors  in  New- York — Otsego  County  Agricultural 
Society — Gov.  Clinton — Report  on  Agriculture— Correspondence— Organization  of 
County  Societies — Foreign  Circular — Introduction  of  Seeds — Letters  from 
Richard  Peters— Correspondence  with  Hartford  County  Society.— 382-403. 


XVI  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XXX. 


Agricultural  Law — National  Board  of  Agriculture — Correspondence  with 
Thomas  Jefferson — Letter  from  James  Madison — Letter  from  Dr.  Mitchell — Pat_ 
tern  Farm — Tour  to  Detroit — Canal  Boat — Incident — Syracuse — Progresi  of 
Improvement — Auburn — Cayuga  Agricultural  Society — Letter  from  Col.  Myn- 
derse — Geneva — Canandaigua — Batavia — Causeway — Holland  Purchase — Penn- 
sylvania Wagons — Buffalo  Harbor — Black  Rock — Gen.  Porter — Steamboat — 
Niagara—Ferry— Battle  of  Chippewa — Rapid  Falls — Battle  of  Bridgewater — Gen. 
Riall— Anecdote— Fort  Erie— Attack.— 404-419, 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 

Voyage  up  Lake  Erie — Discomforts — Land  at  Erie — Harbor — Perry's  Fleet — 
Hulks — His  Victory — Influence  and  Nature  of  it — Anecdote  of  Ship  Lawrence — 
Constitution  and  Java — Gen.  Hyslop's  Testimony — Plan  for  Improving  the  Har- 
bor— Old  French  Fort — Gen.  Wayne — Grand  River — Cleveland — Harbor— Storm 
— Archipelago  of  the  West — Put-In  Bay — Detroit  River — Detroit — Fourth  of 
July — View  of  Lake  Erie — Anticipated  Progress — Description  of  Detroit — River 
and  Island — Wretched  Agriculture — Face  of  the  Country — Explorations — Wolves 
— Old  Orchards — Indians — Disgusting  Scenes — Hull's  Surrender — Return  Voy 
aore — Reflections  and  Anticipations  on  Michigan. — 420-431. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

Correspondence  with  Mr.  Adams — Letters  from  him — Letter  from  John  Q. 
Adams — Tour  into  Canada — St.  John's — La  Prairie — St.  Lawrence — Montreal — 
La  Chine  Canal — Account  of  Works — Prospect  and  Effect  of  Canadian  Canals — ■ 
American  Tourists — Speculative  View  of  the  Future. — 432-442. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Removal  to  Port  Kent — Aids  Public  Improvements — Crooked  Lake  Canal — 
Letter  of  Gen.  McClure — Letter  of  W.  W.  McKay — Conception  of  the  Crooked 
Lake  Canal — Retirement — Project  of  Connecting  Boston  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
— Rail  Road — Convention  at  Montpelier — Speech — Comments  of  the  Press — 
/  Labors — Au  Sable  Valley  Rail  Road — Temperance  Reform — Address— Cholera — 
Last  Visit  to  Berkshire — Address  to  the  Society — Testimonials  of  Respect — 
Theory  of  Future  Population — Mr.  Clay — Gov.  Seward  and  Mr.  Van  Buren — 
— Incident — Tribute  to  Henry  Coleman — Letter  from  him — Sickness— Ruling 
Passion— Reflections— Death— Epitaph. — 443-460. 


MEN   AND   TIMES 


OF 


THE   EEYOLUTION. 


CHAPTER    I. 


Birth — Gens.  Scammel  and  Wadsworth — Premonitions  of  the  Revolu- 
tion— Military  Companies — Lexington — Carry  Supplies  to  the  Army 
— Military  Tyro — Seizure  of  John  Brown — Schooner  Gaspee — First 
Cruise  against  British  Flag — Inoculation — Magic  Egg — Retort  on 
the  Tories — Service — Prospect  of  Colonies. 

I  WAS  born  on  the  22(1  day  of  January,  1758,  in  Plymouth, 
Mass.,  within  rifle-shot  of  that  consecrated  rock,  where,  in 
New-England,  the  first  European  foot  was  pressed.  Among 
the  pious  and  devoted  pilgrims  of  the  May-Flower,  Edward 
Winslow,  the  third  governor  of  the  infant  colony,  was  an 
energetic  and  conspicuous  leader.  From  him  I  am  descended 
in  the  sixth  generation  on  my  mother's  side.  Born  and  nur- 
tured among  the  descendants  of  the  Puritans,  I  was  early  im- 
bued with  tlieir  high  sentiments  of  religious  and  political  lib- 
erty. My  father  and  all  my  relatives,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
were  zealous  and  active  Whigs,  aiding  with  their  hands  and 
purses  the  glorious  struggle  for  Independence.  I  remained  at 
the  ordinary  common-school  until  the  age  of  fourteen.  This 
school  was  kept  by  Alexander  Scammel  and  Peleg  Wadsworth, 

2 


y 


18  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EE VOLUTION  ; 

both  afterwards  distinguished  officers  in  the  revolutionary 
\  army.  In  common  with  the  other  patriotic  spirits  of  the  age, 
they  evidently  saw  the  approach  of  the  coming  tempest.  I 
>^^^^\x  remember  them  as  early  as  1771,  intently  studying  military 
-^^  tactics,  and  have  often  seen  them  engaged  in  a  garden  adjoin- 
ing my  father's,  drilling  each  other.  They  formed  the  boys 
into  a  military  company,  and  our  school  soon  had  the  air  of  a 
miniature  arsenal,  with  our  wooden  guns  and  tin  bayonets  sus- 
pended around  the  walls.  At  twelve  o'clock,  the  word  was 
given,  "  to  arms,"  and  each  boy  seized  his  gun  ;  then,  led  by 
either  Scammel  or  Wadsworth,  we  were  taught  military  evo- 
lutions, and  marched  over  hills,  through  swamps,  often  in  the 
rain,  in  the  performance  of  these  embryo  military  duties.  A 
sad  and  impressive  commentary  upon  the  effect  of  these  early 
influences,  is  affi^rded  by  the  fact  that  half  this  company  per- 
ished in  the  conflicts  of  the  Revolution.  Scammel  was  tall  in 
person,  exceeding  six  feet,  slender  and  active.  He  was  kind 
and  benevolent  in  his  feelings,  and  deeply  beloved  by  his  pupils. 
He  was  eminently  distinguished  during  the  Revolution  for  his 
conduct  and  bravery.  In  1777,  he  was  very  conspicuous  at 
the  battle  of  Saratoga,  leading  his  regiment  of  the  New-Hamp- 
shire troops,  in  a  desperate  charge  upon  Burgoyne's  lines.  At 
the  siege  of  Yorktown,  he  held  the  important  station  of  Adju- 
tant-General to  Washington's  army,  and  there  fell  in  a  recon- 
noisance  upon  the  British  works. 

In  the  month  of  September,  1773,  at  the  age  of  fifteen,  I  left  my 

native  place,  and  proceeded  to  Providence,  Rhode  Island,  to 

^-^^^      engage  in  my  apprenticeship  with  John  Brown,  the  founder  of 

Brown  University,  and  then  one  of  the  most  extensive  and 

energetic  merchants  of  ximerica. 

In  the  December  of  that  year,  the  tea  was  destoyed  at  Bos- 
ton, and  our  disputes  with  the  mother  country  began  to  assume 
a  serious  aspect.  The  public  mind  was  gradually  ripening  to 
the  fearful  appeal  to  arms.  During  the  summer  of  this  year 
the  youth  of  Providence  formed  themselves  into  military  asso- 
ciations. We  often  met  to  drill,  were  well  equipped,  and  in 
uniform   dresses.     I  enrolled  myself  in   the   cadet  company 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  19 

commanded  by  Col.  Nightingale,  consisting  of  seventy- 
five  youths,  the  flower  of  Providence.  The  uniform  of  this 
company  was  scarlet  coats,  faced  with  yellow.  These  com- 
panies, five  in  number,  were  reviewed  by  the  distinguished 
Gen.  Lee,  in   the  autumn  of  1774,  and  received  from  him  the 

highest  encomiums.     In  a  letter  to  the  Duke  of ,  October 

29th,  1774,  after  speaking  of  the  preparations  in  progress  in 
the  different  colonies  to  resist  oppression,  he  adds,  "I  was 
present  at  a  review  of  some  of  their  companies  in  Providence, 
R.  I.     I  really  never  saw  anything  more  perfect." 

The  storm  now  thickened  in  our  political  horizon — some 
acts  of  hostihty  had  already  been  committed  near  Salem.  The 
whole  country  was  agitated  as  if  passing  over  a  threatening 
volcano.  Liberty  companies  in  every  community  were  or- 
ganizing. The  intelligence  of  the  march  upon  Lexington 
reached  Providence  in  the  afternoon  of  the  19th  of  April,  1775. 
Our  five  companies  flew  to  arms.  The  whole  population  was 
convulsed  by  the  most  vehement  excitement.  AYe  were  un- 
provided w^ith  cartridges,  and  were  compelled  to  defer  our 
march  until  morning.  I  spent  the  most  of  that  agitated  night 
with  many  of  our  company,  in  running  bullets  and  preparing 
ammunition.  We  mustered  early  the  next  morning,  and  march- 
ed for  the  scene  of  action.  The  royal  governor,  Wanton, 
issued  a  proclamation,  which  was  little  regarded,  interdicting 
our  passing  the  colony  fine,  under  the  penalty  of  open  rebel- 
lion. Capt.  Green,  afterwards  the  celebrated  Gen.  Green, 
with  his  company  of  Warwick  Greens,  and  Capt.  Varnam, 
afterwards  a  revolutionary  general,  with  his  company  of 
Greenwich  Volunteers,  marched  with  us  at  the  same  time 
towards  Lexington. 

We  had  advanced  six  miles  amid  the  cries  and  tears  of 
w^omen,  every  road  we  passed  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  dust 
from  the  march  of  armed  men,  hastening  onward,  when  an 
express  met  us,  with  the  information  that  the  regulars  had 
been  driven  back  into  Boston. 

These  exhilarating,  though  tragic  scenes,  began  to  unsettle 
my  mind,  and  incapacitate  it  for  the  dull  drudgery  of  a  store. 


20  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

Many  of  my  acquaintances  had  determined  to  enter  the  army  ; 
anxious  to  pursue  the  same  course,  I  appHed  to  my  father  and 
Mr.  Brown,  but  in  vain,  to  be  released  from  my  indentures. 

On  the  3d  of  July,  1775,  Gen.  Washington  assumed  the 
command  of  the  forces  then  besieging  Boston.  He  found  an 
army  animated  with  zeal  and  patriotism,  but  nearly  destitute 
of  every  munition  of  war,  and  of  powder  in  particular.  Mr. 
Brown,  anticipating  the  war,  had  instructed  the  captains  of  his 
vessels  to  freight  on  their  return  voyages  with  that  article. 
At  this  crisis,  when  the  army  before  Boston  had  not  four  rounds 
to  a  man,  most  fortunately  one  of  Mr.  Brown's  ships  brought 
in  one-and-a-half  tons  of  powder.  It  was  immediately  forward- 
ed, under  my  charge,  to  head-quarters  at  Cambridge.  I  took 
with  me  six  or  eight  recruits  to  guard  it.  I  delivered  my  let- 
ter to  Gen.  Washington  in  person,  and  was  deeply  impressed 
with  an  awe  I  cannot  describe  in  contemplating  that  great 
man,  his  august  person,  his  majestic  mien,' his  dignified  and 
commanding  deportment,  more  conspicuous  perhaps  at  that 
moment  from  the  fact  that  he  was  in  the  act  of  admonishing  a 
militia  colonel  with  some  animation.  He  directed  a  young 
otBcer  to  accompany  me  and  superintend  the  delivery  of  the 
powder  at  Mystic,  two  miles  distant.  Whilst  delivering  it  at 
the  powder-house,  I  observed  to  the  officer,  "  Sir,  I  am  happy 
to  see  so  many  barrels  of  powder  here."  He  whispered  a 
secret  in  my  ear,  vnth  an  indiscretion  that  marked  the  novice 
in  military  affairs.  "  These  barrels  are  filled  with  sand." 
"And  wherefore?"  I  inquired.  "To  deceive  the  enemy,"  he 
replied,  "  should  any  spy  by  chance  look  in."  Such  was 
the  wretched  appointment  of  that  army  upon  which  rested  the 
hopes  of  American  liberty. 

Soon  after  this  occurrence,  Mr.  Brown,  having  .contracted 
to  supply  the  army  of  Washington  with  fiour,  sailed  for  Pro- 
vidence with  a  cargo  from  Newport.  The  British  not  having 
seized  any  American  vessels,  he  apprehended  no  danger, 
although  Commodore  Wailis,  with  tw^o  twenty-gun  ships,  lay  in 
the  harbor.  His  vessel  was,  however,  seized,  and  himself  sent 
a  prisoner  to  Boston  in  irons,  charged  with  heading  a  party  in 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  21 

1772,  disguised  as  Indians,  which  burnt  his  Majesty's  schooner 
Gaspee  in  Providence  river.  The  charge  was  true,  although 
the  British  government  could  never  obtain  any  evidence  of  the 
fact.  That  bold  and  successful  enterprise  was  one  of  the 
prominent  events  which  accelerated  the  impending  revolu- 
tion.* 

Mr.  Brown  had  occupied  a  father's  place  to  me  :  1  ftlt 
grateful,  and  in  common  with  the  whole  community,  indignant 
and  exasperated  at  his  seizure.  A  consultation  was  imme- 
diately held,  and  it  was  decided  to  send  an  express  to  Plymouth, 

*  The  following  narrative  of  that  occurrence  was  written  by  Colonel  Ephraim 
Bowen,  a  prominent  and  highly  respectable  citizen  of  Providence,  Rhode 
Island,  who  was  a  youthful  actor  in  the  scene,  and  a  member  of  our  cadet 
company.  It  is  due  to  history,  and  the  memory  of  the  daring  spirits  who 
accomplished  the  deed,  that  a  narrative  of  it  so  authentic  and  reliable,  should 
be  perpetuated.  "  In  the  year  1772,  the  British  government  had  stationed 
at  Newport,  Rhode  Island,  a  sloop-of-war,  with  her  tender,  the  schooner 
called  the  Gaspee,  of  eight  guns,  commanded  by  William  Duddingston,  a  lieu- 
tenant in  the  British  Navy,  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  the  clandestine  landing 
of  articles  subject  to  the  payment  of  duty.  The  captain  of  this  schooner  made 
it  his  practice  to  stop  and  board  all  vessels  entering  or  leaving  the  ports  of 
Rhode  Island,  or  leaving  Newport  for  Providence. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  1772,  Captain  Thomas  Lindsey  left  Newport,  in  his 
packet,  for  Providence,  about  noon,  with  the  wind  at  north,  and  soon  after  the 
Gaspee  was  under  sail,  in  pursuit  of  Lindsey,  and  continued  the  chase  as  far  as 
Namcut  Point.  Lindsey  was  standing  easterly,  with  the  tide  on  ebb,  about  two 
hours,  when  he  hove  about  at  the  end  of  Namcut  Point,  and  stood  to  the  west- 
ward ;  and  Duddingston  in  close  chase,  changed  his  course  and  ran  on  the  point 
near  its  end  and  grounded.  Lindsey  continued  in  his  course  up  the  river,  and 
arrived  at  Providence  about  sunset,  when  he  immediately  informed  Mr.  John 
Brown,  one  of  our  first  and  most  respectable  merchants,  of  the  situation  of  the 
Gaspee.  Mr.  Brown  immediately  resolved  on  her  destruction,  and  he  forthwith 
directed  one  of  his  trusty  shipmasters  to  collect  eight  of  the  largest  long  boats  in 
the  harbor,  with  five  oars  to  each,  to  have  the  oar  locks  well  muftled  to  prevent 
noise,  and  to  place  them  at  Fenner's  wharf,  directly  opposite  to  the  dwelling  of 
Mr.  James  Sabin.  Soon  after  sunset,  a  man  passed  along  the  main  street,  beat- 
ing a  drum,  and  informing  the  inhabitants  that  the  Gaspee  was  aground  on  Nam- 
cut Point,  and  inviting  those  persons  who  felt  a  disposition  to  go  and  destroy 
that  troublesome  vessel,  to  repair  in  the  evening  to  Mr.  James  Sabin's  house. 
About  nine  o'clock  I  took  my  father's  gun,  and  my  powder-horn  and  bullets,  and 
went  to  Mr.  Sabin's,  and  found  it  full  of  people,  where  I  loaded  my  gun,  and  all 
remained  there  till  ten  o'clock,  some  casting  bullets  in  the  kitchen,  and  others 
making  arrangements  for  departure,  when  orders  were  given  to  cross  the  street 
to  Fenner's  wharf  and  embark,  which  soon  took  place,  and  a  sea-captain  acted 


22  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

in  order  to  fit  out  two  armed  schooners  to  intercept,  if  possible, 
the  captured  flour-vessel,  in  her  circuitous  passage  around 
Cape  Cod,  and  release  Mr.  Brown.  In  the  service  of  Mr. 
Brown,  and  a  native  of  Plymouth,  I  was  entrusted  with  the  im- 
portant mission.  With  my  musket  at  my  back,  I  mounted  a 
fleet  horse,  and  arrived  in  Plymouth  by  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  alarmed  the  town  by  the  cry  of  fire,  and  roused  up 
the  Committee  of  Safety.  At  sunrise  I  was  awakened  by  the 
beat  of  the  drum  to  muster  volunteers  for  the  enterprise,  and 
without  hesitation  fell  into  the  ranks.  By  two  o'clock  the  same 

as  steersman  of  each  boat,  of  whom  I  recollect  Captain  Abraham  Whipple,  Cap- 
tain John  B.  Hopkins,  (with  whom  I  embarked)  and  Captain  Benjamin  Dunn.  A 
line  from  right  to  left  was  soon  formed,  with  Captain  Whipple  on  the  right,  and 
Captain  Hopkins  on  the  right  of  the  left  wing.  The  party  thus  proceeded  till 
within  about  sixty  yards  of  the  Gaspee,  when  a  sentinel  hailed,  "  Who  comes 
there  1"  No  answer.  He  hailed  again,  and  no  answer.  In  about  a  minute 
Duddingston  mounted  the  starboard  gunwale,  in  his  shirt,  and  hailed,  "  Who 
comes  there  V  No  answer.  He  hailed  again,  when  Captain  Whipple  answered 
as  follows  :  "  I  am  the  Sheriff  of  the  County  of  Kent ;  I  have  got  a  warrant  to 
apprehend  you  ;   so  surrender,  d — n  you.'' 

I  took  my  seat  on  the  thwart,  near  the  larboard  row-lock,  with  my  gun  by  my 
right  side,  and  facing  forward.  As  soon  as  Duddingston  began  to  hail,  Joseph 
Bucklin,  who  was  standing  on  the  main  thwart  by  my  right  side,  said  to  me, 
"  Ephe,  reach  me  your  gun,  and  I  can  kill  that  fellow."  I  reached  it  to  him  ac- 
cordingly, when,  during  Captain  Whipple's  replying,  Bucklin  fired,  and  Dud- 
dingston fell ;  and  Bucklin  exclaimed,  "I  have  killed  the  rascal!"  In  less  time 
than  a  minute  after  Captain  Whipple's  answer,  the  boats  were  alongside  the 
Gaspee,  and  boarded  without  opposition.  The  men  on  deck  retreated  below  as 
Duddingston  entered  the  cabin. 

As  it  was  discovered  that  he  was  wounded,  John  Mawney,  who  had,  for  two  or 
three  years,  been  studying  medicine  and  surgery,  was  ordered  to  go  into  the 
cabin  and  dress  Duddingston's  wound,  and  I  was  directed  to  assist  him.  On  ex- 
amination it  was  found  the  ball  took  effect  directly  below  the  navel.  Dudding- 
ston called  for  Mr.  Dickinson  to  produce  bandages  and  other  necessaries  for  the 
dressing  of  the  wound,  and,  when  finished,  orders  were  given  to  the  schooner's 
company  to  collect  their  clothing  and  everything  belonging  to  them,  and  to  put 
them  into  the  boats,  as  all  of  them  were  to  be  sent  on  shore.  All  were  soon  col- 
lected and  put  on  board  of  the  boats,  including  one  of  our  boats. 

They  departed  and  landed  Duddingston  at  the  old  still-house  wharf  at  Pau- 
tuxet,  and  put  the  chief  into  the  house  of  Joseph  Rhodes.  Soon  after,  all  the 
party  were  ordered  to  depart,  leaving  one  boat  for  the  leaders  of  the  expedition, 
who  soon  set  the  vessel  on  fire,  which  consumed  her  to  the  water's  edge. 

The  names  of  the  most   conspicuous  actors  are  as  follows,  viz  : — Mr.   John 


28 


afternoon,  we  embarked  on  board  of  two  dilapidated  fish- 
ing schooners,  equipped  with  two  old  cannon  each,  with 
powder  loose  in  barrels,  and  between  thirty  and  forty  men  to 
a  vessel,  black  and  white,  all  officers  and  all  men.  Thus 
equipped,  we  plunged  into  the  ocean,  reckless  of  every  conse- 
quence, determined  to  rescue  Mr.  Brown.  We  had  no  com- 
mission, and  had  we  been  captured,  would,  in  all  probability, 
been  hung  as  pirates,  with  little  formality.  We  cruised  ten 
days  east  of  Cape  Cod,  without  success,  and  being  pursued  by 
a  twenty-gun  ship,  escaped  into  the  harbor  of  Plymouth.  Thus 
it  fell  to  my  singular  destiny,  to  sail  from  the  place  of  my  na- 
tivity, at  the  age  of  seventeen,  in  probably  the  first  American 
vessel  that  opposed  the  British  flag.  We  embarked,  on  this 
occasion,  within  a  few  rods  of  the  rock  upon  which,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty-five  years  before,  the  Pilgrims  had  landed,  in  the 
assertion  of  that  liberty  of  which  they  implanted  the  earliest 
seeds,  and  which  was  now  endangered  in  the  hands  of  their  de- 
scendants. 

Mr.  Brown  was  carried  into  Boston,  and  soon  after  released 
by  the  interposition  of  his  brother  Moses  Brown,  a  conspicuous 
and  influential  quaker,  and  truly  a  great  man. 

In  the  month  of  December  following.  Gen.  Lee  arrived  at 
Providence,  under  orders  to  inspect  the  position  at  Newport 
harbor,  then  in  possession  of  the  British.  He  solicited  and  re- 
ceived an  escort  of  our  company.  We  embarked  on  board  of 
two  vessels,  and  landed  on  the  north  end  of  the  island.  On 
the  ensuing  day,  we  marched  and  counter-marched  through 
the  streets  of  Newport,  without  annoyance,  although  the  Brit- 
ish fleet  were  moored  in  the  harbor  in  full  view.  Thus  unde- 
fined and  equivocal  was  our  posture  towards  England  at  that 
period. 

Soon  after  I  was  inoculated  for  the  small-pox,  in  corn- 
Brown.  Captain  Abraham  Whipple,  John  B.  Hopkins,  Benjamin  Dunn, 
and  five  others  whose  names  I  have  forgotten,  and  John  Mawney,  Benjamin 
Page,  Joseph  BuckUn,  and  Toupin  Smith,  my  youthful  companions,  all  of  whom 
are  dead — I  believe  every  man  of  the  party,  excepting  myself;  and  my  age  is 
ighty-six  years  this  twenty-ninth  day  of  August,  eighteen  hundred  and  thirty- 
nine. 


24  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   KEVOLUTION  ; 

pany  with  one  hundred  and  one  persons,  and  confined  in  a  large 
barrack,  in  a  secluded  position.  The  weather  was  intensely 
cold,  and  although  reduced  to  almost  starvation  by  our  severe 
regimen,  we  were  not  permitted  to  approach  the  only  fire- 
place the  barrack  contained.  Our  sufferings  were  severe,  in 
passing  through  this  then  established  process  of  inoculation. 

About  the  time  we  left  the  hospital.  Major  Thomas,  of  the 
army,  arrived  at  Plymouth,  from  head-quarters.  He  had  left 
Washington  retreating  through  New-Jersey.  I  spent  the 
evening  with  him,  in  company  with  many  devoted  "Whigs. 
We  looked  upon  the  contest  as  near  its  close,  and  considered 
ourselves  a  vanquished  people.  The  young  men  present  de- 
termined to  emigrate,  and  seek  some  spot  where  liberty  dwelt, 
and  where  the  arm  of  British  tyranny  could  not  reach  us. 
Major  Thomas  animated  our  desponding  spirits  by  the  assu- 
rance that  Washington  was  not  dismayed,  but  evinced  the 
same  serenity  and  confidence  as  ever.  Upon  him  rested  all 
our  hopes. 

On  the  ensuing  Sunday  morning,  as  the  people  were  on 
their  way  to  church,  I  suddenl}^  witnessed  a  great  com- 
motion in  the   street,  and  a  general  rush  to   the  back  door 

of  Mrs.  H 's  dwelHng.     Supposing  the  house  to  be  on  fire, 

I  darted  into  the  crowd,  and  on  entering  the  house,  heard  the 
good  w^oman's  voice  above  the  rest,  exclaiming,  with  an  egg 
in  her  hand — "  There,  there,  see  for  yourselves."  I  seized  the 
magic  egg,  and  to  my  utter  astonishment  read  upon  it,  in  legi- 
ble characters  formed  by  the  shell  itself,  "  Oh,  America,  Ameri- 
ca, Howe  shall  be  thy  conqueror  /''  The  agitation  and  de- 
spondency produced,  will  hardly  b^  appreciated  by  those  unac- 
quainted with  the  deep  excitability  of  the  public  mind  at  that 
period.  We  were  soon  relieved  from  our  gloom  and  appre- 
hension, by  ascertaining  from  an  ingenious  painter,  who  hap- 
pily came  in,  that  the  supernatural  intimation  was  the  effect  of 
a  simple  chemical  process.  We  were  convinced  it  was  a  de- 
vice of  some  Tory  to  operate  on  the  public  feeling.  In  the 
afternoon,  an  express  arrived  from  Boston ;  a  hand-bill  was 
sent  into  the  pulpit,  and  at  the  close  of  the  service  our  venera- 


25 


ble  Whig  Parson  Robins,  read  from  his  desk  the  heart-thrilling 
news  of  the  capture  of  the  Hessians  at  Trenton— a  happy  re- 
tort upon  the  Tories. 

In  the  following  February,  a  British  army  then  being  in  the 
occupation  of  Rhode  Island,  our  company  was  detached  on 
duty  to  Pawtucket.  The  standing  sentinel  in  the  severity  of 
winter  weather,  and  the  performance  of  other  actual  military 
duties,  were  severe  trials  to  our  patriotism. 

In  the  early  part  of  1777,  great  preparations  were  made  in 
the  Northern  States  to  close  the  struggle  with  Great  Britain, 
by  an  energetic  and  united  effort,  in  the  campaign  of  that 
year.  I  was  deeply  anxious  to  unite  with  many  of  my  asso- 
ciates, w^ho  were  again  embarking  in  the  cause  of  liberty,  and 
renewed  in  the  most  earnest  spirit  my  solicitations  to  join  the 
army ;  but  my  father  interdicted  the  measure,  and  my  inden- 
tures held  me  enchained.  i 

The  commerce  of  Providence  was  at  this  time  prostrated, — 
all  business  in  a  measure  paralyzed.  I  was  languishing,  com- 
paratively, without  employment  for  my  hands,  or  occupation 
to  my  mind,  when  in  the  latter  part  of  August,  I  w^as  aroused 
from  my  lethargy  by  an  unexpected  proposition  from  Mr. 
Brown  and  his  brother  Nicholas,  for  me  to  proceed  to  South 
Carolina  and  Georgia,  in  trust  of  a  large  sum  of  money,  about 
850,000,  to  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  their  agents  in  the 
Southern  States,  to  be  invested  in  cargoes  for  the  European 
markets. 

The  responsibility  was  a  heavy  one,  and  appalling  to  an 
inexperienced  youth  of  nineteen.  It  was  in  the  crisis  of  the 
Revolution,  Burgoyne  bearihg  down  with  a  veteran  army 
upon  Albany,  Howe  approaching  Philadelphia  with  a  power- 
iul  armament,  the  royalists  in  every  section  of  the  Union  con- 
vulsing the  country,  and  the  negroes  in  some  of  the  Southern 
States  in  partial  insurrection.  All  these  circumstances  con- 
spired to  render  the  enterprise  hazardous,  and  difficult  to  be 
achieved. 

My  anxiety  for  change,  and  desire  of  seeing  the  world,  pre- 
ponderated ;  and  notwithstanding  these  obstacles,  I  embraced 


26        MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

the  proposition  with  avidity.  During  my  trying  and  pro- 
tracted journey,  I  was  most  assiduous  in  keeping  a  daily  jour- 
nal. It  became  quite  voluminous — containing  a  great  fund  of 
matter  of  interest  only  to  myself  and  my  immediate  friends, 
but  I  feel  assured  that  it  also  embraced  notices  of  incidents 
and  of  men,  as  well  as  statistical  facts,  which  will  tend  to 
illustrate  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people  at  that  period, 
and  shed  some  new  light  upon  the  events  and  characters  of 
the  Revolution.  That  portion  of  my  journal  having,  as  I 
imagine,  this  interest  to  the  general  reader,  I  have  very  con- 
siderably condensed. 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  27 


CHAPTER    II. 

Journey  to  South  Carolina — Connecticut  Suffering  Patriot — New-Jersey — 
Capt.  Hoogland — La  Fayette — Moravian  Brethren — Rope  Ferry — 
German  Population — Reading,  Penn,  Dunkers,  Lancaster — Enter  Vir- 
ginia— Slaves. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  1777, 1  left  Providence,  on  my  way 
to  South  Carolina.  With  a  good  horse  under  me,  a  hanger  at 
my  side,  and  a  pair  of  pistols  in  my  holster,  I  crossed  the 
great  bridge  at  Providence,  and  on  the  fourth  day  reached 
Fairfield,  Connecticut.  From  Providence  to  Windham  the 
country,  though  broken  and  hilly,  was  thickly  inhabited  by  a 
hardy  and  independent  race  of  farmers.  In  approaching  the 
Connecticut  River,  the  land  becomes  more  level,  and  the  soil 
good  and  well  tilled.  I  found  Hartford  a  respectable  and 
wealthy  place,  of  about  three  hundred  houses,  with  a  State  House 
and  other  public  edifices.  New  Haven  is  a  delightful  village,  con- 
taining about  four  hundred  dwellings.  Many  of  its  inhabitants 
are  wealthy.  The  place  has  owed  much  of  its  support  to  its  lite- 
rary institution,  Yale  College — its  commerce  having  been  very 
limited.  Whilst  at  Fairfield  I  was  not  a  little  agitated  by  a 
discharge  of  alarum  guns  in  the  dead  of  night.  A  marauding 
party  of  British  and  Tories  had  landed  near  the  village,  and 
the  inhabitants  were  aroused  to  repel  them. 

I  travelled  over  the  road  to  Danbury,  pursued  by  the  British 
the  spring  before,  in  their  successful  attempt  upon  the  public 
stores  collected  at  that  place.  Gen.  Wooster  was  here  killed, 
and  Arnold  on  this  occasion  evinced  his  usual  fearless  intre- 
pidity. He  had  a  horse  shot  under  him,  and  killed  with  his 
pistol  a  soldier  who  attempted  to  transfix  him  with  a  bayonet 
as  he  lay  entangled  beneath  his  dead  horse. 

On  approaching  Danbury,  I  noticed  a  venerable  old  man 
looking  intently  at  the  ruins  of  a  small  house,  which  had  re- 


28  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

cently  been  burnt.  His  appearance  excited  my  sympathy,  and  I 
inquired  the  cause  of  his  evident  distress.  He  replied,  that  he 
was  cast  upon  the  world,  at  the  age  of  seventy-eight,  without  a 
home  or  property.  "  There,"  continued  he,  pointing  at  the  ruins, 
"I  resided  with  my  aged  wife  for  fifty  years,  in  contentment  and 
comfort ;  our  little  all  was  in  that  dwelling  collected.  When 
the  British  approached,  although  warned  to  flee,  we  decided 
to  remain.  A  British  ofHcer  promised  us  protection,  and  con- 
tinued with  us  for  some  time.  When  he  left  it,  my  own  nephew^ 
entered  the  house,  fired  it,  and  dragged  me  away  a  prisoner.'' 
He  added,  that  he  was  carried  to  Long  Island,  and  had  just 
returned. 

From  Danbury  I  proceeded  to  Peekskill,  through  a  country 
infested  by  Tories  and  outlaws.  The  following  morning  after 
my  arrival  here,  Col.  Talbot  came  express,  bearing  the  des- 
ponding news  of  the  defeat  of  Washington  at  Brandywine. 
I  crossed  the  Hudson  at  King's  Ferry,  and  proceeded  to  Mor- 
ristown,  in  New-Jersey.  To  this  place  Gen.  Washington  re- 
tired after  his  glorious  exploits  at  Trenton  and  Princeton. 
The  country  is  principally  settled  by  the  Dutch  and  Germans. 

I  was  amused  and  impressed  (being  only  conversant  with 
the  customs  of  New-England)  with  the  manners  and  habits  I 
witnessed  among  this  people.  Their  table  customs  struck  me 
forcibly.  Instead  of  our  elaborate  grace  before  meat,  the  mas- 
ter of  the  house,  bare-headed,  holding  his  hat  before  his  face, 
remained  for  some  time  in  silence.  The  good  woman,  instead 
of  the  generous  New-England  supply  of  sugar,  placed  a  lump 
near  the  cup,  to  be  bitten  off  as  occasion  required.  The  farm- 
houses, generally  of  stone,  were  neat  and  well  built.  At  Mor- 
ristown  I  met  Capt.  Hoogland,  an  intimate  old  friend,  whom  I 
knew  at  Newport  in  1774.  He  had  been  taken  prisoner  at  the 
battle  of  Long  Island,  and  was  now  escorting  some  British 
officers  prisoners  to  New-England.* 

*  The  history  of  poor  Hoogland,  his  self-sacrificing,  devoted  patriotism,  and 
illy  requited  services,  had  many  a  parallel  in  the  lives  of  the  officers  of  the 
Revolution.  It  found  them  buoyant  in  hope,  rich  in  the  promises  of  youth,  or 
the  vigor  of  manhood — it  left  many  of  those  who  survived  maimed  in  person, 


OE,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  29 

I  associated  myself  at  Morristown  with  two  gentlemen  jour- 
neying towards  South  Carolina.  On  the  23d  of  September,  I 
resumed  my  journey  in  company  with  my  new"  companions, 
and  here  relinquished  my  saddle,  and  pursued  the  residue  of 
my  long  route  in  a  sulkey.  At  Princeton,  we  saw"  a  large  four- 
story  college,  which  had  been  occupied  by  the  British  on  the 
assault  of  Washington.  The  battle-ground  of  the  preceding 
winter  was  pointed  out  to  us.  At  Trenton  we  were  shown  the 
orchard  in  which  the  Hessians  laid  down  their  arms.  If  ever 
the  fate  of  a  nation  hung  upon  the  issue  of  an  hour,  it  was  on 
the  2d  of  January,  1777,  when  Washington  held  the  south, 
and  the  British  army  the  north  part  of  this  village,  separated 
only  by  a  narrow  creek. 

Trenton  contains  about  seventy  dwellings,  situated  principal- 
ly on  two  narrow  streets,  running  parallel. 

On  reaching  Burlington,  upon  the  Delaware,  hoping  to  es- 
cape the  British,  we  learned  to  our  inexpressible  chagrin,  that 
their  light  dragoons  had,  two  hours  before,  taken  possession  of 
Philadelphia.  This  event  compelled^  us  to  change  our  plans, 
and  take  a  circuitous  route,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
further,  by  way  of  Reading,  Lancaster,  York,  &c.  We  cross- 
ed the  Delaware  at  Cowles'  Ferry,  and  were  arrested  under 
suspicion  (which  resulted  from  my  minute  inquiries)  of  being 
British  spies.  In  the  morning  we  were  released.  We  passed 
over  a  wretched  new  country,  occupied  almost  exclusively  by 
the  German's  log  hut,  until  we  reached  the  Lehigh  river.  We 
forded  this  stream  with  extreme  difficulty  and  danger,  being  in 
one  place  compelled  to  swim  our  horses.  At  Bethlehem  we  re- 
broken  in  constitution,  and  inadequately  remunerated  by  their  country.  .  When 
I  first  knew  Hoogland  in  1774,  he  was  a  handsome,  facetious,  high-spirited 
youth  of  eighteen.  W^c  mingled  together  in  the  gaieties  of  the  beautiful  island, 
then  in  the  rich  enjoyment  of  plenty  and  repose.  Too  soon  it  became  the  theatre  of 
contending  armies.  Three  years  after  I  again  met  him,  a  sun-burnt  veteran, 
who  had  already  seen  much  hard  service.  In  1788,  fourteen  years  afterwards,  I 
again  saw  him,  a  merchant  in  Lansingburgh,  N.  Y.  He  was  then,  although 
young  in  years,  old  in  suffering.  He  appeared  like  an  old  man  hobbling  on 
crutches.  Thus  he  lingered  a  few  years  longer,  and  sank  into  a  premature 
grave,  a  martyr  in  the  cause  of  liberty.  Posterity  can  never  estimate  the  sacri- 
ces  and  sufferings  of  the  patriots  of  the  Revolution. 


30  MEN  AND  TIMES  OP  THE  REVOLUTION; 

mained  two  days,  enjoying  the  comforts  of  a  spacious  tavern. 
The  Marquis  de  La  Fayette,*  and  other  officers  wounded  at 
the  Brandywine  battle,  were  quartered  at  the  same  house. 
This  is  an  interesting  place,  fifty-four  miles  N.  W.  of  Philadel- 
phia, situated  on  a  declivity  facing  the  Lehigh.  It  contains  about 
fitty  stone  houses,  and  was  inhabited  by  a  religious  sect  of  Ger- 
mans, called  Moravians.  The  village  was  supplied  with  water, 
forced  up  the  hill,  in  logs,  from  the  river,  by  means  of  machi- 
nery. A  conspicuous  object  in  this  village  is  a  large  stone 
edifice,  occupying  a  romantic  situation  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  appropriated  to  the  education  of  young  females  of 
the  sect.  They  are  required  to  observe  a  strict  seclusion,  and 
are  only  permitted  to  leave  its  walls  in  the  exercise  of  some 
religious  duties  at  the  church,  and  on  formal  occasions.  We 
crossed  the  Lehigh  by  a  rope  ferry,  a  contrivance  new  to  me? 
and  which  combines  much  economy  with  a  saving  of  labor 
and  machinery.  A  strong  rope  is  attached  to  a  post  on  each 
side  of  the  river ;  along  the  rope  a  pulley  or  block  runs, 
through  which  passes  another  rope.  Each  end  of  the  latter 
rope  is  secured  to  the  head  and  stern  of  the  boat.  The  bow 
of  the  boat  being  directed  up  stream,  the  current  strikes  her 

*  He  had  just  been  brought  on  a  litter  from  the  battle-ground,  where  he  held  a 
distinguished  command,  and  acquitted  himself  with  high  applause.  I  saw  him  a 
few  years  subsequent,  on  board  of  a  frigate  at  Providence.  He  was  then  tall  and 
slender,  and  of  rather  light  complexion.  After  a  lapse  of  forty-seven  years,  I  again 
met  him,  the  day  after  his  landing  at  New- York,  August  3d,  1824.  It  was  with  the 
utmost  difficulty  I  could  realize  him  to  be  the  same  man  whom  I  had  seen  almost 
half  a  century  before  at  Bethlehem.  I  could  scarcely  discover  the  slightest  re- 
semblance. Age,  and  wounds,  and  care,  had  completely  metamorphosed  him,  in 
person  and  features.  The  last  time  I  met  him  was  in  June,  1825,  at  Burlington, 
Vt.  He  spent  the  evening  with  a  crowded  party,  at  the  house  of  Governor  Van 
Ness,  whence  we  conducted  him  at  midnight  to  the  steamboat.  The  wharf  was 
thronged  with  men,  women  and  children.  Three  steamboats  were  in  waiting  to 
join  the  escort,  all  brilliantly  illuminated,  with  many  a  proud  streamer  waving 
in  the  breeze.  He  departed  amid  the  pealing  of  cannon,  the  ringing  of  bells,  the 
clangor  of  music,  and  the  cheers  of  a  thousand  grateful  hearts.  The  night  was 
serene,  the  moon  shone  brightly ;  everything  above  and  below  seemed  to  give 
splendor  and  solemnity,  and  to  communicate  interest  to  the  thrilling  scene.  He, 
some  months  after,  embarked  for  France,  to  engage  in  new  scenes  of  glory,  of 
di«sinterested  patriotism,  and  blood. 


OR,   MEMOIES   OF  ELEANAH  WATSON.  81 

obliquely,  producing  a  strong  eddy  under  her  stern.  She  is 
thus  propelled  with  considerable  velocity,  the  moment  she  is 
unmoored.  We  found  the  country  but  partially  settled.  The 
prevailing  population  is  German.  I  first  noticed  here  the  Ger- 
man girls  at  work  in  the  fields,  a  custom  most  strange  and  re- 
pulsive to  the  eye  of  an  inhabitant  of  New-England. 

Reading  is  situated  near  the  Schuylkill  river,  in  a  well-culti- 
vated wheat-growing  district.  It  contained  about  four  hundred 
houses.  It  was  settled  by  Penn  in  1700.  His  and  his  successors' 
ground-rents  amounted  to  £500  sterling,  previous  to  the  Revo- 
lution, This  system  of  quit  rents,  retained  by  Penn,  prevailed 
extensively  in  the  State,  and  reached  to  oppression  in  many 
cases.  It  was  unceasingly  assailed  by  Franklin,  and  with  ulti- 
mate success.* 

At  Reamstown  I  was  placed  between  two  beds,  without 
sheets  or  pillows.  This,  as  1  was  told,  was  a  prevailing  Ger- 
man custom,  but  which,  as  far  as  my  experience  goes,  tends 
little  to  promote  either  the  sleep  or  comfort  of  a  stranger. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  we  entered  the  village  of 
Euphrates,  within  sound  of  the  thunder  of  Washington's  artil- 
lery at  Germantown.  This  village  is  inhabited  by  a  most  ec- 
centric and  remarkable  sect  of  fanatics.  They  call  themselves 
Bunkers.  They  own  a  large  tract  of  land  in  this  vicinity,  and 
founded  this  village  about  1724,  in  a  romantic  and  sequestered 
position,  well  adapted  to  their  professed  abstraction  from  the 
rest  of  the  human  family.  They  profess  to  believe  themselves 
unconnected  with  a  sinful  world,  and  that  they  move  among 
ethereal  spirits.  Their  community  numbered  about  one  hun- 
dred souls.  They  dressed  in  long  tunics  reaching  to  the  heels, 
girded  with  a  sash,  and  with  woollen  caps  falling  over  their 
shoulders.  They  baptize  by  immersion.  They  believe  in  a 
future  state,  and  that  salvation  is  attained  only  by  penance  and 

*  The  Patriots  of  Pennsylvania,  by  the  influence  of  the  Revolution,  were  en- 
abled,  I  believe,  to  expunge  this  relic  of  feudal  assumption  from  their  system. 
It  would  have  been  wise  if  other  States,  overburthened  by  enormous  manors, 
could  have  devised  some  equitable  scheme,  by  which  they  might  have  extirpated 
this  anti-republican  fungus.  [1821.] 


82  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION ; 

the  mortification  of  the  flesh.  They  never  shave.  The  sexes 
have  no  intercourse,  Hving  in  separate  habitations,  and  even 
occupying  different  places  of  pubhc  worship.  They  sleep  in 
apartments  of  only  sufficient  size  to  hold  them,  occupied  by  a 
wooden  bench,  a  little  inchning,  on  which  they  sleep.  In  the 
place  of  pillows  they  rest  the  head  on  wooden  blocks,  so  pre- 
pared as  to  receive  it  up  to  the  ears.  They  carry  on  quite  im- 
portant manufactures,  and  amuse  themselves  in  rudely  painting 
scripture  scenes,  which  are  suspended  in  their  chapel.  They 
subsist  exclusively  on  vegetables  and  roots,  except  at  their  oc- 
casional love-feasts.  Rumor,  with  her  thousand  tongues,  is,  of 
course,  not  sparing  of  their  reputation.  As  we  were  taking  our 
departure,  we  heard  the  brethren  chanting  their  melodious 
hymns  in  plaintive  notes  that  thrilled  our  souls. 

Lancaster  was,  at  this  period,  the  largest  inland  town  in  Ame- 
rica, containing  about  one  thousand  houses,  and  6,000  inhabi- 
tants, with  a  State  house  and  five  edifices  for  public  worship. 
Many  of  the  houses  were  large,  and  built  with  brick.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  one  of  the  most  lovely  and  luxuriant  regions  in  the 
country,  delightfully  diversified  with  waving  hills,  pleasant  dales, 
adorned  by  lovely  scenery,  and  highly  cultivated  farms — in  a 
word,  all  that  can  invite  to  a  pastoral  life.  Here  existed  exten- 
sive manufactures,  especially  of  the  rifles  so  fatal  in  the  hands 
of  our  patriotic  yeomanry. 

At  York  the  Congress  was  at  that  time  assembled  after 
its  dispersion  from  Philadelphia.  Protected  by  Washing- 
ton, whose  forces  interposed  between  them  and  the  British 
army,  they  held  daily  secret  sessions.  Here  we  procured  pass- 
ports for  our  Southern  journey.  We  entered  Maryland  on  the 
5th  of  October,  and  passed  through  Hanover  and  Fredericks- 
town  into  Virginia,  over  the  Potomac  at  Newland's  ferry. 
We  found  the  country,  through  a  wilderness  region,  infested  by 
a  semi-barbarian  population.  We  liberated  an  unfortunate 
traveller  assailed  by  one  of  these  wretches,  who,  in  his  techni- 
cal language,  swore  he  "would  try  the  strength  of  his  eye-ball 
strings."  Soon  after  entering  Virginia,  and  at  a  highly  re- 
spectable house,  I  was  shocked,  beyond  the  power  of  language 


88 


to  express,  at  seeing,  for  the  first  time,  young  negroes  of  both 
sexes,  from  twelve  even  to  fifteen  years  old,  not  only  running 
about  the  house,  but  absolutely  tending  table,  as  naked  as  they 
came  into  the  world,  not  having  even  the  poor  apology  of  a  fig 
leaf  to  save  modesty  a  blush.  What  made  the  scene  more  extra- 
ordinary still,  to  my  unpractised  eye,  was  the  fact  that  several 
young  women  were  at  table,  who  appeared  totally  unmoved  at 
the  scandalous  violation  of  decency.  I  find  custom  will  recon- 
cile us  to  almost  everything. 


84  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 


CHAPTER    HI. 

Night  Travelling— An  Incident  —  Fredericksburgh  —  Williamsburgh— 
Jamestown  —  James  River  —  Suffolk  —  Arrest  —  Dismal  Swamp— 
Edenton— Hugh  Williamson— Hutchinson  Letters— Scenery— Pam- 
lico Sound— Deer-Wild  Turkeys— Turpentine  Making— River  Neuse 
— Newbern — A  Night  Bivouac  —  Wilmington — Deer  Hunting  — 
Opossum — The  Ocean — Gren.  Mcintosh — Capture  of  Burgoyne — South- 
ern Hospitality — Runaway  Negroes — Wingan  Bay — Georgetown 
— Charleston. 

Proceeding  on  our  journey  from  Leesburgh,  night  overtook 
us  in  the  midst  of  a  wild  and  secluded  region.     A  wretched 
ordinary,  filled  with  a  throng  of  suspicious  characters,  afforded 
us  the  only  refuge  ;  but  as  the  moon  was  just  rising,  we  chose 
to  press  forward  through  the  woods,  rather  than  to  encounter 
its  hospitalities.     We  travelled  thus  until  a  late  hour  in  the 
night,  amid  stately  forests  of  tall,  venerable  pines,  our  three 
carriages  in  a  line,  and  man  Tom,  our  servant,  in  advance. 
Suddenly  Tom  came  galloping  back  in  a  terrible  fright.  "  What 
is  the  matter,  Tom  ?"  we  cried.     "  Oh  massa,  T  see  the  d — 1 
just  this  minute  flying  in  dem  woods !"      Mr.  Scott  being 
ahead,  stopped,  and  exclaimed,  "  What  can  it  be !  Don't  you 
see  it  moving  in  the  air  among  those  trees  ?"     We  distinctly 
saw  the  object  of  Tom's  terror.     "  Well !"  says  Scott,  "  let  it 
be  the  d — 1,  or  a  d — nd  tory,  or  what,  I'll  find  out !"     He  dis- 
mounted, pistol  in  hand,  and  dashed  into  the  wood,  calling 
upon  Tom  to  follow.     They  had  not  proceeded  far,  when  Tom 
whirled  about,  and  was  in  full  career  towards  us,  applying  whip 
and  spur  at  a  merciless  rate,  his  hat  off,  and  his  naked  head  in 
a  line  with  the  horses'  mane.     Mr.  Scott  pressed  forward  with 
due  caution  towards  the  terrific  object,  which  still  seemed  to 
float  in  the  air.     We  were  all  impatience  and  anxiety  for  the 
fate  of  our  gallant  companion.     In  a  moment  more  he  made 
the  old  forest  ring  with  his  powerful  voice.     "  I  have  got  the 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  35 

d — 1,  or  some  dead  tory  fast  by  the  leg ;  a  man  in  gibbets  !" 
After  this  absurd  scene,  we  advanced  five  miles  fm'ther  through 
the  woods  to  a  small  tavern,  where  we  found  rest  and  comfort. 
Here  we  learned  that  the  cause  of  our  alarm  was  a  negro  hung 
in  chains,  for  the  murder  of  his  master. 

As  we  approached  Fredericksburgh,  we  passed  many  ele- 
gant plantations,  whose  owners  appeared  to  enjoy  the  splendor 
and  affluence  of  nabobs.  My  New-England  feelings  were 
constantly  aroused  and  agitated  by  tbe  aspect  of  slavery  in 
this  land  of  freedom.  About  two  miles  from  the  town,  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Rappahannock,  we  examined  the  extensive 
factory  beloDging  to  Colonel  Hunter,  for  the  manufacture  of 
small  arms,  bar  iron,  steel,  files,  &c.  Fredericksburgh  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Rappahannock,  and  contains  about  eight  hundred  in- 
habitants. The  river  is  navigable  to  the  falls — a  mile  above  the 
town.  These  falls  are  eminently  beautiful  and  romantic — a  series 
of  several  cascades  following  each  other  in  rapid  succession. 
From  an  eminence  near  this  village  the  Blue  Ridge  is  dis- 
tinctly visible.  At  this  place  the  mother  of  our  Washington 
resides,  and  was  pointed  out  to  me.  She  is  a  majestic  and 
venerable  woman. 

On  the  nth.  of  October  we  reached  Williamsburgh.  Here, 
I  separated  from  my  travelling  companions.  This  city  con- 
tains three  hundred  and  twenty  dwelling-houses,  principally 
built  of  wood,  on  one  street  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length. 
At  one  extremity  is  placed  the  old  college  of  William  and 
Mary,  and  at  the  other  the  State  House  is  situated.  It  em- 
braces the  public  offices  of  the  State,  and  in  it  the  Legislature 
has  been  accustomed  to  hold  its  sessions.  Here  I  saw  a  mar- 
ble statue,  at  full  length,  of  Lord  Boutetourt.  A  little  retired 
from  the  street  stands  the  palace  of  the  infamous  Lord  Dun- 
more,  the  last  royal  Governor  of  Virginia,  who  makes  a  con- 
spicuous figure  in  her  annals,  in  the  years  1774  and  1775.  I 
learned  with  pleasure,  from  an  intelligent  gentleman  of  Rich- 
mond, that  the  first  canal  commenced  in  America^  was  then 
constructing  from  Waltham  to  Richmond,  a  distance  of  seven 
miles.     Its  immediate  object  is  to  gain  access  to  a  coal  mine 


86  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

recently  discovered  on  the  estate  of  Mr.  Divol.  At  Williams- 
burgh  I  associated  myself  with  a  Captain  Harwood,  who  was 
proceeding  also  to  Charleston.  We  passed  the  Httle  village  of 
Jamestown,  on  James  river,  interesting  only  from  its  early  as- 
sociations and  venerable  ruins.  Here,  in  1607,  English  adven- 
turers first  landed  on  the  continent.  Here  Pocahontas,  the 
noble  daughter  of  Powhattan,  shielded  the  remnant  of  the 
colony  from  famine  and  treachery.  James  river  is  one  of  the 
finest  streams  in  America.  It  is  two  and  a  half  miles  wide  at 
this  place,  and  has  thirty  feet  water  in  its  channel. 

From  Cobham,  until  we  approached  Suffolk,  the  country  is 
level,  but  covered  with  woods.  Near  Suffolk  it  becomes  more 
cultivated.  Suffolk  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Nansemond  river, 
a  navigable,  but  winding,  shallow  stream.  Here  we  found  our- 
selves again  in  the  hands  of  the  civil  authorities,  on  a  com- 
plaint which  had  been  lodged  against  us  upon  a  suspicion  of  our 
being  spies.  My  exact  and  curious  inquiries  had  again  excit- 
ed jealousy  of  our  character.  We  were  compelled  to  go 
before  a  magistrate  two  miles  out  of  town,  exhibit  our  pass- 
ports, take  the  oath  of  abjuration,  and  pay  the  fees  of  office. 

Proceeding  from  Suffolk  to  Edenton,  North  Carolina,  we 
passed  over  a  spacious,  level  road,  through  a  pine  forest,  which, 
beginning  in  this  district,  extends  quite  across  North  Carolina. 
We  travelled  near  the  North  border  of  the  great  Dismal  swamp, 
which,  at  this  time,  was  infested  by  concealed  royalists,  and 
runaway  negroes,  who  could  not  be  approached  with,  safety. 
They  often  attacked  travellers,  and  had  recently  murdered  a 
Mr.  Williams. 

We  entered  North  Carolina  late  in  the  day,  availing 
ourselves  of  that  hospitality  so  characteristic  of  southern 
manners,  and  threw  ourselves  upon  the  kindness  of  Mr. 
Granby,  a  w^ealthy  planter  and  merchant.  From  this  gentle- 
man I  learned  that  the  Dismal  swamp  extends  about  fifty  miles 
north  and  south ;  that  it  is  generally  covered  with  water,  and 
has  in  its  centre,  a  lake  called  Drummond  Lake,  well  stored 
with  fish.  He  informed  me  that,  previous  to  the  Revolution, 
Washington  and  two  other  gentlemen  had  contemplated  open- 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  37 

ing  a  canal,  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  off  the  water  and  re- 
claiming the  land  for  cultivation.* 

Edenton  is  situated  on  the  Albemarle  Sound.  It  is  defend- 
ed by  two  forts,  and  contained  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  dwel- 
lings and  a  brick  court-house.  The  town  was  nearly  overrun  by 
the  busy  sons  of  commerce,  from  its  being  protected  against  the 
access  of  an  enemy,  by  the  difficult  navigation  of  a  shallow 
water.  At  Edenton  I  met  the  celebrated  Dr.  Wilhamson,  then 
a  resident  at  that  place. f 

At  this  place  we  crossed  the  sound,  twelve  miles,  and  en- 
tered a  romantic  creek,  up  which  we  sailed  some  distance 
before  landing.  We  were  delighted  and  soothed  by  the  serenity 
of  the  close  of  the  day,  and  the  serenade  of  innumerable  song- 
sters of  the  forest,  perched  upon  the  bushes  which  overhung  the 
boat  as  we  ascended  the  creek,  and  formed  in  some  places  natural 
canopies  over  us.  After  landing,  we  travelled  eleven  miles  to 
Colonel  Blount's,  where  we  arrived  late  at  night  in  Egyptian 
darkness.     We  were  attacked  in  his  yard  by  a  pack  of  hounds, 

*  A  canal  has  recently  (1821)  been  constructed  through  the  swamp,  connect- 
ing the  Chesapeake  with  Albemarle  Sound. 

t  This  was  the  identical  person  who  obtained  possession  of  the  celebrated  let- 
ters of  Governor  Hutchinson  to  the  British  Ministry.  Dr.  Williamson  having 
heard  that  the  letters  were  deposited  in  London,  at  a  place  different  from  that  in 
which  they  ought  regularly  to  have  been  filed,  and  having  understood  that  there 
was  little  exactness  in  the  business  of  that  office,  he  repaired  to  it,  and  stated 
that  he  had  come  for  the  last  letters  received  from  Governor  Hutchinson  and 
Mr.  OHver,  mentioning  at  the  same  time  the  office  in  which  they  should  have 
been  placed.  The  letters  were  delivered  to  him,  which  he  carried  to  Dr.  Frank- 
lin, and  left  the  next  day  for  Holland.  These  treacherous  and  malignant  letters 
were  the  approximate  cause  of  the  Revolution.  They  instigated  the  British  Gov- 
ernment to  adopt  those  harsh  measures,  which  goaded  a  brave  people  to  a  resist- 
ance, which  resulted  in  their  independence.  The  publication  of  the  letters  in 
Boston  was  a  torch  applied  to  the  revolutionary  train.  They  will  consign  the 
name  of  their  author  to  the  execration  of  posterity.  Suspicion  attached  to  Dr. 
Franklin,  who  was  arraigned  before  the  Privy  Council,  in  January,  1775,  and  in- 
famously abused  by  Wedderburn.  Williamson  guarded  the  secret  with  wonder- 
ful success.  ^  His  achievement  of  the  affair  was  not  publicly  disclosed  until  Dr. 
Hosack,  in  his  memoirs,  developed  the  interesting  fact.  The  matter  involved  Sir 
John  Temple  in  a  duel  with  Mr.  Whate.  The  fear  of  a  recurrence  of  similar 
affairs  induced  Dr.  Franklin  publicly  to  avow  his  reception  of  the  letters,  but  he 
denied  all  agency  in  the  procuring  of  them.— Editor. 


S8  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

but,  by  the  exertion  of  the  half-clad  negroes,  who  came  flying 
from  their  huts  to  our  aid,  and  the  assistance  of  our  own  whips, 
escaped  injury. 

From  Colonel  Blount's  we  proceeded  to  Bath  on  Pamlico 
Sound.  In  the  morning  our  ears  were  suddenly  assailed  by  the 
sound  of  the  very  pack  of  hounds  which  attacked  us  before,  in 
full  cry  after  a  panting  deer.  The  deer,  dogs,  and  huntsmen 
all  darted  across  the  road,  just  ahead  of  us.  The  face  of  the 
country  being  level,  with  here  and  there  a  straight,  "  cloud- 
capped"  pine,  and  with  no  underwood,  we  hallooed  and  saw 
the  chase  with  great  delight,  far  away  into  the  woods.  The 
deer  was  soon  in  their  gripe,  and  although  the  scene  was  at  the 
moment  most  animating,  when  it  closed,  I  could  not  suppress 
a  sigh  at  the  fate  of  the  inoffensive  hunted  animal. 

We  arrived  late  in  the  day  at  Bath,  after  travelling  over  a 
most  sterile  and  desolate  sandy  plain.  The  dreariness  was 
scarcely  relieved  by  the  appearance  of  a  house,  except  a  few 
miserable  tar  burner's  huts.  We  crossed  Pamlico  Sound  in  an 
open  ferry-boat,  a  distance  of  five  miles.  After  landing,  we 
travelled  the  whole  day  amid  a  gloomy  region  of  sands  and 
pines.  The  road  w^as  spacious,  and  in  a  direct  line.  The  ma- 
jestic perpendicular  pines,  apparently  towering  to  the  clouds, 
imparted  an  imposing  and  solemn  aspect  to  the  scenery.  The 
only  relief  from  this  monotony,  and  the  cheerless  and  painful 
silence  we  found,  was  in  noticing  the  watchful  and  timid  deer 
grazing  in  the  woods.  The  moment  they  perceived  us  ap- 
proach, their  long  necks  were  arched,  and  their  ears  pricked 
up  ready  for  a  spring.  Sometimes,  however,  they  would  gaze 
intently  at  us  with  a  wild  and  anxious  eye,  and  remain  station- 
ary until  we  passed.  We  gave  chase  to  a  wild  Turkey  who 
maintained  his  equal  right  to  the  road,  like  a  true  North  Caro- 
lina republican,  and  in  spite  of  our  efforts  he  stretched  away 
upon  his  long  legs,  far  beyond  our  reach.  The  few  inhabi- 
tants scattered  here  and  there  in  the  forest,  subsist  by  the 
chase,  burning  tar,  and  collecting  turpentine.  In  the  latter 
process,  they  strip  the  trees,  to  a  certain  height,  of  the  bark, 
by  which  means  the  turpentine  is  conducted  into  deep  reser- 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  89 

voirs  cut  in  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  whence  it  is  collected.  This 
is  called  blazing  the  trees. 

It  was  nearly  dark  when  we  reached  the  river  Neuse.  It 
rained,  and  the  wind  began  to  blow,  yet  we  determined,  con- 
trary to  the  advice  of  the  owner  of  the  boat,  to  risk  the  pas- 
sage of  a  stream  two  miles  wide.  Harwood,  a  high-spirited, 
daring  fellow,  persisted  in  urging  the  attempt,  but  we  soon  had 
reason  to  deplore  our  indiscretion.  Our  boat  was  small  and 
conducted  by  two  stupid  negroes,  one  of  whom  was  a  female. 
The  wind  rose  to  a  side  gale,  and  as  we  advanced  the  storm  in- 
creased. Our  horses  became  restive — the  night  was  intensely 
dark,  and  the  sea  began  to  break  over  the  boat's  side.  At  this 
crisis  (having  been  accustomed  from  my  youth  to  water  and 
boats)  I  seized  upon  a  broken  oar  to  steer  with,  and  implored 
Harwood  to  bail  the  water  out  with  his  hat,  and  steady  the 
horses.  Happily  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  light  at  the  ferry-house, 
and  by  it  was  enabled  to  direct  our  course.  But  for  this  for- 
tunate circumstance,  we  must  have  been  bewildered  on  the 
river  and  almost  inevitably  perished,  as  the  water  had  half 
filled  the  boat  when  we  gained  the  shore,  in  despite  of  Har- 
wood's  efforts.  Although  my  tongue  was  silent,  my  heart 
poured  forth  its  thanks  for  preservation  to  that  Eternal  Father 
who  had  shielded  us,  and  into  whose  hands  I  committed  my- 
self on  mounting  my  horse  at  Providence.  We  rewarded  the 
poor  negroes,  again  mounted  our  horses,  and  proceeded  on  to 
Nevvbern,  the  capital  of  North  Carolina,  groping  our  way  in 
the  dark  along  unknown  roads,  and  drenched  by  the  heavy  rains. 

On  our  arrival,  excessively  wearied,  and  needing  re- 
pose and  shelter,  we  wandered  in  pursuit  of  quarters,  from 
street  to  street,  and  were  turned  from  tavern  to  tavern,  every 
house  being  filled  by  French   adventurers.     At  one  of  these 

taverns,  kept  by  one  T ,  we  were  repulsed  by  the  landlord 

with  so  much  rudeness  as  to  produce  a  severe  quarrel  in  the 
piazza,  where  we  stood  soliciting  quarters.  Newbern  was  the 
metropolis  of  North  Carolina,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Neuse  and  Trent  rivers,  and  contained  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  dwellings.     It  was  defended  by  a  strong  fort  and  an  armed 


40  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  KEVOLUTION  ; 

ship.  Previous  to  the  war  it  exported  corn,  naval  stores,  bees- 
wax, hams,  and  deer  skins  to  a  considerable  amount. 

The  next  morning  Harwood  proceeded  to  a  barber's 
shop  to  be  shaved.  I  soon  after  started  in  pursuit  of  the 
same  barber.  I  had  not  gone  far  before  I  met  Harwood, 
his  pace  somewhat  quickened,  and  with  one  side  only  of 
his  face  shaved.  He  soon  informed  me  that  the  barber 
had  been  impertinent,  that  he  had  knocked  him  down, 
and  left  him  sprawling  on  the  floor.  We  agreed  that  to 
avoid  trouble  he  should  push  on,  and  that  I  should  fol- 
low. He  was  soon  on  his  way  through  the  streets  of  the 
capital  of  North  Carolina,  in  the  ludicrous  predicament  I  have 
described.  I  left  Newbern  soon  after  upon  Harwood's  track, 
and  crossed  the  Trent  by  a  rope  ferry  seventy  feet  wide.  I 
journeyed  the  entire  day  alone,  through  a  wilderness  of  pines, 
over  a  flat,  sandy  country,  with  scarcely  an  inhabitant  to  be 
seen.  Towards  the  close  of  the  day  1  found  myself  entangled 
among  swamps  amid  an  utter  wilderness,  and  my  horse  almost 
exhausted  in  my  efforts  to  overtake  Harwood.  As  night 
closed  upon  me,  I  was  totally  bewildered,  and  without  a  vestige 
of  a  road  to  guide  me.  Knowing  the  impossibility  of  retra- 
cing my  steps  in  the  dark,  through  the  mazes  I  had  traversed, 
I  felt  the  absolute  necessity  of  passing  the  night  in  this  soli- 
tary desert.  Feeling  no  apprehension  that  my  horse  would 
wander  far  from  me,  I  turned  him  to  shift  for  himself.  I  then 
placed  my  box  under  the  sulky,  and  with  my  pistols  fresh 
primed  on  one  side,  and  my  hanger  on  the  other,  I  drew  around 
me  my  grego,  and,  prostrated  on  the  ground  along  with  these, 
my  only  companions,  half  asleep  and  half  awake,  I  passed  the 
night  in  no  trifling  apprehension  of  falling  a  prey  to  wild  beasts 
before  morning. 

At  length,  to  my  inexpressible  satisfaction,  the  eastern  hori- 
zon began  to  kindle  up,  and  gradually  to  brighten  more  and 
more  into  the  full  blaze  of  day.  I  found  my  faithful  horse  true 
to  his  allegiance,  and  within  reach.  I  harnessed  up,  and  press- 
ed with  as  much  speed  as  possible  out  of  this  dreary  retreat  of 
solitude  and  desolation.  My  movements  were  somewhat  accel- 
erated by  observing  a  large  bear  stepping  slowly  along  at  a 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  41 

little  distance  from  me.  After  several  miles  travelling  I  regained 
the  road,  and  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon  overtook  Harwood. 

We  crossed  Neuse  river,  and  passed  over  a  continu- 
ous pine  barren  to  Wilmington,  on  Cape  Fear  river.  This 
was  a  compact  town,  ten  miles  from  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded 
by  sand  hills.  It  was  defended  by  two  forts,  and  two  brigs  of 
sixteen  guns  each.*  It  formerly  exported  large  quantities  of 
naval  stores,  pork,  furs,  &c.,  which  it  received  by  the  river 
from  the  fertile  country  in  the  interior.  The  killing  of  deer 
by  torch-light  was  a  favorite  amusement  of  the  inhabitants  of 
this  region.  A  negro  precedes  the  sportsmen,  bearing  a 
piece  of  burning  pitch  pine ;  the  foolish  animal,  fascinated  by 
the  light,  remains  stationary,  with  his  head  erect,  and  his  eyes 
steadily  fixed  on  the  blaze.  The  glare  of  his  eyes  expose  him 
to  the  sportsman's  aim,  who  approaches  the  deer  as  near  as  he 
pleases.  Thus  it  often  happens  among  men — that  the  unwary 
are  allured  by  a  deceptive  glitter,  are  beguiled  by  false  promi- 
ses, and  fall  victims  to  their  own  credulity. 

On  leaving  Wilmington  we  crossed  the  Cape  Fear  river,  which 
is  here  two  hundred  yards  wide,  and  navigable  by  vessels  of  twen- 
ty feet  draught.  At  Brunswick  nearly  all  the  houses  had  been  de- 
serted from  apprehension  of  the  enemy.  From  this  place  to 
Lockwood's  Folly,  twenty-two  miles,  is  an  unbroken  wilderness  ; 
not  a  house,  not  even  a  wild  tar-burner's,  was  presented  to  our 
view  the  whole  distance.  Fortunately  forewarned,  we  had  pre- 
pared ourselves  with  supplies  to  encounter  this  desert.  At  night 
we  encamped  at  a  wretched  hovel,  without  floor  or  furniture.  We 
luckily  ran  down  a  fat  opossum  in  the  woods,  which,  with 
sweet  potatoes,  made  a  fine  repast.  Hunger  supplied  the  want 
of  dainties.  The  opossum  has  much  the  taste  of  a  fat  pig. 
Our  poor  horses  fared  badly.  They  were  compelled  to  stand 
tied  to  a  tree,  with  nothing  to  eat,  after  the  fatigue  of  a  hard 
day's  journey.  We  slept  on  a  bare  ox  hide,  with  no  covering 
but  our  clothes. 

The  next  day  we  crossed  Little  river,  the  country  continu- 

*  In  two  or  three  years  afterwards  it  was  taken  by  the  British,  and  occupied 
by  Lord  Cornwallis  as  a  point  of  retreat. 


42  MEN-  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

ing  to  exhibit  the  same  dreary  and  desolate  aspect.  The  en- 
suing morning  we  passed  a  dangerous  wash,  at  the  north  en- 
trance of  Long  Bay.  Suddenly  the  ocean  and  several  ships  burst 
upon  our  view.  The  contrast  was  a  great  relief  to  our  minds 
and  eyes  after  travelling  so  many  days  over  a  waste  of  sand. 

We  rode  along  this  bay  for  sixteen  miles  on  the  edge 
of  the  surf,  upon  a  hard,  firm  beach.  The  swell  roared  and 
curled  upon  the  shore,  and  as  we  advanced,  the  variety  of  sea- 
birds  starting  on  the  wing,  and  a  school  of  porpoises  rolling  up 
their  black  backs  on  the  surface  of  the  sea,  amused  us  as  we 
passed  along  this  beautiful  scene.  Sand  hillocks  ran  parallel 
with  the  shore  on  our  right,  over  which  land  birds  were  con- 
tinually hovering.  We  were  alarmed  and  surprised  as  we  en- 
tered on  the  circuit  of  this  bay,  to  observe,  as  we  thought  for 
the  moment,  several  men,  with  horses  and  carriages,  at  a  dis- 
tance, swimming  in  the  sea.  We  were  soon,  however,  re- 
lieved by  noticing  an  exhalation  in  that  direction,  which  had 
produced  the  mirage.  About  half  way  across  the  beach  we 
met  a  group  of  travellers,  who  proved  to  be  General  Mcintosh 
and  suite  going  to  the  north  to  join  the  army. 

We  mutually  stopped  to  exchange  civilities  and  learn  the 
news.  Our  minds  had  for  several  days  been  depressed  in  reflect- 
ing upon  the  critical  condition  of  our  national  affairs.  Gracious 
God!  how  were  we  astonished  and  transported  with  joy,  on  hear- 
ing from  the  General  that  Burgoyne  and  his  whole  army  were 
prisoners  of  war.  In  confirmation  of  the  intelligence,  he  presented 
us  a  handbill,  printed  at  Charleston,  containing  the  articles  of 
capitulation.  We  involuntarily  took  off  our  hats  and  gave  three 
hearty  cheers  in  concert  with  the  roaring  of  the  surge.  All 
considered  this  glorious  event  as  deciding  the  question  of  our 
eventual  Independence.  In  triumph  we  carried  the  joyous 
new^s  to  the  hospitable  seat  of  William  Alston,  Esq.,  one  of  the 
most  respectable  and  affluent  planters  in  South  Carolina.  We 
arrived  at  the  close  of  the  day,  but  were  received  with  open 
arms,  and  entertained  in  the  most  sumptuous  style.  With 
music  and  his  best  madeh'a,  we  celebrated  the  great  event  we 
had  announced,  in  high  glee,  to  a  late  hour  of  the  night. 


43 


We  had  been  cautioned  to  be  on  our  guard  against  the  at- 
tacks of  runaway  negroes,  in  the  passage  of  swamps  near 
Wingan  Bay.  As  w^e  entered  the  second  swamp,  fourteen 
naked  negroes  armed  with  poles,  presented  themselves  in  the 
attitude  of  hostility,  across  the  road.  Harwood  seized  one  of 
my  pistols  and  charged  them  at  full  speed,  making  the  wood 
resound  with  his  thundering  voice.  I  pressed  forward  close 
to  his  heels  in  my  sulky,  armed  with  the  other  pistol.  They 
threw  down  their  rails  and  dashed  into  the  woods,  and  we 
passed  on  without  further  interruption. 

As  evening  closed  in,  we  embarked  in  a  good  ferry-boat, 
manned  by  four  jolly,  well-fed  negroes,  to  cross  Wingan  Bay, 
a  distance  of  four  miles.  The  evening  was  serene,  the  stars 
shone  brightly,  and  the  poor  fellows  amused  us  the  whole  way 
by  singing  their  plaintive  African  songs  in  cadence  with  the 
oars.  We  reached  Georgetown  in  the  evening.  It  stands  on 
Wingan  river,  and  is  the  second  place  of  importance  in  the 
State.  After  leaving  Georgetown  we  passed  the  Black  river, 
and  crossing  a  second  ferry,  travelled  over  Santee  island. 

At  length,  on  the  18th  of  November,  1777,  the  city  of 
Charleston  presented  itself  to  our  view.  We  left  our  horses  and 
crossed  Cooper's  river  in  a  yawd.  I  was  delighted  with  the 
view^  of  this  splendid  city,  and  the  shipping  in  its  harbor. 
After  a  seventy  days'  journey  from  Providence,  having  travel- 
led 1,243  miles,  it  was  to  me  almost  like  the  entrance  of  the 
Israelite  into  the  promised  land.  I  performed  the  whole  route 
either  on  horseback  or  in  a  sulky.'^ 

*  At  that  day,  and  under  the  circumstances  of  the  country,  this  was  the  most 
commodious  and  practicable  way  of  travelling.  A  fact  almost  surpassing  belief, 
in  these  days  of  stage-coach  and  railroad  facilities. 


44  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Orange  Orchard — Fire  at  Charleston — Governor  Rutledge — Makes  Tour 
in  Georgia — Warmth  of  Season — Gouging  Match — Amusing  Scene — 
Indians — Little  Carpenter — Port  Eoyal  Island — Cotton  Picking  by 
Hand— Eli  Whitney's  Cotton  Gin— Beaufort— Dr.  Zubley— Silk— Tea 
— Savannah. 

On  my  arrival  I  delivered  the  funds  which  had  been  confided 
to  me,  and  which  I  had  carried  the  whole  length  of  my  jour- 
ney, securely  quilted  in  the  lining  of  my  coat,  at  their  place  of 
destination,  and  made  the  preliminary  arrangement  to  carry 
out  Mr.  Brown's  plans.  I  again  crossed  Cooper's  river  to  the 
plantation  of  a  Mr.  Townsend,  where  we  had  left  our  horses. 
I  here  examined  an  orchard  of  eleven  hundred  orange  trees,  in 
full  bearing.  The  fruit  proved  rather  bitter  to  the  taste,  but 
exceedingly  beautiful.  In  December  one  of  Mr.  Brown's 
brigs  was  burnt  in  sight  of  the  town  ;  several  of  his  ships  had, 
however,  arrived. 

In  the  intervals  of  business  I  mingled,  with  delight,  in 
the  elegant  and  gay  society  of  this  refined  metropolis, 
under  the  wing  of  Mr.  Russel,  the  consignee  of  Mr.  Brown, 
a  gentleman  of  New-England  origin,  but  occupying  a  distin- 
guished position  in  the  mercantile  community  of  Charleston. 
My  prospects  were  brilliant  and  auspicious,  when  a  deep  pub- 
lic and  private  calamity  cast  a  dark  pall  over  the  whole.  I 
had  parsed  the  evening  of  the  15th  of  January,  '78,  with  a 
brilliant  party,  at  the  splendid  mansion  of  a  wealthy  merchant 
of  the  city.  In  two  hours  after  we  had  left  the  scene  of  ele- 
gant refinement,  the  stately  edifice,  the  rich  furniture,  and  all 
its  gorgeous  appliances  were  wrapt  in  flames.  In  the  mid 
hours  of  a  cold  and  tempestuous  night,  I  was  aroused  by  the 
cry  of  fire,  and  by  a  loud  knocking  at  the  door,  with  the  ap- 
palling intelligence — "  The  town  's  in  flames."  I  pressed  for- 
ward to  the  theatre  of  one  of  the  most  terrific  conflagrations 
that  probably  ever  visited  Charleston.  The  devastation  was 
frightful.     The  fire  raged  with  unmitigated  fury  for  seventeen 


45 


hours.  Every  vessel,  shallop,  and  negro-boat  was  crowded 
with  the  distressed  inhabitants.  Many  who,  a  few"  hours 
before,  retired  to  their  beds  in  affluence,  were  now  reduced,  by 
the  all-devouring  element,  to  indigence. 

After  laboring  at  the  fire  for  many  hours,  I  returned 
to  my  quarters  to  obtain  a  brief  respite.  I  had  scarcely 
seated  myself  before  a  man  rushed  in,  exclaiming — "  Your 
roof  is  on  fire  !"  The  mass  of  the  conflagration  was  yet 
afar  off,  but  it  as  it  were,  rained  fire.  When  we  had 
extinguished  the  flame  on  the  roof,  1  thought  it  time  to 
remove  my  trunk,  containing  funds  to  a  large  amount.  Not 
being  able  to  procure  assistance,  I  was  constrained  to  shoulder 
it  myself.  Staggering  under  my  load,  (a  burden  which,  in  or- 
dinary times,  I  could  scarcely  have  lifted)  I  proceeded  along 
Main-street.  The  fire  had  extended  far  and  wide,  and  was 
bearing  down,  in  awful  majesty,  a  sea  of  flame.  Almost  the 
whole  of  this  spacious  street  exhibited,  on  one  side,  a  continu- 
ous and  glaring  blaze.  My  heart  sickened  at  beholding  half- 
dressed  matrons,  delicate  young  ladies  and  children,  wandering 
about  unprotected,  and  in  despair. 

I  soon  found  myself  prostrated  on  the  ground,  along- 
side of  my  trunk,  by  the  explosion  of  a  large  building. 
Fortunately  being  uninjured,  I  hastened  on  until  I  reached 
an  elegant  house  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  Without 
hesitation  I  entered  it,  and,  seeing  no  one,  went  into  a 
splendid  parlor,  deposited  my  trunk  in  a  closet,  locked  the 
door,  and  put  the  key  in  my  pocket.  Early  the  next  morning 
I  went  in  pursuit  of  my  trunk.  I  everywhere  saw  heart-rend- 
ing spectacles  amid  the  smoking  ruins,  and  the  constant  falling 
of  walls  and  chimneys.  I  reached  the  house  where  I  had  left 
my  trunk,  which  I  then  first  discovered  was  the  residence  of 
Governor  Rutledge.  A  young  gentleman  answered  my  knock, 
of  whom  I  requested  my  trunk.  He  eyed  me  with  attention, 
and  casting  a  suspicious  glance  upon  my  person  and  clothes, 
replied,  that  not  knowing  me,  he  could  not  deliver  it.  My  face 
and  hand  had  been  injured,  and  my  clothes  torn  in  the  confu- 
sion of  the  fire.  I  was  mortified,  but  conscious  that  my  ap- 
pearance justified  his  suspicion.     I  forthwith  proceeded  to  a 


46  MEN"  AND  TIMKS   OF  THE   KEVOLUTION ; 

friend,  borrowed  a  clean  shirt  and  decent  clothes,  (my  own 
being  locked  up  in  the  Governor's  parlor)  got  shaved  and  pow- 
dered, and  again  proceeded  after  my  trunk.  I  knocked  with 
confidence,  was  politely  received  by  the  same  young  gentle- 
man, who  evidently  did  not  recall  my  features.  I  was  ushered 
into  the  presence  of  the  Governor.  I  stated  to  him  where  I 
had  placed  my  trunk,  and  was  apologizing  for  the  liberty,  when 
he  interrupted  me,  remarking  that  the  fearful  crisis  justified 
me.  He  continued — ''  Sit  down,  sir — will  you  take  a  glass  of 
wine  ?  My  secretary  informed  me  that  a  person  called  for  the 
trunk  an  hour  or  two  ago,  but  not  liking  his  appearance  he 
had  declined  delivering  it."  The  Governor  was  much  amused 
at  understanding  that  I  was  the  person  who  had  called.  I  re- 
cord this  incident  to  show  the  importance  of  external  appear- 
ance to  a  man's  success  in  the  world,  and  more  particularly, 
among  strangers. 

Having  arranged  my  affairs  in  Charleston  (for  the  occur- 
rence of  the  fire  had  totally  broken  up  and  prostrated  my  busi- 
ness operations)  I  determined,  in  company  with  a  Mr.  Bloom- 
field,  of  Boston,  and  Mr.  Clark,  of  New-Haven,  to  extend  my 
tour  to  the  south  as  far  as  prudence  should  warrant.  In  pur 
suance  of  this  plan  we  left  Charleston  on  the  29th  of  January, 
1778,     I  transcribe  a  synopsis  of  my  journal. 

The  road  to  Ashley  river  is  delightful.  We  passed  many 
elegant  seats,  wdth  fine  gardens  and  grounds.  The  road  in 
some  places  is  shaded  by  lofty  trees,  from  which  we  were 
sweetly  serenaded  by  the  music  of  beautiful  birds,  offering  up, 
we  could  believe,  their  evening  praises  to  our  common  Bene- 
factor. To  a  northern  constitution  the  heat  is  rather  uncom- 
fortable, exceeding  that  usual  to  the  month  of  May  in  New- 
England.  Many  of  the  early  vegetables  had  already  appeared. 
In  this  month  garden  seeds,  with  us,  are  ordinarily  sown.  A 
tranquil  summer  sky,  fanning  breezes  from  the  south,  the  ver- 
dure of  evergreens,  the  croaking  of  frogs  and  the  chirping  of 
birds,  all  indicated  the  advent  of  spring. 

On  this  river  are  situated  the  choicest  plantations,  and  the 
most  elegant  and  numerous  country-seats  in  the  State.     The 


47 


extensive  marshes  bordering  upon  this  and  other  adjacent 
streams,  had  recently  been  converted  into  highly  productive 
rice  plantations,  to  which  culture  they  are  well  adapted.  In 
the  evening  of  this  day  we  were  much  annoyed  by  the  quarrel 
of  two  overseers  in  an  adjoining  room,  who  soon  gave  us  a 
fair  (or  rather  foul)  specimen  of  a  genuine  Georgia  gouging- 
match.  They  rushed  upon  each  other  with  the  fury  and 
ferocity  of  bull-dogs,  and  made  every  effort  to  gouge  out  each 
other's  eyes.  We  at  length  succeeded  in  separating  them. 
This  house  afforded  us  neither  rest  nor  comfort.  The  sheets 
were  smutty,  the  rooms  filthy,  and  literally  alive  with  fleas  and 
bed-bugs.  We  turned  in  with  all  our  clothes  on,  and  yet  the 
ravenous  fleas  penetrated  to  the  skm. 

In  the  morning,  as  we  were  about  leaving  the  inn,  an 
old  French  officer  rode  up  and  tied  his  horse  to  the  post, 
and  passing  us  with  a  profound  bow,  entered  the  house. 
He  wore  a  three-cornered  cocked  hat,  a  laced  coat,  a  long 
queue  tied  close  to  his  head,  with  a  ribbon  in  a  large 
double  bow,  his  hair  powdered,  and  a  long  sword  dang- 
ling by  his  side.  He  spoke  only  French.  Immediately  after 
him  came  up  a  negro  riding  on  a  mule,  which,  in  despite  of 
his  rider's  efforts,  dashed  in  between  the  post  and  the  horse. 
In  the  struggle  the  horse's  bridle  broke,  and  away  went  the 
horse  into  the  woods,  with  a  heavy  portmanteau  dancing  at 
his  side.  The  Frenchman,  no  doubt,  thinking  it  all  design, 
(for  he  did  not  seem  to  comprehend  a  word  of  the  negro's  ex- 
planation) drew  his  long  sword,  his  eyes  flashing  fury.  The 
moment  the  negro  saw  the  sword,  he  sprang  off  his  mule,  and 
darted  for  the  forest,  with  Monsieur  in  full  chase  after  him, 
vociferating  most  vehemently.  At  first  we  were  alarmed,  but 
perceiving  the  negro  to  be  too  nimble  for  him,  were  exceed- 
ingly amused  by  the  chase.  Despairing  of  overtaking  the  lad, 
the  Frenchman  darted  his  sword  after  him,  exclaiming — 
'•'  Belitre — diable,  &c. !"  We  soon  after  started,  and  saw  the  poor 
terrified  black  still  scudding  away,  far  off  among  the  pines. 

The  next  day  we  passed  Pond  Pond,  and  travelled  over  an 
interesting  country,  interspersed  with  fine  plantations.  The 
roads  are  as  level  as  a  bowling-green,  and  generally  in  a  direct 


48  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE  KEVOLUTION ; 

line.  We  noticed  peas  in  blossom.  Near  the  Ashepoo  we 
observed  several  Indians  seated  on  a  log.  We  ascertained 
that  they  were  the  celebrated  warrior  Little  Carpenter,  king 
of  the  Cherokees,  with  his  queen  and  several  councillors,  on 
their  way  to  Charleston,  to  "  brighten  and  strengthen,"  as  he 
told  us,  in  good  English,  "  the  chain  of  union."  They  were 
alternately  whiffing  out  of  a  great  wooden  pipe,  which  was 
passed  from  one  to  the  other,  whilst  an  elbow  was  rested  on 
the  knee,  and  the  body  a  little  projected  forward.  I  seated 
myself  by  the  king,  and  took  my  whiffin  turn,  and  finding  him 
of  a  social  cast,  did  not  fail  to  ply  him  pretty  closely  with  my 
Yankee  questions. 

We  passed  Barnard  Elliot's  magnificent  residence,  and 
those  of  other  planters,  in  the  distance,  on  avenues  cut 
through  the  woods,  and  surrounded  by  their  Uttle  villages 
of  negro  huts.  The  1st  of  February  we  had  a  succes- 
sion of  showers,  with  heavy  thunder,  similar  to  our  northern 
April  w^eather.  The  next  day  we  crossed  over  to  Port  Royal 
island.  At  the  ferry-house,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night,  a 
party  of  the  young  folks  of  the  lower  order  had  assembled,  and 
willing  to  contribute  to  their  amusement,  as  well  as  my  own, 
I  took  out  my  flute,  and  playing  some  jigs,  set  them  dancing, 
shuffling,  and  capering  in  merry  style. 

This  island  is  about  ten  miles  square.  The  land  is  generally 
poor,  affording  but  a  few  rice  plantations.  The  staple  is  indigo, 
which  grows  on  a  light  soil.  Some  cotton  is  cultivated  here  for 
domestic  purposes ;  but  as  it  is  so  difficult  to  disentangle  the  fibre 
from  the  seed,  its  extensive  culture  is  not  attempted,  although 
it  eminently  flourishes  in  this  climate,  and  is  a  most  important 
article.  Every  evening  we  have  noticed  the  negroes,  old  and 
young,  clustered  in  their  huts,  around  their  pine-knot  fires, 
plucking  the  obstinate  seed  from  the  cotton.* 

*  This,  it  is  not  necessary  to  add,  was  before  the  days  of  Eli  Whitney,  one  of 
the  great  benefactors  of  the  South.  Mr.  Whitney  was  a  native  of  Connecticut, 
early  distinguished  for  his  mechanical  genius,  who  visited  Georgia  in  the  pros- 
pect of  securing  a  situation  of  private  tutor.  He  was  disappointed  in  the  hope, 
and  was  received,  almost  in  charity,  under  the  benevolent  roof  of  Mrs.  Green,  the 
widow  of  General  Green.     A  party  of  gentlemen  conversing  incidentally  on  the 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  49 

Deer  and  foxes  abound  on  this  island.  Beaufort  is  hand- 
somely situated,  and  contains  about  seventy  houses,  besides 
public  buildings,  and  is  defended  by  a  respectable  fort,  two 
miles  below  the  town.  We  retraced  our  steps,  and  again 
crossed  the  ferry.  At  noon,  stopping  at  a  very  decent  looking 
house,  which  we  supposed  to  be  a  tavern,  we  ordered  our  din- 
ner, wine,  (fee,  with  the  utmost  freedom.  What  was  our 
amazement  and  mortification,  when  inquiring  for  the  bill,  our 
host  replied — ''  Gentlemen,  I  keep  no  tavern,  but  am  very 
much  obliged  to  you  for  your  visit."  In  the  true  spirit 
of  southern  liberality,  he  insisted  upon  our  taking  a  bed  with 
him  on  our  return  from  Georgia.  This  incident  exhibits  the 
beautiful  trait  of  hospitality,  for  which  the  south  is  so  distin- 
guished. 

On  the  6th  of  February  we  reached  the  Savannah 
river  at  Zubley's  ferry.  At  the  same  time  Dr.  Zubley  and  his 
son  crossed  the  river  from  the  Georgia  side.  Dr.  Zubley,  a 
very  learned  and  eminent  man,  is  a  Swiss  by  birth,  and  recent- 
ly was  a  distinguished  preacher  in  Savannah.  Zealous  in  the 
cause  of  American  liberty,  he  represented  Georgia  in  the  first 
Congress   which  assembled    at    Philadelphia,    in    September, 

subject,  were  lamenting  that  there  was  no  means  of  separating  the  seed  from  the 
cotton  ;  and  remarked,  that  until  ingenuity  could  devise  some  machine  to  effect 
the  purpose,  it  was  vain  to  think  of  raising  cotton  to  export.  "  Gentlemen," 
said  Mrs.  Green,  *'  apply  to  my  young  friend,  Mr.  Whitney,  he  can  make  any- 
thing." When  the  matter  was  proposed  to  Whitney,  he  replied  that  he  had 
never  seen  cotton  or  cotton  seed  in  his  life.  The  subject  was  thus,  however, 
suggested  to  his  mind,  and  with  tools  most  inadequate,  and  much  of  the  mate- 
rials made  by  himself,  in  the  course  of  a  few  months,  he  perfected  a  machine 
which  answered  every  desired  purpose.  Thus,  by  the  force  of  intuitive  genius, 
one  man  called  into  practical  being  the  staple  of  an  entire  country,  revolution- 
ized its  affairs,  and  added  millions  to  its  wealth.  When  the  fact  of  such  a  dis- 
covery was  known,  the  populace  was  so  determined  to  possess  the  machine, 
that  they  broke  open  his  house  and  seized  it.  Before  Whitney  was  able  to 
make  his  model  and  procure  his  patent,  many  machines  were  already  in  opera- 
tion. This  violent  procedure  robbed  the  inventor  of  much  of  the  benefit  of  his 
discovery.  It  was  emphatically  stated  by  Whitney,  in  a  subsequent  application 
to  Congress  for  remuneration  (and  in  which,  by  singular  ingratitude,  he  was  de- 
feated, by  the  efforts  of  Southern  members)  "  that  his  invention  had  been  the 
source  of  opulence  to  thousands  of  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  and  that  as 
a  labor-saving  machine,  it  would  enable  one  man  to  perform  the  work  of  one 
thousand  men." 

4 


50 


1774.  This  measure  tended  to  weaken  the  chain  by  which  a 
mighty  continent  was  held  in  colonization  by  a  little  island 
thr  ee  thousand  miles  distant.  Dr.  Zubley  informed  us  that  he 
could  not  conscientiously  sustain  the  cause  of  Independence, 
and  in  consequence,  that  he  and  his  son  were  this  day  banish- 
ed from  Georgia,  and  his  estate  confiscated.  He  expressed 
strong  indignation  at  the  ingratitude  and  harshness  he  had  ex- 
perienced. Although  much  depressed  and  extremely  agitated, 
his  conversation  was  in  the  highest  degree  interesting  and  in- 
structive. He  concluded  the  evening  with  an  eloquent  and 
affecting  appeal  to  the  throne  of  grace  to  vindicate  the  recti- 
tude of  his  intentions. 

We  had  been  constrained  to  stop  the  night  before  at  a 
wretched  hovel,  kept  by  an  old  Irish  ghole.  We  fared  in  the 
worst  possible  manner.  The  old  woman  was  covered  with 
filth  and  snufF,  there  w^as  no  light  but  pine-knots,  and  the  room 
was  filled  with  smoke,  A  decrepid,  dirty  wench  was  busy  about 
the  fire  cooking  our  supper ;  but  we  saw  enough  to  stay  pro- 
ceedings, and  contented  ourselves  with  a  meal  of  sweet  pota- 
toes, peeled  by  our  own  hands,  and  pure  water.  Soon  after 
we  had  finished  our  repast,  the  infuriated  hag  burst  into  our 
room,  and  seizing  one  of  our  whips,  rushed  into  an  adjoining 
bed-room,  with  a  pine  torch  in  her  hands,  an  impersonation  of 
fury.  Here  she  applied  her  heavy  strokes  to  the  poor,  helpless 
wench,  who  could  scarcely  crawl,  with  the  most  diabolical 
purpose.  Knocking  the  negress  down,  she  commenced  pound- 
ing her  head  with  the  but  end  of  the  whip.  Fearing  she 
might  commit  murder,  we  arrested  her  infernal  arm,  when  she 
turned  the  full  battery  of  her  Billingsgate  on  us,  swearing  she 

had  a  right  "  by  J •  to  kill  her  own  nager  if  she  plased."  This 

painful  scene  illustrated  a  remark  I  often  heard  at  the  South, 
that  Northern  overseers  were  the  hardest  task-masters,  and 
foreign  owners  the  most  cruel  masters.  The  relation  between 
the  native  master  and  his  slave,  seems  generally  to  be  of  the 
fondest  and  most  affectionate  character.  At  the  dawn  of  the 
ensuing  morning,  we  rejoiced  to  leave  this  den,  after  confer- 
ring our  blessing  upon  mother  Adamson. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  51 

The  next  day  we  crossed  the  river  and  entered  Georgia. 
We  traversed  a  bad  causeway,  and  for  the  first  time  in  several 
hundred  miles,  ascended  a  steep  hill,  and  passed  several  rivu- 
lets running  briskly  across  the  road.  This  was  a  new  and 
cheering  sight.  From  the  ferry  to  Savannah,  a  distance  of 
twenty-four  miles,  we  noticed  many  valuable  plantations, 
where  rice,  tobacco,  and  indigo  are  cultivated  with  success. 
We  also  remarked  extensive  orchards  of  white  mulberries,  de- 
signed to  supply  silk-worms.  The  silk  culture  has  taken  deep 
root  in  this  State,  and  will  doubtless  become  an  important  sta- 
ple for  exportation  in  a  few  years.*  We  crossed  some  small 
bridges,  traversed  several  hills,  and  then  entered  Savannah,  the 
capital  of  Georgia.  We  delivered  our  letters  to  General  Wal- 
ton, one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
Commodore  Bowen  and  other  gentlemen,  which  gained  us 
early  admission  into  the  delightful  society  of  the  city.  Savan- 
nah is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  upon  a  high  sand- 
bluff' overlooking  the  river,  and  commanding  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  adjacent  country,  which  is  principally  appropriated  to 
rice  plantations. 

*  1821.  Silk  has  long  been  cultivated  at  the  north  (in  Connecticut)  as  well  as 
Georgia,  and  it  should  now  be  pursued  with  augmented  energy.  Its  successful 
culture  would  save  to  the  nation  millions  of  dollars  annually,  which  now  are  ab- 
stracted from  the  country  to  pamper  the  manufactures  of  the  old  world.  Another 
analogous  interest  demands  the  earnest  attention  of  southern  patriots.  I  allude 
to  the  tea  culture.  The  history  of  this  extraordinary  herb  is  involved  in  much 
obscurity.  China  and  Japan  being  the  seats  of  its  growth,  Europeans  have 
been  excluded  from  any  observation  or  knowledge  of  its  mode  of  cultivation.  It 
is  ascertained,  however,  that  it  delights  in  valleys  and  the  sides  of  hills  affording 
a  southern  exposure  ;  that  it  is  congenial  to  mild  and  temperate  climates,  grow- 
ing between  30°  and  45®  N.  latitude,  which  probably  corresponds  to  about  lO'^ 
less  on  this  continent.  It  flourishes  most  on  rocky  land,  and  succeeds  equally 
well  on  poor  and  on  rich  soils.  Tea  was  first  introduced  to  Europe  in  1610,  and 
was  then  only  used  for  m.edicinal  purposes.  It  has  now  become  almost  a  staff 
of  life.  From  1717  to  1726.  only  seven  hundred  thousand  pounds  were  annually 
imported  into  Great  Britain.  The  import  of  the  article  now,  1821,  exceeds  each 
year  twenty  millions,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Thus  the  soil  of  China,  and 
the  industry  of  her  people,  is  more  productive  to  the  nation  than  the  mountains 
of  gold  and  silver  of  South  America  are  to  Spain.  The  successful  agriculture  of 
China  renders  Europe  and  America  tributary  to  her.  Why  should  not  the  agri- 
cultural societies  of  the  South  turn  their  attention  to  this  subject  1 


62  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REYOLUTION  ; 


CHAPTER     V. 

Rice — Cotton — Whitefield — Ogeechee  River — Planter's  Residence — 
Slaves — Face  of  the  Country— Products — Health — Woods  on  Fire- 
Charleston — Fort  Moultrie — Females — Departure — Sergeant  Jasper 
— Night  Adventure — Negro  Sale — Tarborough — Halifax — Roanoke 
River — Horned  Snake — Blazed  Trees — James  River. 

The  culture  of  rice  and  the  process  of  preparing  it  for  mar- 
ket are  deeply  interesting.  Near  the  1st  of  April  it  is  sown  in 
rows,  about  three  feet  apart,  and  by  the  1st  of  June  it  be- 
comes from  six  to  eight  inches  high.  The  weeds  are  then 
taken  out,  and  water  admitted  by  means  of  sluices,  from  some 
adjacent  stream.  The  water  is  occasionally  drawn  off,  and  a 
fresh  supply  introduced.  When  in  blossom,  the  rice  presents 
a  most  beautiful  appearance,  the  flowers  seeming  to  float  on 
the  surface  of  the  water,  and  perfuming  the  air  with  a  most 
delicious  fragrance.  In  September,  when  the  waving  harvest 
rises  considerably  above  the  water,  it  is  said  to  exhibit  a  curi- 
ous and  very  rich  aspect.  After  the  grain  is  ripe,  and  the 
water  drawn  off,  the  rice  is  reaped  and  stacked  in  the  manner 
of  wheat.  After  threshing,  it  is  pounded  in  mortars,  ten  or 
twelve  in  a  row,  each  containing  about  half  a  peck.  The 
pounders  are  lifted  by  a  simple  machinery,  with  the  application 
of  horse-power.  After  this  process,  it  is  sifted  and  cleansed 
for  packing.  When  I  considered  the  vast  expense  of  preparing 
the  swamps  for  the  cultivation  of  rice,  and  stocking  the  planta- 
tions with  negroes,  together  with  the  cheapness  of  the  article, 
I  have  been  astonished  at  the  large  fortunes  which  have  been 
realized  from  the  cultivation  of  this  commodity.  An  acre  of 
rich  swamp-land  adapted  to  the  rice  culture,  will  produce 
twenty-five  casks  of  five  hundred  pounds  each.  The  Georgia 
rice  is  confessedly  the  best,  it  being  larger  than  that  produced 


OK,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  53 

in  the  Carolinas.  The  indigo  of  the  latter  is,  however,  de- 
cidedly superior  to  that  of  Georgia. 

Cotton,  as  I  have  already  observed,  was  then  beginning  to 
be  cultivated  for  domestic  purposes,  as  we  raise  flax  and  wool 
in  New  England.* 

We  decided  to  attempt  the  prosecution  of  our  tour  into  East 
Florida.  Previous  to  this,  our  curiosity  induced  us  to  make  an 
excursion  to  the  celebrated  Orphan  House,  established  by 
Whitefield.  He  passed  and  repassed  the  Atlantic  repeatedly, 
traversing  the  extent  of  the  colonies  like  a  flaming  meteor, 
constantly  soliciting  charity,  as  well  in  Europe  as  America, 
for  this  object,  by  the  most  energetic  strains  of  the  most  power- 
ful eloquence,  touching  alike  the  heads  and  pockets  of  his  de- 
lighted audiences,  f 

The  avowed  object  of  the  collecting  of  these  funds,  was  the 
establishment  of  an  asylurti  for  the  numerous  orphan  children 
of  the  early  adventurers  to  Georgia,  who  fell  victims,  and  in 
impoverished  circumstances,  to  the  ravages  of  the  climate. 
Their  forlorn  condition  called  forth  the  sympathy,  and  secured 
the  patronage  of  Whi'tefield. 

We  travelled  twelve  miles  through  a  succession  of  fine  plan- 
tations, and  were  politely  received  by  Mr.  Piercy,  an  Episco- 
palian clergyman,  who  was  left  in  charge  of  the  property  by 
Mr.  Whitefield.  The  occurrence  of  the  war,  and  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  centre  building  (which  left  only  the  two  wings 
standing)  have  frustrated  the  design^f  the  founder. 

Mr.  Piercy  showed  us  an  elegant  painting  of  the  Countess 
of  Huntington,  the  friend  of  Whitefield  and  patroness  of  this  in- 
stitution. We  found  the  family  of  Mr.  Piercy  highly  refined 
and  intelligent,  and  enjoyed  their  kind  hospitality  with  much 
interest.     Meeting  people  of  their  cultivation  and  delicacy  in 

*  The  sea  island  cotton,  I  have  been  informed  recently,  (1821)  by  a  respecta- 
ble planter,  was  only  introduced  within  the  present  century.  The  compass  of  a 
note  will  not  authorize  a  view  of  the  interesting  history  of  the  cotton  culture 
since  1778,  now,  by  far,  the  most  valuable  staple  of  America.  The  average  of 
cotton  exported  in  1817,-18  and '19,  was  88,705,8.'^0  lbs.,  and  its  average  value 
$25,014,410. 

t  See  Dr.  Franklin's  account  of  his  experience. 


54  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION 


this  remote  and  solitary  abode,  was  the  source  to  us  of  equal 
surprise  and  gratification.  The  religious  duties  of  the  evening 
were  performed  with  great  solemnity  and  impressiveness.  At 
the  ringing  of  a  small  bell,  the  negroes,  with  their  children,  all 
came  in  to  unite  with  the  family  in  their  devotions. 

Mentioning  our  purpose  of  visiting  Florida  to  Mr.  Piercy, 
he  dissuaded  us  from  it,  stating  that  it  was  not  only  in  the  oc- 
cupation of  the  English,  but  that  we  should  also  be  exposed 
to  the  attack  of  hostile  Indians,  who  were  hovering  about  the 
borders.  However  ardent  our  desire  to  advance  still  farther 
towards  the  South  would  have  been  under  other  circumstan- 
ces, we,  at  length,  concluded  to  limit  our  journey  to  the  river 
Ogeechee.  Mr.  Piercy's  brother  accompanied  us  on  the  expe- 
dition. After  traversing  a  pine  barren  the  greater  part  of  the 
distance,  we  reached  the  river,  which  is  about  a  mile  wide, 
mantled  on  the  opposite  side  by  extensive  forests. 

Having  travelled  about  fifteen  hundred  miles  from  North  to 
South,  it  was  with  delight  that  I  turned  to  the  right  about  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ogeechee,  and  once  more  faced  my  dear 
native  New-England. 

On  our  return  we  deviated  from  our  route  to  visit  a  wealthy 
planter,  George  A.  Hall,  who  had  urgently  invited  us  to  his 
plantation.  We  turned  from  our  direct  road  into  a  muddy 
avenue,  two  miles  in  length,  cut  through  the  forest.  At  its 
termination,  we  found  ourselves  in  an  open  space,  occupied  by 
a  miniature  palace,  elegant  in  its  exterior,  and  embellished  by 
the  most  refined  taste,  in  the  midst  of  a  noble  plantation,  and 
surrounded  by  a  little  village  of  negro  huts.  Everything  in 
and  about  the  house  announced  wealth  and  elegance.  A 
highly  ornamented  flower-garden  I  saw  blooming  on  the  16th 
of  February,  in  all  the  glory  and  beauty  of  spring  in  New- 
England.  In  wandering  over  the  grounds,  we  observed  a 
large  collection  of  negroes,  seated  upon  rice  straw,  making  a 
miserable  meal  upon  boiled  rice  and  pure  water.  It  is  truly 
astonishing  how  the  slave  can  sustain  life  with  this  wretched 
pittance,  and  even  appear  in  good  health  and  condition,  com- 
pelled to  labor  from  dawn  to  night,  through  the  long  summer 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  65 

days,  under  the  scorching  rays  of  the  intense  sun,  with  no 
shelter  for  his  head,  and  in  most  instances  his  black  and  oily 
skin  exposed  to  its  full  beams  ;  yet  they  seemed  joyous  and  hap- 
py. In  contemplating  the  wealth,  and  splendor,  and  magnifi- 
cence of  the  Southern  planter,  I  cannot  divest  my  mind  of  the 
idea  that  they  are  all  produced  by  the  sweat  and  blood  of  the 
slave.* 

The  face  of  the  country  in  South  Carolina  and  Georgia, 
along  the  sea-board,  and  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  inland, 
is  generally  level,  clothed  with  wood,  principally  forests  of 
pines  of  immense  size  and  height.  In  the  interior  the  country 
rises  into  waving  hills.  On  the  creeks  and  rivers  a  deep  allu- 
vial soil  prevails,  which  is  devoted  to  the  rice  plantations.  In 
the  interior,  wheat,  tobacco,  and  corn,  are  cultivated  in  great 
abundance.  This  region  is  healthy,  whilst  the  territory  bor- 
dering on  the  sea,  is  subject,  during  the  summer  and  fall 
months,  to  noxious  vapors  exhaling  from  the  low  lands. 

On  our  return  to  Charleston  we  had  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing a  scene  of  appalling,  and  yet  extreme  interest.  Trav- 
elling after  dark,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a  forest 
on  fire.  For  several  miles  the  country  was  in  a  blaze.  The 
wind  blew  fresh,  which  moved  and  agitated  the  fire,  giving  it 
the  appearance  of  a  sea  of  flames,  rolling  and  convulsed.  The 
gigantic  pines,  blazing  and  crackling,  covered  with  fire  to  their 
tops,  were  falling  with  tremendous  crashes  in  every  direction. 
We  extricated  oui^selves  with  no  small  hazard  from  the  burn- 
ing and  falling  timber. 

After  an  absence  of  nineteen  days,  occupied  in  a  most  de- 
lightful excursion,  we  returned  to  Charleston.  This  city  is 
situated  on  a  point  of  land,  at  the  confluence  of  Cooper  and 
Ashley  rivers.  Its  harbor  is  spacious,  and  might  conveniently 
contain  five  hundred  ships.     The  bar  at  the  mouth,  however, 

*  Northern  men,  in  yielding  to  the  instincts  which  revolt  at  slavery,  and  in- 
dulging in  strictures  upon  its  existence  and  atrocities,  should  contemplate  the 
fact  that  the  impulses  of  Northern  cupidity  aided  its  introduction,  by  the  agency 
of  Northern  ships  and  capital.  How  many  of  the  princely  fortunes  of  New- 
England  had  their  basis  in  the  slave  trade  !     1831. 


56  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION 


does  not  admit  of  the  passage  of  vessels  carrying  more  than  elev- 
en feet  water.  Although  this  circumstance  affords  some  protec- 
tion against  the  approach  of  an  enemy,  the  navigation  is  hazard- 
ous in  tempestuous  weather.  It  is  defended  (and  was  well  defended 
the  year  before)  by  Fort  Moultrie.  Fort  Johnson  lies  on  the  south 
side  of  the  harbor,  about  two  miles  from  the  city.  There  are 
also  three  other  forts  for  its  protection,  mounting  in  all  two 
hundred  pieces  of  cannon.  Previous  to  the  late  fire,  Charleston 
contained  one  thousand  eight  hundred  houses,  besides  its  pub- 
lic edifices.* 

In  Broad-street  is  placed  a  fine  marble  statue  of  the  great 
Pitt,  with  an  appropriate  inscription. 

Among  the  females  of  Charleston,  we  observed  many  ele- 
gant, accomplished  women,  but  generally  of  sallow  complex- 
ions, and  without  that  bloom  which  distinguishes  the  daughters 
of  the  North.  Perhaps  no  city  of  America  exhibits,  in  propor- 
tion to  its  size,  so  much  splendor  and  style  as  Charleston.  The 
rich  planters  of  the  State  live  in  almost  Asiatic  luxury,  and 
usually,  before  the  Revolution,  educated  their  sons  in  Europe. f 

On  the  8th  of  March,  1778,  we  departed  from  Charleston  on 
our  return  to  New-England.  Several  gentlemen,  with  great 
kindness  and  courtesy,  accompanied  us  to  the  ferry.  Our 
company  consisted  of  my  former  companion,  Mr.  Broomfield, 
Mr.  Gibbs,  of  Philadelphia,  and  Captain  Paul  Hussey,  of  Provi- 
dence, accompanied  by  old  Silas  and  the  dog  Watch,  both  of 

*  Before  the  Revolution  about  one  hundred  and  forty  ships  were  annually 
freighted  at  Charleston,  Georgetown,  and  Beaufort,  and  principally  at  the  former, 
with  rice,  indigo,  tobacco,  skins,  and  naval  stores ;  about  seventy  thousand  casks 
of  rice,  and  thirty  thousand  deer-skins,  were  yearly  exported.  Numerous  eviden- 
ces exist  that  the  whole  region  of  the  flat  sea-board  has,  at  some  former  period, 
escaped  from  the  dominion  of  the  ocean.  Among  these  evidences  numerous  fossil 
remains  of  marine  shells  are  everywhere  revealed. 

t  I  procured  a  passport  from  Governor  Rutledge  for  my  protection.  I  intro- 
duce a  copy  from  the  original,  which  I  still  retain  as  an  interesting  memorial  of 
those  times  of  trial  and  suspicion  : 

"  Mr.  Elkanah  Watson  is  permitted  to  go  from  hence  to  Pennsylvania. 
To  J.  Rutledge. 

all  whom  it  may  concern.  Charleston,  So.  Carolina, 

March,  1778." 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  57 

whom  were  with  us  in  our  Georgia  expedition.  Hussey  we 
found  a  jovial,  excellent  companion,  always  unfortunate,  but 
always  cheerful,  full  of  humor  and  of  story,  which  he  had  col- 
lected from  most  extensive  reading,  and  garnered  up  in  a  re- 
tentive memory.  He  always  had  a  laugh  in  his  squint  eye, 
and  a  good  story  upon  his  lips.  He  named  his  horse  (an 
animal  as  unique  as  his  master)  De  Casto.  Hussey 's  excel- 
lent wit  and  knowledge  of  the  world,  always  secured  us  good 
fare.* 

From  the  ferry  we  proceeded  to  Sullivan's  island,  to  view 
Fort  Moultrie.  Here  Sir  Peter  Parker  was  killed,  in  June, 
1776,  and  his  fleet  disgracefully  defeated,  with  the  loss  of  a 
frigate,  by  raw  and  hastily-collected  troops.  The  fort  is  con- 
structed of  palmetto  wood,  a  timber  very  similar  to  cork  in 
some  of  its  properties.  Balls  could  not  effectually  penetrate  it. 
The  fort  was  then  defended  by  four  hundred  and  fifty  troops, 
and  mounted  sixty-five  guns.  During  the  attack  upon  it,  Ser- 
geant Jasper  performed  an  heroic  exploit,  that  will  consign  his 
name  to  posterity.  In  the  heat  of  the  engagement  the 
American  flag- staff  was  shot  away  ;  Jasper  leaped  over  the  en- 
trenchment, and  amid  the  most  tremendous  fire,  restored  it  to 
its  place. 

We  were  overtaken  by  Hussey  at  the  ferry-house  near  Wil- 
mington, he  having  been  detained   at  Georgetown.     Pie  came 
in  early  in  the  morning,  covered  with  mud,  and  jaded  out  with 
fatigue,   giving  us    a   most  piteous   account    of  his  trials  the 
night  previous.     Eager  to  overtake  us,  he  had  pressed  forward 
through  the  pine  wilderness  in  the  region  of  Lockwood's  Folly, 
and  when  night  overtook  him,  he  fell  into  a  by-path,  became 
bewildered   among  swamps,  and  at  length  totally  lost.      His 
horse  failed,  exhausted  by  hard  travelling  without  food.     For- 
tunately for  Hussey,  he  carried  flint  and  steel,  and  thus  lighted 
a  fire.     He  spent  the  night  in  fighting  wolves,  attracted  by  the 
light  from  the  wilds,  with  pitch-pine  flaming  brands.     At  day- 
light he  ascended  a  tall  sapling,  as  he  termed  it,  "  to  look  out 
for  land,"  and  saw  Wilmington  and  the  ferry-house  not  far  off. 

*  He  was  shipwrecked  and  drowned  some  years  after  on  the  coast  of  France. 


58 


Whilst  at  Wilmington,  I  witnessed  a  heart-rending  spectacle, 
the  sale  of  a  negro  family  under  the  sheriff's  hammer.  They 
were  driven  in  from  the  country,  like  swine  for  market.  A 
poor  wench  clung  to  a  little  daughter,  and  implored,  with  the 
most  agonizing  supplication,  that  they  might  not  be  separated. 
But  alas,  either  the  master  or  circumstances  were  inexorable — 
they  were  sold  to  different  purchasers.  The  husband  and 
residue  of  the  family  were  knocked  .off  to  the  highest  bidder. 

Between  Wilmington  and  Tarborough  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try gradually  changes,  presenting  more  undulating  land,  and 
frequent  brooks  rippling  across  the  road.  It  abounds  in  luxu- 
riant peach  orchards.  During  our  journey,  we  were  overtaken 
by  a  dark,  stormy  evening,  and  were  compelled  to  take  posses- 
sion of  a  deserted  log  hut,  where  we  soon  kindled  a  fire,  and 
encamped  on  the  floor  for  the  night.  Tarborough  is  a  small 
village,  situated  on  Tar  river,  and  will,  I  think,  in  time, 
become  a  place  of  consequence.  The  country  around  it  is 
healthy  and  elevated,  and  much  appropriated  to  the  tobacco 
culture. 

Halifax  is  on  the  Roanoke  river,  which,  rising  beyond  the 
Blue  Ridge,  leaves  Virginia  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from  this 
place,  and  discharges  itself  into  Albemarle  Sound  at  Plymouth, 
a  point  sixty  miles  distant.  The  borders  of  this  river  are  es- 
teemed the  wealthiest  region  of  North  Carolina.  Its  soil  is  rich 
and  highly  cultivated,  producing  corn,  peas,  and  tobacco,  in  im- 
mense quantities,  and  also  some  rice.  We  noticed  vast  droves 
of  hogs  ranging  among  these  plantations.  A  Mr.  Hall,  a  planter 
in  this  vicinity,  produces,  it  was  stated,  annually,  three  thou- 
sand barrels  of  corn,  and  four  thousand  bushels  of  peas.  Many 
elegant  seats  are  situated  on  the  margin  of  the  Roanoke, 
although  the  district  is  esteemed  unhealthy.  Halifax  contains 
about  forty-five  dwellings,  occupying  one  wide  street,  and  as- 
cending to  a  high  sand-bluff.  The  society  in  this  vicinity  is 
considered  among  the  most  polished  and  cultivated  in  the 
State. 

On  our  way  from  Halifax  to  Williamsburgh,  Hussey's  curi- 
osity exposed  him  to  imminent  danger.     The  creeks  through 


59 


this  territory  are  infested  by  a  most  venomous  reptile — the 
horned  snake — whose  sting  is  death.  In  passing  a  swamp  we 
noticed  one  of  them,  coiled  up  in  a  position  that  made  us  sup- 
pose it  dead.  Hussey  dismounted  to  examine  it  minutely. 
The  moment  his  whip  touched  it,  the  snake  coiled  itself  in  an 
attitude  of  attack,  its  head  horribly  flattened,  its  eyes  sparkling 
fire,  its  execrable  tongue  darting  out  of  its  mouth.  After  the 
danger  was  over,  we  laughed  heartily  at  Hussey's  fright  and 
discomfiture.  This  snake  has  sharp,  fine  teeth,  but  its  subtle 
venom  is  embedded  in  a  horn,  tapering  to  a  fine  point,  at  the 
end  of  the  tail,  whence  it  is  ejected.  I  was  told  that  the 
poison  was  fatal  to  a  tree,  if  it  is  stung  by  the  snake  when  the 
sap  is  ascending. 

A  method  prevails  in  this  country  of  blazing  the  trees  at  cer- 
tain distances,  which  furnishes  a  guide  to  the  traveller,  even 
in  the  ordinary  obscurity  of  night.  This  is  produced  by 
simply  slashing  a  strip  of  bark  from  two  opposite  sides  of  a 
tree.  The  white  spots  thus  formed,  may  be  seen  for  a  great 
distance  in  an  open  forest.  We  remarked  the  country 
towards  James  river  to  be  thinly  settled,  and  generally 
clothed  with  forests.  We  again  crossed  this  river  in  a 
small  boat,  wdth  a  stupid  negro  ferryman.  James  river 
is  a  most  majestic  stream,  second  in  importance  only  to 
the  Hudson,  Delaware,  and  Potomac.  It  receives  in  its  course 
seven  large  confluents.  It  is  stated,  that  before  the  Revolution 
its  commerce  embraced  the  exportation  of  thirty  thousand 
hogsheads  of  tobacco. 


60  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   KEVOLUTION  ; 


CHAPTER     VI. 

Hanover  Court-IIouse — Election — Manners— Fight — Alexandria — Poto- 
mac— Inland  Navigation — Slavery — Washington  City — Baltimore — 
Pennsylvania — Contrast — Pennsylvania  Farmer — Valley  Forge — 
Bethlehem — Moravian  Ceremony — Continental  Troops — Small-Pox 
— General  Eeflections. 

In  passing  Hanover  Court-House,  Virginia,  we  found  the 
whole  county  assembled  at  an  election.  The  moment  I  alight- 
ed, a  wretched  pug-nosed  fellow  assailed  me  to  swap  watches. 
I  had  hardly  shaken  him  ofl',  when  I  was  attacked  by  a  wild 
Irishman,  who  insisted  on  my  "  swapping  horses  "  with  him, 
and  in  a  twinkling  ran  up  the  pedigree  of  his  horse  to  the 
grand  dam.  Treating  his  importunity  with  little  respect,  I 
became  near  being  involved  in  a  boxing-match,  the  Irishman 
swearing  that  I  did  not  "  trate  him  like  a  jintleman."  I  had 
hardly  escaped  this  dilemma  when  my  attention  was  attracted 
by  a  fight  between  two  very  unwieldy,  fat  men,  foaming  and 
pufRng  like  two  furies,  until  one  succeeding  in  twisting  a  fore- 
finger in  aside-lock  of  the  other's  hair,  and  in  the  act  of  thrusting, 
by  this  purchase,  his  thumb  into  the  latter's  eye,  he  bawled  out 
"  king's  cruse,"  equivalent,  in  technical  language,  to  "enough.'' 

From  Fredericksburgh  to  Alexandria,  we  found  frightful  bad 
roads.  The  latter  place  is  situated  on  the  Potomac,  on 
an  elevated  plain  overlooking  the  river.  Its  streets  are  laid 
out  after  the  plan  of  Philadelphia,  and  upon  a  large  scale  in  the 
anticipation  of  a  great  city.  Considering  its  peculiar  advanta- 
ges of  position,  at  the  head  of  the  bold  navigation  of  one  of 
the  noblest  rivers  of  the  world,  I  see  nothing  to  prevent  their 
anticipations  being  fully  realized.  The  Potomac  is  sur- 
passed only  by  the  Hudson  in  magnificence  and  utility.  It 
rises  far  west,  near  the  sources  of  the  Monongahela.  A  com- 
munication is  therefore  practicable  between  the  waters  of  the 
Ohio  and  the  Potomac.  I  understood  that  the  latter,  with  the  aid 


61 


of  locks  to  pass  three  falls,  may  be  made  navigable  for  large 
boats  to  Fort  Cumberland,  two  hundred  miles  west  of  Alexan- 
dria. It  is  ten  miles  wide  at  its  mouth.  Ten  miles  below  this 
city,  its  majestic  flood  laves  Mount  Vernon,  the  sequestered 
seat  of  the  immortal  Washington. 

The  influence  of  slavery  upon  southern  habits  is  peculiarly 
exhibited  in  the  prevailing  indolence  of  the  people.  It  would 
almost  seem  as  if  the  poor  white  man  had  rather  starve  than 
work,  because  the  negro  works. 

On  the  10th  of  April  we  reached  Baltimore.  After  leaving 
Alexandria,  we  crossed  the  Potomac  near  Mason's  island'^'*  to 
Georgetown.  This  place  contains  about  twenty-five  good 
stone  houses,  erected  on  the  side  of  a  hill.  After  leaving 
Georgetown,  we  abandoned,  by  mistake,  the  main  road,  and 
soon  becoming  entangled  among  plantations  and  by-roads, 
spent  several  hours  before  we  recovered  our  route. f  Near 
Elk  Ridge  we  observed  several  iron  works,  and  also  a  cannon 
foundry.  Baltimore  is  situated  on  the  Patapsco,  and  contains 
about  six  thousand  inhabitants.  The  harbor  foims  a  basin, 
around  which  the  city  is  built.  Heavy  vessels  load,  and  dis- 
charge at  Fell's  Point,  which  is  itself  a  small  city.  An  immense 
iron  chain  is  stretched  across  the  harbor,  for  the  protection  of 
the  town,  which  is  defended  by  Fort  McHenry,  mounting  sixty 
guns.  A  strong  commercial  rivalry  will,  it  is  supposed,  soon 
spring  up  between  Baltimore  and  Alexandria.  It  appears 
probable  that  the  peculiarly  favorable  position  of  Alexandria 
will  secure  to  that  city  the  f>re-eminence.  We  crossed  the 
Susquehannah  river  near  its  mouth.  This  river  rises  from  sev- 
eral sources  in  New-York,  and  after  traversing  Pennsylvania, 
discharges  itself  into  the  Chesapeake.  It  is  shallow  throughout 
its  whole  extent,  and  has  not  afforded  any  position  for  a  city. 

On  the  14th  of  April  we  again  entered  the  State  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  travelled  the  wdiole  day  through  a  delightful  coun- 
try, richly  improved  by  the  industry  of  its  Dutch  and  German 

*  The  present  delightful  residence  of  the  excellent  Gen.  John  Mason.     1821. 
t  The  scene  of  these  wanderinfrs  was  undoubtedly  the  locality  now  occupied 
by  the  city  of  Washington.     1821. 


62 


population.  Our  road  lay  along  the  heights  of  undulating 
hills,  which  stretched  from  the  Susquehannah  to  the  Schuylkill. 
Another  range  runs  parallel  to  this  chain.  The  valley  between, 
and  most  of  the  slopes  of  the  hill-sides  are  laid  out  into  regular 
farms,  and  are  under  high  cultivation.  The  verdure  of  the 
fields,  and  the  neatness  and  superior  tillage  of  the  farms  in  the 
rich  vales,  were  so  grateful  to  the  eye,  alter  being  long  accus- 
tomed to  southern  aspects,  as  to  make  us  almost  insensible  to 
the  bad  roads  we  were  traversing.  The  contrast,  so  obvious 
and  so  strong,  in  the  appearance  of  these  farms  and  of  the 
southern  plantations,  will  strike  every  observer,  and  can  be  im- 
puted to  but  one  cause.  Here  we  witness  the  impulses  and  re- 
sults of  honest  industry,  where  freemen  labor  for  themselves. 
There  we  see  the  feeble  efforts  of  coerced  labor,  performed  by 
the  enervated  slave,  uninspired  by  personal  interest,  and  unim- 
pelled  by  a  worthy  ambition.  These  distinctions  are  percepti- 
ble even  between  Maryland  and  Pennsylvania,  separated  only 
by  an  imaginary  line. 

On  our  journey  to  Valley  Forge,  a  heavy  storm,  and  roads 
almost  impassable,  compelled  us  to  seek  shelter  at  the  house  of 
an  opulent  farmer.  Here  we  were  received  with  the  kindest 
hospitality,  and  found  our  host  an  intelligent,  sensible  man. 
He  had  a  fine  library,  and  was  well  informed  on  most  subjects. 
His  house  was  spacious  and  neat,  and  well  supplied  with  the 
comforts  and  substantials  of  life.  Independence,  wealth,  and 
contentment  were  conspicuous  in  everything,  within  and  with- 
out the  house.  This  man  was  but  a  specimen  of  his  class, — 
virtuous,  affluent,  and  intelligent  republican  freemen. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  we  reached  Washington's 
camp  at  Valley  Forge,  situated  on  the  heights  of  the  Schuyl- 
kill. Here  I  met  friends  and  relatives  from  New-England. 
The  army  continues  yet  in  winter-quarters,  the  fourth  campaign 
being  at  hand.  God  grant  that  it  may  be  as  fortunate  as  the  last  I 
I  spent  a  day  in  the  camp,  attending  the  reviews  and  examin- 
ing the  condition  and  situation  of  the  army.  My  heart  bled  at 
the  recital  of  their  sufferings  and  privations  the  past  winter. 
Exalted  virtue  and  patriotism,  and  the  strong  attachment  of 


63 

the  officers  to  General  Washington,  only  held  the  army- 
together.  The  poor  soldiers  were  half  naked,  and  had  been 
half  starved,  having  been  compelled,  for  weeks,  to  subsist  on 
simple  flour  alone,  and  this  too  in  a  land  almost  literally  flow- 
ing with  milk  and  honey.  Oh,  these  detestable  tories  !  I  saw 
Washington  on  horseback,  attended  by  his  aids,  passing 
through  the  camp. 

Between  Valley  Forge  and  Bethlehem  the  country  is  well 
cultivated.  The  streams  are  spanned  by  stone  arch  bridges, 
and  occupied  by  valuable  flouring-mills.  The  country  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  camp,  and  occupied  by  a  tory  population,  was 
in  a  disorganized  condition.  The  roads,  infested  by  maraud- 
ers, rendered  travelling  dangerous.  Arriving  at  our  stopping- 
place  for  the  night,  we  found  it  crowded  with  soldiers  and 
wagoners,  and  a  perfect  Babel.  We  hired  a  soldier  to  guard 
our  horses,  and  I  fortunately  secured  a  berth  for  the  night 
between  two  drunken  wagoners. 

I  again  visited  Bethlehem,  and  we  remained  a  day  to  wit- 
ness an  interesting  Moravian  religious  ceremony,  Avhich  was 
to  commence  before  the  next  mornina;.  Soon  after  midnight 
Hussey  gave  me  a  jog.  I  heard  the  distant  music  of  a  band. 
The  night  was  dark  and  serene,  and  all  nature  was  hushed  in 
silence.  We  dressed  and  repaired  to  the  Moravian  Chapel. 
The  men  entered  by  one  door,  at  the  same  moment  the  sisters 
w^ere  ushered  in  at  the  other,  marching  two  and  two,  and  pre- 
senting a  ghastly  appearance,  with  their  peculiar  dress  and 
light  white  caps.  As  they  entered,  the  music  continued  to 
sound.  A  priest  then  ascended  the  pulpit,  made  a  short  prayer 
in  German,  which  was  followed  by  an  anthem.  The  Mora- 
vians then  formed  a  procession,  the  men  in  advance,  and  the 
spectators  following  the  females  ;  all  marching  in  the  dark  to 
the  solemn  and  slow  music  of  the  band,  performing  a  dead 
march. 

In  this  manner  we  proceeded  to  their  burial-ground, 
where  the  whole  formed  a  square,  facing  inwards,  with  the 
band  in  the  centre.  This  cemetery  forms  an  area  of  about  two 
acres.  The  graves  are  elevated  about  eight  inches.  On  the 
centre  of  each  is  placed  a  flat  stone  about  eighteen  inches 


64  MEN"  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION-  ; 

square,  upon  which  is  inscribed  a  brief  epitaph.     A  calm,  im- 
pressive silence  prevailed,  until  the  first  appearance  of  the  sun. 
Then  all  was  bustle  and  commotion.     The  musicians  marched 
along  the  spacious  alleys,  playing  a  funeral  dirge.     The  priest 
was  occupied  in  reading,  in  an  audible  voice,  the  inscription 
on  the  stone,  now  commenting,  and  now  praying,  the  eyes  of 
all  being  turned  the  while,  devoutly  raised  to  heaven.     The 
whole  ceremony  concluded  with  a  prayer,  and  the  Moravians 
again  formed  a  procession,  and  returned  to  the  Chapel.     This 
ceremony,  I  understood,  was  commemorative  of  the  resurrec- 
tion  of   the   Saviour.      The  whole   spectacle  was  eminently 
solemn  and  imposing.     Our  curiosity  gratified,  we  left  Bethle- 
hem, and   crossing   the   Delaware   at   Easton,  entered  New- 
Jersey.     We  met,  in  our  progress  through  New- Jersey,  Col. 
Van  Schaick's  regiment  of  the  New-York  line,*  and  numerous 
bodies  of  troops  on  their  march  to  Valley  Forge.     The  coun- 
try was  badly  cultivated,  and  thinly  settled,  and  very  much 
exhausted  by  the   constant  passage  of  troops.     Our  fare  was 
very  indifferent ;  one  night  we  spent  in  a  house,  without  food, 
and  were  obliged  to  sleep  in  a  garret  upon  a  pile  of  oats,  with 
no  covering  but  our  clothes.     In  this  house  I  noticed  a  woman 
sitting  by  a  roaring  fire,  wrapped  up  in  blankets,  "  to  sweat  out 
the  small-pox,"    as  they  said.     Her  face  exhibited  the   most 
frightful  deformity  ;  what  was  once  "  the  human  face  divine," 
was    now    a    loathsome    mass    of    disease   and  putrescence. 
Having  been  inoculated  myself,  two  years  before,  at  the  dead 
of  winter,  in  an  open  barrack,  and  not  permitted  to  approach  a 
fire,  I  prevailed  on  these  ignorant  people  to   remove  her  from 
the  fire  and  withdraw  the  blankets. 

I  reached  Providence  29tQ  of  April,  1778,  after  an  absence 
of  about  eight  months,  having  traversed  ten  States,  and  travel- 
led nearly  two  thousand  seven  hundred  miles. 

*  The  organization  of  the  Revolutionary  army  into  lines  of  the  different 
States,  tended  greatly  to  animate  and  foster  that  spirit  of  local  feeling  and  State 
jealousies,  which  so  much  obstructed  the  progress  of  the  Revolution.  Wash- 
ington felt  and  appreciated  the  evil,  but  the  existing  form  of  government  was 
unable  to  correct  it. 


65 


Having,  in  this  protracted  tour,  just  completed  throughout 
the  extensive  sea-board  of  the  United  States,  devoted  my  daily 
attention  to  inquiries  and  a  personal  examination,  and  having 
habitually  committed  the  result  of  my  observations  to  my 
journal,  whilst  fresh  in  my  mind,  I  can  now  take  a  general 
retrospect  of  the  whole  subject,  and  exhibit  the  impressions  I 
have  received. 

"  When  the  extent  of  America  is  duly  considered,  boldly 
fronting  the  Old  World,  blessed  wath  every  climate,  capable  of 
every  production,  abounding  with  the  best  harbors  and  rivers 
on  the  globe,  overspread  by  three  millions  of  souls,  mostly  of 
English  descent,  inheriting  all  their  ancient  enthusiasm  for  lib- 
erty, and  enterprising,  almost  to  a  fault,  what  may  not  be 
expected  from  such  a  people,  in  such  a  country,  and  doubling 
in  population  every  twenty-five  years. 

The  partial  hand  of  nature  has  laid  out  America  on  a  much 
larger  scale  than  any  other  country.  What  are  called  moun- 
tains  in  Europe  are  hills  in  America  ;  rivers,  brooks,  trees, 
bushes,  and  lakes,  are  reduced  to  ponds.  In  short,  the  map  of 
the  world  presents  to  view  no  country  which  combines  so 
many  natural  advantages,  so  pleasantly  diversified,  and  which 
offers  to  agriculture,  manufactures,  and  commerce,  so  many 
resources ;  all  of  which  cannot  fail  to  conduct  America  to  the 
first  rank  among  nations.  This  I  prophecy.  It  must  be  so. 
In  contemplating  future  America,  the  mind  is  lost  in  the  din  of 
cities,  in  harbors,  and  rivers,  crowded  with  sails,  and  in  the  im- 
mensity of  its  population."* 

Taking  three  millions,  the  number  at  this  time,  as  a  basis, 
and  admitting  our  population  to  double  each  twenty-three 
years,  the  result  in  a  hundred  years  will  be  sixty-two  mil- 
lions of  repubhcan  freemen,  approaching  one  hundred  millions, 

*  The  above  paragraph,  marked  as  a  quotation,  was  first  published  in  Morse's 
Geography,  in  1789,  as  an  extract  from  my  Journal,  and  after  being  republished 
in  other  works,  in  1829  I  read  it  in  Dr.  Hosack's  Memoir  of  De  Witt  Clinton, 
extracted  from  "  Tatham  on  Inland  Navigation,"  an  English  work,  where  it  ap- 
peared as  original.     I  notice  the  fact  as  an  evidence  of  unjust  plagiarism. 

5 


66  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEYOLUTION  ; 

in  the  year  A.  D.  1900,  which  will  be  nearly  equal  to  that  of 
all  Europe  at  the  present  day. 

The  sagacious  statesmen  of  Europe  realize  these  truths,  and 
already  dread  the  influence  that  the  greatness  and  prosperity  of 
America  is  destined  to  exercise  upon  the  world.  The  Euro- 
pean possessions  in  the  West  India  Islands  will  pass  away  like 
a  cloud,  and  will  be  held  as  appendages  to  the  American  Re- 
public, or  will  be  emancipated,  and  independent  governments 
themselves. 

Though  European  politicians  may  consider  these  events  too 
remote  to  aflbct  any  portion  of  the  present  generation  of  men, 
still  they  will  obstruct  our  progress  by  every  means  in  their 
power.  Their  efforts  will  be  as  vain  as  presumptuous,  and  they 
will  prove  as  powerless  as  an  attempt  to  check  the  flowing  of 
the  tide.  Their  schemes  will,  in  fact,  be  an  effort  to  arrest  the 
decrees  of  the  Almighty,  who  has  evidently  raised  up  this  na- 
tion to  become  a  lamp  to  guide  degraded  and  oppressed  hu- 
manity, and  to  direct  other  nations,  even  the  nation  of  our 
oppressors,  to  liberty  and  happiness. 


67 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Rhode  Island— Newport— Providence— riymouth— Boston— Marblehead 
—Salem New-Hampshire Lexington Climate— General  Re- 
marks—Painful  Scene— Mrs.  Rennals— Siege  of  Newport— John 
Hancock— James  Otis— Count  D'Estaing— Gen.  Sullivan— Battle- 
Determine  to  go  to  France— Packet  Mercury— Henry  Laurens. 

On  my  return  to  Rhode  Island,  the  British  forces  were  in 
the  occupation  of  A^ewport,  and  the  commerce  of  Providence 
was  still  obstructed  and  paralyzed  by  the  operations  of  the  war. 
Uneasy  and  restive  in  my  unemployed  situation,  I  still  retained 
my  travelling  propensity,  and  visited  during  this  time  various 
sections  of  the  State  of  Rhode  Island. 

After  all  my  wanderings  and  observation  of  other  parts  of 
the  Confederacy,  I  still  look  upon  Rhode  Island  as  one  of  the 
most  delightful  and  interesting  of  the  States.  The  year  before 
the  Revolution,  it  contained  nearly  sixty'  thousand  souls.  It 
produced  butter,  beef,  lumber,  horses,  pot  and  pearl  ashes,  and 
two  hundred  thousand  pounds  of  inferior  tobacco. 

Narraganset  Bay,  formed  by  Rhode  Island  on  one  side,  and 
the  fertile  shores  of  Narraganset  upon  the  other,  and  studded 
with  numerous  lovely  islands,  presents  the  most  delightful  sce- 
nery. 

Newport  is  beautifully  situated,  and  was  a  favorite  resort  of 
Southern  people,  on  account  of  its  cool  and  salubrious  position. 
It  had  been  one  of  the  most  commercial  places  in  America,  but 
was  then  falling  into  decay.  Its  fortunes  were  waning  before 
the  superior  activity  and  enterprise  of  its  rival.  Providence. 

This  city  had,  within  forty  years,  emerged  from  the  obscurity 
of  an  inconsiderable  village  into  a  great  trading  mart,  that  em- 
braced a  body  of  perhaps  the  most  intelligent  merchants  on  the 
continent.  It  contained  at  this  time,  about  five  thousand  in- 
habitants. 

I  proceeded  from  Providence  to  Plymouth.     Before  entering 


68  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTION  ; 

my  native  place,  I  passed,  for  about  four  miles,  through  a  pine 
wood,  along  a  sandy  road,— but  how  different  from  the  pine 
forests  of  North  Carolina.  There,  free  from  underwood,  the 
trees,  straight  and  majestic,  stretch  towards  the  sky.  Here 
they  are  low  and  scrubbed,  and  matted  together  by  briars  and 
bushes.  Yet,  amid  the  dreary  forests,  clustered  a  thousand  de- 
lightful associations  of  my  boyhood. 

°I  spent  a  few  happy  days  (the  happiest  of  my  hfe)  among 
my  relatives,  and  in  rambling  alone  about  the  vicinity  of  Ply- 
mouth. Every  tree,  rock,  bush,  and  even  the  ^and-hills,  re- 
minded me  of  some  youthful  gambol.  The  visit  to  the  house 
and  the  room  of  my  nativity,  which  was  in  the  hands  of  stran- 
gers, my  father's  garden,  the  spring  bubbling  up  its  pure  crys- 
tal water,  all  affected  me,  even  to  tears.  Here  too,  alone,  I 
visited  the  grave  of  my  sainted  mother. 

Plymouth  is  overlooked  by  a  high  hill,  commanding  a  wide 
view  of  the  ocean.  When  a  boy,  I  recollect  seeing  from  this 
hill  a  British  fleet,  containing  three  regiments  of  troops,  on 
their  way  to  Boston,  to  overawe  and  coerce  her  rebellious 
spirit. 

I  proceeded  by  sea  to  Boston.  It  was  then  among  the  first 
class  of  American  towns,  containing  about  twenty-five  thousand 
population,  and  is  situated  on  a  peninsula,  at  the  foot  of  a  spa- 
cious harbor,  defended  from  the  sea  by  thirty-six  small  islands. 
The  streets  were  irregular,  badly  paved,  without  side-walks, 
•  and  descending  towards  the  centre.  The  prospect  from  the 
beacon  at  the  back  of  the  town  is  very  fine,  embracing  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  ocean,  the  harbor  and  the  interior.  Bos- 
ton is  two  miles  long  and  a  half  mile  broad.  The  "  Long 
Wharf"  is  probably  the  finest  quay  in  America,  extending  half 
a  mile  into  the  harbor,  with  a  line  of  warehouses  and  stores 
upon  each  side. 

Marblehead  is  singularly  laid  out  amidst  rocks.  It  is  cele- 
brated for  its  fish  trade,  the  school  of  a  hardy  and  courageous 
race  of  seamen. 

Salem,  once  the  seat  of  the  detestable  witch  excitement,  was 
at  this  time  a  place  of  important  commercial  business,  and 


OK,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  69 

contained  about  four  hundred  dwelling-houses.  The  mer- 
chants are  wealthy  and  enterprising,  and  have  embarked 
spiritedly  in  privateering.  Advancing  northward,  I  crossed 
the  Merrimack  river  at  Dracut,  and  entered  the  State  of  New- 
Hampshire. 

On  my  return  to  Boston,  I  stopped  at  Lexington,  where  the 
tragic  ball  opened  on  April  19th,  1775,  and  traversed,  with  no 
ordinary  emotion,  the  route  the  British  pursued  in  their  re- 
treat., 

I  visited  the  old  brick  college  at  Cambridge,  the  most  ancient 
literary  institution  of  America,  and  from  which  the  rays  of 
science  have  been  widely  spread  throughout  New-England. 
I  stood  upon  Bunker  Hill,  an  hour,  wrapt  in  meditation  upon 
the  amazing  event  of  which  it  had  been  so  recently  the  theatre. 
My  mind's  eye  witnessed  the  British  veterans  twice  repulsed 
by  the  sons  of  the  Pilgrims,  determined  to  be  free,  and  with 
scarcely  no  weapons  but  their  fowling-pieces  ;  the  adjacent 
hills,  the  houses,  the  steeples,  the  shrouds  of  ships,  covered 
with  twenty  thousand  spectators  of  the  terrific  scene,  whose 
hearts  were  filled  with  the  most  intense  excitement  of  hopes 
and  fears.  A  spectacle  of  such  deep  and  thrilling  interest, 
America,  if  the  world,  never  before  witnessed. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  1777,  I  left  Providence,  Rhode 
Island,  on  my  Southern  expedition,  and  arrrived  at  Charleston, 
South  Carolina,  on  the  13th  of  November  ensuing  ;  thus,  in 
a  journey  of  seventy  days,  receding  from  a  Northern  climate, 
in  the  most  pleasant  season  of  the  year,  and  enjoying  through 
the  whole  journey  an  equal  and  delightful  temperature. 

On  the  29th  of  January  following  I  proceeded  South  to  the 
Ogeechee  river,  in  Georgia,  the  extreme  Southern  point  of  my 
journey,  and  on  the  13th  of  February  after,  as  I  have  remarked, 
the  flowers  were  in  bloom  in  that  latitude,  and  the  gardens  in 
some  forwardness,  the  peas  being  in  full  blossom. 

I  left  Charleston  on  the  8th  of  March  ensuing,  and  from  that 
period  to  the  first  week  in  June,  advanced  northward,  until  I 
reached  New-Hampshire,  bearing  with  me  the  whole  distance, 
the  same  advance  of  the  season,  the  same  bloom  and  fragrance. 


70  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

The  gardens  of  New-Hampshire  were  in  the  same  state  of  ad- 
vancement as  those  which  I  had  left  in  Georgia  the  four 
nionths  previous.  What  a  commentary  upon  the  vast  magni- 
tude and  expanse  of  the  nation ! 

How  dehghtful  will  be  such  a  tour,  at  the  precise  season  in 
which  I  made  it,  when  America  shall  have  arrived  at  that 
stage  of  population  I  have  anticipated  in  a  preceding  page. 
Perhaps  no  two  nations  of  Europe  exhibit  a  greater  contrast 
in  climate,  in  customs  and  manners,  in  their  productions,  and 
the  physical  features  of  the  country,  than  the  Southern  and 
Northern  States  of  America.  Mutual  antipathies  and  prejudi- 
ces predominated  previous  to  the  Revolution,  and  we  have  had 
every  reason  to  apprehend  that,  if  not  allayed  by  wise  and 
prudent  measures,  they  would  have  resulted  in  a  dismemberment 
of  the  Confederacy. 

The  middle  States  observe  a  medium,  alike  in  climate,  in 
customs,  and  the  face  of  the  country ;  neither  so  level  and  hot 
as  the  Southern  States,  nor  so  hilly  and  cold  as  those  of  the 
North  and  East. 

The  people  of  the  Northern  section  of  the  Confederacy 
are  generally  a  hardy,  industrious,  and  frugal  race.  At  the 
South  they  are  less  energetic,  more  indolent  and  imperious, 
but  ardent,  generous,  and  hospitable.     I  speak  of  the  masses. 

The  fisheries,  commerce,  and  infant  manufactures  are  the 
sinews  of  the  North.  Rice,  tobacco,  and  indigo,  the  resources 
of  the  South. 

Eventually,  it  is  probable  that  the  North  will  supply  the 
South  with  manufactures,  and  receive  in  return,  provisions 
and  raw  materials.  All  the  elements  of  a  manufacturing  peo- 
ple are  incorporated  in  the  genius  of  New-England.  Its  cli- 
mate, the  comparative  barrenness  of  the  soil,  its  salubrity,  its 
waving  hills  and  abundant  streams,  all  point  to  its  certain  and 
inherent  destiny. 

Should  an  event  so  desirable  be  ever  realized,  and  the  re- 
spective sections  of  the  great  American  Republic  become  re- 
ciprocally dependent  upon  each  other,  with  our  immensely 
augmented  and  increasing  population,  our  vast  surplus  product 


OK,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  71 

will,  as  China  does  at  the  present  day,  make  the  precious  me- 
tals of  all  other  countries  tributary  to  our  own. 

Soon  after  my  return  from  Georgia,  I  was  painfully  involved 
in,  and  witnessed  one  of  those  events  of  domestic  trial  and 
affliction,  which  constitute  some  of  the  most  thrilling  incidents 
of  the  Revolution. 

Edward  Winslow,  a  near  relative  of  my  mother's,  had  been 
a  prominent  citizen  of  Plymouth,  and  lived  in  great  affluence 
and  unbounded  hospitality.  He  was,  previous  to  the  Revolu- 
tion, the  royal  collector  of  that  district,  and  an  ardent  and  zeal- 
ous royalist.  His  son  Edward  inherited  his  virtues  and  his 
political  sentiments. 

When  the  contest  with  England  had  assumed  its  decided  as- 
pect, the  son  was  compelled  to  escape  to  Boston,  and  seek  pro- 
tection under  the  British  flag.  He  joined  the  army,  and  in  the 
expedition  to  Lexington,  was  its  guide,  acting  as  aid  to  Lord 
Piercy.  In  that  battle  he  had  a  horse  shot  under  him.  He 
was, a  manly,  noble,  splendid  fellow  ;  generous  to  a  fault,  a  gen- 
tleman in  feeling,  and  elegant  in  person.  An  only  son,  to  bear 
up  his  distinguished  name,  he  was  naturally  the  idol  of  his 
father,  as  well  as  of  two  maiden  sisters  of  rare  accomplisii- 
ments.  His  father  remained  in  Plymouth,  isolated  among  his 
whig  relations,  and  deprived,  by  the  disasters  of  the  times  and 
the  approaching  conflict,  of  every  means  of  support,  although 
accustomed  to  all  the  luxuries  of  wealth. 

In  the  year  1776,  the  British  held  occupation  of  the  island  of 
Rhode  Island.  The  son  was  there,  in  the  capacity  of  aid  to  the 
Commander-in-Chief.  His  heart  bled  for  the  fate  of  kindred 
reduced  to  indigence  in  the  midst  of  enemies.  His  parents  and 
sisters  felt  the  keenest  anguish  from  their  separation.  The 
father  and  a  sister  came  to  Providence  in  June,  '78,  and  soli- 
cited me,  a  mere  youth,  (so  depressed  was  their  condition.)  to 
intercede  with  General  Sullivan,  then  in  command  at  Provi- 
dence, and  obtain  permission  for  him  to  have  an  interview  with 
his  son,  upon  one  of  the  islands  in  Narraganset  Bay.  The 
chance  of  success  appeared  to  me  hopeless,  but  I  plead  in  the 
cause  of  humanity  with  all  the  eloquence  I  possessed — first 


72 


with  Mr.  Brown,  to  intercede  with  Sullivan ;  then  with  his 
aids,  with  whom  I  was  famihar ;  and  ultimately,  I  approached 
the  General  himself,  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  prevail. 

A  flag  was  despatched  to  Newport  with  an  open  letter,  from 
the  father  to  the  son,  appointing  the  time  and  place  for  the 
proposed  interview.  The  place  was  the  south  end  of  Provi- 
dence Island.  Lieut.  Coleman,  of  the  Virginia  Artillery,  a  gal- 
lant soldier,  who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Camden,  under 
Gates,  was  designated  to  escort  the  father ;  and,  at  his  solici- 
tation, 1  accompanied  them.  Sullivan  exacted  a  pledge  of 
honor  from  Mr.  Winslow,  that  he  would  make  to  his  son  no 
communications  of  a  public  nature. 

We  embarked  in  a  cartel  boat,  at  Greenwich.  As  the  place 
appointed  was  nearly  equi-distant  from  Newport  and  Green- 
wich, it  was  understood  that  the  two  boats  should  start  at  the 
same  time.  The  father,  sister,  Coleman  and  myself,  with  five 
oarsmen  and  a  cockswain,  occupied  one  boat.  We  hardly 
opened  the  bay,  with  an  uninterrupted  view  towards  Newport, 
where  there  was  a  forest  of  British  masts,  when  we  discovered 
a  speck  upon  the  water,  which  Coleman,  with  the  aid  of  a  glass, 
pronounced  a  boat.  On  this  announcement,  the  father  became 
deeply  agitated:  tears  of  joy  rolled  down  his  furrowed  cheeks. 
The  daughter  was  equally  excited.  We  descended  rapidly 
with  the  tide  and  our  oars. 

The  boat,  containing  a  charge  so  precious  to  my  relatives, 
approached  nearer  and  nearer,  each  boat  directed  to  the  same 
point.  A  doubt  no  longer  existed.  We  landed  some  minutes 
before  the  other  boat  reached  the  shore.  The  son  rose  in  the 
stern,  and  waved  a  white  handkerchief.  At  this  sight,  Mr. 
Winslow  and  the  daughter  darted  towards  the  shore,  and  the 
former  would  have  rushed  into  the  water,  had  not  Coleman 
restrained  his  impetuosity.  Oh  !  had  I  the  pen  of  Sterne  to 
portray  this  pathetic  scene  !  but  words  recede  from  my  feeble 
pen.  When  the  boat  had  reached  within  ten  feet  of  the  shore, 
the  son  stood  braced  in  the  bow,  prepared  for  ,a  spring,  and, 
in  another  moment,  leaped  half-leg  deep  into  the  sea.  The 
three  were  in  an  instant  entwined  in  one  impassioned  embrace, 
and  in  deep  silence. 


OE,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  73 

The  hichest-toned  feelinf]cs  of  the  human  heart  were  stretched 
to  the  utmost  tension,  and  overtasked  nature  seemed  exhausted. 
The  spectacle  was  too  sacred  and  affecting  to  be  gazed  upon, 
and  Coleman  seemed  to  forget  his  duty  in  not  witnessing  the 
interview.  We  walked  aside,  in  silence  and  respect,  while  the 
boats  hauled  off  shore  to  a  little  distance. 

On  our  return  to  Greenwich,  we  spent  part  of  the  day  with 
other  victims  of  this  destructive  civil  war,  the  beautiful  young 
widow  and  two  children  of  Lieut.  Rennels,  She  was  an  Irish 
lady,  in  the  bloom  of  youth,  prostrated  by  grief  and  melancholy. 
Her  husband,  an  officer  in  Burgoyne's  army,  was  killed  in  the 
battle  at  Bemis'  Heights  ;  while  she,  in  company  w^th  Lady 
Harriet  Ackland  and  other,  ladies,  was  protected  in  a  cellar. 
The  event  has  been  pathetically  described  by  the  classic  pen 
of  Burgoyne. 

From  the  period  of  the  above  interview  until  1779,  I  was  the 
medium  through  which  Edward  sent  supplies  to  his  father.  I 
was  much  blamed  by  my  w^hig  relatives  for  my  intercourse 
with  them,  but  they  were  ever  deeply  grateful.  They  died  re- 
fusjees  in  Nova-Scotia. 

France  having  acknowledged  our  independence,  and  em- 
barked energetically  in  the  war,  all  America  was  rejoiced  and 
animated  at  the  appearance  of  a  French  fleet  of  twelve  sail-of- 
the-Une,  commanded  by  Count  D'Estaing,  off  Sandy  Hook,  in  the 
summer  of  1778.  In  co-operation  with  Washington,  an  attack 
upon  New- York  was  supposed  to  be  their  object.  In  a  few 
days,  however,  we  were  surprised  by  the  approach  of  a  detach- 
ment of  1,500  men  from  Washington's  army,  to  Providence, 
where  General  Sullivan  then  commanded.  Suddenly  the 
French  fleet  appeared  off  Newport ;  one  or  two  British  frigates 
were  burnt,  and  the  residue  of  the  British  fleet  sought  refuge  in 
the  harbor.  At  once,  the  whole  country  was  all  bustle  and  ac- 
tivity.    The  militia  came  pouring  in  from  every  quarter. 

Newport  was  the  point  upon  which  the  storm  was  to  fall, 
and  all  supposed  that  the  Royal  army,  of  six  thousand  veterans, 
on  Rhode  Island,  and  the  British  fleet,  were  within  our  grasp. 
The  American  army  was  principally  assembled  at  Tiverton, 


74 


opposite  Rhode  Island.     Our  Providence  companies,  with  which 
I  had  again  mustered,  also  marched  to  that  point. 

The  army  crossed  over  to  the  island,  and  amounted  to 
about  10,000  men.  Sullivan  was  an  intrepid,  although  unfor- 
tunate officer.  Generals  Greene  and  La  Fayette  were  also  in 
command  on  the  occasion.  John  Hancock  was  likewise 
present,  in  command  of  the  Massachusetts  militia.  James 
Otis,  a  martyr  to  the  cause  of  hberty,  was  there  a  strolUng 
lunatic  about  the  camp.  The  great  and  fervid  mind,  that  first 
grasped  the  idea  of  independence,  was  then  a  melancholy 
ruin. 

As  I  do  not  design  to  write  a  history  of  the  siege,  I  shall 
merely  trace  the  outline  of  events.  The  British  retreated,  and 
our  army  regularly  invested  the  town.  General  Sullivan  re- 
ceived daily  assurances  that  D'Estaing  would  enter  the  harbor, 
and  land  3,000  troops,  to  co-operate  with  the  American  forces. 
The  surrender  of  the  British  army  seemed  inevitable.  Lord 
Howe,  in  the  interim,  appeared  off  the  harbor  with  an  inferior 
fleet,  and  D'Estaing  pursued  him  out  to  sea,  for  the  purpose  of 
bringing  him  to  action.  On  the  ensuing  day,  there  occurred 
one  of  the  most  terrific  storms  ever  known  at  the  season  in  this 
latitude.  Both  fleets  were  disabled  and  scattered.  The 
French  fleet  gradually  re-assembled  at  their  former  position. 
The  ships  were  promptly  repaired,  and  then,  instead  of  prose- 
cuting the  siege,  sailed  for  Boston,  leaving  the  army  to  its  fate. 
Sullivan  remonstrated  in  violent  terms,  and  La  Fayette  ad- 
vanced every  argument,  and  urged  every  expostulation,  but  the 
decision  of  the  council  of  officers,  convened  by  D'Estaing,  was 
irrevocable.  Had  we  been  attacked  at  this  moment  of  dejec- 
tion and  disorganization,  with  vigor  and  promptitude  by  the 
enemy,  the  capture  of  our  whole  army  was  almost  assured  to 
them.  An  immediate  retreat  was  ordered — the  British  pur- 
sued, and  an  engagement  took  place  near  Quaker  Hill.  Our 
company  was  posted  behind  a  stone  wall,  and  attacked  by  a 
corps  of  Hessians.  After  a  sharp  action,  the  British  withdrew, 
and  during  the  night  we  effected  our  retreat  to  the  main  land, 
without  the  loss  of  our  cannon  or  baggage.     Our  retreat  was 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON  75 

most  opportune,  as  General  Clinton  ariived  the  day  after  with 
4,000  men,  and  a  formidable  fleet. 

On  the  22d  of  January,  1779,  I  attained  the  age  of  twenty- 
one,  with  the  wide  world  before  me,  and  having  been  deeply 
disappointed  in  the  expectations  I  had  formed  in  respect  to  my 
establishment  in  life,  I  was  induced  to  embrace  proposals 
made  to  me  by  Mr.  Brown  and  others,  to  proceed  to  France, 
in  association  with  them. 

I  engaged  my  passage  on  board  the  Mercury  packet,  Capt. 
Sampson.*  This  vessel  had  been  built  at  Plymouth  for  the 
government,  and  was  constructed  for  rapid  sailing,  being  only 
seventy  tons  burthen,  and  expressly  to  carry  dispatches  to  Eu- 
rope. She  had  been  manned  at  Plymouth,  and  a  part  of  her 
crew  were  unfortunate  schoolmates  and  companions  of  my 
youth.  The  position  and  prospects  of  several,  in  boyhood, 
had. been  equal  to  my  own.  Such,  however,  is  the  inscrutable 
dispensations  of  Providence.  Men  arise  and  disappear  upon 
the  stage  of  hfe,  possessing  the  same  original  advantages,  and 
yet  how  diversified  their  destiny  !  Could  society,  by  a  Divine 
decree,  be  placed  on  a  perfect  equality  of  position,  and  even 
talenst,  the  succeeding  generation  would  present  as  varied 
an  aspect  in  their  condition,  as  the  lints  of  the  rainbow. 

■*  The  following  year,  Henry  Laurens,  President  of  Congress,  was  going  out 
in  the  "Mercury,"  as  secret  emissary  to  Holland,  when  she  was  captured  by  a 
British  frigate.  Mr.  Laurens  threw  his  dispatches  overboard.  The  act  was 
seen,  however,  by  an  intrepid  British  sailor,  who  sprang  into  the  sea  from  the 
frigate,  and  secured  the  papers.  All  our  affairs  with  Holland  were  thus  devel- 
oped, and  in  consequence  England  declared  war. 


76  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 


CH  AFTER    VIII. 

Sail  for  Europe  —  St.  George's  Banks  —  Porpoises  —  Whales  —  Take 
a  Dolphin — France — St.  Martinis — Isle  De  Rhe — Manners — La  Ro- 
chelle — French.  Vehicle^Postillion — La  Yendee — Nantes^Horse 
Patrole — Safety  in  Travelling — ximiens — Angers — Beggars — Pea- 
santry— Versailles — Lanterns — Paris. 

On  the  4th  of  August,  1779,  we  embarked  on  board  the 
packet,  and  fell  down  to  Nantasket  roads.  My  fellow-passen- 
gers were  Major  Knox,  brother  to  General  Knox,  an  English 
and  an  Irish  gentleman. 

The  French  frigate  "La  Sensible,"  from  Brest,  having  on 
board  John  Adams,  and  the  first  French  ambassador  to  tbe 
young  republic,  Mr.  Gerard,  liad  dropped  anchor  about  an 
hour  before.  We  went  on  board  to  receive  their  commands 
for  France. 

At  dawn  the  next  morning  we  weighed  anchor,  and  stood 
out  to  sea.  The  mighty  ocean  spread  out  before  us,  and  the 
blue  hills  of  Dorchester,  and  the  numerous  steeples  of  Boston 
gradually  sinking  in  the  horizon.  Sailing  within  sight  of  my 
native  village,  this  morning,  my  eyes  were  riveted  to  the  spot 
until  the  faintest  ghmpse  was  lost.  Adieu,  my  native  shore ? 
adieu ! 

The  whole  day,  all  hands  were  employed  in  clearing  ship 
and  stowing  away  spars  and  boats. 

Although  deadly  sea-sick,  I  was  delighted  with  the  rapid 
flight  of  our  little  "  Mercury  "  across  the  waves,  with  all  our 
sails  displayed.  Some  hump-backed  whales  appeared,  and  nu- 
merous shoals  of  porpoises  were  gamboling  and  playing  about 
our  bows. 

The  second  day  after  our  departure,  we  were  off  St. 
George's  Bank,  in  a  perfect  calm.  The  sea  was  hushed  and 
placid.  We  saw  distant  vessels  with  their  sails  flapping  against 
the   masts.      This   bank   extends    about   fifty    leagues.     The 


OR 


MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  77 


Gulf  Stream  sets  rapidly  across  it ;  and  undoubtedly  creates 
the  formation,  by  the  deposit  of  sand,  scooped  out  of  the  shores 
of  tropical  regions,  which  it  bears  in  its  current  to  this  place. 
The  cod  fisheries  on  these  banks  have  been,  since  the  earliest 
settlement  of  New-England,  an  unfailing  source  of  wealth  to 
her  enterprising  sons. 

At  dawn,  on  the  8th  of  August,"  we  discovered  ourselves 
within  a  league  of  a  British  frigate,  bearing  down  upon  us. 
We  instantly  wore  ship,  and  the  wind  rising  with  the  sun,  the 
little  Mercury  soon  darted  away  from  her  pursuer.  The  frigate 
then  fired  a  gun  to  the  leeward,  in  token  of  friendship,  but  as 
there  was  no  trusting  to  professions  of  this  character,  in  those 
depraved  days,  we  kept  our  course.  She  continued  the  chase 
for  several  hours,  but  at  length  we  ran  her  out  of  sight.  This 
evening  the  western  sky  exhibited  a  most  beautiful  and  gorge- 
ous illumination.  The  variegated  and  vivid  tints  of  the  gold- 
edged  clouds,  could  be  adequately  copied  by  no  human  hand. 
This  lovely  display  of  Almighty  power  was  deeply  impressed 
on  my  mind,  and  remained,  like  the  recollection  of  a  highly 
brilliant  picture,  but  infinitely  beyond  its  influence.  Sailing 
under  a  brisk  breeze  by  moonlight,  and  our  vessel  laying  low  in 
the  water,  a  flying-fish  flew  over  our  bows  upon  deck. 

In  a  dead  calm,  we  were  amused  by  the  appearances  of  por- 
poises and  large  whales,  coming  from  the  "  vasty  deep,"  spout- 
ing up  floods  of  water.  Suddenly,  a  school  of  dolphins  appeared 
under  our  stern.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  their  fan- 
ciful and  changeable  colors,  when  the  bright  sun-beams  play 
upon  them  in  the  water.  I  succeeded  in  taking  one,  but  as 
soon  as  he  left  his  native  element,  the  beautiful  coloring,  in  a 
measure,  disappeared. 

The  dolphin  is  pronounced  by  sailors  generally,  to  be  poison- 
ous, yet  we  had  my  prize  cooked  with  some  precautions,  and 
found  him  a  sumptuous  feast. 

Off  the  Western  Islands,  we  were  again  chased,  in  a  rough 
sea  and  stiflfgale.  The  result  of  the  chase,  for  two  hours,  was 
very  doubtful.     Half  the  time  we  were   almost  under  water. 


78  MEN  AND  TIMES  OP   THE  REVOLUTION; 

At  length  the  wind  lulled,  we  changed  our  course,  spread  more 
canvas,  and  escaped.  We  experienced  a  severe  gale  in  enter- 
ing, as  v^e  supposed,  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  It  was  the  first  time 
I  had  witnessed  a  storm  at  sea.  I  crawled  up  the  companion- 
way  to  behold  the  sublime,  yet  terrible  scene.  We  were  quite 
snug — our  spars  well  lashed.  Our  little  Mercury  sinking  into 
the  deep  abyss,  and  mounting  the  white,  curling  waves,  with 
ease  and  grace,  seemed  to  bid  defiance  to  the  vast  watery 
mountains,  which  every  moment  threatened  to  overwhelm  her. 
We  surmounted  the  gale  without  injury. 

The  following  morning  we  saw  land-birds,  observed  grape- 
vines floating  in  the  sea — the  color  of  the  water  changed. 
All  these  indicating  our  approach  to  land. 

September  3d,  a  strong  westerly  wind  wafted  us.  during  the 
night,  rapidly  towards  the  coast  of  France,  and  at  the  earliest 
dawn,  the  man  aloft  cried  out  "  land."  The  most  delightful 
sound  a  poor  landsman  can  hear. 

We  all  hastened  upon  deck,  when,  to  our  utter  dismay,  the 
same  man  sung  out,  "  A  fleet  a-head  !"  We  at  once  prepared 
to  surrender  ourselves  prisoners  of  war,  and  secreted  our  valu- 
able papers  about  our  persons.  Soon  after,  however,  as  the 
day  advanced,  he  again  cried  out,  "  A  city  ahead,  with  steeples, 
and  no  fleet," — to  our  inexpressible  comfort. 

As  the  sun  arose,  we  found  ourselves  nearing  the  coast  of 
France ;  spires  and  domes  in  prospect,  and  no  hostile  cruisers 
in  the  offing.  A  pilot  came  on  board,  and  we  soon  dropped 
anchor  abreast  of  the  walls  of  St.  Martin,  a  city  of  the  Isle  de 
Rh^.  Our  waving  stripes  had  attracted  general  attention, 
and  the  ramparts  of  the  city,  fronting  the  sea,  was  lined  with 
citizens  and  soldiers.  Our  Consul,  Mr.  Craig,  with  several  of- 
ficers, came  on  board,  our  Captain  and  Maj.  Knox  receiving 
them  in  full  rebel  uniform. 

We  saw  neither  city  nor  port,  until  we  approached  the  im- 
mense wall  which  guards  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  Here 
making  a  sudden  turn,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  fine  artificial 
harbor,  constructed  of  hewn  stone,  and  crowded  with  vessels. 
We  mounted  a  flight  of  steps,  and  through  an  archway  ascend- 


OE,  MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOX.  79 

ed  the  quay,  which  was  thronged  by  the  populace,  to  see,  as  I 
afterwards  understood,  the  North  American  savages  ;  for  such 
w^as  the  idea  entertained  of  us  by  the  mass  of  the  French 
people.  After  a  sail  of  twenty-nine  days,  I  was  standing  on  a 
quay  in  France.     What  a  transition  ! 

Our  consul  conducted  us  to  call  upon  the  governor,  who  re- 
sided in  a  splendid  edifice,  and  w^ho  received  us  with  great  cour- 
tesy and  respect ;  and  introduced  us  to  several  swarthy,  black- 
eyed  French  ladies,  with  richly-painted  faces.  For*  several 
hours  I  could  scarcely  walk,  awkwardly  lifting  up  one  foot,  and 
waiting  for  the  motion  of  the  vessel,  and  when  seated  at  the 
governor's,  it  appeared  as  if  the  house  was  at  sea.  The  re- 
freshing fragrancy  of  the  land  soon  restored  my  equilibrium, 
and  dispelled  from  my  mind  The  miseries  of  a  floating  prison, 
and  the  constant  apprehension  of  a  real  one. 

We  strolled  through  the  city  with  Mr.  Craig,  gazed  at  by 
the  crowd,  and  followed  by  boys,  from  street  to  street.  My 
own  entire  thoughts  and  attention  w^ere  absorbed  by  the  novel- 
ties around  me:  new  faces— new  objects— strange  customs 
and  lanoruage. 

The  clattering  of  wooden  shoes  along  the  pavement,  the 
jackasses,  young  ladies  astride  of  mules,  cantering  through  the 
streets,  and  the  appeals  at  every  corner,  "  La  Charite,"~were 
all  spectacles  new  and  strange  to  my  untravelled  eye.  At  our 
consul's  we  were  feasted  with  delicious  fruits  and  dainties- 
being  treated  with  that  kind  of  politeness  so  characteristic  of 
the  French. 

Our  destination  had  been  Nantes,  but  having  in  charge  des- 
patches  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the  French  Government, 
and  our  ambassador.  Dr.  Franklin,  then  at  Passy,  the  gov- 
ernor advised  us  to  proceed  by  land. 

The  Isle  de  Rh6  is  a  small  island,  nine  miles  by  three,  and 
is  principally  devoted  to  the  grape  culture— from  which  is 
made  annually  between  20  and  80,000  tons  of  wine,  and  be- 
tween 3  and  4,000  pipes  of  brandy.  It  contains  about  22,000 
inhabitants.  The  citadel  forms  a  square  of  spacious  buildings, 
constructed  of  hewn  stone.     In  the  centre  of  the  parade  of  St 


80  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION  ; 

Martin's  is  a  colossal  statue  of  Louis  XV.,  on  horseback.  Be- 
tween 30  and  40,000  tons  of  dirty  salt  is  manufactured  on  the 
island,  from  sea-water  by  evaporation. 

We  found  four  mules  at  our  consul's  door,  on  which  we 
mounted,  and  trotted  briskly  over  the  pavements  of  St.  Mar- 
tin's, our  ears  constantly  assailed  by  the  cry  of  "  Voila  les 
braves  Bostones,"  (there  go  the  brave  Bostonians,)  from  the 
populace.  The  appellation  of  Bostonians,  Mr.  Craig  informed 
me,  is  given  generally,  throughout  France,  to  the  American 
Insurgents.  The  insurrection  having  commenced  in  Boston, 
they  confound  the  whole  nation  with  that  city. 

We  proceeded  across  the  island,  in  the  midst  of  vineyards 
of  ripe  grapes,  hanging  in  delicious  clusters,  to  the  very  edge 
of  the  roads  ;  there  being  no  fences  or  ditches  intervening. 
The  ferry  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  Our  consul  kindly 
accompanied  us  to  Rochelle,  six  miles  from  St.  Martin's.  Near 
the  ferry  we  viewed  the  venerable  old  Fort  La  Free,  where 
the  Duke  of  Buckingham  was  defeated  in  1627,  after  an  un- 
successful attempt  on  Eochelle. 

We  embarked  on  board  of  a  long  gabbone,  with  a  half-deck, 
and  about  thirty  passengers.  Soon  after  embarking  we  were 
attacked  by  a  liirious  thunder-squall  and  tempest  of  rain,  which 
drove  us  all,  for  shelter,  under  deck.  The  women  screamed— 
the  children  squalled— and  a  Roman  Catholic  priest,  (an  Irish- 
man,) swore  most  furiously  in  English. 

After  a  passage  of  six  miles  across  the  bay,  we  doubled 
around  a  point  of  land,  and  were  at  once  in  still  water.  The 
squall  subsided,  and  all  was  well.  Thus  it  is  often  in  the  magic 
scenes  of  life.  We  passed  two  venerable  castles  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbor.  The  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  "  Bos- 
tones" at  St.  Martin's  had  preceded  us,  and  we  were  soon 
surrounded  by  a  throng  of  people,  anxious  to  see  the  new  allies 
of  France.  Rochelle  is  a  very  old  city.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row and  dirty.  The  houses  are  built  of  hewn  stone,  four  and 
five  stories  high,  with  each  story  projecting  over  the  other. 
The  upper  stories  approach  so  near  as  to  darken  the  narrow 
streets,  and  almost  exclude  the  rays  of  the  sun. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON".  81 

I  occupied  my  first  French  bed  in  this  city,  and  was  surprised 
to  see  the  immense  profusion  of  feathers — bed  accumulated 
on  bed.  It  was  not  without  an  effort  that  I  reached  the  soft 
summit. 

Rochelle  was  a  strong-hold  of  the  Huguenots  of  France, 
who  here  sustained  a  siege  of  thirteen  months,  against  the 
whole  power  of  Cardinal  Richelieu,  in  1628.  The  Edict  of 
Is^antes,  which  had  been  granted  by  the  great  Henry,  and  con- 
ferred upon  those  Huguenots  their  civil  immunities,  was  re- 
voked by  Louis  XIV.  in  1685.  To  this  event,  and  the  perse- 
cutions which  preceded  it,  America  was  indebted  for  many 
valuable  emigrants  ;  who  fleeing  from  oppression  in  the  Old 
World,  carried  those  sentiments  of  liberty  to  the  New,  which 
are  now  receiving  their  full  fruition. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  6th  Sept.,  we  were  stowed 
away,  one  before  the  other,  in  a  vehicle  of  the  most  awkward 
and  heavy  construction.  It  was  supported  on  two  wheels,  almost 
as  large  as  ox-cart  wheels  in  America,  and  drawn  by  three 
horses  abreast,  one  supporting  the  shaft.  The  postillion  was 
mounted  upon  a  little  bidet,  and  wore  monstrous  boots,  hoop- 
ed w^ith  iron.  His  hair  was  powdered  and  frizzed,  with  a  long 
queue  hanging  down  his  shoulders.  An  old  cocked  hat,  which 
had  been  once  laced,  and  a  short  coatee,  completed  his  attire. 
Thus  arranged  and  conducted,  we  rattled  through  the  narrow 
streets  of  La  Rochelle,  and  soon  were  galloping,  for  the  first 
time,  along  his  Most  Christian  Majesty's  highway.  The  pos- 
tillion, cracking  his  whip,  merrily  singing,  and  politely  accost- 
ing all  we  met,  seemed  perfectly  devoid  of  care. 

From  La  Rochelle  to  Nantes  is  one  hundred  and  five  miles. 
In  that  distance  we  exchanged  horses  nine  times,  making  from 
six  to  fifteen  miles  each  stage  or  relay.  This  region  is  the  La 
Vendee,  whose  population  was  nearly  exterminated  by  the  civil 
war  of  the  French  Revolution.  A  gen  tleman,  who  passed  through 
the  country  a  year  after  the  war  terminated,  assured  me  that 
the  villages  were  literally  without  inhabitants  ;  and  that  the 
unburied  bodies  of  men  and  horses  strewed  the  fields.  We 
passed  several  villages,  and  two  or  three  large  towns  in  our  route. 


82  MEN"  AND  TIMES   OP  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

The  country  is  occasionally  hilly,  with  now  and  then  a 
marsh  on  the  seaboard  ;  but,  generally,  is  a  wide  and  beautiful 
champaign.  We  found  the  tavern  affording  very  indifferent 
fare,  with  the  exception  of  delicious  fruit.  Each  traveller,  I 
noticed,  was  obliged  to  supply  his  own  knife. 

The  postillions  have  little  mercy  on  their  horses,  rattling  up 
liill  and  down,  reckless  of  consequences.  In  going  down 
rather  a  steep  descent  at  this  rate,  our  shaft-horse  fell  with 
great  violence,  breaking  one  of  the  shafts  in  the  fall.  The 
postillion,  boots  and  all,  were  dragged  down  with  him,  and  I 
was  enabled  to  perceive  tlie  great  advantage  of  this  uncouth 
contrivance;  for  he  drew  out  his  legs,  perfectly  uninjured, 
leaving  his  boots  in  the  midst  of  the  wreck.  I  was  told  a  pair 
of  these  boots,  with  the  long  spurs  attached,  weigh  about  thirty 
pounds.  We  were  compelled  to  trudge  on  a-foot.  The  after- 
noon, however,  was  delightful ;  and  we  were  regaled  on  the 
road  by  the  sweet  music  of  birds,  and  helped  ourselves  to  the 
luscious  grapes,  clustering  on  the  wayside.  Our  misfortune 
compelled  us  to  stop  at  a  miserable  "  auberge,"  in  the  little  vil- 
lage of  Chantenay.  Just  as  we  were  preparing  for  bed,  seve- 
ral officers  arrived.  The  landlord  soon  rushing  into  our  room 
in  apparent  agitation,  addressed  himself  to  the  Major.  The 
result  was,  that  although  dark  and  raining,  we  must  immediately 
proceed  on,  or  risk  the  chance  of  detention,  as  a  Seigneur  had 
sent  an  express  to  detain  all  the  horses.  There  was  no  rea- 
soning the  matter  of  right,  as  we  do  in  America ;  but  yield  we 
must,  to  his  Excellency.  My  companions  were  inclined  to 
submit  to  this  dictation,  and  we  decamped,  leaving  our  beds  to 
the  officers.  We  heard  no  more  of  the  Seigneur,  till  some 
time  after,  we  understood  these  officers  boasted  how  adroitly 
they  had  out-manoeuvred  the  American  savages. 

The  country,  as  we  approached  Nantes,  was  in  a  high  state  of 
improvement.  The  roads  were  adorned  with  venerable  orna- 
mental trees.  We  rode  through  the  dirty  streets  of  the  sub- 
urbs for  a  mile,  and  then  the  river  and  city  suddenly  burst 
upon  our  view,  with  the  stone  bridges  over  the  Loire,  and  its 
branches,  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  and  a  fleet  of  lighter  ves- 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  83 

sels  pressing  up  the  river.  We  traversed  a  bridge  near  the 
Exchange,  where  I  saw  a  crowd  of  merchants,  collected  under 
the  shade  of  some  beautiful  trees.  The  same  evening  I  made 
an  arrangement  to  proceed  to  Paris  the  succeeding  morning, 
with  my  dispatches,  accompanied  by  an  interpreter. 

Sept.  9th.  Left  ISTantes,  and,  in  conformity  with  the  usual 
custom  in  France,  we  provided  ourselves  with  provisions  and 
wine  for  our  journey.  The  carriages  were  so  arranged  as  to 
enable  the  passengers  to  sleep  with  considerable  comfort,  who 
are  thus  enabled  to  travel  night  and  day.  This  custom,  prob- 
ably,  originated  from  the  wretched  accommodations  formerly 
found  upon  the  road. 

The  highways  in  France  were  everywhere  patrolled,  night 
and  day,  by  numerous  companies  of  armed  horsemen.  Robbe- 
ries were,  therefore,  extremely  uncommon  ;  and  even  baggage, 
and  small  articles  left  in  the  carriage  over  night,  were  compara- 
tively secure.  This  immunity  from  petty  thefts  was  owing,  in  a 
great  degree,  to  the  restraints  imposed  on  the  bigoted  populace 
by  the  influence  of  their  monthly  confessionals.  I  was  de- 
lighted, as  we  galloped  through  the  city,  with  the  appearance 
of  the  Loire,  the  bustle  of  active  commerce,  and  the  elegance 
of  large  white  stone  edifices,  occupying  the  islands,  which  are 
embraced  in  the  city,  and  situated  on  the  public  squares. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  reached  Ancenis,  a  considerable 
town,  of  5,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  borders  of  the  Loire. 
The  next  day  we  passed  over  hills,  through  vales,  enlivened  by 
numerous  herds  of  fine  cattle,  and  through  many  considerable 
villages,  to  the  great  city  of  Angers,  containing  a  population  of 
60,000,  who  were  engaged  in  extensive  manufactures,  especially 
that  of  sail-duck,  for  the  royal  navy.  We  travelled  the  two 
succeeding  days  213  miles,  and  on  the  third,  at  noon,  Sept. 
12th,  I  entered  the  city  of  Paris,  the  capital  of  the  world,  as 
the  Parisians  assert. 

The  roads  were  excellent,  ornamented  near  the  towns  by  vis- 
tas of  trees.  From  La  Fleche  to  La  Loupe,  a  distance  of  90 
miles,  the  country  is  generally  hilly,  its  principal  productions 
wheat  and  grapes.     The  pastures  are  luxuriant  in  the  valleys, 


84:        MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION ; 

and  animate  with  cattle ;  while  the  eminences  are  whitened 
with  coarse  woolled  sheep,  of  an  inferior  quality. 

From  Dreux  to  Paris,  a  distance  of  fifty  miles,  the  roads  are 
paved.  The  country  is  beautiful  and  luxuriant.  Venerable 
Roman  towers — Gothic  cathedrals — noblemen's  seats — and 
flourishing  towns  and  villages,  all  conspired  to  give  animation 
and  interest  to  our  journey.  Yet,  the  universal  and  disgusting 
prevalence  of  street-beggary  was  in  strange,  though  strong  con- 
trast, with  all  this  magnificence  and  apparent  prosperity. 
Every  village  and  town  swarmed  with  vociferous  beggars. 
Every  hill  seemed  occupied  with  its  droves  of  paupers  and  va- 
grants, ready  to  assail  the  traveller  as  he  ascends  it.  I  am  as- 
tonished, that  a  people  so  full  of  expedients  as  the  French, 
have  not  devised  some  system  to  correct  this  burning  shame  to 
their  national  character.  At  a  small  village,  we  passed  in  the 
afternoon,  1  found  myself  in  the  midst  of  a  little  host  of  dwarf 
beggars,  in  rags,  and  most  loathsome  in  their  appearance,  all 
demanding,  in  a  vociferous  chorus,  *'  La  Charite,  La  Charite ! 
au  nom  de  Dieu!"  and,  with  tattered  hats  and  caps,  pressing  up 
to  my  very  face. 

The  labor  of  the  field  was  performed  by  a  degraded  and  ignor- 
ant peasantry,  the  tenants  of  the  nobles  and  the  clergy,  who 
held  two-thirds  of  the  soil  of  France. 

At  Versailles,  the  approach  to  which  is  distinguished  by  a 
highly-cultivated  country  and  delightful  roads,  we  passed  the 
magnificent  palace  of  the  king — entered  the  public  square 
through  a  gate  of  the  city — changed  horses,  and  pushed  for- 
ward to  the  capital. 

This  being  the  last  stage,  and  in  the  track  of  royalty,  was  call- 
ed the  post-royal,  and,  in  consequence,  we  had  to  pay  double 
fare,  but  were  compensated  by  having  a  postillion  dressed  like 
a  gentleman,  with  an  uncommonly  long  queue,  and  his  hair  friz- 
zed and  powdered,  nay,  perfumed. 

The  road  from  Versailles  to  Paris,  a  distance  of  twelve 
miles,  was  superb — spacious — well-paved,— ornamented  with 
avenues  of  trees,  and  lighted  by  large  lamps,  suspended  over 
the  centre  of  the  road,  with  double  reflectors,  casting  a  strong 


OR,   MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  85 

light  in  both  directions.  The  road  was  all  animation,  thronged 
with  foot  passengers  and  carriages  of  every  description.  We 
rode  along  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  in  approaching  Paris,  and 
were  stopped  at  the  barrier,  and  our  baggage  inspected. 

The  first  object  which  fixed  my  attention,  was  a  statue  of 
Louis  XIV.  Next,  I  was  attracted  by  the  superb  royal  gar- 
dens— the  Tuilleries — near  which  we  crossed  the  river  on  the 
Pont  Neuf,  opposite  the  Louvre,  and  were  soon  landed  at  the 
Hotel  d'York,  Fauxbourg  St.  Germain. 


86  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Dr.  Franklin — Count  De  Yergennes — King  and  Queen — French  Dinner 
and  Manners — Paris — Gates — Police — Manufactures — Louvre — Dr. 
Franklin's  Standing  and  Influence — Notre  Dame — St.  Germain's — 
Marlie — St.  Cloud's — Elysian  Fields — City  of  Orleans — Paved  Road 
— Vineyards — Peasantry — Forest — Fuel  of  France — Canals— Orleans 
— Burgundy — Languedoc — Blois — Illumination — Grand  Causeway — 
Night  Travelling — Roman  Work — Tours — Angers. 

Immediately  after  shaking  off  the  dust  of  travel,  1  proceeded 
with  my  dispatches  to  Dr.  Franklin,  at  Passy.  I  was  delighted 
to  come  into  contact  with  this  great  man,  of  whom  I  had  heard 
familiarly  from  my  cradle.* 

At  his  request,  I  repaired  to  the  Count  De  Vergennes,  Prime 
Minister  of  France,  with  the  dispatches,  bearing  a  hne  of  in- 
troduction from  Dr.  Franklin.  I  was  received  by  that  accom- 
plished statesman  with  great  civility.  Having  taken  a  bird's- 
eye  view  of  the  splendid  palace  and  gardens  of  Versailles,  I 
expressed  a  wish  to  the  Count's  Secretary,  to  see  the  Royal 
family  ;  he  accompanied  me  to  the  Eoyal  Chapel,  where  they 
were  about  to  engage  in  the  performance  of  religious  exercises. 
We  entered  into  the  body  of  a  middle-sized,  but  most  magnifi- 
cent church,  by  a  door  facing  the  gallery,  in  the  midst  of  an 
audience,  all  standing.  Soon  after,  the  King  and  Queen  en- 
tered the  gallery  by  a  side  door,  and  seated  themselves  in  front^ 
under  a  rich  canopy.  On  their  entrance,  the  music  resounded, 
and  High  Mass  forthwith  was  performed.  They  both  appeared 
absorbed  in  the  religious  solemnities. 

The  King's  person  was  somewhat  robust,  with  a  full  face,  Ro- 
man nose,  and  placid  countenance.     The  Quefen  had  an  elegant 

*  His  image  is  vividly  impressed  on  my  mind,  and  is  v^rell  delineated  in 
Trumbull's  picture  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.     (1820.) 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSOK.  87 

person,  a  fine  figure,  and  imposing  aspect,  and  florid  complex- 
ion, with  bright  grey  eyes,  full  of  expression, 

The  ensuing  day,  I  returned  to  Passy,  to  dine,  by  invitation, 
with  Dr.  Franklin.  At  the  hour  of  dinner,  he  conducted  me 
across  a  spacious  garden  of  several  acres,  to  the  princely  resi- 
dence of  M.  Le  Ray  de  Chaumont.*  This  was  the  first  occa- 
sion of  my  dining  in  a  private  circle  in  Europe,  and  being 
still  in  my  American  style  of  dress,  and  ignorant  of  the 
French  language,  and  prepared  for  extreme  ceremony,  I  felt 
exceedingly  embarrassed. 

We  entered  a  spacious  room,  I  following  the  Doctor,  where 
several  well-dressed  persons  (to  my  unsophisticated  American 
eyes  gentlemen)  bowed  to  us  profoundly.  These  were  servants. 
A  folding-door  opened  at  our  approach,  and  presented  to  my 
view  a  brilliant  assembly,  who  all  greeted  the  wise  old  man  in 
the  most  cordial  and  affectionate  manner.  He  introduced  me 
as  a  young  American  just  arrived.  One  of  the  young  ladies 
approached  him  with  the  familiarity  of  a  daughter,  tapped  him 
kindly  on  the  cheek,  and  called  him  "  Pa-pa  Franklin." 

I  was  enraptured  with  the  ease  and  freedom  exhibited  in  the 
table  intercourse  in  France.  Instead  of  the  cold  ceremony 
and  formal  compliments,  to  which  I  have  been  accustomed 
on  such  occasions,  here  all  appeared  at  ease,  and  well  sustained. 
Some  were  amusing  themselves  with  music,  others  in  singing. 
Some  were  waltzing,  and  others  gathered  in  little  groups,  in 
conversation.  At  the  table,  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  were 
mingled  together,  and  joined  in  cheerful  conversation,  each  se- 
lecting the  delicacies  of  various  courses,  and  drinking  of  deli- 
cious light  wines,  but  with  neither  toasts  nor  healths. 

The  lady  of  the  house,  instead  of  bearing  the  burden  and  in- 
convenience of  superintending  the  duties  of  the  table,  here  par- 
ticipates alike  with  others  in  its  enjoyment.     No  gentlemen,   I 


*  The  son  of  this  opulent  French  gentleman,  bearing  his  name,  is  now  a  dis- 
tinguished citizen  of  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.,  and  the  patriotic  President  of  its. 
Agricultural  Society.     (1831.) 


88  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTION  ;  \ 

was  told,  would  be  tolerated  in  France,  in  monopolizing  the 
conversation  of  the  table,  in  discussions  of  politics  or  religion, 
as  is  frequently  the  case  in  America.  A  cup  of  coffee  ordinari- 
ly terminates  the  dinner. 

I  trust  that  our  alliance  and  intercourse  with  France  may 
enable  us,  as  a  nation,  to  shake  off  the  leading-strings  of  Brit- 
ain— the  English  sternness  and  formality  of  manner,  retaining, 
however,  sufficient  of  their  gravity,  to  produce,  with  French 
ease  and  elegance,  a  happy  compound  of  national  character 
and  manners,  yet  to  be  modeled.  The  influence  of  this  alli- 
ance will  tend  to  remove  the  deep  prejudice  against  France. 

I  remained  in  Paris  fourteen  days.  Were  I  to  detail  all  my 
adventures — the  strange  sights  I  saw,  and  my  reflections  in 
comparing  the  customs  and  aspect  of  France  and  America,  I 
should  occupy  too  much  space.  I  shall  condense  from  the 
mass  of  my  journals,  a  few  remarks  illustrating  my  observa- 
tions during  that  interesting  period. 

Paris  was  then  about  six  miles  in  circumference,  nearly  form- 
ing a  circle,  and  bisected  by  the  Seine.  It  is  happily  situated  in  a 
temperate  climate,  and  in  the  heart  of  a  fertile  country,  richly 
cultivated.  It  has  a  water  communication  with  the  sea  by  the 
canal  of  Orleans,  and  the  river  Loire.  The  Seine  is  navigable 
by  large  boats,  to  Havre-de-Grace  on  the  British  Channel.  The 
city  is  built  of  hewn  stone,  and  contained  about  twenty-six 
thousand  houses,  from  four  to  seven  stories  high,  and  eight 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 

At  every  entrance  to  the  city,  there  was  a  gate,  where  carria- 
ges entering  were  inspected.  A  guard  of  eight  hundred  Swiss 
patrole  the  city  night  and  day.  The  admirable  organization 
of  the  police  of  Paris,  was  the  astonishment  of  all  Europe.  Thefts 
are  detected,  and  stolen  goods  recovered,  in  a  manner  that  is 
incredible.  The  late  Chancellor  Livingston  informed  me,  that 
either  himself  or  a  friend,  lost  a  watch,  and  left  its  number  and 
description  with  the  police.  It  was  restored  to  him  by  the 
police,  after  a  delay  of  eight  months,  the  watch  having  been 
traced  to  Rome. 


89 


The  manufactures  of  Paris  were  extensive.  That  of  tapestry- 
unequalled  in  the  world.  The  fabrics  of  Paris  were  generally 
of  the  lighter  and  more  costly  kinds — as  satins,  velvets, 
ribbons,  &c. 

This  immense  city,  having  no  maritime  commerce,  derives 
most  of  its  wealth   and  support  from  its  political  consequence. 

Having  no  business  to  occupy  my  time  during  the  few  pre- 
cious days  whilst  I  was  delayed  for  the  dispatches  to  be  con- 
veyed to  the  "  Mercury,"  which  lay  at  Nantes  awaiting  them, 
I  took  in  pay  a  respectable  servant,  dressed  like  a  gentleman, 
and  also  a  carriage  in  accordance  with  the  custom  of  the 
place,  and  devoted  every  hour  to  the  examination  of  objects  of 
interest  in  and  about  Paris.  In  the  contemplation  of  these 
new  and  attractive  scenes,  I  was  constantly  bewildered  in 
astonishment  and  admiration. 

The  first  morning  after  this  arrangement,  I  found  my  recep- 
tion room  occupied  by  several  men.  I  at  once  supposed  them 
to  be  of  the  police,  and  whilst  I  was  ruminating  as  to  the  prob- 
able occasion  of  the  visit,  a  portly  gentleman  advanced,  and 
drawing  a  tailor's  measure  from  his  pocket,  unravelled  the  mys- 
tery. They  were  mechanics,  introduced  by  the  agency  of 
Monsieur  Blanchard,  my  servant,  who  doubtless  participated 
in  the  contributions  thus  levied  on  my  pockets. 

Among  the  public  buildings  I  examined  at  Paris,  with  inter- 
est, the  Louvre  was  conspicuous.  It  was  erected  by  Louis 
XIV,,  and  faces  the  Tuilleries  on  one  side,  and  the  Seine  at  the 
Pont  Neuf.  It  is  a  most  magnificent  pile  of  buildings,  forming 
a  large  square. 

In  a  gallery  of  paintings  in  the  Louvre,  I  was  much  gratified 
in  perceiving  the  portrait  of  Franklin  near  those  of  the  King 
and  Queen,  placed  there  as  a  mark  of  distinguished  respect 
and,  as  was  understood,  in  conformity  with  royal  directions. 
Few  foreigners  have  been  presented  to  the  Court  of  St.  Cloud 
who  have  acquired  so  much  popularity  and  influence  as  Dr. 
Franklin.  I  have  seen  the  populace  attending  his  carriage  in 
the  manner  they  followed  the  King's.  His  venerable  figure,  the 


90  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

ease  of  his  manners,  fornied  in  an  intercourse  of  fifty  years 
with  the  world,  his  benevolent  countenance,  and  his  fame  as  a 
philosopher,  all  tended  to  excite  love,  and  to  command  influence 
and  respect.  He  had  attained,  by  the  exercise  of  these  quali- 
ties, a  powerful  interest  in  the  feelings  of  the  beautiful  Queen 
of  France.  She,  at  that  time,  held  a  strong  political  influence. 
The  exercise  of  that  influence,  adroitly  directed  by  Frank- 
lin, tended  to  produce  the  acknowledgment  of  our  Indepen- 
dence, and  the  subsequent  efficient  measures  pursued  by 
France  in  its  support. 

The  old  Gothic  Church  of  Notre  Dame  is  an  object  of  strong 
interest.  It  has  braved  the  storms  of  nature,  and  the  rageof 
wars,  for  centuries.  It  is  about  four  hundred  feet  long.  Its 
painted  windows,  of  immense  size,  and  the  superb  decoration 
of  the  altar,  excited  my  strongest  admiration.  A  spacious  gal- 
lery surrounds  this  noble  edifice,  supported  by  one  hundred  and 
eight  fluted  columns  of  marble.  We  ascended  to  the  summit 
of  one  of  the  towers,  where  I  had  a  commanding  view  of  all 
Paris  ;  the  vast  population  of  the  city,  that  thronged  the  streets, 
in  all  their  pride,  ambition,  and  pomp,  seemed  like  the  merest 
pigmies. 

I  carefully  examined  all  the  public  edifices  of  Paris  ;  but  they 
have  been  so  often  and  so  elaborately  described,  that  I  have 
concluded  not  to  transcribe  from  my  journals  the  minute  de- 
scriptions they  contain.  The  "  Hospital  des  Invalides"  is 
an  imposing  structure,  and  deeply  interests  the  benevolent 
feelings  of  the  heart.  It  is  one  of  the  noblest  monuments  of 
the  reign  of  "  Louis  le  Grand."  It  occupies  an  open  space 
fronting  the  Seine.  One  of  the  most  splendid  churches  of 
Paris  is  devoted  to  the  invalids.  Several  buildings,  forming  five 
squares,  are  appropriated  to  the  soldiers,  and  an  equal  num- 
ber, of  larger  dimensions,  to  the  oflicers.  At  this  asylum  3,200 
invalids  were  then  quartered,  in  comfort  and  repose.  I  spent  half 
a  day  in  viewing  superb  paintings,  commemorative  of  the 
wars  and  battles  of  Louis,  and  the  beautiful  marble  ornaments, 
with  the  paintings  in  the  dome  of  the  church.  The  Sarbonne 
contains  Cardinal  Richelieu's  celebrated  monument,  represent- 


OE,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  91 

ing  him  in  a  sitting  posture,  with  figures,  as  large  as  hfe, 
one  supporting  him  and  the  other  rechning  at  his  feet — exe- 
cuted in  the  most  exquisite  style,  from  a  solid  block  of  dark 
grey  marble. 

The  garden  of  the  Tuilleries  is  an  extensive  public  promenade, 
or  garden,  laid  out  parallel  with  the  river,  and  fronting  the  palace 
of  the  Tuilleries.  Next  to  the  palace  is  situated  a  large  flower- 
garden,  embellished  by  small  circular  pond^ — ^jets  d'eau  in  full 
play — various  statues  of  white  marble — spacious  gravel  walks, 
and  ornamented  by  venerable  forest  trees,  which  afford  a  de- 
lightful resort  to  all  Paris. 

I  often  attended  the  theatre.  Having  seen  no  other,  I  can 
make  no  comparisons.  Doctor  Franklin,  however,  assured  me 
that  the  English  excel  in  tragedy,  whilst  the  French  surpass 
them  in  the  opera,  comedy,  farce,  and  pantomime.  The  popu- 
lace of  Paris  could  hardly  exist  without  the  resource  of  the 
theatre,  to  beguile  the  long  winter  evenings.  When  I  had  be- 
come able  to  observe  and  understand  the  gross  double  en- 
tendre and  shameful  indecencies,  which  characterized  their 
performances,  1  confess  they  shocked  my  American  modesty  ; 
and  I  deeply  wonder  that  a  refined  woman  should  permit  her- 
self to  hear  and  witness  such  revolting  spectacles.  Custom, 
however,  disguises  and  tolerates  all  things. 

The  "  Palais  Royal,"  belonging  to  the  Due  de  Chartres,  of 
tlie  Royal  family,  was  but  a  mass  of  moral  corruption.  The 
magnificent  garden  was  a  public  walk,  and  the  splendid  galleries 
of  paintings  were  the  chief  attractions.  I  saw  one  large  piece, 
representing  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  which  an  English  no- 
bleman offered  to  cover  with  guineas,  as  its  price,  and  was  re- 
fused by  the  Due.  The  Luxembourg  was  one  of  the  most 
gorgeous  and  magnificent  structures  in  Paris. 

At  Marly  I  examined  the  once  favorite  palace  of  Louis  XIV. 
The  walls  were  ornamented  with  the  rich  tapestry  of  the  Gob- 
lins, representing,  in  bright  colors,  the  feats  of  Don  Quixote. 
At  this  place  existed  the  complicated  and  heavy  machinery  for 
forcing  the  water  of  the  Seine  up  a  hill,  into  an  aqueduct,  car- 
rying it  seven  hundred  feet,  over  a  valley,  supported  by  thirty- 


92  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

nine  arches,  which  conducts  it  towards  Versailles.  The  gar- 
dens of  Marly  are  very  spacious,  situated  between  two  hills, 
the  sides  of  which  appear  to  be  covered  with  natural  shrub- 
bery and  groves.  In  these  groves,  as  well  as  in  the  garden,  are 
cascades,  fountains,  and  statues.  The  artificial  cascades  are 
very  beautiful  and  magnificent. 

Having  been  invited  to  the  wedding  of  Mr.  Williams,  our 
American  Agent  at? "Nantes,  and,  I  think,  the  nephew  of  Doct. 
Franklin,  which  was  to  be  celebrated  at  St.  Germain's,  twelve 
miles  from  Paris,  I  proceeded  to  Passy  on  foot,  to  accompany 
the  ambassador,  on  the  occasion.  He  was  entering  his  carriage 
in  the  courtyard  when  I  arrived,  and  Mr.  Williams  and  myself 
were  supplied  with  saddle-horses  from  his  stables.  Our  route 
led  us  by  the  Madrid  Palace,  (the  residence  of  Francis  L,  after 
his  return  from  Spain,)  and  through  the  beautiful  forest  of  the 
''  Bois  du  Boulogne."  We  crossed  the  Seine  by  a  fine  stone 
bridge,  and  traversed  a  long  stretch  of  woodland,  where  the 
king  often  hunts  ;  and,  after  ascending,  by  a  paved  road,  up  a 
steep  acclivity,  from  whence  we  commanded  a  most  enchant- 
ing view,  we  reached  the  residence  of  Mr.  Alexander,  the  father 
of  the  bride,  at  St.  Germain's.  Here  I  dined  with  Dr.  Frank- 
lin, the  Mayor  of  Nantes,  and  other  distinguished  guests ;  and 
after  dinner  visited  the  palace,  long  the  residence  of  James  II., 
in  his  exile,  and  a  favorite  retreat  of  Louis  XIV.,  as  well  as  of 
the  present  royal  family.  The  gardens  are  magnificent ;  and 
the  noblest  promenade  in  Europe,  probably,  is  on  the  grand 
terrace,  upon  the  summit  of  the  hill.  The  river  Seine  mean- 
ders at  the  base  of  the  mountain.  Five  thousand  acres  of 
woodland  spreads  along  the  valley,  studded  here  and  there 
with  villages.  Mr.  Alexander  was  formerly  an  eminent  banker 
in  Scotland  ;  a  man  of  distinguished  talents,  and  on  terms  of 
intimacy  with  Dr.  Franklin.  He  was  regarded  here  as  a  secret 
emissary  of  the  British  Government. 

The  Sunday  following  I  again  dined  with  Dr.  Franklin,  in  a 
numerous  mixed  company  of  Americans,  and  literary  and  mili- 
tary men  of  France  :  all  equally  admiring  this  wonderful  man 
— eminent  almost  equally  as  a  statesman  and  a  philosopher. 


98 


After  dinner  I  proceeded,  with  the  young  gentlemen,  to  the 
highly-celebrated  gardens  and  palace  of  St.  Cloud.  They  are 
near  the  Seine,  and  belonged  to  the  Duke  of  Orleans.  There 
were  many  fine  paintings  in  the  galleries  ;  but  my  attention  was 
more  directed  to  the  beautiful  garden,  filled  with  cascades,  jets 
d'eau  from  the  mouths  of  animals,  throwing  it  even  to  the  tops 
of  the  lofty  elms,  and  the  broad  alleys,  filled  with  gay  assem- 
blages. On  our  return  to  Paris  we  passed  the  Elysian  Fields, 
formed  by  four  spacious  avenues,  through  noble  elms,  and  each 
thronged  by  the  giddy  population  of  Paris,  embracing  all  ranks 
and  conditions.  Some  were  dancing  in  circles,  indiscrimi- 
nately mingled,  to  the  music  of  the  violin.  Sunday  was  the  hey- 
day of  French  enjoyment,  a  day  of  recreation  and  pleasure. 
In  the  morning  they  devoutly  attended  Mass,  and  devoted  the 
rest  of  the  day  to  the  theatre,  ball,  and  every  other  species  of 
amusement.* 

In  the  suburbs  of  Paris  I  was  conducted  into  a  subterranean 
labyrinth,  the  construction  of  which  tradition  imputes  to  the 
Romans,  in  their  labors  to  obtain  stone  for  building  purposes. 
I  wandered  two  hours  by  torch-light  in  this  deep  and  dark 
abyss.  Brilliant  and  sparkling  petrefactions  hung,  like  icicles, 
from  the  roof  and  sides. 

Having  received  the  despatches  for  America,  both  from  Dr. 
Franklin  and  the  French  Government,  I  proceeded,  Sept.  25th, 
1779,  on  my  return  to  Nantes,  accompanied  by  my  interpreter. 
By  the  advice  of  Dr.  Franklin  I  returned  by  the  way  of  Orleans, 
along  the  banks  of  the  Loire,  which  he  represented  to  be  the 
most  interesting  and  charming  route  in  Europe. 

The  road  from  Paris  to  Orleans,  a  distance  of  ninety-four 
miles,  was  a  continued  pavement,  formed  by  large  blocks  of 
stone.  The  country  is  level  generally,  and  no  trees  or  bushes 
intercepting  the  prospect,  our  view  extended  as  far  as  the  eye 

*  I  have  noticed  a  striking  condescension  and  courtesy,  of  the  rich  and  power- 
ful in  France,  in  their  intercourse  with  the  lower  classes.  Sailors,  soldiers,  and 
servants,  appear  to  be  on  the  most  familiar  terms  with  their  officers  and  masters. 
These  manners,  undoubtedly,  are  formed  by  the  warm  and  benevolent  feelings 
of  the  French  people. 


94  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REYOLUTION  ; 

could  reach,  over  boundless  vineyards  and  wheat  fields.  There 
being  no  fences  along  the  road,  the  grapes  hung  in  delicious  clus- 
ters within  our  reach  the  whole  day.  This  apparent  liberality 
to  the  traveller,  secures  the  interior  of  the  vineyards  from  dep- 
^redation.  Would  not  the  farmers  of  America  be  profited  by 
adopting  this  wise  and  benevolent  pohcy,  and  planting  fruit- 
trees  along  the  margin  of  the  roads  ? 

Over  this  extensive  prospect,  we  saw  the  vineyards  every- 
where dotted  with  peasants,  staggering  under  their  loads  of 
grapes,  which  they  bear  in  large  baskets  upon  their  backs. 
The  peasantry  of  France  possess  no  property,  and  are  but  a  lit- 
tle elevated  above  the  condition  of  serfs.  They  live  on  "  soup 
maigre,"  coarse  black  bread,  and  a  small  wine  about  equal  to 
cider.  Yet  they  are  always  cheerful,  and  sing  and  dance  over 
the  cares  and  troubles  of  life,  with  light  hearts  and  half-filled 
stomachs. 

The  forest  of  Orleans  contains  the  largest  territory  occupied 
as  woodland,  in  the  kingdom.  It  embraces  about  fifteen  thou- 
sand acres,  and  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  who,  it  is  said) 
realizes  about  $20,000  annually,  from  the  sale  of  decaying 
wood.  We  rode  through  part  of  this  forest,  towards  the  close 
of  the  day,  and  I  felt  myself  almost  restored  to  the  woodlands 
of  America. 

In  France,  wood  is  used  for  fuel,  almost  universally.  The 
forests  of  the  kingdom  are  under  municipal  regulation,  so  as  to 
secure  the  growth  of  wood  equal  to  the  consumption  of  the 
country.  The  cuttings  of  the  vineyards  in  the  autumn,  affords 
a  considerable  supply  of  fuel  to  the  peasantry.  Even  in  this 
glowing  and  rich  region  of  France,  I  noticed  the  unmitigated 
prevalence  of  street  beggars  and  vagrants. 

Near  Orleans,  at  the  small  village  of  Pont  Morant,  commen- 
ces the  Orleans  canal,  which  connects  the  Seine  with,  the 
Loire,  by  a  water  communication  of  thirty  miles.  Its  construc- 
tion began  in  1675.  It  forms  a  junction  with  the  Burgundy 
canal,  near  tbe  town  of  Mont  Garnis.  The  latter  also  connects 
the  above  mentioned  rivers.      In  high  water,  fleets  of  large 


OB,  MEMOIES   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  95 

boats  ascend  the  Loire  from  Nantes,  and  proceed  by  the  Or- 
leans canal  to  Paris.  Before  seeing  the  canal,  which  was  the 
first  I  ever  examined,  I  had  my  attention  turned  to  the  subject 
of  the  French  canals,  by  Dr.  Franklin.  In  relation  to  the 
great  canal  of  Languedoc,  which  unites  the  Bay  of  Biscay 
with  the  Mediterranean,  he  informed  me  that  it  w^as  projected 
by  Riquet,  in  1661,  and  cost  two  millions  of  crowns;  it 
is  conveyed  by  aqueducts  over  deep  valleys,  and  in  one  place 
is  conducted  along  the  side  of  a  mountain,  being  supplied  in  its 
course  by  large  reservoirs,  constructed  on  the  tops  of  the 
mountains.  It  passes  through  one  mountain  by  an  artificial 
tunnel  of  seven  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  It  is  six  hundred 
and  thirty-nine  feet  high  at  the  summit  level,  and  descends 
towards  the  Mediterranean  by  a  flight  of  forty-five  locks.  Hav. 
ing  derived  immense  benefit  from  this  stupendous  work,  the 
government  (Dr.  Franklin  informed  me)  had  in  contemplation 
the  construction  of  other  similar  works,  at  the  close  of  the 
war. 

Orleans  was  a  large  city,  containing  many  elegant  public  and 
private  buildings,  but  its  streets  were  filthy,  badly  paved,  and 
narrow.  It  was  the  great  emporium  of  East  and  West  Indian 
goods,  and  of  wheat,  wine,  and  brandy,  for  the  Paris  market. 
The  principal  manufactures  of  the  city,  are  silk  and  woollen 
goods,  and  leather.  Here  occurred  the  wonderful  events  that 
illustrate  the  name  of  the  Maid  of  Orleans.  A  monument, 
erected  to  her  memory,  occupies  one  of  the  public  squares  in 
this  city,  and  bears  an  enthusiastic  inscription. 

Between  Orleans  and  Blois,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  the 
country  is  elevated  and  level.  Occasionally,  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  Loire,  gemmed  by  its  numerous  islands,  was  displayed. 
The  whole  region  was  a  continuous  vineyard,  whence  le- 
gions of  peasantry,  old  and  young,  male  and  female,  were  issu- 
ing, bearing  their  delicious  burthens. 

Blois  is  a  celebrated  and  venerable  city,  standing  on  both 
banks  of  the  Loire.  It  was  then  extensively  engaged  in  the 
silk  manufacture,  and  the  exportation  to  Nantes  of  wines  and 
brandies.     In  the  evening  the  city  was  brilliantly  illuminated 


yb  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION ; 

on  account  of  the  capture  of  Grenada  by  Count  D'Estaing^ 
Whilst  detained  at  the  door  of  the  post-house,  my  interpreter 
dropped  a  hint  to  some  of  the  bystanders,  that  I  was  a  young 
"  Bostone,"  just  arrived  from  North  America.  In  afew  mo- 
ments I  was  surrounded  by  a  crowd,  gazing  at  me  with  great 
interest.  So  strong  and  universal  was  the  feeling  in  France,  ex. 
cited  by  our  Revolution.  Some  young  women  brought  baskets 
loaded  with  delicious  fruit,  which  they  pressed  upon  me.  After 
remaining  at  Blois  part  of  the  evening,  to  witness  the  illumi- 
nation, we  started  by  a  bright  moonlight,  and  in  conformity  to 
general  custom,  determined  to  travel  all  night.  In  addition  to 
the  fruit  the  kind  girls  had  supplied  us,  we  provided  a  few 
stores,  and  entered  on  the  famous  causeway  (levee).  We  gal- 
loped the  whole  night  along  this  wonderful  artificial  road,  which 
is  elevated  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  adja- 
cent meadows  and  river.  It  is  designed  for  two  carriages  to  go 
abreast,  and  extends  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  parallel  to  the 
Loire,  and  on  its  very  banks.  On  our  right,  we  could  see,  by 
the  bright  moonlight,  a  valley  of  from  a  half  to  two  miles  wide, 
bounded  by  a  range  of  undulating  hills,  their  sides  bespangled 
with  lights  from  the  cottages,  and  cultivated  with  wheat  and 
interspersed  with  vineyards.  The  valleys  are  devoted  to  flax, 
hemp,  and  meadows. 

Nothing  could  be  more  delightful  than  this  journeying  by 
moonlight,  in  a  serene  night.  It  was  far  more  interesting  than  by 
day,  although  we  were  deprived  of  a  view  of  distant  objects.  A 
large  glass  in  front  of  our  carriage,  and  two  side  glasses,  afforded 
every  convenience  for  observation.  We  often  saw  whole  fleets 
of  loaded  shallops,  with  their  broad  sails,  ascending  the  river 
before  a  light  breeze,  and  half  concealed  by  the  mist.  The 
moon,  at  the  same  time,  shedding  its  quivering  light  on  the 
surface  of  the  river,  the  exhalations  on  the  land  obscuring  our 
prospect,  and  rendering  the  objects  indistinct,  produced  a 
pleasing  and  complicated  scenery. 

About  six  miles  from  the  large  city  of  Tours,  I  was  surprised 
to  see  smoke  issuing  from  the  tops  and  sides  of  a  chain  of 
rocky  hills,  running  parallel  to  the  road,  and  people  issuing 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  97 

from  doors  at  their  base.  Curiosity  impelled  me  to  stop  and 
examine  the  mystery.  We  were  conducted  into  the  body  of 
the  hills,  in  several  places,  and  found  many  apartments  hand- 
somely furnished,  and  in  one  instance,  a  church  hewn  out  of 
the  soft  freestone.  In  some  places  we  noticed  rooms  cut  out  of 
the  hard  rock.  We  were  informed  the  excavations  extended 
seven  miles.  Popular  tradition  ascribes  this  stupendous  work 
to  the  Romans,  who,  it  is  supposed,  constructed  it  as  a  depot 
and  a  refuge,  if  required.  We  remained  at  Tours  only  to  pro- 
vide a  relay,  and  hurried  along  vine-clad  hills,  through  villages, 
and  in  sight  of  venerable  fortresses,  ancient  towns,  and  noble- 
men's seats,  to  Angers.  There  I  found  several  gentlemen 
from  Boston,  acquiring  the  French  language,  and  moving  in 
the  best  circles.  I  reached  Nantes  on  the  28th  of  September, 
and  delivered  my  dispatches  on  board  the  "  Mercury,"  which 
had  been  detained  for  them. 

I  determined  to  establish,  in  that  city,  a  mercantile  house, 
although  sustained  by  few  advantages,  either  of  connection  or 
capital,  and  almost  ignorant  of  the  French  language.  I  invested 
the  funds  which  had  been  intrusted  to  me  in  goods,  and  pur- 
chased an  equal  amount  on  my  own  credit,  and  was  fortunate. 
The  result  was  propitious.  1  also  transmitted  circulars  to  all 
the  ports  in  America,  in  which  I  had  formed  personal  acquaint- 
ances. Thus  commenced  my  commercial  career,  which,  in 
three  years,  enabled  me  to  rear  up  an  establishment  equal  to 
any  in  the  city  for  respectability,  and  known  throughout  Ame- 
rica and  in  Europe  for  the  extent  of  our  operations. 


98  MEN   AND   TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 


CHAPTER    X. 

Ancinis — Invasion  of  England — Importance  of  the  American  Revolution — 
Wedding — Wooden  Shoes — Peasantry — Dancing — Degradation  of 
the  People — Effects  of  the  Revolution — Musical  taste — Taking  the 
Veil — Letter  from  John  Adams — Count  D'Artois — Regal  Hunt- 
ing— Royal  Privileges. 

I  DETERMINED,  Oil  a  recovcry  from  a  severe  sickness,  in 
which,  for  many  days,  I  had  trembled  upon  the  verge  of  eter- 
nity, to  devote  the  winter  to  the  study  of  the  language,  and  for 
that  purpose  connected  myself  with  the  college  at  Ancinis, 
twenty-four  miles  from  Nantes.  My  letters  gave  me  intimate 
access  to  the  first  society  of  the  city,  and  in  consequence 
afforded  me  an  excellent  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people. 

I  arrived  at  the  college  late  in  the  night,  and  retired  to  my 
room,  without  even  having  an  interview  with  tlie  President- 
At  an  early  hour,  a  professor  entered  my  apartments,  and  com- 
menced his  first  lesson  in  French.  I  was  then  conducted  to 
the  Refectory,  where  we  had  an  excellent  breakfast  on  bread 
and  butter,  white  wine,  meat,  and  onions.  I  was  placed  next 
the  officers.  They  all  crossed  themselves,  and  regarded  me, 
doubtless,  as  a  forlorn  heretic.  The  professors  and  students 
were  unremitting  in  their  efforts  to  promote  my  progress  and 
comfort.  In  a  few  weeks  I  found  myself  rapidly  advancing  in 
the  attainment  of  the  language.  A  room,  board,  tuition,  and  wash- 
ing, were  supplied  me  at  an  annual  charge  only  of  about  8150. 

On  my  first  arrival  in  France,  the  public  mind  was  highly 
elated  by  the  belief  that  a  combined  French  and  Spanish  fleet 
of  seventy-six  sail,  under  D'Orvillier,  was  blockading  the  Brit- 
ish fleet  in  Plymouth,  and  that  sixty  thousand  troops  had  as- 
sembled in  the  vicinity  of  Havre,  to  co-operate  with  the  fleet 
in  the  invasion  of  England.     Under  all  these  favorable  aspects, 


OR,  MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  09 

no  one  doubted  but  that  the  British  fleet,  at  least,  would  be  an- 
nihilated. But,  alas !  the  iVrdent,  of  sixty-four  guns,  was 
captured,  and  the  combined  fleet  returned  into  Brest,  with 
eight  thousand  of  their  crews  sick.  I  confess  my  spirit  of  retal- 
iation was  gratified,  in  noticing  in  the  English  papers,  accounts 
of  the  alarm  excited  by  these  movements  on  the  coast  of  Eng- 
land, and  of  the  inhabitants  seeking  security  in  the  interior. 
Such  spectacles  of  distress  I  had  often  witnessed  in  America, 
when  the  people  were  fleeing  from  the  violence  and  cruelty  of 
England's  hireling  armies.  I  formerly  supposed  that  we  at- 
tached too  much  importance  to  our  revolution,  in  considering 
it  the  cause  of  man,  and  that  it  was  preparing  an  asylum  for 
the  oppressed  and  persecuted  of  all  nations  ;  but  the  more  1  re- 
flect, and  the  more  I  regard  the  opinions  of  older  heads,  the 
stronger  my  conviction  becomes  of  the  truth  of  this  solemn . 
and  animating  thought. 

For  two  centuries,  an  ineffectual  struggle  has  been  main- 
tained, to  fasten  upon  some  corner  of  Europe  the  principles  of 
liberty,  but  the  bayonets  of  a  million  of  mercenaries  have  se- 
cured the  thrones  of  European  despots.  Freedom,  established 
and  maintained  in  America,  in  a  more  liberal  age,  may  diffuse 
her  influence  over  Europe. 

England  has  fairly  rocked  us  out  of  her  cradle,  a  sleeping 
infant ;  she  may  soon  find  us  an  armed  giant.  Should  I  live 
to  the  age  prescribed  to  man,  I  have  no  doubt  but  I  shall  wit- 
ness America  standing  in  the  first  rank  among  the  nations  of 
the  earth.  Many  of  my  countrymen  dread  the  magnitude  of 
the  debt,  the  price  of  our  independence.  When,  however,  we 
cast  our  eyes  upon  the  vast  regions  of  the  exuberant  interior, 
that  debt  will  dwindle  into  a  shadow,  compared  with  the  avails 
of  the  miUions  of  fertile  acres,  which  have  never  yet  been  dis- 
turbed by  a  plough. 

I  accompanied  our  good  Abbe  to  witness  a  country  wedding. 
We  entered  the  cottage  at  the  verge  of  evening,  and  found 
the  wooden-shoe  gentry  collected,  and  merrily  dancing,  and 
singing  as  a  substitute  for  liie  violin,  with  light  hearts  and 
heavy  heels.     The  Abbe  and  myself  soon  figured  in  the  dan- 


100  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  KEVOLUTION  ; 

cing  circle,  composed  of  old  and  young,  indiscriminately  mixed. 
Madam  bride  in  her  sabots,  or  wooden  shoes,  was  only  dis- 
tinguished by  a  boquet,  which  her  swain,  in  great  gallantry, 
placed  over  her  heart.  Their  manner  of  dancing  is  much  like 
that  of  the  Indians  of  America,  but  more  animated.  We 
stamped  around,  hand-and-hand,  all  singing  a  dancing  tune, 
advancing  and  retiring,  and  at  the  close  of  every  cadence,  giv- 
ing a  general  yell,  their  wooden  shoes  clattering  the  while  in 
concert. 

After  the  dancing  I  was  surrounded  by  the  whole  group, 
when  they  heard  I  was  a  "  Boston^,"  but  they  were  greatly 
astonished,  that  although  I  had  a  head  and  tongue  like  their 
own,  I  could  not  talk  French.  The  bridegroom  led  the  bride 
through  the  crowd,  and  introduced  her  with  "  viola  ma  femme.^' 
I  gave  her  a  hearty  American  smack,  which  excited  a  shout  of 
merriment  from  all,  at  finding,  although  dumb,  I  was  not  in- 
sensible, and  they  soon  learned  that  in  the  discussion  of  their 
rustic  viands,  I  could  play  a  game  of  the  knife  and  fork  with 
the  best  of  them.  We  remained  dancing  and  laughing  until 
midnight,  as  much  amused  as  if  I  had  spent  the  night  in  a  "  bon 
ton"  circle  at  Versailles.  Indeed,  while  dancing,  I  could  not 
refrain  from  the  mental  inquiry — are  not  these  humble  and  illit- 
erate peasants  to  be  envied  rather  than  pitied  ?  Philosophy 
would  not  hesitate  to  decide.  If  happiness  depends  upon  free- 
ness  from  care  and  buoyancy  of  heart,  the  French  peasantry 
have  the  advantage  of  every  other  race.  Ambition  they  have 
none  ;  they  aspire  to  nothing  but  what  they  possess.  Their 
cottage,  their  wives  and  children,  black  bread,  and  the  "petite 
vin  du  pays.'' 

The  ignorance  and  degradation  of  the  peasants  of  France, 
deprived  of  the  rights  of  freehold  property,  shut  out  from  rank 
in  the  army  and  navy,  living  on  the  coarsest  fare,  and  the  mere 
slaves  of  a  proud  noblesse  and  corrupt  clergy,  must  strike 
every  liberal  mind  as  the  worst  political  feature  of  the  in- 
stitutions of  France.* 

*  (1821.)  Since  that  day,  a  revolution  has  passed  over  France,  like  a  deluge 
of  blood  and  woe,  directed  by  the  destroying  angel,  involving  in  one  common 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  101 

I  have  frequently  observed,  in  private  genteel  circles,  some 
one  of  the  gentlemen  playing  on  the  violin,  to  a  dancing  circle, 
himself  being  one  of  the  dancers  ;  but  I  was  truly  delighted  to 
see,  at  Chateuse,  near  Ancinis,  an  elegant  young  lady  take  up 
a  violin  and  play  to  admiration,  whilst  she  performed  most 
gracefully  in  the  dance.  Almost  every  Frenchman  is  an  adept 
at  some  musical  instrument. 

In  my  wanderings  about  the  country,  a  friend  conducted  me 
on  one  occasion  to  the  cottage  of  a  peasant,  who  supported  a 
family  of  seven  persons,  on  his  wages  of  only  twelve  sous 
(equal  to  twelve  cents)  per  diem,  and  paid  to  his  majesty 
twenty  livres  ($4)  a  year.  They  subsist  on  black  bread  and 
vegetables,  and  in  carnival,  once  a  year,  enjoy  a  small  portion 
of  meat.  Yet  content  and  happiness  marked  the  features  of 
all. 

Whilst  at  Ancinis  I  witnessed  the  ceremony  of  taking  the 
veil.  The  process,  and  my  own  feelings  in  witnessing  it,  will 
be  exhibited  in  the  following  extract  from  a  letter  written  at 
the  time,  to  my  sister  in  America : — 

"  I  was  an  eye-witness  to  a  very  solemn  ceremony  at  the  Convent 
yesterday— the  admission  of  a  nun.  I  was  admitted  into  the  Chapel, 
with  many  spectators,  the  parents  and  brothers  of  the  girl  among  the 
number.  In  an  adjoining  gloomy,  dark  room,  with  a  heavy  arch,  I 
saw  through  ponderous  gratings,  forty-three  nuns,  ranged  in  lines, 
each  holding  a  lighted  torch,  and  singing  an  anthem,  that  echoed 
through  the  vaulted  rooms. 

"  After  prayer,  mass,  &c.,  a  new  pupil — a  fresh,  beautiful  young 
lady — came  into  the  same  apartment  with  the  nuns,  dressed  in  the 
most  gaudy,  fashionable  style.  The  grating  then  rolled  away,  by 
some  invisible  machinery,  and  the  young  lady  was  interrogated  by  a 

ruin  the  Royal  family,  the  Noblesse,  and  the  Clergy.  The  dynasty  of  the  Bour- 
bons has  been  again  imposed  on  France,  by  foreign  bayonets.  Still  great  good 
has  resulted  from  the  misery  and  violence  of  the  Revolution.  The  throne  is  restrict- 
ed, the  nobility  are  humbled,  the  clergy  are  curtailed  in  their  power  and  wealth,  and 
the  peasantry  are  elevated  in  their  condition,  and  secured  in  their  privileges.  The 
light  of  education,  to  some  extent,  is  diffused  among  them  ;  they  can  become  own- 
ers of  the  soil  they  till,  and  the  liberal  professions  are  opened  to  them.  Who  shall 
pronounce  that  the  bloody  ordeal  of  the  Revolution  has  not  left  France  elevated 
and  improved  1 


102  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

priest,  if  she  wished  to  renounce  the  world,  and  devote  herself  to 
Christ  and  the  Blessed  Virgin.  She  replied  in  the  affirmative,  and 
instantly  disappeared.  She  soon  after  re-appeared,  disrobed  of  her 
worldly  habiliments,  and  dressed  in  the  simple  garb  of  a  nun.  She 
then  made  her  solemn  vows,  and  was  admitted  on  probation. 

*'  Her  sister  then  presented  herself  in  the  dress  of  a  nun,  before  the 
awful  tribunal,  having  completed  her  probationary  year,  to  take  the 
vows  for  life.  It  was  her  choice,  and  her  parents,  with  a  crowd  of  re- 
lations, signed  their  approbation,  which  was  witnessed  on  the  records 
of  the  Convent,  by  myself  with  others.  My  God  !  is  it  possible  !  The 
unnatural  approbation  of  a  father  and  mother,  to  the  burial  of  two 
charming  daughters,  in  this  gloomy  retreat,  is  a  violation  of  the  laws 
of  God  and  nature.  After  the  performance  of  many  religious  rites, 
the  last  extended  herself  in  the  midst  of  the  chapel,  flat  upon  her  face, 
and  was  then  covered  by  two  of  the  nuns,  with  a  black  pall,  as  if  abso 
lutely  dead.  In  this  position  she  remained  half  an  hour,  whilst  the 
nuns"  addressed  hymns  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  recommending  the  new- 
sister  to  her  beneficence.  She  was  then  covered  with  a  black  veil, 
and  led  to  the  priest  at  the  grating,  where,  bathed  in  tears,  she  took 
leave  of  her  parents,  and  then  the  grating  closed  upon  her — '  the 
world  forgetting,  by  the  world  forgot.'  I  found  my  sensibility  se- 
verely tried,  by  this  affecting  and  novel  scene.  In  a  word,  I  was 
most  solemnly  amused.  A  deep  silence  succeeded  the  ceremony, 
like  the  stillness  of  the  grave." 

1  addressed  a  letter,  while  in  Ancinis,  to  John  Adams,  at 
Paris,  who  had  returned  from  America,  requesting  his  advice 
and  direction,  in  regard  to  my  movements  and  course  whilst  in 
Europe.  I  soon  received  a  reply,  which  is  subjoined,  which  was 
the  commencement  of  a  long  series  of  confidential  intercourse, 
both  personal  and  by  letter,  extending  over  a  period  of  more 
than  half  a  century,  marked,  on  his  part,  with  the  warmest 
kindness  and  cordiality,  and  on  mine,  by  the  deepest  venera- 
tion for  his  character  and  devoted  patriotism. 

"  Paris,  Hotel  de  Valois,  Eue  de  Richelieu, 

"  April  30th,  1780. 
*'  Sir  :— 

"Your  letter  of  the  16th  March  I  received  yesterday. 
Your  family  I  know  well  to  be  one  of  the  most  respectable  in  the 
county  of  Plymouth.     Your  father  I  had  the  honor  to  know  well. 


OR,   MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  108 


I  know,  too,  that  in  ancient  times  (for  I  must  speak  to  you  like  an 
old  man)  when  the  friends  to  the  American  cause  were  not  so  nu- 
merous, nor  so  determined  as  they  are  now,  we  always  found  your 
father  firm  and  consistent  as  a  friend  to  his  country.  This  I  knew 
for  more  than  ten  years  before  the  war  commenced,  and,  therefore,  I 
have  no  difficulty  in  believing  that  he  has  been,  since  that  period, 
uniformly  strenuous  in  support  of  Independence. 

"  You  tell  me.  Sir,  you  wish  to  cultivate  your  manners  before  you 
begin  your  travels,  and  since  you  have  had  so  much  confidence  in  me, 
as  to  write  me  on  this  occasion,  permit  me  to  take  the  liberty  of  ad- 
vising you  to  cultivate  the  manners  of  your  own  country,  not  those 
of  Europe.  I  don't  mean  by  this,  that  you  should  put  on  a  long  face, 
never  dance  with  the  ladies,  go  to  a  play,  or  take  a  game  of  cards. 
But  you  may  depend  upon  this,  the  more  decisively  you  adhere  to  a 
manly  simplicity  in  your  dress,  equipage  and  behavior,  the  more  you 
will  devote  yourself  to  business  and  study , and  the  less  to  dissipation  and 
pleasure — the  more  you  will  recommend  yourself  to  every  man  and 
woman  in  this  country,  whose  friendship  and  acquaintance  is  worth 
your  gaining  or  wishing.  There  is  an  urbanity,  without  ostenta- 
tion or  extravagance,  which  will  succeed  everywhere,  and  at  all 
times. 

"  You  will  excuse  this  freedom,  on  account  of  my  friendship  for 
your  father,  and  consequently  for  you,  and  because  Iknow  that  some 
young  gentlemen  have  come  to  Europe  with  different  sentiments,  and 
consequently  injured  the  character  of  their  country  at  home  and 
abroad. 

"  All  Europe  knows  that  it  was  American  manners  which  have  pro- 
duced such  great  effects  in  that  young  and  tender  country.  I  shall 
be  happy  to  meet  you  in  Paris,  and  receive  any  intelligence  from 
America. 

"  I  am,  &c., 

"  JOHN  ADAMS. 

"Mr.  Elkanah  Watson, Ancinis." 

In  September,  1780,  I  accompanied  my  former  ship  captain, 
Sampson,  to  Paris,  by  the  road  I  travelled  on  a  former  occasion. 
We  noticed  near  Paris  a  novel  mode  of  hunting.  The  Count 
D'Artois,  with  several  royal  bloods,  we  saw  riding  leisurely 
along,  upon  the  neighboring  hills,  whilst  a  concourse  of  people 
were  tracing  the  woods,  and  a  line  of  soldiers  firing  away  with 
as  much  industry  as  if  in  pursuit  of  an  enemy  in  ambush,  in- 


104:  MEN  AND  TIMES  OP  THE  REVOLUTION; 

stead  of  shooting  hares  and  partridges,  starting  up  on  every 
side.  I  observed  formerly,  that  partridges  were  almost  as  tame 
as  domestic  fowls  in  the  vicinity  of  Paris.  The  galleys  are  the 
doom  of  any,  except  those  of  the  blood  royal,  who  shoots  one, 
even  on  the  highway.  Blessed  America !  there  we  know  no 
nobles  but  the  nobles  of  nature. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKA-NAH  WATSON.  105 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Rennes — Moreau — Customs — Fashionable  Dinner— Tom  Paine — Contest 
with  a  Priest — Louis  Littlepage — Journey  to  Paris — Country  Cure — 
Monks  of  La  Trappe — Mrs.  Wright — Franklin's  Head — Anecdotes. 

The  winter  of  1780-81  I  passed  in  the  city  of  Rennes,  per- 
fecting myself  in  my  French.  It  contained  a  population  of 
about  sixty  thousand.  As  I  was  the  first  American  who  had 
visited  Rennes,  the  popular  curiosity  to  see  me  was  inconceiv- 
able, and  I  was  subsequently  assured,  by  the  most  intelligent 
and  refined  circles,  that  they  had  difficulty  in  detaching  the 
idea  of  a  savage  from  a  North  American.  I  had  repeatedly 
noticed  the  prevalence  of  this  ignorance  in  France,  of  the  con- 
dition of  America,  and  the  character  of  Americans.  When  I 
went  to  Ancinis,  I  arrived  at  the  College  at  night,  and  retired 
to  my  room  without  having  an  interview  with  the  officers. 
Early  in  the  morning,  many  of  the  students  entered  my  room, 
and  supposing  me  asleep,  cautiously,  one  after  another,  ap- 
proached my  bed,  and  drawing  aside  the  curtain,  gazed  at  me. 
I  afterwards  understood,  that  hearing  an  American  had  arrived 
at  the  College,  an  impression  at  once  prevailed  that  I  was  an 
American  Indian.  The  lady  of  the  Procureur  of  Rennes 
frankly  said  to  me,  that  she  was  greatly  surprised  when  I  was 
introduced  to  her,  as  she  had  supposed  the  North  Americans 
to  be  "  une  espece  du  sauvage." 

Rennes  was  the  capital  of  Brittany,  and  the  seat  of  the  Pro- 
vincial Parliament.  Brittany  having  been  united  by  treaty  to 
France,  retained  higher  privileges,  guaranteed  in  its  cession,  than 
any  other  province  of  France.  The  Parliament  was  elected  by 
the  people,  and  had  alone  the  power  of  levying  taxes.  The  King 
made  his  requisition,  which  may,  or  may  not  have  been  registered 
by  the  Parliament.  Brittany  was  exempt  from  a  duty  on  salt, 
which  was  a  most  oppressive  burthen  in  the  adjacent  provinces. 


106 


The  Loire  divides  Poitou  from  Brittany.  A  man  convicted 
of  smuggling  the  smallest  quantity  of  salt  across  the  river,  v\'as 
doomed  to  the  galleys  for  life. 

I  frequently  listened  to  the  debate  in  the  Parliament,  and 
was  astonished  to  hear  with  what  freedom  the  Representatives 
discussed  subjects  of  politics. 

I  was  on  familiar  terms,  at  Rennes,  with  several  young  gen- 
tlemen, law  students,  who  were  pursuing  their  professional 
studies.  I  met  the  celebrated  General  Moreau,  many  years 
afterwards  in  New- York,  and  was  surprised  to  find  that  he  was 
one  of  the  number,  and  recollected  the  circumstance  of  seeing 
me  at  Rennes. 

A  new  game  of  cards  had  been  introduced  into  the  fashion- 
able circles  at  Rennes,  which  they  called  Boston.  I  soon  per- 
ceived that  a  determined  spirit  of  gambling  entered  into  their 
purposes  ;  a  rock  that  I  have  always  shunned.  I  was  hard 
pressed  by  a  veteran  devotee  of  the  art  to  be  her  partner.  I 
protested,  in  vain,  my  ignorance  of  cards,  and  soon  convinced 
her,  to  our  mutual  loss,  of  the  sincerity  of  my  protestation. 
She  very  willingly  gave  me  up  as  bad  game. 

Rennes  was  a  highly  dissipated  place,  but  distinguished  for 
the  correctness  of  its  French  idiom.  My  object  in  selecting 
it,  was  to  attain  the  language  in  its  purity,  and  to  rub  off  my 
American  rust,  by  a  near  connection  with  the  polished  society 
of  France.  The  gentleness  and  elegance  of  French  manners 
can  only  be  attained,  I  am  persuaded,  by  a  domestic  French 
education.  The  ease  and  blandishment  of  their  manners,  are, 
no  doubt,  chiefly  attributable  to  the  gentleness  and  familiarity 
v/hich  mark  the  intercourse  between  children  and  parents. 
They  are  at  home,  the  joyous,  laughing  and  dancing  compan- 
ions of  eaclv  other.  I  have  more  than  once  seen  grandmothers 
dancing  in  the  same  circle  with  the  grandchildren.  In  Ame- 
rica, children  are  too  often  treated  with  an  austerity  and  re- 
serve that  closes  the  door  to  social  intercourse.  Schools  for 
manners  are  thus  enjoyed  in  France,  from  the  cradle.  To  be 
graceful,  is  an  essential  in  France,  from  the  Prince  to  the  pos- 
tillion. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  107 

The  death  of  the  Queen  of  Hungary  had  blackened  all 
France  and  Germany.  As  soon  as  I  had  supplied  myself  with 
mourning,  in  compliance  with  an  arbitrary  custom,  I  was  con- 
ducted by  a  French  colonel,  to  offer  my  respects  to  the  Mar- 
shal de  Biron,  Governor  of  the  Province.  We  were  admitted 
by  the  guards  into  an  elegant  palace,  and  entered  an  expansive 
circle  of  dukes,  governors,  bishops,  officers,  &c.,  and  among 
them  the  distinguished  Admiral  La  Motte  Piquet,  who  had  just 
returned  from  a  successful  cruise.  We  were  received  with 
marked  attention  and  civility.  I  observed,  during  this  levee, 
that  no  persons,  except  Bishops,  presumed  to  be  seated.  We 
accepted  an  invitation  to  dine  with  the  Marshal,  and  in  a  few 
moments  after  our  entrance,  a  folding-door  opened  on  one  side 
of  the  saloon  d'audience,  and  the  Duchess,  accompanied  by  her 
maids  of  honor,  and  other  ladies,  appeared.  Her  long  dress 
trailed  behind  her,  the  extremity  being  supported  by  two  little 
black  boys.  1  was  introduced  by  the  Governor  of  Belle  Isle 
to  the  Duchess.  The  etiquette  was,  to  advance  a  few  steps, 
with  chapeau-bras  under  the  left  arm,  and  make  a  profound 
bow.  A  long  sword  by  the  side,  was  an  indispensable  article 
of  dress  in  fashionable  society. 

Immediately,  on  her  appearance,  another  folding-door  on  the 
opposite  side  flew  open.  After  mutual  salutation  between  the 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  the  Duchess  continued  her  progress,  fol- 
lowed by  the  company,  through  several  apartments,  one  of 
which  was  occupied  by  the  life-guard  of  the  Marshal.  I  was 
amused  at  noticing  the  tactics  acquired  by  the  ladies,  in  pass- 
ing their  court-dresses  through  the  doors.  The  gentlemen  in 
escort  fall  back,  and  the  lady,  by  a  dexterous  cant  of  the  hoop, 
sideways,  effects  the  passage.  We  entered  a  spacious  dining 
hall,  cheered  by  an  elegant  Italian  band  of  music.  The  Gov- 
ernor of  Belle  Isle  was  placed  at  the  right  of  the  Marshal,  the 
Governor  of  Rennes  on  his  left,  and  myself  next  to  the  former. 
The  splendor,  elegance,  and  taste  of  the  occasion,  far  surpass- 
ed anything  I  had  ever  witnessed,  and  both  astonished  and  de- 
lighted me.     As  I  have  uniformly  remarked,  the  ladies  were 


108  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

intermixed  at  the  table,  and  fully  participated  in  the  table  con- 
versation, on  every  subject.  We  were  about  forty  at  table ; 
the  knives,  forks,  dishes,  tureens,  &c.,  were  all  of  massive  sil- 
ver. At  least  forty  different  dishes  were  served  up  in  succes- 
sive courses,  and  all  on  silver  utensils.  In  the  midst  of  the 
table  was  arranged  a  large  and  beautiful  representation  of  a 
flower-garden,  in  minature,  with  Liliputian  statues,  flowers, 
grottos,  artificial  cascades,  &c. 

By  a  spontaneous  movement,  we  left  the  table,  and  passed 
into  a  magnificent  adjoining  hall,  where  we  received  a  cup  of 
strong  coffee,  and  were  again  delighted  by  the  music  of  the 
band.  Madame  was  marked  in  her  attention  to  me,  and  plied 
me  with  delicious  dishes,  by  the  hands  of  a  little  pet  black  boy, 
always  at  her  elbow.  This  hall  commanded  a  view  of  a  de- 
lightful garden,  into  which  we  strolled,  each  directed  in  his 
movements  and  occupations  by  his  own  tastes.  We  were 
again  charmed  with  the  music  of  nature  from  an  aviary  in  the 
vicinity.  We  returned  to  the  hall  indiscriminately,  and  such 
as  were  disposed  took  themselves  oflf,  or  in  other  words,  took 
"  French  leave,"  without  ceremony.  This  is  an  excellent  cus- 
tom, which  I  trust  will  be  interwoven  into  our  improved  sys- 
tem of  American  manners  ;  they  are  now  too  frigid,  formal  and 
awkward — an  inheritance  derived  from  our  English  progeni- 
tors. 

On  my  return  to  Nantes,  1  was  half  French  in  everything, 
save  the  graces ;  these,  I  fear,  I  never  shall  possess.  They 
must  grow  with  your  growth,  for  they  never  can  be  wooed 
like  a  fair  lady. 

About  this  period,  the  notorious  Tom  Paine  arrived  at  Nantes, 
in  the  Alliance  frigate,  as  Secretary  of  Colonel  Laurens, 
Minister  Extraordinary  from  Congress,  and  took  up  his  quar- 
ters at  my  boarding-place.  He  was  coarse  and  uncouth  in  his 
manners,  loathsome  in  his  appearance ,  and  a  disgusting  egotist ; 
rejoicing  most  in  talking  of  himself,  and  reading  the  effusions 
of  his  own  mind.  Yet  I  could  not  repress  the  deepest  emotions 
of  gratitude  towards  him,  as  the  instrument  of  Providence  in 
accelerating  the  declaration  of  our  Independence.  He  certainly 


OR,    MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  "WATSON.  109 


was  a  prominent  agent,  in  preparing  the  public  sentiment  of 
America  for  that  glorious  event.  The  idea  of  Independence 
had  not  occupied  the  popular  mind,  and  when  guardedly  ap- 
proached on  the  topic,  it  shrunk  from  the  conception,  as  fraught 
with  doubt,  with  peril,  and  with  suffering. 

In  1776  I  was  present,  at  Providence,  Rhode  Island,  in  a  so- 
cial assembly  of  most  of  the  prominent  leaders  of  the  State. 
I  recollect  that  the  subject  of  independence  was  cautiously  in- 
troduced by  an  ardent  Whig,  and  the  thought  seemed  to  excite 
the  abhorrence  of  the  whole  circle. 

A  few  weeks  after,  Paine's  Common  Sense  appeared,  and 
passed  through  the  continent  like  an  electric  spark.  It  every- 
where flashed  conviction,  and  aroused  a  determined  spirit, 
which  resulted  in  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  upon  the 
4th  of  July  ensuing.  The  name  of  Paine  was  precious  to  every 
Whig  heart,  and  had  resounded  throughout  Europe. 

On  his  arrival  being  announced,  the  Mayor,  and  some  of  the 
most  distinguished  citizens  of  Nantes,  called  upon  him  to  ren- 
der their  homage  of  respect.  I  often  officiated  as  interpreter, 
although  humbled  and  mortified  at  his  filthy  appearance,  and 
awkward  and  unseemly  address.  Besides,  as  he  had  been 
roasted  alive  on  his  arrival  at  L'Orient,  for  the  *  *  *  * 
and  well  basted  with  brimstone,  he  was  absolutely  offensive, 
and  perfumed  the  whole  apartment.  He  was  soon  rid  of  his 
respectable  visitors,  who  left  the  room  with  marks  of  astonish- 
ment and  disgust.  I  took  the  liberty,  on  his  asking  for  the 
loan  of  a  clean  shirt,  of  speaking  to  him  frankly  of  his  dirty  ap- 
pearance and  brimstone  odor,  and  prevailed  upon  him  to  stew 
for  an  hour,  in  a  hot  bath.  This,  however,  was  not  done  with- 
out much  entreaty,-  and  I  did  not  succeed,  until,  receiving  a  file 
of  English  newspapers,  I  promised,  after  he  was  in  the  bath,  he 
should  have  the  reading  of  them,  and  not  before.  He  at  once 
consented,  and  accompanied  me  to  the  bath,  where  I  instructed 
the  keeper  in  French  (which  Paine  did  not  understand)  to 
gradually  increase  the  heat  of  the  water,  until  "  le  Monsieur 
etait  bien  bouilli."     He  became  so  much  absorbed  in  his  read- 


110  ME^  AND  TIMES  OP  THE   REVOLUTION; 

ing  that  he  tvas  nearly  par-boiled  before  leaving  the  bath, 
much  to  his  improvement  and  my  satisfaction. 

One  of  the  most  critical  and  remarkable  events  of  my  life 
occurred  in  the  month  of  March,  1781.  The  Marshal  de  Cas- 
tries, the  Minister  of  Marine,  was  passing  through  Nantes,  on 
his  way  to  Brest,  for  the  purpose  of  dispatching  the  Count  De 
Grasse  with  the  fleet,  which  subsequently  acted  with  so  much 
efficiency  against  Cornwallis. 

Half  the  population  of  the  city,  prompted  by  their  curiosity, 
poured  in  a  torrent  beyond  the  gates,  to  meet  the  Marshal  and 
his  retinue.  I  threw  myself  into  this  living  current.  As  soon 
as  the  "  avant  courier"  appeared  in  the  distance,  the  immense 
crowd  paraded  on  either  side  of  the  road.  At  the  moment  the 
minister  and  his  retinue  approached,  a  little  bell  tinkled  on  the 
opposite  side,  in  directing  the  passage  of  the  "Bon  Dieu,"  en- 
closed in  a  silver  vase,  and  held  by  a  Catholic  priest,  on  his 
way  to  administer  the  Sacrament  to  a  dying  believer.  The 
bell  was  held  by  a  small  boy,  who  preceded  the  sacred  proces- 
sion ;  four  men  supported  a  canopy  over  the  priest's  head,  and 
forty  or  fifty  stupid  peasants,  in  wooden  shoes,  followed.  Cus- 
tom obliged  all  to  kneel,  as  this  venerated  "  Bon  Dieu,"  passed 
by ;  but  on  this  occasion,  most  of  the  spectators,  owing  to  the 
deep  mud,  leaned  on  their  canes,  with  hats  in  their  hands,  in  a 
respectful  posture.  The  couriers  checked  their  horses — the 
carriages  stopped,  and  all  were  thrown  into  confusion  by  the 
unfortunate  presence  of  the  "  Bon  Dieu."  At  this  moment 
the  priest,  as  if  impelled  by  the  spirit  of  malice,  halted  the  pro- 
cession, and  stopped  the  host  directly  in  front  of  the  place 
where  I  stood,  and  to  my  utter  amazement,  pointing  directly  at 
me  with  his  finger,  exclaimed,  "  aux  genoux,"  (upon  your  knees). 
I  pointed,  in  vain,  to  the  mud,  and  the  position  of  those  about  me 
similar  to  my  own.  He  again  repeated,  in  a  voice  of  thunder* 
"  aux  genoux."  My  Yankee  blood  flamed  at  this  wanton  attack, 
I  forgot  myself,  and,  with  a  loudv  oice,  replied  in  French,  ''  no 
sir,  I  will  not."  The  populace,  thunderstruck  to  see  their  "  Bon 
Dieu"  thus  insulted,  fired  with  fanaticism,  broke  their  ranks, 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  HI 

and  were  pressing  towards  me,  with  violent  imprecations.  A 
German  gentleman,  an  acquaintance,  and  then  at  my  side,  ex- 
claimed to  me,  "  for  God's  sake,  drop  in  an  instant."  Alarmed 
at  my  critical  situation,  I  reluctantly  settled  my  knees  into  a 
mud-puddle.  Every  one  within  my  hearing  who  were  respect- 
able, Catholics  and  Protestants,  condemned  the  rash  and  in- 
excusable conduct  of  the  priest. 

My  keenest  sensibilities  were  outraged,  and  I  vowed  ven- 
geance upon  the  audacious  priest.     The  next  afternoon,  I  set 
off,  armed  with  a  good  hickory,  to  trace  out  his  residence,  and 
to  effect  my  determination.     I  proceeded  to  the  spot  where  the 
offence  had  been  committed,  entered  the  hut  of  a  peasant,  and 
inquired  the  name   of   the  priest  who,   the  day  before,    had 
passed  with  the  "  Bon   Dieu."     He  replied,  "  ma  foi,  oui,  ce 
Monsieur  Barage,"  (yes,  faith,  it   is  M.  Barage.)     He  pointed 
to  the  steeple  of  the  church  where  he  officiated,  near  the  sub- 
urbs of  the  city.     I  soon  found  his  house,  and  pulled  a  bell- 
rope.      A    good-looking,   middle-aged     woman,     the     house- 
keeper, soon  appeared.     Contrary  to  her  interdiction,  I  sprung 
into  the  court-yard,  and  proceeded  directly  to  the  house,  and 
made   my   way  to  his  library.      The   priest    soon  appeared, 
demanded  my  business,  exclaiming,  "that  I  was  a  murderer  or 
robber,"  and  ordered  me  to  quit  his  house.    I  sprung  to  the  door, 
locked  it,  and  placing  the  key  in   my  pocket,  approached  him 
in  a  hostile  attitude.     I  compelled  him  to  admit  that  he  re- 
cognized my  features.      I  then  poured  forth  my  detestation  of 
him,  and  of  the  tyranny  of  the  French  clergy.     I  told  him  I  was 
a  native  of  North  America,   the  ally  of  France ;  that  I  was 
under  the  protection  of  Dr.  Franklin,  and  would  not  leave  him 
until  I  had  received  adequate  remuneration  for  the  unprovoked 
insult  I  had  received.     In  a  word,  I  insisted  upon  his  apologiz- 
ing to  me,  in  the  same  posture  in  which  I  had  been  placed.     In 
taking  my  leave,  I  assured  him  I  should  proceed  with  the  Ame- 
rican Consul,  and  enter  my  formal  complaint  against  him  to  the 
Bishop.  This  threat  alarmed  him,  and  he  fervently  urged  my  for- 
bearance.   I  went,  however,  immediately  to  our  Consul,  Colonel 
Williams,  and  communicated  to  him  these  incidents.      He  ap- 


112  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

prised  me  of  tlie  extreme  clanger  I  should  be  subjected  to  from 
the  hostihty  of  the  priests,  and  admonished  me,  as  the  safest 
course,  to  prosecute  the  affair  no  further.  By  his  advice,  and 
ttjat  of  Tom  Paine,  I  changed  my  lodgings,  and  for  two  or  three 
weeks  avoided  the  streets.  No  further  unpleasant  consequence 
resulted  from  this  extraordinary  occurrence.* 

Although  1  escaped  with  impunity  on  this  occasion,  it  is  far 
from  my  wish  to  inculcate  a  spirit  of  opposition  to  established 
forms  of  I'eligion  in  any  country.  It  is  at  best  a  dangerous 
business,  and  one  treads  among  thorns  and  pit-falls. 

During  my  residence  at  Nantes,  I  became  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  one  of  the  most  remarkable  characters  of  the 
age.  Louis  Littlepagef  arrived  at  Nantes  in  the  winter  of 
1779-80,  on  his  way  to  Madrid,  under  the  peculiar  patronage 
of  Mr.  Jay,  our  stern  and  able  ambassador  at  the  court  of 
Spain.  He  was  then  a  mere  youth,  of  a  fine  manly  figure, 
with  a  dark,  penetrating  black  eye,  and  a  physiognomy  pecu- 
liar and  striking.  At  that  early  period  he  was  esteemed  a 
prodigy  of  genius  and  acquirements.  When  I  again  heard  of 
him,  he  had  separated  himself  from  Mr.  Jay's  family,  and  en- 
tered as  a  volunteer  and  aid  to  the  Due  de  Ciellon,  at  the  siege 
of  Minorca.  At  the  a  ttack  on  Gibraltar,  he  was  on  board  of 
one  of  the  floating  batteries,  and  was  blown  up,  but  saved. 
Young  Littlepage  participated,  in  a  conspicuous  manner,  in 
the  thrilling  incidents  of  that  memorable  siege. 

*  I  have  repeatedly  heard  the  late  Colonel  Elisha  Jenkins,  of  Albany,  former- 
ly Comptroller  of  the  State,  who  was  in  Nantes,  soon  after  the  occurrence  of  the 
above  incidents,  advert  to  them.  He  stated  that  the  subject  was  a  familiar 
topic  of  conversation  in  that  city,  during  his  residence  there. — Editor. 

t  Louis  Littlepage  was  the  son  of  Colonel  James  Littlepage  of  Hanover,  who 
married  Betty  (sometimes  called  Elizabeth)  Lewis,  daughter  of  Zachary  Lewis, 
Senior,  of  Spottsylvania  county,  Virginia. 

Louis  Littlepage  was  appointed  by  the  late  King  of  Poland,  Chamberlain  and 
confidential  Secretary  in  his  cabinet,  and  was  created  by  him  a  Knight  of  the 
Order  of  St.  Stanislaus.  He  acted  as  the  King's  Special  Envoy  in  important  ne- 
gotiations. When  the  unfortunate  Stanislaus  Augustus  was  sent  a  prisoner  to 
St.  Petersburgh,  after  the  dismemberment  of  his  kingdom,  General  Littlepage 
wished  to  accompany  him,  but  was  separated  from  him  at  Grodno,  and  prohibited 
from  going  further  hy  the  expres  orders  of  the  Empress. 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON  ll3 

Whilst  at  Gibraltar,  I  held  a  familiar  correspondence  with 
him.  After  his  catastrophe  in  the  floating  battery,  he  con- 
trived to  obtain  a  situation  on  board  of  the  Spanish  Admiral's 
ship,  and  in  one  of  the  engagements  occupied  himself,  upon 
the  quarter-deck,  during  the  battle,  in  sketching  the  various 
positions  of  both  fleets.  On  the  return  of  the  Spanish  fleet  to 
Cadiz,  he  was  sent  with  an  officer  to  Madrid,  bearing  the  dis- 
patches. He  exhibited  to  the  minister  an  ingenious  and  sci- 
entific view  of  the  battle,  and  was  received  with  great  applause 
and  distinction  at  the  court  of  Madrid. 

In  the  April  following  the  close  of  the  war,  I  dined  with 
him  at  Dr.  Franklin's,  in  Passy,  to  whom  he  stated  the  above 
fact,  and  exhibited  the  sketch.  At  Paris  and  Versailles  he 
moved  in  the  first  circles,  and  attracted  marked  attention. 

In  the  following  June,  lie  made  a  visit  at  my  bachelor's  hall, 
in  Beliter  square,  London.  I  never  saw  him  again.  He  sub- 
'sequently  made  the  tour  of  Europe  ;  established  himself  at 
Warsaw;  became,  in  effect.  Prime  Minister;  went  to  St.  Pe- 
tersburgh  as  Ambassador  from  Poland  ;  acquitted  himself  with 
distinguished  ability,  and  became  one  of  the  favorites  of  the 
Empress  Catharine.  After  the  dismemberment  of  Poland, 
Littlepage  returned  to  America,  and  died  in  Fredericksburgh, 
Virginia. 

A  violent  and  acrimonious  controversy  occurred  between 
Mr.  Jay  and  Littlepage,  originating  in  the  abrupt  departure  of 
the  latter  from  the  family  of  Mr.  Jay,  and  his  refusing  to  re- 
fund advances  made  to  him  by  Mr.  Jay.  He  assailed  that 
pure  and  eminent  patriot,  in  a  pamphlet,  that  bore  the  impress 
of  the  genius  as  well  as  the  bitterness  of  a  Junius. 

A  merchant  of  Nantes,  and  a  friend,  learning  of  my  intended 
journey  to  Paris,  solicited  me  to  conduct  his  wife  under  my 
protection,  to  that  city.  Our  carriage  was  arranged  for  the 
convenience  of  two  passengers.  On  the  second  evening,  a 
wheel  broke  near  the  village  of  La  Fleche,  and  we  were  neces- 
sarily obliged  to  stop  for  repairs.  Madame,  on  a  former  jour- 
ney, had  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  Curate  of  the  parish, 
and  we  determined  to  shelter  ourselves  under  the  wings  of  his 

8 


114  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

hospitality  for  the  night.  It  was  about  eight  o'clock  when  we 
entered  the  Curate's  yard.  His  servants  took  charge  of  our 
baggage,  and  we  found  the  old  gentleman  seated  with  two  or 
three  priests  at  supper,  upon  hashed  mutton  and  raw  onions. 
Had  I  been  an  old  friend,  and  rendered  him  a  thousand  servi- 
ces, he  could  not  have  received  me  with  a  more  cordial  wel- 
come. His  face  was  as  serene  as  a  summer  evening ;  a  few 
grey  hairs  were  mingled  with  his  dark  locks.  ''  A  Boston^ 
and  an  ally,"  exclaimed  the  good  man,  "  doubly  entitle  you  to 
my  attention  ;"  "mon  ami,"  said  he,  kissing  me  on  each  cheek, 
with  much  fervency,  (for  men  kiss  men,  in  France,)  "  Je  suis 
charme,  de  vous  voir  chez  moi."  He  stepped  back,  and  I 
looked  full  in  his  eyes,  and  thought  I  read  in  them  so  much 
benignity  and  truth,  that  I  felt  not  only  a  strong  predilection 
for  him,  but  an  assurance  of  his  sincerity.  ''  I  am  heartily 
mortified,"  said  he,  pointing  to  the  mutton  hash,  "that  we  have 
nothing  better  on  the  table,  but  have  the  complaisance  to  wait 
ten  minutes,  and  we  will  have  something  plus  comme  ilfaut — 
Johnton — Twinet — venez  ici." 

Madame  was  to  spend  the  night  with  a  friend  in  the  vicinity, 
and  having  only  myself  to  consult,  I  borrowed  Johnton's  "  cou- 
teau,"  and  attacked  the  mutton,  altho'  as  tough  as  leather,  and 
mixed  up  with  raw  onions,  which  I  abominate.  The  old  man's 
goodness,  and  a  fine  appetite,  supplied  all  deficiencies.  The 
supper  removed,  and  dessert  on  the  table,  the  good  Curate  gave 
me  a  detail  of  his  life. 

"  He  had  served,"  he  said,  "  his  king,  for  sixteen  years,  with  a 
musket  on  his  shoulder,  but  being  disposed  naturally  to  piety, 
he  had  changed  the  musket  for  the  "  eglise,"  and  obtained  his 
curacy,  which  secures  him  a  quiet  and  virtuous  life.  An  old 
soldier,  he  felt  an  instinctive  curiosity  to  learn  the  progress  of 
military  events  in  America;  and  was  very  inquisitive  about 
"  Le  grand  Vas-sang-ton."  When  I  had  finished  an  account 
of  the  affair  at  Trenton,  the  Curate  insisted  on  drinking  to  his 
health  and  prosperity  :  "  Allons!  a  la  sante  du  grand  Vas-sang- 
ton."  He  conducted  me  to  my  chamber,  and  himself  adjusted 
my  night-cap. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  115 

Early  the  next  morning,  I  strolled  into  an  extensive  garden 
near  the  house,  and  feasted  on  delicious  fruit,  still  moistened 
with  the  dew  of  the  night.  '  ^  *   '; 

I  was  soon  joined  by  the  worthy  "  padre,"  who  made  every 
effort  to  withdraw  me  from  the  dangerous  paths  of  heresy  into 
the  fold  of  the  true  church.  This  led  us  into  a  curious  dia- 
logue, discussing  the  respective  tenets  of  the  Catholic  and  Pro- 
testant religions. 

We  left  this  hospitable  mansion  with  deep  sensibility.  As 
Madame  had  some  business  two  or  three  posts  out  of  our  way, 
and  being  anxious  myself  to  visit  the  celebrated  religious  insti- 
tution of"  La  Trappe,"  we  left  the  Paris  road,  taking  a  north- 
erly direction.  My  companion  chose  to  be  cash-keeper,  and 
necessarily  cash-payer,  on  the  road.  Whilst  Madame  was  dis- 
puting with  the  postillion,  how  much  was  overpaid,  I  was  trip- 
ping ahead,  seeing  the  country,  and  amusing  myself  chatting 
with  the  peasantry  along  the  road.  On  our  way  to  La  Trappe, 
I  imprudently  did  so  just  at  night-fall,  and  found  myself  half  a 
league  in  advance  of  the  post-house,  in  the  dark.  It  occurred 
to  me  that  I  might  have  taken  the  wrong  route,  or  that  an  ac- 
cident had  befallen  the  carriage.  I  soon  heard  wheels  grind- 
ing along  the  flinty  road,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  Standing  in 
the  middle  of  the  road,  patiently  awaiting  the  approach  of  the 
vehicle,  I  ran  before  the  horses,  crying  out  "  postilion,  arrete ! 
arrete !" — but  what  was  my  astonishment,  to  hear  a  grum  voice 
exclaim,  "  Sacre — postilion — qu'est  ce  qu'il  y'a?"  Thun- 
derstruck at  my  blunder,  and  expecting  he  would  send  a  ball  at 
me,  I  made  the  best  of  my  way  down  the  hill,  and  the  postillion, 
made  the  best  of  his  over  it ;  being  mutually  afraid  of  each 
other.  He  had  certainly  every  reason  to  suspect  me  of  being 
a  foot-pad.  The  place — the  darkness — everything  fortified  the 
conclusion.  Descending  the  hill  precipitously,  I  was  rejoiced 
to  meet  my  own  carriage,  which  I  approached  with  caution.  I 
left  Madame  the  next  morning  at  the  village  of  Mortagne,  and 
proceeded  alone,  a  distance  of  eight  miles  from  the  main  road, 
to  the  sequestered  establishment  surrounded  by  woodlands,  and 
known  as  the  "  L'abbaye  da  La  Trappe,"  inhabited  by  perhaps 


Il6  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

the   most  singular   and  austere  religious   order  among  man- 
kind. 

The  order  was  instituted  on  the  confines  of  Normandy, 
by  the  Compt  De  Perche,  a  gloomy  and  disappointed  officer, 
who,  under  the  influence  of  a  melancholy  misanthropy,  desired 
to  bury  himself  in  seclusion  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  I  was 
greeted  by  the  official  with  great  hospitality.  They  gave  me 
for  breakfast,  in  a  secluded  room  of  the  monastery,  a  small  dish 
of  meat,  roots,  bread  and  cider.  Here  I  observed  edifying  in- 
scriptions upon  the  walls,  and  directions  as  to  the  conduct  of 
visitors. 

The  austerities  and  penances  they  impose  upon  themselves 
by  their  religious  rites,  would  be  insupportable  to  the  human 
frame,  unless  sustained  by  their  extravagant  fanaticism,  or 
possibly  earnest  devotion.  They  drink  no  wine,  and  abstain 
•even  from  eggs  and  fish.  They  work  three  hours  each  day  in 
the  field,  and  retire  at  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  in  the  summer,  and 
seven  o'clock  in  winter.  They  rise  at  two  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and 
repairing  to  the  church,  continue  at  their  devotions  until  four 
o'clock ;  they  then  return  to  their  respective  cells,  and  at  half- 
past  five  o'clock  again  repair  for  half  an  hour  to  the  church. 
At  seven  o'clock  they  commence  their  labor,  and  when  the 
weather  confines  them  within  doors,  they  engage  themselves 
in  cleaning  the  church,  or  some  domestic  avocations. 

The  most  extraordinary  feature  of  their  institution,  particu- 
larly for  Frenchmen,  is,  that  they  hold  no  oral  communication 
with  each  other ;  neither  are  visitors  permitted  to  speak  to 
them.  They  maintain,  throughout  their  walls,  except  when  en- 
gaged in  religious  duties,  a  profound  silence — like  the  stillness 
of  the  tomb. 

They  find  some  occupation  in  the  mechanical  arts,  and  in 
writing  for  religious  publications.  After  working  an  hour  and 
a  half,  they  again  returned  to  their  rites  in  the  church,  and  then 
retire  to  their  cells.  Again  they  repair  to  their  chapel  to  unite 
in  hymns  and  anthems ;  this  brings  them  to  twelve  o'clock^ 
their  dinner  hour. 

Their  table   is  clean,  but   without   cloths;    each  brother 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  "VTATSOlSr.  117 

has  a  cup,  a  knife,  a  towel,  a  spoon,  and  a  wooden  fork. 
They  eat  black  bread,  and  drink  a  half  pint  of  cider.  They 
have  at  their  meals  roots  without  butter  or  oil ;  occasionally, 
beans  or  light  soup,  with  a  dessert  of  two  apples. 

They  proceed  from  the  table  to  the  church,  and  then  labour 
for  another  hour  and  a  half.  Then  each  retires  to  his  solitary 
cell,  where  he  reads  or  meditates  until  four  o'clock,  when 
they  again  resume  their  devotions  in  the  church.  At  five 
o'clock  they  take  their  supper,  consisting  of  black  bread,  with 
a  little  cider  and  apples.  They  again  return  to  the  church, 
and  continue  there  engaged  in  their  pious  rites  until  seven  or 
eight  o'clock,  when  they  all  retire  to  their  lonely  cells  and  mi- 
serable straw.  The  dying  are  placed  on  straw  strewn  with 
ashes.     Thus  live,  and  thus  die,  these  infatuated  men. 

The  scene  I  contemplated,  and  the  recital  of  their  privations 
and  endurances,  which  I  derived  from  a  gentleman  of  the  vici- 
nity, whom  I  fortunately  met  here,  excited  in  my  mind  emotions 
of  grief  and  despondency,  that  made  me  desire  no  further  indul- 
gence of  my  curiosity  on  my  route  to  Paris.  I  again  mingled 
in  the  elegant  festivities  of  the  city,  for  two  months,  in  the  sum- 
mer and  autumn  of  '81. 

I  came  oddly  in  contact  with  the  eccentric  Mrs.  Wright,  on 
my  arrival  in  Paris  from  Nantes.  Giving  orders  from  the  bal- 
cony of  the  Hotel  d'York,  to  my  English  servant,  I  was  as- 
sailed by  a  powerful  female  voice,  crying  out  from  an  upper 
story,  "  Who  are  you?  An  American.  I  hope  !"  ''Yes,  Mad- 
am," I  replied,  "  and  who  are  you  ?"  In  two  minutes  she 
came  blustering  down  stairs,  with  the  familiarity  of  an  old 
acquaintance.  We  were  soon  on  the  most  excellent  terms. 
I  discovered  that  she  was  in  the  habit  of  daily  intercourse  with 
Franklin,  and  was  visited  and  caressed  by  all  the  respectable 
Americans  in  Paris.  She  was  a  native  of  New -Jersey,  and 
by  profession  a  moulder  of  wax  figures.  The  wild  flights  of 
her  powerful  mind  stamped  originality  on  all  her  acts  and  lan- 
guage. She  was  a  tall  and  athletic  figure  ;  walked  with  a  firm, 
bold  step,  and  erect  as  an  Indian.     Her  complexion  was  some- 


118 


what  sallow — her  cheek-bones  high — her  face  furrowed,  and 
her  olive  eyes  keen,  piercing,  and  expressive.  Her  sharp 
glance  was  appalling;  it  had  almost  the  wildness  of  the 
maniac. 

The  vigor  and  originality  of  her  conversation  corresponded 
with  her  manners  and  appearance.  She  would  utter  language 
in  her  incessant  volubility,  as  if  unconscious  to  whom  directed, 
that  would  put  her  hearers  to  the  blush.  She  apparently  pos- 
sessed the  utmost  simplicity  of  heart  and  character. 

With  the  head  of  wax  upon  her  lap,  she  would  mould  the 
most  accurate  likenesses,  by  the  mere  force  of  a  retentive 
recollection  of  the  traits  and  lines  of  the  countenance ;  she 
would  form  her  likenesses  by  the  manipulation  of  the  wax  with 
her  thumb  and  finger.  Whilst  thus  engaged,  her  strong  mind 
poured  forth  an  uninterrupted  torrent  of  wild  thought,  and  an- 
ecdotes and  reminiscences  of  men  and  events.  She  went  to 
London  about  the  year  1767,  near  the  period  of  Franklin's  ap- 
pearance there  as  the  agent  of  Pennsylvania.  The  peculiarity 
of  her  character,  and  the  excellence  of  her  wax  figures,  made 
her  rooms  in  Pall  Mall  a  fashionable  lounging-place  for  the 
nobility  and  distinguished  men  of  England.  Here  her  deep 
penetration  and  sagacity,  cloaked  by  her  apparent  simplicity 
of  purpose,  enabled  her  to  gather  many  facts  and  secrets  im- 
portant to  "dear  America'' — her  uniform  expression  in  refer- 
ring to  her  native  land,  which  she  dearly  loved. 

She  was  a  genuine  Republican  and  ardent  Whig.  The 
King  and  Queen  often  visited  her  rooms-;  they  would  induce 
her  to  work  upon  her  heads,  regardless  of  their  presence.  She 
would  often,  as  if  forgettin^i  herself,  address  them  as  George  and 
Charlotte.  This  fact  she  often  mentioned  to  me  herself. 
Whilst  in  England,  she  communicated  much  important  infor- 
mation to  Franklin,  and  remained  in  London  until  '75  or  '76, 
engaged  in  that  kind  of  intercourse  w^ith  him  and  the  Ameri- 
can government,  by  which  she  was  placed  in  positions  of  ex- 
treme hazard. 

I  saw  her  frequendy  in  Paris,  in  '81,  and  in  various  parts  of 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  119 

England,  from  '82  to  '84.  Her  letters  followed  me  in  my 
travels  through  Europe.  I  had  assisted  her  at  Paris ;  had  ex- 
tended aid  to  her  son  at  Nantes,  and  given  him  a  free  passage 
in  one  of  our  ships  to  America.  Her  gratitude  was  unbounded. 
This  son  was  a  painter  and  artist  of  some  eminence,  and  in 
1784,  took  a  model  of  Washington's  head,  in  plaster.  I  heard 
from  Washington  himself  an  amusing  anecdote  connected 
with  this  bust. 

In  January,  1785,  I  enjoyed  the  inestimable  privilege  of  a 
visit  under  his  roof,  in  the  absence  of  all  visitors.  Among  the 
many  interesting  subjects  which  engaged  our  conversation  in 
a  long  winter  evening,  (the  most  valuable  of  my  life)  in  which 
his  dignified  lady,  and  Miss  Custis  united,  he  amused  us  by  re- 
lating the  incident  of  the  taking  this  model.  "  Wright  came 
to  Mount  Vernon,"  the  General  remarked,  "  with  the  singular 
request,  that  I  should  permit  him  to  take  a  model  of  my  face 
in  plaster  of  Paris,  to  which  I  consented  with  some  reluctance. 
He  oiled  my  features  over,  and  placing  me  flat  upon  my  back, 
upon  a  cot,  proceeded  to  daub  my  face  with  the  plaster. 
Whilst  in  this  ludicrous  attitude,  Mrs.  Washington  entered  the 
room,  and  seeing  m}^  face  thus  overspread  with  the  plaster,  in- 
voluntarily exclaimed.  Her  cry  excited  in  me  a  disposition  to 
smile,  which  gave  my  mouth  a  slight  twist,  or  compression  of 
the  lips,  that  is  now  observable  in  the  busts,  Wright  afterwards 
made."     These  are  nearly  the  words  of  Washington. 

Sometime  after  my  acquaintance  with  Mrs.  Wright  com- 
menced, she  informed  me  that  an  eminent  female  chemist  of 
Paris  had  written  her  a  note,  that  she  would  make  her  a  visit  at 
twelve  o'clock  the  next  day,  and  announced  also,  that  she  could 
not  speak  English.  Mrs.  Wright  desired  me  to  act  as  inter- 
preter. At  the  appointed  hour,  the  thundering  of  a  carriage 
in  tho  court-yard  announced  the  arrival  of  the  French  lady. 
She  entered  with  much  grace,  in  which  Mrs.  W.  was  no  match 
for  her.  She  was  old,  with  a  sharp  nose — with  broad  patches 
of  Vermillion  spread  over  the  deep  furrows  of  her  cheeks.  I 
was   placed   in   a   chair   between   the   two   originals.     Their 


120  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION"; 

tongues  flew  with  velocity,  the  one  in  English  and  the  other  in 
French,  and  neither  understanding  a  word  the  other  uttered.  I 
saw  no  possibility  of  interpreting  two  such  volleys  of  words, 
and  at  length  abruptly  commanded  silence  for  a  moment. 

I  asked  each — "^do  you  understand  ?"  "  Not  a  word,"  said 
Mrs.  Wright."  "  N'importe,"  replied  the  chemist,  bounding 
from  her  chair,  in  the  midst  of  the  floor,  and  dropping  a  low 
curtsy — was  off.  "  What  an  old  painted  fool,"  said  Mrs.  W., 
in  anger.  It  was  evident  that  this  visit  was  not  intended  for 
an  interchange  of  sentiment,  but  a  mere  act  of  civility — a 
call. 

I  employed  Mrs.  W.  to  make  the  head  of  Franklin,  which 
was  often  the  source  of  much  amusement  to  me.  After  it  was 
completed,  both  being  invited  to  dine  with  Franklin,  I  con- 
veyed her  toPassyin  my  carriage,  she  bearing  the  head  upon 
her  lap.  No  sooner  in  presence  of  the  Doctor,  than  she  had 
placed  one  head  by  the  side  of  the  other.  "  There !"  she  ex- 
claimed, "  are  twin  brothers."  The  likeness  was  truly  ad- 
mirable, and  at  the  suggestion  of  Mrs.  Wright,  to  give  it  more 
effect,  Franklin  sent  me  a  suit  of  silk  clothes  he  wore  in  1778. 
Many  years  afterwards,  the  head  was  broken  in  Albany,  and 
the  clothes  I  presented  to  the  "  Historical  Society  of  Massachu- 
setts." 

An  adventure  occurred  to  Mrs.  Wright  in  connection  with 
this  head,  ludicrous  in  the  highest  degree,  and  although  almost 
incredible,  is  literally  true.  After  the  head  had  been  modeled, 
she  walked  out  to  Passy,  carrying  it  in  a  napkin,  in  order  to 
compare  it  with  the  original.  In  returning  in  the  evening  she 
was  stopped  at  the  barrier,  in  course  to  be  searched  for  contra- 
band goods;  but  as  her  mind  was  as  free  as  her  native  Ameri- 
can air,  she  knew  no  restraint,  nor  the  reason  why  she  was 
detained.  She  resisted  the  attempt  to  examine  her  bundle,  and 
broke  out  in  the  rage  of  a  fury.  The  oflicers  were  amazed, 
as  no  explanation,  in  the  absence  of  an  interpreter,  could  take 
place.  She  was  compelled,  however,  to  yield  to  power.  The 
bundle  was  opened,  and  to  the  astonishment  of  the  officials,  ex- 


OR,    MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  121 


hibited  the  head  of  a  dead  man,  as  appeared  to  them  in  the 
obscurity  of  the  night.  They  closed  the  bundle  without 
further  examination,  believing,  as  they  aftewards  assured  me, 
that  she  was  an  escaped  maniac,  who  had  committed  murder, 
and  was  about  concealing  the  head  of  her  victim. 

They  were  determined  to  convey  her  to  the  police  station, 
when  she  made  them  comprehend  her  entreaties  to  be  taken  to 
the  Hotel  d'York.  I  was  in  my  room,  and  hearing  in  the  pas- 
sage a  great  uproar,  and  Mrs.  Ws.  voice  pitched  upon  a  higher 
key  than  usual,  I  rushed  out,  and  found  her  in  a  terrible  rage, 
her  fine  eye  flashing.  I  thrust  myself  between  her  and  the 
officers,  exclaiming,  "  Au  mon  Dieu,  qu'est  ce  qu'el  y-a  ?" 
An  explanation  ensued.  All  except  Mrs.  W.  were  highly 
amused  at  the  singularity  and  absurdity  of  the  affair. 

The  head  and  clothes  I  transmitted  to  Nantes, — they  were  the 
instruments  of  many  frolics,  not  inappropriate  to  my  youth,  but 
perhaps  it  is  hardly  safe  to  advert  to  them  in  my  age.  A  few 
I  will  venture  to  relUte.  On  my  arrival  at  Nantes,  I  caused 
the  head  to  be  properly  adjusted  to  the  dress,  which  was  arran- 
ged in  a  natural  shape  and  dimensions.  I  had  the  figure  placed 
in  the  corner  of  a  large  room,  near  a  closet,  and  behind  a  table. 
Before  him  I  laid  an  open  atlas,  his  arm  resting  upon  the  table, 
and  mathemiatical  instruments  strewn  upon  it.  A  handker- 
chief was  thrown  over  the  arm  stumps,  wires  were  extended  to 
the  closet,  by  which  means  the  body  could  be  elevated  or  de- 
pressed, and  placed  in  various  positions.  Thus  arranged,  some 
ladies  and  gentlemen  were  invited  to  pay  their  respects  to  Dr. 
Franklin,  by  candle-light.  For  a  moment,  they  were  com- 
pletely deceived,  and  all  profoundly  bowed  and  curtsied,  which 
was  reciprocated  by  the  figure.  Kot  a  word  being  uttered,  the 
trick  was  soon  revealed. 

A  report  soon  circulated  that  Doctor  Franklin  was  at  Mon- 
sieur Watson's,  "  sour  I'lsle  de  Frydeau.  At  eleven  o'clock 
the  next  morning,  the  Mayor  of  Nantes  came  in  full  dress,  to 
call  on  the  renowned  philosopher.  Cossoul,  my  worthy  part- 
ner, being  acquainted  with  the  Mayor,  favored  the  joke,  fpr  a 


122 

moment  after  their  mutual  salutations,  Others  came  in, 
and  all  were  disposed  to  gull  their  friends  in  the  same 
manner. 

The  most  amusing  of  all  the  incidents  connected  with  this 
head,  occurred  in  London,  where  I  had  sent  it  after  the  peace 
of '83,  when  I  had  established  a  bachelor's  hall  in  that  city.  I 
placed  the  figure  in  full  dress,  with  the  head  leaning  out  of  the 
window,  apparently  gazing  up  and  down  the  square.  He  had 
formerly  been  well  known  in  that  part  of  the  city,  and  was  at 
once  recognized.  Observing  a  collection  of  people  gather- 
ing at  another  window,  looking  at  him,  I  ordered  him 
down. 

The  morning  papers  announced  the  arrival  of  Doctor  Frank- 
lin at  an  American  merchant's  in  Beliter  square,  and  I  found 
it  necessary  to  contradict  the  report.  In  the  interval,  three 
Boston  gentlemen  who  were  in  the  city,  expressed  a  wish  to 
pay  their  respects  to  the  Doctor.  I  desired  them  to  call  in 
the  evening,  and  bring  their  letters  of  introduction,  which 
they  had  informed  me  they  bore,  expecting  to  see  him  at 
Paris.  I  concerted  measures  with  a  friend,  to  carry  the  harm- 
less deception  to  the  utmost  extent  on  this  occasion.  Before 
entering,  I  apprised  them  that  he  was  deeply  engaged  in  ex- 
amining maps  and  papers,  and  begged  they  would  not  be  dis- 
turbed at  any  apparent  inattention.  Thus  prepared,  I  con- 
ducted them  into  a  spacious  room.  Franklin  was  seated  at  the 
extremity,  with  his  atlas,  &c.,  &c.,  and  my  friend  at  the 
wires.  I  advanced  in  succession  with  each,  half  across  the 
room,  and  introduced  them  by  name.  FrankUn  raised  his 
head,  bowed,  and  resumed  his  attention  to  the  atlas.  I  then 
retired,  and   seated  them  at  the   further  side  of  the  room. 

They  spoke  to  me  in  whispers  :  "  What  a  venerable  figure,'* 
exclaims  one.  ''  Why  don't  he  speak,"  says  another.  "  He 
is  doubtless  in  a  reverie,"  1  remarked,  "  and  has  forgotten  the 
presence  of  his  company  ;  his  great  age  must  be  his  apology. 
Get  your  letters,  and  go  up  again  with  me  to  him."  When 
near  the  table,   I  said,  "Mr.  B ,  Sir,  from  Boston."     The 


123 


head  raised  up.  "  A  letter,"  says  B ,  "  from  Doctor  Cooper." 

I  could  go  no  further.  The  scene  was  too  ludicrous.  As  B. 
held  out  the  letter,  I  struck  the  figure  smartly,  exclaiming, 
"  Why  don't  you  receive  the  letter  like  a  gentleman  ?"  They 
were  all  petrified  with  astonishment,  but  B.  never  forgave  me 
the  joke. 


124  MEX  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   EEVOLUTIOK 


CHAPTER    XIL 

Chantilly — Lisle — Ostend — Canals — Bruges-  Ghent —  Silas  Dean — Let- 
ter from  Author  of  McFingal — Tomb  of  Rousseau — Dr.  Franklin — 
Capture  of  Cornwallis — De  Vergennes'  Circular. 

On  the  27th  October,  1781,  I  left  Paris  upon  a  tour,  intend- 
ed to  embrace  the  northern  provinces  of  France  and  the  Ne- 
therlands. After  paying  a  short  visit  in  St.  Denis  to  the  tomb 
of  the  deceased  monarchs  of  France,  we  proceeded  to  Chan- 
tilly, over  a  paved  road,  and  along  an  avenue,  formed  by  a 
double  row  on  each  side  of  ornamental  trees.  The  couniy 
was  everywhere  em^  ellished  by  splendid  villas. 

The  palace  of  Chantilly  belonged  to  the  Prince  of  Condo.  It 
was  esteemed  one  of  the  most  magnificent  palaces,  and  beautiful 
seats  in  Europe.  We  roved  about  the  grounds  for  some  time, 
delighted  at  every  step.  The  palace  was  surrounded  by  an  arti- 
ficial canal :  near  the  former  was  a  double  pavilion  of  stables, 
containing  three  hundred  fine  English  horses. 

These  stables  are  built  of  hewn  stone,  ornamented  with 
columns  and  marble  statues  and  glass  windows,  covered  (Oh ! 
Eepublican  America,)  with  silk  curtains.  The  afternoon  was 
serene,  and  our  delighted  sensations  can  hardly  be  expressed, 
while  strolling  through  the  gardens  and  about  the  palace.  Here 
were  marble  statues,  jets  d'eau,  cascades,  labyrinths,  grottos,  ar- 
tificial ponds  and  islands,  canals  with  pleasure  boats,  and  a  thou- 
sand other  pleasing  and  enchanting  impresses  of  taste  and 
affluence. 

I  was  indeed  enraptured,  for  it  exceeded,  alike  in  taste,  variety, 
and  splendor,  all  I  had  yet  seen.  The  scene  seemed  to  com- 
bine the  influence  of  European  elegance  and  refinement,  with 
Asiatic  profusion. 

Whilst  walking  along  the  canal,  near  the  palace,  our  conduc- 
tor gave  a  whistle,  and  the  whole  surface  was  in  a  moment 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  125 

alive  with  old  carp,  struggling  out  from  the  mud.  A  little  in  ad- 
vance I  observed  ladies  seated  upon  cushions  on  the  bank  of  the 
canal,  calling  the  carp  up  and  feeding  them  with  crumbs  of 
bread. 

The  forest  appertaining  to  this  magnificent  estate  was  twenty- 
three  leagues  in  circumference,  and  contained  a  vast  number  of 
deer,  wild  boars,  and  other  animals.  Here  the  nobility  hunt. 
In  the  palace  we  examined  numerous  fine  pictures  of  the  bat- 
tles and  sieges  of  the  great  Conde. 

Leaving  Chantilly  the  next  morning,  ^ve  took  a  private  road 
passing  through  the  grounds,  and  along  the  canal  already  de- 
scribed. In  the  forest  we  travelled  twelve  miles,  through  a 
continuous  road,  passing  several  barriers  without  seeing  a 
house  or  human  being.  It  was  in  truth  as  much  in  a  state  of 
primeval  wilderness,  as  the  wildest  forests  of  America ;  being 
exclusively  devoted  to  the  amusement  in  hunting  of  the  royal  fa- 
mily, and  favored  Nimrods  of  the  nobility. 

We  reached  Lisle,  the  capital  of  French  Flanders.  I  observ- 
ed in  our  passage  from  Chantilly,  that  the  country  was  princi- 
pally devoted  to  the  wheat  culture  ;  the  vineyards  of  the  south- 
ern region  do  not  prosper  in  the  northern  provinces. 

Peronne  was  strongly  fortified,  having  gate  \  ithin  gate.  "We 
passed  through  them  in  the  ni  ht,  and  with  g  eat  difficulty  ob- 
tained admittance  into  the  city,  the  gates^  being  cloied  on  our 
arrival.  Lisle  was  the  key  of  northern  France,  guarded  by  one 
of  the  best  fortifications  of  Europe. 

As  we  advanced  towards  the  north,  we  discovered  a  material 
and  striking  change  in  the  aspect  of  th^  cities,  in  the  mode  of  cul- 
tivation, and  in  the  manners,  appearance,  and  language  of  the 
peasantry.  Instead  of  hewn  stone,  the  cities  were  built  in  a 
great  degree,  of  brick,  assimilating  to  those  of  England  and 
America;  the  streets  neat  and  spacious,  were  generally  orna- 
mented by  trees.  I  could  with  difficulty  comprehend  the  jargon 
of  the  common  people,  who  speak  an  infamous  "  patois"  com- 
pounded of  vulgar  French  and  Flemish. 

Near  Lens  we  crossed  a  bridge  leading  over  a  fine  canal, 
which  we  afterwards  noticed  at  various  points  of  ur  journey. 
I  was  delighted  to  perceive  with  what  facility  and  rapid  move- 


126  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

ment  heavily  ladened  boats  were  drawn  along  by  a  horse,  trot- 
ting upon  the  embankment.  Contemplating  these  useful  im- 
provements, my  mind  would  revert  to  my  native  America, 
and  calculate  the  probable  influence  of  similar  works,  uniting 
her  majestic  streams,  and  connecting  her  mighty  inland  seas 
with  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic. 

Lisle  was  one  of  the  first  cities  of  Europe,  and  ranked 
among  the  most  elegant.  It  embraced  extensive  manufac- 
tures, consisting  of  silks,  cambrics,  camlets,  and  a  variety  of 
other  articles,  from  which  it  derived  its  wealth  and  impor- 
tance. 

I  left  my  carriage  at  Lisle,  intending  to  pursue  my  journey 
in  Flanders  upon  their  canals.  We  entered  the  dominions 
of  the  Emperor  Joseph,  near  Manheim. 

I  saw  the  Emperor  at  Paris  during  the  last  summer,  who  was 
then  travelling  in-cog.,  under  the  title  of  Count  De  Lisle. 

He  is  a  philosopher  and  a  statesman,  possessing  a  liberal  and 
original  mind,  but  marked  by  extravagant  and  eccentric  pecu- 
liarities. He  was  at  this  time  introducing  great  and  liberal  re- 
forms throughout  his  extensive  dominions,  and  had  already 
suppressed  several  orders  of  Monks,  those  drones  in  the  hive  of 
society.  The  government  of  France  felt  the  example,  and  had 
already  innovated  upon  the  prerogatives  of  clerical  orders. 
The  American  Revolution  could  not  fail  to  diffuse  this  dawn  of 
light,  that  was  evidently  enkindling  in  the  horizon  of  Europe. 

The  country  from  Manheim  to  Ostend  is  level  and  pleasing  ; 
producing  grain,  and  tobacco  of  an  inferior  quality.  I  devoted 
a  day  in  an  examination  of  Ostend,  its  harbour,  and  adjoining 
coast.  It  was  a  small,  but  interesting  commercial  city.  The 
Emperor  Joseph  was  leveling  its  fortifications,  having  consti- 
tuted it  a  free  city. 

The  harbour  was  capacious,  but  shallow,  and  its  entrance  dan- 
gerous in  bad  weather.  Commercial  men  were  attracted  there, 
it  being  a  neutral  port,  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  An  im- 
mense amount  of  shipping  was  in  the  harbour,  said  to  amount 
to  five  hundred  vessels,  many  of  which  are  received  into  an 


127 


extensive  dry-dock,  by  locks  or  sluices.  I  walked  the  whole 
length  of  the  quay,  extending  about  a  mile  toward  the  sea,  to 
the  very  entrance  of  the  harbor,  both  sides  of  which  were  lined 
with  vessels  of  every  grade.  The  confusion  of  tongues  among 
the  merchants  and  sailors  of  almost  every  maratime  nation,  as- 
sailed my  ears,  as  we  proceeded,  not  unlike  the  tumult  of  Babel. 
It  was  a  scene  of  deep  interest  and  animation. 

From  Ostend  we  proceeded  to  Bruges,  by  a  noble  and  spa- 
cious canal ;  one  of  the  most  magnificent  works  of  the  kind  in 
Europe.  The  boat  upon  which  we  embarked  was  designed  to 
accommodate  one  hundred  passengers.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  float- 
ing hotel ;  arranged  by  the  division  of  apartments,  to  separate 
the  different  classes  of  society.  The  line  of  demarcation  in  rank 
was  very  strongly  drawn  in  Germany.  The  after-room  of  the  boat 
was  reserved  for  the  nobility,  and  those  who  could  afford  to  pay 
for  the  luxury  it  provided.  It  was  an  elegant  parlour  in  appear- 
ance, with  gilded  ceiling,  velvet  cushions,  silk  curtains,  &c.  The 
next  apartment  was  on  a  larger  scale  ;  decent  and  comfortable  in 
its  arrangement,  and  designed  fur  the  next  gradation  in  society. 
The  residue  of  the  boat  was  cut  up  into  a  kitchen,  and  subdivi- 
sions for  the  inferior  classes  of  passengers. 

This  celebrated  canal  was  constructed  amid  forests,  during 
the  twelfth  century.  It  is  upon  a  very  enlarged  scale,  and  its 
shoalest  part  is  twelve  feet  deep.  It  is  adapted  to  vessels  of 
two  hundred  tons,  from  the  ocean  to  Bruges.  -   ;•  . 

Anterior  to  the  rise  of  Amsterdam,  Antwerp,  and  the  cities 
upon  the  canals,  were  the  emporiums  of  Europe.  Their  com- 
mercial glory  declined  from  that  era,  and  has  never  been  re- 
trieved. We  were  drawn  by  two  horses,  trotting  on  the  broad 
and  elevated  embankment,  which  is  lined  with  ornamental  trees. 
Our  progress  was  about  three  miles  an  hour.  As  the  surface 
of  the  canal  is  elevated  several  feet  above  the  level  of  the  coun- 
try, which  is  an  uniform  flat  without  a  hill,  we  were  enabled  to 
view  a  delightful  region,  under  high  culture.  I  found  this  no- 
vel mode  of  travelling  exceedingly  amusing  and  agreeable. 

This  whole  territory  has  probably  been  reclaimed  from  the 
ocean,  and  is  now  the  garden  of  Europe  ;  distinguished  for  the 


128  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

industry  of  its  people,  and  the  skill  and  science  of  their  agri- 
culture. 

We  were  annoyed,  although  somewhat  amused,  by  crowds 
of  young  beggars,  of  both  sexes,  running  after  the  boat,  along 
the  embankment,  soliciting  "  charite/'  To  induce  us  to  be 
liberal,  they  performed  many  dexterous  feats  of  tumbling,  roll- 
ing upon  the  ground,  and  casting  their  feet  upon  the  trees,  with 
their  heads  down,  often  in  the  most  indecent  and  disgusting  at- 
titudes. 

We  landed  in  the  suburbs  of  the  town'  and  delivered  our 
luggage  to  the  care  of  a  soldier.  I  followed  him  into  the  heart 
of  this  magnificent  city.  Bruges  contained  about  30,000  in- 
habitants ;  and   its   appearance  evinced  its  former  opulence. 

The  position  of  the  city  is  very  fine.  The  houses  have  a 
lively  and  cheerful  appearance,  and  the  streets  are  spacious  and 
clean,  with  many  beautiful  squares.  Some  of  the  churches 
are  upon  a  scale  of  elegant  magnificence.  The  exterior  of  the 
tower  of  the  cathedral  is  loaded  with  bells,  producing  a  harmo- 
nious musical  chime.  The  summit  of  the  tower  is  very  high  ; 
we  saw  it  distinctly  at  Ostend,  and  it  serves  as  a  landmark  to 
ships  upon  the  coast.  I  examined,  in  this  city,  many  admirable 
paintings  by  Van  Dyke,  and  other  Flemish  artists;  they  excel 
in  rural  views,  and  night  scenes,  in  which  they  give  amazing 
effect  to  deep  transparent  shades,  contrasted  with  the  strong 
reflections  from  fire  or  moonlight. 

Bruges  covered  a  large  space,  and  was  extensively  engaged  in 
manufactures,  particularly  of  linens.  Several  canals,  penetrating 
through  fertile  regions,  unite  at  this  point,  and  infuse  animation^ 
and  vigour  into  its  commerce  and  manufactures. 

Whilst  contemplating  the  wonderful  effects  of  these  canals,  1 
could  not  but  envy  the  fortune  of  those  regions  which  are  blessed 
by  them,  and  regretted  that  I  cannot  live  to  witness  their  diffusion 
in  infant  America. 

I  embarked  upon  another  canal,  on  my  way  to  Ghent,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-four  miles.  We  traversed  a  lovely  country, 
rich  in  the  profusion  of  nature,  and  the  acquisitions  of  art  and 
industry.  From  the  canal-boat,'we  overlooked,  as  far  as  the  eye 


129 


could  reach,  a  continued  plain,  laid  out  with  regularity,  into 
square  lots  ;  generally  separated  by  rows  of  trees,  and  in  the 
highest  cultivation. 

The  meadows  were  thronged  with  fine,  high-fed  cattle.  The 
children  of  the  happy  peasantry  were  dancing  in  groups,  or 
skipping  along  the  embankments  of  the  canal.  I  was  charmed 
and  delighted  in  the  contemplation  of  this  noble  country,  and 
its  animating  and  lovely  scenes.  My  pen  cannot  do  justice  to 
the  beauty  of  the  scenery  I  witnessed,  and  the  elegance  and 
comfort  of  the  mode  of  travelling. 

The  eminent  agricultural  reputation  of  this  region,  it  is  said, 
was  attained  by  the  practice  of  the  red-clover  culture,  as  a 
fertilizer.  The  process  was  long  held  a  secret.  It  was  at 
length,  and  about  the  period  of  the  settlement  of  New-England, 
discovered  by  the  English,  who  used  it  in  connection  with  a 
rotation  of  crops,  and  thus  produced  a  new  era  in  the  agricul- 
ture of  England. 

Ghent  occupied  a  large  extent  of  ground  in  proportion  to  its 
population ;  its  walls  being  twenty-one  miles  in  extent.  In 
evidence  of  this  fact,  the  French  re'ate  a  ''  bon-mot"  of  Louis 
XIV,,  who  boasted  after  its  surrender  to  him,  that  he  "  could 
put  Paris  in  his  glove" — Ghent,  or  "gant"  in  French,  is 
glove.  In  the  era  of  its  power  and  glory,  it  was  densely 
inhabited.  The  whole  aspect  of  the  city  was  neat  and  opulent ; 
the  streets  were  wide  and  clean,  and  the  dwellings  somewhat 
scattered ;  nearly  all  having  a  small  garden  or  grounds  attach- 
ed to  them.  It  is  advantageously  and  agreeably  situated,  at  the 
head  of  the  canal,  and  the  junction  with  it  of  the  Scheld,  and 
also  of  the  Lis  and  Lieve.  These  rivers,  with  the  canal 
concentrating  in  the  midst  of  the  city,  divide  it  into  twenty- 
four  small  islands,  which  are  connected  by  innumerable  little 
bridges. 

Its  extensive  manufactures  consisted  of  cheap  linens,  ticking, 
lace,  thread,  &c. ;  their  exports  were  various,  especially  wheat. 
English  coal  is  much  used.  The  old  Gothic  cathedral  exhi- 
bits rare  architecture,  and  contained  many  fine  paintings. 


180  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

The  city  was  inundated  by  monks.  The  Roman  Catholic  re- 
ligion predominated,  but  the  recent  edict  of  the  sagacious 
Joseph,  will,  I  trust,  effect  a  new  epoch,  and  remove  from  the 
people  the  thraldom  of  a  mercenary  priesthood.* 

The  road  from  Ghent  to  Brussels  was  excellent ;  it  is  leveh 
and  paved  tbe  whole  distance.  I  travelled  over  it  in  a  crowded 
carriage,  containing  a  motley  assemblage,  and  among  them 
priests  and  noblemen.  I  dined  this  day  at  a  table  d'hote,  with 
a  mixed/genteel  company  of  English,  Americans,  and  French, 
in  a  sumptuous  manner,  with  wine  included,  at  only  twenty- 
geven  French  sous. 

Brussels  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  coun- 
try. It  is  enclosed  by  a  brick  wall.  I  examined,  with  much' 
interest,  the  magnificent  collection  of  paintings  contained  in 
the  Gothic  cathedral ;  one  especially  attracted  my  attention 
representing  a  Jew  in  the  act  of  robbing  a  church  of  the  "bon 
Dieu."  In  the  State  House  I  noticed  a  fine  painting  of  Joseph. 
His  wise  and  liberal  measures  of  free  trade,  toleration,  and 
other  analogous  acts,  allured  to  this  growing  city  vast  emigration 
and  wealth.  The  influence  of  this  policy  was  perceptible  in  the  ex- 
pansion of  the  city,  the  erection  of  elegant  buildings,  and  the 
formation  of  new  and  spacious  squares.  It  contained  about 
seventy  thousand  inhabitants. 

On  my  return  from  Brussels,  I  called  upon  the  once  celebra- 
ted Silas  Dean,  at  Ghent.  He  was  a  member  of  the  first  Con- 
gress, a  sensible  and  intriguing  man,  and  our  early  secret  agent 
at  the  court  of  France.  He  had  lost  his  high  standing  both  in 
France  and  America.  I  found  him  a  voluntary  exile,  misan- 
thropic in  his  feelings,  intent  on  getting  money,  and  deadly 
hostile  to  his  native  land.  His  language  was  so  strong  and  de- 
cided on  the  subject  of  American  affairs,  and  evinced  so  much 
hostility  to  his  native  land,  that  I  felt  constrained  upon  my  return 

*  In  1791,  ten  years  after  this  period,  the  Roman  priests  of  Austrian  Flanders 
were  exterminated  or  driven  into  exile.  In  my  repeated  strictures  upon  the 
monk,  whose  idleness  and  bad  character  demands  animadversion,  I  in  no  respect 
intend  to  assail  the  Roman  Catholic  religion. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  131 

to  Paris,  to  announce  to  Dr.  Franklin  my  conviction  that  Mr. 
Dean  must  be  regarded  an  enemy  alike  to  France  and  Ame- 
rica. He  observed  to  me  that  similar  reports  had  reached  him 
before,  but  that  he  had  been  unwilling  to  admit  their  truth.* 

Cambray  was  strongly  fortified,  and  has  sustained  numerous 
sieges.  Its  manufactures  consisted  chiefly  of  cambrics.  On 
the  great  square,  I  contemplated,  with  respect,  an  ancient  pal- 
ace, the  former  residence  of  the  great  and  good  Fenelon,  the 
immortal  author  of  Telemachus.  The  old  cathedral  and  La 
Maison  de  Ville  are  interesting  objects.  In  the  latter  are  two 
statues  of  full  size,  which,  advancing  from  a  recess,  strike  the 
hours  v^^ith  ponderous  hammers.  The  streets  were  badly 
paved,  and,  like  most  other  French  towns,  narrow,  and  exces- 
sively dirty. 

Douaj^  is  also  strongly  fortified.  Here  convened,  what  w^as 
called  the  Flemish  Parliament.  This  city  embraced  a  Uni- 
versity, founded  by  Louis  XIV.,  two  colleges,  and  several  con- 
vents. 

Senlis  contains  a  cathedral,  the  steeple  of  which  was  said  to 
be  the  highest  in  France ;  we  discerned  it  at  the  distance  of 
thirty  miles.     Here  we  viewed  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  tower. 

I  returned  to  Paris,  by  the  way  of  Douay,  Cambray,  Senlis, 
&c.  From  Senlis  we  diverged  to  Ermenonville,  to  visit  the 
tomb  of  Rousseau.  He  died  at  the  chateau  of  his  friend,  the 
Marquis   de  Girardin,   as  is  asserted,  in  an  apoplexy,  whilst 

*  Such,  at  the  time,  were  my  impressions,  and  the  opinions  I  formed  of  Mr. 
Dean.  I  owe  it  to  truth  and  justice,  to  record  his  vindication  from  these  stric- 
tures, by  a  potent  pen.  John  Trumbull,  the  brilliant  author  of  McFingal,  to 
whose  perusal  and  criticism  I  submitted  the  compilation  of  my  manuscripts, 
expressed  the  following  views  of  Dean's  character,  in  a  letter  dated  January, 
1823 : — "  Silas  Dean,  you  say,  among  other  things,  *  was  intent  on  getting  money, 
and  a  deadly  enemy  to  his  native  land.'  But  ambition,  not  avarice,  was  his  rul- 
ing passion.  In  his  early  transactions  at  the  court  of  France,  as  the  political  and 
commercial  agent  of  Congress,  he  rendered  important  services  to  his  country, 
but  by  exceeding  his  powers,  he  made  his  recall  necessary.  Exasperated  at  the 
cool  reception  he  met  with  on  his  return,  and  at  the  delay  in  settling  his  ac- 
counts, he  became  engaged  in  a  contest  with  many  of  the  most  influential  mem- 
bers of  Congress.  Defeated  in  many  of  his  purposes,  he  repaired  again  to 
France.     He  found  his  political  influence  lost,  with  the  loss  of  his  official  cha- 


132 


others  profess  to  believe  his  death  was  caused  by  poison.  He 
was  buried  on  an  island,  situated  in'a  small  pond,  and  embo- 
somed by  venerable  trees.  It  is  a  lovely  and  sequestered  spot, 
where  he  often  meditated  with  delight,  and  which  he  selected 
for  his  final  resting-place.  The  tomb  which  contains  his  ashes 
is  visible  from  the  road.  Our  curiosity  led  us  to  visit  this  re- 
markable chateau  and  garden,  and  above  all,  the  grave  of  the 
sensitive  Rousseau.     Over  his  tomb  is  inscribed : — 

"ICI    REPOSE    l'hOMME    DE    LA    NATURE, 

ET    DE    LA    VERITE. 

VITAM    IMPENDERE    VERO, 

HIC    JACET    OSSA    J.  J.  ROUSSEAU." 

Soon  after  my  return  to  Paris,  I  dined  and  spent  the  evening 
with  the  immortal  Franklin.  Arriving  at  an  early  hour,  I  dis- 
covered the  philosopher  in  a  distant  room,  reading,  in  the 
exact  posture  in  which  he  is  represented  by  an  admirable  en- 
graving from  his  portrait,  his  left  arm  resting  upon  the  table, 
and  his  chin  supported  by  the  thumb  of  his  right  hand.  The 
mingling  in  the  most  refined  and  exalted  society  of  both  hem- 
ispheres, had  communicated  to  his  manners  a  blandness  and 
urbanity,  well  sustained  by  his  native  grace  and  elegance  of 
deportment.  His  venerable  locks  waving  over  his  shoulders, 
and  the  dignity  of  his  personal  appearance,  commanded  rever- 
ence and  respect ;  and  yet  his  manners  were  so  pleasant  and 
fascinating,  that  one  felt  at  ease  and  unrestrained  in  his  pres- 

racter.  The  publication  of  a  number  of  his  letters,  written  during  his  residence 
in  France,  and  charging  the  French  Court  with  intrigue  and  duplicity  in  their  ne- 
gotiations with  us,  rendered  him  obnoxious,  and  drove  him  into  voluntary  exile 
in  the  Netherlands,  dissatisfied,  exasperated,  and  impoverished,  almost  to 
penury.  Thus  forced  into  an  unnatural  and  friendless  residence  in  foreign 
countries,  he  gave  himself  up  to  rage,  resentment,  and  actual  despair,  and  vented 
his  passions  in  execration  against  France,  America,  and  mankind.  In  this  con- 
dition you  found  him  in  the  interview  you  mention.  He  considered  himself  as  a 
man,  not  only  abused  and  ill- requited  for  important  services,  but  denied  those 
pecuniary  rewards,  which  had  been  promised  him,  for  his  agency  in  Europe. 
His  subsequent  situation  and  end,  you  probably  know." 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKAKAH  WATSON.  188 

ence.  He  inquired  if  I  knew  that  he  was  a  musician,  and  con- 
ducted me  across  the  room  to  an  instrument  of  his  own 
invention,  which  he  called  the  Harmonica.  The  music  was 
produced  by  a  peculiar  combination  of  hemispherical  glasses. 
At  my  solicitation  he  played  upon  it,  and  performed  some 
Scotch  pastorales  with  great  effect.  The  exnibition  was  truly 
striking  and  interesting ;  to  thus  contemplate  an  eminent  states- 
man, in  his  seventy-sixth  year,  and  the  most  distinguished  phi- 
losopher of  the  age,  performing  a  simple  pastorale  on  an  instru- 
ment of  his  own  construction.  The  interest  was  not  dimin- 
ished by  the  fact,  that  this  philosopher,  who  was  guiding  the 
intellects  of  thousands  ;  that  this  statesman,  an  object  of  ven- 
eration in  the  metropolis  of  Europe^  and  who  w^as  influencing 
the  destiny  of  nations,  had  been  an  untutored  printer's  boy  in 
America. 

Our  conversation  during  the  evening,  was  turned  to  the  all- 
absorbing  subject,  of  the  great  combination  of  the  French  and 
American  forces  against  Cornwallis.  Our  last  information  left 
the  affairs  in  Virginia  in  a  precarious  and  doubtful  posture. 
De  Grasse  had  entered  the  Chesapeake.  Washington  and 
Rochambeau  had  united  their  forces.  De  Barras,  with  seven 
sail  of  the  line,  had  left  Rhode  Island  to  join  De  Grasse.  The 
British  fleet  had  sailed  from  New- York,  with  ten  thousand 
troops  to  relieve  Cornwallis,  and  it  was  reported  that  a  rein- 
forcement had  departed  from  England  for  New- York.  Thus 
stood  the  general  aspect  of  our  intelligence,  at  a  crisis  which 
seemed  to  involve  the  existence  of  a  young  empire.  We 
weighed  probabilities,  balanced  possible  vicissitudes,  dissected 
maps.  We  feared  that  the  British  fleet  might  intercept  De 
Barras,  at  the  capes  of  Virginia,  and  thus  retrieve  its  superior- 
ity over  De  Grasse,  attack  and  overwhelm  him,  and  landing 
their  army,  defeat  and  break  up  the  combinations  of  Washing- 
ton. The  philosophy  and  self-possession,  even  of  Frankhn, 
seemed  almost  to  abandon  him  The  vibrations  of  hope  and 
fear  occupied  his  mind,  and  still  I  could  perceive  in  him  a 
deep  conviction  of  a  successful  issue  to  the  operations  of 
Washington.     I  left  him  at  night,  in  the  company  of  Dr.  Ban- 


134  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


croft,  an  American,  residing  in  London,  but  an  ardent  Whig, 
and  returned  to  Paris  in  deep  despondency,  sighing  over  the 
miseries  of  our  bleeding  country. 

At  dawn  the  next  morning,  I  was  aroused  by  a  thundering 
rap  at  my  door.  It  brought  me  a  circular  from  Dr.  FrankHn, 
struck  off  by  a  machine  somewhat  similar  to  the  copying  ma- 
chines of  the  present  day  ;  and  with  what  unspeakable  thank- 
fulness and  thrilling  interest  I  read  its  contents !  It  was  as 
follows : 

"  Copy   of  a  note  from  Count  de  Vergennes   to  Dr.  Franklin,  dated 
Versailles,  Idtk  Nov.,  1781,  11  o\lock  at  night. 

"  Sir  : — I  cannot  better  express  my  gratitude  to  you,  for  the  news 
you  often  communicate  to  me,  than  by  informing  you  that  the 
Due  de  Lausan  arrived  this  evening,  with  the  agreeable  news  that  the 
combined  armies  of  France  and  America  have  forced  Cornwallis  to 
capitulate.  The  English  garrison  came  out  of  Yorktown  the  19th  of 
October,  with  honors  of  war,  and  laid  down  their  arms  as  prisoners. 
About  six  thousand  troops,  eighteen  hundred  sailors,  twenty-two 
stand  of  colors,  and  one  hundred  and  seventy  pieces  of  cannon — 
seventy-five  of  which  are  brass — are  the  trophies  which  signalize  this 
victory ;  besides,  a  ship  of  fifty  guns  was  burnt,  also  a  frigate, 
and  a  great  number  of  transports. 

"  I  have  the  honor,  &c., 

"De  Vergennes. 

"To  his  Excellency,  Dr.  Franklin.*" 

The  next  day  I  waited  on  Dr.  Franklin,  in  common  with 
many  American  and  French  gentlemen,  to  offer  our  mutual 
congratulations.  He  appeared  in  an  ecstacy  of  joy,  observing, 
"  There  is  no  parallel  in  history  of  two  entire  armies  being  cap- 
tured from  the  same  enemy  in  any  one  war." 

The  delight  and  rejoicings  of  all  classes  of  the  people  were 
excessive.  Paris  was  illuminated  for  three  successive  nights. 
On  my  return  to  Nantes,  along  the  banks  of  the  Loire,  I  found 
all  the  cities  in  a  blaze  of  illumination,  and  Nantes  in  the 
midst  of  it  on  my  arrival, 

*The  original  of  this  deeply  interesting  document,  and,  indeed,  the  originals  of 
nearly  all  the  correspondence  and  documents  referred  to  in  this  work,  arc  in  the 
possession  of  the  editox. 


135 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

Correspondence  with  Washington — Mercantile  Prosperity — Influenza— CoL 
Laurens — Henry  Laurens — Paris — Envoys— Journey  to  England — 
Amiens  —  Boulogne  —  Calais  —  Mon.  Dess  iin — Yurick — Cross  the 
Channel — Changes — Reynolds'  Escape — Dover — London — Lord  Shel- 
burne — Comparison  of  France  and  England — Duke  of  Manchester — 
English  Society — Greenwich  Hospital — Blackheath — Dr.  Price. 

The  following  winter,  wishing  to  pay  some  mark  of  respect 
to  our  beloved  Washington,  I  employed,  in  conjunction  with 
my  friend  M.  Cossoul,  nuns  in  one  of  the  convents  at  Nantes 
to  prepare  some  elegant  nr.asonic  ornaments,  and  gave  them  a 
plan  for  combining  the  American  and  French  flags  on  the  apron 
designed  for  his  use.  They  were  executed  in  a  superior  and 
expensive  style.  We  transmitted  them  to  America,  accompa- 
nied by  an  address,  and  received  from  him  a  beautiful  and 
appropriate  acknowledgment.  The  following  are  copies  of  our 
letter  and  the  reply  : 

"  To  his  Excellency,  General  Washington,  America. 

'*MosT  Illustrious  and  Respected  Brother: 

"In  the  moment  when  all  Europe  admire  and  feel  the  effects  o 
your  glorious  efforts  in  support  of  American  liberty,  we  hasten  to 
offer  for  your  acceptance  a  siriall  pledge  of  our  homage.  Zealous 
lovers  of  liberty  and  its  institutions,  we  have  experienced  the  most 
refined  joy  in  seeing  our  chief  and  brother  stand  forth  in  jts  defence, 
and  in  defence  of  a  new-born  nation  of  Republicans. 

"Your  glorious  career  will  not  be  confined  to  the  protection  of 
American  liberty,  but  its  ultimate  effect  will  extend  to  the  whole 
human  family,  since  Providence  has  evidently  selected  you  as  an 
instrument  in  his  hands,  to  fulfil  His  eternal  decrees. 

"  It  is  to  you,  therefore,  the  glorious  orb  of  America,  we  presume  to 
offer  Masonic  ornaments,  as  an  emblem  of  your  virtues.  May  the 
grand  Architect  of  the  universe  be  the  Guardian  of  your  precious  days, 
for  the  glory  of  the  Western  Hemisphere  and  the  entire  universe. 
Such  are  the  vows  of  those  who  have  the  favor  to  be  by  all  the  known 
numbers,  "  Your  affectionate  brothers, 

"  Watson  &  Cossoul. 

"JEast  of  Nantes,  23d:  \st  Month,  5782." 


136  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

''State  ofNew-Tork,  Aug.  lOtk,  1782. 

"  Gentlemen  : — The  Masonic  ornaments  which  accompanied  your 
brotherly  address  of  the  23d  of  January  last,  though  elegant  in  them- 
selves, were  rendered  more  valuable  by  the  flattering  sentiments  and 
affectionate  manner  in  which  they  were  presented. 

"  If  my  endeavors  to  avert  the  evil  with  which  the  country  was 
threatened,  by  a  deliberate  plan  of  tyranny,  should  be  crowned  with 
the  success  that  is  wished,  the  praise  is  due  to  the  Grand  Architect 
of  the  universe,  who  did  not  see  fit  to  suffer  his  superstructure  of 
justice  to  be  subjected  to  the  ambition  of  the  Princes  of  this  world, 
or  to  the  rod  of  oppression  in  the  hands  of  any  pewer  upon  earth. 

".For  your  affectionate  vows  permit  me  to  be  grateful,  and  offer 
mine  for  true  brothers  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  to  assure  you  of 
the  sincerity  with  which  I  am, 

"Yours, 

"Geo.  Washington. 
"  Messrs.  Watson  &  Cossoul,  East  of  Nantes." 

Nothing  of  material  interest  occurred  for  several  months.  I 
continued  ardently  devoted  to  my  mercantile  pursuits.  Good 
fortune  and  prosperity  had  attended  all  our  enterprises,  so  that 
in  '82  we  had  estimated  our  net  profits  at  40,000  guineas.  Our 
house  had  attained  a  high  eminence.  We  employed  seven 
clerks ;  had  a  little  fleet  of  six  ships  and  brigs  lying  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Loire.  I  was  at  the  zenith  of  my  commercial 
prosperity;  but  other  destinies  of  a  far  different  cast,  as  will 
appear  in  the  sequel,  were  in  reserve  for  me. 

I  have  been  induced  to  present  these  details  to  demonstrate 
to  my  descendants  how  important  it  is  for  young  men  to  seek 
resources  in  their  own  minds — to  rely  on  their  own  hands — to 
earn  their  bread  by  the  sweat  of  their  brow,  and  to  spurn  the 
props  of  wealth  earned  by  others. 

In  proportion  to  our  prosperity  contributions  were  levied  on 
my  purse,  by  needy  friends  in  America,  as  well  as  by  distressed 
American  officers,  held  in  rigorous  confinement  at  Mill  prison, 
near  Plymouth,  England.  Through  the  medium  of  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Heath,  near  that  place,  it  was  my  good  fortune  to 
relieve  many,  and  to  enable  some  to  effect    their  escapes . 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  137 

the  gallant  Col.  Talbot  and  Capt.  Smeadley  were  of  their 
number.* 

During  the  year  1781,  I  prepared  for  publication  and  trans- 
mitted to  America,  an  article  suggested  by  my  observations  in 
both  countries,  and  contrasting,  in  some  particulars,  their  man- 
ners and  customs.  My  strictures  were  somewhat  severe  upon 
my  own  country,  but  the  production  was  extensively  repub- 
lished in  America,  and,  I  have  reason  to  hope,  was  not  unfa- 
vorably received.  I  conjecture  a  few  extracts  from  it  may  not 
be  inappropriate  at  this  period. 

"  In  all  civilized  countries,  we  find  many  customs  dictated 
by  reason,  and  worthy  of  imitation.  On  the  other  hand,  many 
have  crept  into  society,  which  are  only  supported  by  the  arbi- 
trary mandates  of  fashion.  Those  who  have  only  vegetated 
beneath  the  smoke  of  their  native  land,  seldom  discover  any 
improprieties  or  imperfections  in  customs  become  familiar  by 
habit ;  but  an  observing  traveller,  who  posts  through  other  re- 
gions, emancipated  from  the  shackles  of  his  youth,  with  a 
mind  open  to  conviction,  discovers  at  once  the  absurdities  of 
his  own  country,  as  well  as  those  he  traverses. 

''  Although  taught  at  an  English  school,  from  infancy,  that 
the  French  people  eat  frogs  ;  make  soup  from  old  bones,  and 
are  a  half-starved  nation  ;  that  politeness  in  France  is  formed 
by  ceremony,  and  the  grimaces  of  the  monkey  ;  yet  I  am  firmly 
persuaded  there  is  no  people,  under  high  Heaven's  broad  ca- 
nopy, who  understand  the  secret  of  making  the  most  of  life, 
and  of  good  living,  so  well  as  the  French  ;  and  that  in  no 
country  does  genuine  politeness,  the  emanations  of  the  kindly 
feelings  of  the  heart,  and  the  true  spirit  of  "  sans  souci,"  so  ge- 

*I  find  among  the  papers  of  Mr.  Watson  a  letter  on  this  subject  from  Col. 
Talbot,  of  which  the  following  is  a  copy  : 

Mill  Prison,  Eng.,  9  Aug.  1781. 

Sir  : — The  twenty-five  guineas  which  you  have  generously  sent  me,  while  it 
lays  me  under  a  deep  obligation,  is  much  enhanced  by  your  attention  in  writing 
Mrs.  Talbot  my  situation,  as  bad  as  it  is.  I  thank  you  most  cordially.  Many 
others  of  my  fellow  prisoners  have  experienced  your  goodness,  and  pray  with  me 
that  Heaven  may  bless  and  prosper  you. 

Your  obliged  friend,  Silas  Talbot. 

Mr.  E.  Watson,  Merchant,  Nantes,  France. 


138 


nerally  predominate,  as  in  France  ;  while  in  no  land  does 
there  prevail  so  much  gloom,  formality  and  awkwardness,  as 
in  England,  whence  we  have  derived  our  tone. 

*'  The  ridiculous  habit  of  drinking  healths  at  table  prevailed 
in  France,  but  is  now  confined  to  the  lower  grades  in  society. 
A  simple  salute  to  the  lady  of  the  house   at  present  suffices.^ 

"  In  large  circles  in  America  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a 
man  to  eat  his  dinner  in  peace,  whilst  attacked  on  every  side, 
at  the  same  moment,  and  obliged  by  custom,  to  return  so  many 
thanks.  In  France  every  man  eats  his  dinner  quietly,  and" 
drinks  when  and  what  he  pleases. 

"  In  America,  we  take  our  formal  awkward  leave  of  large 
circles,  hobbling  out  of  the  room,  as  if  treading  among  eggs,  or 
apprehensive  of  being  arrested  in  our  course.  In  France,  when 
one  is  disposed  to  quit,  he  takes  his  cane  and  hat,  and  slips 
off  without  a  word ;  thus,  no  person  is  disturbed. 

"  Our  young  men  in  America  are  wont  to  play  the  character 
of  a  '  hearty  fellow,'  one  of  whose  properties  is  to  get  drunk, 
which  many  do  without  a  blush  ;  and  what  would  be  degrading 
to  savages,  it  is  not  unusual  to  turn  the  key  upon  the  sober,  to 
compel  them  to  yield  to  the  barbarous  practice.  In  France,  no 
gentleman  gets  drunk ;  he  would  be  debarred,  and  forever  dis- 
carded from  the  society  of  virtuous  females.  None  but  the 
dregs  of  community  are  thus  degraded." 

In  the  summer  of  1782,  the  influenza  made  the  circuit  of  Eu- 
rope, commencing,  as  it  was  said,  at  St.  Petersburgh.  It  reach- 
ed Nantes,  and  our  family,  clerks,  servants,  officers  and  sailors 
in  our  employment,  were  all  prostrated  by  it,  and  our  opera- 
tions suspended.  I  was  stricken  down  by  the  attack,  and  for 
many  weeks  was  so  debilitated,  as  to  be  disabled  from  attend- 
ing to  business. 

With  a  view  to  the  recovery  of  my  health,  and  to  take  advan- 
tage of  any  commercial  changes  which  might  result  from  the 
general  peace,  that  now  seemed  imminent,  I  determined,  if  prac- 
ticable, to  proceed  to  England.  In  pursuance  of  this  plan,  I 
made  preparations  for  this  extensive  tour.     I  was  to  set  off  in 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  139 

company  with  Mr.  Laurens,  who  then  was  in  the  vicinity  of 
my  residence. 

This  venerable  gentleman  was  the  father  of  Col.  Laurens, 
who,  the  last  year,  had  been  sent  on  a  special  mission  to  the 
court  of  France.  The  loan  which  he  accomplished,  and  the 
expedition  of  De  Grasse,  resulted  in  the  capture  of  Cornwallis. 
Although  a  youth  of  only  twenty-eight  years,  he  achieved,  by 
his  consummate  tact  and  extraordinary  abilities,  what  the 
powerful  influence  of  Franklin  had  failed  to  effect. 

Mr.  Laurens  was  formerly  President  of  Congress,  and  was 
appointed  Ambassador  to  Holland,  but,  as  I  have  already  rela- 
ted, was  captured,  and  committed  to  the  tower.  Through  the 
interposition  of  Mr.  Burke  and  others,  he  was  temporarily  re- 
leased on  parole,  and  was  now  on  his  return. 

Mr.  Laurens  acted  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  drama  of  the 
Revolution.  He  was  a  citizen  of  South  Carolina ;  a  man  of 
great  wealth  and  high  position.  He  had  a  swarthy  complexion, 
was  of  medium  size,  and  slender  form.  He  was  a  pleasant  and 
facetious  gentleman,  and  a  pure  and  devoted  Whig.  Failing 
to  accompany  me,  he  was  to  rejoin  me  at  Paris  or  London. 

On  the  31st  August,  1782,  I  left  Nantes,  boxed  up  in  a  con- 
venient post-chaise,  by  the  great  Paris  road,  with  my  servant, 
La  Fieur,  galloping  in  advance.  As  this  faithful  attendant  will 
be  frequently  adverted  to,  I  will  briefly  sketch  his  history.  He 
was  born  in  a  valley  of  Auvergne,  contiguous  to  Switzerland, 
whose  peasantry  are  proverbial  for  their  honesty  and  faithful- 
ness. La  Fleur  having  a  tincture  of  enterprise  in  his  compo- 
sition, emerged  from  his  native  mountains  in  the  character  of 
a  pedlar.  Chance  directed  him  to  Nantes,  where  he  dropped 
the  pedlar,  and  assumed  the  eminent  profession  of  chimney- 
sweep. 

Passing  one  day  the  corner  of  a  lane,  I  caught  a  glance  of 
his  eye,  enveloped  in  soot.  I  spoke  to  him  ;  his  answer,  the 
expression  of  his  eye,  the  peculiarity  of  his  smile  and  features, 
and  his  being  a  peasant  of  Auvergne,  prepossessed  me  in  his 
favor.  A  whim  decided  me  to  take  him  under  my  wing,  and 
I  bade    him    follow  me,   and  then  sent  him   to  the  river  to 


140 


wash  away  his  filth  and  soot.  1  soon  arrayed  him  in  new 
apparel,  and  drilled  him  to  my  service.  A  more  faithful  ser- 
vant no  poor  traveller  was  ever  blessed  with.  He  wandered 
with  me  nearly  two  thousand  miles.  In  wet  and  dry,  in  cold 
and  heat,  in  every  incident,  La  Fieur  was  at  my  call. 

In  leaving  Nantes,  in  '83,  forever,  I  placed  him  with  a  mas- 
ter cooper.  He  ran  after  my  carriage  through  the  city,  in  the 
warmth  of  his  affection  and  gratitude,  even  to  the  Paris  road; 
and  the  last  I  saw  of  him,  at  a  mile's  distance,  he  was  still  wav- 
ing his  white  handkerchief —Adieu,  La  Fleur! 

In  describing  this  extensive  tour,  I  shall  avoid  the  dry  de- 
tail of  a  diary,  and  propose  to  compress  the  leading  features  of 
my  journal  in  a  concise  review  of  the  whole  ground,  as  it  em- 
braces my  observation  of  men,  places,  manners  and  customs. 

I  had  so  often  traversed  the  road  to  Paris,  that  the  postil- 
lions exclaimed,  "  viola  encore  moh  Boston^." 

The  day  after  my  arrival  at  Paris,  I  waited  on  several 
distinguished  American  functionaries — Dr.  Franklin,  Mr. 
Adams,  Mr.  Jay,  and  our  Consul-General,  Mr.  Barkley,  who 
were  concentrated  at  that  point.  This  fact,  and  the  knowledge 
of  the  presence  of  Mr.  Vaughan,  an  intimate  personal  friend 
of  Lord  Shelburne,  and  the  secret  agent  of  the  British  govern- 
ment, induced  the  behef  that  an  informal  negotiation  was  in 
progress.* 

It  was  pretty  loudly  whispered  in  private  circles,  that  the 
pride  of  John  Bull  was  so  far  humbled,  particularly  by  the  sur- 
render of  Cornwallis,  as  to  be  prepared  to  yield  the  great  point 
in  controversy — the  admission  of  American  Independence.  I 
noticed,  however,  with  deep  pain,  that  the  venerable  Franklin 
was  probably  in  the  last   stages  of  life,  which  I  feared  might 

*  Mr.  Vaughan  was  of  American  lineage.  He  was  member  of  Parliament, 
upon  the  Whig  side  of  the  house  ;  friendly  to  the  cause  of  American  Indepen- 
dence, and  essentially  aided  our  ministers  in  Europe  in  promoting  the  acknow- 
ledgment of  our  nationality.  Although  a  friend  to  order  and  good  government,  his 
liberal  views  rendered  him,  in  '93,  obnoxious  to  the  British  government.  He 
emigrated  to  America,  and  settled  in  Hallowell,  Maine,  where  he  died  at  an  ad- 
vanced age. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  141 

terminate,  even  before  the  first  object  of  all  his  wishes  was 
consummated — the  establishment  of  our  Independence.  His 
triumph  then  would  be  complete  over  the  insolent  Wedderburn, 
and  the  regal  George  be  humbled  into  the  dust. 

I  determined  to  avail  myself,  if  possible,  of  the  packets  now 
established  between  Dover  and  Calais,  with  the  sole  object  of 
facilitating  diplomatic  communications,  to  plant  my  foot  upon 
old  England,  the  land  of  my  forefathers.  1  found  serious  im- 
pediments crossing  my  path.  If  I  should  surmount  the  diffi- 
culties of  effecting  a  passage.  Doctor  Franklin  suggested  in  the 
most  friendly  manner,  that  I  would  encounter  extensive  hazard 
in  going  into  an  exasperated  enemy's  country,  an  avowed  rebel, 
and  exposed  as  I  would  be  to  the  suspicion,  from  my  commer- 
cial relations,  of  communicating  information  to  American  pri» 
vateers,  as  well  as  diplomatists.  He  yielded,  however,  to  my 
importunity,  granted  me  a  passport,  and  furnished  me  with 
letters  to  some  of  the  most  eminent  philosophers  and  statesmen 
of  England ;  and  among  them.  Dr.  Priestly  of  Birmingham ; 
Dr.  Price,  of  Hackney,  and  Mr.  Burke.  Mr.  Vaughan  en- 
trusted me  with  a  packet  to  Lord  Shelburne,  which  I  engaged 
to  deliver  the  moment  of  my  arrival  in  London.  This  fact 
gave  me  every  assurance  of  safety  and  protection,  shielded  as  I 
should  thus  be  by  the  wing  of  the  Minister. 

I  left  Paris  on  the  9th  Sept.,  1782,  for  London,  again  passing 
through  St.  Denis  and  Chantilly. 

The  next  day  we  travelled  on  one  of  those  pure  and  exhila- 
rating days,  so  cheering  in  France,  along  a  level  and  highly 
cultivated  country,  passing  through  Clermont,  Amiens,  and 
Abbeville,  in  Picardy.  We  rode  all  night,  and  just  as  the  day 
dawned,  heard  the  distant  roar  of  the  surges  beating  upon  the 
shore  of  the  British  Channel.  We  stopped  upon  the  brow  of  a 
hill  to  listen,  and  soon  after  the  sun  rose  in  splendour  and  ge- 
nial warmth,  revealing  in  full  view,  the  panorama  of  Boulogne 
"  sur  mer" — the  channel,  and  the  English  coast.  This  was  my 
first  glimpse  of  the  land  of  my  fathers. 

We  continued  upon  an  elevated  road,  parallel  to  the  coast, 
with  the  spires  of  Calais  towering  before  us.     Poor  La  Fleur 


142 


had  been  pounding  in  the  saddle  on  a  bidet,  all  night  and  all 
the  day  before  ;  sometimes  in  the  dirt,  and  again  astride  of  the 
horse,  galloping  away,  reeling  and  pitching,  half  dead  from  the 
want  of  sleep  and  excessive  fatigue.  Yet  he  persisted,  with 
the  fidelity  of  a  Newfoundland  dog.  1  pitied  him,  but  we  must 
all  pay  for  our  curiosity. 

At  Amiens  I  had  been  perfectly  enveloped  by  a  crowd  of 
beggars,  of  all  sizes  and  descriptions.  The  prominent  charac- 
ter among  them  presented  a  most  ludicrous  appearance,  with 
his  ragged  ruffles  hanging  in  shreds,  and  his  clothes  in  tatters, 
begging  vociferously,  **  Au  mon  Dieu !" 

Boulogne  is  pleasantly  situated,  upon  the  declivities  of  a  hill 
and  commands  an  extensive  prospect.  It  was  strongly  fortified, 
and  claimed  to  be  a  harbor,  although  the  anchorage  was  bad  and 
dangerous,  being  exposed  to  the  sweep  of  the  sea.  The  celebra- 
ted "  Courier  de  I'Europe,"  edited  by  Brissot,  was,  from  this 
point,  diffused  throughout  Europe,  guardedly  disseminating  re- 
publican sentiments. 

At  Calais,  we  thundered  into  the  court-yard  of  Monsieur 
Dessein,  immortalized  by  Yorick.  We  had  hardly  entered, 
before  I  saw  him  approaching,  with  his  hat  under  his  arm,  and  at 
once  recognized  him  by  the  accuracy  of  Sterne's  description. 
His  manner,  the  position  of  the  hat,  his  wig,  and  polite  civili- 
ties, all  attested  the  identity  of  the  man,  and  whilst  conversing 
with  him,  the  scene  of  Sterne's  description  seemed  to  be  real- 
ized by  the  approach  of  a  monk,  begging  for  his  convent.  The 
harbor  is  formed  like  that  of  Ostend,  by  a  quay  projecting  into 
the  sea  for  half  a  mile. 

The  remembrance  of  Yorick  was  familiar  to  Monsieur  Des- 
sein. I  observed  to  him — ''  Sir,  you  are  immortalized  by 
Sterne ;  you  are  known  to  all  civilized  nations,  and  will  live 
through  many  generations."  "  Ah  !  yes  !"  he  replied,  "  but  I 
do  not  thank  Monsieur  Sterne  for  comparing  me  to  a  Jew  or 
a  Turk." 

We  crossed  the  channel  in  about  a  three  hours  sail,  ran 
along  the  white  cliffs  of  Dover  for  some  distance,  and  then, 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  143 

suddenly  doubling  a  point,  dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor  of 
Dover.  We  were  at  once  boarded  by  the  emissaries  of 
hungry  landlords,  and  in  obedience  to  my  rebellious  propensi- 
ties, I  repaired  to  the  "  King's  Head."  I  had  been  habituated, 
for  the  last  three  years,  to  the  language,  manners,  and  habits  of 
the  French  and  Germans.  In  a  moment,  as  it  were,  the  mas- 
sive white  structures  of- France  gave  place  to  the  brick  build- 
ings of  England — the  whole  scene  was  changed.  I  every- 
where heard  my  native  tongue.  I  saw  the  architecture  and 
customs  of  my  country,  and  even  the  boys  in  the  streets  were 
engaged  in  the  games  of  my  youth.  I  felt  as  if  the  workings 
of  magic  had  transported  me  to  America.  This  was  the  land  of 
our  rancorous  foe  and  imperious  tyrants  ;  still  it  was  the  land  of 
our  forefathers. 

On  the  eve  of  my  departure  from  Paris,  Mr.  Sayer,  an  Ame- 
rican by  birth,  but  a  former  resident  of  London,  who  had  been 
committed  to  the  Tow^r  on  a  ridiculous  charge  of  plotting  to 
seize  the  person  of  George  III.,  and  subsequently  had  been  ex- 
patriated, solicited  me  to  aid  in  the  escape  of  a  young  English- 
man, the  son  of  an  eminent  barrister  in  London. 

It  was  impossible  to  insert  the  name  of  Reynolds  in  my  pass- 
port. There  was  no  alternative  but  for  him  to  pass  as  my 
servant  and  associate  with  La  Fleur.  He  was  equipped  as  a 
servant,  and  accompanied  me  in  that  capacity.  Whilst  La 
Fleur,  however,  was  galloping  along  the  road  from  Paris  to 
Calais,  Reynolds  was  snugly  napping  in  the  corner  of  my  car- 
riage. At  Calais,  whilst  I  was  negotiating  with  the  Commis- 
sioner for  my  passport  to  Dover,  that  of  Dr.  Franklin  terminat- 
ing at  Calais,  Reynolds  was  trembling  in  the  court-yard,  await- 
ing with  La  Fleur  to  be  inspected  and  described.  I  succeeded 
in  passing  both  as  my  servants,  and  marched  to  the  wharf  of 
embarcation,  through  the  streets,  with  each  of  my  servants 
bearing  a  bundle,  to  screen  Reynolds. 

When  we  arrived  at  Dover,  my  brother  traveller,  to  the 
wonderment  of  La  Fleur,  threw  otf  the  masque,  and  as  he 
stood  on  British  ground,  seemed  an  inch  taller.  With  me  the 
case  was  reversed.     I  felt  apprehensive  in  an  enemy^s  country, 


144  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  KEVOLUTION; 

and  thought  in  turn  I  might  want  the  protection  of  Reynolds, 
or  of  his  powerful  connections.  Such  are  the  vicissitudes  of 
life ! 

I  confess  I  could  not  divest  myself  of  apprehension,  standing 
alone  upon  the  soil  of  that  country,  which  for  seven  long  years 
had  torn  my  native  land  at  every  point,  and  had  devastated  her 
coast  with  fire  and  desolation.  Even  there,  I  could  not 
repress  the  exulting  reflection,  that  we  had  gloriously  avenged 
ourselves,  by  the  capture  of  two  entire  armies,  by  numerous 
victories,  and  by  ravaging  her  commerce  in  every  sea,  and  even 
along  her  own  coast. 

Dover  was  not  large  ;  its  streets  were  narrow,  long,  and  dirty. 
It  is  romantically  situated  in  a  valley,  with  high,  impending  cliflTs 
on  either  side.  The  castle  which  defends  it  is  about  half  a 
mile  east  of  the  city,  and  was  very  strong  and  capacious.  Its 
site  spread  over  nearly  thirty  acres  of  ground.  Here  was  the 
celebrated  "  pocket  pistol"  of  Queen  EHzabeth,  that  had  a  lie 
engraved  upon  its  face,  in  the  boastful  promise  of  carrying  a 
hall  to  Calais  hill,  a  distance  of  twenty-one  miles.  I  was 
shown  at  the  castle  a  remarkable  well  of  immense  depth,  per- 
forating the  solid  chalk ;  its  sides  were  perfectly  smooth,  and  a 
mere  pebble,  dropped  from  the  hand,  and  bounding  in  its  de- 
scent from  side  to  side,  produced  an  astonishing  report.  From 
Dover  Castle  we  enjoyed  a  fine  panoramic  view  of  the  British 
channel,  the  French  coast,  a  distant  glimpse  of  the  German 
ocean,  with  the  town  and  harbor  of  Dover  at  our  feet,  and 
the  waving  fields  of  old  England,  spreading  far  west  and 
north,  studded  by  villages  and  towering  spires. 

We  passed  through  Canterbury ;  its  cathedral  is  in  the  style 
of  the  Gothic  models  of  France,  and  other  Roman  Catholic 
countries.  We  traversed,  in  our  progress  towards  the  capital, 
an  undulating,  but  richly  cultivated  and  interesting  country. 
In  our  rapid  journey  we  passed  through  Chatham,  Rochester, 
Dartford,  Greenwich,  and  Woolwich.  From  various  positions 
during  the  day,  we  caught  a  view  of  the  Thames,  covered 
with  ships,  like  bees  returning  to  their  hives,  bearing  the  col- 
lected sweets  of  every  clime.  The  lofty  dome  of  St.  Paul's 
seemed  to  welcome  our  approach  to  London;     now  gilded 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOl^.  145 

spires  began  to  appear,  then  vast  piles  of  chimneys,  forests  of 
masts,  and  the  confused  scenes  of  a  world  within  a  world,  rap- 
idly opened  to  our  enraptured  gaze,  and. attracted  and  absorbed 
all  our  faculties,  as  they  thickened  around  and  bewildered  us. 
I  stopped  at  the  rendezvous  appointed  with  Mr.  Laurens,  at 
Nantes,  and  then  immediately  proceeded  with  my  dispatches 
to  Lord  Shelburne,  who  graciously  received  me,  and  spent  some 
time  in  a  free  conversation  about  American  affairs,  and  inqui- 
ries relative  to  Dr.  Franklin. 

Since  the  first  hour  of  my  landing  in  England,  I  have  been 
amazed  at  the  difference  in  the  aspect  of  every  thing  onthe  two 
sides  of  the  channel.  These  old  countries,  in  actual  view  of 
each  other,  are  as  unlike  as  if  separated  by  the  expanse  of 
mighty  oceans.  The  houses,  the  face  of  the  country,  the  figure 
and  size  of  the  people,  nay,  the  very  animals,  are  changed. 
Everything  but  the  houses  are  on  an  amplified  scale  in  Eng- 
land. Most  of  the  men  at  Dover  seemed  like  moving  butts  of 
porter,  compared  to  the  meagre  inhabitants  of  Calais.  The 
Englishwoman  appeared  heavy  and  clumsily  built,  in  contrast 
with  the  gay  females  of  France. 

In  delivering  my  various  letters,  I  waited  first  on  the  Duke 
of  Manchester,  at  his  splendid  residence.  His  elegant  person 
and  imposing  manners,  impressed  me  with  a  high  estimation  of 
the  dignity  and  character  of  the  English  nobleman.  Sitting 
with  him  alone,  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  by  his  introduction 
of  the  conversation. 

"  I  observed  by  one  of  the  morning  papers,"  he  remarked, 
"  that  a  messenger  of  peace  had  arrived  the  preceding  evening ; 
are  you  the  person,  sir  ?"  ''  Yes,"  I  replied,  "  I  brought  dis- 
patches  to  Lord  Shelburne,  and  trust  that  this  circumstance  will 
ensure  me  personal  safety,  and  an  opportunity  of  freely  travel- 
ling in  England."  He  replied,  "  Undoubtedly,  sir  ;"  and  I  then 
perceived  by  his  questions,  that  he  was  sounding  me  as  to  my 
knowledge  of  the  fact,  that  the  government  had  just  come  to  a 
decision  to  acknowledge  our  Independence.  He  then  gave 
me  the  first  assurance  I  had  obtained  of  that  event. 

In  a  few  days  after  my  arrival  in  London,  I  went  to  Black- 

10 


146  MEN  AND  TIMES   OP  THE  REVOLUTION; 

heath,  near  the  city,  to  pass  the  day  at  one  of  the  sumptuous 
seats  in  that  vicinity.  This  was  the  first  exhibition  I  had  wit- 
nessed of  English  hospitahty,  and  fashionable  manners  at 
their  board.  Everything  was  conducted  on  a  style  of  great 
splendour  and  magnificence.  Their  table  customs  are  very 
similar  to  those  of  the  refined  circles  of  America.  The  man- 
ners of  the  ladies  of  England  and  America  are  cold,  distant 
and  forbidding,  when  contrasted  with  the  airy  and  animated  car- 
riage of  the  females  of  France.  In  gracefulness  and  elegance  of 
manners,  the  ladies  of  France  incomparably  surpass  those  of 
England  and  America.  Cordiality  and  simplicity  character- 
ize the  manners  of  America. 

Our  scattered  population,  and  the  absence  of  the  luxurious 
habits  and  customs  incident  to  a  greater  progress  in  wealth 
and  refinement,  create  these  desirable  distinctions  ;  but  as  we 
advance  in  the  march  of  empire,  and  our  population  becomes 
more  condensed,  our  manners  will  more  assimilate  to  those  of 
Europe,  and  become  less  simple  and  more  impure. 

I  have  often  speculated  upon  the  probable  influence  on  the 
happiness  and  progress  of  society,  if  the  Sovereign  of  the  Uni- 
verse should,  by  His  Almighty  fiat,  interpose  a  wall  of  separa- 
tion between  the  Eastern  and  Western  continents,  The  one, 
sinking  into  the  dotage  and  imbecility  of  decay,  would  be  de- 
prived of  the  renovating  influence  of  its  young  offspring,  whilst 
the  other  would  be  protected  from  the  contaminating  effects  of 
the  matured  corruptions  of  the  old  world. 

The  servants  attending  upon  my  friend's  table  were  all 
neatly  dressed,  and  extremely  active  and  adroit  in  performing 
their  offices,  and  glided  about  the  room,  silent  and  attentive. 
Their  silence  was  in  striking  contrast  with  the  volubility  of  the 
French  attendants,  who,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  I  have  of- 
ten observed  in  France,  intermingling  in  the  conversation  of 
the  table.  Here,  the  servant,  however  cherished,  is  held  at  an 
awful  distance.  The  English  servant  is  generally  an  ignorant 
and  servile  being,  who  has  no  aspiration  beyond  his  present  de- 
pendent condition. 

In  America,  our  domestic  feels  the  consciousness,  that  he  in 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  147 

turn  may  become  himself  a  master.  This  feeling  may,  per- 
haps, impair  his  usefulness  as  a  servant,  but  cannot  be  depre- 
cated, whilst  it  adds  to  his  self-respect  as  a  man. 

J  noticed  another  custom  of  the  English  table,  that  associ- 
ates it  with  the  habits  of  America,  and  strongly  variant  from 
those  of  France.  Instead  of  the  ladies  mingling  in  the  ar- 
rangement at  the  table  as  in  France,  they  are  clustered  around 
the  lady  of  the  house,  at  one  extremity,  as  if  seeking  her  pro- 
tection. The  effect  of  this  usage  is,  to  withdraw  the  ladies 
from  the  conversation  of  the  social  board,  and  to  throw  around 
them  a  studied  reserve  and  chilling  constraint. 

The  ladies  of  France  take  the  lead  in  social  intercourse,  and 
talk  upon  every  subject,  whether  they  understand  it  or  not. 
The  day  previous  to  my  departure  from  Paris,  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  witnessing  a  delightful  exhibition  of  the  warmth  and 
tenderness  of  the  French  female  character. 

Whilst  dining  in  a  large  circle,  the  awful  catastrophe  of  the 
*'Eoyal  George"  was  announced.  It  was  amid  the  heated  ex- 
citement and  burning  animosities  of  a  sanguinary  war ;  yet 
every  female  was  bathed  in  tears,  and  seemed  to  be  oppressed 
by  the  most  sincere  sorrow  and  regret.  I  am  aware  this  deep 
sympathy  was  evanescent,  for  the  light-hearted  French  never 
dwell  upon,  or  cherish  any  sorrow,  but  habitually  dance  over 
the  ills  of  life. 

We  devoted  the  afternoon  to  rambling  over  Blackheath, 
Greenwich  Hospital,  and  the  Park.  I  noticed  many  elegant  man- 
sions upon  the  borders  of  the  heath,  and  amongst  others  the 
residence  of  the  late  Earl  of  Chesterfield,  where  he  spent  the 
latter  years  of  his  life,  and  whence  he  wrote  his  celebrated 
letters  to  his  son.  Greenwich  Hospital  is  a  noble  and  benevo- 
lent Institution,  worthy  of  the  munificence  of  a  great  nation. 
In  this  last  harbor  of  poor  Jack,  are  moored  about  five  thou, 
sand  maimed  and  worn-down  sailors,  who  have  devoted  their 
lives  to  sustain  the  glory  of  the  flag  of  old  England.  Here  they 
are  comfortably  maintained  and  preserved  from  want  and  suf- 
fering.  The  hospital  occupies  an  imposing  position,  command- 
ing a  fine  view  of  the  Thames.     Its  noble  terrace  in  front, 


148  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  KEVOLUTION ; 

and  extensive  park  behind  the  building,  the  court  and  colon- 
nades, are  all  on  a  splendid  scale  of  magnificence.  The  park 
fs  adorned  by  venerable  oaks,  and  enlivened  by  herds  of  tame 
deer.  In  its  centre  is  situated  the  Royal  Observatory.  On  a 
side  hill  descending  towards  the  park,  we  observed  multitudes 
of  the  citizens  of  London,  regaling  themselves  in  sports  and, 
popular  pastimes. 

Blackheath  and  Shuter's  hill,  which  descend  towards  it, 
have  long  been  notorious  in  the  annals  of  highwaymen.  A 
gentleman  with  whom  I  had  dined,  witnessed  in  the  evening, 
as  he  crossed  the  heath,  the  robbing  of  a  coach.  The  gross 
violation  of  public  safety,  in  the  daring  excesses  of  English 
highwaymen,  casts  a  deep  imputation  upon  the  state  of  society 
in- England.  Nothing  of  the  kind  is  apprehended  in  France. 
The  excellence  of  the  police  of  France,  in  the  country  as  well 
as  the  city,  affords  an  almost  perfect  security  against  the  out- 
rages so  common  in  England.  I  travelled  in  France  whole 
nights  without  a  shade  of  apprehension.  Loose  articles  of  bag- 
gage may  be  left  in  a  carriage,  standing  in  an  open  court-yard 
during  the  night,  with  almost  as  much  safety  as  in  the  wilds 
of  America. 

I  had  been  favored  by  Dr.  Franklin  with  a  letter  to  Dr. 
Price,*  of  Hackney,  and  took  an  early  occasion  to  proceed  to 
that  place,  to  hear  this  celebrated  philosopher  preach.  The 
building  and  audience  were  plain,  but  respectable.  After  the 
congregation  had  withdrawn,  the  Doctor  approached,  with  great 

*Dr.  Price  was  eminent  as  a  divine,  and  writer  upon  the  subjects  of  finance 
and  politics.  He  was  a  zealous  and  eloquent  advocate  of  civil  liberty.  He  was 
enthusiastically  regarded  in  America  as  a  champion  of  her  rights.  His  works 
bearing  upon  the  American  question  had  an  important  and  decided  influence. 
They  were  entitled,  "  Observations  on  Civil  Liberty  and  the  Justice  of  the  War 
with  America,  1776," — ''Additional  Observations,  1777," — "  The  Importance  of  the 
American  Revolution,  and  the  means  of  making  it  useful  to  the  World."  It  is  said 
that  Dr.  Price  was  freely  consulted  by  Mr.  Pitt  in  instituting  his  financial 
schemes.  Dr.  Price  ardently  espoused  the  cause  of  the  French  Revolution,  and 
publicly  avowed  his  exultation  in  its  triumph.  His  sermon  on  this  occasion  is 
said  to  have  produced  Mr  Burke's  "Reflections,"  in  which  he  was  assailed  with 
much  acrimony  and  violence.  I  still  possess  the  former  work,  which  he  presented 
me  on  that  occasion. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  149 

politeness,  and  conducted  us  into  his  private  room,  behind  the 
pulpit,  and  unbent  himself,  on  various  subjects,  in  a  kind  and 
social  manner.  My  friend  delicately  alluded  to  his  great  repu- 
tation as  a  philosopher  and  financier,  and  to  the  obligation 
America  owed  his  pen,  and  the  effect*  of  his  influence  in  her 
cause.  He  replied,  "however  he  might  be  esteemed  among 
men,  he  had  lived  long  enough  to  know  that  he  knew 
nothing." 


150  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Royal  Family — Child,  the  Banker — Irish  Giant — Anecdote — English  Tray- 
eliing — Country — Oxford  — Woodstock — Stratford  on  Avon — Shaks- 
peare — Birmingham — Tory  Relatives — Peter  Oliver — Dr.  Priestly — 
Mr.  Watt — Letter  of  Dr.  Franklin — Anecdote — Letters  from  John 
Adams— Dr.  Moyes— Sister  of  Garrick — Litchfield — Road  to  Liverpool 
— Alarm — Impressment — Liverpool — Warrington — Country  Frolic — 
Manchester — Worsley  Mills  —  Subterranean  Navigation  —  Rockdale 
Church — Tempest — Beautiful  Scenery — Halifax. 

I  OCCUPIED  the  succeeding  week  in  exploring  the  spectacles 
of  London.  I  naade  an  excursion  to  Richmond,  where  I  walked 
in  the  train  of  the  Royal  family,  and  saw  the  King  for  the  first 
time.  I  went  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Twickenham,  and  made  a 
visit  to  the  lovely  *Richmond  Hill.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  mag- 
nificent villa  of  Child,  the  banker,  whose  only  daughter  recently 
eloped  with  a  dissolute  scion  of  the  nobility.  Child  was  worth 
an  immense  estate,  one  half  of  which,  it  is  said,  he  had  squan- 
dered on  this  princely  edifice  and  its  appendages.  It  was  said  to 
contain  seventy-five  apartments,  the  architecture  of  each  of 
which  is  peculiar  to  some  distinct  nation,  and  that,  at  a  vast 
expense,  he  procured  from  the  different  countries  their  appro- 
priate furniture.  As  if  to  mark  the  reprobation  of  Heaven 
upon  this  absurd  prostitution  of  wealth,  which,  worthily  direct- 
ed, would  have  carried  blessings  to  thousands,  within  two  days 
after  he  received  the  keys  of  this  earthly  palace  from  the  hands 
of  the  builder.  Child  was  himself  consigned  to  the  silent  tomb, 
his  only  offspring  in  the  arms  of  a  bankrupt  debauchee. 

Near  St.  James'  Park  I  observed  a  sign,  "  The  Irish  Giant  to 
be  seen  here."  I  was  alone,  and  had  heard  nothing  of  this  per- 
sonage, but,  impelled  by  curiosity,  I  was  induced  to  pay  my 
fee  and  enter.  I  was  alone  in  a  room  with  a  monster  in  hu- 
man form.  He  was  sitting  upon  a  chair  as  high  as  an  ordinary 
table.  As  I  entered,  he  arose  like  a  cloud ;  as  he  appeared 
intoxicated  and  ferocious,  I  involuntarily  retreated  towards  the 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKAKAH  WATSON.  .  151 


door.  His  height  was  eight  feet  and  two  inches ;  and  when  I 
again  ventured  to  approach  him,  I  found  my  head  (my  height 
being  about  five  feet  eight  inches),  reached  but  little  above 
his  hip  bone.  The  name  of  this  monster  was  Burns.  I  after- 
ward learned  that  he  had  sold  his  body  to  an  association  of 
surgeons,  for  five  hundred  guineas. 

Having  ascertained  that  the  King  would  acknowledge  our 
National  Independence  at  the  opening  of  Padiament,  early  in 
December,  I  determined  to  remain  in  England  to  witness  the 
interesting  and  glorious  event,  and  in  the  interval  to  occupy 
myself  in  attaining  information  and  extending  my  views  of  men 
and  things  in  that  attractive  country.  In  pursuance  of  this 
purpose,  1  hired,  in  connection  with  a  friend,  a  post-chaise,  and 
left  London  October  6th,  1782,  on  a  contemplated  tour  into 
some  of  the  most  important  sections  of  England.  I  proposed 
to  visit  their  manufacturing  districts,  and  to  examine  their 
agriculture,  and  the  general  improvements  in  roads  and  canals. 

The  day  before  leaving  London,  I  dined  at  the  "  Cock " 
CofFee-House,  near  the  Royal  Exchange.  Leaning  over  the 
piazza,  I  observed  a  carriage  drive  up  with  four  fine  horses, 
and  servants  in  rich  livery.  I  observed  to  an  English  gentle- 
man with  whom  I  was  standing,  "  It  seems  we  are  to  have 
some  nobleman  with  us  to-day."  He  laughed,  and  replied, 
"  That  nobleman  is  our  landlord ;  having  made  an  immense 
fortune  in  this  house,  he  bought  a  large  estate  in  the  vie  in  t/ 
but  after  a  year's  trial  of  indolence,  he  returned  to  his  old  pursuit, 
necessary  to  him  from  the  habits  of  twenty  years.  He  comes 
in  every  day,  in  this  style,  and  returns  to  his  estate  in  the  even- 
ing." I  took  my  seat  in  a  dining-box,  and  the  landlord  soon 
appeared  with  a  white  apron  tied  up  to  his  chin.  I  cried  out, 
rather  more  audibly  than  usual,  "Waiter;"  he  promptly  gave 
the  "Coming,  sir!"  and  ran  up  to  me  with  all  humility.  Such 
is  the  supreme  force  of  habit. 

The  stranger  is  delighted  in  England  by  their  noble  and 
fleet  horses,  comfortable  carriages,  excellent  roads,  sumptuous 
taverns,  devoted  landlords  and  landladies,  and  neat  and  civil 
post-boys,  with  their  jockey  caps.  The  postillions  in  France,  I 
should  remark,  are  often  rude  and  brutal.     If  a  man  has  his 


152  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

pockets  well-lined  with  guineas,  no  country  equals  England  in 
the  pleasures  and  facilities  af  travelling. 

I  left  London,  throwing  myself  upon  the  tide  of  circumstan- 
ces, without  any  definite  plan  of  movement;  but  governed  by 
a  desire  of  making  a  comparative  view  of  my  own  country  in 
its  infancy,  with  the  institutions  and  usages  of  the  old  and 
rival  nations  of  France  and  England.  In  the  two  former  I  had 
already  extensively  travelled. 

The  afternoon  was  fine,  and  for  the  first  time  I  found  myself 
in  a  light  and  elegant  post-chaise,  bounding  over  the  spacious 
gravelled  turnpike  to  Brentford.  Instead  of  heavy  boots 
hooped  with  iron,  and  enormous  spurs — heavy  post-chaises, 
with  shafts  and  ox-wheels — three  horses,  heavy  and  clumsy? 
abreast — and  paved  roads — as  in  France,  I  found  in  England 
handsome,  fine-limbed  horses,  as  fleet  as  the  wind ;  light  post- 
chaises,  in  form  resembling  chariots ;  the  post-boys  trim  and 
neat,  polite  and  civil;  and  roads  well-gravelled. 

We  passed  Maiden-head  at  full  speed,  where  a  fine  stone 
bridge  crosses  the  Thames,  from  which  is  commanded  a  bril- 
liant view  of  meadows  and  valleys  richly  cultivated,  spreading 
far  and  wide,  with  the  placid  river  winding  its  peaceful  course 
towards  the  capital  we  had  left.  The  hills  descend  on  each 
side  gradually  towards  the  plain,  and  are  embellished  with 
splendid  seats  and  villas.  Maiden-head  is  an  animated  place, 
full  of  fine  houses ;  it  being  one  of  the  great  avenues  towards 
the  metropolis,  and  is  all  in  commotion. 

The  little  village  of  Bray,  destined  to  immortality  through 
its  vicar,  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 

At  dawn  the  next  morning  we  were  rattling  through  the 
streets  of  Henly,  on  our  way  to  Oxford,  and  in  the  evening 
descended  at  Portugal  house,  the  elegant  residence  of  my 
friend,  Mr.  Green,  in  Birmingham  ;  having  passed  during  the 
day  through  the  counties  of  Oxfordshire,  Buckingham,  and 
Warwickshire.  The  country  is  generally  level  or  undulating, 
and  in  an  admirable  state  of  cultivation.  The  peasantry  have 
ruddy  and  healthy  countenances. 
We  passed  a  turnpike-gate  in  every  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  with  an 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSOK.  153 

average  charge  of  fifty  cents  each.  All  the  other  disbursements 
of  the  road  were  proportionably  extravagant,  and  were  at  least 
double  those  of  France. 

The  expense  of  living  in  England  is  exorbitant.  A  gentle- 
man of  fortune  assured  me,  that  he  moved  with  his  carriage  and 
family  to  the  south  of  France,  and  lived  for  five  hundred  gui- 
neas annually,  in  a  style  that  would  have  cost  him,  in  England, 
two  thousand. 

Malt  liquor  is  the  universal  beverage  of  the  country,  and  in 
consequence,  I  believe  I  have  seen  more  portly  men  in  England 
in  one  day,  than  I  met  in  three  years  in  France. 

Descending  from  an  elevated  country  to  low  grounds,  we 
crossed  the  Magdalen  bridge,  six  hundred  feet  long,  and  imme- 
diately entered  Oxford,  the  celebrated  seat  of  learning.  He.re 
I  could  only  devote  the  cursory  examination  of  a  few  hours 
to  objects  that  demand  the  close  attention  of  days.  The  streets 
are  spacious  and  clean,  and  the  place  healthy. 

Oxford  is  highly  interesting  for  its  twenty  colleges,  and  numer- 
ous students  and  professors.  There  is  nothing  marked  or  en- 
gaging in  the  architecture  of  these  colleges,  it  being  antiquated 
and  inelegant.  They  are  richly  endowed,  and  contain  exten- 
sive and  valuable  libraries. 

The  surrounding  grounds  are  spacious  and  ornate,  embel- 
lished by  extensive  walks,  groves  and  gardens.  The  whole 
number  of  students  and  officers  was  estimated  at  three  thousand. 
Three  or  four  bridges  cross  the  Cherwel,  which  glides  by  the 
town,  and  falls  into  the  Thames.  In  an  adjacent  meadow  we 
discovered  the  ruins  of  a  nunnery,  an  interesting  relic  of  by- 
gone ages. 

We  made  a  short  stay  at  Woodstock,  sufficient  to  enable  us 
to  run  over  the  splendid  palace  of  Blenheim,  erected  by  the 
nation  to  commemorate  the  victory  of  Marlborough. 

We  entered  Stratford-upon-Avon,  after  crossing  a  large 
stone- arch  bridge  over  the  Avon,  and  alighted  at  the  White 
Lion  Inn,  near  the  house  in  which  Shakspeare  was  born.  The 
sign  at  this  Inn  is  a  painting  of  the  immortal  bard,  with  the 
lines  of  his  brother  bard — 


154 


"  Here  sweetest  Shakspeare,  fancy's  child, 
Warbled  his  native  wood-notes  wild." 

Stimulated  by  an  ardent  and  deeply  excited  enthusiasm,  I 
abandoned  my  friend  at  the  Inn,  and  hastily  ran  to  contemplate 
the  object  of  my  anxious  inquiries — a  little,  old  and  dilapidated 
dwelling — the  birth-place  of  Shakspeare.  There  I  saw  a  de- 
crepit old  woman,  who  pronounced  herself  the  only  surviving 
descendant  of  the  illustrious  poet.  She  pointed  out  to  me  the 
remnant  of  an  antiquated  chair,  which  he  had  occupied  ;  it  is 
cherished  as  an^interesting  memorial.  A  considerable  propor- 
tion of  it  had  been  cut  off  by  visitors,  in  the  course  of  several 
generations,  and  is  often  seen  wrought  into  rings  and  bracelets, 
worn  by  ladies  in  memory  of  their  bard. 

From  the  house  I  proceeded  to  the  parish  church,  to  view 
the  grave  and  monument  of  Shakspeare.  The  monument  was 
erected  by  his  wife,  and  a  bust  of  him  is  placed  against  the 
wall.  Opposite  to  this,  in  the  centre  of  the  chancel,  is  a  white 
marble  slab,  embedded  in  the  paved  floor,  upon  which  is  in- 
scribed the  following  lines,  written  by  himself — 

"  Good  friend,  for  Jesus'  sake  forbear 
To  move  the  dust  that  resteth  here  ; 
Blest  be  the  man  that  spares  these  stones, 
And  cursed  be  he  who  moves  these  bones." 

Either  the  reverence  that  attached  to  the  poet's  name,  or  the 
dread  of  his  malediction,  has  exempted  his  remains  from  the 
desecration  too  common  to  the  tombs  in  English  church-yards. 
Opposite  the  grave  of  Shakspeare,  on  the  outside  of  the 
church,  is  a  large  charnel-house,  with  a  door  opening  from  the 
charnel  into  it.  In  accordance  with  ancient  usage,  when  a 
new  corpse  is  to  be  interred  in  the  body  of  the  church,  the  old 
and  decaying  bones  exhumed  in  preparing  the  fresh  grave  are 
removed  and  thrown  into  a  promiscuous  pile,  in  the  charnel' 
house,  constituting  an  unhonored  and  forgotten  wreck  of  poor 
mortality.     How  solemn  and  repulsive  the  contemplation  ! 

Shakspeare,  doubtless,  from  childhood,  had  watched  the 
operation  of  this  system,  and  had  felt  his  sensitive  mind  agitated 


OK,  MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  165 

and  revolted  in  witnessing  it.  Hence  arose  the  foregoing 
frightful  denunciation. 

Stratford  is  an  incorporated  city.  The  Avon  washes  it,  and 
falls  into  the  Severn  at  Tewkesbury. 

We  proceeded  with  rapid  speed  from  this  place  to  Birming- 
ham, where  I  became  delightfully  domesticated  in  the  family 
of  my  fritindMr.  Green,  brother-in-law  to  theEail  of  Ferrers. 
On  my  arrival  in  Birmingham,  I  was  surprised  to  learn  that 
several  of  my  Tory  connections,  exiles  from  America,  were  re- 
sidents in  the  city  ;  among  the  number  was  Chief  Justice  Oli- 
ver, of  conspicuous  distinction,  in  the  early  stages  of  the 
Revolution  ;  and  also  a  son  of  the  notorious  Governor  Hutch- 
inson. 

Whilst  walking  with  Judge  Oliver,  in  the  streets  of  Birming- 
ham, he  pointed  out  to  me  three  gentlemen  walking  together, 
with  the  remark,  that  they  were  amongst  the  most  eminent 
philosophers  of  Europe. 

They  were  Doctor  Priestly,  Mr.  Watt,  the  inventor  of  the 
steam-engine,  which  had  recently  excited  so  much  interest,  and 
Doctor  Moyes,  of  Scotland,  who  was  totally  blind  ;  but  who 
was  then  engaged  in  giving  a  course  of  philosophical 
lectures.  I  was  introduced  to  them  by  the  Judge,  and  after- 
wards frequently  visited  Doctor  Priestly,*  (to  whom  1  had  a 
letter  from  Dr.  Franklin,)  at  his  residence,  about  a  mile  from 
the  city. 

Doctor  Priestly  was  a  thin  man,  with  a  sharp  nose  and  face, 
and  wore  a  full,  bushy  wig.  He  exhibited  to  me  his  extensive 
electrical  apparatus,  wbich  occupied  a  room  ;  and  his  labora- 
tory, which  filled  another  apartment.     No  man  has  effected 

'*  This  eminent  theologian  and  accomplished  philosopher  was  of  low  origin, 
and  descended  from  Calvinistic  parents.  Dr.  Priestly  passed  through  various 
stages  of  belief,  some  eccentric  and  peculiar,  from  Calvinism  to  Unitarian  doc- 
trines ;  but  it  is  asserted,  he  was  a  uniform  opponent  of  infiJelity.  He  was 
highly  distinguished  as  a  man  of  science,  in  all  its  avenues  ;  and  eminent  as  a 
metaphysician.  The  known  affinity  of  his  feelings  with  the  French  Revolution, 
excited  the  outrage  of  a  mob  at  Birmingham,  which  destroyed  his  house,  and 
consumed  with  it  his  library,  manuscripts,  and  philosophical  apparatus.  In  1794 
he  emigrated  to  America,  and  died  in  comparative  obscurity  in  February,  1805. 


156  MEN   ANI>  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

more  interesting  developments  in  science.  He  showed  me 
also  his  extensive  library,  but  he  himself  was  a  library,  a  living 
ency.clopedia.  He  was  esteemed,  I  believe,  throughout  Europe, 
as  one  of  ihe  most  distinguished  and  learned  men  of  the  age.  He 
regularly  officiates  in  a  plain  church,  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city, 
his  tenets  being  Socinian. 

I  often  met  Mr.  Watt  at  Doctor  Priestly's,  who  was  his 
brother-in-law,  and  was  said  to  aid  him  in  his  steam  investiga- 
tions. Mr.  Watt  was  entirely  absorbed  in  his  steam-engine 
projects.  He  informed  me  that  he  had  erected  several  in  the 
tin  mines  of  Cornwall,  at  the  expense  of  the  proprietors,  and  that 
he  received  one  half  of  the  savings  produced  by  his  machines, 
compared  with  the  former  mode  of  working  the  mines.  He 
assured  me  that  he  already  received  from  this  source  a  revenue 
of  five  hundred  pounds  sterling  per  annum.  He  was  also  con- 
cerned in  the  extensive  works  at  Soho,  near  the  city,  where 
he  had  introduced  his  steam-engines,  with  great  utility. 
Here  they  worked  by  ingenious  mechanical  contrivances  in- 
vented by  Mr.  Watt,  in  gold  and  silver,  and  a  variety  of  compo- 
sitions. Their  plate  work  is  an  admirable  imitation  of  pure 
silver,  and  their  ornamental  work  was  much  admired  all  over 
Europe.  Previous  to  our  Revolution  these  extensive  works 
employed  about  twelve  hundred  operatives,  but  the  number  was 
at  that  time  reduced  about  one  half. 

Birmingham  may  be  pronounced  one  of  the  most  active  and 
busy  cities  of  the  world.  Its  manufactures  were  chiefly  hard- 
ware, and  scattered  over  the  marts  of  the  whole  earth.  Its 
business  had  been  greatly  enhanced  by  the  various  canals 
which  concentrate  here,  and  communicate  with  Liverpool  and 
Manchester,  upon  one  side,  and  Bristol  and  Oxford  upon  the 
other.  These  canals  promoted  the  prosperity  of  the  city,  as 
well  by  rendering  the  coal  region  easily  accessible  to  them,  as 
by  affording  cheap  transportation  for  the  raw  material  they  re- 
quire for  their  own  manufactured  fabrics. 

The  city  was  enveloped  night  and  day  in  a  cloud  of  coat 
smoke,  pleasant  to  the  citizens,  but  exceedingly  offensive  to 
the  olfactories  of  a  stranger.    It  contained  about  forty  thousand 


157 


inhabitants,  being  handsomely  built  upon  a  side  hill,  nearly  in 
the  form  of  a  crescent.  Mr.  Watt  informed  me  that  the  Bir- 
mingham canal,  which  unites  with  the  StrafFordshire  and  Wor- 
cestershire canal,  about  two  miles  from  this  city,  is  carried 
down  the  hill  by  twenty  locks,  which  cost  five  hundred  pounds 
sterling  each,  making  in  that  distance  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
six  feet  fall,  or  about  seven  feet  lift,  to  each  lock.  The  boats 
which  ply  on  it  are  seventy  feet  long,  and  very  narrow.  The 
stock  divided  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  per  cent,  annually. 
This  canal  was  commenced  twelve  years  before,  under  the 
charge  of  the  famous  Briniey,  the  self-created  engineer,  and 
has  enriched  the  whole  region. 

On  one  occasion  of  my  visiting  Doctor  Priestly,  he  read  to 
me  a  letter  from  Doctor  Franklin,  describing  the  terrific  bat- 
tle between  Eodney  and  De  Grasse's  fleets,  in  deadly  conflict 
for  several  hours.  It  detailed  the  manoeuvres  of  the  former, 
said  to  have  been  suggested  by  the  theoretical  plan  of  a  mer- 
chant, and  then  first  put  in  practice,  by  which  the  enemy's  line 
being  broken  in  the  centre,  one  half  of  it  was  enclosed  in  a 
double  line  of  hostile  ships,  whilst  the  remainder  was  compelled 
to  remain  in  the  excrutiating  agony  of  passive  spectators  of  the 
dreadful  work  of  destruction  and  death.  Franklin  imagined 
himself  and  Priestly  suspended  in  a  cloud,  hovering  over  the 
scene,  and  witnessing  its  dreadful  progress. 

The  first  Sunday  I  spent  in  Birmingham  I  accompanied 
J^  dge  Oliver  to  church,  and  when  the  clergyman  in  an  audi- 
ble voice  pronounced,  "  Oh  Lord  !  turn  the  hearts  of  our  re- 
bellious subjects  in  America,"  the  Judge  gave  me  a  smart  jog 
on  the  elbow,  as  if  to  make  a  personal  application  of  the  prayer. 
The  progress  of  events  enabled  me  to  return  the  hint  l)y  a  "re- 
tort courteous."  I  was  again  at  Birmingham  after  the  formal 
recognition  of  our  Independence,  and  occupied  with  Judge 
Oliver  a  seat  in  the  same  church.  After  the  service,  I  whis- 
pered to  him,  "  Well,  Sir,  I  w.ited  in  vain,  this  time,  for  a  jog 
on  the  elbow." 

The  Tory  refugees  were  vindictive  and  bitter  in  their  hos- 
tility to  the  men  and  events  of  the  Kevolution.     Judge  Oliver 


158  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

imputed  much  in  its  earlier  movements  to  the  influence  and 
untiring  energy  of  John  Adams.  He  pronounced  him  one  of 
the  most  dangerous  men  to  British  domination  in  America. 
This  conversation  I  partly  communicated  to  Mr.  Adams  after- 
wards in  Paris. 

In  a  letter,  December  16th,  1790,  Mr.  Adams  remarks  tome 
in  allusion  to  this  topic  :-• — 

"  I  remember  that  you  once  told  me  at  the  Hague, '  that  the  Ameri- 
can tories  and  refugees  in  England^  dreaded  me  more  than  any^  or  all 
other  men  in  the  world.''  These  expressions,  although  very  strong, 
are  of  an  ambiguous  construction.  There  were  some  forged  letters 
printed  in  my  name  in  the  London  newspapers,  breathing  ven- 
geance against  that  description  of  people,  which  was  never  in  my 
feeling?:,  nor  consistent  with  my  principles.  From  these  coun- 
terfeits, they  might  be  led  to  expect  from  me  vindictive  measures 
against  them,  which  I  never  dreamed  of.  The  refugees  might  enter- 
tain hopes,  however  weak  and  visionary,  of  again  seeing  the  domina- 
tion of  Britain  re-established  in  America,  and  think  me  their  most 
determined  opponent.  In  such  a  guess  as  this,  they  would  not  have 
been  much  out.  I  will  thank  you  to  explain  the  matter,  as  you 
know  their  sentiments." 

In  a  letter  I  received  from  him  in  July,  1812,  he  again  al- 
ludes to  the  subject  thus  : — 

"  You  once  gave  me  some  dark  and  broken  hints  of  a  conversation 
you  had  with  Judge  Peter  Oliver,  in  England,  which  appeared  to  me 
to  have  entered  deeply  into  the  causes  of  our  Revolution. 

"1  know  of  no  reason,  why,  at  this  time  of  day,  that  conversation 
or  any  other  information  relative  to  that  event,  should  be  concealed 
or  withheld  from  the  public.  But  if  you  will  communicate  it  to  me, 
though  it  should  be  in  confidence,  I  should  esteem  it  as  a  favor. 

"  /  have  long  expected  and  earnestly  wished  to  see  a  Tory  history  of 
the  Revolution^  its  causes,  rise,  prognss  and  completion.  That  such  a 
thing  will  appear,  I  have  7io  doubt,  and  should  be  very  happy  to  see 

r 

Again,  in  November,  1817,  he  refers  to  the  subject,  after  re- 
ceiving some  explanations  from  me.     He  says  : — 

"When  Chief  Justice  Oliver  said  to  you,  in  1782,  that  he  dread- 
ed rne  more  than  any  man  in  America,  he  did  not  explain  his  reasons. 
He  knew  that  I  luas  the  first  projector  oj"  the  impeachment  of  the  Judges, 
and  he  believed  that  measure  to  be  the  critical  event  on  which  the 
revolution  turned.'''' 

No  man  familiar  with  the  Revolution,  could  hesitate  to  ac- 


OR,  Memoirs  of  elkanah  watson.  159 

cord  to  Mr.  Adams  one  of  the  highest  points  of  eminence 
among  the  patriots  who  animated  the  spirit,  and  who  guided 
the  measures  of  the  Revolution. 

Mr.  Green,  the  night  previous  to  my  departure  from  Bir- 
mingham, gave  a  supper  to  the  Americans  in  the  city.  There 
was  about  the  board  twenty-five  besides  myself,  and  I  was  the 
only  avowed  rebel  in  the  group.  It  was  agreed  that  they 
might  talk  tory,  whilst  I  should  be  permitted  to  talk  rebel ;  and 
thus  being  unconstrained,  we  passed  an  amusing  evening. 

On  the  point  of  resuming  my  excursion  to  the  north,  J  sought 
from  my  friends  information  as  to  my  route,  and  the  objects  of 
my  journey;  and  it  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  upon  these  subjects, 
and  in  respect  to  the  road,  country,  manufactures,  agriculture, 
&;c.,  I  received  the  most  accurate  and  detailed  information  from 
Dr.  Moyes,  the  blind  philosopher,  who  never  saw  any  of  them. 
He  was  a  man  of  very  interesting  scientific  and  literary  attain- 
ments, endowed  with  fine  native  talent,  which  had  been  ma- 
tured and  invigorated  by  thought  and  reflection.  Mechanical 
employment  was  the  favorite  occupation  of  his  youth.  At  an 
early  age  he  made  himself  familiar  with  the  use  of  edge  tools  ; 
and  although  totally  blind,  succeeded  in  constructing  with  his 
own  hands,  many  nice  and  complicated  pieces  of  machinery. 
The  fund  of  intelligence  he  collected,  and  stored  up  in  his  me- 
mory, was  truly  wonderful.  From  these  resources,  always  at 
command,  he  would  pour  forth  in  conversation  the  richest 
strains  of  wisdom  and  information. 

He  was  not  merely  a  distinguished  lecturer  upon  chemistry, 
but  his  mind  had  garnered  up  rich  treasures  in  the  various  de- 
partments of  learning. 

He  possessed,  it  was  said,  an  acute  and  general  knowledge  of 
most  of  the  profounder  sciences  embraced  in  the  Newtonian 
philosophy.  The  fact,  that  from  infancy,  he  had  been  deprived 
of  the  use  of  his  eyes,  made  him  a  prodigy  of  wisdom  and  at- 
tainments. He  afforded  a  wonderful  evidence  of  the  triumph  of 
genius  and  energy  over  the  highest  and  most  diflicult  of  human 
obstacles. 

Mr.  Green  accompanied  me  as  far  as  Litchfield,  and  in  the 


160  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

last  exercise  of  his  kindness,  introduced  me  to  a  sister  of  Gar- 
rick,  with  whom  I  passed  an  evening.  Her  eyes  were  full,  pe- 
netrating, and  jet  black,  like  her  brother's. 

Litchfield  is  a  venerable  and  well-built  city,  with  streets  clean, 
spacious,  and  well  paved.  The  cathedral  is  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  old  Gothic  churches  in  England.  I  always  con- 
templated these  monuments  of  other  ages,  with  awe  and  deep 
veneration. 

I  spent  an  hour  in  a  sad  sojourn  in  the  church-yard,  viewing 
the  cathedral  and  the  tombs  around.  The  structure  still  re- 
mains in  grandeur  and  beauty,  whilst  the  hands  that  created  it 
have  long  since  crumbled  into  dust.  I  noticed  an  almost  in- 
finite  number  of  rooks  or  ravens  croaking  around  the  towers, 
and  sailing  through  the  arches  of  this  ancient  pile. 

Travelling  in  one  day  from  Litchfield  to  Liverpool,  and 
making  a  journey  fraught  with  continued  interest  and  excite- 
ment, we  crossed  the  Trent  twice,  and  often  passed  over,  and 
once  under  the  Duke  of  Bridgewater's  canal,  riding  along  its 
margin  during  most  of  the  day.  We  galloped  over  a  most  in- 
teresting country.  The  scenery  was  enchanting,  and  constantly 
presented  new  features  and  changes. 

Near  Newcastle,  we  were  enraptured  by  a  most  gorgeous 
and  lovely  view  from  an  eminence,  formed  of  a  widely  spread 
plain,  diversified  with  fields  and  groves,  and  glittering  streams, 
studded  by  villages  and  elegant  villas,  and  animated  by  a  thou- 
sand herds,  lowing  along  its  meads.  During  this  day  I  noticed 
numerous  country  seats,  of  various  peculiarities  of  architecture, 
and  embellished  by  all  the  appliances  of  wealth  and  refinement. 
We  traversed  some  bad  roads,  through  artificial  forests,  plant- 
ed by  the  hand  of  man  ;  and  over  hills  and  dales,  and  along 
beautiful  water-courses. 

At  Warrington  I  left  my  carriage,  and  took  a  seat  in  the 
stage  coach  for  Liverpool.  I  was  alone  with  La  Fleur,  and 
placing  my  loaded  pistols  under  the  cushion,  was  soon  sound 
asleep,  with  folded  arms,  pitching  and  reeling  in  sympathy  with 
th3  n  otion  of  the  carriage.  Suddenly  I  was  awoke  by  a  check 
to  the  full  speed  of  our  horses — rubbed  my  eyes — heard  a  con- 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  161 

fused  noise  of  voices,  and  looking  out,  saw  by  the  light  of  the  full 
moon,  that  we  were  surrounded  by  a  band  of  armed  men,  their 
suspended  hangers  flashing  in  the  moonlight.  I  heard  a  voice 
exclaim, ''  we  will  hang  him,  by  G—d."  At  the  same  instant  the 
carriage  door  was  thrust  rudely  open,  and  in  an  authoritive 
tone,  I  was  ordered  to  "  come  out."  I  was  in  dismay  and 
astonishment  at  finding  myself  encompassed,  as  I  supposed,  by 
a  numerous  body  of  armed  foot-pads  ;  and  the  thought  flashed 
through  my  mind,  that  by  some  unlucky  event,  the  approach 
of  a  rebel  might  have  been  intimated  to  an  excited  populace, 
who  designed  to  avenge  the  death  of  poor  Andre. 

I  had  no  time  to  hesitate,  but  dropping  a  valuable  watch  in 
the  carriage,  seized  and  cocked  my  pistols,  and  ordered  them 
to  stand  off*.  They  hesitated,  and  then  demanded  "  if  I  was 
not  the  commanding  oflicer  of  the  press-gang."  I  assured 
them  I  was  not  the  man  they  sought,  and  to  satisfy  them  I 
sprung  out,  and  to  my  no  small  joy  was  permitted  to  pass. 
They  were  sailors  who  had  been  hunted  down  by  the  blood- 
hounds of  the  government,  until  driven  to  desperation,  and  were 
in  pursuit  of  an  officer  of  the  press-gang,  to  avenge  themselves 
for  the  cruelties  to  which  they  had  been  subjected  by  him. 
He  had  been  pointed  out  to  me  that  evening  at  Warring- 
ton, and  thus  narrowly  escaped  the  hands  of  these  self-con- 
stituted avengers. 

The  barbarous  and  demoralizing  system  of  impressment 
would  disgrace  the  most  despotic  government  on  the  earth ; 
and  yet  in  this  country  of  boasted  liberty  and  laws,  it  is  toler- 
ated by  the  government,  and  sanctioned  by  estabhshed  cus- 
tom. 

When  the  peril  of  this  scene  was  over,  I  trembled  like  an 
aspen  leaf;  but,  happily,  when  the  hazard  was  imminent,  I 
retamed  full  control  of  my  nerves.  The  excitement  of  danger, 
I  have  often  noticed,  will  sustain  us  in  the  crisis. 

Late  in  the  evening,  we  penetrated  into  the  heart  of  the 
great  commercial  emporium,  Liverpool,  drove  into  the  court- 
yard of  the  Golden  Lion,  and  were  conducted,  without  cere- 
mony, into  a  dirty  little  chamber  in  the  attic,  which  produced 

11 


162  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  J 

the  shrewd  remark  from  honest  La  Fleur,  in  French,  "Monsieur, 
if  we  rattled  around  the  court-yard  in  our  own  carriage,  and 
made  a  thundering  noise,  comme  en  France,  Par  Dieu!  nous 
aurions  vn  beau  chambre  en  'primier  etage."  I  devoted  the  next 
day  to  the  examination  of  this  interesting  city  and  its  vicinity. 

Liverpool  is  situated  upon  the  east  side  of  the  Mersey,  and 
lies  low.  The  adjacent  country  is  flat  and  sandy.  In  1699 
it  was  only  constituted  into  a  parish,  and  in  1710  the  first 
dock  was  constructed.  A  little  more  than  a  century  ago,  it 
was  an  insignificant  fishing  borough,  giving  a  precarious  occu- 
pation  to  about  one  hundred  sailors.  It  now  contained  nearly 
40,000  inhabitants,  and  was  rapidly  advancing  in  wealth  and  pop- 
ulation. Elegant  new  houses  were  erecting  upon  large  and 
capacious  streets.  From  the  summit  of  the  Exchange,  I  had 
a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  environs.  The  merchants,  I  noticed^ 
transacted  much  of  their  business  in  the  street  fronting  the 
Exchange. 

In  spring-tides,  it  is  stated,  the  water  rises  thirty  feet;  in 
consequence,  wet  and  dry  docks  are  much  required  for  the 
facilities  of  commerce.  Previous  to  our  Revolution,  the  com- 
merce of  Liverpool  with  America  was  very  extensive  and 
important.  Canals  connecting  it  with  various  points  in  the 
interior  are  already  constructed,  and  others  are  projected.  On 
this  point  they  are  deeply  indebted  to  the  enterprise  of  the 
Duke  of  Bridge  water,  and  the  genius  of  Brinley.*     Like   all 

*James  Brinley  was  born  in  1716,  and  was  early  distinguished  by  his  remark- 
able mechanical  inventions.  He  served  an  apprenticeship  to  a  millwright.  His 
wonderful  and  intuitive  genius  soon  elevated  him  into  fame  and  consequence,  as 
the  inventor  of  many  ingenious  and  important  mechanical  improvements  and 
labor-saving  machinery.  His  powerful  mind  was  at  length  turned  to  internal 
navigation.  He  was  advised  with  by  the  Duke  of  Bridgevvater,  on  the  subject 
of  his  contemplated  scheme  of  running  a  canal  from  Worsley  to  Manchester. 
Brinley  declared  'the  project  practicable,  and  was  employed  to  perform  it.  At 
Barton  he  proposed  to  carry  it  over  the  Irwell  by  an  aqueduct,  at  an  elevation  of 
thirty-nine  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  project  was  ridiculed  as  wild 
and  chimerical  ;  yet,  supported  by  his  noble  patron,  he  began  and  accomplished 
the  design.  This  was  the  first  work  attempted  in  England  with  navigable  subter- 
ranean tunnels  and  elevated  aqueducts.     To  preserve  the  level  of  the  water,  he 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON".  163 

Other  projectors,  they  were  esteemed  wild  and  visionary  in 
their  contemplations;  but  the  result  has  proved  the  wisdom 
arid  sagacity  of  their  plans.  The  authors  of  projects  designed 
to  advance  and  meliorate  the  condition  of  man,  are  too  often 
sneered  at  and  derided  by  the  multitude,  who  bow  down  and 
shout  hosannas  to  a  long  purse,  whilst  they  consign  native 
merit  over  to  the  gratitude  of  posterity. 

I  disposed  of  part  of  the  day  in  an  interesting  examination 
of  the  manufactures  and  commercial  resources  of  Liverpool. 
The  extensive  salt-works,  which  afforded  the  article  of  com- 
merce so  universally  known  as  Liverpool  salt,  was  an  object  of 
much  interest,  and  a  source  of  great  wealth  to  the  place. 
The  water  is  pumped  by  machinery  and  evaporated  in  large 
pans,  and,  in  som.e  instances,  the  salt  is  raised  from  its  bed  by 
the  same  process. 

I  returned  to  Warrington,  whicli  presents  a  very  uninterest- 
ing appearance,  with  antiquated  buildings  and  narrow  streets. 
I  here  resumed  my  carriage  and  proceeded  towards  Manches- 
ter, through  an  interesting  country.  Allured  by  the  animating 
tones  of  a  violin,  we  stopped  at  a  farm-house,  and  found  a 
country  frolic  in  full  tide,  lads  and  lasses  dancing  with  all 
their  might  and  hearts  their  four-handed  reels.  I  soon  mingled 
with  them,  drank  their  slops,  warmed  myself,  and  took  my 
leave.  Divested  of  their  broad  pronunciation,  I  could  easily 
have  imagined  myself  at  a  frolic  in  the  bosom  of  New  England ; 
yet  one  Yankee,  in  the  same  sphere,  possesses  more  mother  wit 
than  half  this  circle.     I  beheve  this  remark  may  be  made  with 

carried  his  canal  over  rivers,  and  many  deep  and  wide  valleys.  Brinlcy  was  sub- 
sequently engaged  in  many  other  equally  important  and  extensive  operations 
His  whole  energies  were  absorbed  in  his  professional  pursuits.  He  had  no  relish 
for  the  ordinary  relaxations  of  life  ;  he  was  once  induced  to  visit  a  play  in  London, 
but  declared  nothing  should  persuade  him  to  witness  another,  as  it  disturbed  his 
mind,  and  incapacitated  him,  several  days,  for  business.  When  any  unusual 
difficulty  occurred  to  him,  in  the  execution  of  his  works,  he  would  retire  to  bed, 
and  sometimes  remain  there  three  days  till  he  had  surmounted  it.  This  extraor- 
dinary man  was  almost  mean  in  his  appearance,  and  uncultivated  in  his  man- 
ners, and  could  scarcely  read  or  write,  and  yet  was  one  of  the  most  consummate 
civil  engineers  that  has  ever  lived. 


164 


justice  in  reference  to  a  large  mass  of  the  rural  population  of 
England. 

Manchester  is  very  conspicuous  as  a  manufacturing  city. 
The  manufacture  of  cotton,  in  every  variety  of  fabric,  forms  its 
most  important  business.  The  introduction  of  machinery  has 
wonderfully  facihtated  the  processes  of  this  work.  They  per- 
form, by  this  means,  almost  the  entire  labor,  to  the  exclusion 
of  thousands  of  famishing  poor,  who  are  thus  deprived  of  their 
ordinary  occupation. 

Manchester  derives  immense  benefits  from  the  canal  of  the 
Duke  of  Bridgewater  and  the  Leeds  canal,  which  proceeds  on- 
ward to  Liverpool.  I  hope,  most  ardently,  that  I  may  live  to 
witness  in  America  the  application  of  machinery  to  these  pur- 
poses, and  the  introduction  of  canals,  with  all  their  infinite 
advantages.  Manchester  is  an  opulent  and  elegant  city,  with 
fine  streets  and  extensive  squares ;  it  is  one  of  the  largest 
inland  cities  of  Great  Britain,  containing  about  30,000  inhab- 
itants, and  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Irwell  and  Irk. 
The  city  is  ancient,  but  much  of  it  is  of  modern  construction. 

I  went  to  Worsley  Mills,  a  distance  of  seven  miles  from 
Manchester,  to  view  the  stupendous  works  of  the  Duke  of 
Bridgewater,  accomplished  by  the  surpassing  genius  of  Brin- 
ley.  The  execution  of  these  projects  was  attended  with  vast 
expense  and  hazard,  but  secured  to  their  projectors  an  immense 
estate.  Not  content  with  skimming  along  the  surface,  with 
traversing  valleys,  and  crossing  rivers  by  their  artificial  navi- 
gation, they  decided  to  plunge  into  the  very  bowels  of  a  moun- 
tain, in  pursuit  of  coal.  A  vast  reservoir  is  constructed  at  the 
foot  of  the.  mountain,  from  which  a  subterranean  tunnel 
extends  nearly  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  to  the  coal  pits  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountain ;  at  this  point  the  tunnel  divides  and 
shoots  off  into  two  branches,  of  about  three  hundred  yards 
each,  in  the  midst  of  an  immense  mass  of  coal.  The  tunnel  is 
about  seven  and  a  half  feet  high,  including  three  feet  of  water, 
and  six  and  a  half  feet  wide.  The  boats  which  navigate  it 
are  about  fifty  feet  long,  four  and  a  half  broad,  and  two  feet 
deep.     The  tunnel  is  occasionally  arched  with  brick  or  stone. 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELK  AN  AH  WATSON.  165 

The  circuit  going  and  returning  by  the  tunnel  and  branches 
is  about  three  miles  of  dark  and  subterranean  navigation- 
Having  procured  a  ticket,  we  proceeded  v^^ith  lighted  torches, 
towed  along  by  the  railway.  The  sensation  that  one  feels  is 
indescribable,  in  approaching  through  this  gloomy  avenue 
the  dark  colliers,  who  were  just  discernible  by  the  red  glare  of 
their  lights,  in  the  region  of  blackness  and  night.  The  coal  is 
brought  from  the  pits  in  low  wagons,  propelled  on  a  platform  to 
the  sides  of  the  boats,  which  hold  about  eight  tons,  and  several 
being  connected,  are  drawn  on  the  canals  to  Manchester  and 
elsewhere.  Shafts  or  funnels  are  opened  at  intervals,  from  the 
top  of  the  mountain,  a  depth  of  from  thirty  to  forty  yards, 
for  the  purpose  of  ventilation.  These  works  form  an  aston- 
ishing exhibition  of  the  ultimate  and  certain  success  of  enter- 
prise  and  genius. 

Leaving  Manchester,  we  crossed  over  a  mountainous  road 
to  Halifax,  the  first  bad  road  I  had  seen  in  England.  Our 
progress  was  tedious  and  uncomfortable.  The  church  at 
Rochdale  (which,  situated  in  a  valley,  is  encircled  by  moun- 
tains,) stands  on  an  eminence  that  is  approached  from  the 
town  by  a  long  flight  of  stairs.  We  ascended  it,  and  had  an 
extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  with  the  mountains 
already  (October  17th)  capped  with  snow.  The  air  was  keen 
and  wintry.  In  ascending  the  fearful  mountain  at  Blackstone- 
edge,  we  were  assailed,  when  half-way  up,  by  such  a  pitiless 
storm  of  hail  and  wind,  that  my  apprehensions  were  seriously 
excited  for  the  safety  of  the  post-boy,  carriage  and  horses.  I 
descended  from  the  post-chaise  for  greater  security,  but  could 
hardly  sustain  myself  amid  the  raging  of  the  tempest.  The 
atmosphere  was  wild  and  squally,  and  whilst  this  circumstance 
in  some  measure  obstructed  the  prospect,  it  added  infinitely  to 
the  grandeur  and  novelty  of  this  wild  mountain  scene.  A 
snow  storm  next  attacked  us,  whilst  still  ascending,  and  ia  a 
few  minutes,  the  surrounding  hills  and  mountains  held  up  their 
heads,  as  if  rejoicing  in  their  white  mantles.  In  truth  it  was, 
in  all  its  phases,  a  regular  transatlantic  snow-storm. 

We  continued  on  to  Halifax,  eight  miles,  travelling  over  a 


166 


dreary  mountain  tract,  and  as  night  approached,  houses  began 
to  appear  in  closer  contact,  and  drawing  nearer  the  city,  the 
lights  from  the  villages  in  the  valleys,  and  along  the  hill-sides, 
with  the  solitary  rays  streaming  from  the  numerous  farm- 
houses, gave  animation  and  beauty  to  the  scenery.  The 
mountains  we  had  traversed,  were  filled  with  vast  bodies  of 
coal,  and  bright  streamlets  were  constantly  bounding  down  their 
declivities. 

Near  almost  every  house  I  noticed  tenters,  on  wliich  were 
stretched  shaloons,  kerseys,  or  cloths.  The  manufacture  of 
these  fabrics,  was  the  occupation  of  the  spare  hands  of  the  cot- 
tages. 

The  loveliness  and  repose  of  the  scenes  exhibited  to  us  in 
descending  the  hills  towards  Halifax,  were  indescribably  im- 
pressive. At  their  base,  the  river  Calder  gently  glides,  divid- 
ing them  from  another  parallel  chain  of  hills  upon  the  opposite 
side.  As  soon  as  the  moon  had  disengaged  herself  from  the 
mass  of  clouds  which  still  hovered  about  the  mountains,  and 
had  obscured  her  during  the  evening,  she  emerged  in  great 
beauty  and  brilliancy,  tipping  the  surrounding  clouds  with  a 
silver  edging,  and  then  poured  her  light  upon  us — through  the 
trees — upon  the  hill-tops  mantled  in  snow,  and  gently  touched 
by  her  tremulous  beams  the  little  river,  in  the  valley  below\ 

Immediately  upon  leaving  this  picturesque  scene,  we  de- 
scended a  long  declivity,  and  entered  Halifax,  which  is  situat- 
ed in  a  valley,  and  environed  by  a  circle  of  abrupt  hills.  Hali- 
fax was  a  considerable  town,  of  about  six  thousand  inhabitants, 
irregularly  built,  and  offered  nothing  remarkable  to  the  observa- 
tion of  the  traveller,  except  a  Clothiers'  Hall,  which  includes 
five  hundred  rooms.  To  this  mart,  all  the  adjacent  country 
bring,  on  every  Saturday,  all  their  cloths  for  sale.  The  streets 
and  tops  of  the  houses  were  covered  with  snow,  and  presented 
a  wintry  aspect  like  an  American  December. 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  167 


CHAPTER    XV, 

Establishment — Leeds — Clothiers'  Hall — Pohtical  Sentiments — Sheffield 
—  Matloek  —  Lead  Mine  —  Singular  Petrifaction — Derby — Broom 
Grove — Worcester — Tewksbury — Bristol — Bath — Death  of  Colonel 
Laurens — Devizes — Rottenborough — Earl  of  Effingham — English  No- 
bility— Edmund  Burke — Prince  of  Wales — Destiny  of  England — 
Opera — Portrait  by  Copely — House  of  Lords — King's  Speech  Recog- 
nizing American  Independence — Reflections — House  of  Commons — 
Interview  with  Lord  Shelburne — Windsor — Royal  Family — Return  to 
Paris — Treaty — Anecdote — Letter  of  Monsieur  Demmartin. 

The  road  continued  rugged  and  mountainous,  until  we  ap- 
proached Leeds.  We  journeyed  very  pleasantly  along  the 
b^nks  of  the  river  Aire,  near  which  we  saw  the  ruins  of  an  an- 
cient monastery.  Happily  for  England,  popish  institutions  no 
longer  preponderate  upon  her  soil,  but  in  their  stead,  however, 
the  people  of  England  are  ground  to  the  earth  by  the  intolera- 
ble abuses  of  a  political  national  religion.  To  this  establish- 
ment every  religious  sect  is  made  tributary.  The  poor  farmer, 
no  matter  to  what  mode  or  form  of  worship  his  conscience 
may  direct  him,  is  compelled  to  yield  one  tenth  of  his  hard  earn- 
ings, to  sustain  a  host  of  bishops  and  priests,  a  class  of  whom 
riot  in  wealth  and  luxuriance. 

Leeds  was  a  populous  commercial  and  manufacturing  city, 
situated  on  the  Aire.  Its  inland  navigation,  by  the  river  on 
the  east,  and  the  canal  on  the  west,  which  connects  the  two 
seas,  confers  upon  it  great  advantages.  There  was  a  cloth  fair 
in  this  city  twice  in  each  week.  I  attended  one  of  them  in 
their  spacious  Clothiers'  Hall.  As  soon  as  the  Hall  bell  began 
to  ring,  each  man  shouldered  his  piece  of  cloth,  and  took  his 
position  in  a  very  large  room,  at  the  side  of  tables  running 
parallel  through  the  entire  length.  When  the  bell  ceased,  the  mer- 
chants entered  without  noise  or  confusion,  and  passed  through 


168  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION  ; 

the  room,  inspecting  the  cloths.  They  whispered  their  price  in 
the  clothier's  ear,  and  thus,  with  privacy  and  dispatch,  and 
without  a  knowledge  of  each  other's  business,  a  traffic  amount- 
ing to  from  £15,000  to  £30,000  was  accompHshed  in  the  period 
of  an  hour. 

I  spent  the  evening  in  a  large  and  elegant  circle,  at  the 
mansion  of  a  gentleman  to  whom  I  brought  letters.  1  perceiv- 
ed to  my  astonishment,  that  the  group  were  warmly  and 
openly  American  in  their  feelings,  whether  selected  in  compli- 
ment to  me  I  am  ignorant,  but  I  really  felt  myself  as  if  in  the 
midst  of  my  rebel  friends  in  America.  1  noticed  during 
my  progress  in  England,  that  the  popular  feeling  upon  the  sub- 
ject of  American  affairs,  appeared  to  run  in  a  sympathetic  vein. 
In  one  locality,  I  remarked  the  prevailing  sentiment  to  be  deeply 
and  inveterately  hostile,  whilst  in  another  our  cause  was  almost 
universally  cherished,  and  advocated  with  the  most  decided, 
cordial,  kind  feeling;  but  our  enemies,  and  even  the  Tories, 
treated  us  with  much  more  respect  after  the  recent  and  decisive 
events.     In  general  I  avoided  politics. 

I  determined,  October  22d,  from  the  general  aspect  of  the 
w^eather,  to  abandon  my  projected  tour  into  Scotland,  and 
to  turn  my  face  again  towards  sunny  France. 

In  approaching  Sheffield,  I  was  agreeably  surprised  by  a 
sudden  view  bursting  on  my  vision,  of  this  large  manufacturing 
city,  which  rests  upon  the  side  of  an  opposite  hill,  and  appear- 
ed to  great  advantage,  although  half  immerged  in  coal  dust 
and  smoke.  We  descended  a  long  declivity,  and  crossing  a 
bridge  over  the  Dan,  entered  the  city  by  a  steep  ascent. 

I  here  found  a  precious  packet  of  letters  from  friends  in  Eu- 
rope and  America,  affi3rding  the  choicest  solace  to  a  way-worn 
and  solitary  sojourner.  In  the  evening  I  attended  the  play, 
with  a  party  to  whom  I  had  been  introduced  by  my  letters. 
The  audience  was  thin ;  the  actors  bad  ;  and  in  truth,  this 
people  appeared  too  much  absorbed  by  their  manufactures,  to 
encourage  or  participate  in  amusements. 

After  devoting  two  days  to  examining  the  interesting  manu- 
factories and  hydraulic  w^orks  of  Sheffield,  we  left  that  city, 


OR,  MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  169 

and  travelled  by  moonlight  to  Matlock.  Sheffield  is  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Dan  and  Sheaf,  and  contained 
about  30,000  inhabitants.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  com- 
mands a  high  rent ;  the  farmers  make  extensive  use  of  an  ex- 
cellent fertilizer,  formed  by  bones  and  horn  shavings,  pulver- 
ized by  grinding. 

The  road  passed  along  the  borders  of  the  little  river  Der- 
went,  amid  a  range  of  craggy  mountains.  The  post-boy  gal- 
loped oflf  at  a  rapid  rate  upon  the  edge  of  precipices,  through 
narrow  defiles,  and  beneath  rocks  impending  over  us.  This 
rugged  avenue,  combined  with  the  murmurings  of  the  river  be- 
low, among  the  rocks  and  rapids,  and  the  effect  of  the  moon- 
light glimmering  upon  the  various  points  of  the  scene,  produced 
one  of  the  most  romantic  and  curious  associations  I  have  ever 
witnessed.  We  drew  up  in  front  of  a  long  building,  planted  in 
the  midst  of  the  mountains.  I  soon  introduced  myself  into  the 
room  where  was  assembled  the  sadrehcsofa  brilliant  sum- 
mer company,  which  had  resorted  to  this  celebrated  bathing- 
place,  and  had  been  dispersed  by  the  frosts  of  autumn.  I  spent 
one  day,  perched  upon  this  mountain  rock.  The  scenery 
was  grand  and  imposing,  the  view  ranging  over  several 
counties. 

At  the  foot  of  one  of  these  mountains,  I  entered  a  lead  mine, 
penetrating  with  my  guide,  who  bore  a  torch,  one  thousand 
yards,  which  brought  us  to  a  point  directly  beneath  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  towering  five  hundred  feet  over  our  heads.  Here 
the  miners  were  at  work,  wearing  out  a  wretched  existence. 
The  atmosphere  was  damp  and  confined,  although  ventilated 
by  shafts. 

The  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  Matlock  abound  in  a  great 
variety  of  the  most  curious  petrifactions,  which  are  converted 
into  many  highly  polished  and  beautiful  ornaments.  Singular 
stones  are  also  often  found  in  this  region,  which,  when  polished, 
exhibit  neat  and  striking  landscapes.  I  prevailed  upon  the  head 
workman  to  accompany  me  in  search  of  some  of  them,  and  was 
fortunate  enough  to  discover  one,  that  apparently  afforded,  after 
being  polished,  a  beautiful  rural  scene,  of  about  six  by  twelve 


170  MEN"  ANI>  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

inches  in  size,  presenting  a  view  of  a  river,  with  three  small 
islands  covered  with  trees.  In  another  view  was  displayed  a 
variegated  scene  of  hills,  trees  in  rich  foliage,  and  clouds.  This 
strange  vagary  of  nature  was  seen  by  Doctors  Priestly,  Frank- 
lin, and  a  vast  many  other  persons,  who  all  pronounced  it  a 
most  wonderful  natural  curiosity.  I  brought  it  with  me  to 
America,  and  presented  it  to  one  of  our  literary  institutions. 

In  the  evening  I  enjoyed  a  refreshing  bath.  The  water  is 
of  the  temperature  and  mild  softness  of  new  milk.  The  bath  is 
lined  with  polished  white  marble. 

In  journeying  towards  Derby,  we  wound  up  a  long  hill,  to  a 
great  height,  and  then  gradually  descended  into  a  level  coun- 
try, highly  improved,  laid  off  in  regular  lots,  here  and  there  oc- 
cupied by  clusters  of  trees,  or  devoted  to  gardens,  but  generally 
covered  with  cattle  and  sheep  grazing,  and  checkering  and  ani- 
miting  the  landscape.  After  traversing  this  extensive  and 
luxurious  plain,  we  entered  the  city  of  Derby. 

I  devoted  some  time  to  exploring  this  interesting  city,  and 
examining,  in  the  suburbs,  a  silk  manufactory,  on  an  expanded 
scale.  It  employed  two  hundred  persons,  who  tend  one  hundred 
thousand  movements,  all  propelled  by  a  single  water-wheel, 
which  revolves  three  times  in  a  minute,  and  at  each  revolution 
works  upwards  of  seventy  thousand  yards  of  silk,  ready  for  the 
w^arp. 

There  was  also,  in  this  city,  a  large  porcelain  manufactory, 
which  made  a  very  admirable  imitation  of  China  porcelain  ; 
the  blue  and  gold  coloring  was  executed  with  exquisite  beauty 
and  perfection. 

On  my  return  to  Birmingham,  I  again  enjoyed  the  courte- 
ous and  refined  hospitalities  of  my  friend,  Mr.  Green.  During 
my  sojourn,  I  visited  the  seat  at  Hagley,  of  many  of  the  extra- 
ordinary exploits  of  the  younger  Littleton. 

There  he  made  his  remarkable  exit  from  life,  under  circum- 
stances which  are  the  constant  theme  of  conversation.  We 
also  made  a  trip  to  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Ferrers,  a  relation  of 
the  lady  of  my  friend.  Mr.  Green  assured  me,  that  at  this 
house  he  introduced  the  unfortunate  Major  Andre  to  Miss 


ELKANAH   WATi^OK.  171 

Seward,  afterwards  so  well  known  for  her  genius,  her  connec- 
tion with  Andre,  and  hei:  sorrows.  Whilst  in  Birmingham  I 
enjoyed  much  intercourse  with  Doctor  Priestly  and  Mr.  Watt, 
and  felt  my  mind  elevating  and  expanding  under  its  influence. 

I  left  Birmingham  on  the  10th  of  November  for  London,  by 
way  of  Bristol  and  Bath,  and  passed  through  a  charming  agri- 
cultural region,  and  many  cities  and  towns  fraught  with  inter- 
resting  associations  of  the  past,  and  filled  with  objects  claiming 
the  attention  and  examination  of  a  stranger. 

Broomgrove  was  a  large  town,  in  which  the  linen  trade  was 
extensively  conducted. 

We  next  entered  the  fine  city  of  Worcester  ;  it  is  neat,  well 
built,  admirably  paved,  and  situated  in  a  valley  on  the  Severn 
river.  Many  of  its  public  and  private  edifices  are  very  elegant 
structures.  Its  manufactures  were  chiefly  gloves,  carpets,  cloths, 
and  porcelain  of  an  inferior  quality. 

Riding  fifteen  miles  farther  along  the  banks  of  the  Severn, 
we  reached  Tewksbury.  Travelling  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
amid  spacious  orchards  of  apples  and  pears,  I  could  scarcely 
divest  my  mind  of  the  idea,  that  I  was  journeying  over  the 
most  highly  cultivated  districts  of  New-England.  At  this 
place  the  river  Avon  enters  the  Severn. 

Gloucester  is  another  important  town,  through  which  we  rap- 
idly passed,  and  reached  Bristol  at  about  ten  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  utterly  exhausted  with  fatigue,  after  riding  eighty-nine 
miles  over,  in  many  parts,  a  rough  road,  and  in  an  open,  pound- 
ing stage-coach.  I  devoted  the  forenoon  to  the  delivery  of  my 
letters,  and  an  examination  of  the  city. 

Bristol  is  built  chiefly  in  a  vale,  surrounded  by  pleasant  emi- 
nences ;  it  stands  upon  a  narrow,  but  very  deep  river,  that  ad- 
mits to  the  bridge  vessels  of  one  thousand  tons.  The  quay  was 
a  mile  in  length  and  very  spacious  ;  the  cranes  in  use  upon  it 
were  very  ingenious,  and  well  calculated  to  economize  labor  in 
loading  and  unloading  vessels.  The  dry  and  floating  docks 
were  also  great  conveniences,  one  of  the  latter,  two  miles  below 
the  city,  would  contain  one  hundred  and  fifty  ships.  Bristol  had 
about  sixty  thousand  population,  and  embraced  twenty  sugar- 


172  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

houses,  and  numerous  manufactories,  which  gave  employment 
to  all  the  surplus  hands  not  engaged  in  commerce.  In  the 
American  maritime  cities,  a  large  proportion  of  the  inhabitants 
eat  the   bread  of  idleness,  from  the  absence  of  manufactories. 

Early  the  ensuing  morning,  I  proceeded  on  foot  to  Bran- 
don hill,  near  the  celebrated  hot-wells  bathing-place.  At  this 
point  I  had  a  glorious  view  of  the  city  and  adjacent  country — 
hills  and  towers — Bath — the  Welsh  mountains,  and  the  Avon, 
I  descended  from  the  hill  to  the  hot-wells,  a  fashionable  sum- 
mer resort.  Music  was  here  discoursed  every  morning.  The 
water  is  warm,  and  very  efficacious  in  nervous  and  scorbutic 
diseases.  Ascending  from  the  bath,  another  lofty  pinnacle,  I 
discovered  ships  at  anchor  in  King's  roads — others  sailing  ap- 
parently at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  had  a  wide  distant  view  of 
South  Wales.  Between  Bristol  and  Bath,  the  country  which 
stretches  along  the  borders  of  the  Avon  is  delightful. 

I  approached  Bath  in  the  evening,  riding  along  the  banks  of 
the  Avon.  The  lights  glowing  in  front  of  the  splendid  crescent, 
presented  an  animated  and  enlivening  scene,  for  some  miles 
before  I  entered  the  city.  I  remained  several  days,  filled  with 
delight  and  fascination,  in  the  gay  and  dissipated  circles  of 
Bath.  It  is  large,  magnificent,  and  almost  entirely  sustained 
by  the  fashionable  and  opulent,  who  resort  here,  allured  by  its 
celebrated  waters.  The  city  is  principally  built  upon  the  de- 
clivity of  a  hill,  gradually  descending  towards  the  river  Avon. 
Many  of  the  public  and  private  edifices  were  truly  elegant  and 
imposing.  Public  and  private  baths  abounded  in  every  part  of 
the  town.  At  the  King's  bath,  the  buildings  are  constructed 
on  a  scale  of  gorgeous  magnificence  and  splendor.  An  obelisk, 
seventy  feet  high,  rises  from  the  centre  of  the  bath,  having  re- 
cesses and  seats  at  the  base,  to  accommodate  those  who  are 
boiling  out  their  various  disorders.  Strange  to  relate,  after 
performing  this  expurgatory  office,  the  same  water  is  pumped 
up  and  drank  by  the  diseased,  in  the  room  which  overlooks  the 
bath.  This  bath  is  sixty-five  by  forty  feet  wide,  and  sur- 
rounded by  apartments  containing  small  rooms,  with  steps  con- 
ducting into  the  water.     In  these  rooms  persons  of  both  sexes 


OR,   MEMOIRS  or  ELKANAH  WATSON.  173 


were  equipped  in  proper  dresses,  and  indiscriminately  descend 
into  the  bath,  and  walk  about  in  the  water  up  to  their  necks. 
The  Bath  Guide  has  it : — 

**  'Twas  a  glorious  sight  to  behold  the  fair  sex, 

All  wading,  with  gentlemen,  up  to  their  necks,  &:c." 

I  looked  down  from  the  pump-room  into  the  bath.  The  heat 
of  the  water  produced  a  vapor,  which,  gathering  over  the  heads 
of  the  bathers,  partially  hid  them  from  view  ;  but  an  occasion- 
al pufFof  wind  would  present  to  me  a  most  singular  and  ludi- 
crous spectacle  ;  old  and  young,  matrons  and  maidens,  beaus 
and  priests,  all  promiscuously  wading  and  splashing  in  the  bath, 
a  band  of  music  the  while  playing  some  solemn  march  or  ex- 
hilarating dance. 

At  my  lodgings  I  found  my  highly  esteemed  and  distinguish- 
ed friend,  Henry  Laurens,  whom  I  had  not  been  able  to  rejoin 
since  our  separation  at  Nantes.  I  was  at  his  own  apartments 
the  day  after,  when  he  received  a  packet  from  London,  an- 
nouncing the  death  of  his  gallant  son,  Colonel  Laurens,  who 
had  been  killed  in  a  skirmish  near  Charleston,  South  Carolina. 
The  intelligence  burst  upon  him  with  the  force  and  sudden- 
ness of  a  thunderbolt. 

At  first  his  faculties  seemed  to  be  crushed  and  paralysed ; 
his  philosophy  forsook  him,  and  he  abandoned  himself  to  the 
agonies  of  a  bereaved  father.  His  anguish  no  human  means 
could  mitigate,  and  1  could  only  yield  him  my  tears  and  my 
sympathies. 

After  a  few  days,  he  became  more  calm  and  submissive,  and 
proceeded  to  London,  where  I  engaged  to  meet  him. 

Leaving  Bath,  I  returned  to  London.  We  passed  Devizes, 
a  large  town,  in  the  market-place  of  which,  the  magistracy  have 
caused  to  be  erected  a  monument,  commemorative  of  a  striking 
interposition  of  Divine  judgment. 

The  fact  perpetuated  by  the  inscription  is  this  : — A  woman 
having  purchased  some  commodities  in  the  market,  upon  pay- 
ment being  demanded,  an  altercation  ensued,  when  she  utter- 
ed the  imprecation,  "  May  God  strike  me  dead,  if  1  have  not 
paid  it."     She  fell  down,  and  immediately  expired,  and  in  the 


174  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION; 

clenched  hand,  which  she  had  impiously  raised  to  Heaven,  to 
attest  hei'  perjury,  was  found  the  money  in  controversy. 

I  afterwards  knew  in  America  a  gentleman  of  great  respec- 
tabihty,  a  native  of  Devizes,  who  assured  me  he  was  an  eye- 
witness of  this  memorable  judgment  and  remarkable  coinci- 
dence. Let  sceptics  deny,  and  philosophers  deride  ;  facts  hke 
this  bear  fearful  and  powerful  admonition  of  the  interposition 
of  an  Omniscient  God  in  the  affairs  of  man. 

We  next  reached  Marlboro'.  This  town  consisted  of  one 
broad  street,  containing  about  five  hundred  inhabitants,  and 
yet  sent  two  members  to  Parliament,  whilst  many  of  their 
large  modern  cities  were  deprived  of  all  representation.  The 
rotten  Borough  system  of  England  is  one  of  the  most  corrupt 
and  abhorrent   features  of  their  political  institutions. 

From  Marlboro'  I  proceeded  through  Hungerford,  the  spa- 
cious town  of  Reading,  and  Maidenhead  to  London,  where  I 
was  rejoiced  to  find  Mr.  Laurens,  surrounded  by  kind  and 
sympathising  friends.  In  this  circle  was  the  celebrated 
Edmund  Burke,  to  whom  I  was  introduced  by  Mr.  Laurens. 
Mr.  Burke  treated  me  with  much  polite  and  cordial  attention, 
and  invited  me  to  attend  the  approaching  debates  in  Parliament. 
He  had  a  noble  and  dignified  countenance  ;  his  language,  even 
in  common  conversation,  flowed  in  a  copious  stream  of  pure  and 
elegant  diction.  As  an  American  protege  of  Mr.  Laurens,  I 
found  myself  moving  at  once  in  the  high  circles  of  the 
Metropolis.  Dining  on  one  occasion  at  Mr.  Vaughans,  the 
father  of  the  secret  negotiator  at  Paris,  I  met  a  brilHant  circle^ 
and  among  them  the  Earl  of  Effingham,  at  whose  side  I  was 
seated  at  table.  The  Earl  was  emphatically  a  friend  of  America, 
and  his  name  had  resounded  through  our  continent,  for  the 
early  and  decisive  course  he  adopted  in  the  House  of  Lords  in 
our  vindication  and  support.  Congress,  in  gratitude,  named  a 
frigate  the  "Effingham." 

In  moving  among  the  nobility  of  England,  I  have  been 
astonished  to  discover  so  much  ignorance  and  vulgarity  in  the 
same  class  that  exhibit  so  much  that  is  exalted  and  ennobling 
in  the  character  of  man.     With  a  few  admirable  exceptions, 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOX.  I75 

the  distinction  is  vast  and  obvious  between  those  Noblemen  of 
nature,  who,  by  the  force  of  native  energy  and  greatness,  have 
attained  that  eminence,  and  those  creatures  of  accident,  who 
are  Noblemen  by  inheritance. 

I  had  the  gratification  of  breakfasting  in  a  familiar  manner 
with  Mr.  Burke,  the  distinguished  author,  eloquent  orator,  and 
accomplished  statesman.  He  was,  even  in  the  ordinary  inter- 
course of  life,  a  most  extraordinary  man.  I  felt  my  own  insig- 
nificance in  his  presence,  but  as  he  conversed  freely,  I  was 
rather  a  listener  than  speaker,  and  relieved  from  the  necessity 
of  revealing  my  powers,  in  contrast  with  this  intellectual  giant. 
In  my  variegated  life,  1  have  often  been  brought  into  intimate 
intercourse  with  great  and  accomplished  men,  and  have  always 
found  myself  at  ease  and  self-possessed;  yet  the  glare  of  this 
transcendent  luminary  humbled  and  embarrassed  me.  With 
Dr.  Franklin,  always  kmd  and  familiar,  I  could  hold  converse 
as  with  a  venerated  father ;  but  Burke  seemed  a  being  of 
another  sphere.  He  had  ever  been  a  devoted  friend  to  America, 
and  in  co-operation  with  Fox,  Sheridan  and  Conway,  has  been 
the  primary  cause  of  wresting  from  the  reluctant  King  a 
decision  to  recognize  our  Independence. 

The  Earl  of  Ferrers  presented  me  with  a  card  of  admission 
to  the  House  of  Lords,  on  the  occasion  of  the  delivery  of  the 
King's  speech.  At  the  Opera  I  met  the  Prince  of  "Wales,  the 
heir-apparent  to  the  throne.  He  is  elegant  and  dignified  in 
his  appearance,  but  debauched  and  profligate  in  his  private 
life.  During  the  interludes,  I  walked  in  the  promenade 
near  his  person,  contemplating  the  features  of  one  who  would 
probably  soon  wield  a  mighty  influence  over  this  great  nation, 
for  evil  or  for  good.  What  destiny  awaits  this  powerful  nation  ? 
was  a  question  that  often  occurred  to  my  mind.  All  mighty 
empires  have  their  epochs.  Savage  in  their  origin — civilized- 
potent — warlike — luxurious,  and  finally  sinking  into  decay  and 
imbecility.  Is  such  to  be  the  fate  of  Britain  ?— and  was  this 
man  to  be  an  agent  in  accelerating  her  downfall  ? 

The  Opera,  although  formed  of  foreign  material,  and  pufl^ed 
by  fashion,  was  not  congenial  to  the  habits  or  genius  of  the  Eng- 


176  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

lish.  The  stage  dances  of  the  English,  and  indeed  all  their 
dances,  (although  a  mania  pervaded  every  city  and  village  in 
England  to  possess  an  elegant  ball-room,)  hold  no  comparison 
with  the  gay  and  lively  movements  of  the  graceful  French. 
To  me  an  opera  is  a  most  insipid  jargon  of  nonsense.  The 
music  and  singing  are  unintelligible  and  an  unnatural  affectation, 
a  jumble  of  musical  sounds,  grating  to  my  savage  American 
ears. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  in  England,  having  won  at  the  insur. 
ance  office  one  hundred  guineas,  on  the  event  of  Lord  Howe's 
relieving  Gibraltar,  and  dining  the  same  day  with  Copley,  the 
distinguished  painter,  who  was  a  Bostonian  by  birth,  1  deter- 
mined to  devote  the  sum  to  a  splendid  portrait  of  myself. 
The  painting  was  finished  in  most  admirable  style,  except  the 
back-ground,  which  Copley  and  myself  designed  to  represent  a 
ship,  bearing  to  America  the  intelligence  of  the  acknowledgment 
of  Independence,  with  a  sun  just  rising  upon  the  stripes  of  the 
union,  streaming  from  her  gaff.  All  was  complete  save  the 
flag,  which  Copley  did  not  esteem  prudent  to  hoist  under 
present  circumstances,  as  his  gallery  is  a  constant  resort  of 
the  royal  family  and  the  nobiUty. 

I  dined  with  the  artist  on  the  glorious  5th  of  December, 
1782,  after  listening  with  him  to  the  speech  of  the  King, 
formally  receiving  and  recognizing  the  United  States  of 
America  into  the  rank  of  nations.  Previous  to  dining,  and 
immediately  after  our  return  from  the  House  of  Lords,  he 
invited  me  into  his  studio,  and  there  with  a  bold  hand,  a  mas- 
ter's touch,  and  I  believe  an  American  heart,  attached  to  the 
ship  the  stars  and  stripes.  This  was,  I  imagine,  the  first 
American  flag  hoisted  in  old  England."^ 

*I  brought  this  splendid  painting  with  me  to  America,  and  it  is  still  in  my 
possession.  It  is  pronounced  by  artists,  second  to  no  painting  in  America,  and 
has,  at  their  earnest  request,  been  deposited  in  Academies  and  schools  of  paint- 
ing, as  a  study  for  young  artists.  Copley  assured  me  that  it  would  not,  in  his 
own  language — "  ripen  in  forty  years" — and  now,  after  an  interval  of  more  than 
half  a  century,  its  colors  appear  clearer  and  more  brilliant  than  on  the  day  they 
left  the  painter's  pallet,  (1821.) 


.X5R,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKA.NAH  WATSON.  l77 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  5th  December,  1782,  in  conformity 
with  previous  arrangements,  I  was  conducted  by  the  Earl  of 
Ferrers  to  the  very  entrance  of  the  House  of  Lords.  At  the 
door  he  whispered,  "  Get  as  near  the  throne  as  you  can — fear 
nothing."  I  did  so,  and  found  myself  exactly  in  front  of  it, 
elbow  to  elbow  with  the  celebrated  Admiral  Lord  Howe.  The 
Lords  were  promiscuously  standing  as  I  entered.  It  was  a 
dark  and  foggy  day,  and  the  windows  being  elevated  and  con- 
structed in  the  antiquated  style,  with  leaden  bars  to  contain 
the  diamond  cut  panes  of  glass,  augmented  the  gloom.  The 
walls  were  hung  with  dark  tapestry,  representing  the  defeat 
of  the  Spanish  Armada.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  recognizing  in 
the  crowd  of  spectators,  Copley,  and  West  the  painter,  with 
some  American  ladies.  I  also  noticed  some  dejected  American 
royalists  in  the  group. 

After  waiting  nearly  two  hours,  the  approach  of  the  King 
was  announced  by  a  tremendous  roar  of  artillery.  He  entered 
by  a  small  door  on  the  left  of  the  throne,  and  immediately 
seated  himself  upon  the  Chair  of  State,  in  a  graceful  attitude, 
'with  his  right  foot  resting  upon  a  stool.  He  was  clothed  in 
royal  robes.  Apparently  agitated,  he  drew  from  his  pocket  the 
scroll  containing  his  speech.  The  Commons  were  summoned, 
and  after  the  bustle  of  their  entrance  had  subsided,  he  pro- 
ceeded to  read  his  speech. 

I  was  near  the  King,  and  watched,  with  intense  interest, 
every  tone  of  his  voice,  and  every  emotion  of  his  countenance. 
It  was  to  me  a  moment  of  thrilling  and  dignified  exultation. 
After  some  general  and  usual  remarks,  he  continued : 

"  I  lost  no  time  in  giving  the  necessary  orders  to  prohibit 
the  further  prosecution  of  offensive  war  upon  the  continent  of 
North  America.  Adopting,  as  my  inclination  will  always 
lead  me  to  do,  with  decision  and  effect,  whatever  I  collect  to 


This  magnificent  painting,  equal,  probably,  to  any  in  America,  in  style  and 
execution— becomincr,  by  age,  more  brilliant  in  its  coloring,  and  mellowed  and 
ripened  by  time,  is  now  at  the  mansion  of  Charles  M.  Watson,  Port  Kent,  Essex 
County,  N.  Y.  Copley  was  the  father  of  Lord  Lyndhurst,  Lord  Chancellor  of 
England,  and  present  head  of  the  Tory  party. — Ed. 

12 


178  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF   THE   EEVOLUTION; 

be  the  sense  of  my  Parliament  and  my  people,  I  have  pointed 
all  m);  views  and  measures,  in  Europe,  as  in  North  America, 
to  an  entire  and  cordial  reconciliation  with  the  colonies.  Find- 
ing it  indispensable  to  the  attainment  of  this  object,  I  did  not 
hesitate  to  go  to  the  full  length  of  the  powers  vested  in  me, 
and  offer  to  declare  them'' —  Here  he  paused,  and  was  in 
evident  agitation;  either  embarrassed  in  reading  his  speech,  by 
the  darkness  of  the  room,  or  affected  by  a  very  natural  emotion. 
In  a  moment  he  resumed  : — "  and  offer  to  declare  them  fi-ee 
and  independent  States.  In  thus  admitting  their  separation 
from  the  crown  of  these  kingdoms,  I  have  sacrificed  every 
consideration  of  my  own  to  the  wishes  and  opinions  of  my 
people.  I  make  it  my  humble  and  ardent  prayer  to  Almighty 
God,  that  Great  Britain  may  not  feel  the  evila  which  might 
result  from  so  great  a  dismemberment  of  the  Empire,  and  that 
America  may  be  free  from  the  calamities  which  have  formerly 
proved,  in  the  mother  country,  how  essential  monarchy  is  to 
the  enjoyment  of  constitutional  liberty.  Religion,  language 
interests  and  affection  may,  and  I  hope  will,  yet  prove  a  bond 
of  permanent  union  between  the  two  countries." 

It  is  remarked,  that  George  III.  is  celebrated  for  reading 
his  speeches  in  a  distinct,  free,  and  impressive  manner.  On  this 
occasion,  he  was  evidently  embarrassed ;  he  hesitated,  choked, 
and  executed  the  painful  duties  of  the  occasion,  v/ith  an  ill 
grace  that  does  not  belong  to  him.  I  cannot  adequately  por- 
tray my  sensations,  in  the  progress  of  this  address ;  every 
artery  beat  high,  and  swelled  with  my  proud  American  blood. 
It  was  impossible  not  to  revert  to  the  opposite  shores  of  the 
Atlantic,  and  to  review,  in  my  mind's  eye,  the  misery  and  woe 
I  had  myself  witnessed,  in  several  stages  of  the  contest,  and 
the  wide-spread  desolation,  resulting  from  the  stubbornness  of 
this  very  King,  now  so  prostrate,  but  who  had  turned  a  deaf 
ear  to  our  humble  and  importunate  petitions  for  relief.  Yet  I 
believe  that  George  III.  acted  under  what  he  felt  to  be,  the  high 
and  solemn  claims  of  constitutional  duty. 

The  great  drama  was  now  closed.  The  battle  of  Lexington 
exhibited  its  first  scene.     The  Declaration  of  Independence 


OR,   MEMOIKS    OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  179 

was  a  lofty  and  glorious  event  in  its  progress,  and  the  ratifica- 
tion of  our  Independence  by  the  King,  consummated  the 
spectacle  in  triumph  and  exultation.  This  successful  issue  of 
the  American  Revolution,  will,  in  all  probability,  infiuence 
eventually  the  destinies  'of  the  whole  human  race.  Such  had 
been  the  sentiment  and  language  of  men  of  the  profoundest 
sagacity  and  prescience,  during  and  anterior  to  the  conflict, 
in  all  appeals  to  the  people.  In  leaving  the  house,  I  jostled 
Copley  and  West,  who  I  thought  were  enjoying  the  rich 
political  repast  of  the  day,  and  noticing  the  anguish  and 
despair  depicted  on   the  long  visages  of  our  American  Tories. 

The  ensuing  afternoon,  having  a  card  of  admission  from 
Alderman  Wool,  I  attended  in  the  gallery  of  the  House  of 
Commons.  There  was  no  elaborate  debate,  but  much  acri- 
mony evinced  in  the  incidental  discussions.  Com.  Johnson 
assailed  Lord  Howe's  late  expedition  to  Gibraltar,  because  he 
had  not  gained  a  decisive  victory,  alleging  that  with  proper 
effort  he  might  have  done  so ;  when  Mr.  Townsend  defended 
him  with  zeal  and  spirit.  Capt.  Luttrell,  a  naval  officer,  then 
attacked  Fox  with  much  severity,  accusing  him  of  treating 
the  Navy,  in  some  of  his  speeches,  with  disrespect.  Fox  re- 
plied with  his  wonted  keen  and  sarcastic  style,  in  a  short  and 
rapid  speech.  Mr.  Burke  at  length  arose,  and  attacked  the 
King's  Address,  of  the  day  before,  in  a  vein  of  satire  and  ridi- 
cule;  he  said  "it  was  a  farago  of  nonsense  and  hypocrisy." 
Young  Pitt,  the  newly  created  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer, 
replied  to  Mr.  Burke,  and  handled  him  with  dignified  severity, 
imputing  to  him  buffoonery  and  levity.  Gen.  Conway  said — 
"the  recognition  of  American  Independence  was  explicit  and 
unconditional." 

When  the  House  was  about  adjourning.  Alderman  Wool 
came  to  me  in  the  gallery,  and  invited  me  to  descend  to  the 
floor  of  the  house.  On  my  entrance,  I  was  met  by  Mr.  Burke, 
who  introduced  me  as  a  messenger  of  peace,  to  Messrs.  Pitt, 
Fox,  Sheridan,  Gen.  Conway,  and  other  members,  grouped 
together  on  the  floor.  Mingling  thus  by  a  happy  concurrence 
of  events   with  the  great  luminaries  of  England,  I  felt  that  I 


180  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

was  occupying  exalted  and  privileged  ground.  It  would  be 
preposterous,  were  I  to  attempt  to  decide  as  to  the  relative 
merits  of  these  distinguished  men.  Their  acts  belong  to  history, 
and  their  high  fame  to  their  common  country  and  posterity.* 

I  made  a  visit  to  Windsor,  the  royal  residence,  situated 
twenty-one  miles  from  London.  It  will  sustain  no  compari- 
son, in  point  of  architecture  and  grandeur,  or  in  the  splendor 
of  its  palaces  and  gardens,  with  the  French  palaces  and  gardens, 
but  in  its  natural  position  infinitely  surpasses  them,  and,  indeed, 
is  unrivalled.  The  town  of  Windsor  rests  upon  the  bank  of  the 
Thames.  The  castle  is  a  venerable  fortress,  crowning  an  emi- 
nence, within  which  is  the  regal  palace,  and  two  courts,  with  a 
tower  between  them.  The  royal  apartments  command  a  view 
of  the  terrace.  The  prospect  is  most  delightful,  and  the  air  pure 
and  invigorating.  Pope  has  exhausted  his  poetic  extasies  in  de- 
scribing this  interesting  situation. 

The  road  from  London  to  Windsor  is  beautiful  and  engaging, 
passing  for  several  miles  along  the  margin  of  the  Thames.  I 
walked  upon  the  noble  terrace,  which,  covered  with  fine  gravel, 
and  always  dry,  affords  a  charming  promenade.  It  was  Sun- 
day, and  the  king  and  royal  family  were  walking  here,  with 
a  long  train  of  the  nobility,  in  a  free  and  unconstrained  man- 
ner mingling  with  the  people.  I  attended  Divine  service  at 
the  King's  Chapel,  which  is  much  inferior,  in  stylerand  compass, 
to  the  royal  chapel  at  Versailles ;  the  King  and  Princesses 
were  present. 

Circumstances  again  calling  me  to  France,  I  left  London  on 
the  I2th  December,  1782,  and  reached  Paris  on  the  15th,  late 

*I  find  among  the  documents  of  Mr.  Watson,  notes  from  Lord  Shelburne, 
addressed  to  him  both  before  and  after  the  Speech  of  the  King,  Dec.  5th.  One 
of  these,  couched  in  the  following  language  : 

"  Lord  Shelburne  presents  his  compliments  to  Mr.  Watson,  and  shall  be  glad 
to  see  him  to-morrow  morning  between  nine  and  ten. 

Shelburne  House,  Dec.  9th." 
and  has  this  endorsement,  in  Mr.  Watson's  writing  :  "  This  card  of  invitation  from 
the  Prime  Minister  of  England,  was  written  four  days  after  the  Speech  of  the 
King,  acknowledging  our  Independence.     The  object  of  the  interview  was  to  in- 
quire relative  to  commercial  intercourse  under  existing  circumstances." 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  181 

at  night.  About  noon,  on  the  ensuing  day,  I  was  awoke  by 
an  earnest  debate,  in  a  room  adjoining  mine,  and  separated 
only  by  a  folding-door,  and  was  surprised  to  learn  that  it  was 
the  English  and  American  Commissioners,  who,  having  assem- 
bled in  the  room  of  Mr.  Laurens,  were  discussing  the  subject  of 
the  Canadian  boundary.  The  next  day  I  dined  at  Mr.  Adams',  in 
company  with  the  Commissioners,  and  was  gratified  to  learn 
th'at  the  minor  points  in  controversy  would  soon  be  adjusted,  and 
that  a  definitive  treaty  of  peace  would,  at  an  early  day,  be 
signed. 

Immediately  on  my  return  I  waited  upon  Dr.  Franklin,  and 
presented  him  with  a  recent  London  paper,  containing  a  par- 
ticular and  detailed  account  of  his  death  and  funeral.  He  was 
very  much  amused,  and  assured  me  that  this  was  the  third 
instance,  since  his  residence  at  Passy,  that  the  London  papers 
had  buried  him  alive.  My  journey,  from  Paris  to  Nantes, 
occupied  three  days  and  nights,  owing  to  the  excessively  bad 
condition  of  the  roads.  At  the  dawn  of  the  second  morning, 
I  perceived  poor  La  Fleur,  reeling  and  pitching  upon  his  bidet, 
overcome  by  drowsiness.  The  bidet  is  a  small  and  active 
horse,  trained  to  canter  from  one  post-yard  to  another,  in 
advance  of  a  post-chaise,  with  a  servant,  or  '  avant  courier," 
to  announce  its  approach,  and  to  prepare  a  relay  of  horses. 
Perceiving  the  condition  of  La  Fleur,  and  actuated,  in  part,  by 
compassion,  and  to  gratify  the  whim  of  the  moment,  I  placed 
him  in  the  carriage,  and  mounting,  myself,  the  bidet,  went  off 
in  advance,  at  full  speed.  In  this  style  I  cantered  through  the 
streets  of  Angers,  into  the  yard  of  the  Post-house.  The  bidets 
are  well  known  on  the  road  they  traverse,  and  I  perceived,  as 
I  passed  through  the  streets,  that  I  attracted  more  than  the 
curiosity  ordinarily  excited  by  a  courier,  and  when  I  descend- 
ed in  the  post-yard,  the  astonishment  of  the  master  and  postil- 
lions were  but  ill-disguised.  I  could  at  times  overhear  the 
remarks  and  inquiries  advanced  in  respect  to  my  rank,  or 
rather,  that  of  the  person  whose  approach  I  was  supposed  to 
announce.  I  heard  some  assert  that  my  master  must  be  a 
Prince  of  the  blood.     A  little  barber,  at  length,  more  curious  or 


182  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  KE VOLUTION  ; 

impudent  than  the  rest,  approached,  and  inquired  in  direct 
terms,  "  What  nobleman  I  attended."  I  readily  replied,  "My 
•  Lord  Bostono."  The  news  flew  rapidly  in  all  directions,  and 
the  populace  began  to  assemble  to  see  an  American  lord.  I 
hastened  upon  the  back  of  a  fresh  bidet,  and  struck  off  in  a 
quick  gallop,  on  the  high-road  to  Nantes,  leaving  the  court- 
yard just  as  the  carriage  with  my  Lord  Boston^^  approached. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  Nantes,  among  a  mass  of  letters  from 
Europe  and  America,  I  found  the  subjoined  from  Capt.  Dem- 
martin,  an  officer  of  the  French  army,  of  great  literary  distinc- 
tion in  France,  and  who,  at  a  subsequent  period,  became  a 
General  under  Bonaparte's  dynasty,  I  introduce  this  letter 
to  illustrate  the  state  of  feeling  in  respect  to  our  Revolution, 
and  the  liberal  sentiments  which  prevailed  at  that  time  in  the 
French  army  and  throughout  the  French  nation,  which  was 
daily  exhibited  to  my  observation. 

I  supposed  at  the  time  that  Dr.  Franklin  had  instigated 
Demmartin  to  furnish  the  translation  he  speaks  of,  with  the 
purpose  of  animating  the  liberal  sentiments  diff'using  in  France, 
by  the  promulgation  of  the  events,  and  a  knowledge  of  the  prin- 
ciples of  our  Revolution.  It  was  by  these  influences,  acting 
upon  the  seed  scattered  by  the  writings  of  Voltaire,  Rousseau, 
and  others,  and  the  spirit  of  liberty  introduced  by  the  French 
army,  on  its  return  from  America,  that  the  elements  of  the 
French  Revolution  were  matured  and  quickened : 

'''Nancy,  Lorraine,  Dec.  30,  1782. 

"My  Dear  Sir: — The  hurry  of  ray  affairs,  since  my  return  to 
Lorraine,  has  hindered  me  from  making  my  best  thanks,  for  I  owe  to 
your  letter  of  civility,  the  kind  reception  of  your  excellent  Dr. 
Franklin.  I  have  been  so  happy  as  to  dine  with  him  at  Passy,  and 
hid  neither  sufficient  eyes  nor  ears  to  admire  and  listen  enough  to  that 
noble  and  learned  man,  who  has  acted  so  considerable  a  part  in  the 
revolution  of  your  country. 

"  I  consulted  his  Excellency  upon  my  design  of  translating  the 
History  of  the  Revolution  in  North  America.  He  showed  me  the 
two  first  volumes,  already  printed  in  French,  but  he  informed  me 
another  and  more  elaborate  history  was  soon  to  be  published  in 
America,  which  would  be  superior,  both  in  exactness  and  in  exhibiting 
the  order  of  events. 


'OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  183 

"As  you  know,  my  dear  sir,  that  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  em- 
f)loy  my  sword  in  the  service  of  your  country,  I  desire  to  indulge  my- 
•self  in  the  pleasure  of  giving  to  ray  own  country,  notice  of  the  great 
-events  performed  in  a  cause  so  illustrious. 

"The  names  of  your  heroes  are  known  and  famous  throughout  the 
world,  and  will  live  in  the  memory  of  posterity,  as  long  as  noble 
spirits  and  magnanimity  are  honored  by  mankind.  It  will  be  deeply 
interesting  to  exhibit  to  the  politician,  the  events  and  incidents  which 
prompted  the  revolution,  and  the  means  which  accomplished  it;  and 
to  the  miK'tary,  the  art  of  disciplining  raw  recruits,  ill  furnished  with 
arms  and  material,  and  yet  enabled,  in  a  few  months,  to  cope  with 
and  achieve  victories  over  veteran,  accomplished,  and  well-armed 
troops,  as  much  by  their  own  gallantry,  as  by  the  wisdom  of  their 
generals,  in  the  face  of  internal  factions. 

^'You  will  add  to  the  obligations  1  am  already  under,  by  sending 
me  a  copy  of  the  work  referred  to,  as  soon  as  it  shall  be  published  in 
America." 

"  Ja.  De  Demmartin. 

-'^MoNS.  Watsoit,  Nantes." 


184  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEYOLUTION  ;: 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

Nantes — Roman  Tower — Leave  Nantes — Royal  Hunt — Commercial  Dis- 
tress— Margate — Portsmouth — Isle  of  Wight — Salisbury — Old  Sarum 
— English  Election — Fox  and  Howe — Ignorance  of  America — Wild- 
man — Bees — London  and  Paris.. 

The  city  of  Nantes  is  situated  on  the  river  Loire,  about 
thirty  miles  from  its  mouth.  In  the  ancient  section  of  the 
city,  the  houses  are  four  and  five  stories  high,  each  story 
projecting  over  the  lower  as  they  ascend ;  so  that  in  narrow 
streets,  the  attics  approach  very  near,  excluding  the  sun  in  a 
great  measure,  and  rendering  their  ill-paved  streets  dark, 
muddy,  and  damp.  This  awkward  and  absurd  mode  of  build- 
ing cities  universally  prevailied  in  Europe  two  centuries  ago, 
but  is  now  entirely  exploded.  The  modern  houses  in  Nantes> 
fronting  the  river,  and  upon  the  public  squares,  are  most  splen- 
did edifices,  constructed  generally  of  white  hewn  stone.  I 
have  never  heard  the  cry  of  "  fire,"  (so  appalling  in  English 
and  American  cities,)  during  my  residence  in  France.  Indeed, 
it  would  be  no  slight  effort  of  skill,  for  an  incendiary  to 
accomplish  his  work  in  a  French  house.  The  inner  and 
outer  walls,  and  stairs,  are  formed  of  stone,  the  roofs  are 
slate  or  tile,  and  the  floors  brick,  or  formed  of  a  composition 
that  is  incombustible. 

The  internal  trade  of  Nantes  is  very  productive ;  their  do- 
mestic manufactures,  which  are  very  extensive  and  valuable, 
occupy  all  the  surplus  hands  of  the  community.  There  are 
several  convents  in  the  city,  and  also  an  Institution  where 
husbands  have  the  power  of  confining  wives  guilty  of  infidelity„ 

Near  the  venerable  Cathedral  there  stood  a  Roman  tower, 
which  the  corporation  of  the  city  found  expedient  to  demolish^, 
i  witnessed  the  first  attempts,  and  saw  it  blown  to  pieces  with. 


€>E,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  l85 

powder,  like  a  solid  rock.  The  Roman  mortar  was  so  excel- 
lent in  its  composition,  as  to  perfectly  incorporate  with  the 
stone,  and  to  form  an  entire  and  infrangible  mass.  In  blasting 
this  tower,  I  observed  that  the  fracture  was  oftener  through 
the  solid  stone,  than  at  the  seams  or  junction. 

In  the  large  cities  of  France,  few  families  occupy  more  than 
one  story ;  the  stairs  wind  from  story  to  story,  and  are  as 
common  and  as  dirty  as  the  adjacent  street.  Although  in  the 
habit  of  perpetually  passing  those  who  live  above  and. below 
you,  under  the  same  roof,  you  may  reside  there  for  years,, 
without  a  knowledge,  even,  of  their  names. 

Having  adjusted  all  my  affairs,  and  determined  my  plans,  I 
bade  a  final  adieu  to  Nantes,  on  the  30th  March,  17&3.  I  met, 
on  the  confines  of  the  city,  my  faithful  La  Fleur,  my  compan- 
ion in  many  trying  scenes,  and  my  devoted  servant  for  several 
years.  He  was  in  waiting  to  take  his  farewell^  and  I  parted 
from  him  with  deep  emotion. 

We  stopped  at  Versailles  to  examine  the  royal  palace,  and 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  King  and  Queen  departing 
for  a  hunt,  attended  by  hounds,  horses,  and  huntsmen.  We 
rambled  over  the  palace  and  grounds,  with  interest  viewing 
the  numerous  exhibitions  of  taste,  luxury,  and  magnificence. 
On  the  road  to  Paris^  we  perceived  a  cloud  of  dust  in  the 
distance,  and  were  soon  met  by  couriers,  following  each  other 
in  rapid  succession,  to  announce  the  approach  of  the  hunt, 
and  to  clear  the  road.  We  instantly  drew  up,  in  accordance 
with  etiquette,  and  dismounted  to  witness  the  sport.  The 
affrighted  deer  soon  appeared  at  its  greatest  speed,  approach- 
ing  us  in  Ihe  road — the  King  close  at  his  heels,  with  all  his 
train  in  full  cry.  Within  twenty  feet  of  us,  the  deer  bounded 
over  a  hedge,  and  darted  off  in  a'new  direction.  This  move 
in  the  chase  brought  his  Majesty  very  near  us;  he  seemed 
much  animated  and  absorbed  in  the  chase.  He  was  attired 
in  a  lace  cocked  hat,  short  coatee,  and  heavy  boots  and  spurs. 
Quickl}^  dismounting,  he  cried  out  in  a  loud  voice,  "  vite  don- 
nez  moi  un  cheval  frais,"  instantly  remounted,  and  sprang 
over  the  hedge,  followed  by  his  retinue.     We  lost  sight  of  the 


186  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  KEVOLUTION- 

•chase,  and  could  only  hear  the  sound  of  the  hounds  and 
iiorns  gradually  sinking  upon  our  ears. 

During  the  spring  of  this  year,  the  National  Bank  of 
France,  by  a  royal  decree,  was  ordered  to  suspend  payment 
for  one  year.  The  army  and  navy  bills  on  the  government 
had  been  made  payable  at  this  Institution,  and  the  distress  and 
prostration  of  commercial  affairs,  which  resulted  from  this 
measure,  were  universal  and  most  disastrous.  In  common 
with  all  other  Americans,  whose  business  connections  were 
complicated  with  French  fiscal  operations,  our  House  was 
overwhelmed  by  the  effect  of  this  ordinance,  and  I  returned 
to  London,  in  the  summer  of  1783,  prostrated  and  impoverished- 

In  September  I  visited  Margate,  the  fashionable  resort  for 
bathing.  The  town  is  small,  but  spread  over  an  extended 
suface,  being  built  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre.  It  enjoys 
a,  fine  view,  and  the  advantage  of  a  free  circulation  of  the 
fresh  invigorating  sea-breezes.  I  was  amused  at  the  mode 
of  bathing  at. Margate;  horse  carts  are  constructed  for  the 
purpose,  forming,  with  canvas,  a  very  convenient  and  private 
apartment,  provided  with  chairs,  a  table,  looking-glass,  and 
other  necessary  appliances.  At  the  end  of  the  cart,  steps 
are  formed,  which  descend  into  the  water.  The  bather  em- 
barks— the  cart  is  driven  into  the  sea,  and  backed  towards 
the  ocean.  These  vehicles  are  stretched  along  side  by  side, 
in  a  line  ;  the  bathers  descend  the  steps,  or  plunge  fr.)m  them 
into  the  water.  They  make,  it  is  said,  sometimes  ludicrous, 
il  not  serious  mistakes,  in  regaining  their  respective  carts. 

Invited  by  a  kind  friend,  who  sympathized  in  my  affliction, 
to  accompany  him,  in  a  tour  to  the  Isle  of  Wight  and  South 
of  England,  I  left   London  in  March,  1784,  for  that  purpose. 

Portsmouth  is  the  principal  depot  for  the  English  Navy. 
It  has  a  noble  and  capacious  harbor,  protected  on  the  South 
and  West  by  the  Isle  of  Wight.  I  saw  several  ships  of  the 
line  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  and  at  Spithead;  and  the  top-gal- 
lant masts  of  the  "  Royal  George  "  projecting  above  the  waten 
Portsmouth  is  built  upon  a  peninsula,  and  was  then  esteemed 
the  best  fortified  place  in  England.     Gosport,  which  contained 


ELKANAH   WATSO]^-.  187 

the  Military  hospital,  is  situated  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the 
port.  We  examined  every  thing  of  interest  at  Portsmouth 
and  Portsea  n  ar  y  adjoining,  where  we  inspected  the  ex- 
tensive Naval  arsenal.  Here  lie  the  sinews  and  power  of  old 
England. 

The  country  still  wore  its  winter  drapery.  As  we  ap- 
proached Portsmouth,  a  most  extensive  and  exhilarating  view 
of  the  city  was  revealed  to  us,  with  the  harbor  studded 
with  ships,  and  in  the  distarce  that  Ocean  gem,  the  Isle  of 
Wight.  At  this  place,  we  embai  ked  on  board  a  miserable 
passage  boat.  In  our  transit  to  the  Isle,  we  ran  along  side 
several  of  the  ships  at  anchor — passed  Calshot  Castle,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  proceeded  under  a  brisk  gale 
along  the  coast  to  Cowes.  I  noticed  numerous  country  seats, 
and  was  charmed  with  the  appearance  of  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
its  gently  sloping  hills  descending  towards  the  sea,  and  evi- 
dently in  a  superior  state  of  cultivation.  We  remained  on 
this  lovely  island  fourteen  days,  making  daily  excursions  on 
horseback  in  different  directions ;  but  the  season  and  the 
weather  limited  our  rambles.  Cowes  is  the  stopping  haven 
for  American  vessels,  seeking  the  most  advantageous  Euro- 
pean markets  ;  here  they  wait  for  orders. 

Newport  is  the  capital  of  the  island.  It  is  built  upon  a 
plain,  encircled  by  hills  ;  the  houses  are  neat  and  pretty  ;  the 
population  about  2,500.  In  the  vicinity  of  Newport  still 
stands,  upon  a  lofty  hill,  the  venerable  castle  of  Carisbrook, 
rendered  famous  by  the  treacherous  reception  and  delivery 
of  Charles  I.  The  island  is  generally  broken,  especially  on 
the  South.  From  the  summit  of  a  steep  hill,  we  commanded 
a  fine  view  of  the  channel,  enlivened  by  ships  sailing  in  every 
course :  among  their  waving  flags,  I  was  gratified  to  per- 
ceive the  proud  stripes  of  America,  now  in  their  infancy;  but 
if  I  mistake  not,  destined  in  the  next  century  to  be  borne  in 
triumph  through  the  domains  of  Old  Neptune.  Scarcely  a 
tree  was  to  be  seen  upon  the  island,  save  fruit  trees  and  those 
of  ornament.     It  was  totally  stripped  of  the  livery  of  Nature, 


188  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


but  was  remarkably  healthy  and  pleasant — celebrated  for  its 
agricultural  productions,  excellent  sheep,  &c. 

We  passed  in  a  gale,  from  the  Isle  of  Wight  to  Southamp- 
ton, in  an  open  packet-boat.  This  city  contains  about  7,000  in- 
habitants, and  is  environed  by  ancient  fortifications  and  Ro- 
man towers.  The  same  evening  we  reached  the  venerable 
city  of  Salisbury.  A  small  river  runs- through  the  town; 
and  from  it  flowing  streams  are  conducted  along  many  of  the 
streets.  In  summer  these  streamlets  necessarily  have  a  cool- 
ing and  healthful  influence  upon  the  atmosphere.  I  spent 
a  long  time,  the  next  day,  in  exploring  a  noble  cathedral, 
which  is  pronounced  one  of  the  most  perfect  and  magnificent 
specimens  of  Gothic  architecture  in  England. 

About  two  miles  north  of  Salisbury  lie  the  venerable  ruins 
of  old  Sarum.  Although  it  contains  no  inhabitants,  it  sends  two 
members  to  Parliament;  it  has  happened  that  one  man  ex- 
ercised the  franchise  which  elected  the  two  members.  Six 
now  hold  the  poll  under  a  tree ;  while  some  of  the  most  po- 
pular cities  of  England  are  deprived  of  all  representation. 
What  an  outrage  upon  common  sense,  as  well  as  political  justice 
and  equality!  This  is  with  emphasis  called  a  rotten  borough. 
Such  incongruities  demand  a  radical  change — a  revolution,  if 
need  be,  although  it  may  pass  through  the  confines  of  blood. 
If  abuses  such  as  these  cannot  be  corrected  by  pacific  means, 
to  purge  and  purify  this  noble  nation,  a  temporary  sacrifice 
must  be  made  for  the  welfare  of  millions  yet  unborn. 

On  Salisbury  plains  are  fed  the  choicest  flocks  of  sheep  in 
England.  They  are  guarded  by  shepherds  and  well  trained 
dogs.  The  country  between  Salisbury  and  Plymouth  was  in  al} 
the  exuberance  of  high  tillage  and  beauty  ;  abounding  with 
cattle  and  fine  sheep,  and  adorned  by  hills  and  valleys,  hedges, 
and  costly  mansions  ;  but  destitute  of  forests  and  white  cot- 
tages to  cheer  and  enliven  the  face  of  the  country. 

Plymouth  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  spacious  bay.  The 
harbor  is  more  exposed  than  that  of  Portsmouth,  but  affords  a 
safe  anchorage.  At  its  mouth  stands  Eddystone  light-house, 
built  upon  a  rock,  amid  the  surges  and  tempests  of  the  ocean, 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  189 

and  presents  a  wonderful  triumph  of  human  art  and  energy. 
Plymouth  was  well -fortified,  and  defended  against  a  naval  attack 
by  three  hundred  heavy  cannon.  Had  D'Ovilliers,  who  invest- 
ed this  place  with  his  76  sail  in  1779,  landed  the  60,000  men 
which  were  on  the  coast  of  France,  ready  to  be  embarked,  it 
is  more  than  probable  that  the  fleet  in  the  harbor  would  have 
been  destroyed,  and  other  momentous  consequences  achieved. 
Near  Plymouth  is  situated  Mill  Prison,  in  which  so  many  suf- 
fering Americans  were  confined  and  oppressed,  during  the  late 
war. 

I  attended,  for  three  successive  days,  in  Covent  Garden 
Square,  the  violently-contested  election  for  Parliament,  be- 
tween Fox,  Lord  Hood,  and  Wray.  It  was  a  spectacle  of 
the  deepest  excitement  and  interest ;  but  disgraceful  in  the 
outrages  and  violence  constantly  attending  it.  I  occupied  a 
position  near  the  hustings,  upon  a  temporary  stage,  which 
aflforded  me  a  view  of  every  occurrence. 

The  candidates,  with  their  immediate  friends,  were  stationed 
in  front  of  a  small  church,  the  hustings  being  enclosed  within  a 
railway.  From  my  elevated  station,  looking  upon  the  sea  of 
faces,  I  judged  there  were  assembled  within  the  square,  at  the 
windows  commanding  a  view  of  it,  and  in  the  adjacent  streets, 
twenty-thousand  spectators,  to  witness  freemen  giving  in  their 
suffrages. 

The  contest  had  already  continued  several  weeks.  Instead 
of  the  silent  dignity  that  usually  characterizes  an  American 
election,  here  all  was  confusion  and  conflict ;  bloody  noses  and 
broken  heads — intimidation  and  corruption.  In  the  midst  of 
the  canvas,  two  self-created  armies  were  seen  entering  the 
square,  at  diff*erent  points ;  the  one  headed  by  a  son  of  Lord 
Hood,  (a  Captain  in  the  navy,)  consisting  of  sailors,  and  armed 
with  bludgeons ;  the  other  led  by  a  champion  of  Fox,  com- 
posed principally  of  hardy  Irish  chairmen.  They  bore  ban- 
ners inscribed  with  the  names  of  their  respective  candidates. 

The  purpose  of  each  party  was  to  secure  to  its  friends  ac- 
cess to  the  polls.  These  zealous  and  intelligent  champions  of 
British   liberty  and  free   elections,  met   with   a   rude   shock 


190  MEN  AND  TIMES  OE  THE  EETOLUTION 


exactly  in  front  of  the  hustings.  A  violent  conflict  ensued ; 
each  party  made  great  efforts  to  prostrate  the  standard  of  its 
opponents.  They  fought  with  proverbial  English  ferocity. 
The  excitement  instantly  spread  in  every  direction,  and  clubs, 
fists  and  canes  were  in  brisk  motion  throughout  the  crowd. 
Such  a.  scene  I  had  never  witnessed.  Victory  soon  declared 
for  the  sailors ;  the  chairmen  were  scouting  through  every 
avenue,  with  the  sailors  in  brisk  pursuit. 

The  poll  was  in  consequence  open  exclusively  to  the  friends 
of  Hood  and  Wray.  Within  two  hours,  the  chairmen,  strongly 
reinforced,  returned,  and  a  new  conflict  ensued.  saw  Fox, 
in  front  of  the  hustings,  clapping  his  hands  and  shouting  with 
the  utmost  engagedness.  The  sailors,  in  turn,  were  compelled 
to  fly,  leaving  many  of  both  parties  mangled  and  bloody,  who 
were  borne  into  the  adjacent  houses.  A  French  gentleman  at 
my  elbow,  justly  exclaimed,  "  If  this  be  liberty.  Heaven  deliver 
my  country  from  it."* 

I  was  highly  entertained  by  a  conversation  between  two 
ladies,  genteelly  dressed,  and  evidently  of  a  respectable  class 
in  society,  in  a  coach,  near  London,  and  record  it  as  illustra- 
tive of  the  prevailing  ignorance  in  England,  of  the  people  and 
condition  of  America.  One  remarked  to  the  other,  "  I  have 
seen  a  wonderful  sight — a  little  girl  born  in  a  place  called 
Boston,  in  North  America ;  and  what  is  very  astonishing,  but 
I  pledge  you  my  word  it  is  true,  she  speaks  English  as  well 
as  any  child  in  England ;  and,  besides,  she  is  perfectly  white !" 
"Is  it  possible!"  exclaimed  the  other,  in  no  counterfeit  aston- 
ishment at  the  recital.  Many  of  the  people  of  England  sup- 
pose us  to  be  a  nation  of  Indians,  Negroes,  or  mixed  blood. 

During  several  weeks  of  the  summer  of  1784,  I  stopped  at 
Highgate,  near  London.  My  residence  was  upon  a  height, 
which  commanded  a  view  of  the  city,  like  a  picture,  before  me. 
In  front,  a  diversified  scene  of  villages,  gardens,  verdant 
meadows,  and  fields  in  luxurious  vegetation ;  whilst  in  the 
back  ground,  I  viewed  the  distant  undulating  hills  of  Kent. 

*This  was  only  five  years  before  the  bursting  forth  of  the  French  Revolution. 


OK,    MEMOIRS   OF  ELEAKAH  WATSOIT.  19l 

Whilst  sojourning  at  Highgate,  I  became  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  Wildman,  so  distinguished  through  Europe  for 
his  almost  magic  power  over  bees.  He  was  a  gentleman  of 
fortune.  Wildman  was  accustomed  to  take  a  hive,  and  in  an 
incredibly  short  time  would  make  the  mass  of  bees  totally 
subservient  to  his  purpose,  in  performing  many  astonishing 
feats.  Among  other  exhibitions,  1  saw  him  form,  by  his 
amazing  influence  over  them,  a  hive,  in  the  shape  of  a  capj 
upon  his  daughter's  head.  In  a  moment,  at  the  word  of  com- 
mand, they  were  dispersed.  He  was  in  the  receipt  of  a  large 
income,  derived  from  his  bees,  which  he  had  arranged  in  glass 
hives,  in  various  gardens,  near  the  city  of  London. 

He  invited  me  to  visit  him,  at  one  of  his  principal  depots, 
on  a  particular  morning,  when,  he  said,  "  he  expected  fine 
sport."  I  fortunately  entered  the  garden  at  a  critical  moment, 
when  two  or  three  hives  were  swarming  and  intermingling. 
He  saw  me,  and  exclaimed,  *'Run!  run!  I  am  now  exercising 
my  highest  skill."  He  stripped  off  his  coat  and  dashed  into 
the  midst  of  them,  crying  out  to  me,  ''come  up — they  dare 
not  hurt  you  in  my  presence."  Although  I  confided  in  his 
assurance,  I  approached  him  with  caution,  apprehensive  I 
might  be  stung  to  death.  I  saw  the  bees  engaged  in  a  terri- 
ble conflict,  the  dead  falling  like  rain  drops.  Wildman  was 
all  motion  and  activity,  performing  his  hocus-pocus  operations, 
in  the  midst  of  a  cloud  of  bees.  At  length  they  separated, 
filing  off  to  their  respective  hives.  He  came  up  to  me,  all  in 
a  foam,  like  a  general  from  a  great  battle,  saying,  "  the  rascals, 
this  time,  have  given  me  a  great  deal  of  trouble."* 

Circumstances  afforded  me  the  control  of  a  few  weeks ;  I 
decided  to  occupy  them  by  a  tour  upon  the  continent,  without 
any  definitive  plan  as  to  its  extent  or  course.  'The  brief 
term  of  twelve  months  had  witnessed  the  deepest  vicissitudes 
in  my  affairs  and  position.  At  its  commencement,  moving  in 
the   first   circles    of   London,    associating   with    the  eminent 

*An  article  in  the  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  under  the  head  of  "  Wildman," 
fully  explains  the  instrumentality  used  in  effecting  these  truly  wonderful  and 
mysterious  performances.     (1821.) 


192  MEN  ANI>  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

statesmen  and  philosophers  of  England ;  at  its  close,  the  vic- 
tim of  misfortunes,  and  humbled  to  the  dust. 

Whilst  in  prosperity  and  affluence,  I  had  kept  an  open  table 
at  Nantes  twice  a  week,  for  French  and  American  guests  alter- 
nately ;  and  had  my  purse  constantly  put  under  contribution 
by  clamorous  friends.  At  the  end  of  the  period  I  refer  to, 
many  of  those  who  basked  in  the  sunshine  of  my  favor,  pass- 
ed me  in  silence  as  a  stranger.  Misfortunes,  to  such  minds, 
appear  a  crime,  and  expose  the  unfortunate  to  the  con- 
tempt of  the  despicable,  whose  abject  souls  have  once  bowed 
to  them  in  cringing  servility.  While  in  health,  and  gliding 
pleasantly  along  the  tide  of  prosperity  and  happiness,  and  all 
things  bearing  a  cheerful  and  smiling  face,  we  are  prone  to  for- 
get the  source  of  these  blessings ;  but  deprived  of  them,  and  shun- 
ned by  the  cold  and  heartless  world,  we  recollect  with  anguish 
what  we  have  been,  and  leaning  upon  a  holier  Arm,  we  are 
taught  submission  and  contentment.  Adversity  tests  our 
virtues,  and  tries  sincerity ;  above  all,  teaching  us  to  look  deep- 
ly into  the  treacherous  volume  of  the  human  heart.  In  these 
trying  scenes,  the  man  of  honor  and  spirit  must  think  and  act 
superior  to  the  world. 

Before  leaving  London,  1  was  induced  to  combine  some 
reflections,  upon  the  relative  character  and  interests  of  that 
metropolis  and  Paris.  The  houses  in  London  of  the  better 
class,  are  generally  three  or  four  stories  high,  occupied  usual- 
ly by  one  family;  those  of  Paris  are  from  five  to  seven  stories, 
each  story  containing  ordinarily  one  family.  The  external 
aspect  of  the  buildings  of  Paris,  (which  are  constructed  of 
white  hewn  stone,)  is  like  the  character  of  their  occupants, 
lively  and  cheerful.  In  London,  the  houses,  equally  character- 
istic of  their  inmates,  are  of  smoked  brick — dark  and  gloomy. 
The  internal  arrangement  of  the  latter  is  more  neat  and  ele- 
gant, while  the  palaces  and  hotels  of  Paris,  its  gardens  and  mon- 
uments, far  excel  those  of  London.  In  London  the  streets 
are  clean  and  spacious,  with  comfortable  side-walks;  in 
Paris    ihey   are  narrow   and   muddy,  and  destitute  of  side- 


on,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  19B 

'Walk.  The  London  street  is  paved  arching,  that  of  Paris, 
«concave. 

Paris,  unequalled  for  its  police,  is  protected  by  a  horse- 
patrol  ;  London  by  numerous  watchmen.  Few  thefts  escape 
undetected  in  Paris ;  in  London  you  are  every  moment  ex- 
posed to  a  foot-pad  or  pickpocket.  The  population  of  Paris 
is  civil,  and  that  of  London,  brutal.  The  light  and  fanciful 
<jharacter  of  the  French  excels  in  the  opera  and  pantomime, 
while  the  deep  toned  sentiment  of  the  English  better  sustains 
the  blood  and  horror  of  the  tragedy.  This  peculiarity  of  the 
English  is  strongly  exemplified  by  their  almost  universal 
fondness  for  pugilistic  exhi-bitions  ;~  a  practice  alike  brutal  and 
abhorrent  to  Chj^istian  civilization.  The  shops  and  stores  of 
Paris  far  surpass  in  beauty,  richness  and  decorations,  those 
of  London;  particularly  in  the  evening,  when  dazzlingly 
illuminated. 

The  lam.ps  of  London  are  more  numerous,  but  badly  ar- 
ranged on  the  margin  of  the  walk,  and  dimly  lighted ;  those 
•of  Paris,  suspended  over  the  streets,  are  much  larger,  and  are 
provided  with  reflectors ;  their  light  shining  upon  the  white 
buildings,  produces  a  pleasing  moonlight  effect.  Paris  is 
awkwardly  supplied  with  water  by  horse-carts ;  London  has 
the  new  river  poured  in  iron  conduits  along  its  streets.  Lon- 
don occupies  one  of  the  most  commanding  commercial  posi- 
tions in  the  world  ;  Paris,  situated  in  the  interior,  is  divided 
by  a  small  river,  and  depends  principally  upon  its  canals  for 
foreign  intercourse.  London  is  sustained  by  its  commerce ; 
Paris  by  its  manufactures,  and  the  fascinating  charms  that 
allure  ail  nations  within  its  wajls. 


13 


194  MEN  AND  TIMES   OP  THE  RETOLtlTrON ; 


CHAPTER     XVII. 

Passage  to  Holland — Helvoetsluys— Storks — Brielle — Revolution— The' 
Maese — Rotterdam — American  Flag— Dutch  Chimes — Braakle— 
Truckscutes  Country — Delft — William  of  Orange — Hague— Churches' 
— Mr.  Adams— North  Sea — Gardens — Mon.  Dumas — La  Maison  du 
Bois — Ryswick — Incident— Letter  of  Mr.  Adams — His  position  and 
Character — Letter  from  him — Description  of  Hague — Leyden — Mon. 
Luzac — Description  of  Leyden — Monument  to  Boerhaave. 

On  the  26th  of  May,  1784,  I  left  London,  bound  for  Holland' 
by  the  way  of  Harwich.  After  resisting  unsuccessfully  the 
villainous  exactions  of  the  British  revenue  officers  at  Har- 
w^ich,  we  submitted  to  their  extortions,  and  embarked  in  the 
evening,  on  board  of  the  packet,  bound  for  HelvoetsluySc 
On  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  we  approached  the  coast  of 
Holland,  without  having  seen  it,  until  very  near,  from  the 
fact  of  its  lying  even  lower  than  the  Ocean. 

We  sailed  along  the  coast  of  Zealand  upon  our  right, 
where  windmills,  light-houses,  avenues  of  trees,  and  distant 
spires,  were  continually  arising  to  our  view.  The  breeze  im- 
proving, pressed  us  rapidly  forward  to  the  pier  of  Helvoetsluys, 
which  we  soon  doubled,  and  in  another  instant  were  in  its 
harbor,  with  the  town  directly  before  us.  The  pier  was  lined 
with  spectators,  and  the  first  object  that  engaged  my  notice^ 
was  a  Dutchman  smoking  his  long  pipe,  his  national  char- 
acteristic. 

The  pier  is  strong,  constructed  of  piles,  driven  deep  into  the 
mud,  and  calculated  to  resist  the  utmost  impetuosity  of  the 
waves.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  with  small  Dutch  clinkers 
or  bricks  as  hard  as  stone,  which  are  placed  edgeways. 
The  town  is  small  but  well  fortified.  The  streets  neat  in  the 
extreme,  being  daily  thoroughly  washed.  In  truth,  the 
houses,  dress,  and  every  thing  around  us,  bore  the  impress  of 
that  peculiar  neatness  so  distinguishing  to  this  people. 

The  transition  had  been  so  sudden  and  so  marked  since  we 
landed,  that  I  could  scarcely  realize  my  position.     The  archi- 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON-.  195 

lecture  of  many  of  their  old  buildings  indicates  the  Spanish 
style.,  which  almost  loses  the  atlic  story  in  a  narrow  peak. 
The  women  of  the  lower  classes  were  singularly  dressed ;  their 
caps  set  tight  upon  the  head,  and  they  generally  wear  enor- 
mous common  brass  ear-rings. 

We  crossed  the  Island  of  Voorn,  over  miserable  and  muddy 
roads,  to  Brielle.  We  could  not  prevail  upon  our  mulish  driver 
to  receive  the  baggage  at  our  quarters,  although  starting  within 
six  doors,  its  remove  being  a  perquisite  of  the  porter's.  Placing 
our  baggage  in  one  wagon,  six  of  us  mounted  into  another,  and 
dragged  slowly  through  the  mud.  I  observed  upon  almost 
every  church  immense  storks'  nests.  These  birds  enjoy  pro- 
tection and  security  from  a  superstitious  prejudice  in  the  po- 
pular mind.  The  swan  is  here  known  as  the  imperial  bird, 
and  none  but  the  higher  ranks  are  allowed  to  keep  them. 

In  approaching  Brielle,  we  passed  along  an  avenue  of  beau- 
tiful trees  across  a  drawbridge  leading  over  a  wide  fosse,  and 
then  entering  the  gate,  traversed  the. best  part  of  the  city. 
The  Brielle  is  memorable  in  the  history  of  human  liberty  as 
the  scene  of  the  first  event  in  the  tremendous  conflict  that 
severed  Holland  from  the  tyranny  of  Spain.  Here  a  band  of 
exiles  first  planted  the  standard  of  revolt,  and  maintained  pos- 
session of  the  city,  in  defiance  of  the  power  of  the  Duke  of 
Alva.  The  flame  thus  enkindled  spread  with  electric  veloci- 
ty through  the  seventeen  provinces,  which  were  soon  sup- 
ported by  the  great  William,  who  w'as  at  the  time  employed 
in  levying  forces  in  Germany.  The  patriots  of  Holland  were 
habitual  in  imploring  the  blessing  of  Heaven  upon  their  ef- 
forts, and  were  animated  through  their  fearful  struggle  by  the 
conviction,  that  the  arm  of  the  Almighty  was  stretched  forth 
as  their  avenger.  Such  was  the  prevailing  sentiment  during 
the  progress  of  our  revolution;  and  no  class  of  our  citizens 
were  more  devoted  and  zealous  patriots  than  the  clergy  of 
New  England.  The  descendants  of  the  Hollanders  in  Ameri- 
ca exhibited,  during  our  Revolution,  the  same  love  of  liberty 
which  distinguished  their  ancestors,  and  were  eminent  for 
their  patriotic  devotion. 

There  is  a  certain  unique  peculiarity  combined  with  ele- 


196  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLtJTlON  ; 

gance  about  the  venerable  edifices  of  the  Breille,  which  cannot 
readily  be  described,  that  communicates  to  them  a  high  de^ 
gree  of  interest.  The  streets  are  wide  and  lined  with  two  rows 
of  trees,  along  the  banks  of  the  canals,  which  run  through 
their  centres.  The  deep  verdure  of  these  ancient  trees, 
strongly  reflected  from  the  large  windows  of  mirror-like  glass, 
which  are  bright  and  free  from  dust,  add  much  to  their 
lustre  and  richness.  A  custom  prevails  here,  which  has  an 
odd  appearance  to  my  untutored  American  notions.  A  re- 
flecting glass  is  arranged  upon  the  outside  of  the  most  gen- 
teel windows,  thus  affording  madam  the  opportunity  of  sitting 
unobserved  in  her  own  window,  and  at  her  ease  reconnoitering 
every  thing  that  occurs  in  the^^  street.  It  would  seem,  that 
the  great  business  of  life,  in  this  city,  is  washing  and  scrubbing, 
for  it  is  the  apparent  vocation  of  all,  from  early  dawn  to  night. 
'  Ships  sailing  up  the  Maese,  to  Rotterdam,  pass  directly 
under  the  ramparts  of  this  city.  The  river  is,  at  this  place, 
one  and  a  half  miles  wide.  We  sailed  up  the  Maese,  through 
a  charming  country,  to  Rotterdam,  passing  many  fine  villages, 
among  them,  Delfhaven,  famous  as  the  birth-place  of  Van 
Tromp,  the  pride  and  glory  of  Holland,  and  will  be  ever  dear 
and  memorable  to  the  heart  of  an  American  as  the  point  of 
embarkation  of  our  Puritan  forefathers.  The  country,  from 
the  deck,  appeared  on  a  line  with  the  water,  and  nothing  im* 
peded  our  view  but  the  intervening  trees.  The  drooping 
willows,  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  seemed  as  if  floating 
upon  the  stream.  A  fascinating  feature  in  the  scenery  of 
Holland,  is  their  numerous  ornamental  trees,  arranged  in  the 
most  tasteful  and  judicious  manner.  The  reclaimed  meadows 
afford  the  finest  pasturage  for  cattle,  who  seem  to  be  rioting 
in  clover. 

As  we  sailed  along  the  front  of  Rotterdam,  I  admired  the 
beautiful  effect  of  the  line  of  trees,  planted  upon  the  margin 
of  the  river;  standing  so  thick  as  to  interlace  their  limbs  and 
mingle  their  foliage,  and  half  depriving  us  of  a  view  of  the 
most  magnificent  dwellings  I  can  recollect  to  have  seen  any- 
where. Our  skipper  informed  me  that  the  promenade  under 
these  trees  is  eminently  attractive,  and  a  great  resort  for  the 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  197 

heau  monde  of  Rotterdam.  As  we  occasionally  glided  by 
an  avenue,  or  an  opening  among  the  trees,  we  penetrated, 
with  the  help  of  our  glasses,  into  the  heart  of  this  lovely 
city.  When  I  contemplated  the  singular  confusion  of  masts, 
spires,  trees,  canals,  and  houses,  all  jumbled  together,  I  was 
almost  led  to  think  that  nature  and  art,  in  a  whimsical  mo- 
ment, had  combined  to  plan  this  enchanting  compound.  All 
the  embellishment  and  verdure  of  Holland  is,  however,  the 
creation  of  the  industry  and  energy  of  man ;  and  yet  the 
mighty  ocean,  as  if  indignant  at  this  usurpation  of  his  do- 
main, has  often  resumed  his  terrible  empire,  and  overwhelmed 
the  land. 

Rotterdam  is  the  second  emporium  of  the  republic.  The 
harbor  is  secure  from  naval  attack,  but  inconvenient  of  ac- 
cess, on  account  of  its  remoteness  from  the  sea,  and  the 
shallowness  of  the  water.  The  port  is,  however,  very  com- 
modious, and  admits,  by  means  of  large  canals,  heavy  ships, 
quite  up  to  the  doors  of  the  ware-houses,  in  every  part  of 
the  city.  Rotterdam  is  populous,  the  houses  large  and  elegant, 
and  constructed  with  flat  ground  brick,  neatly  seamed  with 
white.  The  streets  are  wide  and  well-paved,  and  along  the 
canals,  have  broad  side-walks,  often  made  of  polished  white 
marble,  in  front  of  the  dwellings. 

Walking  in  a  pleasant  promenade,  under  the  shade  of  a 
fine  grove,  I  observed  many  of  the  citizens  pass  on  the  way 
to  their  country-seats.  Their  horses  are  good,  but  the  car- 
riages are  heavy  and  clumsy ;  some  of  them  I  observed  built 
in  the  form  of  triumphal  cars.  The  Dutch  gentlemen  seldom 
ride  on  horse-back,  and  never  without  being  exposed  to  the 
ridicule  of  the  rabble.  Their  habits  in  this  respect  singularly 
contrast  with  those  of  England.  The  English  pride  them- 
selves on  their  superb  horses,  and  are  unequalled  equestrians ; 
even  the  ladies  of  England  ride  with  great  courage  and  ele- 
gance, often  leaping,  at  full  speed,  high  fences  and  wide  ditches, 
with  infinite  spirit. 

We  were  often  puzzled,  in  the  streets,  for  an  interpreter  ;  but 
seldom  failed  to  be  understood,  when  we  addressed  persons  of 
genteel  appearance,  in  French.     It  surprised  me  to  perceive 


198  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

how  universally  this  language  is  now  spoken  throughout 
Europe.  Indeed,  as  far  as  my  own  observation  has  extended, 
it  is  almost  vulgar  in  the  heau  mo7ide,  to  speak  the  native 
tongue.  A  knowledge  of  French  is  becoming  almost  the 
criterion  to  distinguish  a  gentleman.  A  foreigner  is  always 
addressed  in  this  popular  and  charming  language. 

No  two  dialects  bear  a  greater  affinity  than  the  Dutch  and 
English.  When  I  first  arrived  in  France,  it  was  several 
weeks  before  I  could  understand  a  consecutive  French  phrase; 
but  the  moment  I  landed  in  Holland,  I  recognised  and  com- 
prehended entire  sentences,  English  in  their  structure,  but 
divested  of  its  hissing  sound.  In  examining  a  letter  written 
in  Dutch,  I  discovered  so  many  words  and  phrases  of  English 
analogy,  as  to  have  no  difficulty  in  collecting  its  import.  And 
yet  the  English  cockney  habitually  sneers  at  what  he  calls 
the  uncouth  jargon  of  the  Dutch. 

The  John  Bull  London  cockney,  of  all  civilized  men,  is  the 
most  national,  the  most  illiberal,  and  the  most  ignorant,  save 
in  his  immediate  vocation.  He  tests  everything  in  nature 
and  art,  by  the  scale  affiDrded  by  England,  (in  his  exclusiveness,) 
the  standard  of  perfection.  Even  the  fruits  of  America 
growing  ten  degrees  nearer  the  equator,  suffer  with  him  in 
this  comparison.  He  pronounces  our  soldiers  and  sailors 
inferior  to  those  of  England,  and  yet  we  have  discovered  the 
secret  of  relieving  them  from  two  entire  armies,  and  our  gal- 
lant tars  have  almost  uniformly  beaten  them,  gun  for  gun. 

The  market-place  of  Rotterdam  contains  a  fine  statue  of 
Erasmus,  who  was  born  here.  At  the  Church  of  St.  Lawrence, 
we  ascended  a  lofty  tower,  whence  an  extensive  view  is 
commanded.  The  city  appeared  like  a  highly  finished  and 
curious  picture  below  us,  and  the  country  beyond,  cultivated 
like  a  continuous  garden,  furnished  a  rich  back-ground,  spot- 
ted here  and  there  by  walled-cities,  and  slightly  shaded  by 
two  or  three  small  forests,  and  intersected  in  every  direction 
by  long  lines  of  blue  canals.  I  know  not  that  I  ever  passed  a 
more  pleasant  hour  than  in  thus  gazing  upon  the  beauties  of 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  199 

this  wonderful  country,  which  seemed  like  an  enchanted  fairy- 
land. 

In  ranging  with  our  glasses  over  the  extended  prospect 
afforded  by  our  elevated  position,  we  encompassed,  in  our 
view,  Delft,  Dort,  Hague,  Brielle,  Utrecht,  and  Amsterdam, 
which  embrace  the  best  part  of  the  province  of  Holland.  It 
seems  beyond  the  power  of  the  most  brilliant  and  active  imagi- 
nation to  conceive  a  spectacle  more  attractive.  This  country 
never  fails  to  impress  even  Europeans,  (habituated  to  superior 
agricultiyx'al  cultivation,)  with  wonder  and  admiration ;  but  the 
-effect  is  still  m.ore  powerful  upon  the  mind  of  an  American, 
accustomed  to  contem.plate  nature  in  her  wild  and  unadorned 
'Condition.  This  is  a  region  of  art,  moulded  by  industry  and 
labor  into  beauty  and  productiveness. 

My  heart  bounded,  when  I  saw  our  glorious  stripes  stream- 
ing among  the  shipping  in  the  harbor  of  Rotterdam.  Notwith- 
standing their  youth,  they  are  forward  in  introducing  them- 
selves into  the  company  of  the  antiquated  flags  of  Europe, 
which  have  waved  upon  the  ocean  until  they  have  begun  to  fade 
with  age;  but  the  stars  and  stripes  shine  with  the  lustre  of  a 
rainbow  after  a  thunder-storm.  The  tempest  has  subsided, 
and  a  serene  repose  pervades  the  nations.  In  addition  to  the 
American  ships,  we  observed  several  large  Dutch  vessels, 
freighted  to  carry  over  to  the  United  States  more  than  one 
thousand  German  emigrants. 

What  a  proud  satisfaction  the  consideration  affords  that  by 
a  bold  and  arduous  conflict,  America  has  opened  in  her  bosom 
an  asylum  for  the  oppressed  and  suffering  of  every  nation. 
This  ennobling  fact — when  we  reflect  on  its  extended  effects 
and  probable  duration — is  worth  all  the  dangers  and  woes  we 
have  endured  in  the  fearful  struggle.  The  persecuted,  under 
the  benign  protection  of  our  laws,  will  find  security  and  peace, 
and  tortured  virtue  and  exiled  worth,  through  succeeding  gen- 
erations, will  receive  among  us  refuge  and  defence.  I  pray 
Ood,  our  recent  fabric  may  never  be  shattered  by  the  clashing 
interests  of  the  different  States,  that  the  Confederacy  will  pur- 
sue its  illustrious  career,  and  that  local  views  will  be  nobly 


200  MEN.  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTION  ; 

sacrificed  to  the  common  weal.     Such  were  the  sentiments- 
and  hopes  inscribed  on  my  original  journal. 

The  Dutch  chimes  are  so  exceeding  musical  and  sweet,  that 
I  often  stopped  in  the  middle  of  the  street  to  listen  to  their 
harmonious  notes.  The  bells  are  clustered  in  great  numbers, 
in  niches  around  the  towers  of  the  churches.  In  the  church 
of  St.  Lawrence,  we  noticed  graves,  from  which  bones  and 
skulls  were  protruding.  A  horrid  spectacle!  An  old  sexton 
was  busily  employed  in  collecting  the  bones  and  arranging 
them  in  separate  boxes,  about  three  feet  square,  to  be  re-in- 
terred in  this  compact  form.  This  I  find  in  the  ancient  cities 
of  the  continent  is  the  prevailing  custom,  and  is  less  abhorrent 
to  the  human  mind  than  the  promiscuous  and  unhonoring 
mingling  of  them  in  the  piles  of  the  charnel-houses  of  England- 
There  is  a  monument  erected  in  the  church  of  St.  Law- 
rence, which  bears  a  Latin  inscription  of  the  following 
inr»port : 

"  John  Braakel, 

The  terror  of  the  sea.     To  whom 

Fire,. earth  and  water  submitted, 

Is  covered  with  this  stone. 

His  spirit,  even  now,  seems  ready  to  burst  into  flame, 

And  to  break  from  its  earthly  habitation,. 

As  he  broke  the  chains  of  iron." 

I  was  impressed  and  pleased  with  the  bold  and  poetical 
thoughts  of  this  epitaph,  and  on  examining  the  history  of 
Holland,  I  found  that  Braakel  was  a  Dutch  Admiral  from 
Harlem,  who  distinguished  himself  in  a  memorable  exploit  in 
the  Holy  War,  in  1245.  The  passage  of  the  Nile,  near  Damietta^ 
was  obstructed  by  an  enormous  iron  chain,  which  Braakel  suc- 
ceeded in  severing,  by  means  of  an  immense  saw,  attached  io 
three  of  his  vessels.  The  invention  was  successful,  and  the 
fall  of  Damietta  ensued  in  consequence.  The  idea  was  said 
to  have  been  suggested  by  a  Harlem  boy.  The  city  has^ 
adopted,  from  that  incident,  the  motto — "  Valour  overcomes 
power." 

Holland  presents  the  aspect  of  an  extensive  cultivated  gar.- 


» 


OK,  MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  SQl 

den;  but  it  wants  that  variety  of  scenery,  so  essential  to 
engage  and  fix  the  imagination.  England  and  France  are 
more  diversified  and  romantic,  and  are  generally  under  ahnost 
as  high  improvement,  In  each  of  these  countries  we  meet 
here  and  there  an  artificial  forest;  we  admire  their  spacious 
and  extended  canals,  their  venerable  castles,  splendid  country 
mansions,  their  large  and  magnificent  edifices,  their  delightful 
roads,  and  infinite  other  objects  of  interest  and  attraction, 
which  allure  and  fasten  the  attention  of  an  American.  When 
we  abandon  the  contemplation  of  these  exhibitions,  the  results 
^f  art,  and  enter  upon  the  broad  domain  of  nature,  we  find 
her  works  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  but  in  miniature,  when 
contrasted  with  the  vast  lakes,  the  immeasurable  rivers,  the  bold 
harbors,  the  giant  trees,  and  lofty  mountains  of  America. 

We  jumped  on  board  of  the  truckscute,  or  packet  boat,  just 
without  the  gates  of  Rotterdam,  and  were  put  in  m,otion  by  a 
single  horse,  trotting  along  the  embankment  of  the  canal.  Our 
boat  was  a  floating  house,  sixty  feet  long.  The  cabin,  which  was 
situated  upon  the  deck,  was  calculated  to  hold  conveniently  eight 
or  ten  persons,  who  secure  it  by  a  small  extra  charge.  It  was 
prettily  arranged,  with  a  narrow  table,  cushioned  benches  and 
sash  windows.  The  rest  of  the  boat  was  covered  by  a  flat  roof, 
strewn  over  v/ith  small  shells  or  gravel  cemented  in  tar,  which 
forms,  for  the  passengers,  a  pleasant  and  secure  foothold.  The 
progress  of  the  boat  was  exact,  being  three  miles  an  hour.  The 
Dutch  compute  distances  along  their  canals  by  hours,  and  not 
unfrequentl}^  by  the  number  of  pipes  smoked.  Clouds  of 
tobacco  smoke  were  constantly  issuing  from  the  little  windows 
attached  to  the  common  room  below  us.  I  was  surprised  to 
notice  with  what  dexterity  the  boats  avoid  each  other,  and 
pass  below  the  numerous  bridges.  The  higher  classes  of  the 
Dutch  people  reside  most  of  the  summer  at  their  villas,  many 
of  which  are  constructed  on  the  most  elegant  and  magnificent 
scale  ;  all  are  neat  and  picturesque,  and  generally  situated  near 
a  canal,  with  a  fairy  summer  house  directly  on  its  banks. 
These  houses  are  comparatively  all  windows.  The  gardens  ap- 
peared^as  we  moved  along  the  canal,  picturesque  and  beautiful* 


202  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


not  unlike  splendid  and  extended  paintings.  The  Dutch  seem 
inordinately  attached  to  evergreens  and  box ;  many  of  their 
summer-houses  are  enveloped  with  them,  and  we  often  noticed 
them  shaped  into  grottos,  arches,  and  other  pleasing  and 
fantastical  forms.  The  fragrancy  of  the  meadows  and  flower- 
gardens  enhance,  at  this  season,  the  pleasure  of  this  agreeable 
mode  of  travelling  in  Holland.  From  the  top  of  our  boat,  we 
ever  and  anon  caught  a  transient  glimpse  into  their  airy  dwel- 
lings, where  we  perceived  the  happy  citizens  regaling  them- 
selves in  parties,  sipping  their  tea,  smoking,  playing  cards, 
hearing  music,  reading,  or  enjoying  some  other  domestic  com- 
fort. I  almost  envied  them  the  calm  and  delightful  repose  oi 
their  country  life. 

Delft  appeared  a  pleasant  and  elegant  place,  containing 
about  20,000  inhabitants.  It  was  well  defended  from  enemies 
and  the  sea,  by  an  old  wall  and  three  embankments.  The 
Stadthouse  is  a  stately,  ancient,  Gothic  structure;  it  contains 
many  excellent  paintings ;  one  that  demands  particular  atten- 
tion, represented  the  assassination  of  William  of  Orange,  which 
was  affectingly  impressive  and  finely  executed.  They  pointed 
out  to  us  the  spot  where  he  fell,  and  a  hole  in  the  wall,  perforated 
by  the  ball  which  had  passed  through  his  head. 

Both  the  old  and  new  churches  were  noble  structures 
adorned  by  lofty  spires.  The  chimes  were  unusually  harmo- 
nious ;  they  were  in  active  performance  as  we  entered  a 
Stupendous  pile,  where  rests  the  ashes  of  the  Prince  of  Orange. 
In  contemplating  his  magnificent  tomb,  my  heart  swelled  with 
the  deepest  emotion.  The  struggle  of  Holland  for  freedom,  so 
fraught  with  blood  and  suffering,  seemed  like  a  type  of  our  own 
conflict  for  emancipation. 

The  character  of  William  of  Orange ;  his  untiring  and 
devoted  patriotism  ;  his  stern  and  unyielding  integrity  ;  his  fixed 
and  determined  purpose,  and  firm  reliance  upon  the  support  of 
Heaven,  presents  the  portraiture  of  our  own  immortal  Wash- 
ington. Their  fame  and  their  achievements  entitle  their  names 
to  be  inscribed  in  letters  of  light  upon  the  arch  of  heaven.  As 
these  thoughts  revolved  in  my  mind,  standing  beside  the  mau- 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  203 

soleum,  I  felt  the  tear  involuntarily  start,  and  my  breast  heave 
with  the  s\crh  of  enthusiasm  and  homage.  The  Prince's  statue, 
in  marble,  lies  upon  the  top  of  the  tomb,  with  the  effigy  of  his 
favorite  dog  at  his  feet,  which,  tradition  says,  died  of  grief  im- 
mediately after  the  death  of  his  master.  The  succeeding 
Princes  of  Orange  have  all  been   interred  in   this   Church. 

Delft  was  celebrated  for  its  earthenware,  and  formerly  pro- 
duced a  fine  imitation  of  porcelain,;  but  the  English  have 
eclipsed  them  in  the  manufacture  of  the  former,  whilst  the 
French  have  superseded  them  in  the  latter.  The  streets  of 
Delft  are  very  broad  ;  two  of  them  extend  a  mile  in  length- 
The  pavement  in  front  of  many  dwellings  was  constructed  of 
black  and  white  marble,  beautifully  inlaid  in  fanciful  forms. 

We  reached  the  Hague  late  in  the  evening,  and  although 
the  moon  shone  brilliantly  in  the  heavens,  the  dense  exhala- 
tions from  the  canal  obscured  our  view  of  the  adjacent  coun- 
try. The  lights  from  the  summer-houses  glimmering  through 
the  mist,  had  a  fine  efl^ect.  The  dampness  of  the  evening  air 
in  Holland  is  exceedingly  uncomfortable,  and  must  prove 
very  unhealthy.  The  stench  arising  from  the  canals  as  we 
approached  the  Hague,  was  almost  intolerable.  We  were 
astonished  at  being  offended  by  such  a  nuisance  so  near  one  of 
the  most  elegant  cities  of  the  world. 

I  had  formed  an  exalted  conception  of  the  splendor  and 
richness  of  the  Hague,  but  I  found  what  is  so  unusual,  the 
reality  far  surpassing  my  most  ardent  imaginings.  My  first 
visit  of  observation  was  to  the  churches  of  the  city.  All 
Dutch  churches  which  I  have  seen,  are  divested  of  those 
gaudy  and  flaunting  ornaments,  so  common  in  France  and 
other  Roman  Catholic  countries.  The  walls  of  the  former 
are  occupied  by  the  arms  of  the  principal  families,  worked 
upon  velvet,  and  encased  with  broad,  black  frames.  They 
present  the  appearance,  or  at  least  the  idea  of  the  interior  of 
large  tombs,  and  communicate  a  dark  and  gloomy  air  to  the 
spacious  apartment.  The  ministers  were  speaking  to  crowd- 
ed and  attentive  audiences,  who  all  wore  their  hats. 

From  the  churches  I  repaired  to  the  grand  parade,  where 


204 


the  garrison  was  reviewed  by  the  Prince  of  Orange,  amid  a  great 
concourse  of  the  nobility  and  citizens.  The  troops  appeared 
soldierlike,  and  well  drilled.  The  uniform  was  blue,  faced  with 
red.  After  the  parade,  I  strolled  through  this  most  magni- 
ficent and  interesting  city.  Every  thing  bears  the  aspect  of 
splendor  and  grandeur.  I  called  at  the  hotel  recently  pur- 
chased by  Mr.  Adams  for  the  American  government.  It  is 
respectably  furnished  in  accordance  with  Republican  simplici- 
ty— contains  a  fine  library,  and  has  attached  to  it  a  tasteful 
little  garden. 

I  was  received  in  the  most  cordial  manner  by  the  Ambas- 
sador, and  in  the^afternoon  took  an  airing  with  him  through  the 
most  interesting  sections  of  the  city,  and  extended  our  ride  to 
the  pleasant  fishing-town  of  Schjrewling,  two  miles  from  the 
Hague,  upon  the  margin  of  the  sea.  The  weather  was  fine, 
and  the  roads  and  avenues  thronged  with  people,  all  pressing 
onward,  on  foot  and  carriages,  to  inhale  the  sea-breezes,  and 
to  walk  upon  the  beach.  The  Ambassador's  livery  is  the 
same  as  the  American  uniform,  and  is  recognized  by  all  ranks 
of  the  citizens,  who  pay  so  much  respect  to  it,  that  a  few  more 
jaunts  with  him  to  Schrewling,  would  have  compelled  me  to 
buy  a  new  hat. 

The  road  was  charming,  and  in  the  whole  length  shaded  by 
a  row  of  trees  on  each  side,  so  precisely  in  lines,  that  we  saw  the 
steeple  of  the  village  church  from  the  gates  of  the  city,  through 
an  arch  formed  by  the  limbs  of  the  trees.  The  North  Sea 
opened  suddenly  to  our  view,  at  the  termination  of  the  avenue. 
Nature  has  provided  a  very  effectual  barrier  against  the  ocean, 
in  the  Downs,  which  have  been  thrown  up  by  the  waves,  along 
most  of  the  coast  of  this  low  country.  I  noticed  the  same 
circumstance  on  the  coast  of  the  Austrian  Netherlands.  The 
principal  and  permanent  security  of  the  country,  however,  rests 
upon  their  artificial  dykes  and  embankments. 

We  passed  in  this  route  the  celebrated  gardens  of  the  Count 
de  Bentick,  and  stopped  to  examine  them.  They  are  distin- 
guished from  other  gardens  in  the  province  by  their  style, 
simplicity  and  picturesque  views.     They  had  a  fine  orangery. 


OH,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  205 

grottos,  water  spouts,  a  forest,  lake,  and  hills,  in  miniature,  a 
terrace  walk  and  menagerie.  On  every  side  the  eye  was  enrapt 
and  fascinated  by  objects  of  interest  and  novelty.  1  spent  the 
evening  with  Mr.  Adams,  in  company  with  the  eminent  M. 
Dumas,  who  made  himself  conspicuous  by  his  diplomatic 
qualities  in  the  early  part  of  our  contest,  at  the  court  of  France, 
as  well  as  in  Holland.  Communing  with  two  gentlemen  of 
such  enlightened  genius  and  deep  learning,  I  could  not  fail  to 
collect  all  the  information  I  was  eager  to  obtain  relative  to 
this  country  and  the  present  convulsed  state  of  its  compli* 
cated  government.  I  shall  recur  to  this  subject  in  a  succeed- 
ing page. 

I  visited,  the  succeeding  day,  with  Mr.  Adams,  "La  Maison 
du  Bois,"  which  is  situated  about  one  mile  from  the  Hague,  in 
the  midst  of  the  largest  natural  forest  of  Holland.  This"  place 
was  built  by  the  widow  of  the  Prince  Henry  Frederick,  to 
consecrate  and  perpetuate  his  memory.  It  is  an  elegant 
structure,  and  entirely  sequestered  from  the  gay  world,  being 
in  a  manner  embosomed  in  a  thick  grove,  which  is  penetrated 
by  numerous  romantic  walks,  leading  from  the  palace.  Over 
the  gate  we  observed  the  arms  of  Orange-Nassau.  The  grand 
saloon,  with  its  exquisite  paintings,  is  the  peculiar  object  of 
attraction.  They  were  principally  the  works  of  the  great 
masters,  Rubens  and  Van-der-worf,  exhibiting,  in  very  large 
pictures,  the  brilliant  triumphs  of  Frederick  Henry,  who  con- 
solidated that  fabric  of  Independence,  which  was  erected  by  his 
immortal  father,  and  vigorously  protected  by  his  gallant  brother. 
Prince  Maurice.  Full  length  portraits  of  William  I.  and 
Maurice,  are  also  preserved  here,  and  their  marble  busts 
adorn  the  mantel.  The  floors  of  this  palace  were  of  black-wal- 
nut, with  rich  carpets.  In  one  apartment  we  saw  an  India 
japanned-railing,  inclosing  the  princess'  bed,  which  is  inlaid 
with  mother-of-pearl,  and  cost  28,000  guilders.  We  also  ex- 
amined a  splendid  painting,  forming  a  flower-piece,  by  a  re- 
markable Flemish  master,  and  another,  "Vulcan  in  his  Shop," 
by  Rubens. 

Mr.  Adams  discharged  his  carriage,   and  we   occupied   an 
^hour  or  two  in  strolling  about  the  forest.      The  lofty  oaks, 


206  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

thrown  promiscuously  together,  revived  lively  recollections  of 
American  scenery.  The  trees  were  alive  w^ith  birds  of  bril- 
liant plumage,  whose  sweet  melody  echoed  through  the  woods. 
In  the  afternoon  we  made  an  excursion  to  the  village  of  Rys- 
wick,  situated  between  the  Hague  and  Delft.  The  road  is 
ornamented  by  lofty  trees,  and  skirted  by  verdant  meadows. 
This  village  is  memorable  for  the  Peace  of  1697,  concluded 
here.  A  palace  belonging  to  the  Prince  of  Orange  stood  in  the 
environs,  eleborately  built  of  hewn  stone,  but  at  the  period  of 
my  visit  was  rapidly  falling  into  decay. 

The  ensuing  day  was  occupied  in  generally  exploring  objects 
worthy  of  attention,  in  the  city,  and  in  the  afternoon,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Adams,  I  went  to  Delft.  Returning  in  the  even- 
ing, along  the  border  of  the  canal,  Mr.  Adams  suddenly  espi- 
ed a  child  struggling  in  the  canal ;  he  instantly  darted  forward, 
and  was  in  the  act  of  bounding  into  the  canal  to  the  rescue, 
when  I  restrained  him,  as  I  perceived  a  lusty  fellow  already 
in  the  water,  in  aid  of  the  child.  This  incident  is  alluded  to 
by  Mr.  Adams,  in  a  letter  to  me  dated  Philadelphia,  December. 
16,  1790: 

"I  have  this  moment  received  your  favor  of  November  30th  ;  and 
the  volume*  inclosed  with  it,  an  acceptable  present,  for  which  I  thank 
you.  I  have  not  had  time  to  read  it,  and  therefore  can  form  no  opin- 
ion of  its  merit.  By  a  kind  of  '  Sortes  Virc/ilianae,^''  I  stumbled  upon 
the  anecdote  of  the  child  drowning  in  the  canal  at  the  Hague,  which 
brought  to  my  recollection  the  feelings  by  both  experienced  at  that 
distressing  moment,  which  was  abundantly  compensated  by  the  joy 
at  the  unexpected  deliverance  of  the  little  urchin.      ***** 

"  My  rambles  abroad  appear  to  me  like  a  dream,  and  if  your  book 
had  not  recalled  the  drowning  babe,  I  might  never  have  thought  of  it 
again.  My  imagination  is  always  refreshed  by  the  recollection  of 
my  walks  and  rides  about  the  Hague,  and  by  those  in  the  'Bois  de 
Boulogne  '  which  are  charming^  much  more  than  by  the  splendid 
scenes  at  the  courts  and  in  cities." 

The  lofty  position  occupied  by  Mr.  Adams  in  the  diploma- 
tic body  at  this  Court,  was  alike  honorable  to  himself  and 
elevating  to  the  American  character.  He  was  universally 
esteemed  for  his  deep  sagacity  and  extensive  political  acquire- 
ments. He  talked  but  little,  but  thought  profoundly.  Con- 
versant at  a  momentous  crisis  with  the  politics  of  two  hemis- 
*"  Tour  in  Holland,"  printed  in  1790. 


OE,  MEMOIES  OF  ELEANAH  WATSON.  207 

pheres,  his  comprehensive  and  discriminating  mind  seemed 
readily  to  grasp,  and  intuitively  comprehend,  all  the  conflicting 
questions  of  the  day.  He  did  not  ape  the  graces  of  a  Chester- 
field, but  yet  had  fully  attained  every  important  accomplish- 
ment of  the  statesman.  America  was  deeply  and  essential- 
ly indebted  to  Mr.  Adams  for  those  important  measures — the 
extension  of  our  boundaries,  and  the  protection  of  our  fisheries. 
The  defeat  of  Sir  Joseph  York  secured  the  support  of  Hol- 
land at  a  critical  epoch.  His  talents,  and  the  stern  republican 
simplicity  of  his  character,  endowed  him  with  a  strong  and 
peculiar  influence  in  the  government  at  the  Hague,  and  Hol- 
land, I  then  believed,  may  yet  probably  be  indebted  to  his  prac- 
tical judgment  for  suggesting  some  radical  reforms  in  its  un- 
wieldy and  convulsed  system. 

The  mind  of  this  devoted  patriot  was  then  intently  engaged 
in  meditating  upon  the  policy,  and  in  promoting  the  glory 
and  power  of  his  country.  On  one  occasion  at  the  Hague, 
dining  alone  with  Mr.  Adams,  the  dessert  upon  the  table,  and 
the  servants  withdrawn,  a  long  silence  ensued ;  he  seemed 
unconscious  of  my  presence,  his  eye  was  fastened  upon  the 
table,  and  his  mind  apparently  absorbed  in  a  deep  reverie. 
This  posture  of  affairs  continued  so  long  as  to  arouse  some 
degree  of  excitement  in  my  feelings,  and  I  was  in  the  act  of 
leaving  the  table,  when  his  countenance  suddenly  flashed  and 
brightened  up,  and  turning  to  me,  he  exclaimed,  with  much 
animation,  "  Yes,  it  must  be  so ;  twelve  sail  of  the  line  support- 
ed by  a  proportion  of  frigates.  When  America,  my  friend, 
shall  possess  such  a  fleet,  she  may  bid  defiance  upon  her  own 
coast  to  any  naval  power  of  Europe." 

In  connection  with  this  anecdote,  I  transcribe  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Adams,  written  thirty-four  years  after  this  period,  and 
containing  a  familiar  and  playful  allusion  to  my  imputing  to 
him  the  paternity  of  the  American  Navy. 

"QuiNCY,  April,  14,  1819. 

"  Dear  Sir — Your  letter  of  the  3d  inst,  is  like  the  recognizance 
of  an  old  friend,  after  the  separation  of  several  years. 

"  I  lay  no  serious  claim  to  the  title,  of  father  of  the  American 
Navy,  or  of  any  thing  else,  except  my  own  lamily.     Have  you  seen 


^8 


the  History  of  the  American  Navy,  written  by  a  Mr.  Clark,  and 
edited  by  Mat.  Carey  1  I  gave  the  name  of  Alfred,  Columbus^ 
Cabot,  and  Andrew  Doria,  to  the  first  ships  that  sailed  under  the 
flag  of  the  United  Colonies. 

"  My  country  has  been  to  me  so  very  capricious  and  fastidious  a 
mistress,  that  she  would  never  receive  my  addresses  long  enough  to 
give  me  an  opportunity  of  becoming  a  father,  legitimate  or  illegiti- 
mate, of  any  child,  son  or  daughter.  You  have  a  much  better  claim 
to  the  character  of  father  of  American  Agricultural  Societies.  You 
have  preached  with  more  success  and  much  better  effect.  I  claim  no 
fatherhood  but  that  of  a  family. 

"I  have  had  six  children,  two  of  whom  Heaven  took  to  itself  in 
their  cradles.  Four  grew  up,  and  had  families ;  two  have  departed 
and  left  children.  Two,  thank  God,  yet  live.  I  have  now  living, 
two  sons— fourteen  grandchildren  and  five  great  grandchildren.  Of 
this  ti'ibe,  1  claim  to  be  a  father  5  but  I  assure  you,  the  duties  I  owe 
to  this  little  flock  are  greater  than  I  can  perform  with  my  utmost 
exertions.  Talk  not  then  to  me  in  future,  of  any  other  fatherhood 
than  this ;  for  my  capacity  is  inadequate  even  to  this.  1  am,  Sir, 
with  agreeable  re<3ol lections  of  our  acquaintance  in  different  coun- 
tries, 

"  Your  friend, 

"John  Adams." 

Hague  is  situated  two  miles  from  the  sea.  Although  it  was 
called  a  village  (from  the  fact  of  its  not  being  walled,  and  sending, 
no  deputy  to  the  states)  it  enjoyed  other  advantages  suflicient 
to  place  it  in  the  class  of  the  first  cities  of  Europe,  for  opulence 
and  luxury.  Lord  Chesterfield  pronounced  it  "  the  most  ele* 
gant  city  in  the  world."  It  is  environed  by  a  spacious  canal, 
ornamented  by  lofty  trees.  The  situation  is  somewhat  eleva- 
ted, and  is  esteemed  healthy.  It  occupies  a  favorable  position, 
in  the  heart  of  a  fertile  country,  surrounded  by  fortified  cities 
and  villages — splendid  villas — fine  gardens — and  rich  mea* 
dows.  Most  of  the  streets  are  pleasantly  shaded,  and  general- 
ly broad.  The  houses  were  many  of  them  large  and  elegant, 
being  chiefly  built  of  hewn  stone,  and  yet  scarcely  a  pebble 
could  be  gathered  in  a  natural  deposit,  in  the  whole  Republic. 
The  squares  are  numerous,  and  planted  with  ornamental  trees. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  Hague  are  modelled  upon  the  Parisians : 
exceedingly  polite,  entirely  a  la  Fran^ais ;  seldom  speaking 
their  native  language,  and  much  addicted  to  dissipation.     The 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  209 

ladies  are  generally  very  handsome  and  refined.  The  Vyver- 
burg  was  occupied  on  one  side  by  a  range  of  elegant  edifices, 
and  opposite  to  them  a  stately  row  of  trees ;  between  these 
was  a  spacious  basin  of  water,  formed  of  hewn  stone,  with  a 
romantic  little  island  in  the  centre,  crowned  with  shrubbery. 
Near  this,  is  a  large  grove  embracing  a  Mall,  which  is  en- 
closed. 

The  Hague  is  the  seat  of  government  of  Holland,  and  of 
course  the  residence  of  the  diplomatic  corps.  This  gives  it 
a  glare  of  splendor  and  show,  which  I  fear  adorns  merely  the 
surface.  The  Council  of  State,  the  Council  of  Nobility,  the 
Courts  of  Justice,  and  every  description  of  national  business 
concentrates  at  the  "  Court,"  the  residence  of  the  Stadtholder. 
This  was  surrounded  by  a  deep  fosse,  and  approached  by  three 
draw-brid_es,  where  guards  were  stationed  to  raise  them  on 
any  emergency.  The  idea  of  thus  interposing  a  barrier  between 
the  people  and  their  legislators,  is  totally  repugnant  to  Ameri- 
can notions  of  the  free  f'ebates  of  a  Republican  Assembly. 
The  t^x  stence  of  this  fact  in  Holland,  seemed  more  extraordi- 
nary, as  history  attests  the  strong  and  too  well  founded  jealousy 
of  the  Dutch,  in  respect  to  their  Stadtholders. 

The  palace  is  very  old,  and  more  remarkable  for  its  venera- 
ble aspect  than  elegance.  The  great  saloon  is  in  the  antique 
style,  and  filled  with  historical  paintings  and  trophies  of 
their  victories.  The  chamber  of  the  States  General  was  hung 
upon  one  side  with  rich  tapestry,  ornamented  by  the  portraits 
of  several  Stadtholders,  and  on  the  other  side  by  many  excel- 
lent paintings.  The  chamber  in  which  the  twelve  years'  truce 
was  established  between  Spain  and  Holland,  in  1609,  still 
retained  its  original  ornaments ;  the  republic  was  personified  by 
a  female  figure,  occupying  aposition  over  the  mantel.  In  the 
audience  room  there  was  a  fine  portrait  of  William  HI.  The 
Prince's  cabinet,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  court,  was  proba- 
bly one  of  the  most  striking  curiosities  at  the  Hague.  The 
collection  embraced  among  other  objects  of  interest,  ve  y  curi- 
ous and  beautiful  specimens  of  precious  stones,  fossils,  minerals, 
petrefactions,  and  every  department  of  inanimate  natural  his- 

14 


210  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

tory.  The  gallery  of  paintings,  embracing  sacred  and  histori- 
cal pieces,  landscapes,  and  portraits — principally  the  works 
of  Raphael,  Rubens,  Holbein  and  Van  Dyke — was  eminently 
interesting,  and  demanded  the  closest  examination. 

The  celebrated  De  Witts,  two  patriotic  brothers,  and  ene- 
mies to  the  aspirations  of  the  Prince  of  Orange,  w^ere  massa- 
cred in  a  prison  near  this  palace,  by  an  infuriated  mob.  Mr. 
Adams  conducted  me  to  the  spot,  and  warmly  execrated  this 
dark  event  in  the  history  of  Holland. 

The  canal  between  the  Hague  and  Leyden  is  fifty  feet  wide. 
The  country,  rich  in  culture  and  loveliness,  is  equal  to  that  I 
had  already  crossed  over.  Leyden  is  distinguished  for  the 
terrific  siege  (one  of  the  most  tragic  in  the  annals  of  war),  it 
maintained  against  the  Duke  of  Alva.  The  city  was  ulti- 
mately relieved  by  the  bold  and  desperate  expedient  of  opening 
the  dykes,  by  which  the  country  was  immediately  inundated. 
Leyden  is  second  only  to  Amsterdam  in  population.  The 
city  was  well  laid  out,  adorned  with  trees,  and  traversed  by 
elegant  streets  and  spacious  canals. 

The  Stadthouse  is  an  ancient  structure,  built  in  the  pure 
Dutch  architecture.  We  noticed  many  superior  pictures  in  it, 
and  were  struck  with  the  peculiar  appropriateness  of  one, 
representing  the  relief  of  the  city  from  the  siege  referred  to,  by 
boats  ladened  with  provisions,  approaching  it  over  the  artificial 
sea,  formed  by  the  inundation.  I  visited  at  Leyden,  with  deep 
and  thrilling  emotion,  the  humble  church  where  the  Puritans 
worshipped,  before  their  emigration  to  Plymouth.  The  build- 
ing is  old  and  inelegant,  but  I  viewed  it  with  greater  satisfac- 
tion than  a  palace.  The  deacon  of  the  church,  who  accom- 
panied me  to  the  edifice,  remarked  that  Mr.  Adams,  when 
visiting  it,  was  deeply  affected,  and  could  not  refrain  from 
weeping.  A  descendant  of  the  Pilgrims  should  not  stand  with- 
in these  consecrated  walls,  without  yielding  the  homage  of  his 
tearful  veneration. 

I  owed  to  the  letters  of  Mr.  Adams  the  most  marked  kind- 
ness from  Mons.  Luzac,  a  very  eminent  lawyer,  but  more 
distinguished  still  for  his  remarkable  abilities  as  a  political 


211 

writer,  and  editor  of  the  Leyden  Gazette.  In  returning  from 
Mens.  Luzac's,  along  the  line  of  the  canal,  about  eleven  at 
night,  I  was  astonished  to  notice  the  repose  and  silence,  almost 
that  of  the  country,  which  rested  upon  this  quiet  city. 

Leyden  yielded  alone  to  Amsterdam  in  importance.  It  then, 
however,  contained  only  40,000  population.  Mons.  Luzac 
informed  me  that  it  formerly  was  computed  to  embrace  70,000. 
The  increase  of  the  woollen  manufactories  of  England  had 
greatly  depressed  its  prosperity.  This  city  was  strongly  forti- 
fied, and  surrounded  by  a  broad  ditch,  which  is  adorned  with 
rows  of  trees.  The  edifices  were  elegant,  die  streets  spacious 
and  clean.  The  principal  avenue,  which  stretches  from  the 
Hague  gate  to  the  Utrecht  gate,  the  entire  length  of  the  city, 
was  elevated,  finely  paved,  and  without  a  canal.  Most  of  the 
other  streets  had  canals  running  along  their  centres,  orna- 
mented, as  usual  in  this  country,  by  lofty  trees,  standing  occa- 
sionally in  three  parallel  rows.  This  arrangement  gave  to  the 
canals  the  aspect  and  effect  of  long  alleys  in  a  beautiful 
garden.  The  city  is  built  on  the  old  Rhine,  which  divides 
it  into  fifty  islands,  thirty  of  which  may  be  sailed  around  by 
boats.  It  had  one  hundred  and  forty-five  stone  bridges,  and 
forty-two  towers  on  its  walls.  The  Stadthouse  is  a  large 
structure,  built  in  1597,  in  the  pure  Dutch  architecture. 

The  large  church  of  Leyden  is  a  vast  pile,  with  no  particu- 
lar beauty  or  interest,  except  as  it  contains  a  monument  of 
great  beauty  and  simplicity,  raised  to  consecrate  the  memory 
of  the  illustrious  physician  and  distinguished  philosopher, 
Boerhaave.  The  reputation  of  this  great  man  extended  into 
China,  and  the  tradition  at  Leyden  asserts  that  a  Mandarin 
addressed  him  with  this  superscription — "  To  Boerhaave  in 
Europe,"  and  that  the  missive  came  duly  to  his  hands.  The 
monument  erected  to  him  in  the  church  of  St.  Peter,  bears  the 
inscription,  "  Salatifero  Boerhaave  genio  sacrum."  It  is  formed 
by  an  urn,  resting  upon  a  pedestal  of  black  marble,  which 
represents  the  four  ages  of  life,  and  two  of  the  sciences  in  which 
Boerhaave  excelled.  The  capital  of  the  base  is  decorated  by 
a  drapery  of  white  marble,  in  which  is  exhibited,  by  the  artist, 


212  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION ; 

emblems  of  diseases  and  their  remedies.  Above,  upon  the 
pedestal,  is  the  medallion  of  Boerhaave;  at  the  extremity  of 
the  same,  a  ribbon  displays  his  private  motto,  "  Simplex,  vigil- 
lum,  veri." 

I  visited  an  old  castle,  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  called  the 
Burg,  which  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  the  ninth  century. 
It  is  more  than  six  hundred  feet  in  circumference.  We 
ascended  by  fifty  steps  to  the  summit,  from  which  we  enjoyed 
an  expanded  and  delightful  view  of  the  city  and  the  adjacent 
country,  the  Downs  and  Haarlem  lake.  Within  the  Burg,  a 
well  has  been  constructed,  of  vast  depth,  in  which,  the  annals 
of  the  city  aver,  the  inhabitants,  during  the  memorable  siege, 
caught  a  large  fish,  which  they  in  triumph  exhibited  from  the 
walls  to  the  Spaniards. 

The  university  of  Leyden  possesses  great  eminence,  and  is 
the  principal  Institution  of  learning  in  Holland.  It  was  found- 
ed in  1575  by  the  States,  as  a  tribute  of  gratitude  for  the  glori- 
ous defence  of  the  city.  The  building  is  antiquated.  The 
Professors  are  probably  among  the  most  distinguished  in 
Europe.  The  botanical  garden  attached  to  the  University, 
with  its  statues,  the  cabinet  of  natural  curiosities,  the  library, 
anatomical  preparations,  and  petrified  remains,  are  all  highly 
interesting.  In  the  garden  we  saw  the  American  aloe,  the  tea 
and  coffee  plants.  This  University  enjoyed  great,  and  some 
singular  privileges,  even  the  infliction  of  death ;  but  the  Pro- 
fessors are  subordinate  to  the  government  of  Holland.  The 
manufactories  of  this  place  were  formerly  very  extensive, 
especially  in  broadcloths,  which  tbey  possessed  the  secret  of 
dyeing  in  great  perfection.  Their  fabrics  also  embraced  nar- 
row cloths  and  camlets.  A  peculiarity  of  manner  and  feeling 
is  said  to  characterize  tlie  middle  classes  of  the  Dutch.  Their 
sensibilities  are  keen,  their  manners  quiet  and  serious ;  they 
can  suffer  neither  a  jest  nor  a  compliment — the  first,  their 
jealousy  construes  into  an  insult ;  the  last  confuses  them.  They 
seldom  laugh,  and  never  without  an  adequate  cause.  When 
the  laugh  of  a  company|falls  upon  an  individual,  his  sensibility 
is  always  deeply  affected,  and  is  proclaimed  to  all  by  messengers 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  213 

flying  from  the  heart,  and  bursting  into  a  blaze  upon  the  cheek. 
Such  being  the  effect  of  a  joke  in  Holland,  surely  every  gen- 
erous mind  will  avoid  this  resource  for  amusement,  and  will 
wisely  graduate  his  conduct  here,  as  he  should  in  every  coun- 
try, by  the  prejudices  and  prevailing  customs  of  its  people, 
who  are  prone  to  be  governed  by  some  common  caprice  pecu- 
liar to  themselves. 


214 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Haarlem — Koster— Printing — Faust — Haarlem  Organ — Lake — Am  sterdam 
— Public  Buildings— Spill  House — Rasp  House — Punishment— Sardam 
— Bruck— Utrecht— Political  Excitement— Canal  Travelling— Rhine — 
The  Seven  Provinces — Scheldt — Antwerp— Roads — Country  Manners 
—Holland— Zealand— Friedland— Reflections — Form  of  Government 
— American  Confederacy — Canals. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  were  moving  towards  Haarlem, 
upon  the  smooth  surface  of  another  splendid  canal.  1  cannot 
find  words  of  sufficient  energy  to  express  my  admiration,  and 
the  delightful  influence  upon  my  mind,  excited  by  this  sailing 
above  the  surface  of  this  beautiful,  but  artificial  country.  We 
traversed  a  pleasant  district  between  the  downs  of  Haarlem 
Lake,  on  our  right,  and  the  downs  which  run  parallel  to  the 
ocean  on  the  left.  Within  a  few  miles  of  Haarlem,  the  coun- 
try assumed  a  new  aspect,  and  was  beautifully  diversified  by 
elegant  country-seats,  cottages,  an  extensive  forest,  villages,  and 
charming  views.  It  was  in  this  forest  that  Koster,  an  Alder- 
man of  Haarlem,  as  the  Dutch  allege,  first  suggested  the  inven- 
tion of  printing  with  types,  in  1440.  He  was  rambling,  the 
legend  runs,  carelessly,  and  amusing  himself  in  forming,  with 
his  knife,  letters  upon  pieces  of  wood ;  with  these  he  made 
impressions,  and  from  the  circumstance  derived  the  conception 
of  movable  types.  John  Faust,  a  servant  of  Koster,  stole  the 
types,  and  transported  them  to  Metz,  and  assumed  the  merit  of 
the  discovery.  This  was  the  Doctor  Faustus,  so  familiar  to  the 
minds  of  the  vulgar  in  America,  for  his  reported  league  with  the 
Prince  of  Darkness.  I  saw  at  Haarlem  specimens,  which 
were  carefully  preserved,  of  the  first  essay  Koster  made 
with  his  wooden  types.  A  statue  had  been  erected  to  him, 
with  an  elegant  Latin  inscription,  and  was  standing  in  the 
Town  House  of  that  city. 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSOK.  215 

I  saw  in  the  old  cathedral  at  Haarlem  the  finest  organ  in 
existence,  made  by  the  ingenious  Miiller,  in  1738.  It  is  a 
stupendous  work,  as  vast  in  its  dimensions  as  it  is  ingenious  in 
its  execution  and  contrivance,  containing  eight  thousand  pipes 
the  largest  of  which  is  sixteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  thirty- 
eight  feet  long.  It  combines  sixty-eight  stops.  This  organ 
imitates,  with  admirable  accuracy,  the  human  voice,  both  solos 
and  in  chorus,  various  kinds  of  birds,  trumpets,  fifes,  flutes,  and 
the  kettle-drum.  The  deep-toned  flourish  of  trumpets  is  suc- 
ceeded by  the  softer  notes  of  gentler  instruments,  and  then  sinks 
into  the  melodious  harmony  peculiar  to  the  organ  itself.  Its 
power  and  the  variety  of  its  tones  are  most  wonderful.  The 
instrument  is  played  twice  a  week  for  the  gratification  of  the 
citizens  and  strangers,  and  on  other  occasions  by  paying  gra- 
tuities to  the  performers.  There  are  two  silver  bells  upon  the 
church,  which  were  captured  by  the  famous  Braakel,  at  Dami- 
etta.  There  were  three  small  ships  suspended  on  the  inside 
of  the  buildings,  with  saws  adjusted  to  their  sterns,  to  com- 
memorate the  sawing  of  the  chain  across  the  Nile,  an  incident 
I  have  already  referred  to.  Bullets  were  exhibited  to  me 
which  were  cut  out  from  the  ceiling,  into  which  they  had  been 
fired  by  the  Spaniards,  during  the  terrific  siege  the  city  sus- 
tained in  1572,  against  the  Duke  of  Alva's  army.  The  city 
was  gallantly  defended  on  that  occasion  by  4,000  troops, 
heroically  supported  by  the  women,  but  were  obliged  by  famine 
ultimately  to  surrender,  when  2,000  persons,  in  infamous  viola- 
tion of  the  terms  of  the  capitulation,  fell  victims  to  Spanish 
barbarity. 

The  architecture  of  Haarlem,  and  the  arrangement  of  the 
streets,  assimilate  it  to  Leyden.  The  population  had  decreased 
from  50,000  to  30,000.  The  Irish  formerly  sent  immense 
quantities  of  linen  to  this  place  to  be  bleached,  the  water  of 
Haarlem  Lake  being  esteemed  peculiarly  favorable  to  this  pro- 
cess. The  fields  in  this  vicinity  were  as  white  with  linen, 
spread  upon  them  for  bleaching,  as  our  American  meadows 
are  after  a  snow-storm.     Haarlem  Lake  is  about  fourteen  miles 


216  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF   THE   EE VOLUTION  ; 

square,  and  was  formed  by  an  inundation  three  centuries 
before.  This  appalHn^  catastrophe  overwhelmed  seventy-two 
villages  in  its  flood,  with  a  frightful  destruction  of  life  and 
property.  This  body  of  water  would  be  ranked  scarcely  above 
the  ponds  of  America,  and  yet  the  Hollander  regards  it  with  as 
much  admiration  as  the  American  esteems  his  Lake  Superior, 
which  would  embrace  several  republics  like  Holland  upon  the 
area  of  its  bosom.  Between  Haarlem  and  Amsterdam  we 
crossed  a  narrow  causeway  which  separated  the  river  Wye 
from  Haarlem  Lake,  and  we  had  from  its  summit  a  full  view  of 
the  lake  and  river,  with  the  stately  palace  Zwanenberg.  From 
the  causeway  to  Amsterdam,  the  course  of  the  canal  was 
direct,  enabling  us  to  see  the  city  the  entire  distance.  I  was 
disappointed  in  the  approach  to  Amsterdam — nothing  of 
interest  was  presented,  while  the  stench  from  the  stagnated 
water  of  the  canals  was  excessively  offensive. 

The  harbor  of  this  commercial  metropolis  presented  a  forest 
of  shipping,  but  far  inferior  to  that  upon  the  Thames.  The 
magnificent  docks  contained  several  new  ships  of  war  of  the 
largest  dimensions,  and  some  old  ones.  These  ships  are  con- 
veyed in  and  out  of  these  artificial  docks,  and  quite  to  the  TexeL 
by  the  agency  of  very  curious  and  ingenious  machines,  which 
receive  the  hull  of  the  vessel  within  their  bodies,  and  thus 
securely  transport  them.  These  machines  are  appropriately 
called  "camels." 

Amsterdam  stands  upon  the  river  Wye,  near  the  Zuyder 
Zee,  and  contained  at  that  time  about  300,000  inhabitants- 
The  number  of  dwellings  was  equal,  and  they  were  of  the 
same  size,  as  those  of  Paris,  although  the  inhabitants  were  on® 
half  less.  This  city  was  scarcely  known  in  the  thirteenth 
century,  and  owes  its  subsequent  rise  and  magnificence  to  the 
flood  of  population  which  poured  into  it  from  Antwerp  during 
the  civil  commotion.  It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  crescent^ 
and  was  well  fortified  with  a  strong  wall  and  bastions.  The 
ditch  which  encompassed  it  formed  a  spacious  canal,  em  bel 
lished  by  a  double  row  of  trees.  It  was  esteemed  hardly  second 
to  London  in  the  extent  and  value  of  its  commerce,  although 


217 

then  conceded  to  be  upon  the  wane.  More  than  two  thousand 
ships,  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe,  annually  enter  the  Wye. 
The  shallowness  of  the  Zuyder  Zee  is  a  serious  embarrassment 
to  this  commerce,  but  it  effectually  protects  the  city  from 
naval  enemies.  Amsterdam  is  built  on  the  site  of  a  salt 
marsh.  Its  edifices  principally  stand  upon  piles  prepared  at 
an  enormous  expense.  Thirteen  thousand  piles  were  required 
to  create  the  foundation  of  the  Stadthouse.  The  streets  are 
usually  wide  and  well  paved  ;  canals  are  constructed  through 
the  centre  of  many  of  them.  The  vista  of  stately  and  um- 
brageous trees  which  uniformly  almost  bordered  the  canals  in 
the  cities  of  Holland,  communicates  to  the  scenery  a  beauti- 
ful and  agreeable   feature. 

The  squares  of  Amsterdam  were  small  and  inelegant.  The 
Stadthouse  stands  upon  the  most  considerable  of  them.  This 
edifice  was  a  noble  structure,  and  the  principal  object  of  beauty 
and  attraction  in  the  city.  It  is  282  feet  long,  235  wide,  and  116 
feet  high,  constructed^of  hewn  stone  at  an  expense  of  two  million 
pounds  sterling.  The  material  points  of  interest  in  this  huge 
pile,  are  the  armory,  the  bank,  the  Burgher's  Hall,  and  its  bells 
and  paintings.  The  Hall  is  a  spacious  and  gorgeous  room,  120 
feet  long,  57  broad,  and  90  high,  entirely  built  of  marble.  The 
floor  exhibits  a  representation  of  the  earth  and  heavens,  with  the 
constellations  curiously  inlaid  in  marble.  The  dwelling-houses 
of  Amsterdam  are  chiefly  constructed  of  brick,  and  occasionally 
of  hewn  stone,  but  in  general  they  are  not  so  elegant  as  those 
of  Rotterdam.  The  arsenal  and  the  dock-yard  adjacent, 
which  contained  a  vast  amount  of  naval  stores,  were  worthy 
of  careful  examination.  The  hospitals  and  other  charitable 
institutions  were  very  numerous  in  the  city,  and  highly  import- 
ant. They  supported,  it  was  estimated,  20,000  paupers. 
Every  religion  was  tolerated,  but  Calvinism  predominated. 
Bells  were  allowed  upon  the  churches  of  no  other  denomination. 
Trumpeters  were  maintained  upon  the  steeples  and  towers 
during  the  night,  to  sound  the  alarm  in  case  of  fire.  The 
revenue  of  Amsterdam  was  computed  at  50,000  florins  per 
diem.     Its  trade  extended  to  every  sea,  but  the  most  lucrative 


218  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EE VOLUTION; 

commerce  was  at  this  period  with  the  Indies.  The  chime  on  the 
Stadthouse  was  said  to  be  the  finest  in  Europe.  1  examined 
it  minutely,  and  found  it  truly  a  stupendous  work.  We  remain- 
ed on  the  roof  until  it  sounded "  the  hour,  and  our  ears  were 
almost  stunned  by  the  ponderous  tones.  It  is  similar  to  an 
organ  in  its  mechanism,  and  a  person  can  play  upon  it  with 
equal  facility. 

Among  the  splendid  paintings  in  the  Stadthouse,  I  was  par- 
ticularly impressed  by  one  of  Van  Dyke's,  which  represented 
the  Duke  of  Alva  in  conference  with  the  bourgeois  of  Amster- 
dam before  they  abjured  the  Spanish  yoke.  It  singularly  por- 
trayed that  dark  and  bloody  character  he  afterwards  exhibited, 
combined  with  a  bold  and  martial  expression  of  countenance. 

I  proceeded  to  the  Exchange,  during  the  hours  of  business. 
to  deliver  my  letters  from  Mr.  Adams.  The  room  was  not  so 
large  as  the  Exchange  in  London,  nor  could  it  compare,  in 
neatness  and  elegance,  with  that,  or  the  one  at  Rotterdam.  It 
was  built  of  brick,  and  totally  destitute  of  all  ornamental 
arrangement.  At  "  full-change,"  it  was  completely  crowded. 
I  retired  into  a  corner  to  indulge  my  curiosity,  and  contem- 
plate the  busy  scene.  I  could  compare  it  to  nothing  so  appro- 
priately as  the  glass  bee-house  I  had  recently  examined  at 
Wildman's  garden.  The  latter  was,  in  truth,  the  Amsterdam 
Exchange  in  miniature ;  there  was  the  same  buzzing  sound,  the 
same  eagerness  of  the  bees  to  enter,  the  same  industry  and  ardor 
in  the  accumulation  of  the"^ honey  in  each.  These  active  mer- 
chants are  roaming  abroad  from  flower  to  flower  in  the  wide 
world,  everywhere  sucking  atid  collecting  the  sweets  of  com- 
merce. 

I  have  seldom  read  in  books,  or  heard  in  conversation,  a  par- 
ticular reference  to  the  character  of  Amsterdam,  without 
observing  an  allusion  to  a  singular  institution,  known  as  the 
spill-houses,  or  legalized  brothels,  under  the  license  and  regula- 
tion of  the  police.  The  apology  for  their  creation  is  in  the 
idea  that  they  accomplish  a  protection  to  virtuous  females.  I 
felt  a  curiosity  to  examine  them,  and  under  the  guidance  of  an 
official  of  the  pohce,  visited  one  of  the  most  celebrated.     The 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  219 


spectacle,  however,  was  too  loathsome  and  abhorrent  to  be 
endured,  and  we  remained  but  a  few  minutes.  At  the  door 
we  were  compelled  to  pay  for  a  bottle  of  vinegar,  which  they 
called  wine,  with  the  option  of  drinking  it  or  not.  A  dense 
cloud  of  smoke  enveloped  the  apartment,  which  was  thronged 
by  Jack-tars,  boors,  and.  vulgar  citizens.  We  pressed  our  way 
through  this  assemblage  to  the  farther  extremity  of  the  room, 
where  a  strapping  negro  was  dancing  with  a  spill-house  lady, 
to  the  music  of  an  old  reprobate,  sawing  upon  a  broken  violin. 
The  dancing  was  unique ;  they  seemed  to  slide  heavily  upon 
their  heels,  sailing  along  the  floor  without  either  figure  or  ani- 
mation. There  were  about  forty  of  these  debased  and  wretched 
victims,  arranged  around  the  room  like  so  many  painted  dolls. 
They  presented  to  my  mind  the  idea  of  a  butcher's^shamble, 
where  the  lambs  are  hung  up  for  the  highest  bidder.  Alas, 
poor  humanity,  in  scenes  like  this,  fallen  and  degraded  below 
the  beasts  of  the  field ! 

I  also  visited  the  rasp-house,  a  place  of  punishment  of  great 
celebrity.  I  found  it  an  excellent  institution,  but  with  no 
remarkable  feature.  The  punishment,  in  addition  to  the  con- 
finement, seemed  merely  to  consist  in  their  being  compelled  to 
cut  lignum  vitae  with  a  rasp  saw.  We  were  closely  followed 
during  our  inspection,  and  stunned  by  the  cry  of  "charity, 
charity !" 

Another  curious  mode  of  correction  prevailed  in  Holland  : 
those  who  obstinately  persisted  in  refusing  to  work,  were 
placed  in  a  cistern  with  water  up  to  their  chins,  where  they 
were  fastened  to  a  pump,  and  compelled  by  involuntary  labor 
to  avoid  drowning,  as  the  water  is  made  to  run  in  as  fast  as  it 
is  discharged  by  the  pump. 

I  dined  in  Amsterdam  at  the  house  of  an  eminent  merchant, 
with  a  brilliant  company.  On  leaving  the  hospitable  table  of 
the  wealthy  Dutchman,  we  paid  our  two  florins  to  the  servant 
at  the  door,  with  as  much  precision  as  at  a  table  d'  bote  in 
Paris. .  This  disgraceful  custom  had  been  exploded  only  a  few 
years  before  in  England,  where  it  formerly  cost  a  gentleman  a 
half  guinea  to  dine  with  his  friend. 


220  MEN   AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

I  made  an  excursion  from  Amsterdam  to  Sardam,  which  is 
situated  upon  the  Wye,  six  miles  from  the  former.  The  har- 
bor was  filled  with  shipping,  arranged  with  perfect  order  and 
system.  In  approaching  Sardam  we  perceived  a  battalion  of 
windmills  drawn  up  on  our  front.  This  extraordinary  town 
appears  small,  when  viewed  from  a  distance,  but  I  was  aston- 
ished at  the  deception  in  this  respect,  and  delighted  by  the  pecu- 
liarity of  the  architecture,  and  by  the  arrangement  of  the 
houses,  gardens,  and,  indeed,  of  almost  every  object.  All  were 
strange,  and  indeed  unlike  anything  I  had  before  seen.  Sardam 
is  situated  in  North  Holland,  and  contained  nearly  40,000  in- 
habitants, who  were  conspicuous  for  their  great  wealth.  They 
have  acquired  their  affluence  by  the  wood  trade,  ship-building, 
and  the  operation  of  a  multiplicity  of  curious  mills,  appropriated 
to  the  manufacturing  of  paper,  tobacco,  boards,  &c. 

I  examined  here  a  saw-mill  that  worked  forty  saws  simul- 
taneously by  one  movement.  It  was  intended  to  keep  in  a 
state  of  preparation  timber,  well  seasoned  in  the  ship-yard, 
adequate  to  the  average  construction  of  one  ship  a  week. 
Three  hundred  vessels  were  usually  built  at  Sardam  every  year. 
This  city  looked  like  a  finished  Chinese  palace,  and  realized  the 
idea  of  perfect  beauty  and  elegance.  The  buildings  were 
small,  but  unique,  and  universally  beautiful.  They  were  paint- 
ed in  various  colors,  and  had  their  roofs  constructed  of  glazed 
tiles.  Handsome  porticos  spread  in  front  of  their  dwellings, 
with  gardens  arranged  with  a  magnificence  and  skill  that 
cannot  be  described,  which  extended  very  far  in  the  rear, 
Sardam  covers  a  large  area.  The  canals  run  along  the  streets 
in  every  direction,  bordered  on  each  side  by  long  chains  of 
these  fairy  houses.  Rambling  for  hours  with  unabated  de- 
light through  this  charming  place,  we  were  at  length  conduct- 
ed to  the  small  house  in  which  Peter  the  Great  boarded  among 
the  common  operatives,  the  most  faithful  and  laborious  man  in 
the  yard,  whilst  he  was  here  practically  learning  the  trade  of 
ship-carpenter.  The  woman  of  the  house  exhibited,  with 
much  exultation,  a  gold  medal  which  had  been  presented  her 
by  the  Empress  of  Russia. 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  221 

The  habits  and  genius  of  the  people  of  North  Holland  are 
strikingly  dissimilar  to  those  of  the  other  province^  and  many 
of  them  are  very  strange  and  peculiar.  They  extend  their  ideas 
of  neatness  to  such  an  excess,  that  I  was  assured  the  master  of 
the  house  was  positively  constrained  by  custom  to  pull  off  his 
shoes  at  his  own  threshold,  where  a  servant  was  placed  pre- 
pared to  supply  him  with  a  pair  of  slippers.  The  front  doors 
of  their  dwellings  were  only  opened  on  occasions  of  deaths 
and  marriages.  The  women  were  strangely  metamorphosed, 
and  totally  unlike  their  more  Southern  sisters  in  their  attire 
and  taste.  Their  heads  were  encircled  by  broad  gold  or 
brass  bands  ;  across  the  forehead  the}^  wore  tight  caps,  with 
the  hair  cut  short  in  front.  Immense  ear-rings  dangled  at  the 
sides  of  their  faces,  which  were  surmounted  by  broad  flat 
calico  hats,  cocked  up  in  the  cir.  Under  all  these  disadvan- 
tages I  saw  many  beautiful  faces ;  but  the  female  figure  was 
generally  bad.  I  noticed  a  remarkable  uniformity  in  their 
features,  that  made  them  all  appear  like  sisters. 

We  extended  our  excursion  to  Bruck,  which,  in  many  re- 
spects, is  even  more  curious  and  impressive  than  Sardam.  In 
beauty  and  style,  as  well  as  cleanliness,  it  was  the  very  model  of 
a  perfect  pity.  It  was  mainly  inhabited  by  merchants  who  had 
retired  from  Amsterdam,  immersed  in  wealth.  Banking  and 
insurance  operations  are  their  peculiar  occupation.  Neither 
carriages  nor  horses  were  allowed  to  enter  the  precincts  of 
this  enchanted  village.  The  streets  were  finely  paved  with 
variegated  stones,  fancifully  marked  in  various  figures,  and 
strewn  lightly  over  with  sand,  as  carefully  as  the  inside  of  their 
houses.  Everything  we  saw  glittered  so  strongly  in  neatness, 
that  our  eyes  were  fairly  pained  in  gazing  upon  them.  This 
people  are  represented  as  exceedingly  coy  of  strangers,  and  as 
usually  intermarrying  among  themselves.  On  our  return  to 
Amsterdam  we  were  overtaken  by  a  severe  thunder  storm, 
and  about  a  hundred  passengers  were  crowded  together  in  the 
dark,  beneath  the  hatches.  Even  Dutch  phlegm,  in  such  a 
situation,  yielded  to  merriment  and  frolic.  A  Dutch  Jew  in 
the  boat  had  a  peculiar  talent  of  imitating  the  crying  of  a  child, 
with  an  empty  pipe.     This  he  did  with  the  nicest  perfection, 


222  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF   THE   KEVOLUTION ; 

whenever  the  curtains  were  dropped.  Every  one  supposing 
a  child  to  be  in  the  canal,  thrust  out  their  heads  into  the  rain, 
when  the  crying  would  instantly  cease,  and  we  hunted  in 
vain  for  the  sufferer.  This  artifice  was  repeated  several 
times  before  we  detected  the  imposture. 

I  left  Amsterdam  on  board  a  truckschute  for  Utrecht,  and  in 
nine  hours  reached  that  city,  a  progress  of  twenty-three  miles. 
We  traversed  a  beautiful  country,  more  profusely  occupied  by 
elegant  country-seats  and  villas  than  I  had  seen  in  any  part  of 
Holland,  especially  as  we  approached  Utrecht,  where  we  saw 
a  continuous  series  of  splendid  residences,  some  exhibiting  the 
gorgeousness  and  magnificence  of  palaces. 

Utrecht  occupies  a  small  natural  elevation,  and  was  esteem- 
ed a  healthy  city.  It  is  rendered  conspicuous  in  history  for 
the  celebrated  treaty  in  1579,  which  cemented  the  union  of 
the  Seven  Provinces.  It  contained  between  20,000  and  30,000 
population.  Party  spirit  was  highly  exasperated  in  the  city. 
The  citizens  were  arming  and  exercising  in  military  evolu- 
tions, preparing  to  oppose  the  Prince  of  Orange,  whose  party 
denounced  these  movements  as  rebellious,  and  instigated  by  a 
French  faction.  The  citizens  were  so  deeply  hostile  to  Eng- 
land, that  it  was  almost  dangerous  for  an  Englishman  to  ap- 
pear in  the  streets.  Martial  excitement  beat  high  in  every 
vein.  My  mind  revolted  at  the  thought  that  these  blooming 
fields  might  soon  be  occupied  by  parks  of  bellowing  artillery,  by 
encampments  and  scenes  of  civil  war,  in  which  kindreds  would 
be  darting  at  each,  other's  bosoms  the  weapons  of  death.  I 
visited  the  ruins  of  the  old  Cathedral,  the  centre  of  which  had 
fallen,  but  the  tower  remained.  I  saw  here  a  monument  of 
a  Bishop,  with  several  others  in  basso-relievo,  the  heads  of 
which  had  been  battered  off  during  the  harsh  religious  persecu- 
tions which  produced  the  revolt  under  Philip  11.  We  ascended 
the  tower,  which  is  three  hundred  and  seventy  feet  high.  From 
this  elevation  the  view  stretched  far  over  the  Low  Country,  the 
Downs,  Haarlem  Lake  and  the  Zuyder  Zee.  The  atmosphere 
was  hazy,  and  thus  limited  our  horizon.  I  was  informed  that  in 
a  clear  day  fifty  walled  cities  might  be  comprehended  in  one 
view  from    this  summit.      The  country  in  the    vicinity    of 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  223 

Utrecht  appeared  like  a  broad  and  unbroken  garden.  The 
wind  blew  a  gale,  and  I  was  almost  apprehensive  that  the 
crazy  old  tower,  which  had  withstood  sieges  and  tempests  for 
almost  a  thousand  years,  would  at  length  tumble  down  and 
bury  me  in  its  ruins.  The  teirific  roar  of  the  wind  through  the 
hollow  arches,  and  amid  the  ruins  of  the  old  church  beneath 
us,  was  calculated  to  excite  these  emotions.  I  hastened  down 
and  proceeded  to  visit  the  University.  A  celebrated  garden 
next  attracted  my  attention,  which  belonged  to  a  Mad.  Van 
Mollem.  It  was  constructed  on  a  magnificent  plan,  and  seem- 
ed to  embrace  every  object  that  can  render  such  a  spot  curi- 
ous and  delightful.  It  was  copiously  adorned  by  cascades 
variously  arranged,  grottos,  statues,  vases,  and  evergreens 
formed  to  represent  innumerable  objects,  -Riid  with  the  utmost 
ingenuity.  Two  grottos,  chiefly  constructed  with  rare  collec- 
tions of  marine  shells,  collected  from  different  parts  of  the  earth, 
were  formed  in  unrivalled  taste  and  beauty,  at  an  expense,  we 
were  informed,  of  ten  thousand  pounds  each  .  Near  this  garden 
a  silk  manufactory  was  established,  and  constructed  nearly 
upon  the  plan  of  the  one  at  Derby,  which  I  have  described.  A 
single  water-wheel,  which  is  a  marked  curiosity  in  Holland, 
propelled  the  entire  machinery. 

The  Mall  of  Utrecht  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  Europe. 
It  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  enclosed  by  four 
double  rows  of  lofty  and  venerable  trees.  When  Louis  XIV. 
seized  the  city  in  1672,  he  gave  special  instructions  for  the 
preservation  of  this  delightful  promenade.  Utrecht  possessed 
no  particular  curiosities  or  imposing  public  edifices. 

On  my  departure  from  Amsterdam  I  had  embraced  in  my 
contemplated  movements  a  tour  through  Saxony  and  West- 
phalia, that  I  might  see  and  pay  my  homage  to  the  immortal 
Frederic ;  but  I  received  letters  at  Utrecht  which  compelled 
me  to  retrace  my  steps,  and  hasten  to  London.  I  embarked 
in  a  truckschute  for  Leyden,  and  the  first  time  since  my  arri- 
val in  Holland  found  my  French  unintelligible  to  all  on  board. 
I  occupied  a  cabin  alone,  but  wandered  into  the  smoke  and 
crowd  of  the  boat  in  search  of  society,  and  after  a  vain  pursuit 
returned    to  my   seclusion,    and   spent   the   night   upon   the 


22  i  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EiEVOLUTION  ; 

cushioned  benches,  reading,  sleeping,  and  contemplating  the 
country  through  the  cabin  windows,  by  a  glowing  moonlight. 
We  travelled  upon  the  canal  to  the  city  of  Worden,  where 
we  entered  a  branch  of  the  Rhine,  and  yielded  the  boat  to  its 
gentle  current.  We  descended  the  river  in  this  pleasant  and 
luxurious  manner,  passing  many  beautiful  residences,  and 
through  a  charming  country,  until  we  reached  Leyden.  I 
was  charmed  with  this  mode  of  travelling — the  wide  river, 
the  clear  and  pure  water,  the  splendid  scenes  afforded  by  the 
adjacent  country,  viewed  through  the  trees,  which  lined  the 
shores  of  the  stream,  by  the  moonlight  beaming  upon  it. 
Hastily  passing  through  Leyden  to  embark  upon  the  Delft 
canal,  I  perceived  some  of  the  bourgeoise  under  arms  at  the 
Stadthouse,  and  understood  that  the  antagonistic  parties, 
since  my  visit  to  the  city,  had  had  a  slight  conflict. 

The  Seven  Provinces  which  constituted  the  Eepublic  of  Hol- 
land, and  once  attracted  the  gaze  and  admiration  of  the  world, 
were  Holland,  Zealand,  Friesland,  Guelderland,  Overyssel, 
Groningen  and  Utrecht.  They  embraced  an  area  of  about 
150  miles  wide  and  100  miles  broad,  including  the  Zuyder  Zee 
and  Haarlem  Lake.  The  surface  of  water  they  contained, 
combined  with  the  numerous  canals  and  rivers,  make  it 
doubtful  whether  the  land  or  water  occupies  the  greatest  space 
within  the  boundary  of  the  country.  Travelling  was  cheaper 
at  the  period  of  my  tour,  in  Holland,  than  in  any  other  region 
I  had  visited.  The  ordinary  disbursement  did  not  exceed  one 
penny  sterling  the  mile.  The  level  and  depressed  face  of  the 
country,  often  lower  than  tide  water,  creates  the  impression 
upon  the  traveller's  mind  that  it  has  been  wrested  from  the 
dominion  of  the  ocean,  and  that  he  may,  at  some  period, 
resume  his  empire,  seems  almost  probable  from  the  frightful 
events  which  appear  in  the  history  of  the  country.  The 
heavy  and  moist  atmosphere  that  envelops  Holland  is  undoubt- 
edly healthy  to  the  acclimated  inhabitants.  Their  winters  usu- 
ally commence  in  October,  and  terminate  in  March.  The 
summers  are  generally  hot,  short,  and  subject  to  severe 
changes.  The  estimates  of  the  population  were  extremely  dis- 
cordant, but  from  the  best  data  I  could   procure,   it  did  not 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  225 

exceed  two  and  a  half  millions,  and  was  evidently  on  the  de- 
cline. This  fact  is  chiefly  attributable  to  the  insensible  but 
progressive  decline  in  their  manufactures,  which  naturally 
bore  with  it  a  depression  in  their  commerce.  More  luxurious 
living  and  less  industry  than  characterized  their  lofty  spirited 
ancestors,  were  regarded  as  other  causes  of  this  declension. 
Those  who  assume  to  pry  deeply  into  the  future,  predicted  the 
total  annihilation  of  the  Republic  as  an  independent  power. 
They  remarked  that  should  the  Emperor  of  Germany  persevere 
in  his  wise  and  ambitious  design  of  opening  the  Scheldt,  and 
reviving  the  commerce  of  Antwerp  (once  the  Emporium 
and  commercial  glory  of  Europe),  it  must  inevitably  tend  to 
accelerate  the  fall  of  Holland.  The  Scheldt  is  a  noble  river, 
and  is  capable  of  admitting  ships  of  any  burthen  quite  up  to 
the  city,  which  had  also  secure  access  to  the  North  Sea,  and 
a  communication  with  the  Rhine,  Meuse  and  Lis.  In  the 
event  of  this  navigation  being  restored,  a  doubt  was  not  en- 
tertained that  Antwerp  would  regain  its  former  splendor.  As 
Amsterdam  had  arisen  to  opulence  on  the  ruins  of  Antwerp, 
it  was  regarded  as  possible  that  the  latter  might  be  restored 
to  prosperity  by  the  decline  of  the  former. 

The  main  spring  of  Dutch  wealth  existed  in  the  East  India, 
and  chiefly  in  the  spice  trade  ;  and  in  this  they  were  considered 
then  in  great  danger  of  meeting  formidable  competitors  and  rivals. 

The  canals  in  Holland  were  so  generally  used  that  the  roads 
were  neglected,  and  almost  uniformly  bad.  No  regular  post- 
coaches  existing,  travellers  were  compelled  to  use  wagons, 
and  the  charges  of  these  not  being  regulated  by  law,  they  were 
subjected  to  every  imposition  and  extortion.  The  country 
was  curious  because  it  resembled  no  other ;  but  a  continued 
uniformity  soon  cloys  the  mind  of  a  traveller,  although  the 
objects  he  views  are  pleasant  and  beautiful.  After  seeing  one 
city  of  Holland,  you  may  form  a  pretty  accurate  idea  of  the  rest. 
The  country,  without  the  walls  of  the  cities,  maintained  the  same 
general  symmetry — a  prolonged  marshy  plain,  thronged  by 
cattle.  The  Dutch,  in  high  hfe,  are  counterparts  of  the  French. 
The  merchant,  and  those  of  that  rank  in  society,  are  esteemed 

15 


226  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION 

more  elegant  and  refined  than  the  English  of  [the  same  class, 
The  Dutch  are  esteemed  a  cold,  phlegmatic,  and  inhospitable 
people,  especially  in  their  intercourse  with  strangers,  but  are 
brave,  frugal,  and  industrious. 

The  province  of  Holland  was  divided  into  North  and  South 
Holland,  and  is  partially  separated  by  the  river  Wye.  The 
customs  and  style  of  life  between  these  divisions  were  very 
unlike.  The  province  of  Holland  exhibited  an  entirely  flat 
surface,  except  the  downs  along  the  sea-coast.  The  soil  is 
light.  In  November,  the  country,  particularly  North  Holland, 
is  almost  submerged.  Few  objects  appear  above  the  waste  of 
waters,  but  dykes,  steeples,  and  buildings.  The  inhabitants,  at 
this  season,  seemed  almost  like  amphibious  animals.  These 
inundations,  after  fertilizing  the  fields,  are  drawn  off  in  Febru- 
ary. The  process  is  accomplished  by  machinery  worked  by 
windmills  which  discharges  the  water  with  great  rapidity  into 
the  canals.  The  country  is  protected  from  the  sea  by  artifi- 
cial dykes  and  the  downs.  They  had  little  arable  land.  The 
meadows  afford  fine  grazing  for  the  vast  flocks  of  cattle  which 
covered  them.  Holland  is,  indeed,  a  wide-spread  meadow,  inter- 
sected by  rivers,  lakes,  and  canals,  which  are  profusely  stored 
with  fish. 

The  commerce  of  Holland  once  knew  no  limits  but  the  confines 
of  the  globe.  It  had  no  grain  of  its  own  culture,  but  was  the 
granary  of  Europe — no  vinej^ards,  but  it  supplied  Europe  with 
the  choicest  wines.  It  had  no  staple  of  its  own  production,  but 
supplied  in  its  own  ports  every  commodity  cheaper  than  any 
other  nation.  Such  are  the  energies  and  effects  of  industry 
and  enterprise.  But  alas,  poor  Holland!  thy  sun  had  passed 
its  meridian  splendor,  and,  as  in  a  long  summer's  day,  it  was 
slowly  approaching  the  horizon.  In  power  and  wealth,  Hol- 
land equalled  all  the  other  six  provinces. 

The  province  of  Zealand  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Scheldt,  and  is  divided  into  eleven  islands  by  that  river.  It  is 
entirely  protected  from  the  sea  by  dykes,  which  are  main- 
tained at  an  enormous  expense.  The  land  lies  low,  and  is  sub- 
ject to  frequent  inundations.  It  was  reputed  to  be  more 
fertile,  but  less  healthy  than  Holland.     The  inhabitants  car- 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  227 

ried  on  extensive  herring  fisheries,  principally  upon  the  coast 
of  England.  Their  fisheries  are  an  admirable  nursery  of  sea- 
men, and  a  source  of  great  wealth.  It  surprised  me  that  so 
enterprizing  a  people  as  the  English,  should  permit  their  great 
commercial  rivals  to  monopolise  this  immense  business  on  the 
very  shores  of  England.  The  people  of  Zealand  possessed  few- 
manufactories. 

Friedland  is  the  most  northern  province.  The  soil  is  gen- 
erally very  fertile.  In  some  sections  it  was  sparsely  inhabited. 
It  produced  considerable  grain,  and  possessed  very  superior 
horses,  cows,  and  sheep.  The  latter  were  peculiar  for  their 
long  and  soft  wool.  Occasional  forests  occurred,  which  were 
filled  by  great  quantities  of  wild  fowl.  Their  commerce  was 
extensive.  Their  linens  were  highly  esteemed.  The  people 
of  this  province  had  preserved,  in  an  eminent  degree,  the 
habits  and  customs  of  their  ancestors.  The  remaining 
provinces  were  less  important,  and  similar  to  the  others 
in  their  general  physical  features,  and  the  characteristics  of 
their  people. 

The  following  remarks  and  reflections  upon  the  government 
and  prospects  of  Holland,  as  they  existed  at  that  period,  I  have 
deemed  proper  to  preserve,  although  the  whole  fabric  has, 
since  they  were  written,  been  swept  away  in  the  overwhelm- 
ing tide  of  change  and  revolutions.  Each  province,  in  most  of 
its  functions  and  prerogatives,  was  independent  of  the  others, 
while  many  of  the  cities  possessed  powers  and  immunities 
independent  of  the  provinces  in  which  they  were  situated. 
Their  "  High  Mightinesses,"  or  Deputies  of  the  States  General, 
could  neither  make  war  nor  conclude  peace  without  the  con- 
currence of  every  State  represented  by  Deputies  in  the 
General  Assembly.  In  this  the  people  were  most  unequally 
represented.  Thus  the  province  of  Overyssel  exercised  the 
same  voice  as  Holland,  the  latter  paying  half  the  expenses  of 
the  Union.  And  the  little  city  of  Purmeren  enjoyed  the  same 
power  as  Amsterdam,  which  bore  half  the  financial  burdens  of 
the  whole  province. 

The  States  General  assembled  regularly  four  times  a  year  at 
the  Hague,  and  in  case  of  emergency  were  convened  at  any 


228 


time  by  the  Council  of  State.  One  negative  arrested  a  deci- 
sion. This  power  often  produced  tedious  procrastination,  and 
disastrously  clogged  the  wheels  of  public  operations.  Hence 
arose  their  slow  and  feeble  efforts  in  the  war  with  England 
which  had  just  terminated.  The  chamber  of  accounts  man- 
aged the  revenues  of  the  Republic.  The  States  General  was 
composed  of  thirty-four  members.  No  Stadtholder,  Governor, 
nor  officer,  could  vote  in  the  National  Assembly.  They 
change  the  President  every  week,  each  Province  supplying  him 
in^  turn.  In  common  cases  the  majority  of  votes  decided  a 
question,  but  in  specified,  extraordinary  matters,  the  vote  must 
be  unanimous.  Five  courts  of  Admiralty  existed,  and  were 
located  at  different  ports.  These  held  the  control  of  naval 
operations,  subject  to  instructions  of  the  Assembly.  The 
powers  and  duties  of  the  Stadtholder  were  merely  those  of 
Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Armies  and  High  Admiral,  and 
were  exercised  in  subordination  to  their  High  Mightinesses. 

The  legislative  authority  of  each  city  was  vested  in  a  Senate 
composed  of  thirty  or  forty  members.  These  held  their  of- 
fices for  life.  A  vacancy  was  filled  by  the  survivors.  The 
Representatives  of  the  several  Provinces  were  chosen  from  this 
Senate.  Practically,  therefore,  the  people  (with  all  their 
boasted  liberty)  had  no  voice  in  the  selection  of  the  power  by 
which  they  were  governed  with  so  much  despotism. 

In  contemplating  the  ponderous  and  complicated  ma- 
chinery of  the  government  of  the  Dutch  Republic,  I  thus  re- 
corded my  sentiments  at  the  time. 

"  1  fear  we  shall  realize  in  our  confederated  system  the  in- 
conveniences and  weaknesses  the  Dutch  experience  under  their 
ill-modelled  government,  which,  whilst  it  seems  to  be  ground- 
ed on  the  basis  of  a  scrupulous  jealousy  of  power,  in  its 
operations  exhibits  the  most  grinding  despotism.  During  the 
external  pressure  of  a  common  enemy,  our  temporary  govern- 
ment answered  all  the  purposes  for  which  it  had  been  or- 
ganized; but  now  that  weight  is  removed,  every  State  may 
draw  into  itself,  and,  like  the  sensitive  plant,  shrink  from  the 
representative   body   of  the  Union.      Our  Confederacy  em- 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  229 

braces  many  of  the  defects,  without  the  coercive  power 
and  energetic  independence  of  the  Dutch  government.  God 
only  knows  what  will  be  the  end — but  I  dread  to  look  for- 
ward, from  a  deep  conviction  that  we  cannot  long  be  bound 
together  by  the  feeble  ties  which  now  unite  the  States. 
State  will  soon  contend  with  State,  hatred  and  alienation 
will  ensue,  and  perhaps  the  whole  continent  is  destined 
to  be  deluged  in  the  mutual  slaughter  of  Americans,  whilst 
yet  smoking  with  the  blood  of  our  foes.  And  finally,  we 
shall  become  a  prey  to  some  power  of  Europe  ;  or  some 
audacious  Cromwell  will  step  forth  to  impose  despotic  laws 
and  more  than  kingly  protection.  I  cannot,  I  will  not  in- 
dulge in  these  gloom)^  apprehensions,  but  will  rather  hope 
that  the  lofty  anticipations  of  an  admiring  world  will  not  so 
soon  be  blasted,  and  that  the  Providence  which  conducted 
us,  with  so  much  glory,  through  the  Revolution,  will  com- 
bine the  wisdom  of  the  nation  to  devise  a  form  of  government 
that  will  bless  this  and  future  generations." 

The  revenue  of  Holland  amounted  to  almost  twenty-one 
millions  of  florins  per  annum,  and  was  produced  principally 
by  the  Custom  and  Excise  duties,  which  are  so  extended  as 
to  meet  almost  every  article.  Upon  an  emergency,  they  had 
recourse  to  the  hundredth  penny. 

The  naval  armament  consisted  of  seventy  sail  of  all  classes. 
The  army  w^as  composed  of  thirty  thousand  troops. 

The  canals  of  Holland  can  scarcely  be  enumerated,  or  their 
number  computed.  They  traverse  the  country  and  intersect 
each  other  in  every  direction.  They  are  substitutes  for 
roads — the  medium  of  intercourse  in  summer  by  boats, 
and  when  frozen  they  afford  delightful  avenues  for  business 
or  pleasure.  These  canals  were  the  channels  of  an  im- 
mense trade  with  Germany  and  France.  The  proprietors  of 
these  works  derived  a  large  revenue  from  them,  which  is 
estimated  to  average  a  net  annual  income  of  82,500  per 
mile.  The  original  capital  stock  had  ages  before  been  re- 
imbursed. The  canals  of  Holland  usually  require  two  acres 
of  land  for  each  mile ;  those  of  England  an  acre  and  a  half. 


230 


England  embraced,  in  1784,  almost  600  miles  of  artificial  in- 
land navigation,  which  yielded  from  10  to  30  per  cent,  on  its 
stocks. 

The  first  canal  in  that  country  was  constructed  to  convey 
the  New  river  into  London.  The  year  1758  may  be  adopted  as 
the  epoch  of  the  introduction  of  the  policy  into  Great  Britain, 
through  the  agency  of  the  Duke  of  Bridgewater,  and  from  the 
genius  of  Brindley,  who  was  an  accomplished  engineer,  from  the 
instincts  of  nature.  The  canals  of  Holland  possess  a  vast 
advantage  over  those  of  nearly  every  other  country,  from  the 
fact  that  its  low  and  level  surface  almost  universally  exempt 
them  from  the  inconvenience  and  expense  of  locks. 

I  reached  the  packet  at  Helvoetsluys  at  the  moment  of  her 
departure. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  231 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

Land  in  England — Tea  Drinking — Anecdote — Incident — Granville  Sharp 
— Ignatius  Sancho — Homeward  Voyage — Gale — Sailor's  Supersti- 
tion— Land  —  American  Farmer — Discontents  —  Lecture — Home — 
Gen.  Green. 

After  a  tempestuous  passage  of  twenty-four  hours,  we  made 
the  English  coast  near  Yarmouth,  and  ran  along  its  lofty  cliffs 
until  abreast  of  Lestoffe.  The  passengers,  fourteen  in  num- 
ber, were  obliged  to  embark  on  board  an  open  fishing-boat, 
two  miles  from  shore,  in  a  heavy  sea,  and  beneath  dark  and 
threatening  clouds.  We  landed  safely,  however,  amid  a  rolling 
surge,  and  soon  refreshed  ourselves,  and  settled  our  giddy 
heads  with  a  comfortable  dish  of  tea.  I  have  often  experi- 
enced the  salutary  effects  of  this  favorite  herb  after  a  fatiguing 
journey  or  sea-sickness.  It  produces  a  relief  as  effectual 
as  opium  does  in  other  cases.  The  French  use  tea  as  a 
medicine,  the  English,  Dutch  and  Americans,  to  an  infatuated 
extent,  as  a  beverage.  Consumptions  and  bad  teeth  were 
generally  imputed  to  the  excessive  use  of  the  hot  tea.  I  will 
not  assert  the  truth  of  the  theory,  but  it  is  rendered  plausible 
by  the  fact  that  in  Francs  consumptions  are  almost  unknown, 
and  the  teeth  of  the  French  are  generally  fine,  while  in  the 
tea-drinking  countries  that  disease  is  frightfully  prevalent,  and 
the  teeth  of  the  people  are  very  generally  bad. 

On  landing,  we  immediately  started  for  London,  but,  in  the 
absence  of  every  better  vehicle,  w^ere  compelled  to  travel  twenty- 
five  miles  in  a  common  horse-cart,  across  the  country  to  Sexmun- 
dy,  like  so  many  condemned  criminals  on  their  way  to  Ty- 
burn. This  mode  of  travelling  was  novel  in  England,  and 
afforded  us  no  small  amusement,  although  we  were  incommod- 
ed by  the  rain,  and  subjected  to  the  wit  and  ridicule  of  the 
country  people. 


232  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

After  my  return  from  Holland  until  my  departure  for 
America,  in  the  following  August,  I  was  employed  in  the  final 
adjustment  of  my  affairs  and  the  enjoyment  of  the  hospitality 
of  my  friends  in  the  vicinity  of  London. 

A  ludicrous  incident,  which  occurred  during  this  interval, 
afforded  general  amusement  to  the  metropolis  for  the  hour.  A 
newly  arrived  and  verdant  Irish  merchant  requested  a  friend 
to  show  him  Bedlam.  Without  explanation,  he  was  taken  into 
the  midst  of  the  Jews,  at  the  Stock  Exchange,  at  the  height  of 
its  uproar,  who  began  to  hustle  him  as  a  green  duck.  He  rush- 
ed to  his  friend  and  exclaimed  in  a  loud  whisper,  "  They're 
all  loose,  By  J !  and  I  am  off,"  and  rushed  out  of  the  room. 

My  last  adventure  in  London  was  of  a  ridiculous  character, 
but  quite  illustrative  of  EngHsh  habits.  The  day  previous  to 
my  departure,  I  was  on  my  way  to  dinner  with  a  friend,  dress- 
ed according  etiquette,  with  silk  stockings,  powdered  hair,  and 
all  the  other  appliances  of  fashion,  and  was  threading  a  narrow 
lane  near  St.  Paul's,  when  I  detected  a  pick-pocket  in  the  act  of 
flirting  a  handkerchief  from  the  pocket  of  a  gentleman.  On 
such  occasions  custom  had  ordained  a  summary  punishment 
on  the  spot.  The  culprit  was  dragged  to  the  nearest  pump, 
placed  under  it,  and  deluged  with  water  until  half  drowned. 

Indignant  at  witnessing  this  daring  transaction  in  open 
daylight,  I  seized  the  villain  by  the  collar.  In  the  struggle  we 
both  fell  into  the  muddy  gutter.  I  clung  to  him,  and  assisted 
in  holding  him  under  the  pump  until  I  was  completely  drench- 
ed with  mud  and  water. 

The  last  evening  I  spent  in  England  was  in  the  capacious 
library  of  Surgeon  Sharp,  a  man  of  eminence,  and  brother 
of  the  philanthropist  Granville  Sharp,  who  was  a  bachelor  and 
an  inmate  of  his  brother's  house.  I  was,  in  a  manner,  enchained, 
for  several  hours,  by  this  noble  enthusiast  in  the  cause  of 
African  emancipation  and  colonization.  His  ardor  was  so 
intense  that  I  could  not  extricate  myself  from  the  earnest 
outpourings  of  his  devoted  zeal.  With  untiring  effort,  he  had 
secured  a  territory  on  the  coast  of  iVfrica,  which  he  had  nam- 
ed Sierra  Leone,  and  had,  at  his  individual   expense,    fitted 


OH,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  233 

out  an  expedition  bearing  the  first  emigrants,  but  the  ship 
was  unfortunately  lost,  and  all  had  perished.  Still  he  was 
boldly  persevering. 

Mr.  Sharp  confided  two  bundles  of  books  to  my  care,  em- 
bracing his  entire  publications  on  emancipation  and  other 
congenial  topics,  directed  to  Washington,  which  I  subse- 
quently delivered  to  him  at  Mount  Vernon. 

Some  months  before,  while  lounging  in  the  same  library,  I 
had  accidentally  looked  into  a  book,  which  had  riveted  my 
attention.  It  was  an  odd  volume  of  a  work  which  contained 
occasional,  and  chiefly  domestic  letters  of  Ignatius  Sancho,  an 
educated  African.  I  purchased  and  read  the  work,  and  was 
impelled  by  the  interest  it  excited,  to  seek  the  humble  residence 
of  his  widow,  of  whom  be  spoke  with  so  much  deep  affection. 
As  a  pretext  to  cover  the  real  object  of  my  visit,  I  purchased 
a  few  articles  from  her  little  shop,  and  soon  introduced  my- 
self, by  a  reference  to  the  letters,  frankly  confessing  that  my 
call  was  induced  by  sympathy  and  naked  curiosity.  1  entered 
her  dwelling  with  strong  prepossessions  in  her  favor,  which  were 
amply  confirmed  by  her  general  appearance,  the  intelligence  of 
her  conversation,  and  her  warm  sensibilities.  She  showed  the 
original  letters  of  Sancho,  written  with  a  free  and  manly  hand. 
Her  tears  flowed  copiously  in  referring  to  her  deceased  hus- 
band. She  conducted  me  into  a  neat  back  parlor,  prettily 
furnished,  and  introduced  me  to  her  family.  Sancho  was  a 
jet  black  Negro,  and  she  a  Mulatto.  One  of  the  daughters, 
when  we  entered,  was  sitting  at  a  harpsichord,  and  a  white 
gentleman,  in  appearance,  singing  with  her  in  concert.  One 
or  two  other  white  persons  came  in,  and  we  spent  a  pleasant 
hour  in  conversation,  interspersed  with  singing  and  music,  and 
yielded  to  the  females  the  same  respectful  attention  that  we 
should  have  extended  to  white  ladies. — "  And  why  not  V  ex- 
exclaims  the  philanthropist.  The  potent  influence  of  prejudice 
cannot  readily  be  subdued.  A  family  of  cultivated  Africans, 
marked  by  elevated  and  refined  feelings,  was  a  spectacle  I  had 
never  before  witnessed. 

On  the  21st  of  August,  1784,  I  embarked  on  board  the  ship 


234  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  KEVOLUTION  ; 

George  Washington,  Capt.  Smith,  on  my  return  to  America. 
We  weighed  anchor  in  a  stiff  gale  and  threatening  atmos- 
phere, and  by  the  time  we  reached  Godwin  Sands  were  in 
the  midst  of  a  violent  storm,  surrounded  by  breakers,  with  the 
whole  rake  of  the  German  ocean  beating  tremendously  upon 
our  larboard  side.  We  were  running  under  a  reefed  fore- 
sail ;  the  foremast  rocking  and  straining  at  every  plunge. 
The  old  Captain,  with  his  mouth  half  full  of  tobacco,  and  his 
under  jaw  in  constant  motion,  was  discharging  the  tobacco 
juice  in  every  direction.  I  heard  him  say  to  the  mate,  ''if 
the  sail  or  topmast  gives  away,  we  are  gone."  Fortunately 
we  had  a  most  resolute  and  skilful  pilot.  A  man  forward 
critically  watched  the  buoys,  as  we  were  obliged  to  follow  a 
channel  in  the  midst  of  breakers,  the  spray  thick,  the  rain 
pouring  in  nearly  a  horizontal  sheet.  These  obscurities  made 
it  extremely  difficult  to  trace  the  buoys,  by  which  alone 
we  were  guided ;  and  the  failure  of  a  moment  would  probably 
have  caused  our  immediate  destruction.  Happily  we  arrived 
off  Deal  in  safety,  and  there  landed  our  gallant  pilot.  We 
then  steered  directly  before  the  gale  towards  the  Atlantic ;  but 
during  the  night  the  wind  veered  to  the  West,  and  we  were 
detained  for  several  days  beating  about  the  Channel. 

Although  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  contemplate  England, 
the  home  of  my  ancestors,  in  which  I  had  found  much  to  ad- 
mire, and  had  left  many  valued  friends,  without  interest  and 
emotion  ;  yet  I  frankly  confess  my  sensations  were  warmer 
and  deeper,  as  I  viewed  the  hospitable  shore  of  happy,  bright, 
joyous  France. 

During  the  voyage  I  was  involved  in  a  serious  difficulty 
with  our  worthy  skipper,  by  a  most  frivolous  occurrence.  I 
record  the  incident  to  exemplify  the  singular  superstition, 
which  then  prevailed  among  the  most  intelligent  class  of  our 
seamen.  Capt.  Smith  I  had  known  from  my  boyhood,  as  a 
man  of  sense,  and  of  more  than  ordinary  intelligence  and  cul- 
tivation. 

I  had  observed  that  our  cook  was  in  the  habit  of  bringing 
the  egg-shells  on  deck,  and  carefully  breaking  them  into  small 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  235 

pieces,  before  they  were  thrown  into  the  sea.  I  was  persuaded 
there  was  a  hidden  superstition  under  this  singular  practice. 
Determined  to  decide  my  suspicions,  I  one  evening  seized  the 
bowl  containing  the  shells,  and  cast  them  overboard  unbro- 
ken. The  cook  darted  into  the  cabin,  and  in  a  moment  the 
captain  rushed  on  to  the  quarter-deck,  and  approaching  in  a 
menacing  attitude,  abused  me  most  vehemently.  I  could 
hardly  believe  him  in  earnest,  until  I  saw  his  countenance  ac- 
tually distorted  by  rage  and  apprehension.  It  was  casting 
feathers  against  the  wind  to  reason,  and  it  was  dangerous  to 
ridicule.  He  swore  that  he  had  been  to  sea  forty  years,  and 
had  never  known  egg-shells  thrown  whole  into  the  sea,  but 
that  old  bitch,  Mother  Carey,  got  into  them,  and  raised 
a  gale  of  wind.  I  could  scarcely  suppress  a  smile,  and  was 
amazed  that  a  man  of  his  intelligence  and  judgment  should  be 
the  victim  of  such  folly. 

However,  the  second  or  third  night  after,  I  was  aroused  by 
an  unusual  noise  on  deck,  and  the  agitated  motion  of  the  ves- 
sel. The  egg-shells  and  the  captain's  denunciations  flashed 
upon  my  mind.  I  hastened  up  the  companion-way,  and,  by 
the  vivid  flashes  of  the  lightning,  saw  the  sailors  aloft,  striking 
yards  and  topmasts,  preparing  for  a  gale.  The  aspect  was 
most  appalling.  The  Captain  caught  a  glimpse  of  my  face. 
"  There  !"  he  cried,  "  didn't  I  tell  you  so  !" 
We  were  soon  involved  in  all  the  horrors  of  a  hurricane.  At 
dawn  I  crawled  upon  deck,  and  contemplated  the  frightful 
scene.  The  wind  roared  and  whistled  among  the  rigging  and 
blocks,  the  atmosphere  was  black  and  ominous,  the  ocean, 
swollen  into  mountains,  was  fearfully  convulsed — the  rain  was 
dashing  in  torrents.  Our  ship  was  tight  and  sound ;  and,  by 
the  vigilance  of  our  old  Captain,  under  Providence,  we  sur- 
vived the  storm.  To  our  great  joy  the  wind  lulled,  the  clouds 
dispersed,  and  a  bright  sun  gladdened  our  hearts  ;  although  for 
several  hours  after  we  were  exposed  to  a  tremendous  swell, 
which  rolled  our  yards  almost  into  the  water.  What  connec- 
tion existed  between  the  storm  and  the  egg-shells  I  could  not 
determine  ;  but  I  had  reason  to  believe  that  the  coincidence 


236  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

tended  to  confirm  the  faith  of  the  skipper  and  sailors  in  the 
powerful  influence  of  Mother  Carey. 

On  the  30th  of  September  we  struck  soundings,  in  thirty- 
fathoms  water,  off*  the  coast  of  New- Jersey,  as  was  determined 
by  the  coarse  black  gravel,  vvhich  became  attached  to  the  tal- 
low, at  the  bottom  of  our  sounding  lead.  Standing  N.  E.,  on 
the  3d  of  October  we  were  rejoiced  by  the  cry  of  "  Land." 
The  wind  was  in  our  favor,  and  we  ran  along  the  coast  of 
Long  Island,  by  Point  Judith ;  then  passed  Block  Island,  and 
were  soon  in  the  midst  of  the  beautiful  islands  of  Narraganset 
Bay. 

An  absence  of  more  than  five  years,  occupied  in  traversing 
various  sections  of  Europe,  had  much  obscured  the  recollec- 
tion of  the  features  of  my  native  land,  and  familiarized  my 
mind  to  those  of  other  countries.  In  returning  to  America  I 
was  able  to  view  objects  comparatively  with  a  foreign  eye. 
A  clear  blue  sky,  brighter  and  more  numerous  stars,  broad 
fields  of  corn,  wooden  farm-houses,  expanded  forests,  all  varied 
the  scene  from  an  European  landscape,  and  led  me  into  a  wide 
range  of  contemplation.  I  exulted  in  the  comparative  view  of 
Europe  and  America,  although  scarcely  two  centuries  had 
elapsed  since  the  latter  was  the  home  of  the  untutored  Indian 
and  savage  beasts.  I  hoped  to  act  my  humble  part,  in  con- 
tributing to  the  high  destiny  which  I  felt  awaited  my  country. 

Wejdropped  anchor  abreast  of  Warwick  Neck.  The  Cap- 
tain being  anxious  to  forward  his  letters,  I  tendered  my  ser- 
vices, and  was  put  on  shore  about  ten  o'clock  at  night.  I 
wandered  about  with  my  three  sailors,  from  dwelling  to  dwel- 
ling, in  pursuit  of  a  horse,  and  at  length  entered  the  spacious 
yard  of  a  respectable  farm-house.  We  knocked,  and  the  first 
word  I  heard  from  an  inhabitant  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic, 
was  the  well-remembered  salutation,  ''  walk  in."  I  entered  with- 
out ceremony,  at  this  familiar  sound,  the  door  being  without  a 
bolt,  and  discovered,  by  a  momentary  flash,  an  old  man  blow- 
ing up  a  light.  As  the  candle  caught  the  flame,  he  surveyed 
us,  and  "  Sit  down,  sit  down,  my  friends,"  was  his  cordial 
greeting.     "  Where  from  ?" 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF   ELKAKAH    WATSON.  237 

"  London,"  I  replied,  "  and  I  wish  a  horse  to  proceed  to 
Providence." 

"  It  is  too  late,"  he  responded,  "  to-night.  You  are  welcome 
to  a  bed  with  us." 

I  decided  to  embrace  his  kindness,  and  having  dispatched 
the  sailors,  lighted  a  pipe  with  this  hospitable  farmer,  whose 
curiosity  led  him  to  ask  a  thousand  questions,  and  his  wife, 
lying  abed,  in  the  corner  of  the  kitchen,  soon  joined  in  our 
chat.  She  expressed  great  regret  at  not  being  able  to  provide 
me  with  a  warm  supper ;  but  baked  apples,  rye  and  Indian 
bread,  and  a  pan  of  milk,  afforded  the  materials  of  a  delicious 
repast,  and  vividly  recalled  the  recollections  of  my  boyhood. 
I  then  retired  to  a  neat  and  comfortable  bed,  in  a  commodious 
and  well- furnished  room.  "  These,"  I  exclaimed,  as  I  reposed 
my  head  on  the  pillow,  "  are  the  blessings  of  an  independent 
American  farmer !" 

At  early  dawn  all  was  in  motion,  below  and  about  the  house. 
I  arose  also,  and  with  infinite  pleasure  contemplated,  from  my 
chamber  windows,  which  were  nicely  shielded  by  paper  cur- 
tains, a  fine  farm,  in  excellent  order,  and  a  barn-yard  filled  with 
noble  cows,  which  the  boys  and  women  were  engaged  in  milk- 
ing. I  soon  took  my  generous  host  by  the  hand  in  the  farm- 
yard, and  was  expressmg  to  him  my  delighted  emotions  in 
glowing  language,  when,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  he  respond- 
ed with  a  heavy  sigh,  and  evident  marks  of  despondency  and 
discontent. 

"  Oh,  yes,  I  have  a  fine  farm,  well-stocked,  and  owe  nothing  ; 
but  these  horrible  taxes  are  devouring  a  poor  farmer." 

Not  knowing  his  burthens,  although  every  appearance  indi- 
cated that  they  could  not  be  very  severe,  "  Pray,  sir,"  I  in- 
quired, "  how  much  taxes  do  you  pay  in  a  year?" 

"  About  thirty  dollars,"  he  replied,  "  and  before  the  war  they 
did  not  exceed  three  dollars." 

"  Is  it  possible  so  small  a  burthen  can  give  so  much  uneasi- 
ness. You  are  now,  for  thirty  dollars  annually,  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  the  blessings  of  liberty  and  independence.  You  know 
not  hovv  to  prize  the  great  privilege.     Can  you  so  soon  have 


238  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

forgotten  the  common  language  during  the  Revolution,  '  I  will 
sacrifice  half  my  property  to  secure  the  rest.'  I  wish,"  I  con- 
tinued, "  it  had  been  possible  for  every  farmer  in  the  nation  to 
have  passed  over  the  ground  1  have  traversed  the  last  five  years 
in  Europe,  and  witnessed  the  suffering  and  oppression  I  have 
seen  among  the  farmers  there,  governed  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet,  and  even  in  England,  overwhelmed  by  taxes,  tithes, 
and  rents.  They  would  kiss  the  soil  of  America,  and  call  it 
blessed,  and  raise  their  hearts  in  pious  gratitude  to  the  Giver 
of  all  ^good." 

I  was  pleased  to  see  that  my  morning  lecture  had  made  a 
favorable  impression,  and  I  wished  that  I  could  have  uttered  it 
in  the  hearing  of  every  discontented  citizen  of  the  republic. 

I  called  upon  Mr.  Brown  immediately  on  my  arrival  in  Pro- 
vidence ;  but  was  so  much  changed  by  time  and  travel,  that  I 
was  compelled  to  announce  to  him  my  name.  The  same  in- 
cident occurred  a  few  days  after,  with  my  own  father.  I  re- 
mained in  the  vicinity  of  Providence  for  several  weeks,  and 
there  became  familiarly  acquainted  with  Gen.  Green,  second 
alone  in  the  annals  of  our  country  to  Washington  himself,  for  his 
military  exploits  and  fame.  He  favored  me  with  a  letter  of 
introduction  to  his  immortal  chief,  which  was  of  inestimable 
service  in  affording  me  a  delightful  interview  with  him,  at  a 
subsequent  period. 


239 


CHAPTER    XX. 

Passage  to  New- York — Hurl-Gate — New- York — Long-Island — Dr.  Moyes 
— Journey  to  Philadelphia — Robert  Morris — Philadelphia — Journey  to 
Baltimore — Baltimore — Alexandria — Visit  Mt.  Vernon — Washington — 
Falls  of  the  Potomac — Canals — Annapolis — Stage  Sleighs — Journey 
North — Journey  to  North  Carolina — Norfolk — Mode  of  Travelling — 
Interior  of  North  Carolina — Marine  Shells — Mrs.  Ashe  and  Col.  Tarleton 
— Halifax— Warrington — Anecdote — Deer-Hunting — Nutbush  Adven- 
ture— Scotch-Irish — Battle- Ground  of  Guilford. 

On  the  3d  December,  '84,  I  embarked  on  board  a  sloop 
packet,  for  New- York,  with  Rufus  King,  Elbridge  Gerry,  and 
Judge  Sullivan,  on  their  way  to  Congress.  I  record  this  fact, 
to  exhibit  a  striking  illustration  of  the  mode  and  facilities  of 
travelling  existing  at  that  period,  even  upon  so  important  an 
avenue  as  the  direct  route  between  Boston  and  New-York. 
We  were  driven  through  Long  Island  Sound  by  a  furious  gale. 
The  shores  on  both  sides  appeared  in  an  advanced  stage  of  im- 
provement, mingled  with  tracts  of  unreclaimed  forest-land. 
We  passed  Hurl-gate  with  considerable  exposure.  A  short 
canal  on  Long  Island,  with  a  lock,  would  readily  obviate  this 
dangerous  navigation. 

I  landed  in  New- York  for  the  first  time.  It  had  been  deeply 
involved  in  the  sufferings  and  sacrifices  of  a  long  civil  war, 
and  I  was  surprised  to  see,  in  approaching  it,  a  vast  multitude 
of  masts  already  clustered  in  its  docks.  The  elasticity  of  its 
rebound  has  been  truly  wonderful,  and  I  saw  in  it  a  sure  pre- 
sage of  its  ultimate  destiny,  sustained,  as  it  will  be,  bj  the 
vigorous  impulses  of  a  youthful  interior  country,  in  the  full 
glow  of  health,  native  affluence,  and  independence. 

Here  I  remained  a  month,  under  the  roof  of  my  uncle,  John 
Sloss  Hobart.  In  this  interval  I  made  an  excursion  upon  Long 
Island.  At  Brooklyn  I  passed  over  the  scene  of  the  murder- 
ous conflict,  in  1776.  Had  the  British  pressed  their  advan- 
tages on  that  disastrous  day  with  vigor,  Washington's  entir^ 


240  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

army  must  have  been  sacrificed  ;  and  we  should,  probably, 
have  remained  British  Colonies,  for  a  long  term  of  persecution 
and  suffering. 

Hampton  Plains  spread  before  me  hke  a  sea,  without  a  tree 
to  interrupt  the  view  over  the  wide  expanse.  The  pretty  vil- 
lage of  Hampton  stands  upon  its  western  border.  Huntington 
was  then  a  small  village,  with  a  secure  harbor,  from  which 
light  craft  plyed  to  New- York,  bearing  the  produce  of  the 
country.  The  soil  of  this  island  is  light,  requiring,  to  ensure 
successful  culture,  to  be  constantly  replenished  with  manure. 
I  feel  confident  that  the  practice  prevalent  in  Englajid  of  using 
marine  sand,  which  is  transported  some  distance  into  the  in- 
terior, or  salt  itself,  would  be  highly  advantageous  upon  this 
land. 

On  my  return,  I  again  met  in  New- York  the  Blind  Philoso- 
pher, Dr.  Moyes,  with  whom  I  became  acquainted  at  Birming- 
ham. At  his  request  I  conducted  him  to  the  Hudson,  a  little 
north  of  the  Battery,  and  described  the  course  of  the  river. 
He  then  pointed  his  cane  up  the  stream,  desiring  me  to  explain 
the  objects  and  distances  in  that  direction  ;  continuing  to  move 
his  cane  from  point  to  point,  he  inquired  relative  to  every  spot 
with  the  utmost  exactness.  When  this  examination  of  the 
bay  and  river  was  concluded,  he  exclaimed,  "  It  is  the  finest 
harbor,  and  the  most  beautiful  view,  I  have  ever  seen,  and  it 
will  never  be  effaced  from  my  memory !" 

New- York  then  contained  about  1,400  houses,  and  20,000 
population.  The  streets  were  very  irregular,  The  sad  vestige 
of  a  desolating  war  met  the  eye  at  every  point.  In  the  sub- 
sequent tour  from  New- York  to  Philadelphia,  I  passed  over 
and  examined  many  scenes  of  thrilling  interest,  associated 
with  our  recent  history.  We  crossed  the  Hudson  in  an  open 
ferry  boat,  to  Paulus'  Hook ;  and  the  Hackensack  and  the 
Passaic,  upon  the  ice. 

The  first  night  we  spent  at  Newark,  a  handsome  town,  with 
spacious  streets,  bordered  by  rows  of  trees ;  the  contiguous 
country  was  celebrated  for  its  fine  orchards  and  advanced 
culture. 


^R,  MEXtOIRS  OF  EL1S:ANAH  WA^TSON.  241 

Bince  my  return,  I  noticed,  with  regret,  the  general  absence 
•of  that  agricultural  science,  and  high  tillage,  so  characteristic 
of  England. 

The  next  morning  we  proceeded  in  a  stage-sleigh,  and  late 
in  that  evening  reached  Princeton,  and  the  day  after  arrived 
in  Philadelphia.  During  my  sojaarn  in  that  city,  I  dined  with 
Robert  Morris.  He  lived  in  great  splendor,  and  bore  upon 
his  marked  features  the  stamp  of  that  nervous  and  powerful 
genius  which  he  had  so  eminently  displayed  in  his  vast  mer- 
cantile enterprizes,  and  the  -distinguished  financial  ability  he 
manifested  in  the  critical  crises  of  the  last  campaigns.  When 
I  contemplated  the  advanced  condition  of  Philadelphia,  and 
recollected  the  fact  that  in  1681,  its  site  was  occupied  by  a 
primeval  forest,  my  mind  was  impressed  with  wonder  and 
admiration.  The  streets  are  generally  broad,  extending  from 
the  Delaware  to  the  Schuylkill  river,  a  distance  of  three  miles, 
and  crossed  by  others  at  right  angles.  It  is  known  that  the 
original  plan  of  that  city  was  conceived  in  the  enlarged  mind 
of  Penn,  who  embraced  posterity  in  his  views.  Most  of  the 
other  American  cities  originated  by  chance,  and  received  their 
formation  from  accident  or  caprice. 

Philadelphia  embraced  numerous  squares ;  the  streets  were 
well  paved  with  wide  and  clean  side-walks.  It  was  dimly 
lighted  in  the  same  manner  as  London,  but  efficiently  guarded 
by  a  police  and  watch.  It  contained  about  6,000  dwellings, 
chiefly  built  of  brick,  and  a  population  of  60,000.  The  prison 
and  the  State  Hall  were  the  only  public  edifices  of  interest; 
the  latter  gloriously  associated  with  the  events  and  progress  of 
Independence.  It  was  here  the  first  Congress  assembled  in 
1774,*  and  here  was  enacted  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
July  4th,  1776.  The  exports  of  Philadelphia  were  transported 
to  every  section  of  the  world,  and  comprehended  flour,  wheat^ 
iron,  lumber  and  provisions.  I  was  gratified  to  observe  an 
infusion  of  French  manners  and  habits  in  the  social  amuse- 
ments of  the  people,  and  in  the  aspect  of  their  refined  circles. 

♦I  think  this  an  error.  The  first  Congress  met  in  Carpenters'  Hall,  Philadel* 
phia. — Editor. 

16 


242  MEN   AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

I  left  Philadelphia  on  the  13th  of  January,  1785,  in  a  stage, 
and  crossed  the  Schuylkill  over  a  floating  bridge  of  three  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  jointed  with  large  hinges,  by  which  it  was 
elevated  and  depressed  in  the  action  of  the  tide.  This  bridge 
was  constructed  by  the  British  in  '78.  Our  road  run  parallel 
to  the  Delaware.  We  found  the  country  pleasantly  occupied 
by  spacious  farms,  with  excellent  enclosures,  and  orchards,  and 
adorned  by  villages  and  country  seats. 

Wilmington,  in  the  State  of  Delaware,  is  pleasantly  situated 
upon  an  eminence  on  the  Delaware  river.  It  appeared  regu- 
larly laid  out,  and  contained  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  neat 
brick  dwellings,  nearly  all  of  recent  erection.  At  the  Brandy- 
wine  creek,  near  this  village,  we  stopped  to  examine  the  most 
extensive  flouring  mills  on  the  continent,  which  had  in  opera- 
tion a  new  kind  of  machinery,  invented  by  Evans,  and  calcu- 
lated to  eflfect,  in  manufacturing,  an  immense  saving  of  manual 
labor. 

The  country,  along  the  road  to  Christina,  was  principally 
covered  by  the  original  forest.  We  arrived  that  evening  at 
Elktown,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Elk  Creek,  with  the 
Chesapeake.  At  this  place  Washington  was  encamped  upon  the 
landing  of  Howe  in  '77,  and  here  he  commenced  his  retreat. 
The  roads  from  the  Elk  to  Baltimore  were  excessively  bad,  the 
country  thinly  settled,  and  chiefly  in  its  primitive  forest  con- 
dition. The  stage  was  merely  a  connmon  wagon,  with  spring 
seats,  and  canvas  top  and  sides.  In  the  character  of  these 
accommodations,  we  were  a  century  behind  England. 

The  appearance  of  Baltimore  had  totally  changed  since  my 
visit  in '78.  It  included  at  that  time  about  1,000  dwellings  and 
6,000  inhabitants  ;  both  had  doubled  in  the  short  term  of  seven 
years.  I  proceeded  to  Alexandria  from  Baltimore,  travelling 
over  infamous  roads  and  through  extensive  woodlands,  as  if  in 
a  newly-occupied  territory.  The  second  day  after  our  depart- 
ure from  Baltimore,  we  reached  the  banks  of  the  Potomac, 
opposite  the  former  city,  and  crossed  the  river  in  a  barge,  con- 
tending at  considerable  risk  with  the  floating  ice.     Alexandria 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANi^H  WATSON.  243 

had  made  decided  advances  since  '78,  but  exhibited  no  com- 
parison, in  its  progress,  to  its  vigorous  rival,  Baltimore. 

I  had  feasted  my  imagination  for  several  days  in  the  near 
prospect  of  a  visit  to  Mount  Vernon,  the  seat  of  Washington. 
No  pilgrim  ever  approached  Mecca  with  deeper  enthusiasm. 
I  arrived  there  in  the  afternoon  of  January  23d,^;'85.  I  was 
the  bearer  of  the  letter  from  Gen.  Green,  with  another  from 
Col.  Fitzgerald,  one  of  the  former  aids  of  Washington,  and 
also  the  books  from  Granville  Sharp.  Although  assured  that 
these  credentials  would  secure  me  a  respectful  reception,  I 
trembled  with  awe  as  I  came  into  the  presence  of  this  great 
man.  I  found  him  at  table  with  Mrs.  Washington  and  his 
private  family,  and  was  received  in  the  native  dignity. and 
with  that  urbanity  so  peculiarly  combined  in  the  character  of 
a  soldier  and  eminent  private  gentleman.  He  soon  put  me  at 
ease,  by  unbending,  in  a  free  and  affable  conversation. 

The  cautious  reserve,  which  wisdom  and  policy  dictated, 
whilst  engaged  in  rearing  the  glorious  fabric  of  our  independ- 
ance,  was  evidently  the  result  of  consummate  prudence,  and 
not  characteristic  of  his  nature.  Although  I  had  frequently 
seen  him  in  the  progress  of  the  Revolution,  and  had  corres- 
ponded with  him  from  France  in  '81  and  '82,  this  was  the  first 
occasion  on  which  I  had  contemplated  him  in  his  private 
relations.  I  observed  a  peculiarity  in  his  smile,  which  seemed 
to  illuminate  his  eye  ;  his  whole  countenance  beamed  with  in- 
telligence, while  it  commanded  confidence  and  respect.  The 
gentleman  who  had  accompanied  me  from  Alexandria,  left  in 
the  evening,  and  I  remained  alone  in  the  enjoyment  of  the 
society  of  Washington,  for  two  of  the  richest  days  of  my  life. 
I  saw  him  reaping  the  reward  of  his  illustrious  deeds,  in  the 
quiet  shade  of  his  beloved  retirement.  He  was  at  the  matured 
age  of  fifty-three.  Alexander  and  Caesar  both  died  before  they 
reached  that  period  of  life,  and  both  had  immortalized  their 
names.  How  much  stronger  and  nobler  the  claims  of  Wash- 
ington to  immortality !  In  the  impulses  of  mad  and  selfish 
ambition,  they  acquired  fame  by  wading  to  the  conquest  of  the 
world  through  seas  of  blood.     Washington,  on  the  contrary, 


244  MEN   AKD  TIMES   OF  THE  KEVOLUTIOK ; 

was  parsimonious  of  the  blood  of  his  countrymen,  and  stood 
forth,  the  pure  and  virtuous  champion  of  their  rights,  and 
formed  for  them,  (not  himself,)  a  mighty  Empire. 

To  have  communed  with  such  a  man  in  the  bosom  of  his 
family,  I  shall  always  regard  as  one  of  the  highest  privileges, 
and  most  cherished  incidents  of  my  life.  I  found  him  kind  and 
benignant  in  the  domestic  circle,  revered  and  beloved  by  all 
around  him ;  agreeably  social,  without  ostentation  ;  delighting 
in  anecdote  and  adventures,  without  assumption ;  his  domestic 
arrangements  harmonious  and  systematic.  His  servants 
seemed  to  watch  his  eye,  and  to  anticipate  his  every  wish  ; 
hence  a  look  was  equivalent  to  a  command.  His  servant 
Billy,  the  faithful  companion  of  his  military  career,  was  always 
at  his  side.  Smiling  content  animated  and  beamed  on  every 
countenance  in  his  presence. 

The  first  evening  I  spent  under  the  wing  of  his  hospitality, 
we  sat  a  full  hour  at  table  by  ourselves,  without  the  least 
interruption,  after  the  family  had  retired.  I  was  extremely 
oppressed  by  a  severe  cold  and  excessive  coughing,  contracted 
by  the  exposure  of  a  harsh  winter  journey.  He  pressed  me 
to  use  some  remedies,  but  1  declined  domg  so.  As  usual  after 
retiring,  my  coughing  increased.  When  some  time  had  elapsed, 
the  door  of  my  room  was  gently  opened,  and  on  drawing  my 
bed-curtains,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  I  beheM  Washington 
himself,  standing  at  my  bed-side,  with  a  bowl  of  hot  tea  in 
his  hand.  I  was  mortified  and  distressed  beyond  expression. 
This  little  incident,  occurring  in  common  life  with  an  ordinary 
man,  would  not  bave  been  noticed  ;  but  as  a  trait  of  the  benev- 
olence and  private  virtue  of  Washington,  deserves  to  be 
recorded. 

He  modestly  waived  all  allusions  to  the  events,  in  which  he 
had  acted  so  glorious  and  conspicuous  a  part.  Much  of  his 
conversation  had  reference  to  the  interior  country,  and  to  the 
opening  of  the  navigation  of  the  Potomac,  by  canals  and  locks, 
at  the  Seneca,  the  Great  and  Little  Falls.  His  mind  appeared 
to  be  deeply  absorbed  by  that  object,  then  in  earnest  contem- 
plation.    He  allowed  me  to  take  minutes   from   his   former 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  245 

journals  on  this  subject,  of  which  the  following  is  a  partial 
summary  : 

"  The  Stock  of  the  company  is  divided  into  five  hundred 
shares,  at  £50  sterling  each.  The  canal  Company  has  been 
incorporated  by  both  Maryland  and  Virginia."  (Washington 
had  accepted  the  Presidency.)  "  The  preliminary  preparations 
are  in  full  train,  to  commence  operations  in  the  ensuing  Spring, 
not  only  to  remove  the  obstacles  in  the  Potomac  to  a  boat 
navigation  from  Georgetown  to  Fort  Cumberland,  a  distance 
of  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles,  but  to  the  ultimate  construc- 
tion of  a  canal  to  Lake  Erie,  which  is  intended  not  only  to  give 
a  direction  of  the  fur  trade  from  Detroit  to  Alexandria,  but  to 
attract  the  eventual  trade  of  the  country  north  of  the  Ohio, 
which  now  slumbers  in  a  state  of  nature."  This  scheme  was 
worthy  the  comprehensive  mind  of  Washington. 

To  demonstrate  the  practicability  and  the  policy  of  diverting 
the  trade  of  the  immense  interior  world  yet  unexplored  to  the 
Atlantic  cities,  especially  in  view  of  the  idea  that  the  Mississippi 
would  be  opened  by  Spain,  was  his  constant  and  favorite 
theme.  To  elucidate  also  the  probability  that  the  Detroit  fur 
trade  would  take  this  direction,  he  produced  to  me  the  follow- 
ing estimates,  which  1  copied,  in  his  presence  and  with  his  aid, 
from  the  original  manuscript : 

''From  Detroit,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Erie,  via  Fort  Pitt, 
(now   Pittsburgh,)  and  Fort  Cumberland,  to  the  head   of  the 
Potomac,  is         -         -         -         -         607  miles. 
To  Richmond,       -         -         .         .     349        " 
"    Philadelphia,         -         -         -         741       " 
"    Albany,  -         -         .         .     943       « 

"    Montreal,      -         -         .         .         955       « 
Thus  it  appeared  that  Alexandria  is  348  miles  nearer  Detroit 
than  Montreal,  with  only  two  carrying  places  of  about  forty 
miles. 

Since  my  travels  in  1779,  I  had  been  deeply  and  constantly 
impressed  with  the  importance  of  constructing  canals  to  con- 
nect the  various  waters  of  America.  This  conviction  was 
confirmed  by  the  examination  of  numerous  canals  in  Europe, 


246  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

and  travellingextensively  on  several  of  them.  Hearing  little 
else  for  two  days  from  the  persuasive  tongue  of  this  great  man, 
I  confess  completely  infected  me  with  the  canal  mania,  and 
enkindled  all  my  enthusiasm. 

Washington  pressed  me  earnestly  to  settle  on  the  banks  of 
the  Potomac.  At  his  suggestion  I  proceeded  up  the  southern 
shore  of  the  river,  twenty-two  miles  from  Alexandria,  to 
examine  the  proposed  route  of  the  canal.  The  extent  of  this 
artificial  navigation  was  designed  to  be  about  a  mile  respect- 
ively at  the  Seneca,  Great,  and  Little  Falls.  Eleven  miles 
above  Alexandria  occur  the  Lower  Falls,  where  the  river  de- 
scends in  curling  weaves  thirty-six  feet  in  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 
Here  the  contemplated  canal  will  be  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  sit- 
uated on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  .  We  reached,  eleven 
miles  further,  the  Great  Falls,  which  are  a  stupendous  exhibi- 
tion of  hydraulic  power.  The  whole  river  rushing  down  amid 
rocks  and  impediments,  wave  pressing  upon  wave,  like  the 
surging  of  the  ocean  in  a  tempest,  produced  a  roaring  which 
we  distinctly  heard  at  the  distance  of  a  mile.  At  this  place  the 
entire  fall  is  seventy  feet,  embracing  a  vertical  descent  of 
twenty-three  feet,  which  adds  infinitely  to  the  imposing  scene. 
Here  existed  the  most  serious  obstacle  to  the  execution  of  the 
work.* 

I  travelled  across  the  country  on  horseback,  from  Alexan- 
dria to  Annapolis,  a  distance  of  twenty-four  miles ;  the  roads 
were  excellent,  but  obstructed  by  innumerable  gates.  I  crossed 
the  Severn,  a  bold  stream,  that  admitted  vessels  of  three  hun- 
dred tons  for  twelve  miles.     Annapolis,  situated  at  the  mouth 

*In  1808  I  again  visited  these  places.  Canals  and  locks  had  been  completed 
round  the  Little  and  Great  Falls,  and  also  at  the  Shenandoah  and  Seneca  Falls. 
Considerable  improvements  had  been  made  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  above  these 
works.  The  navigation  of  the  Shenandoah,  an  important  branch  of  the  Poto- 
mac, had  been  opened  at  an  expense  of  nearly  half  a  million  of  dollars  ;  but 
much  still  remained  to  be  done  to  perfect  the  navigation  of  the  Potomac  to  Fort 
Cumberland.  As  the  Potomac  is  a  rapid  stream,  this  inland  navigation  can 
never  successfully  compete  with  the  Lake  Erie  Canal,  to  the  Hudson  River, 
especially  as  the  sloop  navigation,  from  Albany  to  New- York,  is  superior  to  any 
n  America,  if  not  to  any  in  the  world.     (182L) 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  247 

of  the  river,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Chesapeake.  The 
State  House,  the  Capitol  of  Maryland,  was  reputed  to  be  the 
largest  and  most  elegant  edifice  in  America.  The  chamber  in 
which  Washington  presented  his  resignation,  contains  an  ex- 
cellent painting  of  him,  with  Rochambeau  and  La  Fayette  in 
the  group. 

On  my  return,  I  rode  in  a  stage-sleigh  from  Philadelphia  to 
New- York,  slipping  over  the  snow  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  ten 
miles  an  hour.  I  had  never,  previous  to  the  present  journey, 
travelled  in  this  manner,  and  thought  it  preferable,  even  to 
English  post-chaises,  for  ease  and  expedition.  I  resumed  my 
travels  eastward  from  New- York  on  horseback  to  the  Harlem 
river ;  the  island  appeared  barren,  rocky,  and  broken.  The  road 
which  ran  parallel  to  the  Sound  was  unpleasant  and  without 
interest.  In  this  journey  I  became  personally  acquainted  with 
two  of  the  most  eminent  poets  of  America,  whom  I  met  at 
Fairfield,   in   Connecticut — John   Trumbull   and  Dr.  Dwight. 

My  former  partner  in  France,  Mons.  Cossoul,  came  to 
America  the  following  summer.  We  renewed  our  connection  ; 
he  was  to  proceed  to  Port-au-Prince,  and  I  was  to  return  to 
North  Carolina  in  co-operation  with  him.  In  conformity  with 
this  arrangement,  I  left  Newport  for  the  South,  in  March, 
1786.  I  proceeded  from  Baltimore  in  a  Norfolk  packet,  and 
occupied  three  days  in  sailing  down  the  noble  Chesapeake. 
We  dropped  anchor  in  the  bold  harbor  of  Norfolk,  in  which 
were  lying  many  large  ships  and  numerous  craft,  loaded  with 
tobacco  and  other  products  from  James  river. 

Norfolk  was  the  most  prosperous  town  of  Virginia,  before  it 
was  burned  by  Dunmore  in  '75.  It  was,  at  the  time  I  saw  it, 
recoveiing  from  the  blow,  and  already  presented  the  aspect  of 
a  thriving  city.  Here  I  was  obliged  to  delay  two  or  three 
days,  wailing  for  some  conveyance  to  Edenton,  North  Caro- 
lina. Despairing  of  success,  I  hired  two  negroes  to  convey 
me,  with  my  baggage,  in  a  canoe,  up  Nansemond  river  to 
Suffolk,  a  distance  of  thirty-five  miles.  It  was  not  only  an 
extremely  awkward  and  unpleasant  mode  of  travelling,  but 
hazardous,  and  exposed  me  to  many  inconveniences  and  mor- 


248  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   EETOLUT10N  ;■ 

tifications  on  the  route.  Yet  I  enjoyed  it,  as  affording  a  iine 
opportunity  of  seeing  tlie  river,  and  the  beautiful  plantations 
©n  its  shores. 

At  Suffolk,  I  had  no  alternative  but  to  embark  in  a  returning 
coal  cart,  and  with  one  miserable  horse,  and  a  black  boy  as  driver. 
I  embraced  this  mode  of  conveyance  in  order  to  reach  the  housfr 
of  Mr.  Granby,  a  wealthy  planter  of  Gates  County,  where  1  had 
been  hospitably  entertained  in  '77.  I  was  compelled  to  travel 
two  hours  in  intense  darkness  in  this  Tyburn-like  style, 
amid  a  storm  of  rain,  and  arrived  dripping  with  wet  and  be- 
spattered with  mud.  On  my  arrival  in  this  humble  condition, 
I  found  the  mansion  occupied  by  a  dancing  party,  and  although 
I  endeavored  to  recall  to  his  mind  the  previous  hospitality  I 
had  received,  Mr.  Granby  received  me  coldly,  and  had  no 
recollection  of  my  person,  and  evidently  from  my  suspicious 
mode  of  travelling,  hesitated  in  receiving  my  story.  Yet  I  had 
no  al'ternative,  as  it  began  to  rain  furiously,  and  there  was  no 
tavern  within  several  miles.  At  length  he  began  to  unbend, 
and  my  experience  in  the  world  enabled  me  to  soon  surmount 
his  scruples ;  but  my  sensibility  w^as  deeply  wounded  by  the 
occurrence.  I  was  in  the  habit,  in  the  succeeding  two  or  three 
years,  of  often  seeing  Mr.  Granby,  who  never  ceased  his  apol- 
ogies. In  the  succeeding  summer,  during  a  journey  which  I 
shall  immediately  narrate,  I  again,,  at  the  close  of  day,  for  the 
third  time  in  my  wanderings,  approached  the  mansion  of  this 
gentleman.  He  now  received  me  as  he  might  have  received  a 
General,  as  in  truth  I  and  my  man  Mills  made  quite  a  military 
display.  I  in  obedience  to  the  fashion  of  the  day  wore  a 
cocked  hat  and  a  blue  coat,  with  a  crimson  velvet  cape,  while 
Mills  was  equipped  in  a  half- military  coatee  with  pistol-holsters,, 
and  a  buffalo  skin  over  his  saddle.  Mr.  Granby  appeared 
much  gratified  at  the  opportunity,  as  he  said,  of  expiating  his- 
previous  offence  against  Southern  hospitality.  Such  are  the 
ordinary  effects,  which  I  have  often  observed,  produced  by 
external  appearances. 

I   remained    at  Edenton   and    in    its    vicinity  for   several; 
months.     In   August,   I    commenced   an    extensive    tour    ia> 


'     OR,   MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  24S^ 

the  interior  of  North  Carolina.  The  pursuit  of  health  in 
its  elevated  districts  and  the  pronnptings  of  curiosity,  were 
my  motives. 

I  started  in  a  sulky,  with  a  sprightly  black  lad,  as  my  at- 
tendant, named  Mills,  on  horseback,  both  well  armed.  Our 
route  lay  along  the  South  borders  of  the  great  Dismal  Swamp. 
A  scheme  had  been  suggested  by  Washington  previous  to  the 
Revolution,  of  connecting  the  Chesapeake  with  Albemarle 
Sound,  by  a  canal  to  penetrate  this  tract,  which  may  be  sup- 
plied with  water  from  Lake  Drummond,  lying  in  the  centre 
of  the  swamp. 

Our  road  traversed  the  country,  near  the  boundary  of  Vir- 
ginia and  North  Carolina,  which  is  generally  low  and  sandy,  al- 
though bearing  majestic  pines.  We  crossed  the  Black  River  near 
its  confluence  with  the  Nottoway.  At  one  point  I  was  com- 
pelled to  employ  oxen  to  transport  my  luggage  through  the 
slough  of  the  deep  muddy  roads.  On  crossing  this  ferry,  we 
ascended  a  considerable  hill,  the  first  I  had  seen  in  three 
months,  and  which  seemed  to  afford  a  purer  air.  From 
thence  to  Murfree's  landing,  on  theMeherrin,  the  road  was  good^ 
the  country  level;  producing  corn,  flax,  and  some  inferior  to- 
baccex,  but  sparsely  settled. 

After  crossing  the  river  in  a  wretched  flat,  we  ascended  a 
sharp  hill  to  Murfree's  plantation,  then  a  mere  Janding-place, 
but  which  has  since  expanded  into  the  important  town  of 
Murfreesboro'.  In  an  excavation,  on  this  ascent,  I  observed  a 
Avide  stratum  of  perfectly  defined  marine  shells.  Their  posi- 
tion is  one  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean.  Here  I  spent  a  day 
with  Major  Murfree,  an  intrepid  oflicer  of  the  Revolution,  and 
found  his  mind  full  of  projects  for  the  development  of  the 
great  natural  advantages  of  his  position. 

Approaching  Halifax  on  the  Roanoke,  I  was  delighted  to 
see  the  country  broken  by  small  hills,  here  and  there  streams 
purling  and  fretting  along,  and  an  occasional  exhibition  of 
slight  veins  of  rock.  While  receiving  the  hospitality  of  CoL 
Ashe  at  this  place,  his  lady  related  to  me  the  following 
amusing  anecdote.     When  Corn wallis'  army  passed  the  resi- 


250  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION 


dence  of  Col.  Ashe,  she  remained  to  protect  the  property. 
Cornwallis  and  Tarleton  visited  her.  In  the  course  of  conver- 
sation, the  latter  remarked,  that  he  had  a  great  desire  to  see 
his  famous  rival  in  partizan  warfare — Col.  Washington  : — to 
which  she  fearlessly  replied,  "  If  you  had  looked  behind  you, 
Sir,  at  the  battle  of  the  Cowpens,  you  would  most  certainly 
have  seen  him."  The  retort  was  severe  and  cutting,  as  the 
fact  was  notorious,  that  Washington  was  in  full  chase  of 
Tarleton,  personally,  for  a  considerable  distance,  on  that  oc- 
casion. 

Immediately  after  leaving  Halifax,  the  country  assumed  all 
the  characteiistics  of  a  northern  region.  Our  road  led  us  up 
and  down  hills,  over  an  abundance  of  stones;  the  brooks  danc- 
ing briskly  across  the  track.  The  children  were  ruddy,  and 
the  people  healthy  and  vigorous.  Warrenton  was  just 
emerging  from  the  forest ;  but  possessed  a  refined  neighbor- 
hood, a  salubrious  air,  temperate  climate,  and  pure,  delight- 
ful water.  Just  extricated  from  the  baneful  malaria  of  the 
low  country,  I  seemed  to  receive  here  a  new  tenure  of  life. 

At  Warrenton,  I  met  in  the  midst  of  a  crowd,  at  a  tavern, 
Col.  H.,  formerly  a  member  of  Congress,  to  whom  I  had  a 
letter  of  introduction  from  Philadelphia.  After  exchanging  the 
usual  civilities,  and  promising  to  visit  him  at  his  plantation, 
we  parted.  I  proceeded  to  the  new  court-house  standing 
amid  trees  and  stumps,  to  witness  a  N^orth  Carolina  election, 
then  in  full  progress.  I  unhappily  met  there  a  little  Irish- 
man, whom  I  had  known  in  Edenton,  and  who  was  the  un- 
lucky cause  of  involving  me  in  a  most  mortifying  predica- 
ment. He  soon  exclaimed,  "  Have  you  seen  the  sight  ?'' 
"  What  sight  ?" — ''  Follow  me." — We  pressed  through  the 
mob,  intermixed  with  some  respectable  planters,  and  a  few 
females.  "  There !"  says  he,  ''  did  you  ever  look  upon  the 
like?"  pointing  to  the  most  obese  woman  I  had  ever  seen; 
and  what  was  more  striking,  she  appeared  to  be  an  active 
leader  at  the  polls.  On  retiring,  my  malignant  star  led  me 
again  to  stumble  on  Col.  H.  "  Well,  Colonel,"  I  remarked, 
*'  I  have   seen  one  of  the  strangest  sights  in  the  world, — a 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  251 

real  phenomenon;  I  will  show  you;"  and  in  pretty  nauch  the 
same  language  the  Irishman  had  used,  I  pointed  out  to  him  the 
lady.  He  made  no  reply,  but  observed  he  should  expect  me 
at  his  plantation  to  meet  some  friends  at  dinner,  the  next  day. 
I  thought  no  more  of  the  adventure,  until  approaching  the 
mansion  of  Col.  H.,  just  as  we  emerged  from  a  little  copse  of 
trees,  I  perceived,  to  my  utter  dismay,  the  same  lady  I  had 
pointed  out  to  him,  sitting  on  a  piazza,  the  Colonel  walking 
near  her,  and  a  group  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  the  extremity. 
I  reined  up  my  horse,  determined  to  make  a  precipitate  retreat,  as 
the  best  course  to  extricate  myself  from  the  evident  dilemma; 
but  as  Mills  assured  me  we  had  been  observed,  I  saw  my  re- 
treat was  cut  off,  and  decided  to  make  the  best  of  the  affair 
possible. 

Col.  H.  met  me  cordially,  and  I  was  immediately  introduced 
to  the  lady  as  his  mother.  My  embarrassment  and  mortifica- 
tion was  evident ;  but  I  was  soon  relieved  by  her  kindness 
and  affability  from  my  awkward  position.  I  at  once  formed 
one  of  the  members  of  the  family,  and  passed  in  it  several  of 
the  most  agreeable  days.  I  never  met  a  more  sensible,  spirit- 
ed old  lady.  She  was  a  great  politician  ;  and  I  was  assured 
she  had  more  political  influence,  and  exerted  it  with  greater 
effect,  than  any  man  in  her  county.  Col.  H.  had  been  educat- 
ed at  Princeton,  was  a  prominent  party  leader,  and  had  been  a 
distinguished  member  of  Congress. 

My  time  was  amply  occupied  in  social  convivialities,  wan- 
dering about  the  country — in  deer  hunting  and  other  rural 
amusements.  At  one  of  these  hunting  parties  1  made  another 
ridiculous  "faux  pas."  Col.  H.  had  invited  a  party  of  neigh- 
boring gentlemen  to  dine,  and  a  hunt  after  dinner,  in  compli- 
ment to  his  guest.  I  was  no  sportsman,  but  anxious  to  see  the 
sport,  and  mounted  with  my  gun,  we  rode  to  an  abandoned 
old  tobacco  field.  A  party  of  negroes  had  preceded  us  with  a 
pack  of  hounds,  to  range  a  circuit  of  woods,  and  to  insure  us 
game.  We  were  placed  in  proper  positions  across  the  field* 
and  it  was  insisted,  against  my  earnest  expostulation,  that  I 
should  occupy  the  point,  where  it  was  very  certain   the  deer 


252  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

would  break  upon  us.  In  a  few  minutes  we  heard  the  distant 
yell  of  the  hounds,  approaching  nearer  and  nearer.  All  drop- 
ped upon  one  knee,  our  guns  cocked.  We  heard  the  rust- 
ling of  leaves  and  bushes — I  was  all  animation,  alive  with  excite- 
ment at  the  opening  scene.  In  a  twinkling,  two  noble  deer 
burst  into  the  clearing  directly  in  front  of  my  position,  with 
the  hounds  in  full  cry  at  their  heels.  They  paused  an  instant 
— their  heads  erect — their  eyes  expanded.  Instead  of  instant- 
ly firing,  as  I  should  have  done,  by  a  sudden  impulse,  fearing 
they  would  escape,  I  cried  out,  "  here  they  come !"  In  a  mo- 
ment they  darted  off,  and  I  fired  at  random  among  the  bushes. 
All  raised  a  hearty  laugh  at  my  expense,  and  required  no 
further  evidence  that  I  was  no  sportsman. 

On  the  evening  succeeding  my  departure  from  the  mansion 
of  Col.  H.,  I  arrived  at  the  elegant  seat  of  Judge  Williams,  at 
Nutbush,  whom  I  had  engaged  to  visit.  This  was  the  same 
gentleman,  who  was  called  a  Mulatto  in  a  book  of  travels  by 
one  Smith,  a  worthless  Tory.  The  judge  had  a  swart  com- 
plexion, but  was  an  accomplished  gentleman,  possessing  high 
talents,  and  genuine  Southern  hospitality.  Travellers  with 
any  pretensions  to  respectability  seldom  stop  at  the  wretched 
taverns,  but  custom  sanctions  their  freely  calling  at  any  plant- 
er's residence,  who  seems  to  consider  himself  the  party  oblig- 
ed by  this  freedom. 

The  country  was  beautiful  in  the  vicinity  of  Nutbush.  Its 
productions  were  chiefly  tobacco,  corn,  peas,  wheat,  and  large 
quantities  of  pork,  lard,  deer-skins  and  beeswax,  were  also 
exported.  A  happy  forbearance  preserved  me  from  commit- 
ting an  act,  which  would  have  embittered  my  subsequent  life. 
TraveUing  after  dark  in  the  neighborhood  of  Nutbush  Mills, 
a  man  suddenly  sprang  from  the  wood  on  horseback,  upon 
Mills,  who  was  in  advance,  with  the  apparent  intention  of 
dismounting  him  and  robbing  me.  Mills  recoiled  back  on  my 
carriage,  pistol  in  hand.  I  ordered  him  to  hold  his  fire,  and 
at  the  same  time  drew  and  cocked  my  own  pistol.  The  per- 
son followed  close  in  the  rear  of  the  carriage.  I  commanded 
him  to  keep  off,  and  several  times  was  almost  in  the  act  of 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOl^.  253 

firing  on  him.  On  reaching  the  Nutbush  opening,  he  disap- 
peared. While  in  the  act  ol"  narrating  the  adventure  to  Judge 
WilHams,  the  very  man  entered  the  room,  and,  to  my  utter 
astonishment,  proved  to  be  his  own  son,  a  wandering  lunatic. 

From  this  place  I  proceeded  westward,  crossing  the  head  of 
Tar  and  Neuse  rivers.  The  land  was  generally  of  a  superior 
quality,  the  weather  was  temperate  and  delightful,  although 
in  mid-summer.  The  country  was  comparatively  new  and 
thinly  occupied.  The  settlements  however,  extended  to  the 
West  several  hundred  miles,  and  were  increasing  in  popula- 
tion with  unexampled  rapidity. 

The  ensuing  day  I  reached  Hillsboro'  upon  the  little  Eno- 
It  contained  forty  dwelling-houses,  a  church,  court-house,  and 
an  academy — a  feeble  lamp — but  it  was  earnestly  fostered,  in 
the  expectation  that  its  flame  would  extend  and  gradually 
spread  until  its  benign  rays  should  illuminate  the  minds  of  that 
benighted  region.  Perhaps  no  State  had  at  that  period  per- 
formed so  little  to  promote  the  cause  of  education,  science 
and  arts,  as  North  Carolina.  A  cultivated  and  refined  pos- 
terity now  occupies  that  charming  territory.  The  lower 
classes  of  that  region  were  then  in  a  condition  of  great  men* 
tal  degradation.  The  vicinity  of  Hillsboro'  was,  however,  in 
an  advanced  state  of  agricultural  improvement,  and  embraced 
a  very  genteel  society. 

We  forded  the  Eno  with  difficulty,  and  were  ferried  over 
the  Haw,  a  branch  of  the  Cape  Fear  river,  after  traversing  a 
fertile  tract  called  the  "  Haws  fields,"  occupied  by  a  mongrel 
race  of  independent  but  ignorant  setders,  known  as  the  "Scotch- 
Irish."  I  examined  with  pleasure  the  spot  where  the  indefa- 
tigable Col.  Lee,  in  1781,  with  his  partizan  corps,  surprised 
and  cut  to  pieces  a  regiment  of  Tories  on  their  way  to  join 
Cornwallis,at  the  moment  they  were  huzzaing  for  King  George, 
under  the  fatal  impression  that  they  were  surrounded  by  Tarle- 
ton's  corps,  who  lay  only  a  few  miles  in  advance. 

I  soon  after  crossed  the  Buffalo  river,  by  crawling  along 
a  slippery  log,  whilst  a  negro  swam  over  the  horses.  I  oc- 
cupied several  hours  at  Guilford  Court-house  and  the  neigh- 


264  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

borhood,  in  examining  the  ground,  upon  which  occured  the 
great  conflict  between  Green  and  Cornwallis.  The  gallantry 
of  the-  well-poised,  hard-fought  battle,  and  the  momentous 
consequences  which  followed  in  the  retreat  and  ultimate  cap- 
ture of  Cornwallis,  will  forever  commemorate  this  scene  in  the 
annals  of  America.  ''  Here,"  said  my  guide,  "  is  the  spot 
where  Col.  Washington  forced  the  British  lines — there  the 
cannonade  began — yonder  the  contending  armies  closed — at 
the  west  end  of  that  old  field,  the  British  first  formed — at  this 
extremity  Green  drew  up  his  Continentals — in  that  thick  wood 
on  the  north,  were  stationed  the  Virginia  and  North  Carolina 
militia  ;  the  latter  fled  at  the  first  fire,  while  the  former  stood 
firm  as  veterans.  Mark  those  trees,  their  limbs  cropped  and 
torn  by  the  balls,  on  their  messages  of  death.  On  this  road 
Green  slowly  and  sullenly  retreated  before  his  crippled  enemy, 
well  covered  by  the  horse  of  Lee  and  Washington.  Here  rest 
the  bones  of  the  American  dead — there  the  British  repose." 


OR,  MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  "VirATSON,  25^ 


CHAPTER     XXI. 

Moravians — Quakers — Yadkin — Mecklenburgh — Gen.  Polk — Visit  Cataw- 
ba Indians — Indian  Chief — New  River — Educated  Indian — Indian 
Queen  —  Hanging  Rock — Gen.  Sumpter— Flat  Rock— Camden  — 
Battle-Field— Gates  and  Green — Adventure — Western  Emigration — 
Yankee  Trick— Cock-Fight — New  Constitution — Election—Party  Con- 
test— Return  North. 

The  succeeding  day  I  pursued  the  route  of  Cornwallis  in 
his  advance,  and  entered  the  possessions  of  the  happy  Mora- 
vians, so  justly  distinguished  for  their  piety,  industry  and  ad- 
mirable pohce.  The  road  from  Guilford  to  Salem  was  good, 
and  the  country  pleasant.  The  ground  was  easily  cleared  of  the 
timber,  and  prepared  for  cultivation.  The  average  price  was 
two  dollars  per  acre,  of  the  first  quality  of  land,  while  on  the 
Tennessee  river  it  might  then  be  purchased  for  Is.  6d.  per 
acre.  In  the  general  face  of  the  country — the  temperature  of 
the  climate — the  purity  of  the  air,  and  the  exuberance  of  the 
soil,  this  region  closely  resembles  the  South  of  France,  although 
several  degrees  nearer  the  Equator. 

The  moment  I  touched  the  boundary  of  the  Moravians,  I 
noticed  a  marked  and  most  favorable  change  in  the  appear- 
ance of  buildings  and  farms,  and  even  the  cattle  seemed 
larger,  and  in  better  condition.  Here  in  combined  and  well 
directed  effort,  all  put  shoulders  to  the  wheel,  which  apparent- 
ly moves  on  oily  springs.  We  passed  in  our  ride.  New  Garden, 
a  settlement  of  Quakers  from  Nantucket :  they  too  were  exem- 
plary and  industrious.  The  generality  of  the  planters  in  this  State 
depend  upon  negro  labor,  and  live  scantily  in  a  region  of  afflu- 
ence. In  the  possessions  of  the  Moravians  and  Quakers,  all 
labor  is  performed  by  whites.  Every  farm  looks  neat  and 
cheerful ;  the  dwellings  are  tidy  and  well  furnished,  abounding 
in  plenty. 

In  the  evening  I  attended  service  in  the  Moravian  chapel. 
This  was  a  spacious  room  in  a  large  edifice,  adorned   with 


^56  MEIJ  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION^ 

that  neat  and  simple  elegance,  which  was  a  peculiar  trail 
o[  these  brethren  and  their  Quaker  neighbors.  On  our  first 
entrance,  only  two  or  three  persons  were  visible ;  *  but  the 
moment  the  organ  sounded,  several  doors  were  simultaneous- 
ly opened.  The  men  were  ushered  in  on  one  side,  and  the 
women  upon  the  other,  and  in  one  minute  the  seats  were  filled 
and  the  devotees  arranged  lor  worship.  The  devotions  on 
that  occasion,  consisted  merely  in  their  chanting  a  melodious 
German  anthem,  accompanied  by  the  organ. 

In  the  morning,  1  was  introduced  to  Mt.  Bargee,  their  princi* 
pal.  He  conducted  me  through  all  their  manufactories,  and 
communicated  to  me,  with  much  intelligence,  many  facts  in 
relation  to  the  tenets  and  habits  of  this  devout  and  laborious 
sect.  Salem  comprehended  about  forty  dwellings,  and  oc- 
cupies a  pleasant  situation.  The  founders  of  the  establish* 
ment  had  emigrated  from  Bethlehem  thirty  years  before. 
They  purchased  a  tract  of  about  90,000  acres  of  excellent  land, 
•agreeably  intersected  by  the  head-waters  of  the  Yadkin. 
The  society  embraced  about  1,000  persons,  occupying  several 
villages,  and  scattered  over  their  territory  on  good  farms. 
Every  house  in  Salem  was  supplied  with  water  brought  in 
conduits  one  mile  and  a  half.  In  all  respects,  social,  moral, 
and  religious,  they  were  identical  with  the  brethren  at  Beth- 
lehem, whom  I  have  already  described. 

I  crossed  the  Yadkin  at  the  ferry,  where  Green  by  a  hair- 
breadth, escaped  the  pursuit  of  Cornwallis,  he  having  reached 
one  shore  with  his  army,  when  his  pursuer  appeared  on  the 
opposite  bank.  Salisbury  was  a  pleasant  village,  containing 
fifty  dwelling-houses  and  a  large  stone  prison.  The  road  to 
Charlotte,  in  Mecklenburgh  county,  was  equal  to  any  Enghsh 
turnpike,  and  traversed  a  beautiful  level. 

I  carried  letters  to  the  courteous  Gen.  Polk,  and  remained 
two  days  at  his  residence,  in  the  delightful  society  of  his  charm- 
ing  family.  Having  expressed  a  wish  to  visit  the  Catawba  In- 
dians, Gen.  Polk  accompanied  me  to  the  Indian  foot-path.  This 
I  pursued  alone  on  horseback,  leaving  Mills  with  my  carriage  at 
the  tavern.     My  curiosity  had  been  strongly  excited  to  see  an 


OR,   :N[EM0IRS   of   ELKANAH   WATSON.  257 

Indian  people  in  their  native  savage  condition,  that  I  might 
contrast  them  with  the  pohsh  and  refinement  of  France.  I 
confess  it  was  somewhat  trying  to  my  nerves  to  penetrate  thus 
soHtarily  without  a  guide  or  protector,  into  the  mazes  of  a 
gloomy  wilderness,  and  amid  the  haunts  of  a  savage  race. 

When  I  entered  the  first  village,  the  young  Indians  and 
squaws  lied  in  every  direction,  the  men  being  absent  on  a 
hunting  expedition.  It  was  sometime  before  I  could  find  the 
residence  of  their  king  or  chief,  New  Eiver,  alias  Gen.  Scott. 
At  length  an  old  squaw  pointed  to  a  log  house,  where  I  was 
kindly  received  by  the  old  king,  on  his  crutches.  He  spoke 
no  English,  and  to  induce  him  to  send  for  a  person  to  inter- 
pret between  us,  I  intimated  by  signs,  thai  I  had  an  impor- 
tant communication  to  make.  On  this,  he  dispatched  a  run- 
ner across  the  Catawba  river,  for  an  interpreter.  In  about 
an  hour  his  cabin  was  thronged  by  the  savage  warriors,  and 
among  them  one  who  had  been  educated  at  William  and 
Mary  College,  a  sensible  and  well-informed  person;  but  a 
perfect  Indian  in  liis  appearance  and  habits.  I  stated  to  them 
the  probability  of  a  new  war  with  England,  on  account  of  that 
government  having  retained  the  western  posts  on  our  territory, 
in  violation  of  the  treaty  of  peace.  The  king  lit  up  a  large 
pipe,  and  we  each  took  three  or  four  whifis.  I  produced  mv 
bottle  of  rum,  my  only  credential.  We  circulated  the  bottle 
and  pipe  alternately,  drinking  from  the  furmer,  without  the 
intervention  of  any  other  vessel.  I  observed  every  counte- 
nance sedate  and  attentive,  and  although  they  appeared  warmly 
interested  in  the  event,  they  maintained  in  the  discussion  in 
which  they  engaged,  the  utmost  decorum,  one  only  speaking 
at  a  time.  In  this  council,  and  strolling  through  the  village 
with  the  educated  Indian,  I  spent  the  residue  of  the  daj. 
vVe  entered  their  cabins,  where  1  saw  several  straight-limbed, 
handsome  young  girls,  daubed  with  paint,  and  decorated  with 
feathers,  rings,  and  brooches. 

Afterwards  I.  proceeded  to  a  white  tavern,  where  I  laid 
down  in  my  clothes,  with  my  pistols  under  my  head.  My 
curiosity  was  but  partially  satisfied,  and  I  returned  the  next 
day    to    the   Indian    wigwam;  obtaining  all  the  information 

17 


258  MEN   AND   TIMES   OF   THE   REVOLUTION; 

I  desired,  and  seeing  enough  to  afford  abundant  sources  of  re- 
flection and  meditation.  I  found  among  them  a  degree  of 
civil  hospitality  and  submissive  kindness,  which  would  have 
done  no  discredit  to  their  white  neighbors.  The  wife  of  the 
chief  fed  my  horse,  and  supplied  me  with  a  meal  of  smoked 
venison,  placed  in  a  small  tub  upon  the  floor.  She  did  all  in 
her  power  to  render  me  comfortable,  if  not  with  the  grace  of 
a  Parisian  lady,  undoubtedly  with  equal  kindness  of  heart. 

These  Indians  were  extremely  nasty,  wallowing  in  dirt  and 
filth,  having  coarse  fare  and  rude  accommodations.  In  common 
with  every  other  Indian  tribe  in  proximity  to  the  whites, 
they  exhibited  a  melancholy  picture  of  the  singular  and  fatal 
ravages  of  the  vices,  with  which  they  became  contaminated 
from  an  association  with  their  civilized  neighbors.  Thirty 
years  before,  the  Catawbas  had  been  a  terror  to  the  Southern 
Colonies,  but  were  now  objects  of  contempt.  They  are  reduced 
to  about  1,000  persons.  The  old  chief  was  a  hardy  veteran. 
The  lines  of  his  face,  the  force  of  his  eyes,  and  the  expres- 
sion of  his  countenance,  commanded  respect,  and  evinced 
powerful  traits  of  mind  and  character.* 

From  this  intresting  and  novel  excursion,  I  continued  my 
journey  to  Camden,  South  Carolina,  along  the  Waxhaws  set- 
tlement, passing  Hanging-rock  and  Flat-rock.  At  the  former 
Gen.  Sumpter  annihilated,  by  a  "  coup-de-main,'"'  the  Prince 
of  Wales  regiment  in  '81.  Hanging-rock  is  an  immense  isolated 
rock,  about  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  lying  immediately  on 
the  verge  of  a  precipice  one  hundred  feet  in  height ;  on  one 
side  it  is  shelving,  and  presents  a  cavity  ample  enough  to 
contain  fifty  men.  Flat-rock  is  a  great  natural  curios- 
ity. A  solid  isolated  rock  lying  upon  the  surface,  and  cover- 
ing an  area  of  two  and  a  half  acres.  I  here  descended  into 
a  pine,  sandy  region,  within  a  few  miles  of  Camden  ;  passing 
over  the  ground  occupied  by  Gates  and  Green  in  1780  and 
'81 ;  and  surveyed  the  various  positions  of  their  conflicts.  The 
former  was    totally   and    the    latter    partially    defeated;    but 

*  The  following  notice  circulated  in  the  papers  of  1820  :  "  Gen.  Scott,  the 
venerable  Chief  of  the  Catawbas,  recently  died  at  the  advanced  age  of  one  hun- 
dred years,  after  having  been  the  ruler  of  the  tribe  for  more  than  half  a  century." 


259 


Green's  defeats  were  always  connected  with  victories,  in  their 
consequences.  No  vestiges  of  these  sanguinary  battles  re- 
mained upon  their  theatres,  but  shattered  trees,  and  the  unburi- 
ed  bones  of  men  and  horses. 

I  saw  at  Camden,  the  tomb,  inclosed  by  a  decent  paling,  in 
which  reposed  the  ashes  of  the  gallant  De  Kalb  and  several 
British  officers.  Gen.  Polk  informed  me  that  he  was  present  at 
the  interview  in  which  Green  superseded  Gates.  Gen.  Polk 
had  been  in  Gates'  commissariat,  and  Green  occupied  the 
whole  of  the  first  night  after  he  assumed  the  command,  with 
him,  in  investigating  the  resources  of  the  country ;  and  Gen. 
Polk  added,  that  Green  on  the  following  morning  better  under- 
stood them,  than  Gates  had  done  in  the  whole  period  of  his 
command. 

Camden  is  situated  on  a  plain,  near  the  river  Wateree,  and 
then  contained  about  fifty  dwellings.  It  commanded  a  valuable 
interior  trade  in  tobacco,  flour,  deer-skins,  indigo,  and  beef. 
These  commodities  were  transported  to  Charleston  by  a 
circuitous  and  expensive  water-carriage,  down  the  Santee,  and 
around  Bull's  Island.  'The  construction  of  a  canal  was  then 
contemplated,  to  unite  the  Wateree  with  the  head  waters  of 
•  the  Cooper,  which  has  since  been  accomplished,  and  much 
shortens  and  facilitates  this  communication.  After  remain- 
ing several  days  at  Camden,  occupied  in  exploring  this  highly 
interesting  district,  I  returned  to  Hillsboro',  without  the 
occurrence  of  any  important  incident. 

Wearied  with  the  monotony  and  tedium  of  an  unoccupied 
life  in  a  public  hotel,  I  started,  on  a  pleasant  afternoon,  from  a 
sudden  impulse,  on  horseback,  without  baggage,  and  with  no 
settled  plan — forded  the  Eno,  and  dashed  off'  in  a  southern  direc- 
tion. At  length  I  entered  upon  an  open  space  in  Chatham,  en- 
closed by  a  forest  of  lofty  pines.  Here  stood  a  solitary  log  tavern, 
occupied  by  the  landlady  only,  with  several  young  negro  children 
frolicking  at  the  door.  I  was  hardly  seated,  after  a  fatiguing  ride, 
when  a  gaunt,  raw-boned  fellow  entered,  whose  appearance, 
voice,  and  manner,  at  once  excited  my  apprehension.  He  was 
armed  with  a  rifle  and  tomahawk,  and  was  in  dress  and  aspect, 
awhite  savage.    I  commenced  a  movement  to  extricate  myself. 


2G0  MEN   AND   TIMES   OF   THE   EE VOLUTION  ; 

''Why  in  such  haste?"  he  exclaimed,  in  a  hoarse  and  hollow 
voice;  "stop  a  little,  I  have  something  to  say  to  you!"  At 
this  moment  the  landlady  appeared,  evidently  much  agitated, 
and  by  a  gesture  intimated  that  I  should  acquiesce.  For  an 
instant,  I  was  determined  to  put  him  at  defiance  ;  but  the 
manner  of  the  woman,  and  the  consciousness  that  I  was 
unarmed  and  totally  in  his  power,  induced  me  to  submit.  I 
accordingly  settled  myself  in  a  chair  by  the  side  of  my  new 
and  strange  associate,  to  be  governed  by  circumstances. 

It  was  obvious  that  a  drinking  bout  was  in  his  view.  I 
hoped  to  use  that  circumstance  to  effect  my  extrication. 
Slapping  him  upon  the  shoulder,  1  pronounced  him  a  hearty 
fellow,  and  desired  the  hostess  to  supply  us  a  bowl  of  whisky 
toddy.  We  drew  a  little  deal  table  between  us,  and  no  two 
topers  ever  sat  down  in  apparently  higher  glee.  He  told 
obscene  stories,  which  he  compelled  the  landlady  to  come  in 
and  hear.  I  pushed  the  bowl  to  him  freely ;  he  sang  various 
loathsome  doggerels,  yelling  in  chorus  with  hideous  peals  of 
laughter.  He  called  on  me  to  smg ;  I  protested  I  knew  noth- 
ing but  French  songs;  he  insisted  I  should  give  one  of  those, 
and  I  bellowed  forth  an  impromptu  jargon,  which  I  pronounced 
French.  After  the  second  bowl  had  been  demolished,  chiefly 
by  himself,  as  I  was  cautious  merely  to  taste  of  it,  he  became 
more  restless,  dragged  in  the  affrighted  woman,  and  insisted 
upon  a  dance,  yelhng  and  capering  about  the  room  like  a 
Bedlamite.  Returning  to  the  table  he  called  for  more  liquor; 
the  sun  was  about  setting,  and  I  was  at  a  loss  when  the 
disgusting  scene  would  terminate. 

At  length,  to  my  inexpressible  joy  his  tongue  grew  thick, 
his  eyes  heavy,  and  his  head  gradually  sank  upon  the  table. 
At  the  first  snore  I  slipped  off  to  the  adjoining  room,  and  was 
soon  speeding  away  through  the  intricacies  of  the  forest. 
The  hostess  informed  me  that  he  was  a  man  of  fortune,  had  a 
lovely  wife,  owned  forty  negroes  and  a  large,  well-stocked 
plantation,  but  spent  most  of  his  time  in  this  lawless,  vagabond 
life,  and  that  in  these  moods  he  was  extremely  quarrelsome 
and  dangerous. 

A    gentleman    from    Kentucky,    with    whom    I    became 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  261 

acquainted  at  Hillsboro',  informed  me  that  the  country  was 
settled  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  west  of  that  place ;  that 
the  land  was  excellent,  being  elevated,  abundantly  supplied 
with  good  water,  and  that  the  country  was  salubrious.  Still  be- 
yond  this  territory,  he  described  a  station  where  the  emigrants 
concentrate  and  unite  in  masses,  like  the  eastern  caravans,  to 
traverse  a  wilderness  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  without 
a  dwelling,  and  extending  to  Crab  Orchard,  on  the  confines  of  the 
Kentucky  settlements. 

On  the  10th  of  November  I  resumed  my  journey  towards  the 
low  country,  where  the  people  appeared  like  walking  anato- 
mies. I  travelled  slowly  along  the  northern  shore  of  the 
Roanoke,  charmed  by  the  country  and  the  courteous  and 
elegant  hospitality  of  the  affluent  planters  whom  I  visited.  At 
the  Cashie  river,  which  enters  the  Roanoke  near  Albemarle 
Sound,  I  was  pained,  although  amused,  in  observing  a  device 
more  ingenious  than  honest,  practised  by  a  New-England  crew, 
in  the  purchase  of  corn.  The  grain  was  measured  on  the 
quarter-deck  near  the  centre,  and  as  the  process  commenced, 
a  fellow  began  to  play  a  gig  on  a  violin,  and  all  the  spare 
hands  engaged  most  vehemently  in  dancing.  The  deck 
seemed  remarkably  elastic,  and  no  doubt  the  per-centage  of 
corn  gained  by  this  operation  was  very  considerable. 

In  April,  '87,  I  pm'chased  a  plantation  of  640  acres  upon  the 
Chowan  river,  with  extensive  buildings,  ware-houses,  and  other 
appurtenances  attached.  Here  I  spent  the  following  summer, 
actively  engaged  in  making  improvements  on  the  estate,  in 
exploring  the  country,  and  in  agreeable  association  with  the 
society. 

In  one  of  these  excursions,  I  accompanied  a  prominent 
planter  at  his  urgent  solicitation,  to  attend  a  cock-fight  in 
Hampton  County,  Virginia,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  We 
reached  the  ground  about  ten  o'clock  the  next  morninir.  The 
roads,  as  we  approached  the  scene,  were  alive  with  carriages, 
horses,  and  pedestrians,  black  and  white,  hastening  to  the 
point  of  attraction.  Several  houses  formed  a  spacious  square^ 
jU  the  centre  of  which  was  arranged  a  large  cock-pit;   sur- 


262  MEN   AND   TIMES   OF   THE   REVOLUTION; 

rounded  by  many  genteel  people,  promiscuously  mingled  witli 
the  vulgar  and  debased.  Exceedingly  beautiful  cocks  were 
produced,  armed  with  long,  sharp,  steel-pointed  gaffs,  which 
were  firmly  attached  to  their  natural  spurs. 

The  moment  the  birds  were  dropped,  bets  ran  high.  The 
little  heroes  appeared  trained  to  the  business,  and  not  the 
least  disconcerted  by  the  crowd  or  shouting.  They  stepped 
about  with  great  apparent  pride  and  dignity ;  advancing 
nearer  and  nearer,  they  flew  upon  each  other  at  the  same 
instant  with  a  rude  shock,  the  cruel  and  fatals  gafts  being 
driven  into  their  bodies,  and  at  times,  directly  through  their 
heads.  Frequently  one,  or  both,  were  struck  dead  at  the 
first  blow,  but  they  often  fought  after  being  repeatedly  pierced, 
as  long  as  they  were  able  to  crawl,  and  in  the  agonies  of 
death  would  often  make  abortive  efforts  to  raise  their  heads 
and  strike  their  antagonists.  I  soon  sickened  at  this  barba- 
rous sport,  and  retired  under  the  shade  of  a  wide-spread 
willow,  where  I  was  much  better  entertained  in  witnessing  a 
voluntary  fight  between  a  wasp  and  spider. 

In  viewing  the  crowd,  I  was  deeply  astonished  to  find  men 
of  character  and  intelligence  giving  their  countenance  to  an 
amusement  so  frivolous  and  scandalous,  so  abhorrent  to  every 
feeling  of  humanity,  and  so  injurious  in  its  moral  influence,  by 
the  inculcation  of  habits  of  gambling  and  drinking,  in  the 
waste  of  time,  and  often  in  the  issues  of  fiofhting  and  duelling. 

During  this  period  of  my  residence  in  North  Carolina,  the 
State  was  strongly  convulsed  by  the  agitation  of  the  question 
of  adopting  the  Federal  Oonstitution.  I  embarked,  with  great 
zeal  and  ardor,  in  advocating  its  adoption,  personally  and  by 
numerous  contributions  to  the  press,  in   "Virginia  and  North 

Carolina.     A  Baptist  preacher  named  B was  a  candidate 

for  the  State  Convention,  which  was  to  decide,  in  that  State, 
the  great  question  of  acceding  to  or  rejecting  the  proposed 
-Constitution.  B was  a  prominent  leader  of  the  opposi- 
tion, and  with  him  I  had  been  engaged  in  many  warm  personal 
discussions,  and  in  a  public  correspondence. 

The  week  previous  to  the  election,  I  was  riding  in  company 


OK,    :MEM0IES   of   ELKANAH    WATSON.  263 

with  Major  Murfee,  who  has  been  already  introduced  to  the 
reader,  and  a  Dr.  Garvey,  a  warm-hearted  and  energetic  Irish- 
man, several  miles  in  the  interior  from  Winton,  where  we 
noticed  a  paper  pasted  upon  a  tree,  which  read  as  follows  : 
'*  Notice ! — On  Wednesday  next,  at  three  o'clock,  all  persons 
desirous  of  hearing  the  new  Constitution  explained,  by  Elder 

B 1,  are  requested  to  attend  his  church  in  the  Woodlands, 

I7th  March,  1788."  The  time  appointed  was  only  two  days 
previous  to  the  election. 

We  felt  indignant,  at  what  w^e  deemed  an  insidious  attempt 
to  deceive  the  community  ;  and  determined  to  be  present,  in 
order  to  counteract  his  movement.  On  our  arrival  we  found 
a  horse  hitched  to  every  tree  about  the  church,  and  the  inte- 
rior of  the  building  crowded.     We  pressed  our  way  into  seats, 

a  little  distance  from  the  pulpit.     B 1  had  been  some  time  at 

his  nefarious  work,  explaining  the  Constitution  to  suit  his  un- 
hallowed purposes.  He  frequently  cast  a  suspicious  and  dis- 
concerted eye  upon  our  pew.  He  then  began  to  explain  the 
object  of  the  ten  miles  square,  as  the  contemplated  seat  of  the 
Government.  "  This,  my  fi'iends,"  said  the  preacher,  "  will  be 
walled  in  or  fortified.  Here  an  army  of  50,000,  or,  perhaps, 
100,000  men,  will  be  finally  embodied,  and  will  sally  forth,  and 
enslave  the  people,  who  will  be  gradually  disarmed."  This 
absurd  assumption  set  our  blood  in  fermentation,  strongly  ex- 
cited already  by  party  feeling.  We  consulted  a  moment,  and 
agreed  to  possess  ourselves  of  the  seat  directly  under  the  pul- 
pit, and  make  an  effort  to  discuss  the  subject,  or  break  up  the 
meeting.  We  aro^ie  together,  Garvey  with  the  Constitution  in 
his  hand,  supported  by  Murfee  on  his  right,  and  myself  on  his 
left.  Garvey  turned  towards  B 1,  and  said,  in  a  loud  voice : — 

"  Sir,  as  to  the  te:i  miles  square,  you  are" — here  he  was  in- 
terrupted by  a  general  movement  and  buz,  which  instantly 
swelled  into  a  perfect  uproar.  At  this  crisis  we  were  in  a 
most  critical  situation,  and  only  saved  f-om  violence  by  the 
personal  popularity  of  Murfee,  who  was  universally  beloved. 
We  were  glad  to  pass  out  with  the  torrent,  gain  our  horses, 


264  MEN"   AKD   TIMES   OF   THE   REVOLUTIOK 


and  be  off.  We  however  attained  our  object — the  meeting 
was  dissolved. 

The  next  day  Garvey  and  myself  planned  and  executed  a 
caricature  ;  and  as  it  was  a  new  exhibition  among  the  people, 
we  hoped  it  would  have  a  good  effect  at  the  polls.  A  clergy- 
man was  represented  in  a  pulpit,  dressed  in  his  bands,  with  a 
label  proceeding  from  his  mouth,  having  this  inscription  : — 
"  And  lo,  he  brayeth  !"  This  we  committed  to  some  resolute 
fellows,  with  instructions  to  post  it  up  at  the  door  of  the  court- 
house, on  the  opening  of  the  polls  ;  they  engaging  to  defend 

and  protect  it.     Some  of  B t's  friends  stung  to  the  quick  by 

the  sarcasm,  attempted  to  pull  it  down.  Our  gallant  band  de- 
fended it.  A  general  battle  ensued.  This  obstructed,  as  we 
desired,  the  voting.  Candles  were  lighted  in  the  court-house  ; 
these  were  extinguished  in  the  melee,  and  both  parties,  in 
great  confusion,  were  left  in  the  dark,  literally  as  well  as  polit- 
ically.    I  embraced   the  opportunity  of  taking  French  leave. 

B 1   gained  the  election,  to  our  great   annoyance,  and  the 

Constitution  was  rejected  for  that  year,  by  North-Carolina. 

I  spent  the  succeeding  winter  in  dreary  seclusion  at  my  es- 
tablishment. Disappointed  in  the  purposes  I  had  contemplated 
in  my  location,  I  determined  to  dispose  of  my  estate.  This  I 
effected,  and  sailed  early  the  ensuing  spring  in  a  vessel  of  my 
own  for  Rhode-Island.  We  descended  the  Chowan  Riven 
sailed  over  Albemarle  and  Pamlico  Sounds,  and  crossed  Ocra- 
coke  bar.  The  first  night  we  were  driven  by  the  wind  under 
the  south  shore  of  Cape  Hatteras,  and  anchored  in  the  most 
hazardous  navigation  on  the  coast  of  America.  In  ten  days 
we  reached  Providence  without  accident.  I  returned,  after 
an  absence  of  more  than  two  years,  to  New-England,  bearing 
with  me  features  so  changed  and  tawny,  that  a  second  time  I 
was  not  recognized  by  my  father,  and  was  obliged  to  tell  him 
my  name. 


OE,    MEMOIKS   OF    ELKANAH   WATSON.  265 


CHAPTER     XXII. 

Materials  for  the  Work — Marriage — Springfield,  Western  Massachusetts — 
Hudson — Albany — John  De  Neuville — Schenectady — Col.  Talbot — 
Johnson  Hall — Mohawk  Valley — German  Population — Revolutionary 
Suflierings — Site  of  Utica — Privations — Whitesborough — Settlers — 
Mohawks— Gen.  Herkimer— Battle-Field— Indians— Fort  Stanwix — 
Treaty — Wood  Creek— Inland  Navigation— Peter  Otscquelte — De 
scent  of  the  Mohawk — Site  of  Troy — Lansingburgh— Half-Moon — 
Cohoes  Fa'le — The  Hudson — Romance  in  Real  Life— Thiilling  In- 
cident— Residence  in  Albany — Freedom  of  the  City — Local  Improve- 
ments— Albany  Bank — Incident — Grave  of  Franklin — Last  Inter- 
terview  with  him — Franklin  and  Adams. 

The  arranged  and  revised  Auto-Biography  of  Mr.  Watson 
closes  with  his  return  from  North  Carolina.  His  manuscripts, 
embracing  his  subsequent  life  and  correspondence,  constituting 
many  volumes,  were  left  in  a  detached  and  undigested  condi- 
tion. Original  journals  of  personal  incidents  and  tours,  and 
notices  of  men  and  events,  comprehending  a  later  period  of 
nearly  half  a  century,  and  an  immense  mass  of  correspondence, 
although  unarranged,  are  in  a  state  of  perfect  preservation,  and 
susceptible  of  being  easily  systematized.  These,  and  the 
newspaper  productions  called  forth  by  the  numerous  and  diver- 
sified projects,  he  either  initiated  or  discussed,  and  which 
would  occupy  volumes  for  their  reproduction,  and  the  several 
works  which,  during  this  period  he  published,  constitute  the 
materials  and  elements  which  I  propose  to  compress  and  di- 
gest, in  concluding  the  work  the  author  had  commenced. 

Under  these  circumstances,  I  have  determined  to  adopt  the 
narrative  arrangement  in  my  compilation,  intending,  wherever 
practicable,  to  incorporate  the  original  productions  in  their  ap- 
propriate connection.  I  design,  in  the  further  progress  of  the 
work,  to  group  together  notices  of  persons  and  incidents  as 
they  are  naturally  associated,  rather  than  to  be  governed  by 
any  strict  chronological  order.     In  the  anterior  life  of  Mr. 


266 


Watson,  he  had  occupied  an  attitude  of  observation  ;  from 
this  period  it  assumed  a  new  character,  that  of  projection  and 
execution. 

In  the  year  1784,  Mr.  Watson  married  Miss  Rachel  Smith, 
daughter  of  Daniel  Smith,  Esq.,  of  Norton,  Massachusetts. 
His  Memoirs,  after  an  union  of  nearly  threescore  years,  re- 
cords this  just  and  touching  tribute  : — 

"  Never  was  man  more  blessed  with  an  amiable,  pious,  and 
virtuous  wife.  Wherever  my  wandering  steps  have  been  led, 
by  chance  or  caprice,  she  has  been  beloved  by  all  classes.  To 
me  she  has  been  everything." 

In  the  August  succeeding  his  return  from  North  Carolina, 
Mr.  Watson  was  called  by  his  affairs  to  the  western  part  of 
Massachusetts.  The  desire  of  change,  and  the  prompting  of  his 
inquiring  mind,  impelled  him  onward,  guided  by  no  specific  pur- 
pose, and  with  no  limits  to  his  time,  in  the  indulgence  of  these 
impulses. 

On  this  tour  he  left  Providence  12th  of  Ausfust,  1788  ;  he 
described  the  country  in  traversing  Connecticut,  to  Springfield, 
as  rough,  but  containing  some  small  villages  and  pleasant  locali- 
ties highly  improved.  Springfield  contained  about  two  hundred 
buildings,  many  of  superior  quality,  and  a  refined  society.  The 
high  culture  and  fertility  of  the  Connecticut  valley,  excited 
his  admiration.  The  roads  from  Springfield  to  Great  Barring- 
ton  were  intolerable  ;  passing  over  acclivities  of  mountains,  and 
through  gorges  that  appeared  nearly  inaccessible  to  carriages. 
The  country  was  sparsely  inhabited  by  a  rude  population. 
Great  Barrington  was  then  a  pleasant  inland  village,  surround- 
ed by  a  rich,  romantic,  and  mountainous  scenery.  He  visited 
the  "  new  City  of  Hudson,"  first  then  starting  into  being, 
through  the  energy  and  enterprise  of  New-England  emigrants, 
and  exhibitino^  a  progress  at  that  period  almost  without  a  par- 
allel in  American  history.  It  had  emerged  from  a  Dutch  farm, 
into  the  position  of  a  commercial  city,  with  a  considerable 
population,  warehouses,  wharves,  and  docks,  rope-walks,  ship_ 
ping,  and  the  din  of  industry.     All   these   remarkable  results 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  267 

had  been  accomplished  in  the  brief  term  of  four  years.     The 
streets  were  broad  and  spacious. 

Curiosity  conducted  him  to  the  '*  old  Dutch  City  of  Albany," 
that  he  might  compare  their  habits  and  manners  with  those  of 
the  cities  of  Holland,  from  whence  their  ancestors  had  emi- 
grated more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  before ;  the  one 
Surrounded  by  the  progress  ard  refinement  of  Europe,  and  the 
other  in  contact  with  savage  barbarism.  At  that  period  Albany 
was  the  second  city  in  the  State,  containing  about  six  hundred 
dwellings,  generally  constructed  on  the  old  Dutch  model,  but  was 
rapidly  modernizing,  as  well  in  its  architecture  as  customs.  The 
city  he  regarded  as  awkwardly  situated  upon  the  declivity  of 
a  hill.  The  houses  were  principally  of  brick,  and  many  of 
them  elegant.  Vessels  of  eight  feet  draught  plied  constantly  and 
in  great  numbers  between  the  city  and  New- York.  The  trade 
was  immense,  and  rapidly  increasing.  A  branch  of  this 
trade,  formerly  of  great  value,  had  then  become  nearly  ex- 
tinct— the  traffic  in  furs,  which  the  British  had  found  means 
to  avert  from  this  avenue,  chiefly  by  the  ascendency  they 
derived  from  their  forts,  within  our  own  territory. 

The  inhabitants  were  mostly  Dutch,  attached  to  their  own 
customs,  and  cherishing  their  national  prejudices.  As 
foreigners  intermixed  with  them,  these  peculiarities  were 
relaxing,  and  insensibly  softening.  They  had  generally  adopt- 
ed in  the  instruction  of  their  children  the  English  tongue,  by 
the  establishment  of  English  schools.  Mr.  Watson  expressed 
in  his  journal,  the  prediction  that  the  Dutch  language,  in  half  a 
century,  would  be  unknown  in  that  city  as  a  spoken  language. 

He  proceeded  eight  miles  from  Albany  to  the  new  glass- 
house, erected  by  John  De  Neuville,  a  former  correspondent 
of  Mr.  Watson,  and  an  inhabitant  of  Amsterdam.  Mr.  De 
Neuville  was  the  negotiator  of  the  treaty  made  by  Holland 
with  the  American  Congress,  which  essentially  produced  the 
war  between  the  former  and  England  in  1781.  He  commenced 
business  with  an  hereditary  capital  of  half  a  million  ster- 
ling, and  lived  in  Amsterdam  and  at  his  country-seat  in  the 
highest  affluence  and  splendor.     He  sacrificed   his  fortune  by 


268  MEK  AND   TIMES   OF   THE   EEVOLUTION  ; 

his  attachment  to  the  cause  of  American  Independence,  and  in 
his  efforts  to  sustain  it.  The  fragments  of  his  estate  he  had 
invested  in  the  hopeless  enterprise  of  estabhshing  this  glass- 
factory.  Mr.  Watson  found  this  gentleman,  born  to  affluence, 
in  a  solitary  seclusion,  occupying  a  miserable  log  cabin  fur- 
nished with  a  single  deal  table  and  two  common  chairs — desti- 
tute of  the  ordinary  comforts  of  life. 

Mr.  Watson  visited  Schenectady.  Here  an  academy  had  been 
founded,  which  he  then  regarded  with  interest,  as  an  import- 
ant step  in  advancing  the  cause  of  education.  Jn  subsequent 
years,  when  this  feeble  embryo  had  expanded  into  a  college, 
he  became  w^armly  and  actively  enlisted  in  the  promotion  of 
its  prosperity  and  usefulness. 

He  continued  from  Schenectady  to  Johnson  Hall,  the 
former  seat  of  Sir  Wilham  Johnson,  then  owned  by  Col. 
Silas  Talbot,  an  officer  of  great  revolutionary  distinction,  whom, 
it  will  be  remembered,  Mr.  Watson  aided  in  his  escape  from 
Mill  Prison  in  England.  Johnson  Hall  was  a  stately  mansion? 
occupying  an  eminence,  which  looked  over  the  village  of 
Johnstown,  and  a  wide  expanse  of  beautiful  country. 

"  The  country,"  he  writes,  "  between  Schenectady  and  Johns- 
town, was  well  settled  by  a  Dutch  population,  generally  in  a 
prosperous  condition ;  but  behind  New-England  in  affluence 
and  progress.  1  have  had  frequent  occasion  to  remark, 
from  all  I  have  observed  and  collected  in  my  intercourse 
with  various  nations,  that  no  ao^ricultural  people  are  in  equal 
enjoyment  of  the  comforts  of  life,  afforded  by  good  dwellings, 
and  the  abandance  of  food  and  raiment,  as  the  farmers  of 
New-England.  Yet  they  complain  of  hard  times.  Let  any 
of  them  visit  foreign  countries,  and  witness  the  destitution, 
the  suffering  and  persecution  of  the  agricultural  class,  wdiich 
everywhere  prevail,  and  their  lips  would  be  ever  after 
sealed  against  any  complaint."  He  learned  from  Col.  Talbot 
the  occurrence  of  an  Indian  treaty  at  Fort  Stanwix,  and  was 
induced  by  this  circumstance,  to  extend  his  tour  to  that 
point. 

From  Johnson  Hall,  he  proceeded  up  the  Mohawk,  through 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  269 

a  rich  region  under  high  cultivation,  and  adorned  by  luxuriant 
clover  pastures.  This  lovely  valley  v^as  almost  on  a  level  with 
the  river,  and  was  bounded  on  the  north  by  a  lofty  range  of 
hills,  whose  cliffs  at  times  seemed  impending  over  him.  The 
fields  were  only  separated  by  gates,  with  no  fences  on  the 
road-sides.  The  beauty  of  the  country,  the  majestic  appear- 
ance of  the  adjacent  mountains,  the  state  of  advanced 
agriculture,  exhibited  in  a  long  succession  of  excellent  farms, 
and  the  rich  fragrancy  of  the  air,  redolent  with  the  perfume 
of  the  clover,  all  combined  to  present  a  scene,  he  was  not  pre- 
pared to  witness,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk. 

This  valley  w^as  subjected  to  inundations  which  not  un- 
frequently  wasted  the  labors  of  a  season,  and  much  deprecia- 
ted the  apparent  value  of  these  estates.  Travelling  the  whole 
day  through  tbis  land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey,  he  was 
not  only  surprised,  but  seriously  distressed  by  the  total  ab- 
sence of  all  accommodations  for  the  relief  and  comfort  of  the 
traveller. 

The  territory  known  as  the  German-ilats  had  been  lono- 
inhabited,  and  was  densely  occupied  by  a  German  population. 
This  people  had  suffered  severely  during  the  w^ar  of  Indepen- 
dence, from  the  ravages  of  the  Tories  and  Indians,  and  had  been 
nearly  extirpated.  Impressive  vestiges  of  these  events  were 
exhibited  throughout  the  entire  district.  Their  safety  was 
only  secured  by  the  erection  of  numerous  block-houses,  which 
were  constructed  ,  upon  commanding  positions,  and  often 
mounted  with  cannon.  Many  of  these  structures  were  vet 
standing,  and  were  seen  in  every  direction. 

The  sufferings  and  sacrifices  of  this  population,  has  few 
parellels  in  the  atrocities  of  civil  w^ar !  He  entered  into  no 
family  in  which  be  did  not  hear  of  thrilling  recitals  of  the  massa- 
cre of  some  branch  of  it  by  ferocious  barbarians,  who  carried 
fire  and  the  sword  through  their  settlements,  or  of  some  ap- 
palling scene  of  danger  and  suffering  connected  with  its 
own  history.  This  entire  people  for  many  years  were  expos- 
ed to  constant  alarm  and  agitation.  Without  knowledge  or 
suspicion   of  the  immediate   approach  of  their  ruthless  foes, 


270  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF   THE   REVOLUTION; 

settlements  were  burst  upon  and  devastated  at  one  swoop,  in 
blood  and  flames,  while  the  same  tragic  scene  was  often 
renewed  the  succeeding  night,  by  the  same  bands,  in  some 
other  remote  and  equally  unsuspecting  community. 

On  the  second  evening  after  leaving  Johnson  Hall,  he 
reached  a  miserable  log  tavern,  six  miles  from  old  Fort  Schuy- 
ler, which  stood  upon  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Utica. 
This  tour  proved  an  important  epoch  in  the  public  career  of 
Mr.  Watson,  and  I  therefore  present  the  original  language  of  his 
Journal,  in  order  more  distinctly  to  present  his  views  and 
opinions  at  that  period. 

Extract  from  the  Journal:  "Sept.  1788. — From  Col. 
Sterling's  I  began  to  traverse  the  wilderness  bordering  upon 
the  Indian  territory.  The  road  is  almost  impassable;  I  was 
upwards  of  three  hours  in  reaching  the  Mohawk  opposite  old 
Fort  Schuyler,  a  distance  of  only  six  miles,  Here  1  reluctantly 
forded  the  river,  being  alone  and  without  a  guide,  and  both 
shores  alive  with  savages.  Having  fasted  twenty-four  hours, 
in  consequence  of  a  severe  head-ache  the  day  previous,  I  was 
by  this  time  excessively  hungry  and  fatigued.  As  there  was 
no  tavern,  and  only  a  few  scattering  houses,  I  proceeded  to  an 
old  German  log  house,  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  and  inter- 
ceded for  something  to  eat.  At  length,  after  much  difficulty, 
I  prevailed  on  an  ill-natured  German  woman  to  spare  me  two 
ears  of  green  corn  and  some  salt.*' 

"The  road  from  thence  to  Whitesborough  continued  as  bad 
as  possible,  obstructed  by  broken  bridges,  logs,  and  stumps,  and 
my  horse,  at  every  step,  sinking  knee-deep  in  the  mud.  I 
remained  one  day  recruiting  at  Judge  White's  log  house,  the 
founder  of  the  settlement,  and  slept  in  his  log  barn,  with 
horses  and  other  animals.f 

*  f  extract  this  fact  from  m^  original  Journal,  as  illustrative  of  the  progress  of 
that  region.  I  never  suffered  more  from  hunger  in  all  my  wanderings,  than  I 
did  in  1788,  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  large  and  flourishing  village  of 
Utica.     (1821  ) 

t  "  It  could  hardly  have  been  supposed  within  the  range  of  possibility,  that  it 
would  fall  to  my  lot  to  march  by  the  side  of  President  Lansing,  and  head  a  pro- 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  271 

"  Whitesborough  is  a  promising  new  settlement,  situated  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  river,  in  the  heart  of  a  fine  tract 
of  land,  and  is  just  in  its  transition  from  a  state  of  nature  into 
civilization.  The  settlement  commenced  only  three  years 
since.  It  is  astonishing  what  efforts  are  making  to  subdue  the 
dense  and  murky  forest.  Log  houses  are  already  scattered  in 
the  midst  of  stumps,  half-burnt  logs,  and  girdled  trees.  I 
observed,  however,  with  pleasure,  that  their  log  barns  are  well- 
filled.  A  few  years  ago  land  might  have  been  bought  for  a 
trifle ;  at  present,  the  lots  bordering  upon  the  river  have 
advanced  to  three  dollars  per  acre,  and  those  lying  a  few  miles 
back,  at  one  dollar  per  acre. 

"  Settlers  are  continually  pouring  in  from  the  Connecticut 
hive,  which  throws  off  its  annual  swarms  of  intelligent,  indus- 
trious, and  enterprizing  emigrants — the  best  qualified  of  any 
men  in  the  world  to  overcome  and  civilize  the  wilderness. 
They  already  estimate  three  hundred  brother  Yankees  on  their 
muster  list,  and  in  a  few  years  hence  they  will  undoubtedly  be 
able  to  raise  a  formidable  barrier,  to  oppose  the  incursions  of 
the  savages  in  the  event  of  another  war. 

"At  Oriskany  I  passed  a  small  tribe  of  two  hundred  Indians, 
the  remnant  of  that  once  powerful  Mohawk  nation,  which  was 
the  former  terror  and  dread  of  the  New-England  frontier.  On 
ascending  a  hill,  I  approached  the  place  where  the  intrepid  Gen. 
Herkimer  was  drawn  into  a  fatal  ambush  and  miserably  defeat- 
ed, in  1777.  Herkimer  was  a  gallant,  but  inexperienced  leader, 
and  here  perished,  with  nearly  half  his  army,  formed  of  the 
patriotic  yeomanry  of  the  Mohawk  valley.  Just  before  reach- 
ing this  sanguinary  battle-field,  I  met  two   Germans   familiar 


cession  of  two  hundred  respectable  farmers,  in  presence  of  several  thousand 
spectators,  into  a  Church  on  this  very  spot,  exactly  thirty  years  after  this  occur- 
rence, and  there  proclaim  the  premiums  of  an  Agricultural  Society,  and  address 
them  as  follows  :  •  It  is  now  thirty  years  this  month  since  I  lodged  in  a  log* 
barn,  belonging  to  Judge  White,  near  the  spot  from  which  I  am  now  addressing 
you.  This  blooming  vale  was  then  just  emerging  from  a  wilderness,  and  the  bloody 
footsteps  of  our  savage  foe.  Behold  now  an  apparently  old  country,  bearing  on 
its  surface  the  refinements  of  civilized  life.'  " 


272 

with  its  incidents.  They  conducted  me  over  the  whole  ground, 
and  in  corroboration  of  the  fact,  of  which  they  assured  me,  that 
many  of  the  slain,  who  were  scattered  through  the  woods,  were 
never  interred,  I  noticed  numerous  human  bones,  strewn  upon 
the  sui'face  of  the  earth.  This  movement  was  intended  to 
succor  Fort  Stanwix,  then  beseiged  by  St.  Leger. 

"I  found  myself,  soon  after  leaving  this  consecrated  spot, 
alone  in  the  woods,  in  the  midst  of  a  band  of  Indians,  "as 
drunk  as  lords."  They  looked  like  so  many  evil  spirits  broken 
loose  from  Pandemonium.  Wild,  frantic,  almost  naked,  and 
frightfully  painted,  they  whooped,  yelled,  and  danced  around 
me  in  such  hideous  attitudes,  that  I  was  seriously  apprehensive 
they  would  end  the  farce  by  taking  off  my  scalp,  by  way  of  a 
joke.  I  had  luckily  picked  up  the  word  Sago,  the  salute  of 
friendship,  of  which  I  made  copious  application,  constantly 
extending  my  hand  to  the  most  active  among  them,  by  whom 
it  was  cordially  accepted. 

"  On  my  arrival  at  Fort  Stanwix,  I  found  the  whole  plain 
around  the  fort  covered  with  Indians,  of  various  tribes,  male 
and  female.  Many  of  the  latter  were  fantastically  dressed  in 
their  best  attire — in  the  richest  silks,  fine  scarlet  clothes,  bor- 
dered with  gold  fringe,  a  profusion  of  brooches,  rings  in  their 
noses,  their  ears  slit,  and  their  heads  decorated  with  feathers. 
Among  them  I  noticed  some  very  handsome  countenances 
and  fine  figures. 

"I  luckily  procured  a  sleeping-place  in  the  garret  of  the 
house  in  which  Gov.  Clinton  and  the  eight  other  commission- 
ers— also  John  Taylor,  Esq.,  of  Albany,  Indian  Agent — Egbert 
Benson,  Esq.,  of  New- York,  and  a  man  with  a  large  white  wig, 
by  the  name  of  Dr.  Taylor — were  quartered.  The  sight  of 
this  wig  fixed  the  attention,  and  excited  the  mirth  of  many  of 
the  Indians,  one  of  whom  I  noticed  making  strong  efforts  to 
smother  a  laugh  in  the  Doctor's  face,  since  nothing  could 
appear  more  ludicrous  and  grotesque  to  an  Indian,  than  a 
bushy  white  wig. 

"The  object  of  this  great  treaty  is  to  procure  a  cession 
from  the  Indians,  of  territory  lying  west  of  Fort  Stanwix,  in 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON".  273 

this  State,  and  extending  to  the  great  lakes.  Fort  Stanwix 
was  built  in  1758,  by  the  British  Government,  at  a  cost  of 
£60,000,  and  is  situated  on  an  artificial  eminence,  near  the 
river;  a  large  area  around  it  is  entirely  cleared.  Here  Col. 
Gansevoort,  in  1777,  sustained  a  terrible  siege,  until  relieved 
by  Arnold,  when  St.  Leger  made  a  precipitate  retreat,  aban- 
doning most  of  his  camp  equipage  and  munitions.  The 
French  Ambassador,  Count  Moutier,  and  the  Marchioness  De 
Biron,  are  now  encamped  within  the  Fort,  under  a  marqu^ 
formerly  used  by  Lord  Cornwallis.  This  enterprising  and 
courageous  lady  has  exposed  herself  to  the  greatest  fatigues 
and  privations  to  gratify  her  unbounded  curiosity,  by  coming 
all  the  way  from  the  city  of  New-York,  to  witness  this  great 
and  unusual  assemblage  of  savage  tribes. 

"  In  contemplating  the  position  of  Fort  Stanwix,  at  the  head 
of  bateaux  navigation  on  the  Mohawk  river,  within  one  mile 
of  Wood  Creek,  which  runs  west  towards  Lake  Ontario,  I  am 
led  to  think  it  will  in  time  become  the  emporium  of  commerce 
between  Albany  and  the  vast  Western  world.  Wood  Creek 
is  indeed  small,  but  it  is  the  only  water  communication  with 
the  great  Lakes  ;  it  empties  into  the  Oneida  Lake,  the  outlet 
of  which  unites  with  the  Onondaga  and  Oswego,  and  dis- 
charges into  Lake  Ontario  at  Fort  Oswego,  where  the  British 
have  a  garrison.  Should  tlie  Little  Falls  be  ever  locked,  the 
obstructions  in  the  Mohawk  river  removed,  and  a  canal 
between  that  river  and  Wood  Creek  at  this  place  be  formed, 
so  as  to  unite  the  waters  flowing  east  with  those  running  west, 
and  other  canals  made,  and  obstructions  removed  to  S'ort 
Oswego — who  can  reasonably  doubt  that  by  such  bold  opera- 
tions, the  State  of  New- York  has  within  her  power,  by  a  grand 
measure  of  policy,  to  divert  the  future  trade  of  Lake  Ontario, 
and  the  great  lakes  above,^from  Alexandria  and  Quebec  to 
Albany  and  New-Y^ork  ? 

"  The  object  of  the  present  treaty  is  the  purchase  of  an  im- 
mense territory,  estimated  at  eight  millions  of  acres,  and  now 
owned,  and  chiefly  inhabited,  by  the  Six  Nations  of  Indians. 
The  sovereignty  of  this  tract  has  been   in  dispute  between 

18 


274  MEN  AND  TIMES  0^  THE  REVOLUTION 


Massachusetts  and  New- York.  These  States  have  at  length 
made  an  amicable  division,  assigning  four  milHons  of  acres  to 
each.  The  former  has  since  sold  her  right  of  domain  to  a 
company  of  adventurers,  who  have  purchased  preemption 
from  the  Indians.  New- York,  by  this  treaty,  has  accomplished 
the  same  result.  This  vast  territory  therefore,  is  now  opened 
without  any  impediments,  to  the  flood  of  emigration  which  will 
pour  into  it  from  the  East.  Many  hardy  pioneers  have  al- 
ready planted  themselves  among  the  savages ;  and  it  is  prob- 
able that  the  enthusiasm  for  the  occupation  of  new  territory, 
which  now  prevails,  will  in  the  period  of  the  next  twenty 
years,  spread  over  this  fertile  region  a  prosperous  and  vigorous 
population. 

*'  I  left  Fort  Stanwix  with  the  intention  of  passing  down 
Wood  Creek  to  Lake  Ontario,  indulging  the  idea  of  extending 
my  tour  to  Detroit.  Cinder  the  strong  presentiment  that  a 
canal  communication  will  he  opened,  sooner  or  later,  between  the 
great  lakes  and  the  Hudson,  I  was  anxious  to  explore  its  prob- 
able course.  A  hard  rain  commencing,  and  the  obstacles  I 
found  to  exist  in  the  creek,  induced  me  however  to  abandon 
the  arduous  enterprize,  and  return  to  Fort  Stanwix.  The  at- 
tempt afforded  me  the  gratification  of  sailing  west  for  the  first 
time,  in  the  interior  of  America. 

"  I  continued  several  days  at  the  Treaty,  passing  my  time 
most  agreeably,  in  associating  with  the  Commissioners,  and 
much  divertedj  by  the  novel  and  amusing  scenes  exhibited  in 
the  Indian  camp.  The  plain  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort  has 
already  been  laid  out  into  a  towm-plot ;  a  few  houses  have  been 
erected,  and  also  saw-mills,  and  other  improvements,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  on  Wood  Creek. 

"  A  young  Indian,  named  Peter  Otsequett,  a  Chief  of  the 
Oneidas,  was  also  attending  this  Treaty ;  he  had  just  returned 
from  France,  having  been  in  that  country  for  several  years, 
under  the  patronage  of  the  Marquis  Lafayette,  by  whom  he 
was  taken  when  a  boy.  He  is  probably  the  most  polished  and 
best  educated  Indian  in  North  America.  He  speaks  both 
French  and  English  accurately ;  is  familiar  with  music  and 


OB,   MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  275 

many  branches  of  polite  and  elegant  literature  ;  and  in  his 
manners  is  a  well-bred  Frenchman.  He  is,  however,  a  striking 
instance  of  the  moral  impracticability  of  civilizing  an  Indian. 
There  appears  to  exist  natural  impediments  to  their  ameliora- 
tion. While  visiting  the  Catawba  Indians  a  year  since,  I  be- 
came acquainted  with  a  young  Indian,  who  had  been  educated 
at  a  prominent  college ;  but  had  already  fallen  into  the  degra- 
dation of  his  native  savage  habits,  and  was  to  all  intents  an 
Indian.  It  is  noticed  that  each  year,  in  its  progress,  wears  off 
the  European  polish  of  Otsequett,  and  brings  him  nearer  the 
savage.*  Ten  days  ago  I  was  introduced  to  him,  a  polite  and 
well-informed  gentleman,  to-day  I  beheld  him  splashing  through 
the  mud,  in  the  rain,  on  horseback,  with  a  young  squaw  behind 
him,  both  comfortably  drunk. 

"  My  curiosity  satisfied,  I  sent  my  horse  towards  Albany, 
and  embarked  on  board  a  returning  bateau,  and  proceeded 
down  the  Mohawk  to  Little  Falls,  anxious  to  examine  that 
place,  with  an  eye  to  canals.  We  abandoned  ourselves  to  the 
current  of  the  river,  which,  with  the  aid  of  our  oars,  impelled 
us  at  a  rapid  rate.  We  met  numerous  bateaux  coming  up  the 
river,  freighted  with  whole  families,  emigrating  to  the  '  land 
of  promise.'  I  was  surprised  to  observe  the  dexterity  with 
which  they  manage  their  boats,  and  the  progress  they  make  in 
polling  up  the  river,  against  a  current  of  at  least  three  miles 
an  hour.  The  first  night  we  encamped  at  a  log-hut  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  the  next  morning  I  disembarked  at 
German  Flats. 

"  The  meanderings  of  the  river,  by  my  estimate,  about 
doubles  the  distance  of  a  direct  line.  We  passed  a  valuable 
tract  of  16,000  acres  of  land,  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  which  has  been  granted  by  the  State  to  Baron  Steuben. 

*  I  have  since  been  assured  by  a  gentleman,  who  knew  Otsequett  near  the 
close  of  his  life,  that  he  actually  degenerated  below  the  ordinary  level  of  savages. 
His  refined  education  in  France,  commencing  when  a  boy,  had  divested  him  of 
those  masculine  virtues  which  are  engrafted  on  the  Indian  character.  Having  lost 
these,  he  possessed  no  traits  of  high  qualities  to  sustain  him,  and  abandoning 
himielf  to  the  bottle,  he  ultimately  became  an  abandoned  vagabond.    (1321.) 


276 


From  Schenectady  I  pursued  the  road  across  a  thickly  settled 
country,  embracing  many  fine  farms,  to  Ashley's  Ferry,  six 
miles  above  Albany.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river,  at  this 
point,  a  new  town  has  been  recently  laid  out,  named  Vander- 
heyden.*  This  place  is  situated  precisely  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Hudson.  Several  bold  and  enterprising  adven- 
turers have  already  settled  here  ;  a  number  of  capacious  ware- 
houses, and  several  dweUings,  are  already  erected.  It  is  favor- 
ably situated  in  reference  to  the  important  and  growing  trade 
of  Vermont  and  Massachusetts  ;  and  I  believe,  it  not  only  bids 
fair  to  be  a  serious  thorn  in  the  side  of  New  City,t  but  in  the 
issue  a  fatal  rival. 

"  I  spent  a  day  in  examining  this  locality,  and  then  walked 
on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  to  New 
City,  where  I  continued  several  days.  This  place  is  thronged 
by  mercantile  emigrants,  principally  from  New-England,  who 
have  enjoyed  a  very  extensive  and  lucrative  trade,  supplying 
Vermont  and  the  region  on  both  banks  of  the  Hudson,  as  far 
as  Lake  George,  with  merchandize  ;  and  receiving  in  payment 
wheat,  pot  and  pearl  ashes,  and  lumber.  But,  as  I  remarked, 
I  think  Vanderheyden  must,  from  its  more  eligible  position,  at- 
tain the  ultimate  ascendancy. 

"  I  crossed  the  river  at  Half-Moon,  a  small  hamlet  contain- 
ing about  twenty  dwellings  ;  and  about  a  mile  from  this  place 
I  visited  the  Cohoes  Falls,  upon  the  Mohawk  River.  Nothing 
so  much  charms  and  elevates  my  mind  as  the  contemplation  of 
nature  in  her  bold  and  majestic  works.  Fixing  my  position 
on  the  margin  of  the  bank,  which  descends  in  a  vertical  preci- 
pice of  about  seventy  feet,  I  beheld  the  volume  of  the  Mohawk, 
plunging  over  a  fall  of  about  the  same  height,  and  nearly  per- 
pendicular. The  barrier  of  rocks — the  lofty  banks — the  roar- 
ing and  dashing  of  the  ^waters — and  the  cloud  of  mist,  pre- 
sented a  spectacle  of  surprising  sublimity.  The  river  divides 
immediately  below  the  Falls  into  three  branches,  and  empties 


*  The  original  name  of  the  present  beautiful  city  of  Troy. 
t  TJie  city  of  Lansingburgh  was  then  known  by  that  name. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  277 

into  the  Hudson,  nearly  opposite  New  City.  The  bed  of  the 
stream  is  filled  with  rocks,  among  which  it  rushes  and  surges 
in  terrific  impetuosity. 

"  In  the  view  of  ascending  by  locks  from  the',  Hudson  into 
the  Mohawk  River,  it  appears  to  me  that  the  obstacles  at  this 
place  will  be  much  greater  than  to  cut  a  canal  across  the  pine 
plains,  into  a  grand  basin,  back  of  Albany.  I  took  passage  in 
a  bateau  at  New  City,  to  Albany,  for  the  purpose  of  sounding 
the  river.  The  result  of  my  examination  satisfied  me,  that  in 
ordinary  tides  five  or  six  feet  may  be  carried  to  within  a  mile 
of  New  City,  and  from  thence  to  that  town  fifteen  to  eighteen 
inches.  The  tides  sensibly  rise  and  fall  as  far  up  as  Vander- 
heyden. 

"  Upon  careful  investigation  and  mature  reflection,  it  ap- 
pears to  my  mind  that  Albany  is  one  of  the  most  favorable  po- 
sitions in  America  for  the  future  enjoyment  of  a  vast  internal 
commerce.  It  is  favorably  situated  in  reference  to  the  trade 
of  Vermont  and  the  extensive  eastern  country.  It  may  con- 
trol the  fur  trade  of  the  lakes  ;  it  must  occupy  the  avenues 
which  penetrate  into  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  ;  and  will  be 
the  depot  of  the  produce  from  the  luxuriant  territory  of  tbe 
Genesee." 

From  Albany,  Mr.  Watson  proceeded  to  New- York  by  a 
packet,  and  occupied  three  days  in  the  passage.  He  speaks  of 
the  Overslaugh  three  miles  below  Albany,  as  sounding  only  eight 
feet  of  watei,  while  immediately  below  it  deepens  to  twelve  or 
fourteen  feet,  and  suggests  that  the  impediment  might  be 
removed  by  closing  two  channels,  and  throwing  the  whole 
current  of  the  river  into  the  third.  This  obstacle  being 
removed,  he  expresses  the  opinion  that  Albany  would  become 
a  mart  of  foreign  commerce. 

The  beautiful  and  richly  cultivated  banks  of  the  Hudson, 
the  thriving  villages  that  adorned  its  shores,  the  majestic  pas- 
sage of  the  Highlands,  the  imposing  scenery  they  presented, 
the  stupendous  works  at  West  Point,  exceeding  in  number, 
strength,  and  position,  anything  he  had  before  seen,  excited 
the  warmest  enthusiasm  and  admiration.     His  impression  of 


278  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

that  noble  river  had  been  exalted,  but  he  remarks  that  he  had 
formed  most  inadequate  conceptions  of  its  many  beauties,  and 
of  its  immense  importance  not  only  to  the  State,  but  the  en- 
tire Union. 

''  The  following  curious  romance  in  real  life,"  Mr.  Watson 
remarks  in  his  journal,  "  which  came  to  my  knowledge 
about  this  time,  was  familiar  to  me  in  its  general  features, 
and  I  knew  intimately  the  prominent  actors  in  it.*'  About 
the   year  1780,  while  I  was  in  France,  my  father  removed 

from  Plymouth  to  a  farm  in  upon   river.      On 

the  opposite  side,  and  about  two  miles  above  them,  was  a 
pretty  village  named principally  inhabited  by  rich  half- 
Quakers.     Among  them  lived ,  distinguished  as  one 

of  the  richest  men  in  New  England.  He  was  originally  a 
ship  carpenter,  but  possessing  an  active  and  vigorous  mind, 
in  reference  to  men  and  money-making,  he  had  by  a  long 
course  of  usury,  and  taking  and  exacting  the  forfeiture  of 
mortgages  upon  many  of  the  best  farms  of  that  region,  and 
having  also  several  ships  in  foreign  trade,  accumulated  an  im- 
mense fortune.  His  industry  and  efforts  were  unremitted,  and 
in  the  pursuit  of  his  great  object,  he  had  drawn  tears  of  blood 
from  many  an  eye — and  heart  too.  He  was  a  raw-boned, 
powerful  and  athletic  man,  possessed  of  iron  nerves,  but  not  a 
drop  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness  flowed  in  his  cold  and 
fish-like  veins. 

"  His  great  wealth  procured  him  in  marriage  a  very  fine* 
lady-like  wife,  with  a  cash  fortune  of  £40,000.  This  man  was 
regarded  as  the  scourge  of  the  community,  but  still  he  had  some 
good  qualities,  and  always  exercised  a  generous  hospitality 
under  his  own  roof. 

"  He  had  two  sons  ;  John,  the  eldest,  was  a  sheer  clown,  the 
counterpart  of  his  father  in  form,  but  of  a  liberal  and  kindly 


*  Mr.  Watson,  in  his  manuscripts  from  which  this  episode  is  transcribed,  give* 
the  names  and  localities  of  this  story,  with  an  injunction  that  it  should  not  be 
disclosed  until  the  lapse  of  a  specified  period,  which  has  now  expired.  In  the 
suppression  of  the  names  of  persons  and  places,  I  may  I  think,  exhibit  the  moral 
the  tale  inculcates,  without  doing  violence  to  the  feelings  of  any  descendants  o' 
the  parties,  if  they  still  eurvive, — Editor. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  279 

feeling,  with  however  a  propensity  to  gambling.  His  educa- 
tion had  been  miserable,  and  in  mind  and  appearance  he 
could  scarcely  claim  superiority  over  the  most  indigent  strip- 
ling of  his  age.  For  this  the  father,  whose  god  was  money, 
had  much  to  answer. 

"  At  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war,  he  had  a  vessel 
arrive  from  Jamaica  ladened  with  rum.  He  despatched  her 
to  Boston,  and  sent  his  son  over-land  to  sell  the  cargo  as  his 
initiation  upon  the  commercial  stage.  But  the  cargo  and 
son  both  disappeared,  and  no  trace  was  discovered  of  him 
until  some  years  afterward,  I  think  in  1789. 

''  It  subsequently  appeared  that  John  fell  into  the  hands  of 
some  sharpers  at  Boston,  who  soon  relieved  him  from  the 
avails  of  the  cargo  of  rum.  John  dreading  his  father  from 
his  infancy,  instautly  fled  into  the  interior  in  secresy,  and 
directed  his  course  to  the  Ohio  river,  and  from  thence,  in 
order  to  elude  all  traces  of  him,  he  proceeded  into  the  midst 
of  the  Miami  Indians,  where  he  married  a  young  squaw  and 
had  by  her  two  or  three  children. 

"  Some  years  after,  becoming  disgusted  with  savage  life,  he 
left  his  wife  and  children  and  returned  to  the  Ohio,  and  fol- 
lowed the  river  as  a  boatman.  In  the  winter  of  that  year 
he  became  a  common  laborer  in  the  streets  of  New-Orleans. 
While  engaged  one  day  in  sawing  wood  at  the  door  of  a 
Spaniard,  John  saw  a  Major  D ,  a  gentleman  from  New- 
England  whom  he  well  knew  passing  by,  and   accosted  him 

by  name.     Major  D turned,  and  saw  this  miserable  object 

in  filth  and  rags^  ^'^Df^  you  speak  to  me,  my  lad  ?"  "  Yes, 
sir — don't  you  know  me?"     "Know  you!  how  should  I?  who 

are  you?"     "  I  have  seen  you  often  at  my  father's  in ," 

replied   John.     "  Who   is  your  father  ?"     " ,   sir." 

"You  are  an  impostor!"  rejoined  Major  D.,  **it  can't  be  so." 
John,  however,  did  not  lose  sight  of  D.,  but  shouldering  his 
saw,  followed  him  to  his  quarters,  and  stated  some  facts  which 
began  to  stagger  the  incredulity  of  D.  John  narrated  his 
story  after  his  departure  from  his  father's  house.  Yet  D. 
was  skeptical ;  but  as  John  pressed  him  very  earnestly  to  be 


280  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION 


taken  to  Philadelphia  in  any  capacity,  assuring  him  that  on 
his  arriv^al  there  he  would  convince  him  that  he  was  no 
impostor;  Major  D.  agreed  to  procure  him  an  opportunity 
to  work  his  passage  to  that  city.     To  this  John  assented. 

''  On  their  arrival  at  Philadelphia,  Major  D.  was  astonished  to 
find  that  John  was  recognised  by  his  father's  correspondents, 

H and  A ,  and  that  they  were  apprized  of  the  rum 

adventure.  They  stated  that  the  father  had  been  for  several 
years  in  deep  despondency,  under  the  conviction  that  his  son 
had  in  all  probability  committed  suicide,  to  escape  his  harsh 
severity. 

"  Mr.  A.  took  John  into  the  bosom  of  his  own  family,  clothed 
and  fed  him  sumptuously.  But  this  sudden  transition  from 
abject  want  to  abundance  was  too  much  for  John,  and  subject- 
ed him  to  a  severe  sickness.  As  soon  as  he  was  convalescent, 
Mr.  A.  wrote,  as  he  afterwards  informed  me,  to  the  father. 
It  so  happened  that  I  was  passing  down  Crane's  wharf  and 
met  him  just  landed,  on  his  way  to  Philadelphia  to  meet 
John ;  but  as  I  had  just  left  John  in  Hacker  Tavern  at  the 
head  of  the  wharf,  where  he  had  arrived  the  evening  before,  I 
had  the  singular  good  fortune  to  conduct  the  agitated  fathe^ 
into  the  presence  of  his  returning  prodigal  son. 

"  With  the  exception  of  the  meeting  of  my  uncle  Winslow  and 
his  son  Ned,  ten  or  twelve  years  previous,  I  have  never  wit- 
nessed a  more  affecting  scene.  They  clung  to  each  other  in  a 
most  awkward  manner,  but  in  speechless  emotion,,  for  several 
minutes.  There  was  a  refinement  of  heart  and  sentiment  in 
the  Winslow  group  on  Prudence  Island,  which  had  no  paral- 
lel on  this  occasion. 

"  This  story  in  all  its  circumstances,  was  considered  unpre- 
cedented in  New-England.  But  to  add  another,  and  deeper  inci- 
dent to  the  drama :  the  whole  country  in  the  ensuing  Septem- 
ber resounded  with  the  news  that  John's  abandoned  wife, 
accompanied    by   her    brother,   a     Miami    Indian,    and    two 

papooses,  had  arrived  at  .     Money  w^orks  wonders — they 

disappeared  in  a  twinkling.  John  afterwards  married  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  accomplished  women  in  Rhode  Island. 


OE,    MEMOIES  OF  ELKAIs^AH  WATSON.  281 

As  if  Heaven  in  wrath  had  destined  him  to  demolish  a  fortune 
wrung  from  the  anguish  and  sufferings  of  hundreds,  by  deaths 
in  the  family  and  the  will  of  his  father,  the  largest  portion  of 
this  vast  estate  fell  into  the  hands  of  John.  It  melted  away,  in 
a  manner  unseen  and  incomprehensible.  In  ten  years  he  was 
a  bankrupt,  in  penury,  and  in  the  most  grinding  want  ever 
afterward.  He  subsequently  went,  as  I  have  understood, 
in  the  capacity  of  a  common  sailor  to  the  coast  of  Africa, 
and  there  died.  More  than  one  impressive  moral  may  be 
deduced  from  this  story,  which  rests  upon  incontestible  facts, 
and  is  known  to  hundreds,  remnants  of  the  last  generation,  yet 
living." 

The  journal  of  Mr.  Watson  narrates  an  occurrence  of  an 
exciting  character,  in  which  he  was  apparently  exposed  to  a 
tragic  and  most  appaUing  fate. 

"  I  spent  one  month  in  the  city  of  New- York,  after  my  return 
from  the  Treaty  at  Fort  Stanwix,  and  arrived  at  Newport  on 
the  8d  of  December,  1788,  after  a  furious  passage  of  sixteen 
hours   from    New- York,    and   resumed   my    old    quarters    at 

H ,    who    kept    a    boarding-house    in   a   building   which 

belonged  to  Col.  Malborn. 

"  This  H had  been  a  British  officer,  and  his  father  was, 

as  he  alleged,  a  former  governor  of  the  Island  of  Guernsey. 

H sold  out  his  commission  at  the  close  of  the  war  for 

the  purpose  of  marrying  a  celebrated  courtezan  connected 
with  the  army,  with  whom  he  had  fallen  in  love.  Although  she 
had  been  depraved,  she  possessed  many  excellent  qualities, 
was  humane  and  generous,  as  many  American  prisoners 
abundantly  testified.  Her  person  was  elegant  and  her  feel- 
ings benevolent,  and  at  this  period  she  was  not  only  reformed, 
but  pious. 

"  H was   a  man  of  vicious  habits,  and  yet   most  of  the 

respectable  Southern  travellers  resorted  to  his  fashionable 
establishment  in  their  summer  sojourn.  These  I  found  on 
my  arrival  had  all  migrated  with  the  birds  in  pursuit  of  a 
milder  climate  on  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  and  not  a 
sohtary  boarder  remained  to  keep  me  company.     Here  I  con- 


282  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

tinued  two  weeks.     The  first  Sunday  after  breakfast  H 

invited  me  to  walk  out  with  him.  I  at  first  declined,  but  was 
prevailed  upon  by  his  urgency.  He  promised  to  show  me  a 
great  natural  curiosity.  We  proceeded  across  a  plain  about 
two  miles  in  a  southeast  course,  where  he  conducted  me 
to  the  brink  of  a  vertical  precipice,  with  rock  piled  on  rock  at 
its  base  at  least  fifty  feet  below.  The  hideous  and  chaotic  confu- 
sion of  these  masses,  which  had  evidently  been  rent  from  the 
structure  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  had  given  to  the  scene 
the  name  of  Purgatory,  or  the  Devils'  Hole  by  others.  The  ori- 
ginal formation  of  the  coast  had  manifestly  been  indented,  as 
if  the  whole  wall  had  been  scooped  out,  and  the  fragments 
dashed  in  utter  dislocation  at  the  foot  of  the  abyss  in  con- 
fused heaps,  their  sharp  points  projecting  in  every  direction. 

"  To  view  this  work  of  nature,  people  approach  with  great 
caution  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice.  The  fragments  of  rock 
at  the  bottom  were  so  broken  and  pointed  as  to  ensure  instant 
annihilation  to  any  living  creature  that  should  be  precipitated 
from  the  summit  of  the  cliff.  Their  base  is  overflowed  at 
flood  and  left  naked  at  ebb  tide.     It  was  low  water  when 

H allured  me  to  the  place.     In  this  position,  leaning  upon 

my  cane  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  I  contemplated  with 
surprise  and  interest  two  large  rocks,  once  evidently  united, 
but  now  separated  into  two  parts,  and  lying  some  distance 
asunder. 

"  In  the  face  of  the  wall  millions  of  swallows  made  their  se- 
cure nests  among  the  interstices  of  the  rocks.  This  circum- 
stance gave  a  peculiar  relief  and  animation  to  the  dreary 
scene. 

"After  awhile  I  became  satisfied  with  gazing  on  the  won- 
derful exhibition,  and   withdrew,   but  H urged  me  with 

great  importunity  to  return  to  the  brink  a  second  time ;  although 
without  suspicion,  I  resisted  his  solicitations,  and  returned 
homeward.  I  dined  and  went  to  my  chamber.  I  there  found 
my  trunk,  which  contained  a  bag  of  gold  and  silver  that 
was  just  then  of  infinite  importance  to  me,  unlocked.  I  felt 
for  the  bag  with  much  apprehension, — but  it  was  gone. 


OE,    MEMOIES  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  283 

"  The  conviction  flashed  upon  my  mind  that  H had  cher- 
ished a  diabolical  purpose  in  alluring  me  with  so  much  solici- 
tude to  that  sequestred  spot.  I  at  once  reverted  to  his  strange 
and  excited  conduct  on  the  cliff,  which  I  had  noticed  without 
heeding. 

"My  suspicions  were  immediately  fastened  upon  him  as  the 
author  of  the  robbery,  but  I  first  summoned  his  wife,  who 
came  as  usual,  cheerfully  and  frankly.  1  explained  my  disas- 
ter, when  she  became  ghostly  pale  and  clasped  her  hands  in 
agony,  protesting  her  own  innocence,   but  added,  "  I  cannot 

answer  for  H ,  although  I  have  no  cause  of  suspicion.'' 

"  Sit  still,"  I  said,  "  and  be  silent."     I  then  proceeded  to  the 

head  of  the  stairs  and  called  H several  times.     He  at 

length,  in  a  faltering  voice,  answered,  and  came  forward  with 
hesitation  and  manifest  reluctance.  When  he  reached  where 
I  stood,  his  countenance  exhibited  the  clearest  evidence  of 
guilt.     As  he  approached,  I  seized  him  by  the  arm,  and  looking 

sternly  and  fixedly  in  his  eye,  "Why  do  you  tremble,  H- ? 

what  is  the  matter  ?"  "  What  do  you  want,"  he  inquired.  "  I 
am  robbed,"  I  exclaimed,  "  in  your  house — and  you  are  the 
robber,  and  in  heart  a  murderer."  He  vehemently  asserted 
his  innocence.  I  had  him  however  committed,  but  allowed 
him  subsequently  to  be  discharged. 

"  A  few^  days  after,  the  bag  was  deposited  with  nearly  all  the 
money  at  my  room  door.  I  caused  H to  be  again  arrest- 
ed. He  soon  desired  an  interview  with  me  in  the  presence 
of  the  sheriff.  I  went  to  his  cell,  and  found  him  fearfully 
agitated.     His  whole  frame  shook  as  if  in  an  ague  fit. 

"  He  said  he  desired  to  unburthen  his  conscience  to  us.  I 
then  promised  to  proceed  no  further  against  him.  He  fell 
upon  his  knees,  confessed  his  guilt  of  the  robbery,  and  fervent- 
ly implored  the  forgiveness  of  God.  "  Tell  me,"  I  exclaimed 
solemnly,  "in  the  presence  of  that  God,  why  you  took  me  to  that 
precipice  ?"  "  With  the  intent,"  he  feebly  replied,  "of  murder- 
ing you."  After  some  further  conversation,  he  confessed  that 
he  once  approached  his  outspread  hand  within  a  few  inches 
of  my  back  whilst  I  was  resting  on  my  cane  and  gazing  over 


284  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

the  chasm,  with  the  purpose  of  hurling  me  into  the  abyss 
below — that  his  heart  failed  him  at  the  moment ;  but  if  I  had 
returned  the  second  time,  it  was  his  fixed  determination  to  ac- 
complish his  purpose,  and  by  my  destruction  to  escape  a  de- 
tection of  the  robbery. 

"He, was  released,  his  wife  separated  from  him,  and  in  twenty- 
four  hours  he  fled  from  Newport  forever.  I  met  him  fourteen 
years  afterwards  in  a  narrow  retired  street  in  Boston.  I  ac- 
costed him,  and  he  instantly  recognized  me.  He  was  greatly 
agitated  and  alarmed,  and  said,  that  for  many  years  he  had 
been  a  wandering,  homeless  vagabond  in  Nova  Scotia,  perpe- 
tually haunted  by  the  thought  that  the  guilt  of  my  intended 
murder  rested  upon  his  soul." 

In  the  ensuing  year,  1789,  Mr.  Watson  removed  from  Provi- 
dence to  Albany.  Among  the  curiosities  in  his  common-place 
book,  I  find  a  singular  document  which  I  deem  worthy  of  being 
perpetuated.  It  affords  evidence  that  our  country  at  that 
epoch  was  not  wholly  enfranchised  from  the  influence  of 
European  usages,  but  that  many  of  their  restrictions  and  exac- 
tions still  lingered. 

I  refer  to  a  certificate  of  the  freedom  of  the  city,  which  it 
seems  each  emigrant  was  required  to  possess,  to  be  secured  in 
the  enjoyment  and  protection  of  his  municipal  rights.  The 
following  is  a  copy  of  the  printed  document : 

"Know  all  men  hy  these  presents  that  I,  John  Lansing,  Jr. 
Esquire,  Mayor  of  the  city  of  Albany,  have  admitted  and 
received,  and  do  hereby  admit  and  receive,  Elkanah  Watson 
to  be  a  freeman  of  said  city.  In  witness  whereof,  I  have  here- 
unto set  my  hand,  and  caused  the  seal  of  the  said  city  to  be 
hereunto  annexed,  the  28th  day  of  May,  1790,  &c."  And  for 
this  certificate,  Mr.  W.  adds,  I  was  compelled  to  pay  five 
pounds.  This  abuse  was  early  and  vigorously  assailed  by  him 
in  the  press,  and  was  soon  after  abolished. 

I  am  now  approaching  an  epoch  in  the  life  of  my  father,  which 
to  myself  is  surrounded  with  embarrassment  and  difficulties. 
At  this  period  commenced  his  efforts  and  labors  in  projecting 
or  advocating  various  subjects  of  local  and  general  improve- 


285 


ments  of  the  most  diversified  character  and  objects,  and 
which  were  continued  to  tlie  close  of  his  life.  The  silence 
which  delicacy  might  prescribe  to  a  son,  it  appears  to  me, 
should  yield  to  the  paramount  obligations  imposed  by  the  rela- 
tion of  the  biographer  and  historian. 

The  circumstance,  that  these  efforts  gave  existence  to  and 
are  connected  with  much  of  the  valuable  correspondence  of 
distinguished  men,  which  I  design  to  introduce,  appears  to 
render  the  propriety  of  the  course  I  intend  to  adopt  still  more 
obvious.  I  propose  to  record  the  facts  connected  with  these 
subjects,  where  I  esteem  them  of  public  interest,  or  calculated 
to  elucidate  the  progress  and  history  of  the  country,  without 
comment  or  eulogium,  and  with  only  such  remarks  as  may  be 
necessary  to  explain  or  illustrate  them. 

At  the  time  of  Mr.  Watson's  settlement  in  Albany,  not  more 
than  five  New-England  families  were  residents  of  that  city. 
It  was^  without  any  foreign  commerce ;  the  city  was  unim- 
proved. State-street,  now  one  of  the  most  spacious  and  beau- 
tiful avenues  in  America,  was  then  not  only  without  pave- 
ments and  ungraded,  but  even  broken  and  in  some  parts 
precipitous.  The  streets  were  without  lamps.  A  singular 
deformity  and  inconvenience  prevailed  in  some  sections  of 
the  city.  A  custom  had  been  introduced,  which  existed  in 
the  provincial  towns  of  Holland,  of  discharging  the  water 
from  the  roofs  of  smaller  buildings  by  long  spouts.  In  Holland 
the  spouts  were  projected  over  the  canals ;  but  by  the  adop- 
tion of  this  practice  in  Albany  the  water  was  poured  upon  the 
head  of  the  unwary  passenger.  The  mind  of  Mr.  Watson,  famil- 
iar with  the  elegancies  and  advancement  of  European  cities,  at 
once  saw  and  appreciated  the  various  defective  arrangements 
in  the  city  of  his  adoption  ;  and  soon  after  becoming  a  resident, 
he  engaged  earnestly,  through  the  press  and  by  personal  efforts, 
in  suggesting  and  urging  various  local  improvements  connected 
with  these  subjects. 

His  exertions,  in  connection  with  the  labors  of  others,  gen- 
erally secured  their  adoption  ;  but  as  they  necessarily  entailed 
inconvenience  and  expense,  the  schemes  excited  strong  hos- 


286  MEN  AND  TIMES  OP  THE  REVOLUTION; 

tility  in  the  feelings  of  those  who  were  opposed  to  all  innova- 
ting projects.  In  subsequent  years  he  received  many  generous 
tributes  of  acknowledgments  and  thanks  from  those  who,  in  their 
progress,  had  opposed  these  efforts.  His  Journal  contains  a 
notice  of  an  amusing  incident,  which  exhibits  the  state  of 
feeling  he; had  excited  : 

"  Just  after  State-street  had  been  paved  at  a  heavy  expense, 
I  sauntered  into  it  immediately  succeeding  a  heavy  thunder- 
storm, and  whilst  regretting  the  disturbance  in  the  sidewalk, 
and  to  observe  the  cellars  filled  with  water,  (for  in  that  section, 
which  was  near  the  present  locality  of  the  State  Bank,  the 
street  in  grading  had  been  elevated  some  feet,)  I  heard  two 
women,  in  the  act  of  clearing  their  invaded  premises  from  the 
accumulation  of  mud  and  water,  cry  out — '  Here  comes  that 
infernal  paving  Yankee !'  they  approached  me  in  a  menacing 
attitude — broomsticks  erect.  Prudence  dictated  a  retreat  to 
avoid  being  broomsticked  by  the  infuriated  Amazons,  although 
I  did  not  run,  as  some  of  my  friends  insisted,  but  walked  off  at 
a  quick  pace." 

The  common-place  book  in  which  are  preserved  copies  of 
his  publications  on  these  and  kindred  subjects  of  local  and 
general  improvement,  attest  the  zeal  and  ardor,  as  well  as  the 
extent  and  industry,  of  his  labors.  Among  these  projects,  the 
charter  of  the  Bank  of  Albany,  the  first  banking  institution 
incorporated  north  of  New- York,  was  agitated,  and  I  have 
before  me  the  declaration  of  eminent  men  of  that  period,  who 
ascribed  to  his  efforts  its  successful  accomplishment. 

Whilst  visiting  Philadelphia  in  1792,  in  the  service  of  that 
Institution,  Mr.  Watson  spent  part  of  a  forenoon  in  seeking  the 
sequestered  grave  of  Franklin,  always  deriving,  he  remarked, 
a  peculiar  gratification  from  contemplating  even  the  sods  that 
cover  the  ashes  of  great  men.  His  last  interview  with  Frank- 
lin, who  was  then  eighty  years  of  age,  had  occurred  in  1786. 
*'0n  my  first  entering  the  room,"  Mr.  Watson  says,  "  he  observ- 
ed that  all  his  old  friends  were  dead,  and  he  found  himself  alone, 
in  the  midst  of  a  new  generation,  and  added  the  remark,  alike 
characteristic  of  the  man  and  the  philosopher, '  he  was  in  their 


OB,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  287 

way,  and  it  was  time  he  was  off  the  stage.'  Yet  he  delighted 
a  circle  of  young  people,  (for  he  was  a  most  instructive  com- 
panion to  youth  in  his  old  age,)  the  whole  evening,  with 
pleasant  anecdote  and  interesting  stories.  His  voice  was  very 
sonorous  and  clear,  but  at  the  same  time  hollow  and  peculiar." 

''  Franklin  was  the  first  and  greatest  of  American  philoso- 
phers— a  brilliant  star  in  the  galaxy  of  America's  best  bene- 
factors— a  child  of  nature,  destitute  of  early  literary  acquire- 
ments, yet  occupying  a  lofty  position  among  the  most  distin- 
guished literary  men  of  his  age.  His  own  history  will  most 
adequately  illustrate  his  useful  career  in  a  long  life  devoted  to 
the  promotion  of  the  happiness  of  his  fellow-men,  and  by  his 
last  will  dispensing  his  beneficence  centuries  after  his  decease. 
Franklin  was  not  averse  to  popular  applause  ;  he  loved  fame — 
not  the  blast  of  surreptitious  honors;  but  that  renown  which 
was  based  on  his  own  great  deeds. 

"  A  deep  estrangement  existed  between  Dr.  Franklin  and  Mr. 
Adams,  which  it  was  painful  to  observe  in  personages  so  wor- 
thy and  so  distinguished.  It  resulted  partly  from  personal 
occurrences,  and  to  some  extent  from  incidents  connected  with 
the  treaty  of  '83.  Too  much  subserviency  to  the  views  and 
interests  of  the  French  Government  was  by  many  imputed  to 
Dr.  Franklin  in  relation  to  the  fisheries  and  our  western 
boundary.  The  stern  and  successful  opposition  of  Mr.  Adams 
and  Mr.  Jay  on  these  points,  rendered  them  personally  unpop- 
ular at  the  French  Court,  while  Franklin  was  caressed,  and 
maintained  his  great  influence  at  Versailles  to  the  close  of  his 
mission.  Mr.  Jay  presented  a  generous,  and  I  think  trium- 
phant, vindication  of  the  purity  of  the  intentions  and  the  integ- 
rity of  Franklin. 


288  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   KEVOLUTION  ; 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

New  Lebanon  Springs— Shakers — Saratoga — Ballston — Western  Tour — 
German  Population— Mohawk  Valley— Bateau  Travelling— Night 
Bivouac — Fort  Stanwix — Wood  Creek— Canal  Improvements — Write 
Home — Oneida  Lake — Fish — Anticipations — Hermit— Fort  Brewer- 
ton  —  Onondaga  River  —  Salmon  —  Indian  Fishing — Indians— King 
Kiadote  and  Queen — Indian  Tongue — Seneca  River — Salt  Lake — 
Salt  Works— Canals. 

In  August,  1790,  Mr.  Watson  visited  New  Lebanon  Springs, 
and  "  was  compelled  to  make  the  journey  in  a  Shaker  wagon, 
there  being  no  regular  conveyance  to  that  place/'  These 
waters  he  found,  in  taste  and  temperature,  precisely  similar 
to  those  of  Matlock,  in  England.  He  attended  the  worship 
of  the  Shakers,  and  presents  the  following  description  of  that 
peculiar  people : 

"On  Sunday,  proceeded  to  the  Shaker  village,  about  three 
miles  from  the  Springs,  to  witness  their  singular  devotions. 
The  village  rests  upon  the  western  slope  of  a  mountain.  It  is 
built  on  one  wide  street,  the  houses  neat  and  scattering,  and  all 
painted  a  dull  yellow.  In  the  rear,  extensive  orchards  spread 
along  the  hill-side.  The  church  is  painted  a  pure  milk  white, 
one  story  high,  and  neat  and  simple  in  its  style.  The  men 
advanced  to  the  church  in  procession,  in  an  Indian  file ;  all 
entered  at  the  same  door,  and  took  their  seats  on  the  right 
side  of  the  building.  The  women  entered  at  another  door, 
and  occupied  seats  on  the  left  side  of  the  house ;  they  wore 
uniform  simple  dresses,  with  tight  caps.  There  were  about 
sixty  of  each  sex.  The  spectators  were  arranged  on  benches 
against  the  wall,  facing  an  open  area  appropriated  to  the 
dancing.  At  the  word,  the  Shakers  formed  into  solid  masses, 
of  a  triangular  form ;  the  brethren  in  one  column,  and  the 
sisters  in  another.  One  of  the  Elders  then  advancing  to  the 
front,  addressed    first    the  spectators,   soliciting    silence  and 


OE,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  289 

decorum — and  then  the  fraternity,  exhorting  them  to  keep  in 
their  own  path,  exhibiting  the  outer  world  as  lost,  but  that 
Shakers  are  sure  of  entering  the  straight  and  narrow  way 
which  led  to  life  eternal.  He  was  grossly  ignorant,  had  a 
hoarse  and  unpleasant  voice,  but  spoke  with  much  animation, 

*'  They  all  preserved  a  steadfast  gaze  upon  the  floor  with 
their  hands  clenched,  while  every  moment  some  individual 
would  give  a  convulsive  shake,  that  agitated  the  whole  frame. 
My  curiosity  was  deeply  excited,  and  I  closely  watched  every 
occurrence.  The  discourse  finished,  the  elder  ordered  them 
'to  prepare  to  labor,  in  the  name  of  the  Lord.'  At  once 
they  broke  their  ranks;  the  men  stript  off  their  coats,  the 
womenj  divested  themselves  of  all  superfluous  articles  of 
dress.  They  then  re-formed  in  the  same  order  with  the  cele- 
rity and  exactness  of  a  military  column. 

"The  day  was  hot.  Two  or  three  elders  commenced  a 
strange  cadence,  in  hollow  guttural  voices,  rendered  into  a 
sort  of  dancing  tune.  The  whole  mass — men,  women,  and 
children,  old  and  young,  black  and  white,  began  to  dance  or 
rather  move  most  awkwardly,  raising  their  right  knee  high 
up,  and  dropping  on  the  balls  of  their  feet,  the  left  foot  per- 
forming a  short  up  and  down  motion ;  all  advancing  and  re- 
tiring three  or  four  steps,  and  at  every  turn  of  the  tune, 
whirling  around  with  three  steps.  It  seemed  to  me  very  like 
the  movement  of  boys  at  school,  in  former  days,  when  pun- 
ished by  stepping  the  bare  feet  upon  a  hot  stove.  Among  the 
women  were  some  tall  oaks,  some  shrivelled  dwarfs,  and  some 
young  saplings.  Their  white  capped  heads  of  various  heights, 
bobbing  up  and  down  in  the  mazes  of  the  dance,  had  a  queer 
and  ridiculous  appearance. 

"  Although  friendly  to  religious  toleration  in  its  widest  lati- 
tude, I  was  disgusted  and  sickened  at  the  heart  in  contem. 
plating  the  revolting  scene.  My  aversion  was  excited  in 
witnessing  the  dignity  of  man  thus  debased,  and  his  destiny 
perverted  by  this  strange  fanaticism.  I  was  distressed  by  this 
solemn  mockery,  but  felt  no  disposition  to  laugh  or  sneer," 

"  In  subsequent  years,  an  intimate  intercourse  with  this  bro- 

19 


290  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

therhood,  formed  by  a  residence  in  their  vicinity,  gave  me  a 
full  knowledge  of  their  character.  I  found  them  generally 
sincere  in  their  profession,  strictly  moral,  industrious  as  a  hive 
of  bees,  and  rigidly  adhering  to  their  tenets.  The  directors 
exercise  despotic  power,  the  rest  labor  in  silence  and  submis- 
sion, accumulating  the  common  stock.  They  carry  on  many 
ingenious  manufactures." 

"  The  succeeding  September,  I  made  a  tour  to  the  mineral 
springs  at  Saratoga.  Here  I  spent  a  day  bathing  in  a  trough, 
and  drinking  the  exhilarating  water,  which  gushes  from  the 
centre  of  a  rock.  I  met  about  a  dozen  respectable  people 
sojourning  at  a  wretched  tavern.  The  wildness  of  the  region, 
and  the  excessively  bad  accommodation,  made  me  recur  to  the 
condition  of  Bath  in  the  barbarous  ages,  when  several  centuries 
before  Christ,  the  legend  was,  they  were  discovered  by  their 
salutary  effect  upon  a  herd  of  distempered  swine  wallowing 
in  the  mud. 

"  The  Saratoga  waters  were  discovered  about  twenty  years 
ago  (although  it  is  supposed  their  existence  was  known  to  the 
Indians,)  as  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Ball  of  Ballston,  in  follow- 
ing a  deer  track.  The  remarkable  medicinal  qualities  of  these 
Springs,  and  their  accessible  position,  must  render  this  spot^ 
at  some  future  period,  the  Bath  of  America.  At  present  it  is 
enveloped  in  rudeness  and^seclusion,  with  no  accommodations 
appropriate  to  civilized  man.  The  rock  through  which  the 
water  issues  by  a  narrow  passage,  has  been  probably  formed 
by  petrifaction.  Vessels  are  let  down,  through  this  fissure  or 
natural  well,  to  procure  the  water  for  drinking. 

"  There  is  no  convenience  for  bathing,  except  an  open  log 
hut,  with  a  large  trough,  similar  to  those  in  use  for  feeding 
swine,  which  receives  the  water  from  the  spring.  Into  this 
you  roll  from  off  a  bench.  This  water  appears  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  saline  ingredients,  highly  charged  with  fixed  air, 
and  almost  as  animated  as  Champaigne  wine.  Its  taste  is  grate, 
ful,  but  leaves  an  unpleasant  impression  upon  the  palate.  Those 
accustomed  to  it,  however,  regard  the  water  as  a  great  luxury 
It  is  in  high  estimation  as  a  specific  in  all  scorbutic  affections, 


OK,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  29l 


gout,  rheumatism,  &c.  These  waters  are  situated  in  a  marsh, 
partially  enveloped  by  slight  and  pretty  eminences,  along  the 
margin  of  which  the  road  winds.  A  little  off  from  the  high- 
way, I  visited  a  new  spring,  which  is  much  higher  charged 
with  mineral  elements.     This  is  called  the  Congress  Spring. 

"From  Saratoga  I  proceeded  to  Tryons,  a  low  one  story 
tavern  on  a  hill  in  Ballston.  At  the  foot  of  this  hill,  I  found 
an  old  barrel  with  the  staves  open,  stuck  into  the  mud  in  the 
midst  of  a  quag- mire,  surrounded  by  trees,  stumps,  and  logs. 
This  was  the  Ballston  Spring.  I  observed  two  or  three  ladies 
walking  along  a  fallen  tree  to  reach  the  fountain,  and  was 
disgusted  to  see  as  many  men  washing  their  loathsome  sores 
near  the  barrel.  There  was  also  a  shower  bath,  with  no  pro- 
tection except  a  bower  of  bushes.  Tryons  was  the  only  pub- 
lic house,  no  buildings  having  been  erected  below  the  hill. 
The  largest  number  of  visitors  at  one  period,  the  past  summer 
bad  been  ten  or  twelve,  and  these  were  as  many  as  could  be 
accommodated.'^ 

In  the  year  1791,  Mr.  Watson  accompanied  the  Hon.  Jere- 
miah Van  Eensselaer,  Gen.  Philip  Van  Cortlandt,  and  Stephen 
N.  Bayard,  Esq.,  in  an  extensive  tour  through  the  interior  of  New- 
York.  I  have  preserved  with  more  than  ordinary  minuteness 
the  incidents  and  observations  recorded  in  bis  daily  journal 
by  Mr.  Watson  in  the  course  of  his  journey.  A  description  of 
that  territory,  its  aspect  and  condition  at  this  early  period 
of  its  occupation,  narrated  amid  the  sequestered  scenes  to 
which  the  travellers  had  penetrated  with  so  much  labor  and 
difficulty,  must  possess  deep  interest  to  every  reflecting  mind, 
and  throw  much  light  on  the  researches  of  the  political  philo- 
sopher and  the  future  historian. 

The  traveller,  who  may  now  in  a  moment  communicate 
with  the  most  distant  cities  of  the  Atlantic  States,  and  who 
upon  the  wings  of  steam  rushes  through  this  matured  and  af- 
fluent territory,  and  views  magnificent  cities,  princely  seats,  and 
a  dense  population — when  he  reads  the  following  description  of 
the  suspended  intercourse  of  Mr.  Watson  and  his  companions 
with  their  families — their  slow  and  laborious  progress — their 


292  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

sleeping  amid  these  scenes  from  dire  necessity,  with  no  covering 
but  the  boughs  of  trees  and  the  canopy  of  Heaven — of  the  soli- 
tary cabin  of  the  pioneer — the  wij,wam  of  the  Indian — and 
of  villag,es  composed  only  of  log-huts,  will  with  difficulty  re- 
ceive it  as  a  portraiture  of  the  same  delightful  region. 

Mr.  Van  Rensselaer  and  Mr.  Watson  left  Albany  on  the  1st 
September,  1791,  traversing  nearly  the  same  route  pursued  by 
the  latter  three  years  before,  to  the  German  settlements  on  the 
Mohawk.  The  object  of  this  journey  was  partially  of  a  busi- 
ness character,  but  more  especially  to  gratify  the  curiosity 
excited  by  his  previous  tour,  and  to  scrutinize  the  opinions  on 
the  subject  of  an  inland  navigation,  which  had  been  suggested 
by  his  former  investigations. 

From  Schenectady  they  despatched  two  bateaux  with  six 
men  and  ample  provisions  for  six  weeks,  and  proceeded  by 
land  to  meet  their  fellow  voyagers,  Van  Cortlandt  and  Bayard, 
with  the  boa's  at  Herkimer. 

The  Journal  of  Mr.  Watson  thus  proceeds  : 

"  September  4 — We  proceeded  on  our  journey  with  a  miser- 
ably covered  wagon,  and  in  a  constantj^rain,  till  night,  which 
brought  us  to  Maj.  Schuyler's  mills,  in  Palatine,  settled  by 
the  descendants  of  German  emigrants,  intermixing  on  all  sides 
with  the  enterprising  sons  of  the  East,  between  whom  mutual 
prejudices  ran  high.  These  feelings  will  gradually  be  over- 
come by  intermarriages,  and  other  modes  of  intercourse. 
Thus  far  the  German  and  Dutch  farmers  have  been,  in  a 
manner,  totally  remiss  in  cultivating  the  first  rudiments  of 
literature,  while  the  descendants  of  the  English  in  New-Eng- 
land have  cherished  it  as  a  primary  duty.  Hence  the  char- 
acteristics of  each  people  are  distinctly  variant.  When  litera- 
ture shall  begin  to  shed  its  benign  rays  over  this  benighted 
race,  then,  and  not  till  then,  the  Germans,  the  Dutch,  the  Yan, 
kees,  will  dismiss  all  local  illiberal  prejudices  and  distinctions, 
and  in  twenty  or  thirty  years  the  shades  of  discordance  will 
be  hardly  preceptible.  The  whole  will  amalgamate,  and  all  be 
dignified  by  the  general  name  of  American ;  speaking  the 
same  language,  and  possessing  the  same  genius  and  education. 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF   ELKAKAH  WATSON.  293 

"  I  have  noticed  with  pleasure  that  the  German  farmers  begin 
to  use  oxen  in  agriculture  instead  of  horses.  For  this  salutary- 
improvement,  they  are  indebted  to  the  example  of  the  New- 
Engiandmen. 

"  I  am  induced  to  believe,  should  the  Western  canals  be  ever 
made,  and  the  Mohawk  river  become  in  one  sense  a  continua- 
tion of  the  Hudson  river,  by  means  of  canals  and  locks,  that 
it  will  most  clearly  obviate  the  necessity  of  sending  produce 
to  market  in  winter  by  sleighs.  On  the  contrary,  it  would 
be  stored  upon  the  margin  of  the  Mohawk  in  winter,  and  be 
sent  in  the  summer  months  by  bateaux,  to  be  unloaded  aboard 
of  vessels  in  the  Hudson. 

"  The  bottoms  or  lowlands  along  the  Mohawk  are  laid  off  into 
rich  enclosures,  highly  cultivated  principally  by  industrious 
Germans.     Narrow  roads  and  contracted  bridges  still  exist. 

"  On  the  south  side  of  the  river  the  country  is  thicker  set- 
tled, and  many  pleasant  situations,  old  farms  and  wealthy 
farmers,  appear ;  but  these  evidently  are  far  behind  those  of 
Germany  or  England  in  the  profitable  science  of  agriculture. 
We  crossed  a  new  wooden  bridge  near  Schuyler's  Mills, 
seventy-five  feet  long,  with  a  single  archj  supported  by  framed 
work  above.  I  was  glad  to  notice  this,  as  an  entering  wedge 
to  more  extended  improvements. 

''  September  7 — This  morning  we  ascended  Fall  Hill,  over  a 
craggy  road  of  one  mile.  From  its  summit,  we  commanded 
an  extensive  and  picturesque  view  of  the  surrounding  country 
in  the  north,  partly  settled,  but  generally  in  nature's  original 
brown  livery,  spotted  here  and  there  by  an  opening. 

"  We  left  the  Little  Falls  on  our  right,  and  descended  into 
the  rich  settlements  of  the  German-flats.  At  Eldridge's  tavern, 
near  Fort  Herkimer,  we  overtook  our  bateaux,  all  well,  and 
embarked  the  same  evening,  stemming  fourteen  miles  against  a 
strong  current,  with  an  awning  spread  over  our  heads.  Each 
boat  was  manned  by  three  men,  two  in  the  bow,  and  one  in 
the  stern  to  steer.  They  occasionally  rowed  in  still  water, 
setting  with  short  poles,  at  the  rapids,  with  surprising  dexterity. 
In  this  mode,  their  average  progress  is  three  miles  an  hour> 


294  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

equal  to  truckschute  travelling  in  Holland ;  but  it  is  extremely- 
laborious,  and  fatiguing  to  the  men.  At  night  we  encamped  in 
a  log-hut  on  the  margin  of  the  river. 

"  September  8. — A  pleasant  sail  of  ten  miles  this  fine  morn- 
ing, brought  us  to  old  Fort  Schuyler.  Here  we  were  joined 
by  Gen.  Van  Cortlandt  and  Mr.  Bayard,  who  were  waiting  for 
us,  which  completes  our  number  to  thirteen. 

"  From  Little  Falls  thus  far,  the  river  is  nearly  competent 
to  inland  navigation,  with  the  exception  of  a  serious  rapid, 
and  a  great  bend  at  the  German-flats,  called  Wolf-riff,  which 
must  be  subdued  either  by  a  cut  across  the  neck  of  land, 
upwards  of  one  mile,  or  by  removing  the  obstructions. 

"  An  Indian  road  being  opened  from  this  place  (now  Utica,) 
to  the  Genesee  county,  it  is  probable  the  position  at  Fort 
Stanwix  and  this  spot  will  become  rivals  as  to  the  site  of  a 
town,  in  connection  with  the  interior,  when  it  shall  become  a 
settled  country. 

"  If,  however,  the  canals  should  be  constructed,  I  think  Fort 
Stanwix  will  take  the  lead  at  a  future  day.  Such  was  my 
impression  when  there  in  1788.  Since  that,  only  a  few 
houses  and  stores  have  been  erected  here,  also  a  tolerable 
tavern  to  administer  comfort  to  the  weary  traveller,  which  I 
experienced  the  want  of  three  years  past.  In  the  afternoon  we 
progressed  thirteen  miles,  meeting  many  obstructions  in  con- 
sequence of  the  cruel  conduct  of  the  new  settlers,  (who  are 
wonderfully  increased  since  I  was  here,)  filling  the  river  with 
fallen  trees  cut  on  its  margin,  narrowing  it  in  many  places, 
producing  shoals  where  the  deepest  waters  had  been  accustom- 
ed to  flow,  and  impeding  the  progress  of  our  boats.  We  pitched 
our  camp  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in  the  midst  of  woods. 
All  hands  fell  to  work,  soldierlike.  We  soon  had  a  roaring 
fire  and  our  tents  pitched — open  on  one  side  to  the  fire  and 
closed  at  each  end  with  canvas.  We  found  an  excellent 
substitute  for  feathers — laying  our  buffaloes  on  hemlock  twigs, 
although  the  ground  was  extremely  moist,  we  were  effectually 
protected  from  any  inconvenience.      We  enjoyed  a  pleasan 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  295 

night,  with  ten,  times  more  comfort  than  we  could  in  the 
miserable  log  huts  along  the  banks  of  the  river. 

"  September  9 — At  noon  we  reached  Fort  Stanwix,  to  which 
place  with  some  aid  of  art  the  river  continues  adapted  to 
inland  navigation  for  boats  of  five  tons  burthen.  Emigrants 
are  swarming  into  these  fertile  regions  in  shoals,  like  the  ancient 
Israelites,  seeking  the  land  of  promise. 

"  We  transported  our  boats  and  baggages  across  the  carry- 
ing-place a  distance  of  two  miles,  over  a  dead  flat,  and  launch- 
ed them  into  Wood  Creek,  running  west.  It  is  a  mere  brook 
at  this  place  which  a  man  can  easily  jump  across.  In  con- 
templating this  important  creek,  as  the  only  water  communi- 
cation with  the  immense  regions  in  the  west,  which  are  des- 
tined to  bless  millions  of  freemen  in  the  approaching  century,  I 
am  deeply  impressed  with  a  belief,  considering  the  great  re- 
sources of  this  State,  that  the  improvement  of  our  internal 
navigation  cannot  much  longer  escape  the  decided  attention 
of  our  law  makers,  and  more  especially  as  it  is  obviously  prac- 
ticable. When  effected,  it  will  open  an  uninterrupted  water 
communication  from  the  immense  fertile  regions  in  the  west 
to  the  Atlantic.     But  more  of  this  as  I  advance  in  my  travels. 

"The  situation  of  Fort  Stanwix  appears  destined  to  become 
a  great  city.  It  lies  in  an  open  plain, — healthy  and  exactly 
at  the  point  where  the  eastern  and  western  waters  unite. 
There  is  a  large  clearing  about  the  old  fort  with  two  or  three 
scattering  houses.  No  progress  has,  however,  been  made,  since 
I  attended  the  treaty  here  in  1788,  although  the  plan  of  a 
city  is  now  contemplated. 

"  September  10 — This  morning,  our  bateaux  began  to  descend 
Wood  Creek  with  the  aid  of  a  mill-dam  which  had  been  filled 
just  above.  Some  of  our  party  at  the  same  time  descended 
by  land  on  a  tolerable  wagon-road  to  Canada  Creek,  six 
miles. 

'*  Although  aided  by  the  sluice,  we  progressed  with  infinite 
difficulty.  In  many  places  the  windings  are  so  sudden  and 
so  short,  that  while  the  bow  of  the  boat  was  ploughing  in  the 
bank  on  one  side  her  stern  was  rubbing  hard  against  the  op-- 


296  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION;  ■< 

posite  shore.  In  some  places  our  men  were  obliged  to  drag 
the  boats  by  main  strength,  and  in  others  the  boughs  and 
Jimbs  were  so  closely  interwoven  and  so  low,  as  to  arch  the 
creek  completely  over  and  oblige  all  hands  to  lie  flat.  These 
obstacles,  together  with  the  sunken  logs  and  trees,  rendered 
our  progress  extremely  difficult,  often  almost  impracticable. 

''From  a  superficial  view  of  this  important  creek  it  appears 
to  me,  the  great  difficulties  may  be  surmounted — First,  by  cut- 
ting away  all  the  bushes  and  trees  on  its  banks ;  second,  by 
cutting  across  the  necks,  and  removing  all  sunken  logs  and 
trees ;  and  lastly,  by  erecting  substantial  sluices  or  incHned 
planes,  at  given  distances,  so  as  to  continue  a  head  of  water 
from  sluice  to  sluice.  This  creek  in  its  present  state  may 
be  considered  a  natural  canal,  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  wide. 

"  Bateaux  which  ascend  the  creek,  and  frequently  the  descend- 
ing boats  at  this  season,  are  dragged  by  horses  travelling  in 
the  water.  This  is  a  work  of  incredible  fatigue  and  difficulty. 
*  "The  accession  of  Canada  Creek  more  than  doubles  the 
size  of  Wood  Creek. 

"September  11 — Last  night  and  this  day  we  were  inundated 
by  heavy  rains  which  our  tent  was  unable  to  repel ;  in  con- 
sequence we  were  all  exposed  in  the  most  uncomfortable  man- 
ner. In  the  intervals  of  showers  we  amused  ourselves  by 
catching  fish.  Salmon,  Oswego  bass,  cat-fish,  chubs,  trout, 
pike,  are  the  fish  common  in  this  river.  Salmon  are  some- 
times caught  at  the  milldams,  near  Fort  Stanwix. 

"September  12 — At  3  o'clock  we  reached  the  royal  block- 
house, at  the  east  end  of  the  Oneida  lake.  The  innumerable 
crooks  and  turns  in  Wood  Creek  carried  us  to  every  point  of 
the  compass.  Should  the  western  canals  be  ever  attempted, 
I  am  persuaded  this  creek  may  be  shortened  at  least  one-third. 
The  lands  on  each  side  of  Wood  Creek  are  low,  and  heavily 
timbered  with  beach,  maple,  oak,  elm,  linden,  and  near  the 
lake,  some  white  pine.  Bears  are  plenty  and  deer  scarce. 
At  two  miles  from  the  lake  the  river  suddenly  widened  and 
we  took  to  our  oars.  Fish  Creek,  one  mile  near  the  lake, 
falls   into  Wood    Creek   from   the  north,  and  is    about  one 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF  ELEANAH  WATSON.  297 


hundred  feet  wide.  Thence  to  the  lake,  the  stream  is  bold  and 
spacious.  We  caught  a  cat-fish  as  large  as  a  common  sized 
cod,  measuring  five  inches  between  the  eyes. 

"  September  13 — This  morning  we  wrote  home  by  a  boat 
coming  from  the  west  loaded  with  hemp,  raised  at  the  south 
end  of  the  Cayuga  lake.  What  a  glorious  acquisition  to  agri- 
culture and  commerce  do  these  fertile  and  extensive  regions 
in  the  west  present  in  anticipation!  And  what  a  pity,  since 
the  partial  hand  of  Nature  has  nearly  completed  the  water 
communication  from  our  utmost  borders  to  the  Atlantic  ocean, 
that  Art  should  not  be  made  subservient  to  her  to  complete 
the  great  work ! 

"  Immediately  after  breakfast  we  embarked,  doubled  a  point 
of  land,  and  entered  the  Oneida  lake  with  our  sails  filled  to  a 
light  easterly  breeze.  The  lake  opened  to  our  view,  spreading 
before  us  like  a  sea.  We  glided  smoothly  over  its  surface,  and 
were  delighted  with  a  charming  day.  On  the  south  is  the  Onei- 
da Eeservation,  at  present  inhabited  by  the  Oneida  nation  of  In- 
dians. The  country  lies  flat  for  eight  or  ten  miles  and  then 
swells  into  waving  hills.  On  the  north  it  is  generally  low,  but 
heavily  timbered. 

"  This  lake  is  thirty  miles  long,  and  from  five  to  eight  broad. 
We  are  now  sailing  parallel  with  the  Ontario  ocean,  which  I 
hope  to  see,  and  at  least  enjoy  in  delightful  anticipation  the 
prospect  of  a  free  and  open  water  communication  from  thence 
to  the  Atlantic,  via  Albany  and  New- York. 

"  In  giving  a  stretch  to  the  mind  into  futurity,  I  saw  those 
fertile  regions,  bounded  west  by  the  Mississippi,  north  by  the 
great  lakes,  east  by  the  Allegany  mountains,  and  south  by  the 
placid  Ohio,  overspread  with  millions  of  freemen;  blessed 
with  various  climates,  enjoying  every  variety  of  soil,  and  com- 
manding the  boldest  inland  navigation  on  this  globe  ;  clouded 
with  sails,  directing  their  course  towards  canals,  alive  with 
boats  passing  and  repassing,  giving  and  receiving  reciprocal 
benefits  from  this  wonderful  country  prolific  in  such  great 
resources. 

"  In  taking  this  bold  flight  in  imagination,  it  was  impossible 


298  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

to  repress  a  settled  conviction,  that  a  great  effort  will  be  made 
to  realize  all  my  dreams. 

"  Near  the  west  end  of  the  lake  are  two  small  islands,  on  one 
of  which  resides  a  respectable  Frenchman  who  came  from 
France  a  few  years  since,  and  has  voluntarily  sequestered  him- 
self from  the  world,  and  taken  up  his  solitary  abode  upon  this 
island,  with  no  society  but  his  dogs,  guns,  and  library,  yet  he 
appeared  happy  and  content. 

"  This  lake  is  extremely  turbulent  and  dangerous,  a  small 
breeze  producing  a  short  bobbing  sea,  in  consequence  of  its 
shoal  waters. 

*'  The  bateauxmen  commonly  hug  the  north  shore  as  safest 
as  w^ell  as  more  direct  from  point  to  point.  On  that  side, 
these  points  project  less  into  the  lake  than  on  the  south  shore. 
The  wind  soon  rose  to  a  brisk  side  gale,  which  occasioned 
such  a  dangerous  agitation  as  obliged  us  to  make  a  harbor 
at  Twelve  Mile  Point,  near  which  we  noticed  two  large  bears, 
walking  along  the  shore  in  majestic  confidence. 

*'  We  trolled  with  our  lines  and  caught  some  bass  ;  the  day 
concluded  with  heavy  rains,  and  a  violent  squall.  In  spite  of  our 
tents,  we  were  much  wet  and  half  suffocated  with  smoke. 

"  September  14 — Early  this  morning  we  embarked  and  pro- 
ceeded across  the  lake,  rowing,  with  a  light  breeze  in  our 
favor.  We  passed  the  seven  mile  islands,  (already  mentioned) 
after  stopping  to  breakfast  on  the  north,  shore ;  soon  after 
which  the  shores  suddenly  narrowed,  and  we  found  ourselves 
opposite  Fort  Brewenton,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Onondaga 
river,  which  is  a  very  shallow  stream. 

"  We  landed  near  the  old  fort,  where  we  found  two  families 
and  a  handsome  improvement.  After  refreshing  ourselves 
under  the  first  Christian  roof  which  had  sheltered  us  in  five 
days,  we  commenced  descending  the  Onondaga  river  with  an 
easy  current.  The  river  is  generally  about  three  hundred 
feet  wide.  It  is  nineteen  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  to  Three 
River  Point.  In  this  length  there  are  three  or  four  preity  long 
rapids ;  but  these  obstructions  can  easily  be  removed,  and  a  boat 
channel  formed. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  299 


"  We  observed  in  many  places  on  this  river  small  piles  of 
stones,  which  we  were  told,  are  thrown  up  by  salmon,  where 
they  cast  their  spawn,  to  protect  them  from  other  fish.  These 
waters  abound  in  cat-fish,  salmon,  bass,  eel,  and  corporals,  all 
very  fine  and  fat.  They  are  caught  in  eel  weirs,  formed  by 
Indians,  thus : — Two  walls  of  loose  stones  are  thrown  up, 
obliquely  descending  across  the  river,  to  a  point,  where  they 
are  taken  at  a  small  opening,  in  baskets  or  eel  pots.  Salmon 
are  caught  at  the  Oswego  Falls  in  the  night,  by  spearing  them 
as  they  vault  up  the  falls,  by  the  aid  of  torch  lights. 

"  The  shore  along  the  town  of  Cicero  is  generally  low,  heavily 
timbered,  with  some  pine  ridges.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
we  were  incommoded  by  rain.  In  the  evening  we  pitched 
our  tent  at  Mr.  Moses  De  Witts'  camp  at  the  Three  River 
Point,  who  is  locating  the  military  lands  (destined  as  gratuities 
for  the  troops  of  the  New- York  line  in  the  late  war),  with  a 
company  of  surveyors. 

"  Here  the  Onondaga  river  from  the  east,  and  the  Seneca 
from  the  west,  form  a  junction  in  majestic  silence,  withdut  rip- 
pling or  confusion.  Their  waters  mingle  in  a  spacious  con- 
fluence, and  descend  by  a  N.  W.  course  into  Lake  Ontario,  at 
Fort  Oswego,  which  is  twenty-four  miles  distant. 

''  Fort  Oswego  is,  at  present,  garrisoned  by  a  captain's  com- 
pany of  British  soldiers,  in  violation  of  the  treaty  of  1783 — 
but  according  to  my  calculations,  this  violent  and  truely  Brit- 
ish aggression  will  be  of  short  duration.  A  high  spirited  in- 
dependent nation  will  not  long  brook  the  insult. 

"  We  were  visited  'in  our  camp  this  evening  by  several 
troublesome  Indians,  of  the  Onondaga  tribe,  attended  by  some 
young  squaws,  by  whose  persuasions  we  were  finally  relieved 
from  their  pressing  importunities  for  rum,  rum! — a  terrible 
scourge  among  this  unfortunate  race  of  men,  who  have  been 
cut  off  in  millions  by  its  excessive  use  since  America  was 
first  peopled  by  Europeans.  Two  or  three  white  families  are 
settled  there.  The  situation  is  high  and  healthy,  fronting 
the  communication  with  Canada,  and  a  central  point  from  east, 
west,  and  north. 


300  MEN   AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEYOLUTION; 

"In  my  view,  a  large  city  will  arise  at  this  spot  during  the 
ensuing  century.  A  canal  communication  from  hence  to 
Oswego  harbor,  is  necessary  (although  the  obstacles  are  great 
at  this  point),  to  complete  the  great  chain  of  water  com- 
munication from  Ontario  to  the  Hudson,  admitting  the  other 
points  I  have  contemplated  are  accomplished.  To  effect  this 
part  of  the  navigation  will  be  a  work  of  infinite  difficulty  and 
great  expense,  as  there  is  about  one  hundred  feet  fall  to  the 
lake. 

"  September  1 5 — This  morning  we  were  visited  by  old  Kiadote, 
king  of  the  Onondaga  Indians,  with  several  warriors  and  the 
queen,  who  brought  us  some  excellent  fresh  salmon  and  eels 
in  a  basket  slung  to  her  back,  for  which  we  gave  them  in 
exchange  rum  and  biscuits.  Kiadote  possesses  a  sensible,  se- 
date face,  the  queen  appeared  modest  and  humble.  The 
name  of  Kiadote  means  a  tree  with  thorns,  and  fruit  upon  it. 
The  queen  is  called  Kanastoretar,  meaning  a  good  house- 
wife. 

"  Of  all  the  languages  I  have  ever  heard,  none  strikes  my 
ear  so  pleasantly  as  the  Indian,  especially  from  the  mouth  of 
a  female.  Their  accent  is  harmonious,  soft,  and  full  of 
music,  swelling  and  descending  in  a  manner  grateful  to  the 
ear.     I  am  told  it  is  easily  attained. 

"  We  re-embarked,  ascending  the  Seneca  river  against  the 
current  coming  from  the  west.  In  about  a  mile  we  encountered 
a  considerable  rapid  and  an  eel  wier,  and  saw  a  party  of  In- 
dians encamped  for  the  purpose  of  fishing. 

"  After  about  eight  miles  sailing,  passing  two  or  three  rapids, 
and  low  lands  heavily  timbered,  we  entered  a  small  narrow 
river,  leading  south  into  the  Salt  lake,  one  mile  from  the  Seneca 
river.  Previous  to  our  entrance  into  this  natural  canal,  we 
observed  the  color  of  the  water  had  changed  to  a  greenish 
cast ;  and  on  entering  the  creek  we  noticed  a  disagreeable 
stench,  like  dock  mud  or  bilge  water,  the  shorb  white  with 
froth,  the  bottom  covered  with  a  white  sediment. 

"  This  lake  opened  most  pleasantly  before  us,  six  miles  in  length, 
N.  W.  and  S.  E.,  and  about  two  wide.     The  country  in  the 


OE,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  301 

back-ground  is  irregularly  broken  into  hills  and  dales;  on 
the  west  it  is  more  waving.  With  a  light  breeze  we  hoisted  our 
sails,  and  contemplated  a  country  pleasantly  situated  on  each 
side  of  us  as  we  sailed  along,  lying  as  yet  in  a  state  of  nature, 
but  which  must  at  a  period  not  very  far  distant,  assume  the 
cheerful  aspect  of  civilized  settlements.  We  steered  by  our 
map  and  compass,  and  with  some  difficulty  found  the  creek 
on  which  the  salt-works  are  now  erected  half  a  mile  from 
its  mouth  at  the  foot  of  a  hill.  These  works  are  in  a  rude, 
unfinished  state,  but  are  capable  of  making  about  eight  thou- 
sand bushels  of  salt  per  annum,  which  is  nearly  the  quantity 
required  for  the  present  consumption  of  the  country.  The 
mines  are  so  affluent  and  abundant  as  to  be  equal  to  the 
supply  for  the  United  States,  even  when  our  population  shall 
reach  one  hundred  millions, 

"Providence  has  happily  placed  this  great  source  of  comfort 
and  wealth,  precisely  in  a  position  accessible  by  water  in  every 
direction. 

"When  the  mighty  canals  shall  be  formed  and  locks  erected^ 
it  will  add  vastly  to  the  facility  of  an  extended  diffusion,  and 
the  increase  of  its  intrinsic  worth. 

"  It  will  enter  Ontario,  and  the  other  great  lakes,  and  find  its 
way  down  the  St.  Lawrence  by  Oswego,  into  Pennsylvania, 
and  the  Chesapeake,  up  Seneca  river  to  the  head  of  the  Seneca 
lake,  and  by  a  portage  (perhaps  eventually  a  canal)  of  eighteen 
miles  to  Newtown,  on  the  Susquehanna  river ;  and  through 
canals  in  contemplation,  up  Wood  Creek  and  down  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  into  the  Hudson. 

"  Whenever  works  are  properly  constructed  on  a  large  scale, 
the  salt  may  be  delivered  for  twenty-five  cents  a  bushel, 
probably  less ;  but  the  expense  of  transportation  under  present 
obstruction,  will  limit  its  consumption  to  the  western  country. 

"  We  found  the  waters  in  the  springs  so  highly  saturated,  as 
to  bear  a  potatoe.  Five  parts  of  water  produce  one  of  salt. 
A  man  will  make  eleven  bushels  a  day,  in  the  present  wasteful 
mode,  by  which  it  requires  a  cord  of  wood. 


302  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE^  rEEVOLUTION ; 

"  The  State  has  wisely  reserved  a  mile  round  the  lake  for 
fuel,  for  the  future  benefit  of  the  inhabitants. 

"The  present  price  at  the  works,  is  seventy-five  cents  a 
bushel.  The  quality  is  exceedingly  good,  white,  and  of  a 
handsome  grain. 

"  The  interior  of  the  earth  from  the  south-east  corner  for  sev- 
eral miles  round  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  is  so  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  salt  mines,  that  the  color  of  the  water  of  the  lake 
is  exactly  like  that  of  the  sea ;  and  approaching  the  shore, 
nearly  as  salt.  The  bottom  is  a  quicksand,  and  clay  covered 
with  a  white  sediment.  At  dark  we  grounded  on  a  shoal 
in  the  lake,  and  with  some  difficulty  extricated  ourselves 
and  landed  on  an  inhospitable  beach,  where,  with  infinite  trou- 
ble, we  obtained  a  little  fire-wood  by  groping  about  in  the 
dark.  It  blew  a  gale  and  rained  hard.  In  this  dilemma  we 
were  standing  a  long  anxious  hour,  before  we  could  behold 
the  cheering  rays  of  fire  light  to  comfort  and  dry  us. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  303 


CHAPTER     XXIV. 

Robbery— Indian  Salt  Makers— Indian  Royal  Family— Indian  Habits — 
Seneca  River— Encampment — Aromatic  Grass— Salt  Deposites — 
Salt  Manufactures — Salt  Marshes — Cayuga  Lake — Medical  Practice 
— Pioneers— Healthiness  of  Savage  Life — Seneca  Falls — Canals— Pros- 
pects— Country — Seneca  Lake — Geneva — Appletown — Indian  Or- 
chard— Gen.  Sullivan — Senecas — Religious  Meeting — Navigate  Se- 
neca Lake — Ovid — Return — Description  of  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Lakes 
— Aspect  of  the  Country — Want  of  Water — Indian  Navigation — At- 
tractions of  the  Country — Speculative  Views — Connection  of  the 
Lakes  and  Susquehanna  River — First  Western  Stage, 

"September  16 — One  of  our  people  lost  all  his  baggage  last 
night,  which  we  supposed  was  stolen  by  some  lurking  Indians 
hovering  around  our  camp.  We  coasted  along  on  the  south 
shore  of  the  lake,  and  ascended  the  Onondaga  creek,  discharg- 
ing from  the  south  into  the  Salt  lake.  We  landed  at  an  old 
Indian  camp,  crossed  over  a  neck  of  land  to  a  hard  beach, 
which  I  presume  is  an  entire  bed  of  salt  at  no  great  depth,  as 
by  making  little  holes  with  our  canes  in  the  hard  surface, 
salt  water  immediately  oozed  in,  as  strongly  impregnated  as 
at  the  springs. 

"  Here  the  Indians  were  making  salt  of  which  they  use  but 
little.  From  hence  we  coasted  north,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  lake,  with  a  strong  gale  a  head.  We  passed  several 
birch  canoes  with  Onondaga  Indians,  returning  from  fishing, 
accompanied  by  all  their  families,  children,  dogs,  cats,  fowls, 
&c.  These  birch  canoes  are  extremely  light — they  sail  like 
ducks  upon  the  water,  and  some  of  them  are  whimsically 
painted.  In  one  of  these  canoes,  the  king  and  queen  were 
paddling  and  their  son  steering.  We  hove-to,  and  were  some 
time  talking  by  signs,  and  trafficking  biscuit  and  rum  for 
smoked  eels  and  salmon.       This   counts  the   seventh  royal 


304  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

personage  I  have  seen  in  my  travels,  viz.  Little  Carpenter, 
king  of  the  Cherokees,  Feb.  1778.  Louis  XVI.,  king  of  France, 
September,  1779.  Joseph,  Emperor  of  Germany,  October, 
1781.  George  111,,  king  of  Great  Britain,  Dec.  1782.  The 
Stadtholder  of  Holland,  June,  1787.  Newriver,  king  of  the 
Catabaws,  October,  1787.  And  lastly  Kiadote,  king  of  the 
Onondagas,  September,  1791. 

"  It  is  surprising  to  observe  how  tenaciously  the  Indians  ad- 
here to  their  native  customs  free  from  contamination,  although 
bordering  on  and  even  intermixed  with  whites.  They  stick 
to  the  Indian  to  the  last  man,  with  a  few  exceptions,  and  this 
demonstrates  a  well  known  fact  that  they  despise  our  customs 
as  heartily  as  we  do  theirs.  They  view  us  as  a  race  of  mortals 
degenerated  into  effeminacy  and  unworthy  the  native  dignity 
of  man,  in  which  they  pride  themselves. 

"  We  entered  the  Seneca  river,  proceeded  west,  and  en- 
camped near  the  Cross  lake,  in  a  disagreeable  camp,  having 
passed  several  rafts  and  eel  wiers. 

"  September  17 — This  morning  we  doubled  round  a  hand- 
some point  of  land,  in  the  town  of  Lysander,  and  then  hauled 
N.  W.  which  soon  opened  to  our  view  the  Cross  lake.  We 
landed  on  a  high  piece  of  ground  at  the  east  entrance  of  the 
lake,  where  we  saw  a  multitude  of  names  cut  upon  large  beech 
trees,  and  then  traversed  the  lake  partly  in  an  oblique  direc- 
tion. On  the  south  a  deep  bay  makes  in.  The  adjacent  ground 
lies  low,  but  at  a  little  distance  rises  into  hills  of  an  easy  slope. 

"  At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  the  lake  we  again  entered  the 
Seneca  river,  contending  against  the  current,  with  the  town- 
ship of  Brutus  on  each  side  of  us.  We  passed  the  outlet  of 
the  Skaneateles  lake  on  our  left,  falling  into  the  Seneca  river. 
We  observed  many  islands,  and  the  wild  ducks  starting  up 
continually  among  them.  The  river  improves  in  width  and 
depth  as  we  progress  west.  We  encamped  at  the  west  end 
of  an  island  on  a  high  cliff. 

"  September  19. — Proceeded  on  to  lot  80,  in  Brutus,  to  ex- 
amine the  Salt  Works.  After  traversing  a  marsh  about  fifty 
rods,  sweetly  perfumed  with  aromatic   Seneca  grass,  which 


305 


the  Indians  wear  around  their  necks,  in  braids,  to  enjoy  the 
perfume,  and  as  a  preventive  to  the  headache,  we  reached  two 
or  three  log  huts,  where  salt  is  made  on  a  pitiful  scale  by  a 
few  cadaverous  beings  stalking  on  two  legs.  I  am  greatly 
mistaken  if  there  is  not  a  continued  vein  of  salt  from  the  Salt 
Lake  to  the  Cayuga  Lake,  a  distance  of  thirty-four  miles.  I 
ground  this  hypothesis  on  the  following  reasons  :  First,  the 
color  of  the  water  and  bottom,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cayuga 
Lake.  Second,  the  extensive  salt  marshes,  for  seven  or  eight 
miles  before  we  reach  the  lake.  Third,  that  two  salt  springs 
are  already  opened  in  Brutus,  and  some  indications  of  salt 
near  the  Cayuga  ferry. 

"  Should  the  event  verify  my  suppositions,  it  will  stamp  an 
additional  value  on  this  vast  source  of  wealth.  They  manu- 
facture at  present,  in  a  miserable  log  hut,  about  two  bushels  a 
day.  From  hence  to  the  Cayuga  Lake,  six  miles,  we  were 
much  impeded  in  our  progress  by  a  rank  weed  and  the  salt 
marshes,  in  which  we  were  continually  entangled.  In  the 
afternoon  we  reached  the  opening  of  the  Cayuga  Lake,  after 
stopping  at  a  house  to  administer  medicine  to  a  sick  family. 
By  doing  this  on  several  occasions,  I  obtained  the  appellation 
of  Doctor  on  my  return,  when  I  examined  my  patients,  all  of 
whom  were  doing  well.  I  was  delighted  in  entering  this 
charmincr  lake.  The  shores  upon  each  side  swell  into  gentle 
eminences,  but  our  view  south  was  obstructed  by  a  point  of 
land  projecting  from  each  shore. 

"  We  traversed  obliquely  across  the  lake  three  miles  to  the 
ferry-house.  Here  we  pitched  our  tent  for  the  night,  with  bad 
accommodations,  surrounded  by  land  pioneers,  many  of  whom 
were  rude  and  uncouth,  both  in  manners  and  appearance  ;  but 
they  are  a  useful  race  of  citizens,  calculated  to  subdue  the 
wilderness  and  make  way  for  more  civilized  settlers,  rising  by 
gradations.  In  spite  of  fleas  and  bugs,  as  this  was  the  only 
civilized  roof  we  had  slept  under  for  ten  nights,  we  submitted 
cheerfully  to  our  fate.  I  had  reason,  however,  before  morning, 
to  sigh  for  the  luxury  of  sleeping  in  the  open  air,  with  my  feet 
to  the  fire.     I  found  a  difficulty  in  respiring  in  a  close,  pent- 

20 


306  MEN   AND  TIMES   OF  THE   KEVOLUTION ; 

up  room,  the  air  of  which,  being  contaminated  by  different 
breaths,  or  even  a  single  breath,  is  always  prejudicial  to  health. 
I  am  convinced,  from  the  experience  of  ten  days,  that  the 
nearer  we  approach  to  the  original  state  of  savage  life,  the 
less  we  shall  be  exposed  to  the  complicated  disorders  incident 
to  a  civilized  state. 

''September  20 — We  double-manned  one  of  our  boats, 
leaving  the  other,  with  the  principal  part  of  our  baggage  and 
stores,  with  one  of  our  men,  overcome  with  fatigue,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  our  way  to  the  Seneca  Lake.  We  sailed  north 
three  miles,'  and  then  entered  a  narrow  river  which  connects 
the  two  lakes.  We  stemmed  against  a  rapid  current,  three 
miles,  to  the  foot  of  the  Seneca  Falls.  The  carrying-place  is 
kept  by  one  Smith,  who  has  a  comfortable  log-house,  and  con- 
siderable improvements. 

"  This  transit  extends  one  mile.  We  transported  our  bag- 
gage by  land,  and  our  men  stemmed  the  rapid  with  an  empty 
boat  in  a  surprising  manner. 

"  From  our  best  estimate,  the  fall,  in  an  extent  of  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile,  is  about  twenty  feet.  Since  it  is  impossible 
to  improve  the  bed  of  the  river,  it  results  that  a  canal  with 
two  or  three  locks  on  the  north  shore  will  be  the  only  practi- 
cable and  effectual  method  ;  the  expense  to  effect  which  will 
bear  no  proportion  to  the  importance  of  the  object. 

"  We  walked  two  miles  by  a  foot-path  to  a  place  called 
Scawayas,  where  these  rapids  commence.  Here  we  re-em- 
barked, and  ascended  the  Seneca  Eiver  to  the  Seneca  Lake, 
which  we  entered  just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  behind  the 
western  hills.  The  distance  between  these  two  delightful  lakes 
by  water  is  eleven  and  a  half  miles,  the  current  being  pretty 
strong.  We  found  this  canal  of  nature's  workmanship  con- 
necting the  two  lakes,  generally  narrow,  in  some  places 
obstructed  by  small  riffs,  in  others  by  fallen  trees  which  can  be 
easily  removed.  The  land  on  the  north  shore  appeared  to  us 
poor  and  uneven,  and  on  the  south  rather  depressed,  until 
within  two  miles  of  the  Seneca  Lake,  where  it  lies  low  on  both 
sides.     As  we  approached  the  lake,  we  noticed  several  small 


307 

creeks,  and   some  natural  meadows,  and  on  the  north  shore  a 
log  ferry-house.     Here  we  saw  the  remains  of  an  Indian  bridge. 

"At  this,  spot  the  victorious  army  of  Sulhvan  forded  the 
river  in  pursuit  of  the  flying  savages,  in  1779.  The  sun  was 
just  setting  as  we  entered  the  lake,  which  opened  upon  us  Hke 
a  new  creation,  rising  to  our  view  in  picturesque  and  roman- 
tic beauty. 

*'  Our  prospect  extends  south  over  a  bold  sheet  of  water.  The 
tops  of  the  hills  and  trees  were  just  tinged  with  the  departing 
sun,  the  evening  was  serene,  and  my  mind  involuntarily  ex- 
panded, in  anticipating  the  period  when  the  borders  of  this  lake 
will  be  stripped  of  nature's  livery,  and  in  its  place  rich  enclosures, 
pleasant  villas,  numerous  flocks,  herds,  &c.,  and  inhabited  by 
a  happy  race  of  people  enjoying  the  rich  fruits  of  their  own 
labors,  and  the  luxury  of  sweet  liberty  and  independence,  ap- 
proaching to  a  millennial  state. 

"  The  new  village  of  Geneva  made  its  appearance,  in  the 
north-west  point  of  the  lake,  to  which  we  directed  our  course, 
after  disentangling  ourselves  from  a  hard  sand-bank  at  the 
outlet  of  the  lake. 

"  September  21 — Geneva  is  a  small,  unhealthy  village,  con- 
taining about  fifteen  houses,  all  log  except  three,  and  about 
twenty  families.  It  is  built  partly  on  the  acclivity  of  a  hill 
and  partly  on  a  flat,  with  deep  marshes  north  of  the  town,  to 
which  is  attributed  its  unhealthiness.  We  received  decent 
accommodations  at  Patterson's  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  but 
were  troubled  the  most  of  the  night  by  gamblers  and  fleas,  two 
curses  to  society. 

"At  nine  o'clock  this  fine  morning  we  re-embarked,  and 
traversed  obliquely  across  the  lake  to  Appletown,  eleven  miles. 

"  At  the  entrance  of  this  lake,  the  south  view  appears  like 
the  Hudson,  from  the  middle  of  the  river,  between  Paulus' 
Hook  and  New- York,  and  presents  a  body  of  water  about  as 
broad.  From  Geneva  it  has  much  the  appearance  of  the 
North  River  from  Greenwich,  two  points  projecting  into  the 
lake,  similar  to  Bloomingdale  and  the  opposite  shore. 


308  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF   THE   REVOLUTION; 

"  We  pitched  our  tent  at  Appletown,  a  fine  tract  of  land, 
formerly  the  head-quarters  of  the  Seneca  nation. 

^'  It  contains  extensive  orchards  of  scattering  old  trees,  the 
only  fruit  trees  in  the  country.  Here  •  Sullivan's  conquering 
army  wreaked  their  principal  vengeance,  by  destroying  or- 
chards, corn,  wigwams,  &c.  Many  of  the  trees  are  girdled, 
and  marks  of  the  destructive  axe  of  the  soldiery  are  yet  to  be 
seen  in  every  direction. 

«  The  Senecas  were  formerly  a  powerful  nation.  Sullivan 
broke  up  their  last  strong-hold.  Not  a  vestige  is  now  to  be  seen 
in  this  vicinity,  as  the  remnant  is  settled  in  Canada  under  the 
protection  of  their  friend,  the  Eoyal  George. 

"  We  were  astonished  to  see  one  hundred  and  fifty  people 
collected  at  a  meeting  while  here.  This  is  a  prelude  to  the 
assembling  of  thousands  who  are  destined  shortly  to  possess 
these  fertile  regions. 

"  September  23— Our  boat  proceeded  with  a  brisk  gale  and 
a  considerable  swell  to  the  outlet,  at  the  same  time  I  took  a 
horse  and  travelled  by  an  Indian  path  obliquely  across  the 
town  of  Romulus,  seventeen  miles,  in  a  north-east  direction, 
to  our  point  of  starting  on  the  Cayuga  Lake. 

"  September  24— Having  rejoined  our  party  at  the  ferry, 
we  dispatched  one  of  our  boats  to  Schenectady,  and  proceed- 
ed with  the  other  up  Cayuga  Lake.  We  passed  an  old  Indian 
castle  on  our  left.  The  shore  on  each  side  is  high.  We 
landed  occasionally:  noticed  distant  smokes,  and  here  and 
there  a  log-hut  embosomed  in  the  venerable  forests.  In  the 
south-west  quarter  the  township  of  Ovid  made  its  appearance. 
It  rises  beautifully  from  the  shore  towards  its  centre.  The 
tops  of  the  trees  resemble  waving  fields  of  wheat  at  a  distance. 
We  sailed  along  the  shore  of  the  town  of  Scipio,  a  fine  tract 
of  rich  land,  already  thickly  inhabited  by  new  settlers.  In 
the  afternoon  we  landed  at  Phelps'  tavern,  where  we  found 
good  entertainment  in  a  log-house. 

"  This  is  the  most  thriving  settlement  on  the  military  tract. 
Here  terminates  our  expedition.  The  advanced  season  has 
turaed  our  attention  homeward. 


309 


*'  Gen.  Van  Cortlandt  and  Mr.  Bayard  having  determined 
to  gain  the  old  settlements  on  the  Mohawk  by  an  Indian 
foot-path,  Mr.  Van  Rensselaer  and  myself  retm-ned  by 
water. 

"  The  map  of  the  world  cannot  exhibit,  in  any  country,  two 
lakes  of  equal  magnitude  as  the  Seneca  and  Cayuga,  so  sin- 
gularly and  so  happily  situated.  What  a  fertile  theme  for 
poets,  painters,  philosophers  and  travellers,  for  the  last  two 
thousand  years,  had  they  been  placed  in  Italy.  They  are  each 
about  thirty-five  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  four  wide, 
stretching  nearly  north  and  south,  and  running  almost  parallel 
from  seven  to  fifteen  miles  distant.  Seneca  Lake  was  never 
known  to  freeze  over,  owing  to  its  great  depth  and  being  prin- 
cipally fed  by  springs.  The  color  of  the  water  is  a  pale  blue, 
with  a  clear  bottom.  The  Cayuga  freezes  in  common  with 
other  adjacent  waters,  eight  or  ten  miles  from  the  outlet. 
From  thence  south  the  water  deepens,  and  it  seldom  freezes  ; 
its  color  is  of  a  greenish  cast. 

"  In  general,  except  towards  the  south,  the  country  lying 
between  these  delightful  lakes  rises  gradually  in  symmetry, 
from  the  opposite  shores  towards  the  centre,  producing  a  pleas- 
ing effect.  Whenever  it  reaches  a  cultivated  state  by  the  vig- 
orous arms  of  freemen,  it  will  become  the  paradise  and  garden 
of  America.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  country 
on  the  west  shore  of  the  Cayuga  Lake,  viewed  from  about  five 
miles  from  its  entrance,  including  both  the  Cayuga  Reserva- 
tion, and  the  town  of  Ovid,  which  bear  a  strong  resemblance 
to  the  West  shore  of  the  Seneca  Lake. 

"  The  tops  of  the  trees  were  in  beautiful  uniformity,  its 
symmetry  being  in  no  manner  broken  by  hills  of  great  magni- 
tude, except  in  one  place,  where  there  is  a  small  cluster 
of  white  pines  overlooking  all  the  adjacent  region.  The 
want  of  water  seems  to  be  a  prevailing  complaint  between  the 
lakes.  But  by  sinking  wells  it  is  generally  found  near  the 
surface.  Except  in  this  particular,  nature  has  been  profuse  in 
all  her  bounties. 

*'  The  soil  is  luxuriant,  the  climate  more  temperate  than 
in    the    same   parallel   on   the    Atlantic   borders,    the    situa- 


310  MEN-  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

tion  delightful,  and  commanding  an  easy  access  by  water 
south  and  east. 

"  In  a  word,  J  almost  deplored  the  short  span  of  human  life, 
that  I  cannot  witness  the  happiness  of  those  blessed  genera- 
tions of  Americans,  yet  unborn,  who  are  destined  to  inherit 
these  delightful  regions.  Having  devoted  my  ardent  and  deep 
attention  to  the  important  subject,  the  practicability  of  opening 
an  uninterrupted  water  communication  from  these  interes- 
ing  lakes,  as  branches  of  the  mighty  chain  of  connected  oceans 
descending  by  canals  and  locks  to  the  Hudson  River,  I  shall 
now  sum  up  detailed  views  and  estimates,  from  that  river 
o  the  Seneca  Lake. 

"  To  open  a  water  communication  from  the  Hudson  to  the 
Seneca  Lake,  the  following  works  are  indispensable,  viz : — 

''  First.  A  canal  to  connect  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson 
in  the  nearest  direction  from  river  to  river,  or  a  canal  with 
locks,  on  the  north  of  the  Cohoes,  to  come  out  at  Waterford, 
will  probably  cost  £ . 

"  Second.  The  Mohawk  to  be  cleared  of  some  rocks,  and  the 
rifts  deepened  to  the  Little  Falls. 

"  Third.  A  canal  of  one  mile  at  the  Little  Falls,  either  cut 
in  the  solid  rock,  or  by  embankments,  and  four  or  five  locks, 
the  descent  being  estimated  by  the  eye  and  from  information 
at  forty  two  feet. 

"  Fourth,  Obstructions  to  be  removed  to  Fort  Stanwix,  and 
some  rapids  laid  open. 

"  Fifth.  Wood  Creek  to  be  improved  by  removing  numerous 
natural  or  artificial  obstructions  ;  and  cutting  through  the 
necks,  it  may  be  shortened,  probably  one-half  from  Canada 
Creek,  eighteen  miles,  as  the  river  meanders. 

''  Lastly.  To  open  the  riffs  and  rapids  in  the  Onondaga  and 
Seneca  rivers,  with  canals  and  locks  at  the  Seneca  Falls,  to 
open  communication  with  the  Seneca  Lake. 

"  A  canal  and  locks  to  the  Oswego  Falls  from  Three-River 
Point,  will  accomplish  the  grand  desideratum — the  sublime 
plan  of  opening  an  uninterrupted  water  communication  from 
the  Hudson,  to  Lake  Ontario,  and  from  a  thousand  miles  of 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON,  311 

shore  fairly  within  the  limits  of  this  State.  Thus  also  the 
great  plan  of  Washington,  to  divert  the  commerce  of  the 
immense  regions  in  the  west,  even  the  fur-trade  from  Detroit 
to  his  beloved  Alexandria,  would  be  subjected  at  least  to  a 
fair  competition.  Commerce,  like  water,  will  seek  its  natural 
level,  but  where  once  the  current  has  taken  a  settled  direction, 
it  will  not  be  easy  to  divert  its  course. 

'•  The  further  we  explored  these  western  waters,  the  more 
we  were  impressed  with  the  vast  importance  of  assisting 
nature  in  the  whole  extent  of  the  contemplated  improvements, 
so  that  loaded  boats  coming  from  the  Hudson  Eiver  can  reach 
our  utmost  borders  without  interruption.  Let  any  man  con- 
template a  good  map,  and  he  cannot  fail  to  be  thus  impressed. 
Let  the  same  man  realize  the  policy  and  necessity  of  the  mea- 
sure, by  exploring  these  waters  in  person,  the  first  impression 
will  not  fail  to  be  heightened  into  a  degree  of  enthusiasm  bor- 
dering on  infatuation. 

"  The  improvements  I  had  all  along  contemplated,  either  at  a 
remote  period  or  as  near  at  hand,  led  me  to  attend  with  a  cir- 
cumspect and  inquisitive  eye  to  the  actual  state  of  these 
waters.  The  prospect  is  truly  animating  when  we  give  a 
stride  to  the  imagination,  and  take  a  deep  plunge  into  the 
arcana  of  futurity. 

*•'  For  luxuriance  of  soil,  mildness  of  climate,  and  easy  access 
to  market,  perhaps  no  part  of  the  world,  so  distant  from  the  sea 
as  our  western  country,  presents  such  irresistible  allurements 
to  emigrants,  as  well  from  the  eastern  hive  as  from  Europe. 
We  saw  at  every  step  the  bold  and  venerable  forests  settling 
before  the  strokes  of  the  axe,  and  farms  and  population  in- 
creasing on  all  sides.  Nothing  will  tend  with  so  much  cer- 
tainty to  accelerate  the  progress  of  these  great  events,  and  to 
open  a  door  to  the  happiness  of  unborn  millions,  as  to  render  a 
w^ater  communication  at  once  cheap  and  easy  of  access. 
Exclusive  of  continuing  an  intercourse  with  the  greatest  chain 
of  lakes  in  the  known  world,  it  will  give  a  powerful  stimulus 
to  a  new  creation  in  the  very  heart  of  this  State,  and  this  will 
be  greatly  facilitated  by  the  admission  of  boats  from  fifteen  to 


312  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

twenty  tons  burthen.  Hitherto  no  boats  have  been  able  to 
navigate  these  waters  carrying  over  eight  or  ten  barrels,  and 
the  expense  has  overbalanced  the  benefits.  Again,  by  travers- 
ing from  the  harbor  of  Oswego  about  sixty  miles  on  the  south 
sbore  of  Lake  Ontario,  vessels  of  sixty  or  seventy  tons  burthen 
may  receive  the  whole  produce  of  the  Genesee  country,  on 
the  outlet  of  Genesee  River,  also  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie, 
at  Fort  George,  which  can  be  easily  conveyed  from  thence  in 
vessels  to  the  harbor  of  Oswego,  and  thence  be  taken  in  large 
bateaux,  through  the  proposed  navigation,  to  the  Hudson  river,, 
to  be  reshipped  either  at  Albany  or  at  New  York  for  foreign 
markets. 

"  On  this  momentous  subject,  a  single  question  arises  : — Are 
we  advanced  to  a  sufficient  state  of  maturity  to  justify  an 
undertaking  of  this  magnitude  ?  If  we  proceed  on  the  Euro- 
pean mode  of  calculation,  waiting  in  the  first  instance  to 
find  the  country  through  which  canals  are  to  pass,  to  be  in 
a  state  of  maturity  and  improvement,  the  answer  is  at  hand — 
No !  But  calculating  on  the  more  enlarged  American  scale, 
and  considering  the  physical  circumstances  of  the  country  in 
question,  should  the  canals  precede  the  settlements,  it  will  be 
justified  on  the  principles  of  sound  policy.  In  return  it  will 
inevitably  follow,  that  a  vast  wilderness  will,  as  it  were  by 
magic,  rise  into  instant  cultivation.  If  executed  gratuitously 
by  the  public,  the  State  in  effect  will  be  retarded  only  a  few 
years,  in  receiving  a  tenfold  return  for  all  its  disbursements. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  it  should  be  performed  by  private  in- 
dividuals, having  a  toll  in  view,  their  remuneration  would  pro- 
bably be  small  for  a  few  years,  but  the  increasing  benefit 
w^hich  will  arise  from  this  species  of  property,  will  keep  equal 
pace  with  the  augmenting  settlement  and  cultivation  of  the 
country. 

"  In  my  estimation  for  a  permanent  property,  it  will  be  found 
eventually  the  most  productive  of  any  in  America.  On  a 
scale  of  truly  enlarged  policy,  therefore,  it  would,  doubtless,  be 
sound  wisdom,  should  the  State  execute  the  project  out  of 
its  own  ample  means,  and  leave  the  passage  free  and  open, 
as  otherwise  posterity  will  be  burthened  with  a  weighty  tax  {m 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  313 

the  article  of  toll)  to  the  emolument  of  the  successors  of  the 
first  adventurers,  which  ought  not  to  exist  in  a  land  of  liberty, 
where  the  intercourse  should  be  as  free  as  the  air  which  we 
breathe. 

"  In  eight  days  we  reached  Albany,  going  all  the  way 
by  water  to  Schenectady.  I  shall  never  forget  my  delighted 
sensations  on  reaching  the  Mohawk  river.  After  rambling 
among  woods  for  twenty  days,  or  cramped  up  in  a  small  boat, 
exposed  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather,  and  sleeping  in  the 
open  air,  at  best  mingling  with  pioneer  settlers  in  log-huts, 
the  contrast  of  clean  sheets  and  good  cheer,  with  all  our 
philosophy  to  the  contrary,  was  extremely  grateful  to  our  habits 
and  feelings,  and  met  with  a  cordial  welcome.  We  traversed 
the  whole  length  of  the  Oneida  Lake  (thirty  miles),  from  sun- 
set to  about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Our  poor  fellows 
rowed  the  whole  distance  in  the  dark,  like  machines  in  per- 
petual motion,  telling  wonderful  stories  and  singing  character- 
istic songs.  Being  apprehensive  of  a  storm,  they  persevered 
resolutely  without  stopping.  Sitting  for  such  a  length  of 
time,  eight  hours,  in  the  same  position,  when  we  reached 
the  royal  block-house  at  the  east  end  of  the  lake,  it  was  with 
great  difficulty  we  commanded  thB  use  of  our  limbs  for  some 
minutes. 

''  On  our  way  to  Schenectady  we  examined  several  places 
we  omitted  on  our  journey  west,  especially  the  flourishing 
settlement  at  Whitestown  and  the  Little  Falls.  Were  I  to 
make  this  tour  again,  instead  of  proceeding  by  water,  via  Fort 
Stanwix,  &c.,  I  would  embark'  at  Lake  Otsego,  descend  the 
Susquehanna  branch  to  Newtown-Point,  and  then  travel  by 
wagon  across  the  Portage  into  the  Seneca  Lake,  and  from 
thence  the  same  route  I  returned.  By  which  means,  instead 
of  stemming  the  Mohawk  and  Seneca  rivers,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  it  would  require  only  seventy-six  miles  to  stem 
against  the  Tioga  and  Onondaga  rivers,  and  Wood  Creek. 

"  From  Newtown-Point  to  the  Seneca  Lake  it  is  eighteen 
miles.  A  canal  here  would  unite  all  the  waters  of  the  State 
with  the  Susquehanna  and   Chesapeake :    thus  forming  one 


314 


half  of  the  State  completely  into  an  island.  The  idea  is  sub- 
lime in  theory,  and  must  sooner  or  later  be  realized. 

"  The  bateauxmen  who  ply  between  Newtown  and  Mid- 
dletown,  in  Pennsylvania,  carry  from  six  to  eight  hundred 
bushels.  Their  boats,  or  arks,  require  from  four  to  seven  men 
to  work  them,  and  sometimes  they  go  forty  miles  above  New- 
town, on  the  Tioga  Branch. 

"  Some  facts  within  my  personal  knowledge  connected  with 
the  establishment  of  the  first  public  conveyance  west  of  Albany, 
I  think  worthy  of  notice,  as  they,  with  singular  force,  exhibit 
the  progress  of  improvement. 

"  On  our  return  from  this  expedition,  Mr.  Van  Rensselaer 
and  myself  arrived  at  Schenectady  on  the  evening  of  the  10th 
of  October,  and  proceeded  from  the  bateau  to  the  tavern  of 
Mr.  Hudson.  We  were  naturally,  after  an  absence  of  six 
weeks,  extremely  solicitous  to  reach  our  families.  Mr.  Hud- 
son made  every  effort  in  his  power  during  the  evening  to  se- 
cure us  suitable  conveyance  to  Albany  the  ensuing  day,  but 
without  success.  He  at  length  informed  us  that  there  was  no 
possible  way  of  getting  to  Albany,  except  by  riding  on  a  load 
of  shingles,  or  to  go  with  a  pair  of  half-broke  colts.  We  pre- 
ferred the  latter  alternative.  We  urged  Mr.  Hudson  to  run  a 
weekly  stage  to  Albany,  who  seemed  much  disposed  to  em- 
bark in  the  enterprise,  but  was,  he  said,  fearful  of  the  result, 
for  a  Mr.  Douglass  had  made  the  experiment  five  years  before, 
and  ruined  himself,  as  he  found  no  passengers  to  patronise  him. 
In  about  a  fortnight  I  met  one  Beal,  who  carried  the  mail 
once  a  week,  usually  on  horseback,  from  Albany  to  Canajo- 
harie,  which  was  then  the  frontier  post-ofRce.  This  weekly 
mail  supplied  the  whole  western  territory.  Such  was  my 
information.  I  pressed  him  to  carry  his  mail  in  a  cheap 
wagon,  calculated  to  accommodate  way-passengers,  and  gave 
him  a  letter  to  Mr.  Hudson,  urging  him  to  unite  with  Beal  in 
the  measure. 

**  Early  in  December  following.  I  was  delighted  to  hear  the 
sound  of  a  stage  horn,  and  to  see  Beal  dashing  down  State- 
street  with  the  Schenectady   and   Canajoharie  mail  wagon. 


315 


which  was  announced  to  run  once  a  week.  In  the  rapid 
increase  of  the  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of  Whitestown, 
they  soon  found  abundant  encouragement. 

"  To  this  humble  experiment  may  be  traced  the  foundation 
of  the  immense  and  splendid  stage  organization  which  now 
connects  Albany  with  the  teeming  regions  of  the  west.  Per- 
haps the  annals  of  the  world  does  not  exhibit  in  such  a  depart- 
ment a  progress  so  vast  and  wonderful." 


316  MEN  AND  TIMES   OE  THE  EE VOLUTION  ; 


CHAPTER     XXV. 

Appeals  to  the  Legislature  and  Public  on  the  subject  of  Inland  Navigation 
— Labors  in  that  Cause — Gen.  Schuyler — Letter  from  him — Canal 
Law,  '92 — Letter  from  Gen.  Schuyler — Letter  from  Robert  Morris — 
Tribute  to  him — Canal  Companies— Effects  of  Improvement — Nia- 
gara Falls  Canal — Company  Organized — Canal  Controversy  of  1820 
-De  Witt  Clinton— Hosack's  Memoirs  of  him— Letter  of  Robert 

\      Troup  to  Dr.  Hosack — Letters  of  John  Adams. 

The  facts  collected  in  these  journeys,  and  the  views  and 
anticipations  formed  by  his  explorations,  which  are  exhibited 
in  the  preceding  extracts,  were  elaborated  by  Mr.  Watson,  and 
urged  upon  the  public  sentiment,  and  the  particular  attention 
of  the  Legislature  in  various  essays  and  memorials.  These 
productions  attracted  the  attention  of  Gen.  Schuyler,  to  whose 
perusal  the  original  journals  of  Mr.  Watson  had  been  submit- 
ted. Gen.  Schuyler  was  at  that  period  a  member  of  the  Sen- 
ate, and  wielded,  by  his  patriotic  ardor  and  great  and  varied 
talents,  a  potential  influence  in  the  State. 

The  results  which  both  himself  and  Mr.  Watson  had  contem- 
plated with  so  much  solicitude,  were  ultimately  achieved  in 
1792,  in  the  passage  of  an  act,  by  which  two  companies  were 
chartered*,  one  for  "  opening  a  lock  navigation  from  the  naviga- 
ble waters  of  the  Hudson,  to  be  extended  to  Lake  Ontario 
and  the  Seneca  Lake," — and  the  other,  "from  the  Hudson  to 
Lake  Champlain."  While  this  bill  was  struggling  in  its  pro- 
gress, Mr.  Watson  attended  upon  the  Legislature,  and  with  the 
utmost  assiduity  and  zeal,  sustained  the  energetic  efforts  of 
Gen.  Schuyler  in  promoting  its  final  success.  The  following 
letter  from  Gen.  Schuyler  is  of  interest,  from  its  exhibiting  the 
embarrassments  and  difficulties  which,  encompassed  the  mea- 
sure, and  the  force  and  decision  of  his  purpose  in  its  accom- 
plishment. 


317 


"  New-  York,  March  4^A,  1792. 

"  Sir  : — The  letter  which  I  had  the  pleasure  to  receive  from  you, 
should  have  been  acknowledged  at  a  more  early  day :  sickness  was 
one  cause  which  prevented,  and  another  proceeded  from  a  wish  to 
be  able  to  communicate  something  decisive  on  the  subject  of  your 
letter. 

"  A  joint  committee  of  both  houses  (of  which  committee  I  was  not 
one)  has  been  formed.  This  committee  reported  a  bill  for  incorporat- 
ing two  companies,  one  for  the  western,  another  for  the  northern 
navigation.  The  former  was  to  have  been  carried  no  further  than 
Oneida  Lake.  The  bill  contemplated  a  commencement  of  the  works 
from  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Hudson,  and  to  be  thence  continu- 
ed to  the  point  I  have  mentioned,  and  it  obliged  the  corporation, 
in  a  given  number  of  years,  (which  was  intended  to  be  ten,)  to 
the  completion  of  the  whole  western  navigation. 

"When  th^  bill  was  introduced  into  the  Ser.ate,  the  plan  general- 
ly appeared  to  me  so  exceptionable,  that  I  thought  it  incumbent  on 
me  to  state  my  ideas  on  the  subject  at  large.  They  were  approved 
of  unanimously  by  the  committee  of  the  whole  house,  and  1  was  re- 
quested to  draw  a  new  bill.  This  was  done,  and  it  has  met  with 
the  approbation  of  the  committee  of  the  whole,  and  will  be  complet- 
ed to-morrow  by  filling  up  the  blanks.  By  this  bill  two  companies 
are  to  be  incorporated,  one  for  the  western  the  other  for  the  northern 
navigation.  It  is  proposed  that  each  shall  consist  of  one  thousand 
shares;  that  subscriptions  shall  be  opened  by  commissioners  at  New- 
York  and  Albany ;  that  the  books  shall  be  kept  open  a  month ;  that 
if  more  than  one  thousand  shares  are  subscribed,  the  excess  deducted 
from  each  subscription  pro  rata,  so,  nevertheless,  as  that  no  subscriber 
shall  have  less  than  one  share ;  that  every  subscriber  shall  pay  at 
the  time  of  subscription,  say  thirty  dollars,  and  that  the  directors 
of  the  incorporation  shall,  from  time  to  time,  as  occasion  may  re- 
quire, call  on  the  subscribers  for  additional  moneys  to  prosecute  the 
work  to  effect,  whence  the  whole  sum  for  each  share  is  left  indefinite. 

"The  Western  Company  are  to  begin  their  works  at  Schenectady, 
and  to  proceed  to  Wood  Creek.     If  this  part  is  not  completed  in 

years,  say  six  or  eight,  then  the  Corporation  is  to  cease ;  but 

having  completed  this  in years  more — say  ten,  they  are  to  be 

allowed  further  time  for  extending  the  works  to  the  Seneca  Lake,  and 
to  Lake  Ontario  ;  and  if  not  completed  within  that  term,  then  the  in- 
corporation to  cease,  so  far  forth  only  as  relates  to  the  western  naviga- 
tion from  Wood  Creek  to  the  lakes.  The  State  is  to  make  an  immedi- 
ate donation  of  money,  which  I  proposed  at  ten  thousand  pounds  for 
each  company,  but  which  I  fear  will  be  reduced  to  five  thousand 
pounds  for  each  company.  I  thought  it  best  that  the  operations 
should  begin  at  Schenectady,  lest  the  very  heavy  expense  of  a  canal, 
either  directly  from  Albany  to  Schenectady,  or  by  the  way  of  the 
Cohoes  or  Half-Moon,  might  have  retarded,  if  not  have   totally 


318  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 


arrested,  at  least  for  a  long  time,  the  navigation  into  the  western 
country,  and  conceiving  that  if  the  navigation  to  the  Cohoes  was 
completed,  the  continuation  of  it  from  Schenectady  to  the  Hudson 
would  eventually  and  certainly  take  place.  A  given  toll  per  ton  will 
be  permitted  for  the  whole  extent  from  the  Hudson  to  the  lakes,  and  this 
toll  will  be  divided  by  the  directors  to  every  part  of  the  canals  and 
navigation  in  proportion  to  the  distances  which  any  boat  may  use  the 
navigation.  Provision  is  made  that  if  the  toll  does  not  produce,  in 
a  given  time,  six  per  cent.,  the  directors  may  increase  it  until  it  does, 
but  the  corporation  is  ultimately  confined  to  a  dividend  of  fifteen  ])er 
cent.  Both  corporations  are  in  perpetuity,  provided  the  works  are 
completed  in  the  times  above  mentioned. 

''  The  size  of  the  boats  which  the  canals  are  to  carry,  is  not  yet 
determined.  I  believe  it  will  be  that  they  shall  draw,  when  loaded, 
two  and  a  half  feet  of  water.  This  is  substantially  the  bill,  as  far  as 
it  relates  to  the  Western  navigation. 

"The  northern  company  is  to  commence  its  works  a^Troy,  and  to 
deepen  the  channel  at  Lansingburgh,  so  as  to  carry  vessels  of  greater 
burthen  to  that  place  than  are  now  capable  of  going  there.  The 
blank  for  this  purpose  I  think  will  be  filled  up  with  two  feet;  that  is, 
the  channel  is  to  be  deepened  two  feet.  From  Lansingburgh,  the 
navigation  is  to  be  improved  by  deepening  the  river  by  locks  and 
canals  to  Fort  Edward,  or  some  point  near  it,  and  thence  to  be  car- 
ried to  Wood  Creek,  or  some  of  its  branches,  and  extend  to  Lake 
Champlain.  Tolls,  &c.,  are  to  be  on  the  same  principle  as  on  the 
Western  navigation.  A  clause  was  proposed,  for  preventing  any 
canals  to  the  Susquehanna,  but  it  was  lost;  it  being  conceived  im- 
proper to  oblige  the  inhabitants  of  the  western  country  to  make 
Hudson  river,  or  the  commercial  towns  on  it,  their  only  markets. 

"In  the  prosecution  of  these  capital  objects,  I  have  to  combine  the 
interests  of  the  community  at  large  with  those  of  my  more  immedi- 
ate constituents.  What  the  result  will  be,  time  must  determine.  I 
shall,  however,  be  happy  if  my  ideas  on  the  subject  shall  meet  the 
approbation  of  gentlemen  more  conversant  with  those  matters  than  I 
can  be  supposed  to  be. 

"  Excuse  the  many  incorrections  of  this  scrawl ;  I  have  not  time  to 
make  a  fair  copy.  And  be  so  good  as  to  communicate  the  contents  to 
such  gentlemen  as  feel  an  interest  in  the  completion  of  those  great 
objects  which  are  the  subject  of  it. 

"  I  am,  sir,  with  regard,  your  obedient  servant, 

"Philip  ScHurLER. 

"E.  Watson,  Esq." 

Nev^  obstacles  impeded  the  consummation  of  tbis  policy,  from 
the  difficulties  which  were  encountered  in  obtaining  subscrip- 
tions to  the  stock  of  the  company.     A  vigorous  and  successful 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  319 

impulse  was  given  to  the  subject  by  the  course  which  was 
adopted  in  conformity  to  the  suggestions  embraced  in  the 
annexed  letter  of  Gen.  Schuyler. 

''New-Yorh,  May  20th,  1792. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — If  it  had  occurred  to  me  that  the  paucity  of  my  sub- 
scription would  have  had  the  effect  you  mention,  I  most  certainly 
would  have  subscribed  ten  shares  in  the  first  instance,  impressed,  as 
I  am,  with  the  importance  of  the  measure,  and  believing,  as  I  do,  that 
it  will  be  a  productive  fund  for  the  subscribers. 

"Such,  sir,  is  my  opinion  of  the  advantages  which  will  result  to 
the  subscribers,  if  a  small  alteration  is  made  in  tne  Act  of  Incorpora- 
tion, and  which  I  am  persuaded  the  Legislature  will  readily  assent  to, 
that  I  should  not  hesitate  to  hold  one  hundred  shares,  provided  n'ly 
ideas  on  the  subject  should  prevail.  What  these  are,  I  will  at  a 
future  day  detail  to  a  few  select  gentlemen.  I  cannot  find  they  have 
occurred  to  any  one. 

"  I  am,  &c., 

"Philip  Schuyler. 

"Elkanah  Watson,  Esq." 

I  incorporate  the  following  letter  in  reference  to  the  same 
subject  from  the  distinguished  Robert  Morris,  not  only  to 
present  the  extent  and  nature  of  the  agency  of  Mr.  Walson  in 
promoting  the  subscription  to  this  stock,  but  equally  to  com- 
memorate an  instance  of  the  patriotic  and  expansive  devotion 
of  Mr.  Morris,  which  signalized  his  career,  in  the  advance- 
ment of  every  scheme  of  public  benefit  and  improvement. 

'•'Philadelphia,  June  Wth^  1792. 

"Mr.  Elkanah  Watson, 

"  Sir  : — Your  favor  of  the  4th  ult.  came  to  hand  some  time  ago,  but 
a  journey  into  the  western  country,  and  other  avocations  since  my 
return,  prevented  a  regular  answer  in  due  time.  The  canal  engineer 
has  not  yet  arrived,  and  I  fear  he  will  be  longer  delayed  in  England 
than  was  at  first  expected ;  however,  he  will  certainly  be  here  by 
August  or  September. 

"  I  find  your  subscription  did  not  fill ;  I  shall  therefore  empower 
Gen.  Schuyler  to  sub^ribe  for  me,  and  if  necessary,  I  am  ready,  as 
formerly  mentioned,  to  open  and  push  your  subscription  here,  upon 
being  properly  authorized  so  to  do.  I  have  no  doubt  of  getting  the 
number  of  shares  subscribed  that  you  want.     I  shall  do  it  free  of 


320 


any  charge,  and  lodge  the  money  in  the  bank  for  the  orders  of  the 
managers  or  directors, 

"I  had  the  article  you  sent  me  published  in  Dunlop's  daily  paper. 
Am  sure  your  subscription  will  be  filled  here,  if  necessary  to  send  the 
papers  forward  for  the  purpose. 

"Your  obedient,  humble  servant, 

"Robert  Morris." 

Endorsed  upon  the  back  of  this  letter,  in  the  writing  of  Mr. 
Watson,  is  the  following  just  and  appropriate  tribute  to  the 
character  and  services  of  this  eminent  patriot :  "  The  name  of 
Robert  Morris  will  be  identified  with  the  annals  of  the  Ameri- 
can Revolution  until  time  shall  be  no  more.  He  was  among 
the  first  merchants  of  America  several  years  previous  to  that 
great  event,  in  the  firm  of  Welling  and  Morris.  Their  opera- 
tions and  credit,  upon  a  magnificent  scale,  extended  to  every 
port  in  Europe.  This  credit,  under  a  benign  Providence,  was 
the  basis  of  his  fiscal  measures  when  placed  at  the  head  of  our 
finances  in  the  year  1780.  We  had  at  that  period  no  credit, 
as  a  nation,  in  Europe,  and  in  our  financial  affairs  were  only 
sustained  by  the  great  talents  and  personal  influence  of  Frank- 
lin at  Paris,  of  Adams  a;t  the  Hague,  and  Jay  in  Madrid ;  and 
the  pittances  they  procured  were  dealt  out  in  hesitation  and 
reluctance. 

"  It  was  far  otherwise  with  Morris.  By  his  personal  credit, 
he  was  enabled  to  create  the  sinews  that  moved  our  armies  in 
1781  ;  without  which  Cornwallis  would  not  have  been  cap- 
tured, and  the  war  might  have  been  protracted  by  a  desperate 
and  exasperated  enemy. 

"  Such  was  the  writer  of  the  above  letter,  when  at  the  zenith 
of  his  glory,  although  staggering,  at  that  time,  under  the 
weight  of  the  responsibilities  he  had  incurred  for  his  country, 
and  which  a  new-born  nation  could  not  avert.  It  is  lamenta- 
ble to  add  that,  thus  prostrated  through  his  ardent  zeal  and 
patriotic  efforts,  he  ended  his  valuable  and  useful  life  in  the 
loathsome  precincts  of  a  debtor's  prison." 

Companies  were  organized  under  this  Act.  Gen.  Schuyler, 
Mr.  Watson,  and  Thomas  Eddy,  appeared  to  have  been  the 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  321 

most  active  and  prominent  managers  in  superintending  and 
directing  their  measures.  It  is  not  within  the  province  of  this 
work  to  trace  the  operations  of  these  companies.  Adequate, 
perhaps,  to  the  exigencies  of  that  period,  they  were  ultimately 
overshadowed,  and  their  works  immerged  in  the  greater  con- 
ception of  the  Erie  Canal.  That  their  results  were  most  bene- 
ficial and  important  to  the  country  is  established  by  the  facts, 
that  boats  of  the  capacity  of  sixteen  tons  were  enabled  to 
navigate  from  Schenectady  to  the  southern  extremity  of  Sene- 
ca Lake,  after  their  completion,  and  to  transport  freight  at 
thirty-two  dollars  per  ton ;  while  previous  to  the  construction 
of  these  works,  the  same  waters  could  not  be  navigated  by 
boats  exceeding  one  and  a  half  tons,  and  at  charge  for  freight 
of  nearly  one  hundred  dollars  per  ton. 

In  connection  with  this  subject  it  should  be  remarked,  that  a 
company  was  chartered  in  1798,  authorizing  the  construction 
of  a  canal  around  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  with  the  purpose  of 
uniting  the  waters  of  the  upper  lakes  with  Ontario.  This  pro- 
ject was  promoted  with  great  ardor  and  enthusiasm  by  Mr. 
Watson,  and  had  the  designs  contemplated  by  it  been  achieved, 
its  effects,  in  connection  with  the  works  proposed  by  the  law  of 
'92,  would  have  anticipated  those  results  which  were  afterward 
accomplished  by  the  Erie  Canal — the  unlocking  the  portals  of 
the  illimitable  west  to  the  trade  and  commerce  of  the  Hudson. 
Mr.  Watson  was  appointed  one  of  the  directors,  and  in  conjunc- 
tion with  Benjamin  Colt,  Esq.,  made  a  detailed  report,  the 
original  draft  of  which,  in  the  writing  of  the  former,  is  now  in 
my  possession,  presenting  estimates,  and  a  general  exposition 
of  the  objects  and  advantages  which  would  be  attained  by  the 
construction  of  the  work.  A  subsequent  more  exact  survey 
was  made  under  the  direction  of  the  company,  but  the  scheme 
was  not  accomplished,  and  slumbered  until  revived  among  the 
projects  and  enterprises  of  the  present  day. 

I  may  here,  with  propriety,  in  the  arrangement  of  my  sub- 
ject, anticipate  a  term  of  thirty  years,  to  advert  to  events 
which  emanated  from  the  occurrences  of  this  period,  and  which. 

21 


322  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

for  several  years  embittered  the  age  of  Mr.  Watson  by  an 
acrimonious  and  harsh  controversy. 

In  the  year  1820,  Col.  Kobert  Troup,  a  personal  friend  of 
Mr.  Watson,  and  familiar  with  his  efforts  and  services  in  the  pro- 
motion of  the  internal  improvements  of  the  State,  published  an 
article  ascribing  to  Mr.  Watson  distinguished  merit  in  the  initia- 
tion and  support  of  its  canal  policy.  The  elevated  position 
and  eminent  character  of  Col.  Troup  as  a  lawyer — as  a  former 
Judge  of  the  United  States  District  Court — and  as  a  citizen, 
impressed  this  publication  with  a  high  sanction.  It  was  suc- 
ceeded by  a  volume  from  Mr.  Watson,  embracing  the  journal  of 
his  western  explorations,  an  abstract  of  which  is  contained  in 
the  preceding  pages. 

These  publications  were  assailed  in  the  claims  and  conclu- 
sions they  asserted,  by  an  able  and  eloquent  pamphlet,  ascribed 
with  undoubted  justice  to  one  of  the  most  distinguished  states- 
men of  the  age.  Col.  Troup  replied  in  an  elaborate  letter, 
addressed  to  the  Hon.  Brockholst  Livingston,  reaffirming  and 
vindicating  his  original  position.  A  second  edition  of  the 
letter  of  Col.  Troup  was  afterwards  published,  combined  with 
an  ample  supplement,  from  the  pen  of  an  eminent  jurist,  which 
enforced  the  same  views  and  embraced  a  general  history  of 
the  rise  and  progress  of  the  canal  interests  of  the  State.  The 
question  became  involved  in  the  party  controversies  of  that 
day,  which  were  distinguished  by  an  unusual  rancor  and  vin- 
dictiveness.  Numerous  other  publications  were  elicited  by 
this  discussion,  which  produced  at  least  one  highly  auspicious 
result,  by  commemorating  the  facts  and  the  efforts  of  individuals 
connected  with  the  progress  of  the  stupendous  canal  system  of 
the  State,  from  the  commencement  to  its  consummation.  A 
knowledge  of  these  facts  and  incidents,  eminently  due  to  justice 
and  history,  was  thus  perpetuated,  which  otherwise  would  have 
been  lost,  or  only  preserved  in  misty  tradition. 

In  my  own  judgment,  there  never  existed  any  just  or  reason- 
able cause  for  the  excitement  in  feeling,  or  the  conflict  of 
claims  for  meritorious  services,  which  were  aroused  by  these 
controversies.     The  men  who  projected  and  accomplished  the 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  TVATSON.  323 

measures  which  acquired  form  and  consistency  from  the  law 
of  '92,  had  their  gaze  intently  fixed  on  the  Ontario  termination. 
These  views,  subsequently  enlarged,  were  expanded  into  the 
plan  of  connecting  that  lake  with  the  waters  of  the  upper 
lakes,  by  the  construction  of  the  canal  arou'nd  Niagara  Falls. 
A  direct  communication  between  the  Hudson  and  Lake  Erie 
did  not  enter  into  their  contemplations. 

It  is  equally  certain  that  the  genius  which  conceived,  and 
the  energy  that  effected,  the  Erie  Canal,  had  no  connection 
with  the  efforts  and  policy  which  a  quarter  of  a  century 
earlier,  had  breathed  life  and  vigor  into  the  spirit  of  internal 
improvements  in  the  State.  The  growth  of  the  canal  system 
was  gradual  and  progressive ;  and  how  far  the  earlier  measures 
may  have  been  suggestive  of  the  later,  no  human  investiga- 
tions can  now  determine. 

The  exalted  talents  of  Ue  Witt  Clinton,  his  illustrious  ser- 
vices, the  ardent  and  patriotic  devotion  that  led  him  to  stake, 
upon  a  momentous  and  doubtful  policy,  all  the  high  aspirations 
of  an  intellect  like  his,  always  received  from  Mr.  Watson 
the  heartfelt  tribute  of  his  admiration  and  applause. 

I  fesl  it  due  to  the  cause  of  truth  and  justice,  and  the  mem- 
ory of  my  father,  to  occupy  a  few  pages  by  introducing  the 
luminous  and  dispassionate  letter  of  Col.  Troup  on  this  subject, 
addressed  to  Dr.  David  Hosack,  the  eloquent  biographer  and 
eulogist  of  Mr.  Clinton,  and  published  in  the  appendix  to  his 
Memoir.  It  is  preceded  in  that  work  by  the  following  expla- 
nations by  Dr.  Hosack.*  "  The  early  views  of  Elkanah  Wat- 
son, relative  to  the  internal  navigation  of  the  State  of  New- 
York,  and  his  services  in  exploring  the  western  part  of  the 
State,  prior  to  the  Act  of  1792,  introduced  and  supported  by 
Gen.  Philip  Schuyler,  establishing  the  inland  lock  navigation 
companies,  and  the  influence  of  those  measures  as  introductory 
to  the  improvements  which  have  since  taken  place,  are  fully 
set  forth  in  the  following  communication  from  Col.  Troup. 
This  was  prepared,  at  my  solicitation,  in  answer  to  certain 

♦  Hosack's  Memoir  of  De  Witt  Clinton,  page  289. 


/ 

324  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

queries  addressed  by  me  to  that  gentleman.  Further  remarks 
on  the  merits  of  Mr.  Watson  and  of  Gen.  Schuyler  become 
unnecessary." 

Letter  from  Colonel  Robert  Troup. 

"  New-York,  22nd  January^  1829. 
*'  Dear  Sir  : 

"  I  have  learnt  from  you,  with  much  satisfaction,  that  you  are  en- 
gaged in  the  meritorious  work  of  rendering  justice  to  those  who  pro- 
jected our  canal  policy,  and  also  to  those  who  assisted  in  giving  it 
practical  effect. 

"  That  ray  information  may  more  exactly  correspond  with  your 
wishes,  I  proceed  to  furnish  it  in  the  shape  of  precise  answers  to  the 
following  questions,  which  you  have  been  pleased  to  submit  to  my 
consideration. 

"  1.  In  what  year  did  Mr.  Watson  first  direct  his  attention  to  the 
western  part  of  the  State  ?  And  how  far  did  he  proceed  in  exploring 
it. 

"  2.  What  was  the  import  of  his  suggestions  to  General  Schuyler 
respecting  the  improvement  of  the  navigation  between  Hudson 
River  and  the  Western  Lakes  %  And  did  the  suggestions  aim  at  the 
improvement  of  the  natural  navigation,  then  existing,  of  the  lakes, 
rivers  and  creeks  of  our  western  country,  and  as  a  medium  of  con- 
nection between  them  1  or,  did  they  aim  at  the  construction  of  a 
continued  canal  1  And  if  the  latter,  what  was  to  be  its  course  and 
extent  *? 

"  3.  What  share  had  Mr.  Watson  in  procuring  the  passage  of  the 
canal  act  of  March,  1792? 

"In  answer  to  the  first  question  I  observe,  that  Mr.  Watson's  mind 
naturally  inclines  him  to  speculate  in  improvements  of  a  public  nature. 
This  inclination  has  derived  additional  strength  from  Mr.  Watson's 
travelling,*  while  he  was  young,  in  Flanders,  in  Holland,  and  in  Eng- 
land, and  attentively  examining  the  canals  he  met  with  ;  and  also 
from  visiting  General  Washington,  at  Mount  Vernon,  and  conversing 
freely  with  him  on  his  favorite  subject  of  uniting  the  western  waters 
with  the  Potomac.  Thus  prompted  by  natural  inclination,  and,  at 
the  same  time,  urged  by  patriotic  motives,  Mr.  Watson,  in  Septem- 
ber, 1788,  made  a  journey  from  Albany  to  Fort  Stanwix,  now  called 
Rome,  where  State  Commissioners  were  holding  a  treaty  with  the 
Indians  for  the  purchase  of  their  western  lands.  What  Mr.  Watson 
in  this  journey  saw  of  the  face  of  the  country  and  of  the  courses  of  its 
waters,  and  especially  the  situation  of  Rome,  inflamed  his  imagina- 
tion with  the  lofty  conception  that,  by  removing  obstructions  in  the 
rivers  and  creeks,  and  cutting  canals  to  connect  them,  the  State  might 

*  See  Mr.  Watson's  History  of  the  Western  Canals,  p.  8. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON".  325 

open  a  naviorable  communication  between  the  waters  of  the  Hudson 
and  those  of  the  great  lakes ;  a  measure  which  Mr.  Watson  supposed 
would  necessarily  tend  '  to  divert  the  trade  of  the  lakes  from  Quebec 
and  Alexandria  to  Albany  and  New- York.'* 

"  After  reflecting  for  several  years  on  this  important  measure,  and 
becoming  by  his  reflections  more  partial  to  it,  Mr.  Watson  in  com- 
pany with  a  few  friends,  in  the  autumn  of  1791,  travelled,  partly  by 
land  but  chiefly  by  water,  from  Schenectady  to  Geneva,  in  Ontario 
county.  Mr.  Watson  kept  a  particular  journalf  of  these  travels  ;  and 
from  his  journal  it  appears  that  he  carefully  explored  the  ground, 
lakes,  rivers  and  creeks  lying  in  his  route,  and  was  sanguine  in  his 
opinion  of  the  feasibility  of  opening  a  navigable  communication  be- 
tween the  Hudson  and  the  Western  lakes;  and  dwelling,  almost 
with  rapture,  on  the  vast  benefits  such  a  communication  would  be 
likely  to  produce,  Mr.  Watson  pressed  it  in  emphatic  terms  on  the 
*  policy  of  the  State.'  Anticipating  this  policy,  he  promised  to  no- 
tice every  obstacle,  and,  according  to  his  '  best  judgment,  to  devise 
plans  and  make  estimates.'  And  he  further  promised,  *by  every 
effort  in  his  power,  to  excite  the  public  attention  to  the  grand  object ;' 
insisting  that  '  its  cost  would  bear  no  comparison  with  the  immense 
advantages  the  State  would  be  sure  to  derive  from  it.' 

"  In  answer  to  the  second  question  I  observe,  that  in  January, 
1792,  Mr.  Watson  delivered  his  journal  to  General  Schuyler,  who 
was  then  a  leading  member  of  our  Senate.  With  his  journal,  Mr. 
Watson  also  delivered  to  the  General  a  report.^  framed  from  the  re- 
marks and  estimates  which  the  journal  contained.  The  report  mi- 
nutely traced  the  route  of  the  proposed  navigation ;  described  the 
obstacles  to  be  removed  ;  suggested  the  mode  of  removal  ;  calcu- 
lated the  probable  expense  of  some  of  the  operations  ;  and  concluded 
with  a  declaration,  that  '  it  would  require  a  folio  volume  to  point  out 
the  advantages  that  would  result  to  the  Union,  to  the  State,  and  to 
individuals,  by  laying  the  navigation  entirely  open.' 

"Mr.  Watson  did  not  extend  his  travels  to  Oswego,  because  the 
fort  at  that  place  was  still  possessed  by  British  troops,  owing  to  the 
non-execution  of  the  treaty  of  peace.  But  in  his  journal,  Mr.  Wat- 
son said  it  would  be  necessary  to  improve  the  navigation  to  Oswego, 
in  order  to  '  complete  the  chain  of  water  communications  from  Onta- 
rio to  the  Hudson.' 

*'  From  Mr.  Watson's  report,  it  is  obvious  that  the  route  designated 
by  him,  was  from  Schenectady  to  the  Seneca  and  Ontario  lakes  ; 
and  that  he  contemplated  the  improvement  of  the  natural  navigation 
by  the  intermediate  lakes,  rivers  and  creeks,  as  a  medium  of  connec- 
tion between  them,  without  intending  a  continued  canal.  Indeed, 
Mr.  Watson  himself,  speaking  of  his  own  views  and  those  of  his  fel- 

*  History  of  Western  Canals,  p.  30.  f  Tb.  p.  25. 

t  See  Appendix  to  Colonel  Troup's  letter  to  B.  Livingston,  Esq.,  p.  8. 


326 


low-laborers,  frankly  disclaims  all  idea  of  having  suggested  a  contin- 
ued canal,  or  attempted  more  than  to  improve  the  natural  navigation  to 
the  Seneca  and  Ontario  lakes,  when  he  says,  '  that  the  utmost  stretch 
of  our  view  was,  to  follow  the  track  of  Nature's  canal,  and  to  remove 
natural  or  artificial  obstructions;  but  we  never  entertained  the  most 
distant  conception  of  a  canal  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Hudson.  We 
should  not  have  considered  it  much  more  extravagant  to  have  sug- 
gested the  possibility  of  a  canal  to  the  moon.'* 

"  In  answer  to  the  third  question  I  observe,  that,  during  the  years 
1791  and  1792,  Mr.  Watson  and  General  Schuyler  both  lived  in 
Albany,  and  were  in  habits  of  intimacy.  Mr.  Watson,  besides  de- 
livering his  journal  and  report  to  General  Schuyler,  had  frequent  con- 
versations with  him  on  the  matters  they  contained.  In  these  conver- 
sations it  was  agreed,  that  General  Schuyler  should  use  his  exertions 
and  influence  in  the  legislature  to  procure  the  passage  of  an  act  to 
incorporate  a  company  for  opening  the  navigation  from  the  Hudson 
to  Seneca  and  Ontario  lakes.  The  legislature  was  to  set  in  New- 
York  in  the  beginning  of  January,  1792  ;  and  Mr.  Watson's  zeal  for 
the  passage  of  the  act  carried  him  to  New-York  early  in  the  session, 
to  unite  his  exertions  and  influence  with  those  of  General  Schuyler. 
Mr.  Watson  accordingly  remained  several  weeks  in  New-York,  and, 
while  there,  he  afforded  every  aid  in  his  power  to  promote  General 
Schuyler's  success:  and,  after  Mr.  Watson's  return  to  Albany,  he 
made  General  Schuyler  the  tender  of  another  visit  to  New-York,  on 
the  like  errand,  if  the  General  should  think  it  expedient. 

"  Mr.  Watson's  zeal,  however,  did  not  suffer  him  to  stop  here.  So 
far  from  it,  when  in  New- York,  he  addressed  to  the  legislature, 
through  the  medium  of  a  city  paper,  a  piece  under  the  signature  of 

*  A  CiTizEN,'f  in  which  he  represented  the  State,  from  its  geographi- 
cal position,  as  enjoying  advantages  for  internal  intercourse  much 
above  those  of  her  neighbors  ;  communicated  substantially  the  infor- 
mation contained  in  his  jourual  and  in  his  report;  extolled  the  ad- 
vantages that  would  probably  flow  from  a  navigable  intercourse  with 

*  the  great  chain  of  lakes  forming  our  north-western  boundary  ;'  and 
recommended,  with  enthusiastic  ardor,  the  improvement  of  the  navi- 
gation to  the  Seneca  Lake  ;  keeping  always  in  sight  its  further  im- 
provement as  soon  as  'the  British  should  be  dispossessed  of  the  out- 
let of  Oswego  river.'  And  Mr.  Watson's  zeal  for  improving  the 
navigation  continuing  unabated,  he  once  more  pressed  the  subject  on 
the  notice  of  the  legislature,  with  fresh  and  cogent  reasons,  in  a  piece 
under  the  signature  of  *  An  Inland  Navigator,'J  which  he  forwarded 
from  Albany,  and  had  also  published  in  a  New-York  paper. 

"It  unfortunately  happened  that  a  bill  was  brought  into  the  Sen- 
ate, without  the  concurrence  of  Gen.  Schuyler,  the  objects  of  which 

♦See  Mr.  Watson's  History  of  the  Western  Canals,  p.  160. 

+  See  Appendix  to  Col.  Troup's  letter  to  B.  Livingston,  Esq.,  p.  14. 

t  lb.  p.  22. 


OR,    MEMOIES  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  327 

were  the  removal  of  obstructions  in  the  Mohawk  river,  and  the 
junction  of  that  river  with  Wood  Creek  ;  thus  appearing  to  relinquish 
the  improvement  of  the  navigation  to  the  Seneca  and  Ontario  lakes. 
Whilst  this  bill  was  laboring  its  progress  through  the  Senate,  Mr. 
Watson,  then  being  at  Albany,  wrote  a  letter  to  Gen.  Schuyler,  in 
which  he  observed  that  he  had  not  been  *  inattentive  to  the  pro- 
gress of  the  great  objects  of  the  western  canals,  since  the  commence- 
ment of  the  Legislature,'  expressed  '  much  regret  that  no  one  of 
that  body,  except'  the  General,  'appeared  to  soar  beyond  Fort 
Stanwix,'  complained  '  that  stopping  at  Fort  Stanwix  would  be  half 
doing  the  business,'  and  he  declared  that  'although  the  whole  plan 
might  not  be  accomplished  for  years  to  come,  yet  as  the  improve- 
ments on  Wood  Creek  were  indispensable  to  making  the  contem- 
plated canal  at  Fort  Stanwix  of  any  value,  the  charter  should  stretch 
to  Seneca  Lake  and  the  harbor  of  Oswego,  as  pointed  out  in  his 
journal,  and  in  conformity  to  his  conversations  with  the  General,  so 
as  to  admit  the  commerce  of  the  great  lakes  into  Hudson  river,  and 
vice  versa.' 

"Mr.  Watson,  in  the  same  letter,  treated  the  enterprize  as  a 
proper  State  object,  and  he  expressed  a  firm  belief  that  the  '  enter- 
prize would  succeed  if  the  charter  be  so  shaped  as  to  embrace  the 
objects  contemplated  by  him  and  the  General,  and  a  term  of  twenty 
years  be  granted  for  the  completion  of  the  plan.'  And  in  reply  to 
the  objection  that  undertaking  the  enterprise  M^ould  be  premature, 
Mr.  Watson,  in  the  same  letter,  avowed  his  settled  conviction  that 
'the  enterprise  could  not  be  undertaken  too  soon,'  and  consequently 
he  determined  to  do  his  utmost  to  co-operate  with  the  General's 
enlarged  views  of  the  very  important  subject. 

"The  ardent  desire  of  Mr.  Watson  for  a  charter,  on  a  scale  era- 
bracing  the  navigation  of  the  Seneca  and  Ontario  lakes,  was  finally 
gratified  by  the  passing  of  the  canal  Act  of  March,  1792,  which  was  the 
golden  fruit  of  Gen.  Schuyler's  eminent  talents  and  controllinginfluence. 

"  Gen.  Schuyler,  ever  disdaining  to  receive  honors  not  fairly  his 
due,  often  acknowledged*  to  that  excellent  man  and  public-spirited 
citizen,  the  late  Thomas  Eddy,  that  'the  observations  made  by  Mr. 
Watson,  in  his  tour  to  the  western  part  of  the  State,  in  1791,  first 
turned  his  attention  to  that  important  object,  and  induced  him  to 
offer  to  the  Senate  the  Act  Incorporating  the  Western  and  Northern 
Inland  Lock  Navigation  Companies.' 

"The  facts  which  I  have  thus  detailed,  will  be  found  in  Mr.  Wat- 
son's '  History  of  the  Western  Canals,'  published  in  1820,  and  also 
in  a  letter  from  me,  'On  the  Lake  Canal  Policy,'  addressed  to  the 
late  Brockholst  Livingston,  Esq.,  one  of  the  associate  Justices  of  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  and  published  in  1822. 

"  The  consideration  of  these  facts  will  naturally  lead  to  the  con- 
clusion that  they  form  the  ground   on  which  Mr.  Watson  rests  his 

*  See  Appendix  to  Col.  Troup's  Letter  to  B.  Livingston,  Esq.,  p.  31 


328  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

claims  to  a  portion  of  public  gratitude  for  his  labors  to  improve  the 
inland  navigation  of  the  State. 

•'  I  am  much  deceived  if  the  facts  do  not  irresistibly  show  that  Mr. 
Watson's  labors  have  been  useful.  Their  usefulness  consists  in  his 
travelling  to  explore  our  western  country,  its  lakes,  rivers,  and  creeks, 
— in  his  observations  on  the  practicability  of  a  navigable  communica- 
tion between  the  Hudson  and  the  western  lakes — in  his  communica- 
tions to  Gen.  Schuyler — in  his  concerting  with  the  General  a  plan  of 
navigation  embracing  the  western  lakes,  to  be  submitted  to  the  Le- 
gislature— and,  lastly,  in  his  unwearied  pains  to  assist  Gen.  Schuyler 
to  obtain  a  preference  for  the  concerted  plan,  by  the  passing  of  the 
canal  act  of  March,  1792. 

"There  can  be  no  reasonable  objection  against  admitting  that  this 
act  was  the  commencement  of  our  State  canal  policy.  Before  the 
existence  of  the  act,  nothing  appeared  in  the  community  on  the  sub- 
ject of  canalling,  except  the  different  commercial  speculations  of 
individuals  respecting  it.  To  dignify  their  speculations  with  the  title 
of  State  policy,  would  be  preposterous.  That  the  policy  pursued  by 
a  Stats  can  only  be  known  from  the  schemes  adopted  by  its  consti- 
tuted authorities,  and  from  the  measures  taken  to  carry  such  schemes 
into  effect,  is  a  position  too  evident  to  require  an  illustration.  It  was 
the  act,  therefore,  that  first  gave  body  and  life  to  the  floating  ideas 
about  canalling,  by  the  incorporation  of  a  company  to  undertake  the 
expensive  and  arduous  enterprise  of  opening  a  canal  navigation  to 
unite  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  with  those  of  the  western  lakes,  and 
by  endowing  the  company  with  rights  to  authorize,  and  privileges  to 
facilitate  its  successful  prosecution. 

"To  maintain  that  the  act  was  unimportant  in  its  consequences, 
would  be  to  incur  the  censure  of  violating  the  dictates  of  sound  sense, 
and  disregarding  the  plain  language  of  experience.  Although  the 
funds  of  the  company  incorporated  were  wholly  inadequate  to  the 
construction  of  canals  calculated  to  promote  the  highest  interests  of 
the  State ;  yet  the  operations  of  the  company,  proceeding  from  the 
employment  of  their  scanty  funds,  considerably  reduced  the  rates 
of  transportation,  and  thereby  proved  not  a  little  beneficial  to  trade. 
But  the  most  important  consequence  of  the  act  was,  that  even  the 
limited  benefits  it  produced  to  trade  seemed  to  keep  the  public  eye 
fixed  on  the  highly  interesting  objects  of  canal  policy,  and  eventually 
to  induce  our  wise  and  patriotic  rulers  to  adopt  a  system  of  canalling 
which,  from  the  grandeur  of  its  design,  and  the  magnanimity  of  its 
execution,  has  become  the  pride  of  the  State  and  the  admiration  of 
the  Union, 

"Allow  me,  dear  sir,  to  conclude  this  letter  with  the  assurance  of 
my  unfeigned  gratification   that  it  has  fallen  to  your  lot  to  perform 
the  meritorious  work  in  which  you  are  engaged  ;  for  your  able,  ele- 
gant, and  impartial  eulogium   on   the  illustrious   De  Witt  Clinton 
persuades  me  to  believe  the  work  will   be  performed  in  a  manner 


OR,    MEMOIES   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  329 


as  justly  entitling  it  to  the  praise  of  every  unprejudiced  and  intelli- 
gent reader,  as  well  of  the  present  age  as  of  posterity. 
"  With  the  most  perfect  esteem,  I  remain,  dear  sir, 
"  Your  humble  servant, 

"Robert  Troup. 
"To  David  Hosack,  M.  D." 

The  two  first  of  the  succeeding  letters  of  Mr.  Adams  were 
also  published  in  the  Appendix  to  Dr.  Hosack's  work,  with 
these  connments  :* 

"In  connection  with  this  part  of  the  subject,  it  gives  me 
pleasure  to  give  place  to  the  following  interesting  letters  from 
the  late  President  of  the  United  States,  John  Adams,  to  Mr- 
Watson,  in  the  years  1822  and  '23  :" 

"  QuiNCT,  23c/  December,  1822. 
"  Dear  Sir  : 

*'I  have  received  and  heard  read  Col.  Troup's  letter  to  Judge  Liv- 
ingston of  the  23rd  January  last. 

"  You  need  hot  wish  a  more  ingenious,  a  more  spirited  or  able 
vindication  of  your  claims  to  the  first  suggestion  of  the  canal  policy 
in  New-York,  and  of  General  Schuyler's  sagacious  patriotism  in 
adopting  and  supporting  your  ideas  in  the  legislature.  You  have 
both  great  merit,  but  still  I  think  Mr.  Clinton  has  also  great  merit 
in  supporting  your  plan.  It  is  right  to  preserve  the  memory  of  the 
first  discoverers  and  inventors  of  useful  improvements  for  the  ameli- 
oration of  the  condition  of  mankind. 

"  The  gentlemen  who  w^ere  my  cotemporaries  at  Philadelphia  used 
to  say,  that  the  first  discovery  of  the  efficiency  of  lightning  rods,  was 
Ebenezer  Kennesley,  a  young  gentleman  of  an  ardent  thirst  for 
science,  who  drew  lightning  from  the  clouds,  by  his  iron  pointed  kites, 
before  Dr.  Franklin  had  attempted  anything  on  the  subject. 

"  Why,  indeed,  may  we  not  say,  that  this  discovery  was  made  in 
the  reign  of  the  Roman  Emperor  Tiberius,  for  in  his  reign  the  astro- 
nomical and  astrological  poet  Manilius  wrote  these  lines,  '  eripuit 
jovi  fulmen,  vires  que  tonandi  V  Yet  all  this  in  no  degree  diminishes 
the  great  merit  of  Dr.  Franklin,  in  maturing,  digesting  and  propagat- 
ing to  the  world  his  system  of  lightning  rods. 

"  It  would  be  well  to  ascertain,  if  it  were  possible,  the  first  discoverer 
of  the  invaluable  power  of  steam.  While  we  should  do  honor  to  his 
memory,  we  should  not  withhold  our  admiration  and  gratitude  from 
the  great  Fulton,  whose  steam  navigation  will  be  of  greater  benefit 

*  Hosack's  Memoirs  of  Clinton,  p.  297. 


330 


to  mankind  than  Franklin's  philosophy,  although  that  is  very  great. 
While  I  wish  to  do  honor  to  these  great  men,  I  ought  to  bear  testi- 
mony to  the  merit  of  your  long  exertions,  which,  I  think,  have  been 
very  useful  to  our  country. 

"  With  much  pleasure  I  repeat  the  assurance  of  the  long  and  contin- 
ued esteem  and  affection  of  your  friend  and  humble  servant. 

"  John  Adams." 


"  QuiNCY,  28/A  February,  1822. 
"  My  dear  Friend  : 

"  I  thank  you  for  your  letter  of  the  12th  inst.,  and  forjudge  Troup's 
letter. 

"  I  am  very  much  obliged  to  him  for  his  civility  to  me,  as  well  as 
for  his  testimonies  in  honor  of  your  meritorious  services  for  the 
public  good. 

"  Your  active  life  has  been  employed,  as  far  as  I  have  known  the 
history  of  it,  in  promoting  useful  knowledge  and  useful  arts ;  for 
which  1  hope  you  have  received,  or  will  receive,  a  due  reward.  Shafts 
are  wanton  sports,  and  secret  and  public  malice  are  common  to  you 
and  all  men,  who  distinguish  themselves — 

*  Envy  doth  merit,  as  its  shade  pursue, 
Afid  like  the  shadow,  prove  its  substance  true.' 

"This,  or  something  more  sublime,  must  be  the  consolation  of  us 
all. 

"  Your  friend  (by  proxy), 

"  John  Adams. 

*'  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq.,  Albany.'''* 


Extract  of  a  letter  from  John  Adams  to  Elkanah  Watson. 

"QuiNCY,  Montezillo,  2dih  March,  1822. 
"  Dear  Sir  : 

"  I  have  received  your  favor  of  the   17th  inst.     You  may  do  wha 
you  please  wiih  my  letter  of  the  23rd  December.     ***** 
It  would  give  me  great  pleasure  to  peruse  all   your -publications,  and 
to  correspond  with  you  on  the  subject  of  them,  but  I  can  read  no- 
thing, and  scarcely  write  the  name  of 

"  Your  friend, 

"  John  Adams." 


OR,   MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  331 

"QuiNCY,  Slst  December,  1822. 

"  Sir — I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  26th ;   with  my  blind  eyes 
and  palsied  hands — 

"  Tantas  componere  lites  non  possum.' 

"1  am,  with  usual  regards,  &c., 

"  John  Adams. 
"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq." 


332  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

Attacks  on  Land  Office — Character  of  General  Schuyler — General  Var- 
nam— Sketch  of  his  Life — Letter  to  his  Wife — Talleyrand — French 
Emigrants — War  with  France — Truxton  —  Projects  of  local  and 
public  improvements — Chancellor  Livingston — His  character  and 
services — Letters  from  him — Louisiana  Treaty — Introduces  Merino 
Sheep — Sheep  Shearing  Festival — Prices  of  Merinos — Doctor  Mitch- 
ell— General  Humphreys — Letter  from  him — Steamboats — Mr.  Mul- 
ler — Music  from  Jews'  Harps — Letters  to  and  from  John  Adams — 
Hostility  of  Hamilton  to  him. 

Popular  feeling  was  strongly  excited  in  the  years  '91  and  '92, 
by  imputations  upon  the  proceedings  of  the  Board  of  Commis- 
sioners of  the  Land  Office,  in  their  management  of  the  vast  public 
domain  of  the  State.  The  facts  upon  which  these  animadver- 
sions were  based,  or  their  justice,  it  is  not  necessary  at  this 
remote  day  to  investigate.  Mr.  Watson  assailed  their  measures 
with  great  severity,  in  a  series  of  articles  under  the  signature  of 
"  A  Northern  Sentinel/'  which  were  very  extensively  pub- 
lished, and  which  appear,  from  the  ample  evidence  before  me,  to 
have  excited  very  general  attention.  General  Schuyler  sympa- 
thized with  these  views  ;  and  an  intimate  intercourse,  political 
and  personal,  was  formed  between  him  and  Mr.  Watson,  which 
was  subsequently  cemented  by  their  combined  labor  in  the  pro- 
motion of  the  canal  pohcy  of  the  State,  and  the  procuring  of 
the  charter  of  the  Albany  Bank. 

A  difference  and  conflict  of  opinion,  as  directors  in  the  ca- 
nal companies,  afterwards  produced  a  coldness  and  alienation 
between  them ;  but  the  deep  reverence  of  Mr.  Watson  for  the 
great  talent,  the  self-sacrificing  patriotism,  and  the  eminent 
services  of  General  Schuyler  to  his  country,  Was  never  dimin- 
ished.    He  refers  to  him  in  the  following  language  : 

"  General  Schuyler  possessed  the  highest  order  of  talents, 
but  without  varied  scholastic  attainments.     He  was  a  profound 


OK,  MEMOIKS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  333 

mathematician,  and  held  a  powerful  pen  ;  his  industry  was  un- 
exampled ;  his  business  habits  were  accurate  and  systematic, 
acquired  under  the  discipline  of  General  Bradstreet  of  the 
British  Army,  who  was  a  distinguished  friend  of  his  family. 
Having  extensively  travelled,  and  mingled  with  the  highest  cir- 
cles of  society,  he  was  eminently  refined  in  his  sentiments, 
and  elegant  in  his  address. 

"  Had  Providence  blessed  Philip  Schuyler  with  the  same 
equanimity  of  mind  and  self-control  which  distinguished  Wash- 
ington, he  would  have  been  his  equal  in  all  the  elevated  moral 
and  military  attributes  of  his  character.  America  owed  to 
Schuyler  a  vast  debt  of  gratitude  for  his  distinguished  services 
both  in  the  cabinet  and  in  the  field.  It  was  said,  and  probably 
with  good  reason,  that  he  w^as  of  material  assistance  to  the 
great  Hamilton,  (who  was  his  son-in-law,)  in  framing  that  mag- 
nificent financial  system,  by  which  the  loose  floating  paper 
currency  of  the  government  was  funded  ;  thus  educing  order 
and  system  from  chaos,  and  forming,  by  the  magic  of  genius,  an 
active  capital  out  of  the  onerous  and  apparently  crushing  debt 
of  our  Independence. 

"  To  the  consummate  strategic  skill,  and  the  wise  Fabian 
policy  of  Schuyler,  we  were  indebted  for  the  conquest  of  Bur- 
goyne.  At  the  moment  in  which  he  was  about  to  reap  the 
fruition  of  his  sacrifices  and  labors,  he  was  superseded.  When 
the  laurels  he  had  so  well  earned  were  almost  within  his  grasp, 
they  were  cruelly  wrested  from  him.  He  was  sacrificed  by  a 
spirit  of  intrigue  and  insubordination  in  his  army,  cherished, 
probably,  by  the  mutual  animosity  which  existed  between  him- 
self and  the  men  of  New-England.  The  idea  generally  prevail- 
ed in  those  States,  that  Schuyler  fostered  a  hereditary  prejudice 
against  them,  while  the  stern  and  arbitrary  measures  which  at 
times  marked  his  military  career,  and  had  probably  been  im-'' 
bibed  in  the  discipline  of  the  .British  Army,  revolted  their  sen- 
timents of  equality  and  independence.  Philip  Schuyler  was  a 
pure  and  devoted  patriot,  and  a  great  man  ;  and  although  my 
enemy  in  his  closing  years,  I  freely  record  my  homage  of  admi- 


334  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

ration  and  gratitude.  His  influence  and  abilities  enforced  the 
passage  of  the  Canal  Act  of  '92." 

Although  out  of  the  chronological  arrangement,  I  will  here 
introduce  from  Mr.  Watson's  Sketch  Book,  notices  of  another 
general  of  the  Revolution,  which  contains  some  interesting 
reminiscences. 

"  James  Mitchell  Varnum  was  appointed  a  Brigadier-Gen- 
eral, in  ihe  Rhode  Island  line,  at  an  early  period  of  the  Revo- 
lution. He  resided  in  East  Greenwich,  and  was  one  of  the 
most  eminent  lawyers  and  distinguished  orators  in  the  colonies. 

"  I  first  saw  this  learned  and  amiable  man  in  1774,  when  I 
heard  him  deliver  a  Masonic  oration.  Until  that  moment  I 
had  formed  no  conception  of  the  power  and  charms  of  oratory. 
I  was  so  deeply  impressed,  that  the  effect  of  his  splendid  exhi- 
bition has  remained  for  forty-eight  years  indelibly  fixed  upon 
my  mind.  I  then  compared  his  mind  to  a  beautiful  parterre, 
from  which  he  was  enabled  to  pluck  the  most  gorgeous  and 
fanciful  flowers,  in  his  progress,  to  enrich  and  embellish  his 
subject.  Lavater  would  have  pronounced  him  an  orator,  from 
the  vivid  flashing  of  his  eye,  and  the  delicate  beauty  of  his 
classic  mouth. 

"  He  marched  into  Providence,  with  his  company,  on  the 
evening  of  the  20th  of  April,  '77,  on  his  way  to  Lexington.* 
Green  and  Varnum  were  both  soon  after  appointed  brigadiers, 
and  attached  to  the  army  besieging  Boston.  Varnum  contin- 
ued several  years  in  the  army,  and  saw  some  service  :  he  was 
a  good  disciplinarian,  and  invaluable  in  council.  He  held  an 
excellent   pen,   commanding   a  rich   flow  of    eloquence  and 

*  I  have  stated  in  an  early  page  that  Gen.  Green  entered  Providence  at  the 
same  time,  in  command  of  a  company.  Col.  Ephraim  Bov^en,  who  was  a  member 
of  the  Cadet  Company  with  me,  and  who  I  have  already  quoted  in  a  note,  in  an 
account  of  the  "  Gaspee  "  affair — assured  me  (October,  1821,)  that  I  am  in  error  in 
identifying  Nathaniel  Green  with  the  Capt.  Green  who  commanded  the  Warwich 
Greens  ;  and  that  although  Gen.  Green  marched  into  Providence  on  that  occa- 
sion, it  was  as  a  private  in  Capt.  Varnum's  Company,  and  while  he  still  held  his 
connection  with  the  Quaker  Society.  These  concurrences  of  names  and  circum- 
stances may  have  created  a  mistake.  After  Gen.  Green  had  acquired  his  subse- 
quent celebrity  I  heard  the  fact,  as  I  have  represented  it,  often  referred  to. 


335 

beauty ;    embellished    by   all    the    ornaments   and    grace   of 
rhetoric. 

"  Whilst  in  command  at  Taunton,  he  addressed  an  admira- 
ble letter  to  the  commanding  officer  of  the  Hessians,  on  Rhode 
Island,  and  sent  it  in  by  a  flag.  The  letter  was  a  transcript 
of  his  views  on  the  great  controversy  with  England,  and  was 
considered  an  able  argument  on  the  subject.  It  was  subse- 
quently published  in  England,  and  reflected  much  credit  on 
the  author.  At  the  close  of  his  military  career,  he  resumed  his 
professional  attitude,  and  often  came  into  conflict  with  Henry 
Goodwin,  his  great  rival  in  eloquence,  but  of  a  totally  distinct 
school.  While  Varnum's  oratory  was  mild  and  conciliatory, 
and  flowing  in  majestic  and  persuasive  eloquence,  Goodwin's 
was  wrapt  in  fire  and  energy,  mingled  with  the  most  burning 
sarcasm. 

"In  the  year  1785,  General  Varnum  formed  the  project  of 
establishing  a  colony  on  the  north  branch  of  the  Ohio  river, 
and  erecting  a  city  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum.  He 
urged  me  to  unite  in  the  adventure.  He  carried  out  his  design, 
and  founded  Marietta,  which  he  named  in  honor  of  the  Queen 
of  France.  After  my  return  from  North  Carolina,  in  1788,  I 
was  present  when  his  wife  received  a  letter,  full  of  pathos  and 
sensibility,  and  highly  impressive  in  some  of  its  aspects.  She 
allowed  me,  as  the  intimate  friend  of  her  husband,  to  read  it. 
It  subsequently  found  its  way  into  the  newspapers.  The  fol- 
lowing extract  is  worthy  of  preservation  : 

"Marietta,  18/A  December,  1788. 

"My  DEAREST  Friend  : 

"  1  now  write  you  from  ray  sick  chamber — perhaps  it  will  be  tho 
last  letter  you  will  ever  receive  from  me.  I  expect  to  leave  this,  on 
Sunday  next,  for  the  falls  of  the  Ohio  ;  thence  to  New-Orleans  and  the 
West  Indies,  to  seek  a  warmer  climate,  the  only  chance  of  my  recov- 
ery. My  physician  thinks  the  chance  of  recovery  in  my  favor.  I 
am  neither  elevated  or  depressed  by  the  force  of  this  opinion ;  and 
will  indulge  a  hope  that  I  shall  once  more  embrace  my  lovely  friend 
in  this  world  ;  and  that  we  may  glide  smoothly  down  the  tide  of  time, 
for  a  few  years  more,  and  mutually  enjoy  the  more  substantial  hap- 
piness, as  we  have  already  the  desirable  pleasures  of  life. 


336  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION; 

"  But,  my  lovely  friend,  the  gloomy  moment  will  arrive,  when  we 
must  part ;  should  it  happen  during  our  present  separation,  my  last, 
and  my  only  reluctant  thought,  will  be  employed  about  you. 

•'Life  is  but  a  bubble  :  it  soon  bursts,  and  is  remitted  to  eternity. 
When  we  look  back  to  the  earliest  recollections  of  our  youthful  hours, 
it  seems  but  the  last  period  of  our  rest,  and  we  appear  to  emerge 
from  a  night  of  slumber,  to  look  forward  to  real  existence.  When 
we  look  forward,  time  appears  as  interminable  as  eternity,  and  we 
have  no  idea  of  its  termination,  but  by  the  period  of  our  dissolution. 
What  particular  connection  it  bears  to  a  future  state,  our  general  no- 
tions of  religion  cannot  point  out.  We  feel  something  constantly 
active  within  us,  which  is  evidently  beyond  the  reach  of  mortality; 
whether  it  be  part  of  ourselves,  or  an  emanation  from  the  Great 
Source  of  all  existence,  or  reabsorbed  when  death  shall  have  finished 
his  work,  human  wisdom  cannot  determine.  Whether  the  demoli- 
tion of  our  body  introduces  only  a  change  in  the  manner  of  our  being, 
and  leaves  us  to  progress,  infinitely,  alternately  elevated  or  de- 
pressed, according  to  the  propriety  of  our  conduct — or  whether  we 
return  to  the  mass  of  unthinking  matter,  philosophy  hesitates  to 
decide. 

"I  know,  therefore,  but  one  source  from  whence  can  be  derived 
complete  consolation  in  a  dying  hour ;  and  that  is  the  divine  system 
contained  in  the  Gospel  of  Jesus  Christ.  There,  life  and  immortality 
are  brought  to  light ;  there,  we  are  taught  that  our  existence  is  to  be 
eternal ;  and  secure  of  an  interest  in  the  atoning  mercies  of  a  bleed- 
ing Saviour,  that  we  shall  be  inconceivably  happy. 

"  A  firm,  unshaken  faith  in  this  doctrine,  must  raise  us  above  the 
doubts  and  fears  that  hang  upon  every  other  system,  and  enable  us  to 
view  with  calm  serenity  the  approach  of  the  King  of  terrors  ;  and  be- 
hold Him  as  a  kind,  indulgent  friend,  spending  his  shafts,  only  to 
carry  us  sooner  to  our  everlasting  home. 

"  Should  there  yet  be  a  more  extensive  religion  beyond  the  vail, 
the  Christian  religion  is  by  no  means  shaken  thereby,  as  it  is  not  op- 
posed to  any  principle  that  admits  the  perfect  benevolence  of  the 
Deity.  I  hope  and  pray,  the  Divine  Spirit  will  give  me  such  assur- 
ance of  an  acceptance  with  God,  through  the  death  and  sufferings  of 
His  Son,  as  to  brighten  the  way  to  immediate  happiness. 

"  Dry  up  your  tears,  my  charming  mourner  ;  nor  suffer  this  letter 
to  give  you  much  inquietude.  Consider  the  facts  at  present,  as  in 
theory ;  but  the  sentiments  such  as  will  apply,  whenever  the  great 
change  shall  come.  Give  my  sincere  love  to  all  those  you  hold  dear. 
Adieu  !  my  dearest  friend  ;  and  while  I  fervently  devote,  in  one  un- 
divided prayer,  our  immortal  souls  to  the  care,  forgiveness,  mercy, 
and  all  prevailing  grace  of  Heaven,  in  time  and  through  eternity,  I 
must  now  bid  you — a  long — long — long  farewell. 

'•James  M.  Varnum."    ^ 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  337 

**  General  Varnum  died  a  few  days  after  the  date  of  this  letter, 
at  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio.  I  knew  that  General  Varnum  had 
indulged,  to  a  degree,  in  skeptical  and  philosophical  opinions, 
hence  the  great  additional  value  of  this  mature  effusion  of  his 
most  secret  soul,  on  a  dying  bed.  For  this  reason  I  have  in- 
troduced his  sentiments.  They  exerted  a  benign  influence 
upon  my  own  mind,  and  I  earnestly  trust  they  may  be  equally 
useful  to  others." 

The  residence  for  a  short  period  of  Talleyrand  in  this  coun- 
try, during  his  exile,  in  a  condition  of  indigence  and  destitution, 
is  a  historic  fact.  His  circumstances  and  position  are  some- 
what illustrated  by  trivial  incidents,  which  have  been  noticed 
in  the  manuscripts  of  Mr.  Watson : 

"  In  the  years  1794  and  '95, 1  resided  in  the  northern  suburbs 
of  Albany,  then  known  as  the  Colonic.  Mons.  Le  Contaulx, 
formerly  of  Paris,  a  very  amiable  man,  was  my  opposite  neigh- 
bor. His  residence  was  the  resort  of  the  French  emigrants. 
During  that  period,  Count  Le  Tour  du  Pin,  a  distinguished 
French  noble,  made  a  hair-breadth  escape  from  Bordeaux,  with 
his  elegant  and  accomplished  wife,  the  daughter  of  Count 
Dillon.  They  were  concealed  in  that  city  for  six  terrible 
weeks,  during  the  sanguinary  atrocities  of  Tallien,  and  ar- 
rived at  Boston  with  two  trunks  of  fine  towels,  containing 
several  hundred  in  each;  the  only  property  they  had  been 
able  to  save  from  the  wreck  of  an  immense  estate.  They 
came  to  Albany  and  brought  me  a  letter  of  introduction  from 
Thomas  Russell,  an  eminent  merchant  of  Boston.  Soon  after 
they  purchased  a  little  farm,  upon  an  eminence  nearly  opposite 
Troy. 

"  Here  they  were  joined  by  Talleyrand,  who  had  arrived 
about  the  same  time  in  Albany  ;  also,  an  exile,  and  in  want. 
1  became  intimate  with  them,  from  these  circumstances,  from 
my  familiarity  with  their  country  and  knowledge  of  the  French 
language.  They  avowed  their  poverty,  and  resided  together 
on  the  little  farm,  suffering  severe  privations,  bringing  to 
Albany  the  surplus  produce  of  their  land,  and  habitually  stop- 

22 


338 

ping  with  their  butter  and  eggs  at  my  door.  They  yielded 
with  a  good  grace  to  their  humihating  condition. 

''  In  tlie  winter  following,  I  was  surrounded  in  my  office  by 
a  group  of  distinguished  Frenchmen  :  the  Count,  Talleyrand? 
Volney,  the  philosophical  writer  and  traveller,  Mons.  Pharoux, 
a  very  learned  man,  and  Des  Jardin,  a  former  Chamberlain 
of  Louis  XVI.  They  considered  me  a  Frenchman  at  heart, 
and  appeared  to  forget  that  I  was  an  American,  jealous  of  the 
rights,  liberties  and  honor  of  my  countr3^  Their  remarks  were 
often  revolting  to  my  sentiments  and  national  pride.  Sympa- 
thy and  compassion  for  their  fallen  estate,  constrained  me  to 
endure  this  language,  although  they  did  not  hesitate  to  avow 
their  detestation  of  American  institutions,  and  their  disgust  at 
our  manners  and  habits. 

"  On  the  occasion  referred  to,  after  having  indulged  in  this 
train  of  remark,  and  speculating  upon  the  posture  of  European 
affairs,  Des  Jardin  at  length  turning  to  me,  exclaimed,  'Yes, 
my  friend,  before  this  war'  (the  war  waged  by  despotism  against 
republican  principles)  'shall  end,  your  frontier  will  be  lined 
with  French  bayonets.'  To  this  sentiment  they  all  seemed  to 
respond  in  acquiescence.  My  American  blood  was  excited 
beyond  forbearance,  and  I  replied,  '  God  grant,  if  so,  that  the 
invaders  may  be  repelled  at  the  threshold,  or  exterminated  to  a 
man.'  Here  we  were  at  issue,  and  our  social  intercourse 
terminated. 

"Soon  after  this,  Talleyrand  was  swaying  a  potent. influence 
in  the  councils  of  France.  Whether  these  hostile  sentiments 
were  infused  into  the  Directory,  I  have  no  knowledge;  but  it 
is  certain,  when  our  three  Envoys  were  literally  supplicating 
for  peace,  at  the  foot-stool  of  this  power,  they  were  received 
with  an  arrogance  and  intolerance  that  insulted  the  dignity, 
and  trampled  contemptuously  upon  the  independence  of  a  free 
nation.  This,  however,  was  the  extreme  point  of  our  degrada- 
tion. Adams  was  found  a  lion  in  the  path  of  these  aggressions. 
An  open  war  ensued,  in  whicli  our  infant  Navy,  the  child  of 
his  own  creation,  gloriously  sustained  the  honor  of  our  flag,  and 
our  national  rights.    Truxton,  in  the  '  Constellation,'  captured  a 


OR,    MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  339 

French  frigate  of  equal  size,  and  repelled  the  attack  of  a  second. 
Truxton  against  France,  was  the  language  of  the  day  ;  for  he 
performed  alone  in  his  gallant  ship,  all  the  fighting.  The 
French  Government  retracted,  and  an  honorable  peace  was 
consummated.'' 

During  the  period  of  several  succeeding  years,  Mr.  Watson 
was  chiefly  engaged  in  private  avocations ;  but  his  mind  and  pen 
were,  with  his  accustomed  ardour  and  activity,  occupied  in  the 
advancement  of  various  projects  of  social  and  public  improve- 
ment. Free-schools,  turnpike  roads — two  of  which  he  urged 
with  unwonted  earnestness :  one,  it  was  proposed,  should  be  con- 
structed on  the  margin  of  the  Hudson,  between  New-York  and 
Albany,  and  another  from  the  latter  place  to  Schenectady — 
the  creation  of  avenues  into  the  new  territories,  both  north  and 
west,  which  were  just  opening  to  emigration,  by  roads  to 
be  constructed  by  the  State,  and  the  adoption  of  a  State-prison 
system,  were  among  the  subjects  which  he  pressed  upon  the 
public  attention.  Voluminous  essays  on  all  these  and  other 
interesting  and  important  topics,  are  embraced  in  his  common- 
place book.  The  incorporation  of  the  "  State  Bank"  at  Al- 
bany was  a  scheme  conceived  by  his  mind  and  obtained  prin- 
cipally through  his  ardent  and  untiring  exertions. 

In  the  promotion  of  these  objects,  he  was  brought  into  inti- 
mate association  with  many  of  the  conspicuous  men  of  the 
State.  An  intercourse  with  Chancellor  Livingston  was  thus 
formed,  which  continued  in  a  close  intimacy  to  the  termi- 
nation of  his  patriotic  career.  In  the  correspondence  of  Chan- 
cellor Livingston,  is  included  a  letter  written  at  Paris,  25th 
June,  1803,  which  is  of  much  interest,  as  it  presents,  in  a  free 
communication  of  friendship,  his  own  views  of  his  services 
and  his  connection  with  the  achievement  of  the  treaty  of  Lou- 
isiana ;  and  may  be  regarded  as  shedding  light  on  that  much 
controverted  question.     Mr.  Watson  remarks  : 

"My  first  acquaintance  with  this  celebrated  and  excellent 
person,  was  in  April,  '92.  I  had  devoted  myself  with  unusual 
zeal,  in  efl^ecting  the  preliminaries  to  the  organization  of  the 
Albany  Bank :  in  resisting  strong  prejudice,  and  combating 


340  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

gross  ignorance.  The  organization  being  accomplished,  the 
next  step  was  to  secure  the  incorpo  ation.  This  was  commit- 
ted to  the  powerful  influence  and  talents  of  Gen.  Schuyler, 
who,  by  the  most  vigorous  efforts,  forced  it  through  both  houses 
of  the  Legislature.  At  his  request  I  went  to  New-York,  and 
found  the  bill  was  suspended  in  the  Council  of  Revision.  The 
General  pressed  me,  with  great  earnestness,  to  exert  myself,  as 
eight  of  the  ten  constitutional  days  for  its  return  had  already 
passed,  and  he  feared  an  adverse  decision.  I  labored  until  a 
late  hour  that  night,  with  my  uncle,  Judge  Hobert,  who  was 
one  of  the  council,  and  succeeded  in  satisfying  him  of  the 
justice  and  propriety  of  the  measure. 

"The  next  morning  I  was  introduced  to  Chancellor  Liv- 
ingston, by  my  old  travelling  companion  of  the  preceding  year, 
Mr.  Bayard.  The  Chancellor  stated  his  objections,  and,  as  he 
remarked,  '  I  was  fortunate  in  removing  them.'  About  noon 
of  the  same  day,  I  was  in  the  Senate  Chamber  of  the  old  City 
Hall,  when  the  Chancellor  tapped  me  on  the  shoulder  with  the 
bill  in  his  hand,  saying, '  Your  Bank  is  incorporated.' 

"  The  second  occasion  which  promoted  our  intercourse,  will 
be  explained  by  the  subjoined  letter.  I  had  made  great  exer- 
tion, the  winter  previous,  to  promote  a  subscription  for  creating 
a  fund  to  encourage  the  increase  and  improvement  in  the  manu- 
facture of  maple  sugar ;  and  to  obtain  legislative  aid  to  the 
important  object.  The  letter  of  Chancellor  Livingston  will 
present  his  views  and  co-operation  on  the  subject. 

"  New-York,  16/A  February,  1793. 

".Sir: — On  the  receipt  of  your  letter,  with  the  sample  of  maple 
sugar,  I  called  together  the  Agricultural  Society,  who  readily  agreed 
to  give  every  possible  support  to  your  petition.  A  committee  was 
appointed  to  form  a  memorial  on  that  subject ;  but  this  committee, 
not  meeting  so  early  as  I  wished,  I  wrote  to  the  Speaker,  enclosing 
your  representations,  and  urging  the  Legislature,  in  the  strongest 
terms,  to  take  up  the  business:  which  they  accordingly  did,  and  ap- 
pointed a  committee  who,  after  conferring  with  the  Agricultural  So- 
ciety, reported  in  favor  of  a  bounty,  as  Mr.  Ten  Brook  has  informed 
you.  It  has,  however,  met  with  such  opposition  since,  that  I  am 
satisfied  (to  my  great  regret)  that  it  will  not  go  through  this  session. 


341 

Nothing  however,  shall  be  wanting  on  my  part,  to  give  it  success, 
since  I  am  fully  satisfied  of  the  importance  of  the  object. 

"  The  success  which  your  patriotic  exertions,  and  those  of  the  gen- 
tlemen connected  with  you  have  met  with,  in  improving  the  quality 
of  the  sugar,  shows  the  importance  of  this  object  in  a  very  strong 
point  of  view,  and  appeared  to  have  made  a  very  good  impression 
upon  a  number  of  gentlemen,  who  had  hitherto  considered  the  whole 
a  visionary  business. 

"  I  am,  sir,  your  most  ob'd't  and  humble  serv't, 

"Robert  R.  Livingston. 

"Mr.  Elkanah  Watson." 

"  I  received  from  him  the  following  letter  whilst  in  Paris, 
relative  to  the  negotiation  for  the  cession  of  Louisiana, 
within  two  months  only  after  the  treaty  was  signed : 

"Paris,  2bth  June,  1803. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — I  received  your  favor  of  the  4th  August,  a  very 
long  time  after  it  was  written,  and  the  necessity  of  making  the  in- 
quiries you  wished,  delayed  my  answer  till  the  active  turn  my 
negotiations  took  here,  on  the  subject  of  the  American  claims  and 
Louisiana,  and  discussions  on  the  subject  of  the  war,  to  which  I  was 
obliged  to  give  the  closest  attention,  in  order  to  be  well  informed, 
and  avail  myself  of  circumstances  as  they  arose,  put  almost  every 
private  concern  out  of  my  mind.  I  have,  however,  made  the  neces- 
sary inquiries.  The  sample  you  sent  me  is  of  that  pure  species  of 
gypsum,  from  which  many  works  of  ornament  are  made,  which  is 
commonly  called  alabaster.  It  is  only  valuable  where  it  can  be 
found  in  very  large  blocks,  and  perfectly  free  from  stains  or  fissures; 
and  even  then  would  be  of  little  worth,  except  in  countries  where  it 
would  be  worked  to  advantage.  Your  hill  has  a  better  and  more 
confirmed  value,  in  being  a  source  of  manure  to  all  the  country  in  its 
vicinity. 

"  I  am  very  sorry  that  you  cannot  gratify  your  wishes,  and  spend 
some  more  of  your  time  in  Paris,  which  you  would  find  very  much 
improved.  The  First  Consul  has  given  great  attention  to  this  object, 
and  independent  of  the  immense  collections  of  pictures,  statues,  books, 
natural  history,  &c.,  the  city  itself  is  improved.  Old  buildings  that 
masked  stately  edifices  are  pulled  down,  and  works  undertaken  that 
the  Bourbons  did  not  dare  to  ventnre  upon.  All  the  houses  in  front 
of  the  Tuilleries  are  pulled  down,  so  as  to  enlarge  the  square,  and 
show  a  great  part  of  that  immense  building.  The  two  streets,  with 
all  their  houses  on  the  north  of  the  Tuilleries  are  also  prostrated,  so 
as  to  open  a  grand  passage  all  around  the  gardens  upon  a  line  with 
the  royal  garderobe.     The  river  Ourg  is  on  its  way  to  Paris,  and  will 


342 


afford  a  full  supply  for  use  and  ornament.  Numberless  improve- 
ments are  projected,  and  money  is  found  for  effecting  them,  notwith- 
standing the  war,  which,  as  you  have  learned,  has  begun  with  very 
great  acrimony  and  serious  fears  on  the  part  of  Britain  of  an  invasion, 
as  serious  preparations  are  making  here  for  it. 

*'  I  do  not  know  what  the  sentiments  of  a  party  among  you  may 
be  relative  to  the  American  Government,  but  it  is  certain  its  reputa- 
tion never  stood  so  high  as  at  present  in  Europe ;  and  my  success  in 
getting  our  debts  paid,  and  our  purchase  of  Louisiana,  have  been  con- 
sidered as  master  strokes  of  diplomatic  success — a  success  w^hich  was 
very  much  forvi^arded  by  the  firm  attitude  the  government  took  in 
the  business  of  New  Orleans,  and  a  conviction  of  our  resources  for 
war,  drawn  from  the  President's  speeches  and  reports  of  the  treasury. 
I  was  happy  enough  to  have,  as  you  have  learned,  attained  early  in 
the  month  of  March,  a  personal  assurance  from  the  First  Consul  him- 
self^ that  our  claims  should  be  promptly  and  fully  paid,  and  as  it 
was  impossible  to  go  back  from  this,  and  the  approach  of  a  war 
made  it  difficult  to  find  money,  this  proved  a  trump  card  in  bringing 
them  to  agree  to  cede  Louisiana,  which  the  First  Consul  announced  to 
his  council,  (after  some  very  pressing  notes  of  mine  on  the  subject, 
suggesting  the  8th  of  April,)  they  called  on  me  to  offer  my  terms  on 
the  10th.  On  the  evening  of  the  12th,  Mr.  Monroe  arrived,  when 
the  great  difficulty,  (the  reluctance  to  sell.)  having  been  previously 
got  over,  nothing  remained  for  our  joint  operations  but  to  fix  the  price. 
This  I  flatter  myself  will  not  appear  unreasonable  to  my  countrymen, 
who  know  how  to  estimate  the  increasing  consequence  of  that  country. 

"Having  thus  effected  the  great  object  of  my  mission,  1  look 
anxiously  towards  my  native  home,  which  still  has  more  charms  for 
me  than  even  this  fascinating  city.  I  flatter  myself  with  the  hopes 
of  seeing  you  next  spring  or  summer,  and  pray  you  to  believe  that  I 
recollect  you  and  my  other  friends  with  you,  with  sufficient  pleasure 
to  be  anxious  to  be  with  yoii  again.  1  pray  you  to  offer  my  com- 
pliments to  the  Governor,  I?ieut.  Governor,  Messrs.  Van  Rensselaer, 
Yates,  Taylor,  &c. 

"I  am,  dear  sir,  with  much  esteem,  your  most  obed't,  humble  serv't, 
"Elkanah  Watson,  Esq."  "Robert  R.  Livingston. 

"At  his  return  from  France,  I  was  in  the  full  tide  of  my  ag- 
ricultural operations  in  Pittsfield.  He  had  previous  to  that 
time  introduced  some  very  superior  Merino  sheep,  of  the  Ram- 
boulet  flock,  from  France.  We  were  thus  drawn  together  by 
our  congeniality  of  sentiments  and  pursuits  in  agriculture  and 
the  arts,  and  often  reciprocated  visits.  I  spent  some  days  with 
him  in  1808,  at  his  princely  seat  upon  the  Hudson,  where  he 
was  enjoying  a  dignified  and  refined  retirement.  From  hi  sflock 
I  selected  the  animals  w^  v^Jo  I  brought  into  Berkshire    county 


343 


**In  1810  I  attended  his  famous  sheep-shearing,  which 
attracted  much  attention,  and  acquired  subsequently  gieat 
newspaper  notoriety.  Men  of  great  eminence,  from  various 
sections  of  the  country,  were  present,  and  among  them  Col. 
Humphreys,  Dr.  Mitchell,  and  Mr.  MuUer,  a  German  gentle- 
man. The  large  company  was  entertained  in  the  most  ele- 
gant and  sumptuous  hospitality.  At  a  public  sale  on  this 
occasion,  sheep  were  bought  with  great  avidity,  at  prices  vary- 
ing from  fifty  to  one  thousand  dollars.  Although  these  rates 
appear  so  exorbitant,  there  was  an  animated  competition,  and 
some  earnest  disputes  for  securing  the  purchase  of  select  ani- 
mals. The  astonishing  inflation  in  the  ideal  value  of  sheep, 
which  this  mania  created  for  a  few  years,  and  the  depression 
which  ensued  after  the  bubble  had  burst,  will  be  exemplified  by 
a  single  fact.  1  purchased  a  beautiful  buck  of  the  Chancellor, 
at  $175,  for  which  1  repeatedly  refused  one  thousand  dollars,  and 
afterwards  sold  him  for  twelve  dollars.  Dr.  Mitchell  produced  a 
brilliant  description  of  the  festival,  and  always  classical  and 
erudite,  gave  as  a  toast,  '  The  modern  Argonautic  expedition, 
whereby  our  Jason  has  enriched  his  country  with  the  invalua- 
ble treasure  of  the  golden  fleece.' 

"  Chancellor  Livingston  and  Col.  Humphreys  disputed  the 
merit  of  having  first  introduced  the  Merino  sheep  into  the 
United  States.  The  former  claimed  to  have  brought  them 
from  France,  and  the  latter  that  he  had  sent  them  from  Spain, 
whilst  Minister  at  that  Court,  by  the  way  of  Portugal.* 

♦David  Humphreys  was  a  brilliant  writer,  had  been  aid-de-camp  to  Washing- 
ton, and  was  a  zealous  promoter  of  agriculture  and  the  arts.  As  the  relative  merits 
of  the  flocks  of  Livingston  and  Humphreys  is  yet  among  wool-growers  a  subject 
of  discussion,  I  will  insert  a  letter  from  him  when  the  controversy  was  at  its 
height. 

''Humphreysville,  18th  Sept.,  1809. 

"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq.,  Pittsfield,  Mass  : 

"  Dear  Sir  : — It  is  with  extreme  regret  I  am  not  able  to  comply  with  your 
wishes,  in  furnishing  the  information  you  seek  in  relation  to  the  establishing  the 
manufactory  of  woolens  in  your  place.  To  speak  generally,  I  sincerely  hope  the 
time  has  arrived  when  we  can  calculate  on  better  prospects  in  the  establishment 
of  this  important  branch  in  our  country  than  heretofore,  which  must  be  naturally 


344  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   KEVOLUTION  ; 

''  The  Chancellor  and  Judge  Peters  of  Philadelphia  also 
contested  the  merit  of  first  promulgating  in  this  country  a 
knowledge  of  the  value  of  gypsum  as  a  fertilizing  ingredient 
in  agriculture. 

"  Chancellor  Livingston,  it  is  well  known,  claimed  in  conjunc- 
tion with  Fulton,  the  great  fame  of  applying  steam  as  a  pro- 
inferred  when  I  have  invested  a  great  share  of  my  means  in  such  an  establishment 
in  this  village.  There  are  many  and  great  difficulties  to  be  encountered — the 
price  of  labor,  want  of  skill,  and  cheapness  of  land,  which  will  materially  affect 
our  cotton  as  well  as  woolen  establishments.  Your  proposed  capital  is  respectable, 
and  I  heartily  wish  you  success.  There  is  no  doubt  but  fine  wool  may  shortly 
be  supplied  by  our  own  flocks.  I  understand  some  invidious  observations  have 
lately  been  published  in  Pittsfield,  in  comparing  the  breed  of  sheep  brought  by 
Chancellor  Livingston  from  France,  with  the  Merinos  brought  by  me  from  Spain. 
All  I  shall  say  is,  the  excellencies  or  defects  of  the  breeds  or  their  wool  must 
be  decided  by  experience.  It  is  also  insinuated  without  truth  that  mine  are  not 
as  select  and  genuine  as  his  because  they  came  from  flocks  in  Spain.  It  is 
unfortunate  that  there  should  be  attempts  to  produce  parties  in  manufactures 
as  well  as  in  politics. 

"  The  sample  of  your  cloth  is  a  handsome  specimen  and  does  great  credit  to 
your  efforts,  and  offers  a  sure  guarantee  as  to  the  future. 
"  I  am  with  great  respect, 

"  D.  Humphreys." 

The  following  extract  from  a  letter  of  Chancellor  Livingston,  of  date  12th  June, 
180&,  exhibits  his  own  views  of  his  agency  in  the  introduction  of  these  sheep, 
and  an  estimation  of  the  character  and  value  of  his  flock  : 

"  On  the  subject  of  Spanish  sheep  I  have  little  to  offer  but  what  you  have 
already  seen.  I  am  indeed  employing  my  leisure  moments  on  the  natural  his- 
tory of  sheep,  which  will  take  a  general  view  of  the  different  breeds  of  them,  &c., 
but  I  know  not  whether  I  shall  think  it  of  sufficient  moment  to  commit  it  to  the 
press,  or  whether  my  other  avocations  (for  though  out  of  public  life  I  am  not  an 
idle  man,)  will  permit  me  to  finish  it.  I  have  lately  received  a  very  fine  ram 
from  France,  and  send  you  enclosed  a  sample  of  his  wool  for  the  inspection  of 
your  Society.  I  think  I  can  boast  of  the  finest  Merino  flock  than  any  other 
country  can  show,  having  had  an  opportunity  of  selecting  them  myself  from  the 
finest  flocks  in  Europe.  The  Merinos  are  generally  small  and  ill  made.  Mine 
have,  by  great  attention  in  the  selection  of  the  breeders,  by  those  that  had  the 
care  of  the  national  flock  in  France,  and  by  my  selection  out  of  that  flock  my- 
self, improved  both  in  their  form  and  size  without  any  change  in  the  quality 
of  the  wool.  I  also  send  you  a  sample  of  the  Arlington  wool,  of  which  you 
hare  seen  much  in  the  papers.  It  was  sent  me  by  Mr.  Custis,  the  proprietor  of 
Arlington  and  Smith's  Island.  Be  pleased  to  give  me  your  opinion  of  this  wool, 
and  the  uses  to  which  it  may  be  applicable." 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  S45 

pelling  power  in  navigation.  These  assumptions  have  been 
widely  and  severely  controverted.  I  regard  however  the  fact 
as  incontestible,  that  the  means  and  science  of  the  Chancellor, 
combined  with  the  genius  of  Fulton,  matured  and  perfected  the 
system,  and  reduced  it  to  practical  utility.  I  recollect  when 
they  applied  for  a  charter  to  their  association  for  steamboat 
navigation,  the  idea  prevailed  that  they  proposed  to  apply  the 
power  to  a  common  boat,  in  the  ordinary  acceptation  of  the 
term,  and  that  the  project  was  regarded  with  ridicule  and 
laughter.  The  Legislature  would  have  granted  them  without 
hesitation  the  exclusive  right  they  asked  for  one  hundred 
years. 

"  The  Chancellor  was  a  very  useful  and  benevolent  man,  a 
scholar  of  profound  erudition,  an  ardent  patriot,  and  a  prompt 
and  decided  promoter  of  all  the  essential  interests  of  the 
country.  His  name  should  be  cherished  as  that  of  one  of  her 
best  benefactors,  and  may  his  memory  long  live  in  the  grati- 
tude of  his  country. 

"Mr.  Muller,  the  German  gentleman  already  referred  to, 
was  a  person  of  rare  acquirements,  of  great  wealth,  and  had 
then  established  extensive  manufactories  at  Pittsburgh.  He 
possessed  singular  musical  talents,  and  was  perhaps  the  only  per- 
son who  had  the  power  of  extracting  from  the  common  Jews'- 
harp  the  most  exquisite  and  delicate  music.  He  used  small 
golden  instruments,  and  occasionally  performed  on  two  at  the 
same  time,  placing  one  in  each  corner  of  the  mouth,  and  would 
delight  by  his  brilliant  performances  the  most  refined  circles." 

A  correspondence  occurred  between  Mr.  Adams  and  Mr. 
Watson  in  the  year  1797,  which  refers  to  an  eventful  epoch 
in  the  life  of  the  former,  and  contained,  probably,  the  earliest 
admonition  he  received,  that  a  disaffected,  or  rather  adverse, 
sentiment  existed  in  the  highest  ranks  of  liis  own  party,  which 
soon  after  became  widely  diffused. 

To  John  Adams,  President  of  the  United  States. 

"  Albany,  5th  March,  1797. 
"  Sir — It  is  now  nearly  seventeen  years  since  I  was  first  honored 
with  your  paternal  letter,  when  a  student  at  the  College  of  Ancinis, 


346  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


in  France.  Since  which  time  I  have  ventured  to  address  you  on  va- 
rious subjects,  and  I  have  never  ceased  to  admire  the  independence 
of  your  mind,  and  your  stern  republican  virtues. 

"  Your  recent  elevation  to  the  first  place  in  the  power  of  a  grateful 
country  to  bestow,  elevates  you  to  a  rank,  in  my  mind,  vastly  more 
dignified  than  that  of  hereditary  Kings  and  Emperors  in  Europe. 

"  To  you,  sir,  I  shall  not  dare  to  offer  adulation ;  but  I  cannot  re- 
press the  expression  of  an  impulse,  stimulated  by  gratitude  and  af- 
fection, which  flows  warm  and  undisguised  from  my  heart  to  my 
pen. 

"  I  am  the  more  gratified,  inasmuch  as  I  know  that  some  leading 
characters  in  this  State  are  disappointed  and  chagrined  at  your  elec- 
tion, although  they  have  the  hypocrisy  to  palm  themselves  off  as 
your  friends.  The  secret  cause  of  this  feeling,  which  rankles  in  their 
heart,  is  the  known  independence  of  your  mind,  and  the  apprehen- 
sion that  they  cannot  mould  you  to  their  party  purposes. 

"  May  you  long  live  to  honor,  and  shed  additional  lustre  upon 
America,  is  the  ardent  prayer  of  your  respectful  friend, 

"  Elkanah  Watson. 


ANSWER. 

"Philadelphia,  llfth  March,  1797. 

«  Sir — I  received  with  pleasure  your  polite  note  of  the  5th  inst., 
and  thank  you  for  your  kind  compliments. 

"  I  am  very  much  disposed  to  think  that  you  have  been  misinform- 
ed respecting  some  leading  characters  in  the  State  of  New-York.  If 
they  have  been  '  disappointed,'  it  was  in  the  election  of  the  Vice- 
President,  not  mine,  and  that  by  no  means  on  the  ground  '  of  the 
known  independence  of  my  mind.' 

"  Inclosed  is  a  poem,  full  of  flattery  to  me,  but  is  exquisite  poetry. 
I  have  heard  it  was  written  by  a  Mr.  Bacon,  of  Albany,  or  its  vicin- 
ity, formerly  of  Brooklyne,  Mass.  I  send  you  the  poem,  and  desire 
you  to  let  me  know  if  there  is  such  a  person  in  your  neighborhood, 
and  what  is  his  character.  1  am,  &c. 

"  John  Adams." 

"Elkanah  Watson,  Esq,  Albany." 

"  P.  S.  I  think  it  more  likely  you  wrote  it.     Tell  me." 


To  John  Adams,  President  of  the  United  States. 

"  Albany,  1st  April,  1797. 
«  Sir — I  am  honored  by  your  favor  of  the  17th  ult.     I  have  had 
cause  to  regret  the  hint  I  gave  in  my  last  letter  to  you. 

"  It  is  now  incumbent  on  me  to  remove  your  doubts,  to  develope 
the  facts  to  which  I  alluded,  and  which  I  request  may  be  considered 
confidential. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  347 


*'  The  evening  of  the  date  of  my  letter  to  you  of  the  5th  ult.,  1 
spent  with  Chancellor  Livingston.  He  stated  to  me  that  Hamilton, 
Schuyler,  &c.,  were  the  disappointed  persons  to  whom  I  alluded,  on 
the  result  of  your  election  to  the  chief  magistracy  of  the  nation. 
The  ensuing  day  that  gentleman  dined  at  my  house,  with  a  large 
company.  Gen.  Schuyler  and  Judge  Hobart  of  the  Supreme  Court, 
were  present. 

"The  Judge  and  Chancellor  were  at  opposite  points  in  politics, 
became  extremely  warm,  and  indecorously  personal,  at  my  table  on 
the  same  subject.  The  Judge  admitted  the  fact,  but  qualified  it  in 
this  manner, — that  Hamilton  had  said,  in  his  presence,  that  Mr. 
Pinckney  would,  under  all  circumstances,  have  been  the  most  proper 
character  for  President,  because  he  was  a  new  man,  and  would  not 
draw  in  his  train  the  spirit  of  party.  A  curious  assertion,  truly,  for 
the  most  decided  party  leader  in  America  ! 

"  I  have  ascertained  that  the  poem  you  enclosed  to  me,  was  writ- 
ten by  a  Mr.  Honeywood,  a  lawyer  residing  at  Salem,  in  this  State — 
a  poet  and  painter  from  his  mother's  womb — as  singular  in  his  per- 
son as  Pope,  although  not  so  much  deformed,  and,  altogether,  an 
amiable  and  worthy  man.  You  flatter  my  vanity,  sir,  by  supposing 
me  the  author  of  that  elegant  poem.  To  be  frank  on  that  head,  I 
could  never  make  two  lines  jingle  in  rhyme. 

*'  Your  letter  to  me,  with  so  large  an  enclosure,  and  coming  so 
directly  on  the  heels  of  your  election,  has  given  rise  to  some  laugh- 
able incidents,  and  as  you  always  allow  me  to  write  and  speak  to 
you  freely,  I  will  tell  you  the  story  in  a  few  words. 

"  The  publication  of  my  Tour  in  PloUand  in  1784,  had  familiar- 
ized people  in  this  quarter  with  your  kindness  to  me,  in  various  parts 
of  Europe,  especially  at  the  Hague  ;  that  queen  of  cities  as  to  beauty 
and  elegance. 

"  This  fact,  in  connection  with  the  appearance  of  a  formidable 
packet  at  the  post-office,  franked  by  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  coming  at  the  commencement  of  his  administration,  stirred 
up  a  report  that  I  had  received  a  foreign  appointment,  although  I 
had  not  yet  broken  the  seal  of  the  packet.  Unfortunately  for  my 
'amour  propre,'  the  place  designated  was  the  court  of  Algiers. 

"  While  the  report  was  in  brisk  circulation,  I  happened  to  drop 
into  the  Senate  Chamber,  and  was  hailed  by  all  the  Senators  as  the 
Algerine  Ambassador. 

'•  It  was  in  vain  to  deny  ;  some  had  seen  the  letter,  others  your 
commission,  although  no  mortal  being,  but  my  good  wife,  had  seen 
the  inside  of  your  letter. 

"  What  an  important  charge  is  committed  to  your  hands  !     What 
a  solemn  crisis.     Peace  or  war  with  France,  and  half  of  Europe,  is 
now,  in  some  measure,  committed  to  your  hands. 
"  With  great  respect,  &c. 

"Elkanah  Watson." 


348 


''  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  I  intimated  to  Mr.  Adams,  in 
the  preceding  letters,  that  Schuyler,  Hamilton,  &c.r  were  his 
concealed  political  enemies,  on  the  ground  that  they  could 
neither  lead  or  coerce  him  into  their  high-toned  federal  meas- 
ures. The  annals  of  America  will  show  that  in  the  following 
year  Mr.  Adams  sent  new  Commissioners  to  France,  in  direct 
opposition  to  the  views  of  a  large  portion  of  the  Federal  party, 
and  that  the  party  was  broken  down  by  that  measure. 

"  In  consequence,  Hamilton  publicly  assailed  Mr.  Adams  in  a 
virulent  pamphlet,  in  the  most  abusive,  I  may  add  billingsgate, 
style,  on  the  charge  of  his  obstinacy,  and  ruining  federal 
views.*  His  virtues  and  firmness  saved  the  country,  and  the 
predictions  I  had  published  were  all  verified  and  established." 

*  This  extraordinary  pamphlet,  it  is  said,  was  attempted  to  be  suppressed,  by 
the  mutual  friends  of  Hamilton  and  Adams.  It  is  now  very  rare,  but  a  copy  is 
preserved,  I  am  informed  by  an  intelligent  antiquarian  friend,  in  a  bound  volume 
of  Pamphlets,  in  the  New-York  State  Library.— [Editor. 


OR,  MEMOIES  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOI?-.  349 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

Tour  to  Vermont  and  Lake  Champlain— Ballston— Sans  Souci— Manners 
.  —Saratoga— Congress  Hall— Culture  of  Sand  Plains— Glenn^s  Falls 
—Lake  George  — Sail  Down— Beautiful  Scenery— Fish— Outlet  of 
Lake  George— Ticonderoga— Crown  Point— Lake  Champlain— Ver- 
mont— Farms  and  Farmers — Vergennes — Arnold's  Fleet — Burlington 
—Sand  Bar— Grand  Isle— Cumberland  Head— Pittsburgh- Saranac 
—Indians— Country— Peru— Quakers— Splendid  View  from  Hallock's 
Hill— Historic  Ground— Au  Sable  River— Adgates'  Falls— Walled 
Banks  of  the  Au  Sable— Willsboro'  Mountains— Ferry— Valley  of 
Otter  Creek— Middlebury— Gen.  Nixon— Rutland— Union  College— 
Dr.  JSTott — Sermon  on  death  of  Hamilton— Incident— Politics— Letters 
from  Dr.  Nott— Party  Contest,  1807— Letters  on  that  subject  from 
Elisha  Jenkins,  Thomas  Tillotson,  and  E.  C.  Genet. 

No  further  event  of  public  interest,  or  calculated  to  exhibit 
the  condition  or  progress  of  the  countr}^  is  noticed  by  Mr. 
Watson  until  the  year  1805.  In  that  year,  accompanied  by 
his  old  travelling  associate,  Mr.  Bayard,  he  made  an  excursion 
in  Vermont  and  the  northern  section  of  this  State.  They 
left  Albany  on  the  nineteenth  of  August,  and  the  ensuing  day 
reached  the  "Sans  Souci,"  in  Ballston,  amid  scenes  of  elegance 
and  gaiety. 

"  We  seated  ourselves,"  the  journal  of  Mr.  Watson  proceeds, 
"  at  a  sumptuous  table,  with  about  one  hundred  guests  of  al 
classes,  but  generally  from  their  appearance  and  deportment  of 
the  first  respectability,  assembled  here  from  every  part  of  the 
Union  and  from  Europe,  in  the  pursuit  of  health  or  pleasure, 
of  matrimony  or  of  vice.  This  is  the  most  splendid  watering- 
place  in  America,  and  scarcely  surpassed  in  Europe  in  its 
dimensions,  and  the  taste  and  elegance  of  its  arrangement. 
The   building   contains    about   one  hundred   apartments,   all 


350 

respectably  furnished.  The  plan  upon  which  it  is  constructed, 
the  architecture,  the  style  of  tlie  out-buildings,  and  the  gravel- 
walks  girted  with  shrubbery — are  all  on  a  magnificent  scale. 
What  a  contrast  has  the  progress  of  fifteen  years,  since  I  was 
here  in  1790,  produced !  Where  the  '  Sans  Souci '  now  stands, 
was  then  almost  an  impenetrable  quagmire,  enveloped  in  trees, 
and  deformed  by  stumps  and  fallen  logs.  A  single  one  story 
house,  situated  upon  the  hill  which  overlooked  this  desolate 
valley,  was  the  only  public  accommodation,  and  although  at  |he 
height  of  the  season,  was  occupied  by  six  or  eight  families.  I 
described  in  my  journal  of  that  day  the  arrangements  for 
drinking  and  bathing  which  then  existed. 

"  In  the  evening  we  attended  a  ball  in  a  spacious  hall,  bril- 
liantly illuminated  with  chandeliers,  and  adorned  witli  various 
other  appliances  of  elegance  and  luxury.  Here  was  congre- 
gated a  fine  exhibition  of  the  refinement  of  the  "  Beau  monde." 
A  large  proportion  of  the  assembly  was  from  the  Southern 
States,  and  distinguished  by  their  elegant  and  polished  man- 
ners. In  the  place  of  the  old-fashioned  country-dances  and 
four-hand  reels  of  revolutionary  days,  I  was  pleased  to  notice 
the  advance  of  refined  customs,  and  the  introduction  of  the 
graces  of  Paris  in  the  elegant  cotillion  and  quadrille.  At  table 
I  was  delighted  in  observing  the  style  and  appearance  of  the 
company,  males  and  females  intermixed  in  the  true  French 
usage  of '  sans  souci.'  The  board  was  supplied  in  profusion 
not  only  with  a  rich  variety,  but  with  the  luxuries  of  more 
sunny  climes.  There  was  a  large  display  of  servants,  hand- 
somely attired,  while  the  music  of  a  choice  band  enlivened  the 
festivities. 

*'  In  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Congress  Hall,  in  Saratoga. 
This  is  a  large  hotel,  three  stories  high,  with  galleries  in  front, 
but  far  inferior  to  the  '  Sans  Souci,'  in  dimensions  and  appear- 
ance. The  Saratoga  Springs  since  my  first  visit,  have  obtain- 
ed great  celebrity  for  their  extraordinary  medicinal  properties. 
They  are  esteemed  more  efficacious  than  the  Ballston  waters. 
Saratoga  is  proving  a  formidable  rival  to  Ballston,  and  it  is 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  351 

probable  will  acquire  the  fashionable  ascendancy,  and  eventu- 
ally become  the  Bath  of  America. 

"  The  road  to  Glenn's  Falls  on  the  Hudson  traverses  much  of 
the  way  a  pine  barren.  These  sandy  soils  have  been  consid- 
ered of  little  value  for  agricultural  purposes  until  within  a  few 
years,  but  the  red  clover  tillage  and  the  application  of  gypsum 
are  found  to  render  them  very  valuable  for  cultivation.  When 
fully  subdued  and  judiciously  tilled  they  are  equal  in  net  pro- 
ductiveness to  most  lands,  from  the  fact  that  they  may  be  so 
cheaply  and  easily  cultivated. 

"  We  crossed  the  Hudson  directly  over  Glenn's  Falls.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  cascades  in  America,  but  is  little 
known.  The  variety  and  combination  of  scenery  are  rare  and 
beautiful.  We  gazed  from  the  bridge  for  a  full  hour  in  won- 
der and  admiration  upon  this  sublime  exhibition  of  nature. 
The  whole  volume  of  the  mighty  Hudson  rushes  tempestuously 
down  these  sluices  for  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  amid  a  laby- 
rinth of  obstructing  islands  and  rocks,  sometimes  plunging 
over  vertical  falls,  and  then  for  some  space  dashing  among 
passages  of  eternal  rocks,  foaming  and  surging  as  if  nothing 
could  resist  its  impetuous  torrent.  The  works  of  art  mingle 
with  the  majesty  and  beauty  of  nature.  Mill  races  w^hich  con- 
duct the  stream  on  both  sides,  water-wheels  in  their  wild  gyra- 
tions and  their  appendages  of  machinery,  communicate  variety 
to  the  enchanting  scene, 

"  Leaving  the  village  of  Sandy  Hill  on  our  right,  we 
pressed  forward  over  a  bad  road  to  the  south  end  of  the  far- 
famed  Lake  George — the  St.  Sacrament  of  the  French,  and 
still  more  appropriate  and  euphonious  Horicon  of  the  Indian. 
Upon  debouching  from  the  forest,  this  lovely  lake  with  its 
innumerable  islands  suddenly  bursi  upon  our  view,  revealed 
in  all  its  exceeding  romantic  beauty.  The  lake,  enveloped  on 
both  shores  by  a  mountain  screen  which  on  the  east  side 
ascends  into  bold  and  lofty  eminences,  reposed  in  a  long,  deep 
gorge,  its  placid  and  unrufiled  waters  studded  by  isles,  whose 
rocky  and  rugged  margin  shelved  down  to  the  water's  edge. 
This  lake  is  celebrated  for  the  depth  and  purity  of  its  water, 


352  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


and  for  the  quantity  and  excellence  of  its  fisli.  The  scenery 
of  Lake  George  is  surpassingly  grand,  picturesque  and  beau- 
tiful. I  am  assured  that  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  so  vaunted  by 
European  tourists,  bears  no  comparison  to  Horicon,  either  in 
its  quiet  loveliness  or  imposing  magnificence. 

'•  We  embarked  early  the  next  morning  in  a  bateau,  rowed 
by  four  men,  to  make  the  passage  through  the  lake  to  its 
northern  extremity.  We  coursed  amid  the  interesting  archi- 
pelago, and  at  noon  landed  and  dined  sumptuously  upon  deli- 
cious trout,  fresh  from  the  cool  and  pure  waters.  In  the  after- 
noon we  entered  the  narrows,  and  were  immediately  in  the 
midst  of  clusters  of  fairy  islands,  setting  like  gems  upon  the 
lake,  which  was  itself  girted  by  a  frame  work  of  mountains 
piled  upon  mountains.  At  sun-down  we  reached  Sabbath-day 
Point,  which  projects  boldly  into  the  lake  from  the  western 
shore,  and  here  pitched  our  tent  for  the  night  in  a  barn  with 
straw  for  our  beds. 

"  Nothing  could  be  more  sublime  than  the  effect  of  the  set- 
ting sun,  as  its  rays  fell  upon  the  piles  of  mountains  which 
surrounded  us.  The  day  had  been  excessively  hot.  The  out- 
lines and  pinnacles  of  the  cones  on  the  east  were  bathed  in  the 
fiery  tinges  of  the  burning  sun — a  deep  relief  was  produced  by 
the  long,  dark  shadows  of  the  western  range,  slowly  ascend- 
ing up  the  sides  of  the  former,  while  here  and  there  the  full 
blaze  of  the  sun-beam  was  poured  through  some  ravines  in  the 
opposite  range  on  the  slopes  facing  the  west." 

The  travellers,  as  they  approached  the  northern  termination, 
viewed  Rogers'  Slide,  Howe's  Cove,  and  the  numerous  other 
localities  associated  with  the  events  of  the  French  war.  The 
vast  water-power  upon  the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  Mr.  Watson 
describes  as  adequate  to  every  hydraulic  purpose,  and  indulges 
in  vivid  anticipation,  from  its  proximity  to  the  immense 
deposits  of  iron  ore,  and  its  immediate  connection  with  Lake 
Champlain,  of  its  future  importance  as  a  manufacturing  posi- 
tion. The  world  scarcely  presents  a  parallel  to  the  extraordi- 
nary combination  of  illimitable  water-power,  always  enduring 
and  equable — peculiar  commercial  advantages  of  situation,  and 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON. .  353 

a  facility  of  access  to  the  raw  material  which  has  been  lavished 
by  the  hand  of  nature  upon  this  site,  but  which  still  remains 
almost  unoccupied  and  paralysed  from  the  mistaken  and  con- 
tracted policy  of  foreign  proprietors. 

They  visited  the  mouldering  and  impressive  ruins  of  Ticon- 
deroga.  Mr.  Watson  speaks  of  this  venerable  fortress  as  "  with- 
out assimilation  to  anything  in  America,  and  exhibiting  the 
appearance  of  an  ancient  castle  of  Europe,  enveloped  in  the 
mist  of  ages,  and  surrounded  with  the  associations  of 
centuries." 

They  proceeded  down  Lake  Champlain  to  Crown  Point. 
The  ruins  of  this  fortress  presented  still  more  distinct  and 
visible  evidences  of  its  former  strength  and  glory.  The  penin- 
sula of  Crown  Point  he  describes  as  *'  formed  by  a  gentle  emi- 
nence which  gradually  inclines  to  the  margin  of  the  water. 
Crown  Point  presents  a  bold  front  to  the  Lake,  of  which  we 
had  an  extensive  view  in  the  north,  with  rugged  and  lofty 
mountains  bounding  it  on  the  west,  and  the  far-famed  chain 
of  the  Green  Mountains  stretching  along  the  horizon  upon  the* 
east,  at  a  distance  of  several  miles." 

Crossing  Champlain,  they  continued  their  journey  in  Ver- 
mont, along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake.  Their  route  "led 
through  a  range  of  excellent  farms  occupied  by  substantial 
houses,  and  every  appearance  announcing  the  abodes  of  high- 
minded,  intelligent,  republican  farmers.  A  few  elegant  seats 
exhibited  the  presence  of  affluence  and  taste."  Vergennes, 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  territory,  at  the  head  of  the 
navigation  of  Otter  Creek,  and  upon  a  boundless  water-power^ 
was  then  a  flourishing  town,  with  extensive  iron  works  in 
operation.  In  the  possession  of  eminent  advantages,  it  exhib- 
ited bright  prospects  for  the  future. 

They  travelled  over  a  fine  agricultural  territory  to  Burling- 
ton. Near  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek  their  attention  was 
drawn  to  the  relics  of  Arnold's  fleet,  "  lying  in  charred  and 
blackened  fragments  in  a  deep  bay,  where  he  had  ran  on  shore 
and  destroyed  his  vessels  to  prevent  them  from  becoming 
trophies  to  the  vastly  superior  fleet  of  Carlton.     While  their 

23 


54  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

colors  were  still  flying  he  burnt  them,  narrowly  escaping  with 
his  crew,  and  exposed  in  retreating  through  a  rude  wilderness 
to  great  suffering."  Mr.  Watson  was  informed,  in  the  tradi- 
tion of  the  region,  "  that  Arnold  was  the  last  man  who  left  his 
ship — dropping  from  the  bowsprit  into  the  lake  while  she  was 
enveloped  in  a  mass  of  flames." 

Burlington  he  describes  as  ''  a  neat  little  village,  principally 
built  on  a  public  square.  The  university,  a  three-story  edi- 
fice, is  erected  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  village. 
The  institution  is  in  a  depressed  condition,  embracing  only 
thirty  students,  with  a  President,  who  constitutes  the  whole 
faculty." 

Proceeding  northward  over  bad  roads  they  forded  a  belt  of 
Champlain,  by  a  narrow  bar  three  miles  in  length,  with  deep 
water  on  each  side,  to  the  island  of  South  Hero.  They  trav- 
ersed this  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  island,  and  crossing 
a  ferry  to  Cumberland-head,  again  entered  the  State  of  New- 
York.  A  pleasant  road  along  the  margin  of  the  deep  indenta- 
tions of  Cumberland  Bay,  conducted  them  to  the  village  of 
Plattsburgh,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  river.  This  was  a 
considerable  village,  situated  upon  an  excellent  fall,  already 
occupied  by  extensive  mills.  The  land  lying  north  was  report- 
ed of  a  superior  quality,  and  at  the  south  spread  a  pine  barren 
for  several  miles  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village.  Twenty  years 
before,  the  territory  north  of  Willsboro'  was  an  almost 
unbroken  wilderness ;  at  this  time  it  was  occupied  by  a  com- 
paratively dense  population.  They  saw  several  Indians,  with 
their  birch  canoes,  engaged  in  dressing  deer-skins  at  the  foot 
of  the  falls.  Plattsburgh  was  the  northern  termination  of 
their  journey. 

"  The  township  of  Peru,  the  town  next  south  of  Plattsburgh, 
presents,"  Mr.  Watson's  journal  remarks,  ''  a  level  surface  in 
an  area  of  about  ten  miles  from  the  lake,  with  a  rich  soil.  It 
is  well-settled,  chiefly  by  Quakers  from  Duchess  county,  who 
are  introducing  a  high  cultivation.  They  have  erected  a 
meeting-house  in  the  little  village  of  Union.  Soon  after 
leaving  Union  we  ascended  Hallock's  Hill,  and  here  our  pro- 


355 

gress  was  for  some  time  arrested  in  contemplating  one  of  the 
most  enchanting  landscapes  my  eye  has  ever  rested  upon.  At 
the  north  as  far  as  the  horizon,  a  broad  expanse  of  champaign 
spread  before  us.  This  level  surface  extends  from  the  Au 
Sable  river  quite  to  Quebec,  in  a  continuous  and  almost  unin- 
terrupted plain.  On  the  west  this  level  tract  is  bordered  by 
abrupt  and  deeply-wooded  heights,  which  towards  the  Canadian 
borders,  seem  to  subside  into  an  elevated  broken  surface. 
Although  a  new  country  just  emerging  from  a  wilderness,  as 
far  as  our  vision  penetrated,  it  was  dotted  here  and  there  by 
little  hamlets,  and  the  forests  checkered  by  many  large  open- 
ings. On  our  right,  Plattsburgh,  Cumberland-head,  North  and 
South  Hero,  were  distinctly  visible.  Lake  Champlain,  studded 
with  its  numerous  islands,  expanded  before  us  in  a  long  line  of 
beauty  and  magnificence,  while  beyond,  the  eye  traced  half 
the  length  of  Vermont,  girted  on  the  eastern  horizon  by  the 
bold  and  lofty  outline  of  the  Green  Mountains,  with  the  spires 
of  Burlington  glittering  in  the  sun-beams  on  the  extreme 
right. 

"  This  scene  of  unequalled  loveliness  was  unfolded  before  us 
like  the  canvas  of  a  vast  and  gorgeous  painting.*  In  this 
extended  view  we  embraced  historic — almost  classic — ground 
of  deepest  interest.  Some  three  or  four  miles  south  of  Platts- 
burgh lies  Valcour  Island,  with  a  narrow  strait  separating  it 
from  the  western  shore  of  the  lake.  After  the  conquest  of 
Crown  Point  and  Ticonderoga  by  Amherst  in  1759,  the  British 
fleet  pursued  and  destroyed  the  French  flotilla  in  a  bay  wpon 
the  north-east  corner  of  this  island,  and  thus  extinguished  the 
last  vestige  of  the  dominion  of  France  upon  the  lake. 

"  Within  the  strait  I  have  mentioned,  occurred  the  terrific 
conflict  between  Arnold  and  Carlton,  on  the  11  th  of  October,  '76. 
The  succeeding  night  Arnold  exhibited  a  skill  and  ability  in 
eluding  his  antagonist,  equal  to  the  daring  courage  and  con- 

♦  The  votary  and  admirer  of  nature  still  visits  this  scene,  and  gazes  in  rapture 
and  admiration  upon  a  landscape  which — blending  in  one  view  mountain  and 
plain,  lake  and  forest,  village  and  island — combines  all  the  elements  of  beauty  and 
loveliness. — [Editob. 


336  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

sumate  conduct  with  which  he  had  grappled  with  him  in  the 
unequal  contest.  Nine  years  after  my  visit,  these  waters  were 
rendered  still  more  illustrious  as  the  theatre  of  McDonough's 
immortal  victory.  From  this  eminence  hundreds  of  anxious 
and  excited  spectators  viewed  the  battle. 

"  We  diverged  from  the  direct  road  to  visit  some  remarkable 
scenery  upon  the  Au  Sable  river.  Adgates'  Falls,  and  the 
passage  of  the  river  among  cloven  rocks,  is  a  wonderful  exhi- 
bition of  the  physical  convulsions  which  have  distorted  this 
whole  region ;  and  were  it  situated  in  Europe  its  fame  would 
for  ages  have  been  resounded,  and  it  would  have  received  the 
pilgrimages  of  all  who  love  to  contemplate  nature  in  her  wild- 
est moods  and  most  wonderful  works. 

"About  one  mile  below  the  falls,  w^e  crossed  the  High 
Bridge,  formed  by  timbers  which  span  a  chasm  of  forty-five 
feet  in  width,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  at  this  point,  in 
depth.  Travellers  who  have  descended  to  the  base  of  this 
abyss,  pronounce  it  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  and  impos. 
ing  natural  curiosities  in  America,  not  exceeded  in  the  interest 
and  solemnity  with  which  it  impresses  the  mind — although  of 
a  totally  different  character — by  the  cataract  of  Niagara.  Yet 
these  amazing  scenes  are  rarely  visited,  and  are  scarcely 
known  to  exist.* 


*  The  county  of  Essex,  in  northern  New-York,  is  pre-eminent  for  its  rare  com- 
bination of  beautiful  and  imposing  scenery.  Its  placid  sylvan  lakes  and  bound- 
ing rivulets  are  singularly  blended  with  majestic  and  towering  mountain  groups, 
with  lofty  and  appalling  precipices — with  dense  and  broad  forests — and  highly, 
cultivated  fields.  The  whole  physical  arrangement  of  this  territory  seems  to 
have  been  strangely  upheaved  and  distorted  by  some  vast  convulsion  of  nature. 
The  gorge  mentioned  by  my  father,  and  known  as  the  "  Walled  banks  of  the  Au 
Sable,"  is  among  the  most  striking  and  interesting  of  these  phenomena.  The 
river  Au  Sable  has  either  forced  a  passage,  by  the  gradual  attrition  of  its  current, 
(or  it  was  created  by  the  agency  referred  to,)  through  the  sandstone  formation  from 
near  the  village  of  Keeseville.  The  walls  of  this  gulf  are  at  Keeseville  about  fifty 
feet  in  height  on  each  side.  Leaving  this  defile,  the  river  ghdes  quietly  along  a 
low  valley  for  nearly  a  mile,  where  it  suddenly  leaps  a  vertical  precipice,  forming 
a  cascade  of  exceeding  beauty.  From  this  point  it  dashes  and  surges  along  a 
rocky  sluice,  to  Adgates'  Falls,  where  it  plunges  into  a  dark  abyss  of  sixty  feet 
descent.     Immediately  above  the  cataract,  a  bridge  (an  arch  of  which  rests  upon 


357 


"  The  Au  Sable  river  rises  in  the  interior,  amid  an  almost 
unknown  and  unexplored  momitain  tract,  and  pursues  its 
course  to  Lake  Champlain,  a  distance  of  about  fifty  miles, 
through  a  wild  and  broken  country,  forming  a  series  of  the  most 
admirable  '  water  privileges,'  which  must  prove  of  the  highest 
importance  in  this  region  of  illimitable  pine  forests."* 

The  travellers  crossed  the  Willsboro'  Mountain  by  a  road 
nearly  impracticable  to  man  or  beast.  On  the  8d  September 
they  returned  to  Vermont  across  a  ferry  three  miles  wide,  in 
an  open  boat,  from  Willsboro'  to  Charlotte. 

The  country  which  they  passed  over,  through  the  valley  of 
Otter  Creek,  to  Middlebury,  was  very  interesting,  and  under 
fine  cultivation.  Middlebury  was  a  large  village,  inhabited  by 
an  industrious  and  enterprizing  population,  who  were  prepar- 
ing to  embark  extensively  in  manufactures.  ''  In  approach- 
ing Middlebury,"  Mr.  Watson  remarks,  "  we  noticed  an  old 
man  carrying   a  long  staff,  and  driving  a  cow,   whose  erect 

a  rock  in  the  midst  of  the  stream,)  crosses  the  river.  This  bridge  is  perpetually 
enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  mist  and  spray.  During  the  winter  season  these  exhala- 
tions congealing  upon  the  rocks  and  trees,  present  a  frost-work  of  the  most  gor- 
geous and  fantastic  exhibitions.  Myriads  of  icy  columns  and  arches — of  diamonds 
and  pendants — glitter  in  the  sunbeams,  with  the  most  brilliant  beauty  and  efful- 
gence. When  the  sun's  rays  rest  upon  the  spray,  a  bright  rainbow  always  spans 
the  chasm.  The  whole  combination  exhibits  a  scene  inexpressibly  picturesque 
and  magnificent.  The  river  below^  the  fall  dashes  for  the  distance  of  more  than  a 
mile,  through  the  lofty  embankments  of  this  murky  ravine,  into  the  hidden 
recesses  of  which  the  eye  can  scarcely  penetrate.  The  stream  courses  now  along 
a  natural  canal,  formed  amid  perfect  layers  of  the  sandstone,  and  now  impetuously 
leaps  down  a  sheer  precipice — the  walls  of  each  side  ascending  in  a  perpendicular 
face,  in  some  parts  to  the  altitude  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  opposite 
banks,  formed  of  exact  and  stupendous  masonry,  are  rarely  separated  through  the 
whole  length  of  the  ravine,  more  than  thirty  or  forty  feet,  and  often  approach  to 
within  ten  feet  of  each  other.  The  dark  foliage  of  the  pines  and  cedars,  which 
start  from  the  crevices  of  the  rocks  and  impending  over,  mantles  the  whole  scene 
with  an  almost  impervious  canopy.  The  depths  of  the  gorge  may  be  reached  by 
lateral  fissures,  which  are  rent  in  the  formation.  By  what  potent  and  terrific 
agency  this  wonderful  work  has  been  created,  is  a  question  which  presents  a 
wide  field  for  interesting  but  doubtful  speculation. — [Editor. 

•  The  vast  deposits  of  iron  which  have  enriched  this  region  and  have  become 
of  national  consideration,  were  at  this  time  scarcely  suspected  to  exist. — [Ed. 


358  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION; 

attitude,  firm  step,  and  venerable  appearance,  attracted  our 
observation,  although  so  humbly  employed.  In  the  course  of 
the  evening,  the  same  person  came  into  a  house,  where  I 
had  called,  and  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  learn  that  he 
was  the  gallant  and  distinguished  Gen.  Nixon  of  the  Revolu- 
tion. He  is  eighty  years  old.  He  told  me  that  he  commenced 
his  military  career  at  the  age  of  seventeen — that  he  com- 
manded at  the  battle  of  Bunker's  Hill  a  regiment  of  his  neigb- 
bors'  boys,  (as  he  called  them,)  and  as  be  expressed  it,  lost 
two-thirds  of  his  best  blood  in  that  conflict.  He  was  a  most 
efficient  and  intelligent  General  Officer  during  the  Revolution? 
enjoyed  largely  the  confidence  of  Washington,  was  conspicuous 
in  many  trying  events,  and  especially  in  the  various  battles  in 
the  vicinity  of  Saratoga. 

"  Middlebury  lies  on  both  sides  of  Otter  Creek,  and  possesses 
admirable  hydraulic  power.  A  mill  upon  a  novel  plan  is  in 
operation,  intended  for  sawing  marble,  which  in  large  quanti- 
ties, both  white  and  black,  obtained  from  extensive  quarries  in 
the  vicinity,  is  here  manufactured.  A  college  struggling  in 
infancy,  has  just  been  established  here.  We  travelled  from 
Middlebury  to  Rutland,  parallel  to  Otter  Creek,  upon  a  fine  road, 
winding  through  an  interesting  valley,  amid  highly  improved 
and  excellent  farms.     The  ensuing  day  we  returned  to  Albany." 

Mr.  Watson  in  this  period  was  earnestly  engaged  in 
promoting  the  interest  of  Union  College.  He  zealously 
co-operated  with  its  friends  in  procuring  endowments  from 
the  Legislature,  and  devoted  much  time,  expense,  and 
personal  labor,  in  the  improvement  and  embellishment  of 
the  grounds  of  the  institution.  The  poplars  which  formed 
the  Academic  grove  that  surrounded  the  old  college  edifice, 
and  many  which  formerly  stood  in  the  streets  of  Schenectady, 
were  principally  purchased  and  transported  from  Albany  at 
his  private  expense,  and  part  of  them  planted  by  his  own  hand. 
He  was  influenced  in  making  these  efforts  not  only  by  the 
ardent  zeal  he  always  felt  for.  the  advancement  of  every  educa- 
tional object,  but  by  a  personal  sympathy  with  his  intimate 
and  cherished  friend,  the  president  of  the  college,  Doct.  Nott, 


359 


who  was  then  laboring  to  sustain  it,  and  by  his  energetic  and 
zealous  efforts  was  laying  the  broad  foundations  of  its  future 
prosperity  and  usefulness. 

Doct.  Nott  during  his  ministry  in  Albany  was  for  a  con- 
siderable time  an  inmate  in  the  family  of  Mr.  Watson,  There 
was  upon  the  house  the  latter  occupied  a  platform  or  observa- 
tory, to  which  the  Doctor  often  retired  to  write  in  seclusion 
and  quiet.  Among  the  discourses  delivered  by  him  in  Albany 
was  the  great  and  celebrated  sermon  on  the  death  of  Hamil- 
ton, which  at  once  placed  its  author  in  the  highest  position 
among  the  pulpit  orators  of  the  age,  and  after  the  lapse  of  half 
a  century,  remains  unsurpassed  in  its  deep  pathos  and  splen- 
did eloquence. 

Both  Hamilton  and  Burr  were  on  terms  of  social  intimacy 
with  Mr.  Watson,  and  frequently  met  together  as  guests  at  his 
table.  This  gave  to  the  fatal  meeting,  which  took  place  be- 
tween them,  a  deeper  interest  to  him. 

An  incident  sprang  out  of  this  duel  (which  it  is  known 
proved  fatal  to  Hamilton)  that  might,  by  a  slight  change  in  the 
circumstances,  have  proved  fatal  to  his  eulogist. 

On  a  particular  occasion,  when  conversing  upon  the  fall 
of  Hamilton,  Mr.  Watson  taking  from  his  trunk  an  old  trav- 
elling pistol,  undertook  to  explain  to  Doctor  Nott  the  manner 
in  which  these  meetings  of  honor  were  conducted ;  and  hav- 
ing indicated  the  distance  and  the  stations  occupied  by  the 
parties,  raised  his  pistol,  and  repeating  the  usual  count,  and 
giving  the  usual  word — fire!  He  suited  the  action  to  the  word^ 
and  snapped  the  pistol.  To  his  utter  astonishment  it  went 
off*,  indenting  the  opposite  wall  of  the  room,  with  its  contained 
bullet,  at  the  very  place  where  Doctor  Nott  had  been  stand- 
ing, and  from  which  he  had  just  stepped  aside. 

For  the  first  and  nearly  the  last  time,  Mr.  Watson  was 
warmly  and  prominently  enlisted  in  a  contest  of  mere  party 
politics,  in  1807,  as  an  active  leader  (as  I  infer  from  the  char- 
acter of  the  newspaper  assaults  upon  him)  of  what  was  then 
known  as  the  "  Quid  party."  This  fact  will  explain  the  allu-- 
sion  in  the  following   playful  and  familiar  letter  of  Doctor 


360  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION ; 

Nott,  written  by  him  to  Mr.  Watson  the  same  year,  soon  after 
the  removal  of  the  latter  to  Pittsfield,  Mass. : 

"  And  is  it  so  ? — Is  the  '  Northern  Sentinel,'  who  has  remained 
faithful  on  his  watch  through  many  a  stormy  night,  when  the  winds 
beat  and  the  rain  fell — who  has  scrutinized  the  insidious  windings 
and  resisted  the  open  approaches  of  the  enemy,  at  length  to  desert 
his  post,  and  leave  his  old  friend  literally  in  the  ditch  ? — Who  will 
order  the  secret  movement  and  indite  the  public  bulletins,  prepara- 
tory to  the  next  grand  engagement  after  a  three  years  armistice'? 
The  Republic — the  Republic  !— this  sudden  advance  into  retirement 
I  consider  a  kind  of  political  treachery,  a  dereliction  of  the  princi- 
ples of  '76. 

"But  politics  aside,  have  you  in  good  earnest,  after  spending  twelve 
or  fourteen  years  in  paving,  improving,  ornamenting  and  refining, 
brought  your  mind  to  leave  the  most  delectable,  the  most  fascinat- 
ing, the  most  captivating  of  all  terrestrial  cities,  and  for  what  ? — a 
country-house  and  a  fish-pond  ! 

"Have  you  become  so  depraved,  as  to  prefer  the  simple  aromatic 
breeze  that  wafts  nothing  but  odors  of  roses  and  wild  flowers,  to  the 
life  giving  gases  which  are  generated  and  combined  in  the  sewers  of 
a  city  ; — the  carols  of  birds  and  the  prattle  of  children,  to  the  clatter 

of  wagons  and  the  dunder  and  blakesum  of ; — the  cool  breezes 

and  the  shady  grove,  to  the  narrow  lanes,  the  suflibcating  air,  and 
burning  sun  and  muddy  streets  of  a  quondam  duck  pond ; — the  ease 
and  leisure  of  the  country,  to  the  buckram,  the  prim  formality  and 
unmeaning  courtesy  of  a  city  life  1  Oh,  Elkanah,  Elkanah  !  thou  art 
beside  thyself!  I  shall  tell  thy  wife  to  put  on  thee  a  straight  jacket, 
confine  thee  to  a  dark  chamber,  and  feed  thee  on  depletion.  And 
about  the  time  when  thou  art  recovered  to  thy  sober  senses  I  shall 
come  to  see  thee,  and  then,  if  thou  wilt  give  me  thy  country-seat 
and  fish-pond,  I,  a  philosopher,  a  hermit,  will  stay  and  live  there, 
and  permit  thee  again  to  return  to  thy  former  habitation,  to  pump 
water  out  of  thy  celler  in  the  spring, — to  sufl*ocate  in  the  streets  in 
the  summer,  and  make  dinners  for  the  Legislature  in  the  winter, 
together  with  all  the  joys  of  bickering,  wrangling,  defaming,  sneering, 
lying,  and  even  fighting  with  clubs  and  pistols — Yes  to  enjoy  all 
these  pleasures  and  many  thereunto  belonging. 

"As  to  the $10,000  more  or  less,  J  am  already  depleted. 

I  will  give  thee  the  amount  in  advice.  So  then,  I  advise  thee  to 
give  up  the  thought  of  leaving  thy  new  plantation  and  remain  where 
thou  art ;  or  if  thou  wilt  quit  the  field  to  do  so,  determining  as  the 
Republic  has  abandoned  thee  that  thou  wilt  abandon  it.  Leave  Mr. 
J.  and  Mr.  C.  to  manage  their  affairs  in  their  own  way,  and  do  noth- 
ing more  than  sing  in  thy  retirement,  Vive  la  Republique.  Let  thy 
life  be  devoted  to  literature,  to  agriculture  and  religion — revise  thy 
old  journals  and  publish  them  or  make  new  ones — but  avoid  politics. 


OB,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELK  AN  AH  WATSON.  361 

"My  best  respects  to  madam ;  tell  her  I  hope  she  will  make  a  good 
country  wife  and  lay  aside  the  city  airs.  And  as  to  Miss  Emilie, 
let  her  sing  in  response  to  the  robins,  before  sun  rise,  and  ramble 
and  grow  ruddy.  George  must  feed  the  ducks,  and  Mary  weed  the 
flowers,  and — and  what  is  his  name  1 — Charles  catch  the  butterflies. 


"Yours  as  ever, 


E.  NOTT.* 


Elkanah  Watson." 


The  following  extracts  of  letters,  from  conspicuous  actors 
in  the  political  conflict  of  1807,  reveal  a  vehemence  of  per- 
sonal feeling  and  bitterness  seldom  excited  by  mere  party  col- 
lisions. They  are  selected  from  the  correspondence  of  the 
friends  and  antagonists  of  Mr.  Watson,  in  that  contest. 

Extract  from  a  Letter  of  Col.  Elisha  Jenkins, /orwer  Comptroller  of 
the  State,  dated 

"Albany,  Aug.  I2ih,  1807. 
^' Your  letter  of  the  6th  was  this  moment  opened,  and  it  gave  me 
pleasure  on  inspecting  the  inscription,  to  feel  that  you  had  not  en- 
tirely forgotten  me.  I  have  too  many  pleasant  retrospects  connected 
with  our  acquaintance,  which  commenced  at  a  very  early  period  of 
my  life,  to  be  willing  to  sacrifice  them  all  on  account  of  a  mere  dif- 
ference in  politics.  I  will,  however,  in  reply  to  your  apostrophe  to 
the  folly  of  mankind,  make  only  one  remark.  There  is  a  principle 
in  human  nature  which  binds  us  closely  to  those  whose  views,  inter- 

*  In  introducing  the  above  letter  from  Doctor  Nott,  which  is  selected  from  a 
voluminous  correspondence  that  is  well  worth  preserving  as  beautiful  models 
of  epistolary  style,  I  feel  that  I  have  scarcely  violated  the  rule  I  have  prescribed 
to  myself,  not  to  publish  the  correspondence  of  living  persons,  for  his  venerable 
age,  his  high  position,  and  eminent  talents,  have  already  placed  his  name  in  the 
"Pantheon  of  history."  I  have  been  deeply  gratified  by  the  follovi^ing  valued 
tribute  to  my  father's  memory  and  benediction  upon  my  own  labors,  embraced 
in  the  closing  paragraph  of  a  note  dated  September  8th,  1854. 

"Hoping  you  may  succeed  in  placing  the  character  of  your  honored  father  in 
its  true  Ught  before  the  public, 

"  I  am  very  truly  yours, 

"  E.  Nott. 
"  W.  C.  Watson." 


362  MEN   AND  TIMES   OF   THE  REVOLUTION ; 

ests  and  pursuits,  are  congenial  to  our  own — when  the  tie  is  broken 
by  the  secession  of  either  party,  it  produces,  by  force  of  the  same 
principle,  a  correspondent  change  of  our  attachments,  so  long  as  the 
new  state  of  things  lasts,  and  in  proportion  as  we  personally  feel  its 
effects.  But  do  not  conclude  from  hence,  that  my  composition  is  of 
that  vindictive  cast,  that  renders  it  impossible  for  me  to  think  well 
of  a  man  who  differs  from  me  in  opinion.  I  will  candidly  own  to 
you,  that  I  feel  no  resentment  against  you  for  the  part  you  have  act- 
ed in  the  late  political  struggle  in  this  State,  and  if  I  have  betrayed 
any  coolness  in  my  intercourse  with  you,  during  or  since  the  contro- 
versy, remember,  my  friend,  that  I  have  smarted  under  an  accumu- 
lation of  wrongs,  which  1  shall  always  think  had  their  origin  in 
the  vindictive  rancor  of  a  man  who  felt  disposed  to  persecute,  be- 
cause he  had,  without  adequate  cause,  misrepresented  and  traduced 
me.  Under  this  conviction  do  you  think  it  compatible  with  the  feel- 
ings of  our  nature,  that  I  could  have  retained  the  usual  complacency 
towards  my  old  acquaintances  and  friends,  who  were  parties  to  this 
system  of  persecution  and  abuse  *?  Your  own  good  sense  and  know- 
ledge of  the  human  heart  will  readily  furnish  an  answer.  However, 
the  conflict  is  over,  and  with  the  occasion  I  am  disposed  to  bury  ray 
resentments,  for  I  am  well-assured  that  even  among  Quids,  I  can  find 
some  who  still  feel  a  spark  of  friendship  for  me,  and  towards  whom 
I  reciprocate  the  same  sentiment;  among  these  it  will  always  give 
me  pleasure  to  include  yourself." 


Extract  of  a  Letter  from  Thou  as  Tillotson,  former  Secretary  of  State, 

"Rhinebeck,  Ma7/  2Sth,  1807. 
"  Dear  Sir, 

"  1  set  off  to  meet  you  at  Chancellor  Livingston's,  according  to 
your  appointment ;  but  alas  !  what  are  verbal  engagements  in  these 
degenerate  times,  when  revolution  follows  revolution,  in  morals  and 
politics,  as  the  wave  follows  the  one  that  precedes  it.  The  issue  of 
the  late  elections  has  terminated  in  favor  of  the  Cheethamites,  the 
Gibbetsites,  Hittites,  (cudgellers,)  and  Parasites.  Now,  if  you  can 
find  among  the  nations  of  the  earth  so  many  tribes,  factions,  and 
banditti,  of  an  equal  standing  in  morals,  and  who  wield  the  sceptre 
of  an  independent  State,  I  will  admit  you  to  be  Dr.  Mitchell's  equal 
in  knowledge  of  antiquity.  In  making  this  broad  declaration,  recol- 
lect that  I  do  not  mean  to  extend  the  right  of  selection  to  the  Jewish 
tribes  terminating  in  ites,  for  I  admit  that  they,  in  som.e  instances, 
might  have  outstripped  in  profligacy  even  Cheatham  and  his  follow- 
ers.    So  much  for  politics,  such  as  they  are." 

The  succeeding  letter  was  written  to  Mr.  Watson  by  Ed- 


363 


mund  C.  Genet,  the  former  French  Minister,  but  at  the  period 
of  its  date  a  citizen  of  the  United  States : 

"  Prospect  Hill,  May  \st^  1807. 

"  Dear  Sir — The  constant  firing  which  has  been  kept  up  on  me 
during  the  election,  has  obliged  me  to  be  at  all  times  at  the  battery, 
on  the  defensive,  and  that  circumstance,  in  combination  with  other 
business,  has  not  allowed  me  to  answer  sooner  your  very  friendly 
letter.  Be  well  assured,  sir,  that  I  have  not  considered  you  the  au- 
thor of  the  miserable  libels  published  against  me  in  the  "  Crisis,"  and 
particularly  the  letters  of  the  Quaker  or  Shaker,  which  have  been  at- 
tributed to  you.  My  long  acquaintance  with  you,  which  dates  from 
the  year  1793,  in  New- York,  has  convinced  me  that  you  were  a  well- 
informed  and  sociable  gentleman,  and  accordingly  1  could  not  take 
you  for  the  scribbler  of  productions  which  denote  so  much  perversity 
and  ignorance. 

"  I  regret  exceedingly  that  the  contagious  air  of  your  neighbor- 
hood* has  made  you  lose,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  the  belief  which 
I  myself  entertained,  in  your  firm  attachment  to  the  cause  of  liberty 
and  republicanism ;  but  as  your  apparent  change  must  be  attributed 
entirely  to  that  local  circumstance,  I  have  done  my  best  to  remove 
the  furor  of  that  epidemic,  and  being  confident  of  success,  I  hope 
that  in  future  nothing  will  obliterate  our  former  intimacy.  Mrs. 
Genet  joins  in  respects  to  her  amiable  friend,  your  worthy  lady,  and 
in  compliments  to  yourself.     1  am,  with  those  sentiments, 

*'  Dear  sir,  your  ob't  serv't, 

"E.  C.  Genet." 

♦  Mr,  Watson  was  the  near  neighbor  of  Gov.  Lewis. — [Editor. 


364  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF   THE  REVOLUTION 


CHAPTEE    XXVIII. 

Removal  to  Pittsfield — Berkshire  County — State  of  Manufactures  and 
Agriculture — Introduction  of  Improved  Stock — First  Exhibition — Ef- 
forts to  Promote  Improvements — Letter  from  Elbridge  Gerry — Organ- 
ization of  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society — Plan,  Operations,  and  His- 
tory of  it — Its  Influences  and  Effects — Description  of  a  Fair  by  a  Vir- 
-ginian — The  War  of  1812 — Letters  from  Chancellor  Livingston  and 
Col,  Humphreys — Letters  froni  John  Adams  on  that  subject  and  Agri- 
culture. 

In  June,  1807,  in  accordance  with  a  long  cherished  desire, 
which  had  grown  and  strengthened  by  the  observation  and  ex- 
perience of  twenty  years,  Mr.  Watson  retired  from  the  city 
in  pursuit  of  rural  occupations  and  felitjity.  He  purchased  an 
elegant  mansion,  connected  with  an  extensive  farm,  near  the 
beautiful  village  of  Pittsfield,  in  Massachusetts.  Here,  at  the 
age  of  fifty,  he  commenced  his  agricultural  career.  His  only 
error,  in  the  adoption  of  this  pursuit,  he  remarks,  was,  that  he 
embraced  it  at  too  late  a  period  of  life — after  his  habits  and 
feelings  had  been  moulded  by  a  long  residence  in  cities. 

The  county  of  Berkshire,  pre-eminent  in  New-England  for 
the  rich  beauty  and  attraction  of  its  scenery, — was  his  resi- 
dence for  a  period  of  nine  years,  and  the  theatre  of  his  most 
effective  and  valuable  labors  in  the  promotion  of  agriculture 
and  manufactures. 

The  system  of  husbandry  which  prevailed  in  that  district 
was  antiquated  and  defective, — with  little  guidance  of  science, 
or  the  influence  of  modern  progress.  The  sheep  of  the  coun- 
try were  uniformly  of  the  coarse,  loose-wooled,  native  varie- 
ties. The  swine  were  of  breeds  equally  defective  and  unpro- 
fitable. The  dairies  were  formed  of  animals  of  inferior  quali- 
ties. These  characteristics  of  the  agricultural  aspect  of  Berk- 
shire were  not  peculiar  or  confined  to  that  county  ;  but  at 
that  period  distinguished  the  husbandry  of  New-England.  The 
exuberant  soil  of  the  interior  of  New- York,  and  the  still  more 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  365 

opulent  West,  then  first  opened  to  emigration — yielded  an 
abundant  and  spontaneous  harvest,  without  the  application  of 
science  and  improved  tillage.  The  sterile  earth  of  Massachu- 
setts was  abandoned  and  neglected  by  much  of  its  most  vigor- 
ous population,  for  the  fascinating  allurements  of  these  more 
favored  regions. 

At  that  period  manufacturing  industry  and  skill  were  re- 
stricted almost  exclusively  to  the  domestic  circle.  That  vast 
fountain  of  wealth  and  prosperity  to  New-England  had  not 
yet  been  revealed.  The  rock  was  still  to  be  stricken.  In  the 
autumn  of  1807  Mr.  Watson  procured  the  first  pair  of  Merino 
sheep  which  had  been  introduced  into  the  county  of  Berk- 
shire, if  not  in  the  State  of  Massachusetts.  "I  was  induced," 
he  says,  in  the  History  of  the  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society, 
published  in  1820,  "  to  notify  an  exhibition,  under  the  lofty 
Elm  Tree,  on  the  public  square,  in  Pittsfield,  of  these  two 
sheep.  Many  farmers,  and  even  females,  were  attracted  to 
this  first  novel  and  humble  exhibition.  From  this  lucky  inci- 
dent I  reasoned  thus  :  if  two  animals  are  capable  of  exciting 
so  much  attention,  what  would  be  the  effect  of  a  display  on  a 
larger  scale  of  different  animals  ?  The  farmers  present  re- 
sponded to  my  remarks  with  approbation.  We  thus  became 
acquainted,  and  from  that  moment  to  the  present  hour,  Agri- 
cultural Fairs  and  Cattle  Shows,  with  all  their  connections, 
have  predominated  in  my  mind,  greatly  to  the  prejudice  of  my 
private  affairs. 

''  The  winter  foUovving  I  addressed,  through  the  press,  the 
farmers  of  Berkshire,  with  a  view  to  the  spread  of  Merino 
sheep, — which  I  considered  invaluable,  especially  in  the  hilly 
districts  of  New-England.  The  wool,  which  came  from  the 
two  sheep  referred  to,  was,  with,  infinite  pains,  manufactured 
by  the  best  artists  then  in  the  county  into  a  piece  of  blue 
cloth.  It  far  excelled  any  fabric  which  had  yet  appeared.  A 
detail  of  its  manufacture  and  expense  per  yard,  was  published 
extensively  in  the  papers ;  and  samples  of  the  article  were  ex- 
hibited in  the  principal  cities.     This  may  be  regarded  as  the 


366  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  KEVOLUTION ; 

origin  of  the  woollen  factories  of  Berkshire ;  which  will  now 
vie  with  the  best  European  fabrics. 

"In  1808,1  obtained  from  Duchess  county,  New- York,  a 
pair  of  small-boned,  short-legged  pigs,  known  as  the  grass-fed 
breed.  The  old  stock  gradually  disappeared,  and  the  commu- 
nity largely  gained  by  the  exchange.  The  same  year  I  pur- 
chased, and  introduced,  a  young  bull  of  a  celebrated  English 
stock,  with  a  view  of  ameliorating  the  breed  of  cattle." 

Although  the  public  mind  was  slowly,  but  decisively,  matur- 
ing to  the  apprehension  of  the  valut;  and  importance  of  these 
objects,  Mr.  Watson  seems  to  have  stood  almost  alone  in  ad- 
vocating them,  and  exposed  to  the  shafts  of  ridicule  and  satire. 

On  the  1st  of  August,  1810,  an  Appeal,  on  the  subject  of  a 
"  Cattle  Show,"  was  written  by  Mr.  Watson,  and  addressed  to 
the  farmers  of  the  county.  This  Appeal  was  signed  by  twenty- 
six  persons,  and  appointed  an  exhibition  of  stock  on  the  ensu- 
ing 1st  of  October.  It  closed  in  the  following  language  : — "  It 
is  hoped  this  essay  will  not  be  confined  to  the  present  year, 
but  will  lead  to  permanent  cattle  shows ;  and  that  an  incor- 
porated Agricultural  Society  will  emanate  from  these  meet- 
ings, which  will  be  hereafter  possessed  of  funds  sufficient  to 
award  premiums."     This  effort  was  eminently  successful. 

The  following  note,  from  Elbridge  Gerry,  at  that  time  Gov- 
ernor of  Massachusetts,  was  in  reply  to  a  communication  of 
Mr.  Watson,  previous  to  the  organization  of  the  Berkshire 
Society,  invoking  the  aid  of  the  Executive  and  Legislature  of 
that  State,  for  the  promotion  of  its  agriculture  and  manufac- 
tures : — 

"  Cambridge,  4:th  Feb,,  1811. 
"  Dear  Sir, 

"  I  have  perused  with  great  pleasure  your  letters  of  the  13th  and 
17th  of  January.  I  shall  promote,  in  every  possible  v^ay,  the  pre- 
servation and  increase  of  Merino  sheep,  and  the  manufacture  of 
woollen  cloths. 

"The  New-York  laws  are  enclosed  to  the  Hon.  Mr.  Childs,  who 
also  appears  zealous  in  promoting  these  important  objects. 

"  I  thank  you  for  your  offer  to  supply  me  with  some  of  your  ex- 
cellent manufactures. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  367 

"  Your  observations  in  regard  to  emigration  from  this  State,  and 
to  the  best  mode  to  prevent  it,  and  to  profit  by  our  prolific  hive,  ap- 
pear to  me  very  correct,  and  they  do  not  escape  the  attention  of  the 
legislature.* 

"  Being  in  great  haste,  I  have  only  time  to  add  my  assurances  of 
esteem  and  regard,  and  that  I  am,  dear  sir,  yours  sincerely, 

'•  E.  Gerry. 

"Mr.  Watson." 

In  the  ensuing  winter  the  Society  received  ^  charter  from 
the  Legislature  of  Massachusetts,  and  the  preliminaries  were 
perfected  for  a  formal  and  extended  festival,  in  the  succeeding 
September.  The  event  was  highly  auspicious.  The  day  was 
beautiful,  and  at  an  early  hour  the  village  was  thronged  by 
thousands  of  excited  and  interested  spectators. 

Fine  domestic  animals  were  seen  approaching  the  place  of 
exhibition  from  every  direction.  The  procession  Mr.  Watson 
commemorates,  "  as  splendid,  novel,  and  imposing,  beyond  any- 
thing of  the  kind  ever  exhibited  in  America.  It  cost  me  (he 
says)  an  infinity  of  trouble,  and  some  cash  ;  but  it  resulted  in 
exciting  a  general  attention  in  the  Northern  States,  and  placing 
our  Society  on  elevated  ground.  In  this  procession  were 
sixty-nine  oxen,  connected  by  chains,  drawing  a  plough  held 
by  the  oldest  man  in  the  county  ; — a  band  of  music  ; — the  So- 
ciety, bearing  appropriate  ensigns,  and  each  member  decorated 
with  a  badge  of  wheat  in  his  hat.f  A  platform,  upon  wheels, 
followed,  drawn  by  oxen,  bearing  a  broadcloth  loom  and  spin- 
ning jenny,  both  in  operation,  by  English  artists,  as  the  stage 
moved  along.  Mechanics  with  flags — and  another  platform 
filled  with  American  manufactures.  The  pens  were  hand- 
somely occupied  by  some  excellent  animals." 

*  Note. — This  was  developed  in  my  first  Address,  Sept.  following,  viz.,  the 
renovation  of  worn  out  farms,  and  the  introduction  of  an  improved  system  of 
agriculture. — Mem.  on  Letter. 

t  "  Considering  wheat  as  a  peculiar  e-mblem  of  Agriculture,  I  conceived  the  idea 
on  this  occasion  of  drawing  a  line,  not  only  between  members  and  spectators, 
but  also  between  the  farmer  and  officers  of  the  Society.  The  members  bore  two 
heads  of  wheat,  tied  with  a  pack  thread,  and  the  officers  three  heads,  secured  by 
a  green  ribbon." 


368  MEN   AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

Mr.  Watson,  as  President  of  the  Society,  delivered  the  Ad- 
dress to  an  audience  that  filled  the  spacious  church ;  and  an- 
nounced the  premiums,  (which  only  amounted  to  seventy  dol- 
lars,) for  the  most  meritorious  animals.  The  Society  had  no 
means  of  extending  the  premium  list  to  agriculture,  farms,  or 
domestic  manufactures. 

From  this  period  the  great  obstacle  to  the  successful  pro- 
gress of  the  Society  was  created  by  the  difficulty  of  obtaining 
funds.  The  adverse  public  sentiment  had  been  subdued.  .En- 
couraged by  gentlemen  from  Boston,  who  had  been  present  at 
the  late  exhibition  of  the  Society,  Mr.  Watson  proceeded  to 
that  place  at  his  own  expense,  and  spent  a  month  in  soliciting 
aid.  "  Although  our  efforts  were  highly  applauded,  and  I  was 
greatly  distinguished  in  the  legislature  by  personal  attention, 
all  my  exertions  were  unavailing.  I  found  myself  pursuing 
an  ignis  Jatuus.  Much  humbled  and  mortified  with  this  abor- 
tive begging  expedition,  1  returned  to  Pittsfield,  after  expend- 
ing about  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars." 

The  exhibition  of  1812  was  distinguished  by  a  great  increase 
of  premiums,  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  $208.  Mr.  Wat- 
son exhibited  on  this  occasion  a  piece  of  superfine  broadcloth, 
made  from  the  down  of  his  wool.  This  cloth  formed  an  era 
in  the  progress  of  American  manufactures,  and  excited  a 
strong  interest  throughout  the  country.  The  President  of  the 
United  States,  and  several  other  eminent  public  men,  were 
clothed  in  it. 

"  Satisfied,"  Mr.  Watson  observes  in  his  History,  "  of  the 
propriety  of  solemnizing  these  occasions,  by  mingling  religious 
exercises  with  appropriate  addresses,  and  the  delivery  of  pre- 
miums, and  as  peculiarly  proper,  in  devout  acknowledgment 
for  the  blessings  of  the  year,  and  being  also  impressed  with 
the  belief  that  the  measure  would  tend  to  give  popularity  to 
the  Society  among  the  graver  classes  of  the  community,  we 
suggested  our  wishes  to  several  of  the  clergy  who  were  pres- 
ent, soliciting  their  co-operation  in  our  views.  They  hesitated, 
probably  regarding  our  measures  the  bubble  of  the  moment, 
and  that  by  participating  in  it  they  would  make  themselves 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH   WATSON.  869 

ridiculous.  One,  however,  at  length  assented,  and  ascending 
the  pulpit,  offered  an  animated  pastoral  prayer.  Odes,  adapted 
to  the  occasion,  were  sung  by  a  full  choir. 

''  It  was  considered  of  the  first  importance  to  the  success  of 
the  Society,  to  enlist  the  sympathies  and  to  arouse  the  interest 
of  the  females  of  the  country  in  its  operations.  To  etfect  this 
object  a  separate  day  was  appointed,  and  several  valuable  pre- 
miums of  silver  plate  wyere  exclusively  devoted  to  them,  to  be 
awarded  on  domestic  industry.  The  day  arrived,  a  large  room 
was  prepared,  many  superior  articles  o/"  domestic  manufactures, 
especially  woollens  and  linens,  were  exhibited ;  but  no  female 
appeared  to  claim  the  premiums.  This  was  the  crisis,  and  I 
was  extremely  agitated  lest  che  experiment  should  fail.  Native 
timidity,  and  the  fear  of  ridicule,  restrained  them.  No  one 
dared  be  the  first  to  support  a  new  project.  To  break  down 
this  feeling  we  resorted  to  a  manoeuvre,  which  in  an  hour 
accomplished  our  wishes.  I  left  the  Hall,  and  with  no  small 
difficulty  prevailed  on  my  good  wife  to  accompany  me  to  the 
house  of  exhibition.  I  then  dispatched  messengers  to  the 
ladies  of  che  village,  announcing  that  she  waited  for  them  at 
the  Cloth  Show.  They  poured  out : — the  farmers'  wives  and 
daughters,  who  were  secretly  watching  the  movements  of  the 
waters,  also  issued  forth, — and  the  Hall  was  speedily  filled  with 
female  spectators  and  candidates  for  premiums.  This  was  one 
of  the  most  grateful  moments  of  my  life.  I  immediately  arose 
in  the  rear  of  the  table,  on  which  the  glittering  premiums  were 
displayed,  and  delivered  a  formal  address." 

In  reference  to  this  effort  at  promoting  domestic  manufac- 
tures, Mr.  Watson  remarks :  "  The  vast  effects  which  will 
grow  out  of  this  system,  when  these  societies  shall  become 
general,  are  beyond  the  reach  of  figures,  by  arresting  our  Colo- 
nial degradation  and  dependence  on  foreign  countries,  especi- 
ally for  articles  of  clothing.  Perhaps  the  nett  gain  to  the 
nation  may  equal  the  benefit  which  agriculture  will  derive 
from  these  institutions. 

"  Although  the  Legislature  was  deaf  to  our  earnest  and  re- 
peated applications  for  aid,  and  insensible  to  the  progress  the 

24 


370  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEYOLUTION ; 

Society  was  making,  in  overcoming  the  wretched  system  of 
husbandry  which  had  pervaded  the  whole  of  New-England, 
and  in  the  improvement  of  stock ;  yet,  by  individual  efforts, 
the  funds  of  the  Society  was  so  augmented,  that  it  was  enabled 
to  offer  the  various  departments  an  aggregate  of  premiums, 
amounting  to  four  hundred  dollars.  An  interesting  and  novel 
feature  in  the  practical  operation  of  the  Society,  was  adopted 
on  the  suggestion  of  a  very  intelligent  member  of  the  Executive 
Committee,  which  is  worthy  of  notice  and  imitation.  A  com- 
mittee of  prominent  farmers  was  selected  ;  and  the  duty  de- 
volved upon  them  of  traversing  the  county,  in  the  month  of 
July,  when  the  fields  were  in  full  luxuriance,  and  to  examine 
and  award  premiums  on  the  standing  crops  which  had  been 
entered  for  competition." 

In  an  address  before  the  Otsego  Society,  in  1817,  he  thus 
notices  this  striking  inquisition  :  "  To  see  a  group  of  the  most 
respectable  farmers  (as  if  under  the  solemnity  of  an  oath,)  per- 
sonally inspecting  in  their  midst,  fields  of  grain,  grass,  vegeta- 
bles, &c.,  and  also  the  state  of  the  orchards,  buildings,  fences 
and  farming  utensils ;  and  to  witness  the  anxious  candidate 
for  premiums,  attentively  hearing  every  lisp  favorable  to  his 
husbandry  or  probable  success,  is  more  exhilarating  to  the  pride 
of  patriotism,  than  to  view  the  gorgeous  pageantry  of  palaces, 
and  their  pampered  tenants  decorated  in  gold."  Efforts  were 
made  to  derive  aid  from  the  ample  funds  of  the  Massachusetts 
Agricultural  Society.  These  applications  were  not  successful, 
but  led  to  an  interesting  correspondence  between  Mr.  Adams 
and  Mr.  Watson,  which  will  be  inserted  in  succeeding  pages. 

In  1814,  the  operations  of  the  Society  had  become  widely 
diffused,  and  its  prosperity  warmly  cherished  in  the  interests, 
and  deeply  implanted  in  the  affections  of  the  community. 
Having  digested  and  matured  a  system  of  by-laws  for  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  Society,  Mr.  Watson,  at  the  annual  festival, 
withdrew  from  its  Presidency. 

More  than  forty  years  have  elapsed  since  the  organization 
of  this  Society  ;  it  still  exists  the  institution  of  the  county,  ex- 
erting a  powerful  and  benignant  influence  upon  its  agricultural 


OK,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOI^.  371 

progress  and  improvement ;  the  pattern  and  examplar  upon 
which  others  have  been  formed,  noit  only  in  New-England  and 
New- York,  but  in  the  remote  southern  and  western  States. 
Other  nominal  agricultural  associations  had  preceded  it,  but 
the  plan  of  the  Society  of  Berkshire  was  original  and  peculiar. 
In  the  language  of  Mr.  Watson,  "  others  had  too  much  de- 
pended on  types."  The  principle  of  the  modern  plan,  was  to 
address  the  interests  and  the  sentiments  of  the  people.  The 
public  exhibition  of  choice  animals,  while  it  made  them  famil- 
iar to  the  farming  community,  attracted  its  attention  to  their 
beauty  and  value,  and  to  the  importance  of  their  introduction. 
It  aroused  the  emulation  of  the  farmers,  and  by  the  brilliant  dis- 
play of  premiums  excited  their  self-interest.  Competition  in 
crops  awakened  scientific  investigations,  and  their  practicable 
application.  The  management  and  the  appliances,  by  which  the 
fortunate  competition  had  secured  success,  were  described  and 
widely  adopted.  Domestic  industry  was  fostered,  and  its  labors 
accelerated.  Farmers,  at  the  fairs  and  business  meetings  of  the 
Society,  were  brought  into  intercourse,  and  were  led  to  act  in 
concert,  and  to  appreciate  the  dignity  and  importance  of  their 
vocation.  The  experience  and  observation  of  nearly  half  a 
century  have  unquestionably  suggested  many  essential  modifi- 
cations and  improvements  ;  but  the  Agricultural  Societies  of 
the  present  day  continue  to  be  modelled  upon  the  plan  and 
the  system  which  was  originated  in  Berkshire. 

Two  years  after  the  resignation  of  Mr.  Watson,  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Society,  in  his  annual  address,  uttered  an  emphatic 
comment  upon  its  measures  and  influence.  He  says,  "  Only 
six  years  ago,  the  agricultural  concerns  of  the  county  were  sta- 
tionary. Few,  if  any,  valuable  improvements  were  attempted. 
Ind  fference  and  unconcern  seemed  to  have  pervaded  society. 
In  1810,  the  genius  of  the  county  shook  off  the  slumbers  of  its 
husbandmen,  and  the  spirit  of  improvement  commenced 
Under  the  auspices  of  your  Association,  a  career  of  usefulness 
was  resumed  and  diligently  promoted.  The  former  state  of 
things  has  given  way  to  a  new  condition  ;  unfolding  to  us  im- 
provements, in  variety  and  usefulness,  surpassing  the  most 


372  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

s-anguine  expectations.  Every  department  of  rural  employment 
demonstrates  an  intelligent  cultivation  and  effectual  good  man- 
agement. In  the  selection  and  rearing  of  domestic  animals, 
more  correct  information  prevails,  and  greater  emulation  is 
awakened.  The  vast  increase,  variety  and  excellence  in  our 
crops,  satisfy  our  warmest  desires,  and  leave  us  nothing  to 
envy  in  the  most  favored  regions  of  the  west." 

At  a  later  period,  when  the  Society  had  exerted  six  years 
more  of  effort  and  influence,  Thomas  Gold,  Esq.,  its  third  Pres- 
ident, and  a  conspicuous  citizen  of  Berkshire,  thus  adverts 
to  the  origin  and  operations  of  the  Society,  and  its  elevated 
position  :  "  We  all  rejoice  to  find  that  you  still  take  a  deep  in- 
terest in  all  that  relates  to  the  fame  and  prosperity  of  this 
highly  useful  institution.  It  was  formed  under  your  auspices, 
and  was  reared  to  its  present  enviable  condition,  by  unusua] 
efforts  and  great  expenditure.  Its  fame  and  influence  have 
extended  over  the  entire  surface  of  the  United  States  ;  its  ex- 
ample followed  ;  its  approbation  courted  by  its  extended  off- 
spring. It  has  been  recognized,  as  well  in  Europe  as  America, 
as  an  original,  novel  plan,  and  the  most  excellent  organization 
ever  conceived  to  promote  the  great  interests  under  its 
patronage." 

The  vivid  description  of  one  of  the  early  festivals  of  this 
Society,  contained  in  a  letter  of  a  highly  respectable  southern 
gentleman,  to  a  friend  in  Virginia,  possessed  peculiar  interest, 
as  reflecting  the  views  and  feelings  of  an  intelligent  and  dispas- 
sionate spectator,  as  they  were  formed  at  the  moment.  The 
letter  was  extensively  published  in  the  newspapers  of  that  pe- 
riod. *'  I  have  been  delighted  with  the  whole  proceedings 
through  two  successive  days.  Every  thing  was  conducted 
with  perfect  decorum  and  system.  The  exhibition  of  agricul- 
tural products,  of  prime  animals  and  household  manufactures, 
were  extremely  interesting  the  first  day  ;  and  from  the  spirit 
which  seemed  to  be  infused  into  every  individual,  male  and 
female,  much  good  doubtless  has  resulted  from  this  noble  insti- 
tution  ;   and  I  trust  much  remains  yet  in  store." 

"  It  is  impossible  to  express  to  you  the  impressive  scene  at 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  378 

the  church.  A  procession  of  respectable  farmers  formed  the 
second  day,  each  with  a  wheat  cockade  in  his  hat ;  the  clergy 
and  honorary  members  also  mounted  this  appropriate  badge  of 
the  Society.  In  the  procession  were  flags,  having  emblems  of 
agriculture  and  manufactures  ;  also  music  and  a  plough.  On 
entering  a  spacious  church,  well  filled,  the  first  object  that  at- 
tracted my  attention  was  a  handsome  display  of  highly  pol- 
ished silver  plate,  consisting  of  spoons,  bowls,  tumblers,  tea 
apparatus,  &c.,  placed  to  great  advantage  on  a  table,  in  front 
of  the  pulpit.  The  ceremon)^  commenced  with  an  animated 
pastoral  prayer.  At  its  close,  my  heart  thrilled  with  emotions 
difficult  to  express,  to  see  a  long  line  of  beautiful  females,  and 
as  many  men,  in  the  opposite  gallery,  rise  at  the  same  moment. 
My  first  impressions  were  much  increased  by  the  elegant  and 
dignified  manner  in  which  they  sang  an  appropriate  ode,  com- 
posed for  the  occasion,  exceeding  any  thing  of  the  kind  I  had 
ever  heard.  In  the  rear  of  the  leader  were  an  organ  and  a 
band  of  music. 

*'  The  most  interesting  of  all  the  proceedings,  was  the  Re- 
ports of  the  Committees,  especially  the  detailed  Report  of  the 
Visiting  Committee  of  Agriculture.  The  President  announced 
from  the  pulpit,  immediately  after  his  address :  "  As  premiums 
are  proclaimed  for  females,  they  will  please  arise  in  their  places, 
and  the  head  Marshal  will  deliver  to  each  her  premium  and 
certificate  of  honorable  testimony.  The  instant  the  name  of 
the  successful  candidate  was  announced,  the  eyes  of  an  exhil- 
arated audience  were  flying  in  every  direction,  impelled  by  the 
strongest  curiosity,  to  see  the  fortunate  blushing  female,  with 
downcast  eye,  raising  both  her  hands,  as  the  Marshal  ap- 
proached with  one  to  receive  her  premium,  and  the  other  her 
certificate.  The  effect  cannot  be  described  ;  it  must  be  seen  to 
be  realized.  I  sincerely  hope  that  the  time  is  not  remote,  when 
these  patriotic  and  laudable  exhibitions,  so  well  calculated  to 
promote  improvement  in  agriculture  and  domestic  manufac- 
tures, will  be  familiar  to  every  part  of  the  Union.  They  must 
not  be  confined  to  Berkshire,  as  their  extension  cannot  fail  to 
prove  of  immense  national  utility." 


374  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

The  extracts  which  follow  from  a  letter  of  Chanceller  Liv- 
ingston, dated  29th  June,  1810,  and  another  of  Gen.  Humph- 
reys, October  6,  1812,  exhibit  some  intresting  facts  relative  to 
the  introduction  of  the  Merino  sheep,  and  on  the  general  sub- 
ject of  wool  growing. 

"I  think  with  you,  that  the  high  price  will  introduce  Merinos  as 
long  as  the  port  of  Lisbon  remains  open  and  the  British  arniies  are 
on  the  frimtier  of  Spain.  It  is  probable  too,  that  numbers  will  be 
inferior  sheep,  that  may  rather  tend  to  discredit  than  improve  our 
stock.  Some  good  ones,  however,  will  be  introduced,  and  so  far 
the  country  will  be  benefited.  I  believe  also,  that  sheep  will  now  be 
brought  fr'orn  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  perhaps  useful  races  be  ob- 
tained. The  papers  mention  the  arrival  of  a  Cashmerean  at  Boston. 
The  Cashmerean  wool  is  reported  to  be  very  fine,  and  it  may  pos- 
sibly make  a  valuable  cross  with  the  Merino. 

"  I  am  with  much  esteem,  dear  Sir,  yours, 

"  Robert  R.  Livingston. 
"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq." 


"  It  affords  me  vast  pleasure  to  learn  that  you  are  to  have  so 
elegant  a  display  of  fine  animals  and  superfine  cloths,  and  ray  regret 
in  not  having  the  opportunity  of  witnessing  and  appreciating  them 
is  the  more  sensible,  from  the  sudden  and  flattering  manner  in  which 
these  objects  have  been  improved  and  augmented  in  your  county, 
and  the  contiguous  parts  of  the  State.  The  pleasure  and  admiration 
are  the  further  increased  in  contemplating  and  reperusing  the  corres- 
pondence with  yourself  and  a  Mr.  Danforth,  with  which  1  was  honored 
some  years  ago.  I  judge  it  will  not  be  unamusing  or  unprofitable 
to  publish  some  parts  of  them  with  my  answers,  when  I  shall  bring 
together,  and  submit  to  the  public  eye,  some  views  of  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  fine  wooled  breed  of  sheep  into  this  country,  and  the 
subsequent  influence  of  this  measure  on  the  agriculture  and  manu- 
factures of  the  country.  I  have  within  a  few  days  past  received 
some  very  interesting  communications  from  Europe,  on  subjects 
connected  with  that  of  this  letter.  The  greatest  exertions  are  now 
making  in  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  to  improve  and 
extend  the  Merino  breed  of  sheep,  from  a  full  conviction  that  every 
country  must  hereafter  look  to  its  own  resources  for  a  supply  of  fine  wool. 
This  and  many  other  important  facts  are  demonstrated,  by  the  second 
report  of  the  Merino  Society  of  Great  Britain,  as  well  as  in  a 
private  letter  from  its  President,  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  who  in  his  char- 
acter of  President  of  the  Royal  Society  has  given  me  much  instruc- 
tion and  valuable  information.     His  letter  was  dated  a  few  day» 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  375 


before  it  was  known  in  England  that  war  had  been  declared  by  this 
country 

"  I  am  very  respectfully,  your  obd't  serv't, 

"  D.  Humphreys. 

"E.  WatsoxV,  Esq." 

The  correspondence  of  Mr.  Watson  at  this  period  with 
Chancellor  Livingston"  and  Col,  Humphreys,  was  very  volu- 
minous, and  related  chiefly  to  the  introduction  of  Merino  sheep 
their  treatment  and  advantages,  and  the  probable  national 
results  of  the  measure.  These  letters  are  in  my  possession. 
The  bundle  which  contains  them  has  this  endorsement  in  my 
father's  writing:  "From  Chancellor  Livingston  and  Col. 
Humphreys— an  interesting  correspondence  on  the  subject  of 
Merino  sheep,  is  worthy  the  attentive  examination  of  the 
curious  in  future  times."  I  will  only  here  extract  one  passage, 
as  illustrative  of  the  character  of  this  correspondence,  from  a 
letter  of  Chancellor  Livingston,  dated  13th  November,  1808: 

'•  The  samples  you  have  sent  me  of  your  cloth,  are  full  and  satis- 
factory proofs  of^our  ability  to  manufacture  as  good  cloth  as  we 
shall  wish  to  wear;  as.  well  as  the  great  importance  of  cultivating 
the  Merino  breed,  in  preference  to  any  other.  With  a  few  more 
disciples  as  zealous  as  you,  I  doubt  not  that  my  object  will  be  ac- 
complished, and  I  shall  have  the  satisfaction  of  thinking  that  my  old 
age  and  retirement  are  not  wholly  useless  to  the  comnriunity.  My 
irTtroduction  of  this  breed  of  sheep  under  a  shape  and  size  that  does 
not  present  them  disagreeably  at  first  sight— and  my  illustration  of 
their  advantages  by  plain  and  undeniable  facts  and  calculations,  have 
had  a  wonderful  effect,  and  I  find  have  spread  further  than  I  expected, 
among  the  intelligent  farmers  of  the  neighboring  States.  1  am 
glad  to  find  you  are  pursuing  the  same  course;  your  statement  is 
clear  and  convincing.  I  have  now  made  up  the  account  of  profit  and 
loss  of  this  year  of  my  flock,  consisting  of  one  hundred  and  forty- 
five  Merinos  of  different  grades,  together  with  forty  two  common 
ones,  making  the  whole  flock  one  hundred  and  eighty  seven.  And  the 
result,  after  the  payment  of  all  expenses,  including  four  hundred 
and  nine  dollars  on  three  rams  hired  out,  one  of  them  only  three  quar- 
ter blood,  is  a  clear  profit  on  rams,  lambs,  and  wool,  of  $2;696,being 
S14^  per  head.  I  doubt  not' from  the  improved  blood  of  my  pre- 
sent   flock,    and  ray  having  a    greater  number    of   Merino  rams 


376  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REYOLUTION ; 

and  but  twenty-nine  picked  common  sheep,  that  they  will  next  year, 
if  I  am  fortunate  in  the  lambs,  bring  me  $4,000." 

Although  Mr.  Watson  was  a  Republican  in  the  highest  and 
most  emphatic  acceptation  of  the  term,  he  had  rarely  min- 
gled in  the  strife  of  mere  party  conflicts — he  was  never  shack- 
led to  the  car  of  any  political  sect.  Regarding,  however,  the 
policy  of  England  as  an  aggression  and  outrage  upon  the 
rights  and  character  of  the  Republic,  he  earnestly  sustained 
the  measures  which  resulted  in  the  war  of  1812,  and  yielded 
to  the  support  of  that  issue  all  the  patriotic  ardor  and  en- 
ergy of  his  character.  The  following  letters  of  Mr.  Adams, 
to  which  I  have  already  adverted,  exhibit,  in  an  interesting  and 
elevated  aspect,  the  views  and  sentiments  of  that  single-minded 
and  ardent  patriot  on  this  momentous  subject,  at  the  period 
of  its  imminent  crisis  : 

"QuiNCY,  Q,th  July,\^\% 

"  Dear  Sir  : — I  am  favored  with  your  letter  of  the  28th  ult.  It 
has  revived  the  recollections  of  our  former  acquaintance  in  France, 
England,  and  Holland,  as  well  as  in  several  parts  of  our  coun- 
try. I  think,  with  you,  that  it  is  the  duty  of  every  considerate  man 
to  support  the  national  authorities  in  whoseever  hands  they  may  be. 
To  your  allusion  to  the  war,  I  have  nothing  to  say.  But  it  is  with 
surprise  I  hear  it  pronounced,  not  onjy  by  newspapers,  but  by  per- 
sons in  authority,  ecclesiastical  and  civil,  political  and  military, 
that  it  is  an  unjust  and  an  unnecessary  war,  and  that  the  declara- 
tion of  it  was  altogether  unexpected,  &c.  How  is  it  possible 
that  a  rational,  a  social,  or  a  moral  creature  can  say  that  the 
war  is  unjust^  is  to  me  utterly  incomprehensible.  How  it  can 
be  said  to  be  unnecessary  is  very  mysterious.  I  have  thought  it  both 
just  and  necessary  for  five  or  six  years.  How  it  can  be  said  to  be 
unexpected  is  another  wonder.  I  have  expected  it  more  than  five 
and  twenty  years,  and  have  had  great  reason  to  be  thankful  that  it 
has  been  postponed  so  long.  I  saw  such  a  spirit  in  the  British 
Islands,  when  I  resided  in  France,  in  Holland,  and  in  England  itself, 
that  I  expected  another  war  much  sooner  than  it  has  happened.  I 
was  so  impressed  with  the  idea,  that  I  expressed  to  Lord  Landsdowne 
(formerly  Lord  Shelburne,)  an  apprehension  that  his  lordship  would 
live  long  enough  to  be  obliged  to  make,  and  that  I  should  live  long 
enough  to  see  another  peace  made  between  Great  Britain  and  Amer- 
ica. His  lordship  did  not  live  long  enough  to  make  the  peace,  and 
I  shall  not  probably  live  long  enough  to  see  it ;  but  I  have  lived  to 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  377 

see  the  war  that  must  be  followed  by  a  peace,  if  the  war  is  not 
eternal. 

"Our  Agricultural  Societies  may  not  be  so  much  regarded,  but 
the  great  interests  of  agriculture  will  not  be  diminished  by  the  war. 
Manufactures  also  will  be  promoted. 

"  Your  sincere  friend, 

"John  Adams. 
"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq., 

*"* President  Berkshire  Agricul.  Society ^ 

The  ensuing  extract  is  selected  from  a  long  letter,  a  part  of 
which  has  been  inserted  in  preceding  pages,  and  another  por- 
tion I  do  not  feel  at  liberty  to  publish. 

"QuiNCY,  July  I5th,  1812. 

"Dear  Sir: — In  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  9th,  I  have  only  to 
say,  you  may  do  as  you  please  with  my  letter  of  the  6th.  But  if 
you  expect  that  any  opinion  of  mine  will  have  any  influence,  you  will 
find  yourself  mistaken."  ****** 

I  regret  not  to  find  copies  of  the  letters  of  Mr.  Watson  in 
connection  with  the  correspondence  of  Mr.  Adams,  which  fol- 
lows, as  they  doubtless  would  elucidate  many  of  the  allusions 
and  positions  of  the  latter. 

"QuiNCY,  ylw^.  10,  1812. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — Your  favor  of  the  19th  July  is  yet  unacknowledged. 
The  first  page  compels  me  to  say  that  the  real  cause  of  the  rancor- 
ous virulence  with  which  I  have  been  treated  by  all  parties — French 
and  English — democratical  and  aristocratical — and  1  might  add  Pres- 
byterian and  anti-Presbyterian — has  been  that  1  never  was,  and 
never  could  be,  a  passive  tool  of  any  party — demagogue  or  peda- 
gogue. While  I  was  swimming  in  the  full  tide  of  popularity,  and 
had  more  business  at  the  bar  in  Boston  than  any  lawyer  there,  whig 
or  tory,  I  engaged  in  favor  of  Capt.  Preston  and  his  soldiers,  in 
March,  1770.  The  whigs  were  shocked  and  enraged,  yet  they  could 
not  give  me  up. 

"They  conquered  their  disgust  and  resentment  so  far  as  to  choose 
me  representative  of  Boston,  in  May.  I  got  the  trial  postponed  to 
the  next  fall,  that  the  raging  flames  might  not  consume  all  truth, 
honor,  law,  equity,  and  humanity.  At  the  trial  in  the  fall,  I  labored 
like  what? — like  what?  Shall  I  say  like  a  dray-horse — like  a  plan- 
tation slave — or  a  coal-heaver,  for  fourteen  days,  and  obtained  ver- 
dicts that  God  and  man  will  approve.     What  was  the  consequence? 


378  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

Curses  and  denunciations  in  every  street  in  Boston,  with  the  loss  of 
more  than  half  my  business  at  the  bar!  From  that  time  to  this 
I  have  been  the  butt,  the  target  for  wanton  libellers.  All  parties 
have  thouiht  themselves  safe  in  belching  out  any  nauseous  billings- 
gate against  me. 

"My  motive  for  inquiring  into  your  conversation  at  Birmingham 
is  this.  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  Governor  Hutchinson,  Chief 
Justice  Oliver,  all  the  judges  and  ministerial  people  who  were  in 
the  secret,  imputed  to  me  the  impeachment  of  the  judges.  They 
thought  me  the  original  suggester,  the  principal  supporter,  and  the 
most  efficient  conductor  of  that  process.  When  you  told  me  that 
"they  feared  me  more  than  any  or  all  other  men  as  the  author  of  the 
Revolution,"  I  suspect  that  they  meant  and  considered  me  as  the 
author  of  that  impeachment,  and  that  impeachment  as  the  pivot  on 
which  the  Revolution  turned.  I  wished  to  know  whether  that 
impeachment  was  mentioned  or  recollected  in  any  of  your  conversa- 
tion at  Birmingham. 

"  It  has  pleased  God  to  prolong  my  life  to  such  an  age,  that  I  can 
review  all  parties  and  recollect  all  distinguished  characters,  from 
17r)5  to  1812.  T  can  compare  Hutchinson  with  Washington,  Sewall 
and  Oliver  with  Marshall  and  Parsons,  Hancock  with  nobody--he 
never  had  his  equal  in  generosity — but  in  political  stability  with 
Dickinson,  James  Otis  and  Sam.  Adams,  with  Patrick  Henry  and 
Richard  Henry  Lee,  &c.,  &;c.,  &c. 

"  As  nothing  promotes  party  politics,  spiritual  and  temporal,  so 
much  as  pilgrimages,  it  would  not  be  very  astonishing  if  pilgrimages 
to  Mount  Vernon  should  become  as  fashionable  and  as  necessary  to 
worldly  promotion,  if  not  to  eternal  salvation,  as  those  to  Mecca, 
Loretto,  or  Saint  Jago  of  Compostella — I  scarcely  dare  hint  at  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem  and  the  Crusades.  The  sordid  pane- 
gyrics increase  almost  as  fast  as  the  sordid  philippics.  Adulation  is 
as  base  and  as  ill  applied  as  vilification  and  reproach,  thus  confound- 
ing all  degrees  and  distinctions  of  virtue  and  vice,  and  opening  the 
gates  to  corruption  of  the  deepest  and  darkest  dye. 

"  As  President  of  the  old  Massachusetts  Agricultural  Society,  I 
have  laid  before  our  trustees  your  representations  to  me  in  quality  of 
President  of  the  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society.  I  am  sorry  to  be 
obliged  to  say  that  those  gentlemen  are  clearly  of  opinion  they  could 
not  comply  with  your  request  consistently  with  the  design  of  the 
institution,  or  the  letter  and  spirit  of  our  charter. 

*'  I  am  respectfully  and  affectionately  your  friend. 

"John  Adams. 

"  Elkanah  Watson,  PittsfieW 


"  QuiNCY,  Aug.  Wth,  1812. 
"Respected    Sir: — Our    country   is   in  a  hiiih   fever — so  is  all 
Europe — so  are  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe.     Who  first  contracted 


379 


or  generated  the  disease?  Montreal  was  no  sooner  surrendered  in 
1759,  than  the  conqueror  of  Canada  was  discarded  from  the  English 
Cabinet,  a  simple  maniac  ascended  the  throne,  and  a  Machiavelian 
maniac  who  had  been  his  preceptor,  became  his  prime  minister.  The 
design  was  conceived  of  enslaving  these  Colonies  they  pretended  to 
favor.  The  Colonies  resisted  and  France  assisted,  as  the  vain,  pedan- 
tic, delirious  Scot  might  have  foreseen,  if  he  had  possessed  common 
sense. 

"  France,  by  assisting  America,  was  taught  some  confused  notions 
of  liberty,  and  became  delirious  in  her  turn,  and  her  delirium  deranged 
all  Europe  and  all  the  globe.  What  can  cure  this  epidemic'?  Dr, 
Rush  says  nothing  but  copious  phlebotomy  can  cure  the  yelU^w  fever, 
and  almost  all  the  physicians  are  now  converts  to  his  opinion.  Who 
is  to  blame?  Is  not  Britain  the  great  disturber"?  and  has  not  France 
acted  on  the  defensive  throughout  the  whole  squabble?  These  are 
bold  questions,  which  neither  you  nor  1  dare  answer. 

"The  pretty,  little,  innocent,  amiable  singing-bird  could  pour  out 
his  notes  like  a  Bob-o'-Lincoln,  and  charm  the  chorus  of  the  forest,, 
while  he  dogmatized  on  subjects  which  he  understood  not.  But  with 
all  my  childish  vanity,  1  confess  myself  wholly  unable  to  comprehend 
this  vast  system  of  Providence,  in  which  I  have  been  eiiiployed  as  a 
feeble  instrument  for  more  than  fifty  years.  As  far  as  my  feeble 
short-sighted  faculties  can  reach,  Great  Britain  appears  to  me  to  have 
been  the  principal  aggressor,  and  the  original  disturber  of  the  human 
race  for  the  last  half  century. 

"  Two  great  ameliorations  of  terrestrial  existence  have  already  result- 
ed— the  freedom  of  religion  and  the  emancipation  of  the  Africans, 
What  ulterior  blessings  are  in  store,  I  leave  to  the  Father  of  Mercies. 
If  greater  calamities,  I  bow  to  the  chastising  rod. 

"Siberian  wheat,  my  brother  farmer,  is  a  very  small  object  to 
follow  subjects  that  comprehend  the  whole  globe  and  all  our  species. 
It  is  worthy  attention,  however,  and  investigation,  and  fair  experi- 
ment. During  the  Revolutionary  war,  when  you  were  in  Europe, 
Siberian  wheat  was  much  in  vogue  in  this  town.  Mr.  Josiah  Quincy, 
the  grandfather  of  the  present  member  of  Congress,  procured  and 
sowed  a  few  bushels  of  it.  He  succeeded  very  well,  had  a  fine  crop 
which  suffered  nothing  from  the  Hessian  fly,  mildew,  blasting,  or 
weavil.  Enthusiasm  was  excited  in  the  neighborhood  ;  all  he  could 
spare  was  purchased  at  a  high  price  for  sowing.  My  wife  purchased 
some  bushels — others  more.  Quincy  himself  sowed  the  greatest 
part  of  all  he  had.  Expectations  were  high  that  it  would  become 
the  staple  of  New-England.  The  next  year  we  all  failed,  every  plant 
of  it  blasted,  and  seed,  labor  and  all  were  totally  lost.  Notwith- 
standing all  this,  I  have  no  doubt  that  wheat  may  be  raised  in  Massa- 
chusetts as  well  as  anywhere  else,  but  the  land  must  be  under  proper 
cultivation,  particularly  manured  abundantly — the  seed  sowed  so 
early  that  it  may  be  forward  and  vigorous  enough  to  bear  the  win- 


380  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

ter,  and  start  early  enough  in  the  spring  to  shoot  the  grain  and  ear 
forward  before  the  season  of  insects.  But  this  process  which  I  know 
has  succeeded  and  will  succeed,  is  expensive,  and  the  wheat  will  not 
procure  a  price  equal  to  the  labor.  What  is  the  reason  of  this  ? 
Here  lies  the  mystery.     No  Russian  seed  will  retrieve  this. 

"  We  say  and  we  say  truly,  that  agriculture  and  commerce  are 
sisters,  and  their  interests  mutual  and  consistent;  ^but  the  misfortune 
is  that  individuals  and  masses  of  both  orders  of  men  do  not  always 
understand  the  existence  of  both  interests,  and  instead  of  endeavoring 
to  reconcile  them,  employ  all  their  policy  and  influence  to  counteract 
each  other.  The  merchants  in  all  the  seaports  have  always  discour- 
aged the  growth  of  wheat  in  the  provinces  of  the  State.  Why  1 ' 
Because  they  supply  us  with  flour  from  New-York,  Pennsylvania, 
Maryland,  Virginia,  &c.,  and  this  article  constitutes  an  important  link 
in  the  chain  of  their  commerce.  There  is  nothing  the  farmer  can 
raise  except  barley  and  English  hay  that  can  pay  our  labor — even 
Indian  corn  costs  us  more  than  would  buy  it.  Since  my  memory  the 
country  prevailed  to  carry  a  law  in  the  Legislature,  granting  a  small 
bounty  upon  wheat.  The  eflect  in  two  or  three  years  was  an  abun- 
dance of  wheat  at  market  as  good  as  ever  was  raised.  The  bounties 
demanded  of  the  treasury  amounted  to  so  large  a  sum  that  the  sea- 
port towns  alarmed  set  up  a  popular  clamor  against  the  expense,  and 
got  the  law  repealed.  The  cry  about  barberry  bushes,  sea  air,  and 
even  of  the  judgment  of  Heaven  for  persecuting  the  Quakers,  have  all, 
I  have  no  doubt,  arisen  from  the  same  source.  You  will  never  get 
Siberian  wheat  or  any  other  wheat  to  grow  in  New-England  in  quan- 
tities to  constitute  a  steady  staple,  without  an  expensive  cultivation, 
and  that  expense  will  never  be  repaid  while  wheat,  rye,  and  corn 
have  such  a  formidable  rival  in  commerce. 

"  New-York  has  a  great  advantage  over  us  in  her  soil  and  climate. 
The  pure  breed  of  Merino  sheep  I  hope  will  be  cherished  to  the  utmost 
extent,  and  the  mixture  of  them,  but  I  hope  our  old  breed  will  not 
be  neglected.  Superflne  cloths  are  consumed  in  this  country  in  much 
less  quantities  than  fine  cloths,  you  may  depend  on  it.  I  could  say 
much  more  in  elucidation,  but  perhaps  I  should  say  too  much.  I 
could  say  something  about  hemp,  flax,  mulberries,  silk-worms,  silk, 
silk-stockings,  Tim.  Ruggles  and  Hartwich  Fairs.  Agricultural 
patriotism  is  one  thing  and  mercantile  patriotism  another  in  our 
dearly  beloved  Massachusetts.  Both  equally  sincere — both  equally 
bona  fide. 

"Your  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society  and  our  Massachusetts 
Society  for  promoting  agriculture  will  assuredly  quarrel  and  go  to 
war,  as  naturally  as  England  and  the  United  States — as  England  and 
France — unless  both  are  managed  with  great  prudence,  delicacy, 
caution  and  circumspection. 

"Sat  verbum  !  How  is  it  that  agriculture  and  commerce  are  rivals 
in  France,  England,  Holland,  and  what  tremendous  consequences 
have  resulted  from  these  rivalries  1     The  history  of  mankind  might 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  381 

show,  and  a  history  of  this  rivalry  would  be  worth  more  than  Thuci- 
dides,  Tacitu?.  Hume  n^r]  nibSon, 

"I  am,  sir,  with  usual  esteem  and  regard,  your  friend, 

"John  Adams. 

"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq." 


"  QuiNCT,  IQth  Sept.,  1812. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — Inter  arma  silent  leges^  is  what  we  ca]l  an  old  say- 
ing, I  hope  that  scientice  will  not  Le  added.  Full  fifty-five  years 
have  I  observed,  inquired,  read,  and  tried  experiments  to  raise  wheat 
in  New-England.  The  result  is  total  despair.  Let  me  tell  you,  my 
friend,  there  are  no  fanatics  in  religion — no  visionaries  in  philosophy 
— no  heroes  in  an  army — no,  nor  any  misses  in  dancing  and  music — 
more  enthusiastic  than  the  devotees  of  agriculture  and  horticulture. 
They  are  more  harmless  and  more  innocent,  to  be  sure.  You  will 
get  no  aid  from  Boston.  Commerce,  literature,  science,  theology,  are 
against  you — nay,  medicine,  history,  and  University,  and  universal 
politics  might  be  added.     I  cannot — I  will  not  be  more  explicit. 

"The  foil  of  Hull  may  have  thunderstruck  all,  but  it  was  clearly 
foreseen  and  confidently  predicted  by  some,  to  my  knowledge.  Not 
an  ant-hill,  not  a  single  atom  of  Arnoldism  was  in  the  business ;  but 
sheer  ignorance,  inconsideration  and  incapacity  enough,  both  in 
administration  and  execution.  If  one  grain  of  common  sense  had 
been  used,  nothing  would  have  been  attempted  without  a  command- 
ing force  upon  all  the  lakes.  As  to  illuminations  and  rejoicings  at 
Montreal,  I  should  not  wonder  if  they  should  threaten  to  march  to 
Boston,  New-York  and  Philadelphia,  and  conquer  the  United  States, 
from  Mississippi  to  St.  Croix,  as  confidently  as  Hull  threatened  to 
overwhelm  Upper  Canada.  Now  the  tomahawk  will  compel  the 
southern  States  to  be  warlike,  or  to  do  justice  to  the  northern  by  con- 
senting to  a  navy. 

"  Your  friend,  &c., 


Elkanah  Watson,  Esq." 


John  Adams. 


382  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 


CHAPTER     XXIX. 

Gen.  Hull — Letters  from  him — Letter  from  Robert  Fulton — Patriotic  Ex- 
tract— Jewish  Phylactery — Letter  to  Dr.  Williamson — Return  to 
Albany— Testimonials  of  Respect— Tariff  Policy — Destiny  of  New- 
England — Address  before  Berkshire  Society — Agricultural  Labors  in 
New-York — Otsego  County  Society — Gov.  Clinton — Report  on  Agri- 
culture—Correspondence— Organization  of  County  Societies — Foreign 
Circular — Introduction  of  Seeds — Letters  from  Richard  Peters. 

The  reference  in  the  letter  of  Mr.  Adams  to  the  campaign 
of  Gen.  Hull,  appropriately  introduces  a  brief  note  of  the  latter, 
addressed  to  Mr.  Watson  a  few  weeks  before  the  close  of  his 
disastrous  expeilition.  Cordial  and  intimate  relations  of  friend- 
ship had  subsisted  between  them  for  many  years.  The  chivalric 
courage  and  marked  ability  which  had  distinp;uished  the  ser- 
vices of  Gen.  Hull  in  the  war  of  the  Eevolution,  had  led  Mr. 
Watson  in  common  with  the  mass  of  the  nation,  to  form  the 
highest  anticipation  of  a  brilliant  and  successful  issue  to  his 
campaign.  Under  the  excitement  of  these  exhilarating  emo- 
tions, Mr.  Watson  gave  expression  to  them  at  a  political 
festival  on  July  4th,  1812,  in  the  following  toast,  w^hich,  Jrom 
the  events  of  a  few  weeks,  subjected  him  to  numerous  paper 
pellets  and  pasquinades  from  the  anti-war  presses : — "  Gen. 
Hull  and  his  gallant  army  of  farmers  and  veterans,  have  open- 
ed the  ball  in  the  west ;  may  they  conquer  the  British  allies 
by  kindness,  and  lead  down  the  dance  along  the  northern 
shores  of  the  lakes  and  St.  Lawrence,  joining  other  partners 
in  their  progress — together  foot  it  up  to  Quebec  to  the  tune  of 
Yankee  Doodle." 

I  present  the  letter  without  comment,  believing  that  it  con- 
tains a  revelation  of  views  and  sentiments  which  exerted  a 
powerful  influence  in  producing  the  fatal  occurrences  that  soon 
after  transpired. 


383 


"  Camp  Meigs^  on  Mad  River,  near  Dayton^  31 5^  -^fly,  1812. 

"My  Dear  Friend: — The  enclosed  papers  will  show  you  my 
situation.  I  am  in  good  health,  in  a  tent,  and  laying  on  the  ground. 
To-morrow  I  march  to  St.  Mary's,  a  branch  of  Miama  of  Lake  Erie, 
in  the  midst  of  Indian  villages.  There  I  shall  wait  for  Boyd's  regi- 
ment and  some  regulars  from  Pittsburgh,  which  will  join  me  in  a  few 
days.  I  shall  from  thence  commence  my  march  through  the  wilder- 
ness to  Detroit.  I  have  on  hand  a  difficult  and  responsible  command. 
I  hope  to  be  able  to  do  good  to  my  country.  The  Indians  at  present 
appear  very  hostile;  if  I  can  conquer  them  by  kindness  and  justice  I 
shall  be  very  happy — if  not,  the  other  mode  must  be  practised.  God 
bless  you,  your  dear  wife  and  charming  family. 

"In  haste,  sincerely  and  affectionately, 

"W.  Hull. 

"Elkanah  Watson,  Esq." 

The  following  extract  from  a  letter  of  Gen.  Hull,  dated 
Detroit,  30th  November,  1807,  presents  an  interesting  detail  of 
his  valuable  Indian  negotiation,  and  the  attitude  of  public 
affairs  in  that  department. 

"I  had  received  a  commission  from  the  President  to  hold  a  treaty 
with  the  Indians  northwest  of  the  Ohio,  and  had  Qvery  reason  to 
suppose  it  would  have  been  concluded  in  June,  or  July  at  farthest. 
By  the  state  of  public  affairs,  and  indeed  by  circumstances  which  I 
could  not  control,  it  was  not  finished  until  the  17th  inst.  I  was 
obliged  to  advance  the  money  for  the  expense,  and  could  not  draw  with 
propriety  until  the  business  was  accomplished.  I  am  happy  to  in- 
form you  that  it  is  now  finished  to  my  satisfaction,  and  I  have  for- 
warded the  bills  to  Mr.  Ramsey.  By  this  treaty  for  the  considera- 
tion of  ^50,000,  I  have  purchased  from  the  Indians  more  than  five 
million  of  acres,  extending  from  Fort  Defiance  on  the  Miami,  about 
two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  upon  that  river,  Lake  Erie,  the  river 
Detroit,  Lake  St.  Clair,  the  river  St.  Clair,  and  Lake  Huron,  compre- 
hending all  the  rivers  which  fall  into  these  waters,  with  all  ihe  islands 
in  the  same.  The  land  is  of  an  excellent  quality  and  well  situated 
for  improvement.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  advantageous  purcha£<3  the 
United  States  have  ever  made.  Every  Chief  has  signed  the  treaty  who 
has  been  requested,  and  all  appear  perfectly  satisfied.  I  had  many 
difficulties,  but  fortunately  surmounted  them.  The  influence  of  the 
British,  the  Prophet,  the  settlers  on  the  land  without  any  title,  per- 
sons who  had  purchased  from  the  Indians  unlawfully  and  without 
right  large  tracts  of  the  territory,  all  opposed  it.  We  have  built  a 
stockade  and  block-houses  around  the  town,  and  are  obliged  to  be 
vigilant. 


384 


*'  I  have  no  information  by  which  I  can  determine  whether  we  are 
to  have  peace  or  war  with  England.  Every  effort  of  the  British  has 
been  exerted  to  render  the  Indians  hostile  to  us,  every  exertion  on 
my  part  has  been  used  to  keep  them  quiet.  I  hope  and  pray  God 
that  I  may  be  successful." 

In  a  feeling  letter  of  subsequent  date  Gen.  Hull  gives  utter- 
ance to  what  were  doubtless  his  honest  and  sincere  convictions 
of  his  own  integrity,  and  that  he  had  been  pursued  by  unjust 
reproach  and  opprobrium. 

"  Albany,  ISth  Jan.,  1814. 

*'  Dear  Sir — I  have  this  moment  read  your  letter  of  the  3d  inst. 
I  shall  make  no  other  reply  to  the  circumstances  to  which  you  allude 
than  to  make  this  sincere  declaration,  that  I  never  could  have  be- 
lieved my  old  friend  Watson  could  have  presumed  that  I  had  been 
guilty  of  a  dishonorable  action  by  which  I  had  in  any  degree 
forfeited  his  friendship,  until  it  was  proven,  or  that  his  warm  and 
candid  heart  would  have  presumed  anything  but  innocence  and  honor, 
until  the  contrary  was  made  to  appear  by  stronger  evidence  than 
popular  clamour  and  prejudice.  My  old  friends  are  dear  to  me,  and 
deservedly  to  lose  them,  would  be  among  the  greatest  evils  I  could 
be  called  upon  to  endure.  It  is  my  happiness  that  I  now  have  an 
opportunity  to  vindicate  my  character  and  conduct. 

"That  p'art  of  your  letter  which  refers  to  Mrs.  Watson,  has  most 
sensibly  affected  me.  My  friendship  to  her  will  only  end  with  my 
life.  She  is  an  ornament  of  her  sex,  and  has  the  warmest  wish  of 
my  heart  for  her  happiness  here  and  hereafter. 

"  A  consciousness  of  having  served  my  country  with  fidelity  and 
honor  affords  consolation,  which  nothing  can  deprive  me  of.  What- 
ever events  may  take  place,  with  respect  to  myself,  you,  your  excel- 
lent wife  and  amiable  children,  have  my  best  wishes. 

"  I  am  without  any  change,  most  sincerely  your  friend, 

*'  W.  Hull. 

*'  E.  Watson,  Esq." 

The  letter  subjoined  from  Eobert  Fulton,  in  reference  to  a 
torpedo  experiment  upon  the  British  ship  in  Lynnliaven  bay, 
will  be  read  with  interest. 


OK,   MEMOIES  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  3S5 

"New- York,  August  Uth,  1813. 
"  Mr.  Watson  : 

"  Sir  : — Mr.  Mix  who  made  the  experiment  against  the  Plantagenet 
74  in  Lynnhaven  bay,  is  one  of  my  captains.  The  engine  was  within 
ten  feet  of  blowing  her  to  atoms,  and  proving  [to  the  world  a  new 
art  in  war  of  immense  importance  to  our  much  insulted  and  injured 
country.  His  failure  was  only  a  small  error  in  practice,  no  foult 
of  principle.  It  has  given  useful  experience,  and  he  is  still  persevering 
in  high  spirits  and  confident  of  success.  As  government  does  not 
allow  any  fund  for  this  kind  of  enterprize,  I  have  been  at  the  whole 
expense  for  three  months  in  sending  out  various  parties,  who  in 
some  instances  have  been  prevented  from  acting  by  our  own  citizens. 
Governor  Haslet  of  Delaware  would  not  let  my  men  attack  a  "  seven- 
ty four"  near  Lewis,  after  their  outfit  had  cosi  me  $2,000.  I  have 
now  expended  $4,000,  and  find  that  prudence  will  not  allow  me  to 
go  on  under  such  heavy  expenses  ;  hence  for  want  of  funds  to  persevere 
to  success,  a  most  glorious  discovery  may  lay  dormant  and  useless 
to  our  country  for  ages.  You  say  you  can  raise  funds.  If  you  can 
and  will,  it  will  be  a  most  praise-worthy,  patriotic  and  honorable 
act  in  you  and  all  who  give  their  aid ;  and  as  the  reward  from 
government  is  case  of  success  is  ample,  I  can  only  say  that  for  every 
hundred  dollars  paid,  I  will  return  three  hundred  if  we  succeeded 
when  government  pays,  that  is,  the  capital  with  two  hundred  per 
cent.  This,  in  fact,  is  better  than  privateering,  and  encouraging  to 
subscribers.  Hence,  sir,  collect  any  amount,  not  exceeding  for  the 
present  $5,000,  for  that,  I  believe,  will  be  sufficient.  Lend  any  sum 
on  this  condition,  if  not  more  than  $500. 

**  I  am,  Sir,  respectfully,  your  most  obd't, 

"  Robert  Fulton. 

"  Elk  AN  AH  Watson,  Esq. 

"  Please  let  me  hear  from  you  as  soon  as  possible." 

It  is  known  that  circumstances  arrested  the  pursuit  of  these 
measures  by  Mr.  Fulton.  It  is  just  and  proper  I  should  state, 
that  in  making  these  overtures  to  Mr.  Fulton,  my  father  was 
actuated  by  no  pecuniary  motive,  as  might  be  inferred  from 
the  reply.  These  considerations  were  intended  to  be  addressed 
to  others,  but  I  know  he  was  impelled  solely  by  his  deep  ab- 
horrence of  the  sanguinary  atrocities  committed  on  our  coast 

25 


386  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

by  the  enemy,  and  by  an  earnest  desire  for  the  expulsion  of 
their  ships  from  our  waters.  The  fervor  and  enthusiasm  of 
this  feeling  will  appear  from  the  following  patriotic  effusion, 
embraced  in  an  address  before  the  Berkshire  Society  in  Octo- 
ber, 1814,  which  drew  upon  him  the  severe  animadversion  of 
some  presses  of  the  "  peace  party."  The  salutary  admonitions, 
breathed  in  this  ardent  language,  and  addressed  to  a  former 
generation,  may  be  listened  to  with  profit  at  the  present 
day. 

"  It  is  proper  at  this  time  to  glance  at  the  aspect  of  the 
times,  at .  least  in  reference  to  their  bearing  upon  our  manu- 
factures. On  a  former  occasion  I  expressed  to  you  strong 
apprehensions  of  the  fatal  effects  which  would  result  from 
our  party  divisions,  '  that  they  would  eventually  open  a  dan- 
gerous  inlet,  to  admit  sooner  or  later  the  hungry  wolves  of 
Europe  to  fatten  upon  our  follies.'  Threatening  clouds  were 
then  evidently  gathering  in  our  political  horizon— the  storm 
has  gradually  approached  our  borders— heavy  clouds  and  thick 
darkness  now  rest  upon  us— and  our  country,  so  dear  to  us  all, 
is  bleeding  at  every  vein.  Freemen  are  at  length  goaded  into 
action,  hand  in  hand  and  heart  in  heart;  they  have  aroused 
from  their  fatal  lethargy,  in  the  majesty  of  their  strength,  for 
the  defence  of  that  liberty— of  that  Independence,  Washington 
•defended.  We  invoke  his  departed  spirit  to  witness,  that 
Americans  will  never  consign  over  their  descendants  to  be- 
come debased  colonists,  bound  in  chains  and  fetters. 

*  *  *  *  -Jfr  #  :5J. 

"  The  old  revolutionary  motto,  *  United  we  stand,  divided  we 
fall,'  applies  strongly  to  the  present  times.  Yes,  my  country- 
men, if  we  continue  united,  we  shall  stand  like  a  rock  amid 
the  dashing  elements,  and  hold  in  derision  the  angry  waves 
that  spend  themselves  at  our  feet.  This  digression  may  appear 
to  some,  foreign  to  the  peaceful  walks  of  our  Society.  Professing 
as  we  do,  and  it  being  also  enjoined  by  our  charter,  to  be  the 
patrons  of  Ameiican  manufactures,  w^e  must  constantly  keep 
m  view  the  aspect  of  the  times  and  the  necessity  of  relying 
on  ourselves  exclusively  for  these  supplies,  so  essential  to  our 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOK.  387 

wants,  and  the  support  of  the  vast  armies  now  called  into 
the  field  to  protect  our  rights  and  to  avenge  our  wrongs. 

"Our  country  is  invaded  at  various  points.  Our  capitol 
is  burnt  by  modem  Goths  and  Vandals — a  deep  stain  is  stamped 
on  the  page  of  our  history— it  must,  it  will  be  effaced.  The 
cry  'to  arms,  to  arms,'  resounds  on  every  side — in  cities,  in 
villages,  in  valleys,  on  our  hill-tops— all  is  motion  and  military 
array.  One  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  freemen  are  now 
in  arms,  and  half-a-million  in  reserve.  Our  roads  are  alive 
with  young  men  seeking  our  enemies,  while  the  aged  and  ex- 
empts are  forming  into  military  associations.  What  have  we 
to  fear?  It  is  impossible  that  freeborn  Americans  can  be 
doomed  like  East  Indians,  to  be  'hewers  of  wood  and  drawers 
of  water '  to  the  lordly  sycophants  of  Europe.  Rather  than  sur- 
render an  iota  of  a  national  right,  far  better  for  us  to  see  our 
cities  wrapped  in  flames,  and  our  fields  drenched  with  blood,  if 
the  remnant  who  live  can  say,  we  have  a  second  time  saved  our 
liberties  and  have  confirmed  our  Independence.  A  deadly 
blow,  conceived  by  profligate  men  in  the  chambers  of  dark- 
ness and  infamy,  is  leveled  at  the  vitals  of  our  union  and  Inde- 
pendence. 

"Blessed  be  God,  this  is  the  last  generation  of  Englishmen 
who  will  dare  to  assail  the  rights  of  Americans.  The  time  is 
rapidly  approaching  when  our  population  will  far  exceed  theirs. 
Here  also  is  the  last  asylum  of  liberty,  exiled  from  the  cor- 
rupted countries  of  guilty  Europe;  let  us  cherish  and  embrace 
the  fair  fugitive  in  this  land  of  hope  and  promise,  that  the 
whole  human  family  may  eventually  be  blessed  by  our  free- 
dom. 

"Our  enemies  knew  not— they  never  knew  the  true  char- 
acter of  this  people,  although  bone  of  their  bone  and  flesh  of 
their  flesh.  They  had  known  our  kindred  vices  but  not  our 
national  virtues.  The  present  crisis  is  unfolding  them  to 
their  view. 

'*  It  is  time  to  repel  from  our  shores,  and  sweep  from  our 
territory,  the  unblushing  allies  of  savages,  who,  after  the  lapse 
of  a  third  of  a  century,  again  pollute  our  soil,  by  their  detesta- 


388  MEN   AND   TIMES   OF   THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

ble  footsteps.  They  come  from  the  opposite  shores  of  the 
Atlantic,  their  hands  reeking  in  blood — familiar  with  carnage 
and  death,  to  plunge  their  infernal  weapons  into  the  bosoms  of 
unoffending  freemen.  #  *  %  * 

"  Their  hostile  fleets  are  spreading  their  wings  along  our 
coast,  and  their  predatory  crafts  are  carrying  destruction  into 
our  very  rivers  and  harbors." 

During  the  residence  of  Mr.  Watson  in  Pittsfield,  an  inci- 
dent occurred  of  considerable  archaeological  interest,  which 
at  the  time  excited  much  discussion  among  theologists, 
and  awakened  the  vigilant  researches  of  antiquarians.  The 
speculations  it  tended  to  confirm,  and  the  evidences  it  af- 
forded, were  elaborately  discussed  in  various  publications,  some 
of  which  emanated  from  distinguished  sources.  The  facts 
are  presented  in  the  following  letter  of  Mr.  Watson,  in  reply 
to  some  inquiries  addressed  to  him  on  the  subject,  by  Doct. 
Williamson.  The  hypothesis  advanced  by  Mr.  Watson  are 
strengthened  by  the  following  circumstances,  to  which  he  does 
not  allude,  but  which  appear  in  several  other  productions, 
that  the  incident  called  forth. 

The  eminence  upon  which  the  phylactery  was  discovered,  was 
known  at  an  early  period  as  Indian  Hill,  and,  as  it  is  stated 
upon  the  authority  of  a  late  aged  divine  of  Berkshire,  "  an  old 
Indian  had  informed  him,  that  his  father  had  long  been  in 
possession  of  a  book^  which  was  preserved  until  it  had  been 
at  length  deposited  in  the  grave  of  an  Indian  Chief." 

"Pittsfield,  November  10th,  1815. 
"To  Hugh  Williamson: 

"  Dear  Sir  : — In  conformity  with  your  request  to  ascertain  all  the 
facts  in  relation  to  the  interesting  discovery  of  a  Jewish  phylactery, 
in  this  village,  in  June  last,  I  reply.  It  was  ploughed  up  in  the  yard 
of  Mr.  Joseph  Merrick,  a  respectable  inhabitant  who  resides  on  the 
borders  of  the  village,  in  the  midst  of  rubbish,  and  lying  some  inches 
below  the  surface. 

''Immediately  on  hearing  the  rumor  of  the  discovery  I  repaired  to 
the  house  of  Mr.  Merrick,  where  I  found  several  clergymen,  whose 
curiosity  was  greatly  excited  by  the  strange  incident,  and  who  be- 
lieved with  me  that  the  article  must  have  found  its  way  into  this  re- 


OR,    MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  389 


cent  -wilderness,  bj  the  agency  of  some  of  the  descendants  of  Is- 
rael. 

"  Having  previously  read  with  intense  interest  on  the  subject,  and 
being  impressed  with  the  belief  that  the  Indians  of  America  were 
descended  from  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel ;  and  that  they  had  been 
directed  by  the  same  Almighty  hand,  which  had  brought  them  out 
of  the  land  of  Egypt,  to  continue  their  journeyings  in  a  northeast- 
erly course,  probably  for  many  ages,  and  finally  to  reach  this  conti- 
nent at  Behring's  Strait ;  yet  retaining  some  knowledge  of  the  arts 
and  sciences,  and  always  adhering  to  the  rites  of  the  Jewish  religion. 
After  reaching  this  continent,  and  the  lapse  of  many  years,  and 
probably  ages,  some  portions  inclined  to  rest  in  the  northern  region, 
but  most  pursued  a  southern  course,  spreading  in  all  directions,  even 
to  the  southern  extremity  of  South  America,  and  north  to  the  polar 
regions  ;  and  thus  peopling  the  whole  surface  of  both  Americas,  more 
or  less  densely,  according  to  the  varied  climates.  Those  in  the  ex- 
treme north  and  south,  becoming  the  most  savage,  as  in  the  milder 
regions  they  have  been  found  the  most  civilized,  and  in  possession 
of  arts  and  sciences,  especially  in  the  City  of  Mexico  and  Peru. 

"  It  is  not  my  purpose  to  write  a  treatise  on  this  important  sub- 
ject, but  merely  to  skim  the  surface,  in  the  view  of  accounting  in 
some  measure  for  this  very  interesting  discovery.  I  think  it  must 
have  originated  from  these  sources.  It  is  well  known,  even  from 
Sacred  Writ,  that  the  Jews  held  their  phylacteries,  with  the  precious 
scroll  enclosed,  in  religious  reverence.  This  discovery  forms  another 
link  in  the  evidence  by  which  our  Indians  are  identified  with  the  an- 
cient Jews,  who  were  scattered  upon  the  face  of  the  globe,  and  to 
this  day  remain  a  living  monument,  to  verify  and  establish  the  eter- 
nal truths  of  Scripture. 

'•  On  comparing  this  phylactery  with  those  described  in  the  Old 
Testament,  I  found  an  exact  conformity.  I  will  explain  it  in  my 
own  way.  They  are  described  in  Scripture  as  composed  of  five  folds 
of  raw  hide  or  leather,  sewed  compactly  together  by  the  entrails  of 
animals.  In  order  to  understand  the  appearance  of  this  discovery, 
imagine  five  pieces  of  leather  or  rawhide,  or  some  composition  simi- 
lar to  India  rubber,  and  capable  of  resisting  the  ravages  of  time  and 
exposure,  cut  into  squares  of  two  inches,  sewed  together  with 
entrails.  Suppose,  also,  a  hole  in  the  centre,  half  an  inch  in  diameter, 
made  to  admit  a  tube  two  and  a  half  inches  long,  with  islet-holes  at 
the  corners  to  receive  strings — and  you  will  have  an  idea  of  the 
article. 

"  This  tube,  as  described  by  Mr.  Merrick,  was  of  such  a  hard 
spongy  substance  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  he  could  gain  an 
opening  at  one  of  the  sloping  ends,  and  seemed  absolutely  impervious 
to  moisture,  for  although  the  surface  was  incrusted  in  a  manner  to 
evince  its  having  been  probably  exposed  for  many  ages,  yet  I  drew 
out  from  the  tube  three  or  four  scrolls  of  parchment,  which  it  contain- 


390  MEN   AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 


ed  when  found,  and  inscribed  with  texts  of  Scripture,  written  in  He- 
brew, in  an  elegant  manner,  and  the  ink  of  a  beautiful  jet  black.     The 
parchment,  writing,  and  ink,  were  all  perfectly  fresh." 
"  Very  respectfully, 

"E.  Watson." 


In  February,  1816,  Mr.  Watson  returned  to  his  former  resi- 
dence in  Albany.  Thus  abandoning,  he  says — "  All  those  rural 
scenes  which  had  delighted  me — all  my  flocks  and  herds,  which 
I  had  reared  with  infinite  care  for  nearly  nine  years.  In  the 
midst  of  promoting  agricultural  improvements  and  domestic 
industry,  I  returned  to  resume  the  dull  and  monotonous  scenes 
of  a  city  life." 

On  his  departure  from  the  theatre  of  the  labors  and  services 
I  have  briefly  glanced  at,  he  received  numerous  testimonials  of 
social  kindness  and  regard  ;  among  these  the  action  of  the 
Agricultural  Society  exhibits  the  appreciation,  by  its  members, 
of  his  zeal  and  exertions  in  the  promotion  of  these  great  in- 
terests. 

Extract  from  the  Proceedings,  at  a  Meeting  of  the  Berkshire 
Agricultural  Society,  held  on  the  8th  January,  1816  : — 

"  Whereas,  it  has  come  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Berkshire 
Agricultural  Society  that  our  late  President,  Elkanah  Watson, 
Esq.,  is  about  moving  from  this  county — 

"  Voted,  That  the  President  be  instructed  to  convey  to  him 
the  sentiments  of  regret  of  the  Societj^  and  the  high  sense  it 
entertains  of  the  important  services  he  has  rendered,  by  his  pat- 
riotic efforts  to  promote  Agriculture  and  Manufactures,  and  by 
his  perseverance  in  the  establishment  of  this  interesting  In- 
stitution. 

"  Voted,  That  in  order  to  perpetuate  our  gratitude  to  the 
founder  of  this  Society,  there  shall  be  a  premium  offered  an- 
nually for  the  best  blooded  Merino  Buck,  produced  at  the  Pitts- 
field  Cattle  Show  and  Fair,  of  $12,  to  be  called  the  '"Watson 
Cup,'  and  it  shall  be  so  inscribed  thereon." 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  the  letter  of  Thomas  Mel' 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OP   ELKA^^AH  WATSON.  391 

ville,  Esq.,  President  of  the  Society,  communicating  the  pre- 
ceding Eesolutions  : — "  The  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society, 
alike  impressed  with  the  conviction  that  to  your  persevering 
efforts  is  due  the  creation  of  this  valuable  Institution,  and  that 
your  presence  among  us  would  invigorate  its  measures,  were 
deeply  affected  on  being  acquainted  at  their  meeting  yesterday, 
that  you  were  about  to  remove  from  this  county. 

"As  highly  gratifying  as  it  is  to  be  the  organ  of  this  'Hon- 
orable Testimony,'  so  it  is  equally  painful  to  me  to  bid  adieu, 
as  a  resident  member,  of  the  father  of  this  Institution  ;  to 
whose  experience  and  advice  I  have  been  so  much  indebted 
since  I  have  had  the  honor  of  being  chosen  to  the  place  by 
him  vacated." 

The  policy  which  was  calculated  to  foster  and  promote  the 
manufacturing  interests  of  the  country,  was  at  ail  times 
regarded  by  Mr.  Watson  of  the  highest  national  importance, 
dictated  by  wise  considerations  of  political  economy,  and  indis- 
pensable to  the  essential  and  practical  independence  of  the 
republic.  From  the  organization  of  the  government  to  the 
close  of  his  life  he  was  without  change,  the  ardent  and  zealous 
advocate  of  a  tariff  system,  which  should  cherish  and  sustain  the 
feeble  and  precarious  infancy  of  American  manufactures.  The 
subjoined  extract  from  an  article  written  by  him  at  Norton, 
Massachusetts,  in  1789,  and  published  in  the  Boston  papers, 
urges  this  sentiment  with  much  emphasis  and  remarkable  fore- 
cast, portraying  with  almost  historic  fidelity  the  true  interest 
and  the  approaching  destiny  of  New-England : — 

"  The  spirit  of  manufacturing  has  taken  root  in  New-Eng- 
land. We  find  the  effort  sustained  by  the  enterprise  of  a  few 
gentlemen,  struggling  against  the  opposition  of  importing 
merchants  in  our  seaports,  and  the  powerful  artillery  of  the 
busy  agents,  and  the  irresistible  capital  of  the  English  manu- 
facturers, determined  to  assail  and  strangle  the  scheme  in  its 
very  cradle.  It  is  impossible  that  the  feeble  capital  of  country 
gentlemen,  however  ardent  and  patriotic  they  may  be,  can 
sustain  the  conflict  against  such  fearful  odds,  unless  Congress 
shall  protect  and  sustain  them  by  heavy  duties.     Yet  I  have 


392  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

been  delighted  to  witness  at  Taunton  in  this  vicinity,  manufac- 
tories in  iron  on  a  respectable  scale.  Indeed,  I  think  that 
pleasant  place  bids  fair  in  time  to  become  the  Sheffield  of 
America. 

"  At  Norwich  they  have  stocking  looms  established  and  looms 
for  weaving  duck  by  water — the  invention  of  a  native  genius. 
At  Hartford,  woolen  and  glass  factories  have  been  erected, 
and  I  am  sorry  to  add,  that  these  are  in  a  sickly  condition.  It 
will  far  exceed  my  present  limits  to  enter  upon  details  on  that 
head.  As  a  general  remark  I  will  venture  to  predict,  how- 
ever improbable  under  existing  circumstances  it  may  appear — 
that  New-England  is  destined  at  some  future  day  to  become  a 
serious  competitor  with  Old  England  ;  and  when  that  event 
takes  place  to  a  great  extent,  it  will  be  the  first  prominent 
admonition  to  proclaim  the  downfall  of  the  latter.  The  face  of 
the  country,  the  soil  and  climate,  the  genius  and  enterprise  of 
the  people,  are  all  analogous.  We  want  nothing  but  age,  capital, 
and  a  dense  population.  All  the  elements  of  a  great  manufac- 
turing community,  in  a  healthy  country,  abounding  with  water- 
falls, insure  such  an  ultimate  result.  The  southern  States  will 
then  receive  our  goods  in  exchange  for  their  prominent  raw 
material — cotton.  Ten  years  ago  I  little  thought  of  seeing  in 
my  time  the  evidences  I  already  witness — the  germ  of  rising 
manufactories.  In  the  reign  of  Elizabeth  most  of  the  wool 
grown  in  England  was  sent  to  Holland  and  Flanders,  to  be 
manufactured  for  the  use  of  the  English.  At  this  time  the 
English  supply  half  the  human  race  with  woolen  cloths,  and 
are  insensibly  undermining  the  wealth  and  population  of  the 
very  countries  which  formerly  supplied  them  with  these  fabrics. 
In  fact,  woolens  constitute  the  main  basis  of  the  wealth  and 
glory  of  Old  England  ;  as  an  emblem  of  which,  her  lord  Chan- 
cellor is  seated  on  a  woolsack.  To  aid  in  supplanting  the 
English  in  this  their  favorite  element,  I  mean  as  far  as  in  me 
lies  to  preach  to  the  people  of  New-England,  and  to  urge  them 
to  open  their  eyes  and  their  ears  on  this  great  object,  which 
will  in  my  opinion  form  the  main  pillar  of  their  future  prosper- 
ity and  strength.     Every  information  on  the  subject  should  be 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  393 

collected  and  transmitted  to  the  Congress  acting  under  the  new 
Constitution — they  have  the  power  to  afford  protecting  duties. 
A  merchant  of  Providence  assured  me  that  cotton  cards,  made 
in  this  State  and  shipped  from  thence  to  England,  were  sold 
at  a  handsome  profit,  after  paying  freight,  &c.,  and  that  they 
were  of  a  superior  quality  to  those  made  in  England.  This 
seems  to  me  the  prelude  to  further  triumphs,  which  will  turn 
the  scales  and  astonish  our  former  masters." 

The  succeeding  autumn  Mr.  Watson  attended  by  request 
the  Berkshire  Fair,  and  delivered  an  address,  from  which  I 
make  the  following  extract,  for  the  patriotic  emotions  it 
breathes,  and  the  lessons  of  practical  admonitions  it  inculcates, 
which  will  be  read  with  interest  and  profit  from  their  adapta- 
tion to  all  times  and  places  where  the  institutions  of  freedom 
exist. 

"My  only  object  in  addressing  to  you  a  few  words  is,  again 
to  express  my  undiminished  zeal  for  your  prosperity  and  hap- 
piness, and  to  endeavor  to  impress  on  your  minds  the  vast 
importance  of  continuing  your  labors. 

"  Your  measures,  my  friends,  (with  whom  I  have  been  so 
long  accustomed  to  act  in  this  pleasing  and  useful  employment,) 
are  considered  by  the  American  nation,  not  as  localized,  or 
identified  with  the  immediate  interests  of  Pittsfield,  or  Berk- 
shire, or  Massachusetts.  No,  gentlemen,  I  can  say  with  pride 
and  pleasure,  the  eyes  of  America  are  fixed  on  your  patriotic 
course.  For  some  weeks  past  we  find  the  public  papers,  from 
Maine  to  Georgia — from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Mississippi,  all 
teeming  in  the  praises  of  your  society,  and  holding  it  up  to 
view^  as  worthy  of  general  imitation. 

"  Several  agricultural  societies  are  recently  organized,  others 
are  in  contemplation,  and  all  avowedly  on  your  model.  It  will 
be  peculiarly  grateful  to  every  member  of  this  Society  to  know 
that  the  mother  Society  in  this  State  is  at  length  aroused  from 
her  lethargy,  cautiously  treading  in  your  footsteps.  The  week 
ensuing,  they  will  exhibit  their  first  cattle-show  at  Brighton. 
They  are  blessed  with  respectable  funds,  which  have  been  for 
years  accumulating,  but  of  no  practical  use  to  the  community 


894  MEN   AND   TIMES    OF   THE   EEVOLUTION 


thus  far.  They  will  now  excite  a  laudable  spirit  of  emulation 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital,  and  from  their  powerful  example 
extensive  benefits  will  doubtless  spread  in  every  direction. 
Your  exemplary  measures  are  considered  national,  since  their 
influence  is  extending  into  every  section  of  this  great  repub- 
lic. With  this  truth  in  view,  and  in  a  full  knowledge  how  far 
this  immediate  community  has  been  benefited  by  the  visible 
and  increasing  effects  resulting  from  a  general  excitement, 
every  farmer  in  this  country  must  be  dead  to  his  own  interests, 
dead  to  the  honor  of  Berkshire,  not  to  contribute  his  mite  to  a 
general  fund,  on  which  alone  must  depend  the  existence  of 
this  Society.  Since  practical  experiments  and  keeping  alive 
that  excitement  are  the  essential  points  in  view,  the  more  sim- 
ple your  future  course,  the  greater  will  be  public  confidence- 
Tli3  only  effectual  measure  to  keep  your  wheels  in  motion  is 
to  oil  them — oil  them  by  an  exact  punctuality  in  your  voluntary 
engagements.  A  few  annual  drops  of  this  oil  from  each  farmer 
will  eventually  overspread  this  country  with  wealth  and  happiness. 
"  The  present  distressed  situation  of  America  is  full  of  evidence 
that  we  must  fall  back  on  our  native  resources  to  a  certain 
point.  Although  the  sbelves  of  our  merchants  and  the  stores 
of  our  custom  houses  are  loaded  with  foreign  manufactures^ 
estimated  at  the  frightful  sum  of  two  hundred  millions  of  dol- 
lars, and  selling  off  at  half  their  intrinsic  value,  on  the  insidious 
calculation  of  destroying  our  manufactories — although  we  are 
standing  on  the  verge  of  a  precipice  which  threatens  universal 
desolation  to  the  mercantile  and  manufacturing  portions  of  the 
nation — yet  it  is  grateful  to  the  patriot's  eye  to  see  so  large  a 
proportion  of  this  respectable  assemblage  clad  in  homespun,  on 
the  increase  of  which,  keeping  pace  in  all  probability  with  the 
increase  of  agricultural  societies,  will  be  found  one  of  the  main 
pillars  in  support  of  our  substantial  independence.  In  a  word, 
my  friends,  we  must  practice  the  salutary  lessons  of  economy, 
we  must  retrace  the  humble  footsteps  of  our  ancestors,  or  he 
enslaved  to  our  creditors  at  home  and  abroad.* 

*  Every  subsequent  year  has  realized  the  truth  of  this  prediction,  arising  prin- 
cipally from  excessive  importations  of  foreign  fabrics,  also  from  habits  of  ex- 


395 


"The  only  pride  of  our  females  in  these  gloomy  times,  (and 
much  depends  on  their  example,)  should  be  to  be  attired  in  the 
work  of  their  own  hands,  and  to  see  their  fathers,  their  hus- 
bands, their  brothers,  nay,  their  lovers  marching  by  their  side* 
clothed  in  homespun  also  of  their  own  making. 

"  We  must  buy  less — make  more  ;  holding  credit  as  the  bane 
and  curse  of  this  community  ;  thus  also  holding  ihe  lawyers 
and  sheriffs  at  defiance.  Every  freeman  would  then  rest  in 
peace  under  his  own  vine,  and  walk  erect  with  a  firm  and 
manly  step,  truly  the  lords  of  the  creation." 

Mr.  Watson  had  scarcely  become  settled  in  the  repose  and" 
quiet  of  his  new  residence,  when  applications  were  addressed 
to  him  from  various  sections  of  the  country,  soliciting  his 
aid  and  advice  in  the  organization  of  agricultural  societies 
upon  the  Berkshire  model.  In  the  autumn  of  the  next  year, 
he  visited  Otsego  county,  and  efficiently  co-operated  in  the 
formation  in  that  county  of  the  first  society  established  in 
New- York,  upon  the  new  system.  At  the  fair  he  delivered 
an  address  and  proclaimed  the  premiums.  Governor  Clinton 
in  his  inaugural  to  the  Legislature  at  the  session  of  1818, 
urged  with  great  force  the  establishment  of  a  State  Agricul- 
tural Society,  of  a  Board  of  Agriculture,  and  as  a  necessary 
relation,  the  institution  of  county  societies.  A  joint  commit- 
tee on  the  subject  of  both  houses  submitted  an  elaborate  re- 
port, sustaining  and  enforcing  the  suggestion  of  the  Executive, 
and  pressing  the  initiation  of  a  system  of  state  patronage  to  its 
vast  and  expanding  agricultural  interests.  The  report  com- 
prehended an  ample  and  detailed  exhibition  of  the  progress  of 
agricultural  improvements,  the  benefits  of  the  application  of 
science  to  husbandry,  and  the  importance  of  developing  the 
capabilities  and  resources  of  the  State.  This  production  was 
chiefly  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  Watson. 

Party  spirit  infused   its  malignant  influence  into  the  consi- 
deration of  this  subject, — impeded  and  eventually  arrested  all 

travagance  and  dissipation.  The  evil  is  now  at  its  height ;  the  whole  commu- 
nity in  city  and  country  feel  its  dreadful  effects.  Although  a  severe,  yet  I  trust 
it  will  prove  a  salutary  lesson.     March,  1820, 


396  MEN   AND   TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION 


legislative  action.  The  zeal  and  energetic  efforts  of  Mr. 
Watson  at  this  crisis,  subjected  him  to  unworthy  suspicions 
and  the  most  illiberal  denunciations.  He  was  openly  assailed 
in  the  Legislature,  his  patriotic  labors  were  ascribed  to  selfish 
and  personal  ambition,  and  to  the  lust  of  office. 

I  shall  be  pardoned  for  the  declaration  that  the  ardent  and 
protracted  exertions  of  my  father  in  the  promotion  of  the 
varied  projects  of  public  and  local  improvement,  which  he 
agitated,  could  never  have  been  actuated  by  any  purpose  of 
official  emolument  or  for  the  attainment  of  position  or  influence. 
While  he  disbursed  in  the  prosecution  of  these  objects  large 
sums  from  his  own  estate,  and  by  his  devotion  to  public  inter- 
terests  deeply  impaired  his  private  fortune,  he  in  no  instance, 
although  often  solicited  to  do  so,  occupied  any  official  position 
that  conferred  emoluments,  and  never  received  one  dollar  for  re- 
muneration of  any  of  these  services  from  the  public  treasury. 

Mr.  Watson  devoted  several  succeeding  years  almost  ex- 
clusively to  an  extensive  and  most  voluminous  correspondence 
spreading  throughout  the  Union  and  to  Europe,  in  advancing 
the  general  cause  of  agriculture,  in  diffusing  the  results  of  his 
own  experience  and  observation,  and  in  aiding  the  organiza- 
tion of  agricultural  societies. 

In  addition  to  these  labors,  he  personally  assisted  in  the 
formation  of  county  societies  in  Oneida,  Schoharie,  Mont- 
gomery, Rensselaer,  New- York,  and  other  counties,  attended 
their  Fairs,  and  delivered  at  each  formal  addresses.  His  posi- 
tion, and  it  was  ascribed  to  him  by  numerous  correspondents' 
was  that  of  an  Agricultural  Missionary. 

In  the  absence  of  a  Board  of  Agriculture,  Mr.  Watson  vir- 
tually assumed  its  laborious  and  expansive  duties,  and  dis- 
charged many  of  its  appropriate  functions.  Thus  in  1818, 
he  issued  a  personal  circular  to  the  American  Consuls  in 
various  countries,  urging  them  to  aid  in  the  introduction  of  im- 
proved animals,  seeds  and  implements. 

In  numerous  instances  these  appeals  received  liberal  and 
patriotic  responses  in  the  transmission  of  valuable  varieties  of 
foreign  seeds.  These  he  widely  disseminated  by  the  me- 
dium of  county  societies  and  other  effective  agencies.     Several 


397 


of  the  varieties  of  grain  introduced  by  this  instrumentality, 
proved  of  the  highest  value,  and  became  the  predominant 
staples  in  some  districts  in  the  State. 

As  a  type  of  the  agricultural  intercourse  to  which  I  have 
referred,  and  suggestive  of  its  character  and  value,  I  introduce 
the  following  letter  from  Judge  Peters,  eminent  as  a  jurist,  and 
highly  (Conspicuous  as  an  agricultural  economist  and  writer. 
It  derives  value  from   the  practical  suggestions    and  philoso- 


phical views  of  the  writer. 


"  Belmont,  21st  August,  1819. 


*'  Dear  Sir  : — In  answer  to  your  letter,  I  shall  at  all  times  cheer- 
fully co-operate  with  you  in  the  good  cause  in  which  you  take  so 
much  interest.  It  is  high  time  that  some  younger  champion  should 
substitute  himself  and  suffer  you  to  beat  rest.  You  are  an  itine- 
rant missionary  gathering  your  own  congregation.  You  have  hearers, 
whereas  I  have  been  for  some  fifty  years  a  stationary  preacher,  and 
until  lately  have  delivered  discourses  to  empty  benches. 

Magna  est>eritas  et  prevalebit. 

"I  am^  rejoiced  at  the  present  agricultural  zeal.  What  a  garden 
would  our  country  have  been,  if  one-half  the  spirit  now  exhibited 
had  shown  itself  half  a  century  ago.  1  shall  send  you  some  salt 
pamphlets.  I  am  desirous  you  should  receive  them,  because  you 
will  find  developed  the  means  of  renovating  the  sandy  land  of  your 
friends  at  Plymouth,  and  other  places  on  the  sea-board.  They  must 
make  themselves  masters  of  the  subject  by  experiments  on  the  quan- 
tities of  sea  sand  or  salt  applicable  to  their  lands  per  acre.  In  New- 
Jersey,  on  some  parts  of  the  coast,  the  farmers  apply  sea  sand  to 
the  most  barren  and  unpromising  sandy  soils  with  great  effect,  and 
yet  with  little  judgment  or  care.  If  some  principles,  and  some  re- 
gard to  circumstances,  both  as  to  quantity  applied,  time  of  applica- 
tion and  mode  of  preparation,  were  established,  how  much  more 
would  be  made  of  this  powerful  auxiliary  of  their  husbandry. 
Sand  applied  to  sand  is  contrary  to  all  known  principles.  The 
magic  power  lies  in  the  salt  and  not  the  mixture  of  soil.  Sand  with 
loom  and  (better)  clay  is  known  to  be  efficacious.  The  salt  of 
the  sea  sand  must  alone  be  the  cause  of  the  fertility. 

"  You  ask  me,  what  I  think  of  plaster  on  the  sea-coast  or  on  salte 
ed  grounds,    with    sedge,     sea-weed    and    other    products    of    th 
shores  or  marshes  on  coasts.     My  reply  is,  that  I  should   prefer  the 
salt  sand,  salt  or  salt  grass,  and  without  the  plaster.     I  am  certain 


398  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF   THE  REVOLUTION; 

the  great  balance  of  facts  has  been  unfavorable  to  grounds  plastered 
on  sea-coast,  or  with  salted  manures.  Sea  sand,  or  salt,  should  be 
ploughed  in  in  the  autumn,  to  prevent  evaporating,  unless  used  as 
a  top  dressing.  The  clay  burning  manure  is  hobby-horsical  with 
me.  I  am  apt  to  set  other  people  at  doing  what  I  am  too  old  to 
do  myself. 

"Yours,  very  truly, 

"  EiCHARD  Peters. 

"  Elkanah  Watson." 

A  second  letter  from  Judge  Peters,  of  a  later  date,  and  on  a 
different  subject,  possesses  intrinsic  interest,  and  singularly 
exhibits  the  expansion  of  Mr.  Watson's  zeal  in  promoting 
the  success  of  all  objects  of  public  improvement. 

"Belmont,  18^A  April,  1824. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — I  have  been  waiting  before  I  answered  your  letter 
on  the  subject  of  your  usually  zealous  propensity  to  encourage  agri- 
cultural prosperity,  and  in  relation  to  our  Schuylkill  and  Susquehanna 
communications,  for  some  indisputable  proofs  that  Mr.  Wright,  for 
whom  we  all  entertain  much  respect,  had  spoken  unadvisedly  and 
contrary  to  his  usual  caution  on  the  latter  subject.  I  separated  the 
parts  of  your  letter,  and  sent  extracts  of  the  agricultural  part  to  our 
Agricultural  Society  in  Philadelphia,  where  it  was  received  w^ith  the 
estimation  due  to  it.  I  have  requested  some  of  the  members  to  en- 
quire for  and  send  you  some  of  the  wheat  you  desire,  if  it  be  now 
practicable.  I  have  also  given  the  information  respecting  the  wheat 
which  resists  the  fly,  to  an  old  society  I  formed  in  my  neighborhood 
thirty-seven  or  thirty-eight  years  ago,  styled  the  Blockly  and 
Merion  Society  for  Promoting  Agricultural  and  Rural  Economy.  1 
have  no  doubt  proper  advantage  will  be  taken  of  your  kind  infor- 
mation. 

"  As  to  the  gloomy  forebodings  of  *  the  total  failure '  of  our  canal 
and  lock  navigation,  coming  from  so  respectable  a  judge  of  such 
matters  as  is  Mr.  Wright,  I  was  made  very  uneasy.  I  have  no 
shares  in  the  stock,  and  am  only  interested  as  are  all  the  community 
who  will  profit  by  public  improvement.  I  cautiously  communicated 
this  part  of  your  letter  to  one  or  two  gentlemen  from  whom  I  knew 
I  could  obtain  candid  information.  The  result  is,  that  lam  persuaded 
Mr.  Wright's  prophecy  is  by  no  means  justifiable.  lie  has  taken 
facts  too  much  on  trust,  for  it  so  turns  out  that  he  has  never  seen  a 
foot  of  the  ground  or  viewed  any  of  the  works  on  the  river.  I  have 
a  letter  from  a  disinterested  and  intelligent  friend  w^ho  had  a  con- 


OR,  MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  399 

versalion  with  Mr.  Wright  on  the  subject.  He  thought,  and  perhaps 
very  justly,  that  the  Navigation  Company  were  wasting  the  water, 
which  ought  to  be  exclusively  devoted  to  the  canals,  leading  from 
their  dams  to  water-power  for  mills  and  machinery ;  and  that  such 
erections  should  be  placed  on  the  sides  of  the  Schuylkill,  opposite  the 
canals.  I  have  always  myself  been  of  this  opinion.  It  will  proba- 
bly be  found  so  on  experience,  and  can  be  changed  at  pleasure  so  as 
to  avoid  'a  total  loss,'  and  very  little  even  of  a  partial  one.  I 
have  never  been  a  friend  to  damming  rivers  for  internal  naviga- 
tion. I  agree  with  Brinsley  that  for  such  purposes  'rivers  are  only 
to  be  used  for  filling  canals.'  The  canal  from  the  Schuylkill  to  the 
waters  of  the  Susquehanna  has  progressed  successfully  thirty-five 
miles  towards  its  ultimate  object,  and  will  be  completed  this  year,  and 
this  is  an  important  link  in  the  chain  of  communication  with  the 
lakes.  Mr.  Wright  never  saw  any  part  of  this,  so  that  his  infidel- 
ity is  under  the  description  of  that  of  faith  in  the  good  Book,  which 
is  said  to  be  the  'evidence  of  things  not  seen.'  The  most  difficult 
of  the  whole  of  this  canal  is  finished  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  man- 
agers, who  are  intelligent  men,  and  confident  of  success  in  the  re- 
maining part  of  the  communication.  Indeed  a  great  proportion  of 
what  is  called  the  river  navigation  consists  of  canals.  It  so  happens 
too  that  the  managers  have  anticipated  your  well  intentioned  re- 
commendation, and  the  work  is  under  the  direction  of  pupils  of  Mr. 
Wright,  who  have  no  control  in  their  opinions,  and  possess  the  con- 
fidence of  the  managers.  Every  thing  therefore,  is  agreeable  to 
your  own  views  of  the  subject.  I  knew  your  object  was  merely  to 
do  a  service  to  an  undertaking  falling  in  with  your  long  indulged 
and  meritorious  propensities.  Mr.  Wright,  I  fondly  hope  and 
believe,  is  mistaken,  but  nobody  imputes  to  him  unworthy  motives. 
Even  if  those  who  are  elated  with  the  highly  honorable  success  of 
the  stupendous  New-York  Canals,  had  pronounced  the  fate  of  ours, 
we  should  not  have  imputed  it  to  anything  but  the  consciousness  of 
superiority  and  not  to  invidious  reflections.  '  Ihe  eagle  suffers  lit- 
tle birds  to  sing.'  If  we  cannot  equal  your  great  work,  we  are  en- 
deyoring  to  arrive  at  the  same  point  by  a  passage  comparatively  in- 
ferior, but  to  us  all-important.  I  hope  I  may  be  mistaken  in  my 
objections  to  river  navigation,  by  dams,  and  I  should  be  very  glad 
of  b^ing  found  in  error,  even  if  alone;  but  I  should  be  kept  from 
being  ashamed  of  an  erroneous  opinion,  when  Mr.  Wright  bore  me 
company. 

"  Accept  sincere  assurance  of  my  being  very  truly  yours, 

"  Richard  Peters. 
*'  Elkanah  Watson." 

The  correspondence  of  Mr.  Watson  with  the  Agricultural 
Society  of  Hartford  County,  Connecticut,  w^hich  occurred  in 
the  year  1818,  presents  him  in  a  different  attitude  in  his  rela- 


400  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

tion  to  agricultural  movements  of  that  period,  and  shows  the 
nature  of  the  services  in  that  cause  which  he  was  habitually 
called  upon  to  discharge. 

He  refers  in  liis  journal  to  this  Society,  in  the  following 
language  : — "  Although  my  labors  for  the  promotion  of  agricul- 
ture and  manufactures  have  been  generally  ardent,  and  engaged, 
levying  heavy  contributions  on  my  feeble  purse,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  my  favorite  Berkshire  I  know  of  no  place  where  I 
have  labored  with  more  effect  than  in  Hartford,  Connecticut, 
by  stimulating  their  measures  on  the  Berkshire  plan." 

"  These  efforts  have  contributed  essentially  to  diffuse  the  sys 
tern  through  that  enlightened  State,  and   subsequently  by  the 
influence  of  emigrants,  into  various  counties  in  Ohio.     In  this 
view  I  trust  the  subjoined  correspondence,  which  led  to  such 
results,  will  be  deemed  worthy  of  preservation. 

Extract  from  a  Letter  to  Henry  L.  Ellsworth,  Corresponding  Secre- 
tary of  the  Hartford  Agricultural  Society  : — 

"Albany,  2d  Jan.,  1818. 

«  Sir — I  have  received  a  letter  from  David  Porter,  Esq.,  Chairman 
of  the  Viewing  Committee  of  your  patriotic  Society,  requesting  ex- 
planation of  the  Two  Farrow  tlough,  mentioned  in  my  Address  to 
the  Otsego  County  Agricultural  Society,  on  the  I4th  Oct.  last,  en- 
closing also  your  By-Laws,  and  requesting  my  remarks  on  the 
former. 

"  I  owe  to  Mr.  Porter  a  respectful  reply,  through  you,  as  the  organ 
of  your  Society,  as  I  feel  a  deep  interest  in  your  success,  so  impor- 
tant in  its  ultim.ate  effects  upon  the  respectable  State  of  Connecticut. 
In  respect  to  the  plough  the  enclosed  will  furnish  an  answer ;  but  I 
cannot  resist  the  impulse  to  observe,  in  native  frankness,  that  a  people 
so  intelligent  and  so  highly  advanced  as  those  of  Connecticut,  should 
be   so  .singularly  ignorant  of  the  science  of  agriculture  in  its  first 

practical  principles,  surprises  me  ;  above  all,  that should  have 

been  uninformed  as  to  the  existence  of  the  Two  Eurrow  Plough  in 
England. 

"  You  have  a  glorious  field  spread  out  before  you.  Your  found- 
ations are  firmly  established,  resting  upon  men  of  eminence — you 
have  much  to  do,  aside  from  the  general  interest  of  your  immediate 
community — you' will  derive  infinite  pleasure  in  your  progress,  from 
the  conscious  pride  of  patriotism,  that  you  are  promoting  the  welfare 
and  happiness  of  thousands  at  every  step. 

"But,    rely  upon  it,    that  your*  success  will    depend    upon    the 


401 


steady  and  active  efforts  of  three  or  four  efficient  men  of  business 
habits,  who  will  devote  themselves  to  details. 

"  In  respect  to  the  By-Laws,  I  had  already  sent  for  them,  and  can- 
didly admit  that  they  are  an  improvement  on  those  of  Berkshire,  al- 
though founded  on  that  basis.  I  regret,  however,  that  you  have  not 
added  premiums  on  household  manufactures,  so  essential  and  so  in- 
timately identified  with  the  cause  of  agriculture  ;  besides,  the  pleas- 
ure you  will  all  derive  (as  we  have  done)  from  enlisting  the  female 
portion  of  the  community  in  your  pursuits,  in  all  that  relate  to 
domestic  manufactures,  rest  assured,  by  adding  their  presence,  you 
will  soon  call  forth  all  their  energies.  Permit  me,  therefore,  most 
earnestly  to  recommend  the  addition  to  your  first  section,  after  the 
words  'Rural  Economy,'  the  words  'and  Household  Manufac- 
tures.' 

"  I  am  wholly  ignorant  of  your  course,  your  means,  or  immediate 
views;  but  I  am  delighted  to  find  that  you  have  already  adopted 
town  committees,  and  a  Viewing  Committee  of  Agriculture,  on  the 

Berkshire  model.     In  answer   to  Mr.  P ,  as    to  the  Viewing 

Committee,  I  beg  leave  to  refer  him  to  my  Address  before  the  Otsego 
Society.  Again,  you  ought,  in  the  course  of  this  month,  to  publish 
your  list  of  premiums,  and  fix  on  your  place  of  Exhibition  next 
flill. 

"  I  doubt  not  your  salutary  example  will  produce  great  and  exten- 
sive eflTects,  particularly,  should  you  be  induced  to  assign  one-third  of 
your  premiums  exclusively  to  females,  not  less  than  $400,  chieliy  in 
spoons  and  tea  apparatus,  in  solid  silver.  This  will  doubtless  require 
extra  means.  Fifty  gentlemen,  subscribing  each  $10,  will  do  the 
business,  and  I  shall  be  proud  to  open  the  ball  as  one. 

"  The  stake  is  great,  the  first  impulse  all-important,  and  you 
should,  as  we  did  in  Berkshire,  proclaim  liberal  premiums,  with  an 
empty  treasury,  and  rely  on  a  good  Providence  for  relief.  We  were 
never  disappointed  ;  every  year  our  efforts  v/ere  crowned  with  a  glo- 
rious success. 

"  Permit  me  further  to  advise  you  to  fix  tiie  attention  of  the  far- 
mer to  the  Viewing  Committee,  and  to  commence  preparatory  meas- 
ures, even  this  winter,  as  respects  compost  manures,  preparing  for 
their  fences  and  repairing  their  buildings.  Also  to  request  all  the 
intended  candidates  for  premiums  to  notify  you  by  June,  their  ob- 
jects, residences,  &c.,  preliminary  to  the  grand  review  in  July  next. 
Lest  I  weary  your  patience,  I  v/ill  close  by  a  tender  of  ray  best  ser- 
vices, in  every  way  in  my  power,  and  shall  be  highly  gratified  should 
it  be  possible  to  assist  you  in  person  at  your  first  essay,  which  is  so 
essential  to  your  future  success  and  glory. 

"  I  am,  very  cordially,  &c., 

*'E.  Watson." 

26 


402  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

Letter  from  Henry  L.  Ellsworth,  Esq.,  Corresponding  Sec- 
retary of  the  Hartford  Agricultural  Society : — 

"  Windsor,  Conn.,  26th  March,  1818. 

"  Sir  : — In  compliance  with  the  request  of  the  Hartford  Agricul- 
tural Society,  held  at  Hartford  on  the  24th  inst.,  I  have  the  honor  to 
inform  you  that  you  were  duly  electedj  an  honorary  member  of  the 
same.  At  the  same  time  I  was  directed  to  offer  you  their  unanimous 
thanks  for  the  interesting  letter  addressed  to  the  Corresponding  Sec- 
retary, and  the  deep  solicitude  you  therein  express  for  our  success. 
In  pursuance  of  your  advice  the  Society  have  determined  to  include 
in  their  premiums  '  Domestic  Manufactures,'  with  those  on  Agricul- 
ture, of  which  I  inform  you  with  great  pleasure. 

"  With  the  respects  and  thanks  of  the  Society,  please  to  accept 
the  assurance  of  my  highest  personal  respect  and  esteem. 

"  Henry  L.  Ellsworth." 

"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq., 

"  Late  Fresident  of  Berkshire  Agrl.  So.'^ 

"  Albany,  8^/i  April,  181.8. 

"  To  Henry  L.  Ellsworth,  Esq.,  Coresponding  Secretary. 

"  Sir  : — I  am  honored  with  your  favor  of  26th  ult.,  notifying 
me  of  an  election  as  honorary  member  of  your  interesting  society. 
For  this  permit  me  to  express  my  gratitude. 

"  I  feel  safe  in  hazarding  a  prediction  that  great  results,  even  to 
future  ages,  will  grow  out  of  your  patriotic  efforts.  They  will  tend  to 
arrest  the  tide  of  emigration  which  constantly  flows  from  your  State, 
robbing  it  of  its  legitimate  energies. 

"  Contemplating  your  Society  in  these  views,  I  am  proud  in  becom- 
ing one  of  its  members,  and  since  America  is  my  country,  I  know  of 
no  local  prepossessions,  and  shall  contribute  to  your  prosperity  by 
every  means  in  my  power. 

*'  I  have  had  it  in  contemplation  to  attend  your  exhibition,  14th 
October  next,  but  as  I  have  recently  received  and  accepted  invita- 
tions to  attend  those  of  Jefferson  in  September,  at  Oneida,  the  week 
following,  and  at  Otsego,  the  week  after,  and  having  also  been 
requested  by  many  of  the  counties  in  this  and  the  neighboring 
States  to  give  personal  aid  in  their  incipient  stages,  and  take  part  in 
these  glorious  days,  I  find  myself  a  man  of  business,  sustaining  all 
these  personal  efforts  at  my  own  expense,  and  which  in  truth  bear 
heavily  upon  me.  However  arduous  the  voluntary  task,  1  feel  grate- 
ful to  Almighty  God  that  he  has  endowed  me  with  an  inclination  of 
mind  and  a  heart  disposed  to  be  useful  to  my  country.  I  trust  my 
descendants  will  not  find  cause  to  reproach  me  that  1  have  lived  in 
vain. 


403 


*'I  must,  however,  at  the  close  of  this  wonderful  agricultural  cam- 
paign, withdraw  from  the  line,  and  leave  younger  men  to  follow  my 
example  in  these  matters. 

"  I  feel  grateful  for  the  respect  you  have  paid  my  former  advice, 
which  I  find  published  at  large  in  the  Hartford  papers,  with  gratifica- 
tion.    [Here  follows  practical  suggestions  to  guide  their  measures.] 


"  Yours,  &c  , 


"ElKANAH   WATSOlf, ' 


404  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   KEVOLUTION  ; 


CHAPTER    XXX. 

Agricultural  Law — National  Board  of  Agriculture — Correspondence  with 
Thomas  Jefferson — Letter  from  James  Madison — Letter  from  Dr. 
Mitchell— Pattern  Farm — Tour  to  Detroit — Canal  Boat — Incident — 
Syracuse — Progress  of  Improvement — Auburn — Cayuga  Agricultural 
Society— Letter  from  Col.  Mynderse— Geneva— Canandaigua—Batavia 
— Causeway — Holland  Purchase — Pennsylvania  Wagons — Buffalo 
Harbor — Black  Eock — Gen.  Porter — Steamboat — Niagara — Ferry — 
Battle  of  Chippewa — Rapid  Falls — Battle  of  Bridgewater — Gen.  Riall 
— Anecdote — Fort  Erie — Attack. 

Upon  the  opening  of  the  session  of  the  Legislature  in 
1819,  Gov.  Clinton  reiterated,  with  augmented  force  and  ear- 
nestness, his  previous  views  upon  the  agricultural  affairs  of  the 
State.  Notwithstanding  the  powerful  influence  of  these  sug- 
gestions, sustained  by  the  zealous  and  energetic  exertions  of 
the  friends  of  the  measure,  among  whom  Mr.  Watson  was  con- 
spicuous, it  was  only  in  the  very  last  days  of  the  session  that 
an  act  was  passed  by  which  an  annual  appropriation  for  a 
limited  period,  of  810,000,  was  made  to  the  societies  of  the 
different  counties  for  the  promotion  of  agriculture  and  manu- 
factures. The  remaining  features  of  the  original  plan,  the 
institution  of  a  Pattern  Farm  and  a  Board  of  Agriculture,  were 
not  adopted. 

A  national  Board  of  Agriculture  had  been  for  many  years  a 
cherished  object  with  Mr.  Watson,  which  he  had  urged  with 
great  ardor  and  enthusiasm.  In  1816  he  prepared  a  memorial 
to  Congress  on  the  subject,  which  was  assumed  by  the  Berk- 
shire Society,  and  presented  at  their  solicitation  by  the  Hon. 
John  W.  Hurlburt,  then  representative  from  that  district. 
Although  favorably  reported  on  by  him,  as  chairman  of  a  select 
committee,  and  sustained  by  him  and  others  with  ability,  the 
project  was  overwhelmed  in  the  house  by  the  constitutional 
scruples  of  some,  by  the  views  of  expediency  of  others,  and 


OE,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  405 

bj  the  cold  and  chilling  absence  of  all  appreciation  of  the  mag- 
nitude and  importance  of  this  vital  interest. 

The  following  correspondence  of  "Mr.  Watson  with  Mr 
Jefferson  and  Mr.  Madison,  presents  interesting  view^s  enter- 
tained on  this  subject  by  these  illustrious  statesmen,  and  the 
opinion  of  the  latter  on  the  constitutional  question,  and  evinces 
the  zeal  and  unyielding  efforts  of  Mr.  Watson,  in  the  promotion 
of  his  great  purpose.  These  letters  are  only  exponents  of  an 
extensive  correspondence,  by  which  he  endeavored  to  enlist 
the  sympathies  and  to  evoke  in  aid  of  his  designs,  the  influence 
of  the  eminent  and  controlling  minds  of  .the  nation. 

"  Albany,  Jpril  24:tk. 

"  Sir  : — Accept,  sir,  my  apology  for  intruding  on  your  time,  which 
I  am  well  aware  is  sufficiently  occupied  by  an  extensive  correspon- 
dence. But  as  you  have  expressed  your  favorable  opinion  of  the 
measures  of  the  Berkshire  Society  and  my  devotion  to  the  cause  of 
agriculture,  I  am  induced  to  do  it.  The  object  of  this  letter  has  a 
direct  reference  to  the  institution  of  a  national  board  of  agriculture, 
to  be  located  at  Washington.  It  would  be  superfluous  for  me  to 
dwell  a  moment  with  you  on  the  vast  importance  of  such  an  institu- 
tion  in  a  national  point  of  view.  On  this  ground  alone  I  wish  to 
invoke  your  powerful  patronage.  Should  Mr.  Monroe  add  his 
weight  to  the  scale,  it  appears  to  me  the  plan  would  not  fliil  of  suc- 
cess, more  especially  as  Washington  in  his  inaugural  recommended 
the  measure.  That  is  the  only  instance  I  can  trace  of  a  public  notice, 
in  any  shape,  with  the  single  exception  of  a  petition  to  Congress, 
which  emanated  from  the  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society.  This 
astonishes  me,  as  it  must  be  known  to  every  intelligent  farmer  in 
America  what  numerous  advantages  have  been  derived  in  Europe, 
especially  in  France  and  England,  from  similar  institutions. 

*'  I  have  held  a  communication  with  Mr.  Madison  on  the  subject,  and 
while  he  highly  approves  the  plan,  he  expresses,  I  regret  to  say, 
some  constitutional  difficulties.  If  this  is  truly  the  case,  then  the 
object  is  worthy  of  an  eflort  to  obtain  an  amendment  of  the  constitu- 
tion to  remove  the  barrier. 

"  I  greatly  fear  that  the  objection  is  too  well-founded ;  for  Mr. 
Hurlburt,  who  sustained  the  petition  on  the  floor  of  the  house,  assured 
me  that  he  was  met  with  sneers  and  ridicule,  particularly  from 
southern  members,  for  urging  the  subject. 

"  Our  mutual  friend,  the  worthy  Gen..  Mason  of  Georgetown,  who 
attended  our  cattle  show  in  1814,  enters  warmly  into  my  views  of 
this  primary  measure,  and  has  promised  me  to  bring  his  influence  to 


406 


bear  in  promoting  the  object ;  and  I  greatly  rejoice  to  learn  also  that 
you  intend  to  sustain  it  with  zeal,  and  to  furnish  the  public  with  your 
views  on  the  subject. 

"  KespectfuUy  and  cordially, 

"E.  Watson. 
"  To  Thomas  Jefferson." 


"  MoNTiCELLO,  Sth  May,  1817. 

"  Sir  : — I  have  duly  received  your  favor  of  April  24th,  and  had  long 
remarked  the  course  and  labors  of  the  Berkshire  Society,  of  which  you 
were  President.  We  have  been  indebted  to  them  for  much  useful 
information,  and  for  the  example  they  have  set  of  zeal  in  the  most 
important  of  all  human  arts — Agriculture. 

"  About  a  dozen  years  ago  an  effort  was  made  at  Washington,  for 
the  establishment  there  of  a  General  Board  of  Agriculture,  to  which 
were  proposed  to  be  affiliated  a  secondary  Board,  in  each  State,  and 
to  this  again  subordinate  Boards  in  each  county.  The  person  most 
active  in  producing  this  institution  was  Isaac  Briggs,  who  was  Secre- 
tary, and  Mr.  Madison,  while  Secretary  of  State,  was  its  President. 
He  still,  I  believe,  possesses  the  skeleton  of  the  organization ;  but 
whether  they  ever  published  anything  or  not,  I  do  not  know. 

"  With  respect  to  myself,  you  have  been  misinformed  as  to  my 
having  any  intention  to  take  part  in  any  periodical  publication,  agri- 
cultural or  of  any  other  character.  I  know,  with  the  preacher,  '  there 
is  a  time  for  all  things  ;  a  time  to  labor,  as  well  as  cease  to  labor  ;' 
and  that  this  last  time  has  fallen  on  me  ;  daily  and  hourly  admoni- 
tions, physical  and  moral,  warn  me  to  leave  to  other  and  younger 
citizens  the  management  of  what  are  to  be  their  own  concerns,  and 
to  be  contented  with  the  share  I  have  had  with  those  of  my  own 
day. 

"  I  submit  to  these  monitions  the  more  willingly,  as  they  favor  that 
rest  and  quiet,  which  the  increasing  debility  of  age  calls  for,  and  have 
therefore  to  offer  only  my  prayers  for  success  to  the  efforts  of  others, 
and  praise  to  those  engaged  in  them,  among  whom  I  distinguished 
yourself,  and  to  whom  I  particularly  address  the  assurance  of  my 
great  respect. 

"Th.  Jefferson. 

"  Mr.  Elkanah  Watson." 


"MoNTPELiER,  March  18. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  Sth  inst.,  accom- 
panied by  your  communications  to  Mr,  Skinner,  on  the  subject  of  a 
National  Board  of  Agriculture. 

"  1  have  never  taken  into  particular  consideration  the  expediency, 
or  the  best  plan  of  such  an  institution  ;  being  among  those  who  do 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  407 

not  view  it  as  within  the  powers  vested  in  the  General  Government.* 
If  the  power  existed,  Mr.  Skinner  is  probably  right  in  supposing  the 
public  mind  is  not  yet  prepared  for  the  exercise  of  it.  The  experi- 
ments making  in  several  of  the  States  will  doubtless  throw  light  on 
the  utility  of  Agricultural  Boards,  instituted  and  endowed  by  public 
authority,  and  it  is  to  be  wished  that  the  experiment  will  be  fully  and 
sufficiently  made. 

"  Though  not  concurring  in  the  opinion  you  entertain,  I  do  full  jus- 
tice to  the  patriotic  zeal  of  which  you  give  such  steady  proofs  in  be- 
half of  the  art,  which,  more  than  any  other,  is  the  basis  of  individual 
comfort  and  national  prosperity. 

"  I  thank  you  for  the  Neapolitan  Cabbage  Seed,  kindly  spared 
from  your  small  stock.  Proper  use  will  be  made  of  it,  with  a  view 
both  to  its  preservation  and  diffusion. 

"  Be  pleased  to  accept  my  thanks  and  friendly  respects, 

"James  Madisojt. 

"  Mr.  Watson." 

The  annexed  letter  from  Dr.  Mitchell,  characteristic  of  his 

eccentric  but  philosophical  mind,  I  select  from  a  large  number 

of  similar  tributes  from  eminent  men,  to  the  patriotic  services 

of  Mr.  Watson,  received  at  the  period   when  his  efforts  were 

peculiarly  devoted  to  the  organization  of  Agricultural  Societies, 

and  the  advancement  of  the  general  agricultural  interests  of 

the  State. 

"  New- York,  April  28th,  1819. 
"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq.  : 

"  My  Dear  Sir  : — During  my  last  visit  to  Albany,  as  a  solicitor  of 
an  endowment  for  the  benefit  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  from  the  Le- 
gislature, I  had  the  pleasure  of  spending  an  evening  with  you  at  the 
Mayor's.  I  hailed  you  as  '  Grand  Agricola;'  I  also  said  to  you  that 
as  Robert  R.  Livingston,  my  late  invaluable  friend,  and  a  benefactor 
of  the  human  race,  had  been  called  by  our  Supreme  Master  from 
labor  to  rest,  the  wheaten  crown,  which  he  had  so  honorably  and 
so  usefully  worn,  had  devolved  to  you  ;  at  the  same  time  I  raised  my 
hands  over  your  head,  and  seemed,  as  it  were,  to  perform  the  cere- 
monial of  decorating  your  temples  with  the  wreath  of  Ceres.  As 
this  ceremony  was  performed  unnoticed  by  you,  you  could  not  ob- 
serve as  well  as  I  did  the  effect  this  coronation  had  upon  the  ladies. 
They  sympathized,  and  well  they  might,  in  this  land  of  Democracy 
and  Christianity,  truly  the  woman's  paradise. 

*  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  referring  to  Mr.  Madison,  was  either  mistaken  in  the  fact, 
or  more  probably  the  institution  to  which  he  alludes,  was  a  private  organiza- 
tion.— [Editor. 


408  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


"  I  write  this  note  for  the  purpose  of  acknowledging  the  receipt  of 
your  Spanish  Wheat,*  and  of  the  copy  of  your  letter  to  G.  W,  Jef- 
freys, Esq.,  of  North  Carolina,  on  the  history  of  the  Berkshire  Agri- 
cultural Society,  an  excellent  model  for  all  similar  institutions  to 
work  by.  My  numerous  occupations  since  my  return  home  have 
prevented  me  from  taking  any  steps  to  form  a  Society  for  this  county, 
for  claiming  the  $650,  appropriated  to  it  by  the  law.  As  far  as  I  can 
discover,  the  citizens  who  have  any  feeling  or  concern  about  it  are 
very  few,  and  even  they  seem  to  think  the  conditions  foo  hard.  Some 
further  excitement  is  wanted,  and  I  know  not  who  among  us  shall 
give  it.  Some  monitor  like  yourself,  perhaps,  may  correct  the  exist- 
ing error,  and  instil  better  notions. 

"Accept  the  assurances  of  my  respect. 

"  Saml.  L.  Mitchell." 

I  have  already  remarked  that  the  scheme  of  a ''  Pattern  Farm'* 
was  among  the  favorite  projects  embraced  in  the  conceptions 
of  Mr.  Watson,  for  the  promotion  of  the  agricultural  interests 
of  the  State.  His  vievi^s  are  embodied  in  the  following  expo- 
sition of  his  plan  on  that  subject,  and  will  be  read,  I  tiiink,  with 
interest  by  the  large  and  intelligent  class  of  citizens,  who  now 
are  enlisted  in  the  same  patriotic  cause.  The  design  still  lin- 
gers in  the  minds  and  purposes  of  the  friends  of  agricultural 
science,  but  has  not  received  that  consummation  he  so  earn- 
estly antic'pated. 

"  We  will  suppose  a  farm,  containing  from  one  hundred  to 
two  hundred  acres  of  land,  in  the  vicinity  of  Albany,  to  belong 
to  the  State,  under  the  direction  of  a  Board  of  Agriculture, 
and  containing  a  variety  of  soil,  and  a  permanent  flowing 
stream  of  water.  On  this  farm  we  will  suppose  erected  suit- 
able buildings  to  accommodate  one  hundred  persons,  and  several 
work-shops,  for  the  construction  of  farming  utensils.  Place 
this  establishment  under  the  superintendence  of  a  Professor  of 
Agriculture,  with  suitable  assistants ;  here  to  be  deposited 
plants,  shrubs,  grain,  trees,  &c.,  to  undergo  experiments  to  es- 
tablish their  congeniality  to  our  soil  and  climate.  Here,  also, 
the  best  improved  implements  of  husbandry  will  be  introduced 

*  This  was  a  specimen  of  the  wheat  received  from  Spain,  in  response  to  my 
Circular,  from  O.  Rich,  Esq.,  American  Consul  at  Valencia. — [Mem.  E.  Wat- 
sorCs  Letter. 


OE,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  409 

and  made  :  new  inventions  will  be  tested,  and  models  of  such 
as  shall  deserve  a  preference  will  be  sent  to  the  County  Socie- 
ties. Also  the  best  plans  for  rural  architects  ;  the  best  season 
for  sowing  crops  tested  by  experiments, — the  most  approved 
fences,  and  the  best  kind  of  domestic  animals,  will  all  come 
within  the  duties  of  this  important  institution  ;  as  well  as  ex- 
periments on  manures,  the  best  method  of  creating  and  pre- 
serving them.  In  a  word,  all  that  relates  to  practical  hus- 
bandry, in  connection  with  chemistry,  horticulture,  botany, 
and  mineralogy.  The  most  useful  part  of  the  system  will  be 
the  education  of  twenty  young  men  at  the  expense  of  the 
Agricultural  Fund.  The  selection  to  be  made  on  the  recom- 
mendation of  the  Presidents  of  the  County  Agricultural  Socie- 
ties, from  the  four  great  political  divisions  of  the  State.  These 
students  to  be  formed  into  classes,  and  taught  agriculture,  in 
all  its  branches,  as  well  in  theory  as  in  practice.  They  must, 
however,  severally  engage  to  labor  on  said  farm  as  practical 
farmers,  at  least  three  hours  in  each  day,  when  so  required  by 
the  professor,  and  to  conform,  in  all  respects,  to  the  rules  and 
ordinances  of  said  Institution.  Let  it  be  made  the  duty  of 
these  students  to  be  attached  the  ensuing  year  to  some  respect- 
able academy  or  school,  in  their  respective  districts,  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  county  societies.  In  these  subordinate 
schools  let  the  youth  be  furnished  with  some  cheap  books  on 
the  first  elements  of  agriculture  and  chemistry,  adapted  to 
their  capacities,  and  taught  as  a  branch  of  their  education. 

"  However  desirable  the  institution  cf  a  Pattern  Farm,  on  a 
scale  commensurate  with  the  importance  of  the  object,  yet  it 
is  evident  the  period  of  its  establishment  is  remote.  Probably 
it  will  not  be  attempted  till  the  grand  canals  shall  pour  into  the 
lap  of  our  treasury  overflowing  means  to  support  it.  Besides, 
our  agricultural  societies  are  yet  in  their  infancy.  They  must 
gradually  approach  a  sufficient  state  of  maturity,  to  give  a 
tone,  and  carry  conviction  home  to  the  public  mind,  that  such 
a  system  will  be  an  important  auxiliary  in  perfecting  the  sci- 
ence of  agriculture,  in  co-operation  with  the  county  societies. 
When  our  descendants  shall  reach  that  important  era,  every 


410  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EE VOLUTION  ; 

reflecting  mind  will  readily  perceive  the  incalculable  benefits  of 
such  an  institution  ;  especially  should  the  State  be  divided  into 
ten  agricultural  districts,  and  a  branch  be  established  in  each, 
under  the  superintendence  of  men  who  shall  have  been  edu- 
cated at  least  for  one  or  tvi^o  years  at  the  primary  institution. 
In  the  process  of  time,  under  the  operation  of  this  benign  sys- 
tem, (and  I  hazard  nothing  in  venturing  a  prophecy  that  it  will 
take  place,)  the  great  mass  of  our  citizens  will  become  scien- 
tific farmers." 

At  this  epoch  the  more  public  and  active  agency  of  Mr. 
Watson  in  the  organization  of  these  Societies,  and  in  the  pro- 
mulgation of  agricultural  science,  terminated,  although  his 
deep  solicitude  for  the  successful  development  of  the  great  in- 
terests of  agriculture  was  never  diminished.  A  devotion  to 
other  objects  of  public  improvement,  excited  the  feelings  and 
occupied  the  attention  of  his  closing  years. 

In  the  year  1818  he  made  a  Western  Tour,  which  extended 
into  the  then  remote  territory  of  Michigan,  to  gratify  his  curi- 
osity by  a  personal  inspection  of  the  character  and  resources  of 
the  new  regions  which  were  washed  by  the  waters  of  Lake 
Erie,  and  to  shed  a  tear  upon  the  recent  grave  of  a  beloved 
daughter.  This  journey  at  that  period  was  arduous,  and  sur- 
rounded by  exposures  and  trial. 

I  compile  from  his  very  copious  Journal  a  brief  summary  of 
the  incidents  and  observations  he  records.  In  a  preliminary 
notice,  attached  to  a  transcript  of  his  original  manuscript  of 
this  Journal,  he  remarks  : — "  The  last  and  most  interesting  of 
all  my  journals  of  travels,  through  a  period  of  forty-one  years, 
and  this  made  at  the  age  of  threescore.  I  commenced  the 
habit  of  journalizing  in  1777,  when  nineteen,  and  have  pre- 
served the  practice  habitually  up  to  the  present  day.  I  was 
prompted  to  the  relation  of  scenes  of  adventure  and  ludicrous 
incident,  from  the  impression  made  on  my  mind  when  a  boy 
by  reading  Roderic  Random,  the  inimitable  production  of 
Smollet. 

'^  Jane  Sd,  1818. — It  had  rained  incessantly  for  several  weeks 
previous  to  my  departure   from   Albany,  on  my  journey   to 


OK,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON".  411 


Detroit.  After  a  long  and  dreary  winter,  all  nature  was  still 
enshrouded  in  mourning.  Tiiis  morning  the  rain  ceased,  the 
dove  has  gone  forth,  and  the  earth  appears  once  more  glowing 
beneath  the  genial  rays  of  grateful  sunbeams. 

"  On  the  7th  June  I  left  the  village  of  Manlius,  as  well  for  the 
purpose  of  viewing  the  canal  as  to  accept  an  invitation  to  an  ex- 
cursion upon  the  first  packet-boat  on  her  preliminary  trip.  I 
found  lads  and  lasses,  old  and  young,  pouring  in  from  all  quarters, 
to  profit  by  the  same  invitation.  It  began  to  rain  as  I  arrived, 
and  we  all  pressed  into  the  long  narrow  cabin,  packed  to  its 
greatest  capacity.  In  a  short  time,  however,  the  shower 
abated,  the  artillery  of  heaven  ceased  its  incessant  and  terrific 
peals,  the  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  disappeared.  -Who,  in  the 
contemplation  of  such  a  scene,  can  restrain  a  solemn  and  dread 
reverence  for  the  Almighty  power  that  wields  and  directs  this 
terrific  agency.  Although  philosophy  assures  us  it  results  from 
natural  causes,  well  known  and  fully  developed,  yet  there  is 
nothing  so  deeply  calculated  to  make  poor,  proud,  insignificant, 
pigmy  man  feel  his  nothingness  and  impotency,  as  when  assail- 
ed by  the  thunderbolts  of  Heaven. 

"  As  soon  as  the  rain  ceased,  the  cabin  began  to  disgorge  its 
load.  The  gallant  swains  handed  up  their  lasses  and  spread 
the  deck  with  chairs  and  benches,  which  were  filled  by  a  happy> 
joyous  crowd,  full  of  life  and  hilarity.  I  had  observed  some 
distance  in  advance  a  bridge  that  seemed  unusually  low,  and 
watched  our  rapid  approach  to  it  with  some  anxiety,  although 
relieved  from  apprehension  by  the  feeling  that  the  officers  of 
the  boat  knew  and  would  discharge  their  duty  in  watching  the 
safety  of  the  passengers.  My  alarm  and  agitation  increased  to 
the  utmost  intensity  when  I  perceived  that  we  were  only  two 
or  three  rods  from  the  bridge,  that  no  notice  was  taken  of  the 
danger,  and  that  inevitable  destruction  was  impending  over 
the  whole  happy  and  unsuspicious  mass.  I  cried  out  in  the 
highest  pitch  of  my  voice — "Down!  down — off"  the  deck!'* 
Fortunately  the  boat  had  a  considerable  space  between  the 
cabin  and  the  gunwale,  and  into  these  gangways  the  greatest 
proportion  precipitated  themselves,  while  the  rest  tumbled  into 


412  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


promiscuous  heaps  in  the  narrow  spaces  at  the  bow  and  stern. 
In  another  instant  the  chairs  and  benches  were  crushed  into 
atoms  with  a  tremendous  crash,  the  fragments  flying  in  every 
direction.  To  the  astonishment  of  us  all,  upon  regaining  our 
feet,  after  the  passage  of  the  bridge,  we  found  that  not  a  per- 
son had  been  injured.  It  turned  out  that  the  captain  was 
engaged  in  administering  at  his  bar,  and  that  the  hehnsman 
was  an  ignorant  novice. 

"  At  Syracuse  I  resumed  my  carriage.  It  was  impossible 
for  me  to  contemplate  Syracuse,  Sahna  and  Liverpool,  all 
thriving  villages  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  Onondaga  Lake, 
and  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  salt,  of  which  they  produce 
nearly  a  million  of  bushels  annually,  and  not  recur  to  my  ex- 
pedition by  water,  thirty-seven  years  ago,  to  this  same  lake. 
What  a  transition!  The  country  was  then  in  its  primeval 
condition,  roamed  over  by  savage  tribes,  and  only  occupied 
here  and  there  bj  scattered  white  inhabitants.  No  roads 
existed,  and  not  even  a  gristmill  west  of  the  German  Flats. 
Behold  now,  as  it  were,  an  old  country,  possessed  by  a  vigor- 
ous and  intelligent  population,  fine  turnpike  roads,  prosperous 
villages  and  large  and  beautiful  towns,  numerous  stage-coaches 
all  plying  in  every  direction  in  the  midst  of  elegant  and  com- 
modious farm-houses,  excellent  and  highly  cultivated  farms? 
matured  orchards,  and  above  all,  the  Erie  canal  in  active  pro- 
gression, with  fifteen  hundred  men  at  work  in  its  construction 
within  sixty  miles  of  this  place,  and  splendid  packet-boats 
already  building  for  the  transportation  of  passengers  from 
Lake  Erie  to  the  Hudson.  Inexhaustible  beds  of  gypsum  are 
revealed  here,  which  will  tend  to  stimulate  the  advancing  im- 
provements in  agriculture. 

"  I  was  detained  at  Auburn  a  day  or  two  by  urgent  solicita- 
tion, to  aid  in  the  formation  of  the  Cayuga  Agricultural  Society, 
and  delivered  an  address  on  the  subject.  When  I  was  at  this 
place  in  1802,  it  contained  four  or  five  dwellings  and  a  saw- 
mill. It  now  embraces  two  thousand  five  hundred  inhabitants, 
several  spacious  churches  and  other  public  edifices. 

"  While  sojourning  at  Seneca  Falls,  under  the  hospitable  roof 


413 


of  my  noble  friend,  Col.  Mynderse,  noble  in  person,  in  heart  and 
mind,  I  was  peculiarly  fortunate  in  witnessing  the  transit  of 
the  first  canal  boat,  which  passed  the  canal  and  locks  at  this 
place  just  completed  by  private  enterprise.  Col.  Mynderse 
has  resided  at  this  place  since  1792,  and  erected  here  the  first 
flouring  mill  in  the  western  country.  As  no  person  can 
furnish  more  correct  and  intelligent  information  of  the  progress 
and  existing  condition  of  this  interesting  and  salient  region 
since  that  period,  and  especially  of  the  effects  of  the  canals, 
constructed  under  the  act  of  1792,  I  solicited  him  to  furnish 
me  a  statement  on  these  subjects.  The  letter  below  which 
he  addressed  to  me,  I  received  while  on  my  western  tour. 

"Seneca  Falls,  17^7i  June^  1818. 

"My  Dear  Sir: — In  pursuance  of  my  promise,  I  now  transmit 
to  you  the  following  authentic  statement  of  facts.  Previous  to  the 
construction  of  the  canals  and  locks  on  the  Mohawk  river  and  Wood 
Creek,  transportation  was  done  in  bateaux  from  one  to  two  tons 
burthen.  These  requh-ed  four  hands  to  navigate  them.  The  price  of 
transportation  at  that  time  was  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred 
dollars  per  ton  from  Schenectady  to  this  place,  a  distance  of  two  hun- 
dred and  twelve  miles.  Since  the  completion  of  the  aforesaid  canals, 
boats  of  a  different  construction  have  been  introduced,  capable  of 
carrying  fifteen  or  sixteen  tons,  and  requiring  but  one  additional 
hand  to  work  thera.  The  charges  for  transportation  have  been 
greatly  reduced,  notwithstanding  the  high  tolls  charged  on  passing 
the  canals  and  locks,  viz:  about  four  dollars  on  each  boat,  and  five 
dollars  a  ton  on  cargo,  being  about  seventeen  dollars  per  ton  from 
this  to  Schenectady,  and  nearly  that  sum  from  thence  here.  Although 
these  valuable  improvements  in  the  navigation  of  the  Mohawk  river 
and  Wood  Creek  have  been  vastly  beneficial  to  this  part  of  the 
State,  yet  it  is  believed  that  proportionably  greater  advantages  will 
yet  result,  on  the  completion  of  the  middle  section  of  the  grand 
canal  now  constructing  between  the  Seneca  and  Mohawk  rivers.  I 
think  it  may  be  safely  estimated  that  the  transportation  will  undergo 
a  second  reduction  of  40  per  cent. 

"I  am,  with  great  esteem,  your  sincere  friend, 

"  WiLHELMus  Mynderse. 

"Elkanah  Watson." 

"  I  arrived  on  the  17th  inst.  at  the  refined  and  delisihted  villacre 
of  Geneva.  In  '91  I  found  here  a  few  log  huts  scattered 
along  the  slope  of  a  hill,  inhabited  by  a  gang  of  lawless  adven- 


414  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

turers,  who  were  prostrated  by  the  fever  and  ague.  The  place 
was  then  notoriously  unhealthy,  from  the  proximity  of  an  ex- 
tensive marsh.  It  is  now  not  only  an  elegant  but  a  salubri- 
ous village,  and  distinguished  for  the  refinement  and  elevated 
character  of  its  society. 

"Canandaigua  is  a  considerable  village,  containing  many 
splendid  residences,  and  a  wealthy  and  genteel  population. 
Here  resides  Gideon  Granger,  the  late  Post-Master  General, 
and  eminent  for  his  lofty  and  diversified  intellectual  endow- 
ments. The  territory  between  Geneva  and  Canandaigua  is 
well-settled  and  the  soil  superior,  but  upon  the  whole  I  was 
disappointed  in  the  general  appearance  and  progress  of  the 
far-famed  county  of  Ontario. 

"We  forded  for  a  short  distance  the  north  end  of  Canandaigua 
Lake,  and  travelled  on  its  beach.  This  lake  is  distinguished 
for  its  choice  fish.  The  public  hotel  was  bad,  the  bouse  full, 
and  myself,  at  the  age  of  sixty,  compelled  to  lie  upon  a  buffalo 
robe  in  the  third  story,  in  place  of  a  bed. 

"  The  Genesee  Flats  were  nearly  impassable  from  the  late 
rains.  Batavia  is  a  considerable  town  situated  upon  the 
Tonewanda  Creek.  At  this  place  resides  the  agent  of  the  Hol- 
land Land  Company.  What  a  mistaken  policy  in  the  govern- 
ment of  New- York,  to  yield  so  many  millions  of  acres, 
embracing  an  area  sufficient  to  constitute  a  sovereign  State, 
of  the  choicest  land  on  the  continent,  to  Massachusetts,  to 
compromise  an  ambiguous  claim,  which  rested  alone  on  an 
antiquated  charter,  which  stretched  to  the  South  Sea,  or 
Heaven  knows  where. 

"  Massachusetts  sold  to  Robert  Morris,  of  Philadelphia,  and 
he  transferred  his  title  to  Sir  William  Poultney  and  other 
speculators  in  Holland  and  England.  Thus  has  this  fake 
measure  entailed  upon  the  inhabitants  of  a  vast  domain  a 
tributary  vassalage  to  foreign  proprietors. 

"  1  was  greatly  impeded  on  my  way,  in  being  obliged  to 
traverse  a  long  and  rough  causeway,  three  miles  in  length, 
and  in  a  wretched  condition.  To  add  to  the  annoyance  and 
vexation,  several  six-horse  teams  were  ahead  of  us,  travelling 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  415 

at  a  snail's  pace.  We  were  unable  from  the  narrowness  of 
the  track  to  pass  for  three  hours,  and  1  had  no  alternative  but 
patience  and  submission.  Oh  for  the  completion  of  the  canals, 
when  these  terrible  Pennsylvanian  wagons  will  disappear.* 

"  On  the  21st  I  reached  Buffalo.  About  a  mile  distant  from 
the  village,  on  ascending  the  summit  of  a  hill,  my  eyes  were 
greeted  for  the  first  time  with  the  glorious  sight  of  Lake 
Erie,  spreading  like  an  ocean  before  me,  and  Buffalo  in  full 
view.  This  forms  one  of  the  links  in  the  great  chain  of  lakes 
and  inland  seas,  compared  with  which  nothing,  as  a  water 
communication,  on  the  surface  of  the  globe,  deserves  to  be 
mentioned.  The  works  of  nature  in  America  were  arranoed 
at  creation,  by  the  Grand  Architect  of  the  universe,  on  a 
scale  of  grandeur  and  magnificence  worthy  His  omnipotence. 

"  The  first  view  of  Buffalo,  spreading  over  an  extended  area, 
is  highly  imposing.  I  remained  some  days  in  this  viflage.  Its 
commerce  at  this  juncture  appears  in  a  depressed  state,  and  in 
course,  the  merchants  are  languishing  and  tottering.  The  creek 
on  which  Buffalo  stands  is  bold,  but  its  outlet  is  too  shallow  to 
admit  vessels  of  heavy  burthen.     Previous  to  the  erection  of 

*  These  nondescript  instruments  of  commerce  of  a  past  age  are  almost  forgot- 
ten, and  will  scarcely  be  recalled  in  the  traditions  of  another  generation.  Before 
the  construction  of  the  Erie  canal,  they  formed  nearly  the  exclusive  mode  of 
transportation  between  Buffalo  and  the  Hudson.  The  exception  was  chiefly  the 
limited  communication  by  the  Mohawk.  I  recollect  them  as  they  now  appear  in 
the  memory  of  my  boyhood,  as  huge  machines  with  almost  the  capacity  of  a 
small  canal  boat,  of  great  length,  and  formed  with  elevated  sides,  arched  over  by  a 
lofty  canvass  top,  heavily  built  and  of  great  strength.  They  rested  upon  large 
and  ponderous  wheels,  with  tires  six  or  eight  inches  wide.  These  wagons  were 
drawn  by  teams  of  three  or  four  spans  of  powerful  Pennsylvanian  horses,  whose 
harnesses  were  often  surmounted  by  little  towers  bearing  small  bells.  The  driver, 
always  happy,  gay,  and  light-hearted,  sometimes  occupied  a  lofty  seat,  but 
usually  rode  upon  one  of  the  horses,  guiding  his  team  by  the  voice  and  a  single 
rein.  They  made  regular  trips  to  Buffalo,  or  upon  some  fixed  intermediate  route 
Their  rendezvous  in  Albany  was  at  the  innumerable  little  taverns  which  were 
established  in  Washington  street  for  their  peculiar  benefit,  and  where  these 
vehicles  were  often  collected  in  great  numbers.  These  wagons  asserted  and 
usually  maintained  the  road  against  all  other  vehicles.  If  the  Camel  may  be 
described  af  "the  ship  of  the  desert,"  these  wagons  might  have  been  regarded 
as  the  ships  of  our  inland  commerce. — [Editor. 


416  MEN"  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION  ; 

.  the  double  pier  which  was  subsequently  constructed,  all  large 
vessels  were  compelled  to  lay  off,  exposed  to  the  open  lake  at 
anchor,  and  there  in  the  most  unprotected  and  inconvenient 
manner  receive  and  discharge  their  cargoes. 

"On  the  morning  of  the  22d  June  I  started  with  a  young 
English  traveller  to  visit  Niagara  Falls.  From  my  earliest 
recollections  as  a  traveller,  I  have  indulged  the  hope  of  being 
able  to  gratify  my  ardent  desire  of  seeing  this  stupendous  dis- 
play of  nature.  In  this  latter  day  the  wilderness  has  been 
opened,  and  I  am  unexpectedly  allowed  the  privilege.  We 
reached,  after  a  ride  of  three  miles,  the  residence  of  my  friend 
Gen.  Porter,  at  Black  Rock,  who  was  highly  distinguished  on 
this  immediate  theatre  during  the  last  war,  valiantly  fighting 
in  almost  the  literal  defence  of  his  own  altar  and  fireside.  His 
residence,  a  few  stores  and  houses,  and  a  new  steamboat  now 
building  to  ply  the  next  season  on  Lake  Erie,  are  the  only 
prominent  features  of  Black  Rock,  the  proposed  rival  of  Buffalo. 
Here  we  crossed  the  Niagara  in  a  small  flat  scow.  The 
stream  hastening  towards  the  great  cataract  runs  with  a 
rapid  current.  I  entered  Canada  for  the  first  time,  and  after  a 
lapse  of  thirty-four  years,  again  stood  on  British  ground.  The 
roads  running  parallel  to  the  river  were  excellent  and  pleasant, 
the  soil  good,  but  in  wretched  cultivation,  with  poor  dwellings, 
barns,  and  out-buildings. 

"  Two  miles  west  of  Chippewa  we  stopped  to  contemplate 
the  battle  ground  of  the  5th  July,  1814.  At  the  entrance  of 
the  Chippewa  plain,  my  guide  pointed  out  a  ditch  in  which  the 
bones  of  the  American  and  British  are  promiscuously  mingling 
with  their  mother  earth,  in  close  affinity.  It  is  considered  by 
military  men  that  this  was  an  ably-conducted  and  hard-fought 
battle.  Our  terrific  riflemen  greatly  annoyed  the  British  from 
a  small  hamlet  on  our  left.  On  descending  from  our  wagon, 
to  walk  over  the  field  of  Chippewa,  I  distinctly  heard  the  roar 
of  Niagara,  and  saw  a  mist  rising  in  a  thick  white  exhalation, 
indicating  the  position  of  the  cascade.  We  crossed  a  bridge 
over  Chippewa  River,  and  on  the  opposite  side  passed  through 
the  remains  of  an  entrenchment,  which  favored  the  retreat  of 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  417 

Biall,  and  checked  Brown's  pursuit.  A  few  miles  beyond  this, 
my  feelings  were  strongly  excited  to  find  that  we  had  reached 
the  very  edge  of  a  turbulent  rapid,  the  river  in  violent  agita- 
tion, and  rushing  madly  forward  to  its  frightful  leap.  With 
the  purpose  of  examining  the  rapid,  itself  an  impressive  object, 
to  more  advantage,  we  sent  the  wagon  on,  supposing  from 
the  appearance  that  this  point  was  only  a  short  distance  from 
the  Falls.  It  was  a  great  disappointment,  however,  when  too 
late,  to  ascertain  that  a  deep  curve  in  the  river,  which  we 
were  obliged  to  follow,  and  then  a  long  walk  to  Forsith's, 
made  a  distance  of  three  miles.  We  floundered  through  in 
deep  mud  and  darkness,  overwhelmed  by  fatigue. 

"  The  ensuing  morning  we  were  enveloped  in  a  dense  fog. 
The  roaring  of  the  tremendous  cataract  had  been  in  our  ears 
all  night,  and  at  an  early  hour  we  stood  upon  Table  Rock,  gaz- 
ing at  the  wonderful  and  awful  scene — an  astounding  display 
of  Almighty  power. 

"  The  Falls  have  been  so  often  delineated  by  the  poet,  the 
painter,  and  the  pen  of  eloquence,  that  I  shrink  from  an  at- 
tempt at  a  description.  My  mind  had  been  wrought  up  to 
such  a  point  in  anticipation,  that  I  confess  myself  disappointed 
in  the  magnificence  and  grandeur  of  the  spectacle.  Fatigue 
and  indisposition  from  the  exposure  of  last  night  possibly  had 
an  influence  upon  my  feelings. 

"  We  proceeded  the  next  morning,  guided  by  Forsith,  to  ex* 
amine  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Bridgewater.  It  commenced 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  his  house,  which  was  riddled  by 
the  cannon  balls.  What  a  theatre  for  a  mighty  battle-field  ! 
What  a  scene  for  man  to  exhibit  his  passions  and  conflicts, — - 
upon  the  threshold  of  such  a  demonstration  of  the  wonderful 
and  almighty  works  of  God  ! 

"  After  passing  a  piece  of  woodland  the  country  is  open,  and 
here  the  murderous  and  unprofitable  night  conflict  occurred. 
The  American  army  was  commanded  by  the  self-taught,  half- 
Quaker  soldier,  the  gallant  Brown ;  the  British  by  Riall,  and  at 
the  conclusion  of  the  battle  by  Drummond,  both  experienced 
and  accomplished  commanders. 

27 


418 


"  Accident  commenced  the  work  of  death  ;  each  party  was 
reinforced  in  succession,  after  the  manner  of  the  battle  of 
Stillwater,  in  1777 ;  neither  would  yield  the  palm,  and  hence 
a  most  sanguinary  carnage,  in  one  of  the  severest  and  most 
closely-contested  conflicts  in  the  annals  of  war. 

"  I  was  conducted  to  all  the  interesting  points  of  attack  and 
defence.  From  the  fatal  summit  of  Lundy's  Lane  the  British 
artillery  poured  a  destructive  fire  upon  the  American  troops, 
and  here  the  gallant  Miller,  always  in  the  hottest  of  the  fight, 
charged,  and  secured  their  guns.  I  contemplated  the  whole 
field  from  this  elevation.  The  shattered  trees  everywhere  tell 
the  woful  tale.  I  picked  up  on  the  surface  fragments  of  muskets, 
bullets,  &c.,  and  was  shown  the  calcined  bones  of  Americans, 
whose  bodies  had  been  barbarously  burnt  in  a  pile,  formed  by 
a  layer  of  rails,  and  then  the  corpses  of  officers  and  soldiers 
in  succession.  My  blood  chilled  at  the  horrid  sight,  and  I 
could  not  restrain  my  indignant  feelings  in  the  presence  of 
several  Englishmen,  who  justified  the  act  on  the  score  of  re- 
taliation, alleging  that  the  Americans  had  given  the  example. 
The  correctness  of  the  assertion  I  doubted,  and  could  never 
ascertain  the  existence  of  such  a  fact. 

"  Gen.  Riall  was  severely  wounded  by  a  ball  through  his 
shoulder  at  Bridgewater,  and  was  taken  prisoner.  He  was 
conducted  to  Pittsfield  a  prisoner  of  war,  and  there  I  became 
intimately  acquainted  with  him.  He  w^as  an  Irishman  by 
birth,  and  a  soldier  of  distinguished  courage.  Gen.  Riall  often 
conversed  with  me  freely  on  the  subject  of  this  battle,  and 
communicated  the  following  anecdote  to  me.  He  said  that 
after  being  wounded  he  withdrew  to  the  rear,  in  great  anguish, 
as  he  supposed  to  a  place  of  safety ;  but,  to  his  great  astonish- 
ment, he  was  captured  by  a  troop  of  American  horse,  who  had 
boldly  gained  his  rear  by  a  circuitous  march.  Inquiring  the 
name  of  his  captor,  the  reply  was,  Capt.  Ketchum.  '  Well 
named,  well  named,  Captain,'  was  Riall's  response ;  *  for  you 
have  truly  catch'em — the  British  commanding  general'  We 
proceeded,  on  our  return  to  Buffalo,  by  the  way  of  Fort  Erie. 
-England  will  long  remember  the  fatal  night  tragedy  at  this  for- 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON^.  419 

tress,  where,  in  an  unsuccessful  assault,  they  lost  from  six  to 
eight  hundred  men  ;  while,  strange  as  it  appears,  the  killed  of 
the  garrison  did  not  exceed  twenty-six.  Two  long  ditches 
were  pointed  out  to  me  by  an  American  officer,  who  was  in 
the  engagement,  in  which  the  severest  of  the  British  loss  occur- 
red. Here  the  merciless  Col.  Drummond  was  killed,  while 
shouting  to  his  men,  "  Give  the  d d  Yankees  no  quarter !" 


420  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 


CHAPTER     XXXI. 


Voyage  up  Lake  Erie — Discomforts — Land  at  Erie — Harbour — Perry's 
Fleet — Hulks — His  Victory — Influence  and  Nature  of  it — Anecdote  of 
Ship  Lawrence — Constitution  and  Java — Gen.  Hyslop's  Testimony — 
Plan  for  Improving  the  Harbor — Old  French  Fort — Gen.  Wayne — 
Grand  River — Cleaveland — Harbor — Storm — ^ Archipelago  of  the  West 
— Put-in-Bay — Detroit  River — Detroit,  4th  July — View  of  Lake  Erie — 
Anticipated  Progress — Description  of  Detroit — River  and  Islands — 
Wretched  Agriculture — Face  of  the  Country — Explorations — Wolves — 
Old  Orchard — Indians — Disgusting  Scenes — HulFs  Surrender — Return 
Voyage — Reflections  and  Anticipations  on  Michigan. 

"  On  the  23d  we  made  our  arrangements  for  a  passage  on 
board  the  schooner  Franklin,  for  Detroit.  She  was  lying  at 
anchor  abreast  of  the  town,  in  the  open  lake.  With  a  select 
party  of  friends  I  had  secm^ed  the  little  cabin,  and  had  the  as- 
surance of  the  captain  that  he  would  provide  us  with  an 
ample  supply  of  sea  stores.  I  observed  boat  after  boat,  during 
the  evening,  conveying  passengers  to  the  vessel,  and  on  reach- 
ing her  in  the  dark,  and  excessive  heat,  \saw  to  my  conster- 
nation, that  our  cabin  was  filled  by  a  promiscuous  crowd. 
My  first  impulse  was  to  return  to  the  shore,  hut  the  darkness 
and  the  increasing  wind,  and  the  vessel  in  the  a)Qt  of  starting, 
induced  me  to  submit  to  my  destiny.  ~~--- 

*'  We  weighed  anchor,  the  wind  dead  ahead,  and  rising.  Oui 
vessel  soon  began  to  tumble  and  toss,  beating  against  a  head 
sea,  the  children  squalling  and  cascading  in  concert  with  their 
mothers,  and  all  involved  in  Egyptian  darkness,  sullen  and  sea- 
sick. Thus  passed  the  first  comfortless  night,  and  three  suc- 
ceeding days  and  nights.  Sometimes  a  calm,  and  our  sails 
flapping  against  the  masts,  then  light  squalls,  and  again  stiff 
breezes,  always  ahead.     Our  fare  was  horrible  after  the  second 


421 


day,  consisting  wholly  of  yellow  Ohio  pork  and  hard  peas,*  as 
soft  as  boiled  shot. 

"On  the  fourth  morning  we  dropped  anchor  just  without  the 
bar  of  Erie,  in  the  open  road,  and  exposed  to  the  rake  of  the 
sea.  These  last  three  days  have  been  the  most  trying  and  dis- 
agreeable I  have  encountered  in  all  my  travels.  We  were 
put  ashore,  and  reached  the  town  about  nine  o'clock.  I  never 
enjoyed  so  fully  the  comforts  of  a  good  tavern,  an  excellent 
breakfast,  a  shaven  face,  and  clean  linen.  We  looked  like  so 
many  Robinson  Crusoes,  as  we  traversed  the  streets  of  Erie* 
dirty,  haggard,  half-starved,  and  with  beards  of  a  startling 
length.  This  transition  soon  made  us  forget  our  troubles,  like 
other  sailors,  and  we  spent  the  day  in  viewing  the  town,  its 
vicinity.  Perry's  fleet,  and  the  vanquished  British  ships  in  the 
outer  harbor. 

"  Erie  is  pleasantly  situated,  ninety  miles  south-west  from  Buf- 
falo, on  a  plain  two  hundred  feet  above  the  lake,  and  com- 
mands an  extensive  view.  The  streets  cross  at  right  angles, 
and  are  elevated  in  the  centre.  It  contains  about  one  hun- 
dred dwelling-houses,  some  of  which  are  elegant,  a  court- 
house, and  about  five  hundred  population  within  the  borough. 
The  harbor  is  spacious  and  will  hold  a  large  fleet,  but  un- 
fortunately it  is  obstructed  by  a  sand  bar,  which  crosses  the  en- 
trance obliquely,  upon  which  there  is  only  six  or  seven  feet 
of  water. 

"At  this  place  was  built  Perry's  immortal  flotilla.  The  British 
having  the  command  of  the  lake,  might  have  destroyed  it  in  the 
cradle,  but  for  the  intervention  of  that  bar.     Perry  floated  his 


*  In  the  winter  preceding  this  tour  Mr.  Watson  formed  and  prepared  a  plan  of 
a  harbor  at  Buffalo,  from  an  inspection  of  a  map  of  the  place,  without  having 
personally  seen  it.  This  plan,  through  the  agency  of  a  friend,  he  submitted  to 
a  committee  of  citizens,  and  which  it  is  believed  was  essentially  embraced  in  the 
improvement  that  was  ultimately  adopted.  This  project  was  matured  during  his 
visit,  and  the  Journal  of  Mr.  Watson  contains  a  detail  and  explanation  of  the 
plan,  with  maps  and  diagrams  illustrative  of  it.  As  I  possess  no  other  explicit 
information  of  the  extent  to  which  his  views  were  adopted,  I  have  refrained  from 
introducing  that  portion  of  the  Journal  into  this  work. — [Editor. 


422  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

ships  over  it,  by  means  of  machines,  and  conveyed  to  them 
on  the  outside  their  guns  and  stores.  The  British  should  have 
annihilated  them,  in  this  helpless  condition.  An  officer  of 
the  navy  conducted  Capt.  Baker  of  the  army,  his  wife  and 
myself,  in  a  barge  of  the  Niagara,  rov^ed  by  expert  Yankee 
sailors,  to  the  fleets.  They  are  sunk  to  their  quarter  decks  in 
the  outer  harbor,  side  by  side. 

"The  captured  ships  Detroit  and  Queen  Charlotte  lay  near 
each  other,  and  the  American  ship  Lawrence,  as  the  officer 
said,  in  a  raking  position,  a  little  astern  of  them.  We  were 
rowed  around  the  vessels  in  every  position,  examined  their 
battered  sides  under  water,  and  noticed  many  wounds  and 
shots  in  their  lower  spars.  We  visited  the  Niagara,  the  only 
ship  afloat,  and  were  politely  received  by  the  commanding 
officer  on  the  station,  who  conducted  us  into  every  part  of 
the  fortunate  vessel :  into  Perry's  cabin,  in  which  the  glorious 
missive  was  written,  "  We  have  met  the  enemy,  and  they  are 
ours."  't 

"I  conversed  with  several  petty  officers  and  sailors,  who 
were  in  the  memorable  battle.  After  taking  our  leave  of 
the  Niagara,  we  proceeded  to  the  shore  to  visit  the  arsenal, 
and  were  much  gratified  by  the  inspection  of  the  shattered 
spars  and  cannon  of  both  fleets.  I  can  recall  no  event  of  my 
life  more  fraught  with  the  luxury  of  national  pride,  in  which 
purest  and  loftiest  patriotism  could  so  widely  expatiate,  as 
when  I  contemplated  in  the  scene  the  rising  glory  of  the  Re- 
public, and  indulged  the  grateful  and  proud  conviction,  that 
the  ships,  or  rather  decaying  hulks  under  my  eyes,  had  done 
more  to  humble  the  arrogance  of  Britain  than  all  the  navies 
of  France  and  Spain,  through  the  long  annals  of  naval  warfare. 
We  had  often  beaten  her  before,  ship  to  ship,  but  the  battle 
of  Erie  was  our  first  trial  in  naval  tactics,  fleet  against  fleet. 

"I  boldly  challenge  the  history  of  England  to  unfold  a  nobler 
display  of  skill,  decision  and  bravery,  than  was  evinced  by 
Perry,  a  comparative  boy  of  Rhode  Island,  and  his  officers 
and  tars  in  every  stage  of  this  well-fought  battle.  The  father 
of  Perry  1  knew  well  in  the  Revolutionary  war.     He  com 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  423 

manded  a  packet  between  Newport  and  Providence,  and  was 
called,  I  think,  Kit  Perry. 

"  What  incident  in  history  is  more  noble  and  chivalric  than 
that  momentous  and  decisive  crisis  when  Perry  left  his  almost 
conquered  and  disabled  ship,  the  Lawrence,  in  an  open  boat, 
exposed  to  the  fire  of  the  British  fleet,  and  passed  to  the  Nia- 
gara, a  ship  fresh  and  uninjured,  thus  deciding  the  fortunes  of 
the  day,  and  capturing  every  vessel  of  a  superior  enemy. 

"  We  were  rowed  back  to  town  across  the  harbor,  and  in- 
spected the  public  store-house,  the  spot  where  Perry  built 
his  ships,  and  the  identical  boat  in  which  he  passed  to  the 
Niagara,  which  was  lying  on  the  beach  in  good  preservation. 

"  The  officer  who  conducted  us  in  the  yawl,  a  true  son  of 
Neptune,  not  only  declared,  but  swore  to  the  fact,  that  the 
Lawrence  had  been  sunk  three  times  alongside  the  Queen 
Charlotte,  that  she  could  not  be  kept  there,  having  each  time 
fell  ofi*  in  the  raking  position  in  which  we  saw  her,  in  spite  of 
them.  He  appeared  perfectly  serious  in  the  belief,  that  this 
was  a  preternatural  affair. 

"  In  the  year  1814  and  during  the  late  war,  I  had  frequent 
familiar  and  unreserved  conversations  with  a  British  officer 
high  in  rank  and  character,  upon  the  subject  of  our  success- 
ful naval  encounters  with  British  ships.  He  freely  conceded 
the  fact,  and  in  elucidation,  remarked,  that  he  met  his  friend 
Gen.  Hyslop  in  London  after  the  capture  of  the  frigate  Java, 
who,  with  many  officers  and  soldiers,  was  a  passenger  in  her, 
en  route  to  the  East  Indies;  that  he  inquired  of  Gen.  Hyslop, 
how  it  happened,  that  the  Java  was  captured  by  the  Constitu- 
tion, when  it  was  admitted,  that  she  was  of  about  equal  force, 
of  superior  equipment,  and  almost  doubly  manned.  That 
Gen.  Hyslop  replied  to  him,  "  they  expected  on  falling  in  with 
the  Constitution  to  make  a  short  job  of  her  capture."  He  re- 
mained, he  said,  on  the  quarter-deck  of  the  Java,  through  the 
engagement,  and  was  astonished  to  see  the  superior  gunnery 
of  the  Constitution,  she  discharging  during  the  battle  three 
broadsides  to  tvvo  of  her  antagonist,  which  added  in  eff'ect 
one   third  to  her  weight  of  fire;  and  to  this  circumstance  he 


424  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

imputed  the  victory  of  Bainbridge.  My  friend  added,  that 
Gen.  Hyslop  said  to  him,  from  his  subsequent  observation  and 
inquiry  he  was  convinced  the  American  sailors  were  far  more 
active  and  elastic  in  their  habits  and  motions  than  the  British. 
The  same  result  which  signalized  the  combat  between  the 
Constitution  and  Java,  characterized  the  numerous  battles  in 
the  Eevolution,  between  American  and  British  privateers,  and 
still  more  marked  and  decisively  those  of  the  late  war. 

"Capt.  Butler  and  myself  took  a  boat  and  I'owed  in  all 
directions  about  the  harbor,  sounded  the  water  at  various 
points,  and  sketched  a  plan  by  which  we  considered  the 
harbors  might  be  made  accessible  to  vessels  of  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  draft,  over  the  bar.  A  sketch  of  this  plan  is  embraced 
in  my  original  journals. 

"  Towards  evening,  I  was  escorted  by  a  citizen  of  the  town 
to  view  the  remains  of  an  old  French  fort  situated  on  a 
commanding  position  upon  the  brow  of  a  hill,  descending  to- 
wards the  lake.  A  French  garrison  was  here  surprised  and 
massacred  in  1755.  A  light-house  is  to  be  erected  on  this 
eminence,  which  will  be  seen  at  a  great  distance  up  and  down 
the  lake.  A  little  removed  from  this  point,  my  companion 
pointed  out  two  block-houses,  erected  to  protect  Perry's  fleet, 
while  building.  Near  one  of  these,  the  celebrated  Gen.  Wayne, 
the  hero  of  Stoney  Point,  and  the  conqueror,  near  Fort  Meigs, 
in  1791,  of  the  combined  Indian  tribes,  was  buried.  His  body, 
on  being  exhumed  a  few  years  since,  was  found,  it  is  said, 
in  a  remarkable  state  of  preservation. 

"In  the  evening,  I  took  a  boat  to  return  to  the  schooner, 
lying  in  the  ofling.  The  wind  was  blowing  a  gale  off  shore, 
and  I  soon  preceived  that  I  had  two  drunken  sailors  at  the 
oars.  It  was  intensely  dark,  and  we  almost  missed  our  gripe 
of  the  vessel  as  we  were  rushing  by  her  side,  when  we  must 
have  been  driven  into  the  open  lake  in  our  frail  boat,  with 
little  power  of  returning  against  the  gale. 

"  The  vessel  was  soon  under  sail,  with  close  reefs,  and  we 
were  able  for  two  hours,  and  the  first  time,  to  lay  our  course 
along  the  shore.     The  next  day  the  wind  was   again  ahead. 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  425 


and  we  continued  to  beat  against  a  pounding  and  chopping  sea, 
the  cabin  full  of  emigrants  and  all  sick.  The  ensuing  day 
we  beat  into  the  mouth  of  Grand  river,  and  to  our  mutual 
satisfaction  landed  a  part  of  our  passengers.  Remained  here 
the  29th;  a  favorable  land  breeze  sprung  up,  which  lasted  two 
hours,  and  we  were  contending  with  an  adverse  stiff  gale  all 
night. 

"June  30th,  we  dropped  anchor  in  a  gale  at  northwest, 
off  Cleaveland,  in  an  open  exposed  road.  In  the  afternoon  the 
wind  abated,  and  we  landed  at  the  town,  a  half  a  mile  within 
our  anchorage.  We  sounded  seven  and  a  half  feet  water  on 
the  bar,  at  the  outlet  of  the  harbor. 

"  Cleaveland  is  a  considerable  village,  inhabited  by  an  en- 
terprising race  of  full-blooded  Yankees  from  Connecticut.  We 
spent  the  residue  of  the  day  in  viewing  the  town  and  its  vici- 
nity. At  the  hotel,  I  was  gratified  to  meet  several  gentlemen 
of  cultivated  minds,  men  of  the  world,  polished  and  refined. 
Cleaveland  is  situated  on  the  Cuyahoga  river,  has  a  bank  in 
good  credit,  and  is  highly  flourishing  in  its  commerce  and 
trade.  A  company  has  been  formed  to  open  the  mouth  of 
the  river  and  to  remove  the  bar.  I  saw  a  superior  article  of 
grindstones  and  stones  for. building  at  the  landing,  which  I  was 
informed  had  been  brought  down  the  river  from  the  interior. 

"Early  in  the  evening  our  captain  apprised  us  that  a 
storm  was  gathering,  and  that  all  hands  must  at  once  go  on 
board.  When  we  reached  the  wharf  the  gale  was  so  severe, 
and  the  sea  rolling  in  so  heavily,  that  it  was  impracticable 
to  get  to  the  schooner,  which  we  could  see  pitching  bowsprit 
under  water.  Here  we  remained  all  night  in  great  anxiety,  from 
the  violence  of  the  gale,  for  our  vessel,  and  more  especially 
for  our  fellow  passengers,  Capt.  Baker  and  his  delicate  and 
charming  wife,  who  had  been  left  on  board,  with,  only  one 
old  French  sailor. 

"At  dawn  we  were  alongside  the  schooner,  with  a  fair 
fresh  wind  for  the  first  time  up  the  lake.  We  found  poor 
Baker  and  his  wife  in  a  woful  plight,  as  they  had  expected  for 
several  hours  that  the  vessel  would  founder  at  her  anchorage, 


426 


the  sea  often  making  a  clean  breach  over  her.     Our  beds  and 
baggage  were  drenched  with  water. 

"  A  fair  wind  revived  our  drooping  spirits,  and  we  were 
soon  under  way,  with  a  bright  sun  to  dry  olEf  our  clothing  and 
cheer  our  hearts.  The  archipelago  of  the  west  soon  made 
their  appearance,  a  cluster  of  beautiful  islands  situated  near 
the  upper  end  of  Lake  Erie,  which  will  be  forever  celebrated 
in  the  annals  of  America,  as  near  them  Perry  gained  his  great 
victory.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  through  them,  and  saw 
Put-in-bay,  from  whence  Perry  sailed  to  meet  his  advancing 
enemy. 

"  Sunday,  July  2d. — As  the  curtain  of  this  blessed  morning 
began  to  rise,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  spacious  entrance  of 
the  Detroit  river,  sailing  north  in  the  direction  of  the  city.  We 
took  the  channel  on  the  east  side  of  Gross  Island,  pressing 
close  into  the  British  shore.  I  have  never  seen  a  nobler  river, 
and  I  was  truly  astonished  to  observe  the  evidences  of  an  old 
country  on  its  margin  upon  each  shore.  I  was  pleased  to 
notice  old  orchards  and  farms  on  both  shores  as  we  approached 
Detroit,  which  presented  itself  in  about  the  distance  of  three 
miles.  It  appeared  from  its  imposing  position  like  a  consider- 
able city,  and  very  similar  to  Philadelphia  as  you  approach  by 
the  Delaware.  The  wind  failing,  we  dropped  anchor  and 
landed  on  the  Canadian  shore.  We  were  obliged  to  walk 
two  miles  and  then  be  ferried  over  to  the  city. 

"  The  memorable  4th  was  celebrated  in  a  field,  in  the  rear  of 
the  residence  of  Gov.  Cass,  where  I  dined  with  a  large  collec- 
tion of  gentlemen  and  officers  of  the  army.  The  occasion 
could  not  be  resisted,  although  I  had  no  desire  for  society. 
My  heart  and  mind  were  hovering  about  the  grave  of  my 
departed  child. 

"  Here  I  am  at  the  age  of  sixty  in  Detroit,  seven  hundred 
miles  west  of  Albany.  I  little  dreamed  thirty  years  ago,  that 
I  should  ever  tread  upon  this  territory.  It  is  now  time  that  1 
should  pause  and  review  the  ground  I  have  passed  over  in  a 
journey  of  exactly  one  month's  duration,  and  contemplate  this 
wonderful  country,  and  to  plunge  into  the  arcana  of  futurity. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  427 


"  Erie  may  be  considered  the  only  harbor  formed  by  nature 
on  this  important  lake,  and  that  is  materially  obstructed  by  a 
sand-bar  at  its  entrance.  Measures  are  now  in  progress  to 
construct  a  harbor  at  Dunkirk.  The  mouths  of  all  the  rivers 
are  choked  by  an  accumulation  of  sand.  These  are  all  sus- 
ceptible of  removal.  The  events  of  the  late  war  have  brought 
Lake  Erie  into  prominence  before  the  public  mind.  The  want 
of  harbors  upon  one  of  the  most  boisterous  lakes  on  the  globe 
was  severely  felt  in  our  recent  naval  operations.  This  fact 
and  the  rapid  progress  of  population  in  Ohio  and  Michigan, 
must  demonstrate  to  the  nation  the  paramount  public  policy 
which  demands  the  construction  of  artificial  harbors.  This 
necessity  will  be  vastly  enhanced  when  the  completion  of  the 
New- York  canals  shall  have  opened  a  new  avenue  for  the 
outpouring  of  the  illimitable  resources  of  Erie,  and  the  vast 
world  which  envelopes  the  upper  lakes.  The  importance  of 
these  improvements  will  be  enforced  with  still  greater  empha- 
sis, when  steamboats  shall  the  next  year  appear  upon  these 
waters.  Within  ten  years  I  confidently  predict  that  the 
obstructions  referred  to  will  be  removed,  and  that  appropriate 
light-houses  will  illuminate  this  lake. 

*'  When  these  results  are  consummated  a  new  era  will  dawn 
upon  the  West,  and  a  fresh  impulse  be  extended  to  every 
department  of  enterprize  and  industry.  Canals  will  be  extend- 
ed laterally,  and  tributary  streams  be  opened,  which  will  pour 
into  this  great  reservoir  the  diversified  products  of  these  broad 
and  fertile  regions,  which  before  the  close  of  the  present  centu- 
ry will  be  overspread  by  a  dense  population  of  independent," 
intelligent,  and  industrious  freemen. 

"  The  distance  by  these  facilities  will  be  practically  reduced 
ten-fold,  on  all  the  great  arteries  leading  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  West.  Lake  Erie  is  remarkably  exempt  from  shoals,  but  is 
still  the  most  shallow  of  all  the  lakes.  This  peculiarity  pro- 
duces here  waves  of  a  different  character,  and  more  dangerous 
than  upon  the  other  lakes,  which  are  more  assimilated  to  those 
of  the  ocean,  whilst  upon  Erie  they  are  short  and  broken,  in 
nautical  language,  chopping  seas. 


428  MEN"  AND   TIMES  OF   THE  REVOLUTION; 

"  The  northern  shore  of  Lake  Erie  is  equally  destitute  of 
safe  harbors.  Within  Point  Ebino,  about  fifty  miles  from 
Buffalo,  a  deep  bay  running  west,  called  Prince  Edwards', 
affords  a  fine  shelter  from  westerly  storms.  Secure  harbors 
may  be  constructed  at  Buffalo,  Erie,  Dunkirk,  Grand  River, 
Cleveland  and  Sandusky. 

"  The  location  of  Detroit  is  eminently  pleasant,  being  some- 
what elevated,  and  boldly  fronting  its  beautiful  river.  The 
old  town  has  been  burnt,  which  was  a  cluster  of  miserable 
structures  picketed  in  and  occupied  by  the  descendants  of 
Frenchmen,  who  pitched  their  tents  here  early  in  the  seven- 
teenth century  in  prosecution  of  the  fur  trade. 

"  The  city  is  now  laid  out  upon  a  large  scale,  the  streets 
spacious,  and  crossing  at  right  angles.  The  main  street  is 
called  Jefferson  Avenue,  and  stretches  the  whole  length  of  the 
city.  Detroit  must  always  be  the  emporium  of  a  vast  and 
fertile  interior.  * 

"By  the  existing  estimation  of  the  value  of  real  estate  here, 
it  has,  I  think,  been  greatly  overrated.  Commerce  is  languish- 
ing, and  agriculture  at  its  lowest  degradation.  In  proof  of  this, 
I  saw  at  the  Grand  Marie,  four  miles  north  of  the  city,  a 
large,  clumsy,  wooden  plow,  such  as  doubtless  were  in  use  in 
France,  at  the  period  of  the  emigration  from  that  country  of 
the  ancestors  of  this  people.  It  was  drawn  by  two  yoke  of 
oxen  and  two  horses,  and  was  conducted  by  three  men,  who 
were  making  as  much  noise  as  if  they  were  moving  a  barn. 

"  The  most  attractive  object  I  have  seen  on  this  beautiful 
river  are  its  innumerable  and  lovely  islands,  most  of  which  are 
cultivated.  The  dense  forest  approaches  in  close  proximity  to 
the  city,  and  spreads  over  a  level  surface  quite  into  the 
interior.  From  the  highest  point  of  elevation  I  could  attain, 
I  discerned  no  uplands,  all  was  a  dead  plain.  The  land  belongs 
to  the  government,  and  is  of  the  richest  quality,  but  has  hith- 
erto been  represented  as  unhealthy.  The  territory  of  Michigan 
has  not  been  adequately  explored  ;  but  while  I  was  at  Detroit, 
several  parties  of  enterprizing  and  energetic  young  men  pene- 
trated into  the  woods  with  packs  on  their  shoulders  to  investi- 


429 


gate,  and  returned  with  the  most  glowing  and  flattering 
accounts  of  a  country  of  the  choicest  land,  generally  undulat-/ 
ing,  and  requiring  nothing  but  the  vigorous  arm  of  industry 
to  convert  it  into  the  granary  of  America. 

"  The  near  approach  of  the  wilderness  to  Detroit,  brings 
the  howling  wolves  within  a  short  distance  of  the  city,  and  I 
was  frequently  called  on  to  hsten  to  their  shrill  cries  in  the 
calm,  hot  nights.  The  numerous  and  large  old  orchards  of 
the  finest  apples,  originally  imported  from  France,  and  the 
extensive  fisheries  of  white  fish  in  the  vicinity,  gready  augment 
the  wealth  and  comfort  of  the  people.  Although  possessing 
the  most  fertile  soil,  such  is  the  wretched  character  of  their 
agriculture,  that  the  inhabitants  are  mainly  dependent  upon  the 
young  and  thriving  State  of  Ohio,  for  their  supplies  of  pork, 
beef,  breadstufTs,  and  even  of  potatoes. 

"  I  daily  notice  squaws  fighting  in  the  streets  like  wild-cats, 
and  in  conditions  too  revolting  to  describe.  They  lay  about 
the  city  like  swine,  begging  for  cats  and  dogs,  which  they 
devour  at  the  river  side  half-cooked.  The  most  disgusting  and 
loathsome  sight  I  ever  witnessed,  was  that  of  a  coarse,  fat, 
half  naked  Indian,  as  filthy  as  a  beast,  under  a  tree  immedi- 
ately in  front  of  my  son's  residence,  filling  his  mouth  with 
whiskey  until  his  cheeks  were  completely  distended,  and  then 
two  or  three  squaws  in  succession  sucking  it  out  of  the  cor- 
ners. I  called  my  daughter-in-law  to  see  the  revolting  sight, 
but  she  assured  me  it  was  nothing  unusual,  and  that  the  prac- 
tice was  common  with  this  tribe  of  Indians.  I  often  visited 
the  fort  that  my  old  friend  Hull  so  fatally  and  ignorniniously 
surrendered.  Col.  Myers,  who  was  in  the  command  of  Fort 
George  at  its  capture,  informed  me  while  a  prisoner  in  Pitts- 
field,  that  one  half  of  Brock's  army,  at  the  surrender  of  Detroit, 
were  Canadian  militia  dressed  in  British  red  coats. 

"  Having  completed  all  the  purposes  of  my  journey,  1  took 
passage  on  board  of  a  British  ship,  commanded  by  Captain 
Mcintosh,  an  excellent  sailor  and  gentlemanly  companion. 
We  dropped  down  to  Sandwich  the  21st  of  July.  This  is  a 
considerable   village  on  the  British   shore.      I   landed  here, 


430  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

viewed  the  town,  and  remained  until  morning.  The  wind 
being  fair,  we  early  weighed  anchor  and  were  soon  in  rapid 
motion  down  Lake  Erie,  having  our  kites  all  spread  and  sail- 
ing most  pleasantly  ;  our  affairs  presenting  a  strong  contrast 
in  all  respects  to  our  miserable  condition  in  ascending  the 
lake.  The  vessel  was  neat  and  clean,  the  sailors,  all  dressed  in 
uniform,  were  active  and  alert.  The  wind  continuing  fair  and 
strong,  we  dropped  anchor  at  noon,  on  the  third  day  after  our 
departure,  opposite   Fort  Erie. 

It  is  impossible  for  an  old  traveller  to  look  upon  the  existing 
condition  of  Michigan,  and  not  be  impressed  with  a  conviction 
of  the  great  and  rapid  changes  which  await  the  territory.  It  is 
destined  soon  to  emerge  from  its  present  social  and  agricultural 
depression,  into  a  great  State,  rich,  populous  and  progressive,  and 
enjoying  all  the  refinements  and  elegancies  of  civilized  society. 
Detroit  will  rank  among  the  great  cities  of  America.  Agri- 
culture, the  basis  of  all  public  prosperity,  is  now  lamentably 
debased  in  general,  scarcely  advanced  from  the  point  it  occu- 
pied centuries  ago.  The  depression  of  agriculture  necessarily 
bears  down  the  interests  of  commerce,  for  in  a  country  like 
this,  where  is  commerce  without  agriculture? 

"  Blessed  with  a  luxuriant  soil  and  with  the  highest  conve- 
niences of  water  intercourse,  and  occupying  a  central  attitude 
upon  the  most  extensive  internal  navigation  by  inland  seas  on 
earth,  what  may  not  Michigan  aspire  to  become  ?  Agricul- 
tural societies  would  shed  a  most  powerful  and  benign  influ- 
ence upon  the  progress  and  development  of  this  region.  The 
presence  of  a  new  and  different  class  of  farmers,  more  enlight- 
ened, more  industrious  and  progressive,  would  at  once  give  to 
it  a  new  aspect. 

*'I  found  my  confident  anticipations  of  the  future  and  im- 
mediate advance  ol  this  territory,  in  addition  to  its  inherent 
elements  of  prosperity,  upon  the  following  considerations : 

''First,  The  sale  of  the  public  lands,  now  first  about  to  be 
opened.  This  measure  will  give  new  wings  to  the  progress 
and  population  of  the  country. 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  431 

^'Second,  The  introduction  of  steamboats  the  ensuing  year  on 
Lake  Erie,  with  Detroit  the  ultimate  point  of  destination. 

"  Third^  The  erection  of  light-houses  to  facilitate  the  navi- 
gation. 

'^Fourth,  The  construction  of  harbors  now  in  contemplation 
at  various  points. 

"Fifth,  and  above  all  these,  the  rapid  advance  of  the  Erie 
Canal  towards  Buffalo. 

These  great  facilities  to  commerce  and  trade  will  not  only 
reduce  immensely  the  expenses  of  transportation,  but  will  vir- 
tually lessen  the  distance,  by  the  economy  in  time  they  will 
effect  between  Detroit  and  the  eastern  markets.  Soon  the 
decks  of  steamers  will  be  thronged  by  passengers  of  a  new 
character,  attracted  by  curiosity  and  purposes  of  business  to 
this  remote  region,  who  will  scatter  tbeir  funds  with  a  lavish 
hand.  The  future  of  Michigan  seems  to  be  certain,  defined, 
full  of  promise  and  expansion. 


432  MEN-  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REYOLUTION 


CHAPTER     XXXII.' 

Correspondence  with  Mr.  Adams — Letters  from  Him — Letter  from 
Joim  Quincy  Adams — Tour  into  Canada — St.  John's — La  Prairie — St. 
Lawrence — Montreal — Lachine  Canal — Account  of  Works — Prospects 
and  Effects  of  Canadian  Canals — American  Tourists— Speculative  View 
of  the  Future. 

The  correspondence  between  Mr.  Adams  and  Mr.  Watson 
was  maintained,  sometimes  at  long  intervals,  until  within  a  few 
months  of  the  death  of  the  former,  even  after  he  was  obliged, 
in  conducting  it,  to  employ  an  amanuensis.  The  last  of  his 
letters  was  in  March,  1825,  in  reference  to  the  election  to  the 
Presidency  of  his  son.  This,  however,  is  unfortunately  lost. 
Several  written  during  the  latter  part  of  his  life,  have  been 
already  interspersed  in  preceding  sections  of  this  work,  in  their 
appropriate  relations,  while  others  I  feel  constrained  to  with- 
hold from  the  public  eye.  The  following  cordial  interchange  of 
opinions  and  sentiments,  terminates  an  intercourse  of  nearly 
half  a  century. 

From  Mr.  Watson  to  Mr.  Adams. 

"Albany,  2d  A^oi'.  1818. 
*'■  Dear  Sir  : 

"It  is  now  thirty-seven  years  since  I  had  the  honor  of  receiving 
your  first  letter  at  Ancenis.  It  was  a  paternal  letter,  containing  salu- 
tary advice  to  a  young  American,  on  the  point  of  entering  the  busy 
theatre  of  the  European  world.  It  has  been  very  useful  to  me  on 
many  occasions.  You  then  said  you  must  talk  to  me  as  an  old  man. 
1  am  now  fifteen  years  older  than  you  were  at  that  time,  and  yet  I 
cannot  realize  the"  idea  of  being  ai  old  man — consigned  to  the  chim- 
ney-corner— in  my  night-gown  and  night-cap,  smoking  my  pipe.  I 
am  determined  to  iii^lit  off  the  old  man  as  long  as  I  can  walk  erect, 
with  a  firm  and  manly  step,  as  my  friends  are  pleased  to  say  I  do. 
The  moment  a  man  well-stricken  in  years  is  willing  to  resign  himself 
to  the  old  man,  he  will  soon  find  himself  in  the  dry  dock  in  good 
earnest. 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOl^.  433 

"  You  have  frequently  expressed  a  wish  that  I  would  detail  to  you 
the  conversation  1  had  with  my  Tory  relations  in  exile  at  Birming- 
ham, m  1782,  in  reference  to  you,  especially  with  Chief  Justice  Oli- 
ver. Looking  over  my  old  Journals  I  find  the  following  memoran- 
dum, Oct.  12th,  1782  : — '  In  a  long  conversation  this  morning  with 
Judge  Oliver,  in  company  with  my  cousin  Elisha  Hutchinson,  son  of 
the  Governor,  Doct.  Oliver,  and  several  other  royalists,  principally 
on  American  affairs,  in  which  I  did  not  in  any  manner  disguise  my 
rebellious  sentiments ;  it  turned  mostly  on  my  respected  friend, 
John  Adams. 

"  Although  the  Judge  admitted  his  firmness  and  virtue,  yet  he 
sid  he  always  '  dreaded  him  more  than  any  man  in  America.'  I 
will  endeavor  to  amuse  you  with  a  little  anecdote,  which  took 
place  the  Sunday  preceding.  (Here  follows  the  account  of  an  inci- 
dent already  mentioned,)  I  then  began,  for  the  first  time,  to  feel 
their  position,  and  to  pity  the  poor  exiled,  cast-oflT  tories — never 
more  to  see  the  face  of  their  native  land,  for  which  they  sigh,  as  did 
the  Jews  for  their  beloved  country.  If  consistent  with  propriety 
you  will  gratify  me,  by  an  explanation  of  the  paragraph  in  your  let- 
ter of  the  16th  April,  1812,  which  sunk  deep  into  my  heart  at  that 
time — to  be  denounced  in  such  a  tremendous  manner,  as  it  then  ap- 
peared to  me.  Respectfully, 

"  Elkanah  Watson. 

"John  Adams,  late  President  U.  States." 


"QumcY,  Nov.  1th,  1817. 

"  Dear  Sir  : 

"  I  thank  you  for  your  favor  of  the  2d  inst.  If  thirty-seven  years 
ago  I  wrote  you  in  the  character  of  an  old  man,  I  must  now  write  in 
that  of  a  superannuated  one. 

"  When  Chief  Justice  Oliver  said  to  you  in  1782,  he  '  dreaded  me 
more  than  any  man  in  America,'  he  did  not  explain  his  reasons.  1 
will  not  pretend  at  present  to  conjecture  more  than  one.  He  knew 
that  I  was  the  first  projector  of  the  in^peachment  of  the  Judge^^,  and 
he  believed  that  measure  to  be  the  critical  event  on  which  the  Revo- 
lution turned. 

"  Enthusiasm  for  agriculture  I  have  felt  to  my  cost  in  my  own 
breast,  and  I  daily  see  it  in  my  amiable  neighbors,  Pomeroy  and 
Quincy,  and  many  others. 

"  Far  from  reproaching  or  regretting  it,  I  rejoice  in  it,  because  it 
does  good.  Yours  in  particular  has  been  very  useful.  When  I  said, 
in  my  letter  of  the  16th  April,  1812,  that  '  so  many  interesting  and 
respectable  Societies  were  against  you,'  I  meant  at  that  time  an 
Anglo-manian  and  anti-Gallican  enthusiasm  was  prevalent  and  tri- 
umphant in  this  quarter,  and  that  you,  as  well  as  I,  had  given  ofl^ence 
by  an  approbation  of  the  war  against  England. 

"  Morever,  I  was  against  advancing  your  Agricultural  Society  any 

28 


434  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  EEVOLUTION ; 

money,  because  I  thought  we  had  no  right  to  do  it,  and  because  I 
thought  as  soon  as  our  finances  would  allow,  we  ought  to  institute 
Cattle  Shows  on  your  plan,  and  Exhibitions  of  Manufactures  of  our 
own. 

"  I  am  sorry  you  are  not  to  return  to  Massachusetts,  because  you 
have  been  a  meritorious  citizen,  and  possess  much  of  the  esteem  of 
your  friend. 


John  Adams. 


Elkanah  Watson,  Esq.,  Albany." 


Mr.  Watson  to  Mr.  Adams. 

"Albany,  4th  Dec,  1822. 
"  Dear  Sir  : 

"  I  rejoice  to  notice  by  the  public  papers  that  you  are  not  only  alive, 
but  that  it  is  evident,  from  your  interesting  letter  to  A.  Coffin,  that 
Providence  continues  to  bless  you  with  an  unimpaired  intellect. 

"  I  also  rejoice,  sir,  to  find  a  new  motive  to  address  you  once  more. 
We  have  corresponded  upwards  of  forty  years  on  various  subjects. 

"  The  object  of  the  present  letter  is  to  enclose  to  you  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Vanderkempt,  which  appeared  in  this  day's  daily  paper,  in  de- 
fence of  your  just  claims  on  the  gratitude  of  posterity.  I  attended 
the  meeting  on  the  subject  of  the  brave  Greeks,  to  which  he  alludes, 
and  verbally  explained  the  error  committed  by  the  orator,  but  was 
too  unwell  to  address  the  audience.  Most  of  the  facts  stated  by 
Mr.  Vanderkempt  were  familiar  to  me,  especially  as  I  was  indebted 
to  you  for  an  introduction  to  America's  earliest  advocate,  Mons. 
Dumas,  our  steady,  valuable,  and  efficient  friend,  in  June,  1784, 
while  travelling  in  Holland,  as  well  as  for  letters  of  introduction  to 
that  bright  lamp  of  science,  the  unfortunate  Luzar  of  Ley  den,*  and 
Van  Stopherst,  the  great  banker  at  Amsterdam,  all  firm  and  useful 
friends  to  America,  in  the  eventful  crisis  of  our  Revolution.  I  shall 
be  happy  to  hear  from  you  once  more,  and  am  cordially  and  affec- 
tionately yours, 

*'  Elkanah  Watson. 

*'  John  Adams,  late  President 

United  States,  Montezillo,  Mass." 


*  Mons.  Luzar  was  blown  up  in  an  explosion  of  gunpowder,  belonging  to  the 
French,  in  1784,  upon  the  canal  opposite  his  own  house. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  435 


REPLY. 

"MoNTEziLLO,  Dec.  10/7i,  1822. 

"  Dear  Watson  : — I  thank  you  for  your  kind  letter  of  the  4th 
inst.  I  wish  that  time  may  bring  forth  as  able  a  vindicator  of  your 
useful  life,  as  Mr,  Vanderkempt  has  proved,  in  defence  of  my  repu- 
tation, with  posterity,  for  some  little  usefulness  in  Holland. 

"  This  testimony  of  Vanderkempt  was  as  unexpected  to  me  as 
if  Lusac,  De  Geislaer,  Van  Berkel,  Father  Dumas,  Cersier  or  Van- 
dercopellen,  had  risen  from  the  grave  and  published  such  a  narra- 
tion. It  is  written  however  'avec  connaissance  de  cause.'  I  recol- 
lect with  pleasure  the  agreeable  hours  I  have  passed  with  you  in 
France,  Holland,  England  and  America,  and  our  correspondence 
for  forty  years,  and  regret  that  we  have  not  lived  nearer  together. 

"  I  will  thank  you  to  send  me  a  copy  of  Col.  Troup's  pamphlet  on 
the  canals. 

"I  hope  you  received  the  Old  Colony  Memorial,  a  newspaper 
instituted  at  Plymouth,  and  edited  by  William  Thomas,  Esq.  A 
paper  which  deserves  to  be  read  and  encouraged  by  all  America. 

•'I  am  sir.  both  rationally  and  affectionately  your  friend, 

"John  Adams, 

"E.  Watson,  Esq." 


Extract  of  a  Letter  from  Mr.  Watson  to  Mr.  Adams. 

"Albany,  Ylth  Dec,  1812. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — I  received  your  friendly  favor  of  the  10th  inst.  I 
took  the  liberty  of  showing  it  to  Secretary  Yates,  and  permitted  him 
to  take  a  copy  to  transmit  to  your  friend.  Mynheer  Vanderkempt. 
I  hope  I  have  not  done  amiss.         ****** 

"  When  I  was  in  Philadelphia,  and  had  the  honor  to  dine  with 
you  solus  in  1792,  you  observed  to  me,  '  My  friend,  I  perceive  the 
mania  of  canals,  banks,  and  general  improvement  has  seized  fast  hold 
of  you,  and  that  your  mind  is  absorbed  in  these  objects.  How- 
ever useful  to  the  public,  rely  on  it,  the  pursuit  will  create  you 
many  enemies.  Let  me  advise  you  to  moderate  your  zeal,  and  let 
your  primary  object  be,  to  secure  an  independence  for  old  age,  and 
make  provision   for  your  rising  family.' 

"This  sage  and  paternal  advice  sunk  deep  into  my  mind  at  the 
time,  and  yet  blindfold  as  it  were,  I  continued  to  pursue  my 
destiny. 

"Had  I  observed  your  advice  and  devoted  my  time  with  equal 
zeal  exclusively  to  selfish  pursuits,  I  should  have  been  worth  pro- 
bably at  this  moment  a  half  million  dollars — and  my  sons  would 
most  probably  have  become  drones  in  the  American  hive." 


436  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

The  following  memorandum  is  inscribed  on  the  draft  of  the 
annexed  letter  to  Mr.  Adams. 

"  After  an  eventful  and  protracted  struggle,  which  has  con- 
vulsed the  nation  to  the  very  centre,  the  long  agony  is  over. 
On  the  9th  of  February,  1825,  John  Q.  Adams,  the  son  of  my 
old  friend  President  Adams,  who  still  lives,  was  proclaimed 
President  of  these  United  States.  In  consequence,  1  wrote 
the  father  the  subjoined,  my  last  letter  to  him  : 

"  Albany,  Ibth  Feb.,  1825. 
''  My  Veneraale  Friend  . 

"  Holding  a  correspondence  with  you  on  various  subjects  for  up- 
wards of  forty-five  years,  it  is  peculiarly  proper,  and  I  desire  to  bless 
God,  that  1  have  it  in  the  evening  of  your  useful  days  to  offer  to  you 
my  sincere  and  hearty  congratulations,  on  the  recent  elevation  of 
your  son  to  the  first  office  in  the  gift  of  a  republican  nation. 

"  I  ana  the  more  gratified  that  this  great  State  has  contributed  to 
his  elevation,  in  every  stage  of  the  mighty  controversy.  I  am 
now  treading  fast  on  the  heels  of  an  old  man,  and  God  has  permit- 
ted you  to  reach  to  four-score  and  ten.  Farewell  my  great  and 
good  friend.     May  we  meet  in  regions  of  bliss. 

"  E.  Watson. 

"  John  Adams." 

After  the  death  of  Mr.  Adams  numerous  applications  were 
made  to  Mr.  Watson  by  politicians  and  students  of  history, 
as  well  from  Europe,  as  Americans,  soliciting  the  perusal  of 
his  correspondence  with  Mr.  Adams,  and  by  some,  that  they 
might  be  entrusted  with  their  publication. 

Under  these  circumstances  Mr.  Watson  addressed  a  com- 
munication to  John  Q.  Adams,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
an  expression  of  his  views  and  feelings  on  that  subject.  The 
reply  of  the  son  is  subjoined.  While  the  lapse  of  more  than 
another  quarter  of  a  century  since  the  date  of  that  answer 
has  removed  many  of  the  grounds  upon  which  Mr.  Adams 
rested  his  implied  hesitation,  and  although  the  subsequent  pub- 
lication of  the  most  private  and  confidential  correspondence 
of  John  Adams,  by  the  act  of  the  common  representative  of 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  437 

both  the  father  and  the  son,  relieves  me  from  all  restraint, 
still  I  have  endeavored,  in  deciding  the  question  presented  to 
my  judgment  and  discretion,  and  in  my  selection  from  the  cor- 
respondence, to  regard  with  the  utmost  delicacy  and  circum- 
spection the  spirit  of  Mr.  Adams'  communication. 

In  obedience  to  that  design  I  have  suppressed  much  relative 
to  Mr.  Adams,  that  would  have  increased  the  interest  and  value 
of  this  work,  and  I  trust  have  revealed  nothing  to  the  public 
eye,  which  will  not  tend  to  elevate  the  popular  appreciation  of 
the  character  of  the  elder  Adams,  his  patriotism  and  services. 

"  Elkanah  Watson,  Esq.,  Albany,  Neio-Yorh. 

"  Washington,  IQth  March,  1827. 

"Sir — 1  have  duly  received  your  letters,  and  in  the  sincerity  of 
acknowledgment,  that  they  ought  each  of  them  to  have  been  directly 
and  successively  answered,  I  ask  credit  only  for  the  assurance  that 
the  delay  to  perform  that  duty  has  been  attributable  to  any  cause 
other  than  personal  disrespect  to  you,  or  indifference  to  the  favor  of 
your  correspondence.  Besides  my  friendly  recollections  of  your 
person,  which,  if  I  mistake  not,  travels  back  to  the  summer  of  1784, 
at  the  Hague,  I  cannot  be  insensible  to  the  service  which  the  cause  of 
internal  improvements  is  indebted  to  you,  and  in  the  friend  and  cor- 
respondent of  my  father,  I  shall  ever  take  a  grateful  satisfaction  in 
recognizing  my  own.  With  respect  to  the  question  which  you  have 
had  the  goodness  to  refer  to  my  consideration,  concerning  the  confi- 
dential letters,  which  in  a  long  series  of  years  you  received  from  my 
father,  I  think  you  have  judged  rightly  in  refusing  to  give  copies  of 
them.  From  the  frankness  of  his  nature,  the  vrarmth  of  his  feelings 
and  the  confiding  sincerity  of  his  disposition,  his  letters  often  con- 
tained expressions  of  opinions,  which  he  neither  expected,  nor  would 
have  consented,  should  have  been  made  public.  Since  his  decease 
there  may  be  less  reason  for  wit-bholding  them  from  the  public. 

"  Sensible  to  that  delicacy  of  sentiment  with  which  you  have  re- 
ferred this  question  to  me,  I  shall,  however,  cheerfully  acquiesce  in 
any  determination  which  you  may  ultimately  take  concerning  it,  and 
remain  with  respectful  regards, 

"  Your  friend  and  fellow-citizen, 

"  John  Quinct  Adams." 

It  is  proper  that  I  should  add,  that  several  of  the  letters  of 
John  Adams  to  my  father,  were  published  during  the  lifetime 
of  the  former,  with  his  knowledge  and  approbation. 

In  the  year  1826,  Mr.  Watson  made  a  short  tour  from  Lake 


438  MEN  AND  TIMES   OF  THE   EEVOLUTION ; 

Champlain  into  Canada.  His  notes  of  it  possess,  from  the 
facts  and  speculations  they  embrace,  unusual  interest. 

"  In  the  month  of  August,  1826, 1  entered  Lower  Canada,  for 
the  first  time,  at  St.  John's,  and  travelled  by  stage  to  La 
Prairie,  on  the  St,  Lawrence,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles. 
St.  John's  appears  to  be  in  a  decaying  condition,  and  the  coun- 
try through  which  I  passed  in  a  low  state  of  cultivation,  with? 
it  is  said,  a  depressed  population,  although  the  land  seems  sus- 
ceptible of  great  improvement  and  productiveness.  I  examin- 
ed, with  much  gratification,  a  little  above  St.  John's,  the  ruins 
of  the  old  fortress,  which  capitulated,  in  1775,  to  the  gallant 
Montgomery.  From  La  Prairie  we  ascended  in  a  small  steam- 
er to  Montreal,  pitching  adown  the  rapids,  in  the  midst  of 
rocks.  Althoughi  thousands  had  made  the  passage  before  me 
in  safety,  I  could  not  overcome  the  most  serious  apprehensions. 
It  seemed  inevitable,  in  any  derangement  of  the  machinery, 
that  the  little  vessel  must  be  dashed  to  atoms  among  the  jutting 
rocks.  When  I  considered  the  relative  position  of  St.  John's 
and  Montreal,  with  a  level  country  intervening,  I  could  not 
resist  the  idea  how  soon  these  places,  and  the  waters  upon 
which  they  are  situated,  would  be  artificially  connected,  were 
Canada  attached  to  the  American  Republic.  I  remained  a 
night  at  La  Prairie — and  seemed  to  be  restored  to  one  of  the 
little  fishing  towns  on  the  coast  of  France.  It  appears  more 
active  and  commercial  than  St.  John's. 

"  Montreal  exceeds  altogether  my  expectations.  It  must  be- 
come an  important  city,  and  before  the  lapse  of  half  a  century 
will  be  embraced  in  the  family  of  American  cities,  our  old 
friend  John  Bull  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding.  The  houses 
of  Montreal  are  generally  built  of  stone,  and  many  of  them 
are  elegant  structures.  I  visited  all  the  Convents,  attended 
mass  at  the  old  church,  and  felt  as  if  transported  once  more  to 
gay  and  beautiful  France.  The  Episcopalian  Church  is  dis- 
tinguished for  some  elegance.  They  strained  a  cord,  it  is  said, 
to  excel  the  old  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral ;  but  the  excited 
Catholics  (between  whom  and  the  English  no  small  animosity 
prevails)  have  determined  to  put  in  requisition  all  their  re- 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOIT.  439 

sources,  to  erect  a  church  of  greater  magnitude  and  splendor 
than  any  other  in  the  Western  Hemisphere.  The  foundation 
of  this  edifice  is  laid,  and  I  examined  its  several  parts  with  as- 
tonishment ;  for  it  appeared,  in  the  mazes  of  its  subterranean 
recesses  and  arches,  like  the  outline  of  a  vast  castle.  It  will 
cost,  it  is  estimated,  half  a  milUon  of  dollars. 

"  Montreal  may  be  regarded  as  the  grand  emporium  of  both 
the  Canadas.  It  is  a  place  of  much  commerce  and  wealth. 
Its  importance  is  attested  by  the  great  efforts  we  made  in  the 
last  war  for  its  capture.  The  attempt  cost  us  many  millions 
of  dollars,  and  thousands  of  lives,  but  we  gained  neither  city 
nor  laurels— only  reaping  a  bountiful  harvest  of  disgrace  and 
national  humiliation.  The  La  Chine  Canal  was  nearly  com- 
pleted, and  the  Board  of  Commissioners  had  appropriated  an 
elegant  boat,  to  enable  them  to  inspect  the  canal  and  locks. 
It  being  understood  that  I  w^as  in  the  city,  a  formal  card  was 
addressed  to  me,  inviting  my  attendance  on  the  excursion. 

"  I  repaired,  in  conformity  to  the  invitation,  to  the  boat,  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  about  six  o'clock,  A.  M.,  where  I  met  a 
respectable  body  of  Commissioners,  to  whom  I  was  a  stranger. 
They  were  principally  Scotch  merchants,  of  wealth  and  re- 
respectability,  by  whom  I  was  received  with  much  politeness. 
The  compliment  was  enhanced  by  the  fact,  that  I  was  the 
only  invited  guest. 

"  The  morning  was  peculiarly  serene  and  pleasant.  The  boat 
was  well  calculated  for  a  packet,  having  a  high  quarter-deck, 
with  seats  each  side,  and  a  cabin  below.  The  Commissioners 
were  all  highly  exhilarated  with  the  opening  scene,  from  its 
novelty  in  Canada,  and  the  anticipated  influence  of  the  enter- 
prise upon  the  prosperity  of  the  provinces,  and  especially  of 
Montreal.  As  a  traveller  and  citizen  of  the  world,  I  entered 
warmly  into  their  feehngs  and  views,  and  yet  they  little  imagin- 
ed the  workings  of  my  mind  at  that  moment,  as  1  w^as  contem- 
plating all  these  measures,  as  destined  to  contribute  eventually 
to  the  prosperity  and  strength  of  my  own  country.  Without 
jealousy  or  envy  I  indulged  myself  in  viewing  this  canal,  in 
connection  with  those  proposed  on  the  Ottowa,  and  the  ship 


440  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION  ; 

navigation  between  Erie  and  Ontario,  as  constituting  a  system 
that  will  prove  a  fearful  rival  to  the  Hudson  and  Erie  Canal. 

"  These  splendid  improvements,  when  completed,  will  at 
least  create  and  stimulate  a  spirit  of  competition  and  excite 
mutual  emulation.  I  am  aware  this  opinion  of  the  effects  of 
the  Canadian  canals  will  be  scouted  by  the  high-toned  canal 
men  of  New- York,  but  still  I  must  indulge  in  the  speculation. 
This  canal  was  commenced  five  years  ago,  and  when  com- 
pleted will  cost  about  half  a  million  of  dollars.  It  is  twenty- 
three  feet  at  the  bottom,  forty-eight  wide  at  the  top,  contains 
three  feet  depth  of  water,  and  is  connected  by  eight  superb 
locks,  built  in  the  most  substantial  manner.  They  are  twenty 
feet  wide,  one  hundred  long,  and  six  feet  hft.  The  execution 
exceeds  by  far  the  best  of  the  New- York  locks.  When  they 
do  not  rest  on  the  rock,  the  bottoms  on  the  inside  are  substan- 
tially connected  with  the  body  of  the  lock  by  hewn  stone, 
deposited  upon  three-inch  oak  plank  forming  a  partial  inverted 
arch,  the  sides  of  the  locks  form  the  segment  of  a  large  circle. 
The  bridges  over  the  canals  are  constructed  in  the  firmest 
manner  of  cedar,  elevated  nine  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
canal,  and  resting  on  hewn  stone  abutments  laid  in  water 
cement,  the  whole  fabric  being  bound  together  by  large  ship- 
knees  of  seasoned  oak,  and  the  wood-work  handsomely  painted. 

"  These  works  bear  a  very  favorable  contrast  to  the  New- 
York  locks  and  bridges.  The  latter  are  remarkably  slender, 
and  so  low  as  to  have  caused  the  death  of  several  persons,  and 
are  always  exposing  unsuspecting  passengers  to  great  danger. 
They  fortunately  will  last  not  longer  than  seven  years,  and  I 
hope  we  shall  take  pattern  when  they  are  renewed  from  this 
canal. 

"  This  noble  work,  although  on  a  small  scale  when  compared 
with  the  grand  canal  of  New-York,  considered  as  the  offspring 
of  private  effort,  reflects  great  credit  on  the  enterprizing 
adventurers.  The  heaviest  part  of  the  labor  was  the  excava- 
tion of  three  miles  through  a  solid  limestone  rock  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  canal. 

"This  improvement  will  effectually  obviate  the  most  danger- 


OR,   MEMOIRS   OF   ELKANAH  WATSON.  441 

ous  rapids  on  the  St.  Lawrence  of  nine  miles  in  length,  from 
La  Chine  to  Montreal,  which  averages  a  fall  of  five  feet  to  the 
mile  in  the  midst  of  rocks. 

"  In  approaching  the  little  village  of  La  Chine,  at  the  foot 
of  Lake  St.  Louis,  we  discovered  a  steamboat  descending  the 
lake  with  great  rapidity,  directing  its  course  at  the  point  at 
which  we  aimed.^  Both  reached  the  landing  at  nearly  the 
same  moment.  The  steamer  was  crowded  with  passengers, 
citizens  of  the  United  States,  on  the  grand  fashionable  tour 
from  the  upper  lakes  to  Montreal  and  Quebec.  This  is  a 
rational,  healthy,  and  interesting  recreation  in  the  sickly  season, 
especially  to  inhabitants  of  the  south.  The  Canadians  perceive 
with  pleasure  this  intercourse  augmenting  from  year  to  year  as 
we  increase  in  wealth  and  population,  and  well  they  may,  as 
these  travellers  spend  their  money  with  a  liberal  spirit.  The 
immediate  effect  of  this  intercourse  is  to  accelerate  the  progress 
of  improvement  in  the  comforts  of  travelling  in  the  country, 
which  otherwise  would  remain  nearly  stationary  for  many 
years  from  the  nature  of  its  resources  and  the  character  of  its 
people.  But  what  is  the  present  intercourse  to  that  which 
will  exist  at  the  close  of  this  century,  when  our  population  will 
have  reached  one  hundred  millions !  Who  can  reasonably 
doubt  that  within  half  that  period,  in  the  irresistible  march  of 
events,  the  two  Canadas  and  all  the  possessions  of  Great  Britain 
in  North  America,  will  have  become  bright  stars  in  the  con- 
stellation of  American  States. 

"  What  spectacle  on  the  globe  will  compare  with  the  gran- 
deur and  sublimity  of  the  scene  which  will  then  be  exhibited 
to  the  admiration  of  our  own  descendants  and  of  all  nations. 
What  a  commotion,  what  an  animated  intercourse  in  a  country 
abounding  with  a  dense,  active,  intelligent  and  enterprizing 
population  of  freemen  will  then  be  seen  in  every  direction,  in 
our  cities,  upon  our  rivers  and  canals,  and  above  all,  on  our 
inland  oceans  and  the  great  leading  avenues  which  will  rivet 
them  to  the  Atlantic,  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Hudson,  the 
Chesapeake  and  the  Mississippi. 

"  In  reference  to  the  competition  which  will  hereafter  exist 


442  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

between  Montreal  and  Albany,  for  the  trade  of  the  upper  lakes, 
I  think  little  question  remains  but  that  a  powerful  diversion 
will  be  effected  from  the  Erie  canal,  when  the  works  on  the 
Ottowa  river  and  the  canals  of  the  Canadian  side  of  the 
Niagara  are  finished. 

"  The  Ottowa  debouches  directly  north  of  La  Chine,  from 
thence  the  water  proceeds  in  a  north-west  course  to  Little 
river,  thence  along  that  river  in  a  south-west  direction  to  a 
point  within  ten  miles  of  Lake  Nepissing,  in  latitude  46  deg. 
30  min.,  thence  on  that  lake  and  French  river  to  Lake  Huron, 
and  thence  on  the  north  shore  of  that  lake  to  the  Falls  of  St. 
Mary,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior.  The  whole  distance 
from  St.  Mary's  to  Montreal  by  this  route  is  estimated  to  be 
one  half  less  than  from  the  same  point  to  Albany  by  the  Erie 
canal." 


443 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

Removal  to  Port  Kent — Aids  Public  Improvements — Crooked  Lake 
Canal — Letter  of  Gen.  McClure — Letter  of  W.  W.  McKay— Conception 
of  Crooked  Lake  Canal — Retirement — Project  of  connecting  Boston 
and  the  St.  Lawrence — Rail  Road — Convention  at  Montpelier — 
Speech — Comments  of  the  Press — Labours — Au  Sable  Valley  Rail 
Road — Temperance  Reform — Address — Cholera — Last  Visit  to  Berk- 
shire— Address  to  the  Society — Testimonials  of  Respect — Theory  of 
Future  Population — Mr.  Clay — Mr.  Seward  and  Mr.  Van  Buren — In- 
cident— Tribute  to  Henry  Coleman — Letter  from  him — Sickness — 
Ruling  Passion — Reflections — Death — Epitaph. 

Mr.  Watson  continued  to  reside  in  Albany  until  1828,  when 
he  finally  left  that  city,  and  removed  to  Port  Kent  on  Lake 
Champlain,  a  village  chiefly  founded  by  himself,  and  which 
became  the  depot  of  the  vast  manufacturing  products  of  the 
valley  of  the  Au  Sable  river.  This  village  occupies  one  of 
the  most  commanding  and  lovely  positions  upon  that  lak^  of 
unsurpassed  beauty.  Its  name  was  derived  from  the  amiable 
and  distinguished  Chancellor,  and  was  a  heartfelt  tribute  from 
the  proprietors  of  respect  for  his  eminent  virtues  and  talents. 

During  several  years  preceding  this  event,  Mr.  Watson  was 
occupied  in  the  promotion  of  various  local  and  public  im- 
provements, in  an  extensive  foreign  and  domestic  correspon- 
dence connected  with  these  objects,  in  the  introduction  and 
dissemination  of  seeds,  and  other  elements  of  agricultural 
science  and  progress. 

The  benefit  of  his  experience  and  observation  was  solicited 
from  different  parts  of  the  country,  not  only  in  the  organization 
of  agricultural  societies  and  the  promulgation  of  practical 
science,  but  his  advice  and  guidance  were  continually  appealed 
to  on  questions  affecting  internal  navigation  and  commerce. 
A  voluminous  correspondence  on  a  multiplicity  of  subjects  of 
this  character  is  in  my  possession.     Mr.  Watson  professed  no 


444  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

practical  knowledge  or  scientific  attainments  in  civil  engineer- 
ing, yet  long  observation,  an  accurate  eye,  and  a  ready  appre- 
hension, enabled  him  to  judge  v^ith  striking  accuracy  of  the 
practicability  of  proposed  works.  The  felicity  of  his  conclu- 
sions and  estimates  on  these  subjects  was  often  singularly  cor- 
roborated by  the  results  of  subsequent  and  elaborate  surveys. 
He  was  frequently  invited  in  this  connection  by  local  associa- 
tions and  public  meetings,  to  make  a  reconnoissance  of  various 
localities,  and  to  present  his  views  on  the  expediency  and 
feasible  nature  of  contemplated  measures. 

I  select  the  subjoined  correspondence  in  reference  to  the 
Crooked  Lake  Canal,  as  illustrative  of  the  extent  and  nature 
of  these  services,  and  interesting  as  it  perpetuates  a  fact  in  the 
history  of  the  internal  improvement  of  the  State.  The  first 
communication  is  from  Geo.  McClure,  somewhat  prominent 
in  the  events  of  the  war  of  1812,  and  the  second  is  a  generous 
tribute  from  the  pen  of  a  highly  esteemed  citizen  of  Steuben, 
who  is  recently  deceased. 

"Bath,  I6th  June,  IS22. 

"  Dear  Sir  : — I  have  the  satisfaction  to  say  to  you,  that  at  the 
meeting  of  the  citizens  of  this  town,  which  was  convened  yesterday 
for  the  purpose  of  deliberating  upon  the  practicability  and  utility 
of  connecting  the  Crooked  Lake  with  Seneca  by  means  of  a  canal, 
a  resolution  of  thanks  was  unanimously  adopted  by  the  meeting, 
for  the  politeness  and  promptitude  with  which  you  attended  at  their 
request,  and  for  the  useful  suggestion  and  enlightened  views  which 
you  were  pleased  to  submit  on  the  occasion — which  resolution  I 
was  requested  to  communicate  to  you.  Be  assured,  sir,  we  all  felt 
a  high  veneration  for  your  services  and  foresight,  particularly  as 
conected  with  the  general  canal  policy  of  the  State.  Permit  me 
therefore  to  add  individually,  the  expression  of  a  hope,  that  the  even- 
ing of  your  days  may  be  as  serene  and  as  happy,  as  their  meridian 
has  been  brilliant  and  useful. 

"  I  am,  dear  sir,  with  perfect  regard,  your  obt'  serv't, 

"  Geo.  McClure,  Chairman. 
"  Elkanah  Watson." 


OR,  MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSOJSf.  445 

"  Bath,  llth  Sep.,  1829. 

"Dear  Sir  : — You  may  recollect  that  when  you  were  on  a  visit 
to  this  country  in  1822,  that  you  suggested  to  some  of  our  pro- 
minent citizens,  the  practicability  of  a  canal  communication  from 
the  Seneca  Lake  at  Dresden,  to  the  Crooked  Lake  at  Penyan,  and 
also  from  the  head  of  the  lake  to  this  place,  thereby  opening  to  our 
country  a  direct  water  communication  with  the  grand  Erie  Canal. 
Your  suggestions  I  well  remember  were  listened  to  at  the  time, 
much  in  the  same  manner  as  we  would  now  regard  an  eloquent  re- 
presentation of  beautiful  countries  in  the  moon,  coming  from  some 
well  favored  old  gentleman,  who  should  profess  having  been  there. 
But  from  your  earnest  recommendation,  a  small  meeting  was  con- 
vened, at  which  some  irresolute  resolutions  were  passed,  such  as  for 
exploring,  corresponding,  &c.,  and  you  probably  left  the  meeting 
and  the  county  under  a  pretty  full  conviction  in  your  own  mind, 
that  would  be  the  last  of  it.  The  sequel,  however,  proves  that  your 
suggestions  have  never  been  lost  sight  of,  and  we  have  now  the  satis- 
faction to  believe  that  the  next  season  will  witness  the  full  completion 
of  a  canal,  between  the  two  lakes,  and  that  at  no  very  distant  day 
the  lake  communication  will  be  extended  to  the  village  of  Bath. 

"  That  your  life  may  be  spared  to  witness  the  full  accomplish- 
ment of  this  iiiiportant  work,  in  originating  which  the  credit  is  cer- 
tainly to  be  ascribed  to  you,  is  the  sincere  wish,  dear  sir,  of  your 
obd't  serv't, 

"W.  W.  McCay. 

"Elkanah  Watson,  Esq.,  Port  Kent. '^^ 

This  brief  comment  is  attached  by  Mr.  Watson  to  the  above 
correspondence,  explanatory  of  the  event. 

"I  embarked  in  the  enterprize  of  projecting  the  canal  allud- 
ed to,  while  incidentally  waiting  for  Gen.  Haight  at  a  Mr. 
To  wnsend's  fom-  miles  from  Bath.  My  attention  had  been  arous- 
ed to  the  subject  by  my  observation  while  traveling  parallel 
to  Crooked  Lake — which  itself  may  be  considered  a  great 
natural  canal." 

Mr.  Watson  resided  at  Port  Kent,  from  his  removal  there 
in  1828  to  his  decease.  The  embellishment  of  his  grounds, 
horticulture  and  agriculture  principally  occupied  his  time. 
He  conducted  numerous  careful  and  valuable  experiments  in 
agricultural  science.  His  mental  ardor  and  activity  were  un- 
abated, and  the  employment  of  his  pen,  in  the  discussion  of 
subjects  of  general  and  sectional  interests,  and  in  a  widely 


446  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION 


extended  correspondence,  was  unyielding,  and  persevered  in  to 
almost  the  close  of  his  life. 

He  embarked,  during  this  period,  with  characteristic  energy 
and  zeal,  in  aiding  in  the  development  of  the  vast  and  unre- 
vealed  resources  of  Northern  New- York,  in  promoting  its  in- 
dustrial pursuits,  and  in  the  advancement  of  various  schemes 
of  local  and  public  improvement.  By  his  individual  efforts 
chiefly,  which  he  persevered  in  for  several  years,  amid  the 
most  perplexing  difficulties  and  embarrassments,  an  appropria- 
tion was  obtained  from  the  State  for  the  construction  of  a 
road  from  Port  Kent  to  Hopkinton  in  St.  Lawrence  county. 
This  work  was  successfully  accomplished,  and  has  formed  the 
important  and  effective  avenue  by  w^bich  an  immense  and 
secluded  region  of  wilderness  has  been  rendered  accessible  to 
emigration  and  enterprize. 

The  last  project  of  an  expanded  public  character  which 
enlisted  the  mind  and  the  exertions  of  Mr.  Watson,  was  a  plan 
of  connecting  Boston  with  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence, 
by  an  artificial  communication.  This  vast  and  magnificent 
conception  was  first,  I  believe,  enunciated,  in  a  correspondence 
between  John  L.  Sullivan,  Esq.,  an  eminent  civil  engineer, 
and  Mr.  Watson,  in  the  year  1827.  This  correspondence, 
which  elaborately  discussed  and  reviewed  all  the  topics  ne- 
cessarily involved  in  the  consideration  of  so  important  a  sub- 
ject, was  widely  published  and  commented  upon  by  the  pub- 
lic press. 

Mr.  Watson,  during  several  years,  devoted  all  his  efforts, 
with  the  enthusiasm  and  determination  of  earlier  life,  to  the 
advancement  of  this  great  object.  A  project  of  a  former 
period,  the  construction  of  a  canal  from  Lake  Champlain  to 
the  St.  Lawrence,  which  he  had  suggested,  and  to  which  he 
had  devoted  much  labor  and  consideration,  proposed  to  tra- 
verse the  same  territory  now  contemplated  for  the  route  of  a 
railroad.  By  his  agency,  the  line  had  been  examinad  by  a 
careful  reconnoissance.  These  labors  had  rendered  him  inti- 
mately familiar  with  the  question  of  the  scheme,  and  had  en- 
abled him  to  amass  an  ample  knowledge  of  the  statistics  and 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  447 

capabilities  of  the  region.  All  these  were  exposed  to  the 
public  mind,  in  the  progress  of  this  correspondence. 

The  pen  of  Mr.  Watson  was  actively  employed  in 
discussing  and  urging  the  purpose,  while  his  personal  labors 
were  indefatigable  in  promoting  explorations  and  surveys  of 
the  country.  The  general  idea  has  since  been  achieved, 
by  a  route,  however  different  from  that  which  he  had  advo- 
cated. The  plan  which  he  sustained,  contemplated  a  terminus 
at  Burlington,  the  transit  of  the  lake,  by  a  ferry,  thence 
passing  up  the  Au  Sable  valley,  and  penetrating  the  barrier  of 
mountains,  by  one  of  the  ravines,  which  intercept  them,  to 
traverse  the  plateau  through  the  heart  of  the  northern  wilder- 
ness, and  descend  to  the  St.  Lawrence  along  the  course  of  one 
of  its  affluents.  The  design  proposed  in  embracing  this 
route,  was  to  secure,  while  it  augmented  the  business  of  the 
iron  manufacturing  district  it  would  traverse,  to  develope 
and  make  tributary  to  the  road  the  vast  forest  tracts  it 
would  open,  and  to  afford  to  the  government  an  avenue  for 
military  purposes,  removed  and  protected  from  the  assaults  of 
a  foreign  enemy. 

The  disclosures  and  experience  of  each  year  seem  to  de- 
monstrate the  wisdom  and  sagacity  of  those  views,  not  alone 
as  to  the  feasibility  of  the  plan,  but  in  reference  to  its  influ- 
ence on  the  financial  interests  of  the  State,  and  the  success 
and  prosperity  of  the  enterprize  itself. 

Mr.  Watson,  as  one  of  the  representatives  of  Essex  county, 
attended  a  large  and  highly  respectable  Convention,  assembled 
for  the  purpose  of  considering  the  subject  of  this  road.  The 
Convention  was  held  at  Montpelier,  Vermont,  in  October,  1830, 
and  was  composed  of  delegates  from  four  different  States. 
The  Hon.  Luther  Bradish  of  New- York  presided.  Mr.  Wat- 
son exercised  a  prominent  participation  in  the  proceedings  of 
this  body,  and  delivered  a  speech  in  a  general  exposition  of 
the  plan  and  vindication  of  the  pohcy  of  the  project. 

This  speech  was  reported  and  published  generally  by  the 
New-England  journals.      The  facts  and  anticipations  it  pre- 


448  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

sented,  exerted,  it  was  said  at  that  period,  a  strong  influence 
in  directing  the  public  mind  to  the  subject.* 

This  magnificent  conception,  to  the  advancement  of  which 
Mr.  Watson  devoted  the  closing  years  of  his  life  with  the  ar- 
dour of  usual  zeal,  was  regarded  by  most  minds  to  be  wild  and 
Utopian.  I  have  before  me  in  various  newspaper  extracts, 
evidences  of  that  ridicule  and  distrust  with  which  he  was  so 
often  assailed,  while  promoting  objects  of  great  and  valuable 
public  improvement. 

The  reports,  addresses,  memorials  and  other  productions 
on  the  subject  of  this  road,  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  Watson,  would 
form  a  volume.  The  enunciation  of  the  original  idea,  of  con- 
necting Boston  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  a  railroad,  may 
with  probable  justice  be  ascribed  to  Mr.  Sullivan,  but  the 
united  voice  of  the  press,  which  at  that  day  spoke  on  the 
subject,  imputed  to  the  zeal  and  efforts  of  Mr.  Watson  a  para- 
mount influence  in  enforcing  the  plan  and  sustaining  the  feeble 
infancy  of  the  enterprize. 

In  connection  with  this  project,  and  as  a  corollary  to  it,  a 
charter  was  obtained  from  the  Legislature  of  ISTew-York  prin- 
cipally through  the  exertions  of  Mr.  Watson,  for  a  railroad 
through  the  Au  Sable  Valley.  Under  this  act  a  company  was 
organized  and  the  stock  subscribed,  but  circumstances,  over 
which  he  had  no  control,   prevented  the  construction  of  the 

road. 

Subsequent  to  his  return  from  Europe,  Mr.  Watson  became 
an  earnest  and  open  advocate  of  a  reform  in  our  national 
habits   in   the    use    of   intoxicating  drinks.     The    great  and 

*  The  following  note  is  appended  to  the  publication  of  this  speech,  by  the 
Massachusetts  Journal  and  Tribune  :  "  We  have  heard  high  encomiums  passed 
upon  the  venerable  Mr.  Watson  for  his  public  spirit  and  active  benevolence. 
He  is  the  father  of  American  Agricultural  societies. 

"  Mr.  Watson  was  born  in  Plymouth,  Mass.,  and  is  descended  from  Gov. 
Winslow  in  the  seventh  generation.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  Wlnslow 
was  the  first  to  introduce  neat  cattle  into  the  Colonies  in  1623.  His  descendant 
was  the  first  to  introduce  a  comprehensive  plan  for  improving  them.  Mr.  Wat- 
son is  warmly  attached  to  his  native  State,  and  formed  the  first  American  Agri- 
cultural Society  in  it  at  Pittsfield  about  twenty  years  ago." 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  449 


favorable  contrast  in  the  customs  of  France,  which  he  had 
observed  in  that  country,  excited  a  deep  solicitude  for  a 
change  in  the  habits  of  our  own  people.  His  journals  con- 
tain constant  allusions  to  this  topic,  and  he  frequently  urged 
its  consideration  upon  the  public  mind  in  various  publications. 
By  his  suggestion,  the  Berkshire  Soci^ety  at  an  early  day  as- 
sumed a  decided  attitude  on  this  subject,  and  exerted  its  influ- 
ence to  arrest  the  use  of  ardent  spirits  as  a  beverage.  The 
Society  offered  premiums  to  promote  the  culture  of  orchards, 
and  the  brewing  of  malt  liquors,  under  the  conviction  that 
the  habitual  use  of  these  articles  would  diminish  the  consump- 
tion of  more  deleterious  drinks.  However  equivocal  that 
measure  may  be  regarded,  viewed  in  the  progress  and  light  of 
the  present  day,  it  was  considered  at  that  time  an  important 
progressive  step  in  the  advance  of  temperance  reformation. 

Among  other  productions  on  the  subject,  Mr.  Watson 
delivered  an  address  at  Keeseville,  in  the  year  1833.  This 
performance  attracted  much  attention  from  the  venerable  age 
of  its  author,  the  ardor  in  which  he  engaged  in  the  cause,  from 
his  wide  and  discriminating  observation,  and  the  earnest  and 
emphatic  testimony  he  offered  to  the  sacredness  and  import- 
ance of  the  temperance  measures  then  in  agitation.  The 
address  was  elaborate,  and  discussed  numerous  views  of  the 
subject.  I  present  a  few  extracts,  believing  them  appropriate 
to  the  issues  of  this  hour,  and  that  they  still  possess  value  and 
may  exert  an  influence  after  even  the  progress  and  experi- 
ments of  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  century. 

After  referring  to  his  intimate  acquaintance,  in  every  grade, 
with  both  the  society  of  Europe  and  America,  he  says  :  "  It  is 
with  no  less  pain  than  humiliation,  that  I  must  in  candor  and 
truth  bear  my  testimony  to  the  world  that,  until  recently  our 
country  has  been  disgraced  by  its  character  for  intemperance. 
We  have  been,  though  unjustly,  stigmatized  as  '  a  nation  of 
drunkards.'  We  all  know  the  injustice  of  this  foul  aspersion 
to  that  extent,  and  have  cause  to  be  thankful,  and  with  reverence 
and  adoring  hearts  to  our  common  Benefactor,  the  Great  and 
Eternal  God,  that  he  has  been  pleased  in  so  great  a  degree  to 

29 


450  MEN  aND  TIMES   OF  THE  REVOLUTION 


arrest  this  foul  stain,  as  it  were  by  a  miracle  far  beyond  our 
comprehension.  All  good  and  pious  men  in  the  virtuous 
days  of  the  Revolution,  firmly  believed  that  the  Almighty  was 
our  Guide  and  Shield,  that  he  would  conduct  us  to  liberty 
and  glory,  and  render  us  a  lamp  and  example  to  the  human 
race.  In  the  eye  of  philosophy  and  in  solemn  reverence,  may 
we  not  rationally  believe  that  blessed  as  we  are  above  all 
nations,  that  he  will  not  permit  us  to  be  cast  into  a  deep  shade 
by  being  an  intemperate  community. 

"  In  my  travels  in  Europe,  I  found  the  northern  nations  much 
addicted  to  intemperance,  but  the  southern  almost  exempt 
from  the  fatal  vice.  In  evidence  of  this  truth  it  is  said  by  the 
laws  of  Spain,  no  man  can  give  testimony  who  has  been  once 
detected  in  liquor. 

"  My  respected  old  friend,  John  Adams,  once  truly  said,  that 
there  were  more  drunkards  in  North  America  than  in  any 
other  country  of  equal  population."  Mr.  Watson  attempts  to 
trace  the  national  habit  of  intemperance  to  our  origin  as  colo- 
nies, and  thus  continues :  "  I  can  truly  say,  and  say  with  great 
pleasure,  that  during  a  residence  of  five  years  in  France,  I  saw 
but  two  men  disguised  in  liquor,  and  these  in  the  very  dregs 
of  society.  No  decent  man  could  be  thus  exposed  without 
being  banished  from  all  female  society,  with  the  indelible  marks 
of  disgrace.  Contrast  this  happy  state  of  morality,  as  to  tem- 
perance, with  a  disgusting  drunken  frolic  of  our  revolutionary 
epoch.  Many  such  have  passed  in  review  under  my  own 
eyes.  Behold  men  otherwise  respectful,  at  their  first  meeting, 
in  mutual  polite  civilities;  the  accursed  bottle  is  introduced ; 
by  degrees  their  voices  swell  into  vociferous  confusion — all 
talkers  but  no  hearers ;  they  are  all  seized  with  a  species  of 
madness  and  delirium — the  door  is  locked  by  a  universal  shout 
of  approbation,  that  no  man  should  pass  that  threshold  sober. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  that  a  sober  Indian  would  blush  to  witness 
the  sickening  sequel — man  piled  upon  man  cascading  in  con- 
cert. 

''  It  is  now  upwards  of  twenty  years  since  the  first  agricul- 
tural society  was  organized  in  Massachusetts  upon  the  modern 


OR,    MEMOIRS   OF  ELK  AN  AH  WATSON.  451 

plan.  They  assailed  in  an  open  and  public  manner  the  vice 
of  intemperance,  both  by  precept  and  example.  The  most 
efficient  course  adopted  was  by  granting  liberal  premiums  on 
the  extension  of  orchards  and  the  brewing  of  malt  liquor,  as  a 
substitute  for  ardent  spirits." 

Mr.  Watson  proceeds  to  indicate  the  progress  of  the  tempe- 
rance societies,  the  effect  of  Dr.  Beecher's  publications,  and 
the  necessity  of  prompt  and  decisive  self-control.  He  thus 
narrates  his  own  experience  : — "  In  the  year  1791  my  destiny 
carried  me  by  water  from  Schenectady  to  Seneca  Lake.  It 
was  then  like  a  voyage  to  the  East  Indies  ;  few  had  made  it 
except  Indian  traders.  I  went  in  an  open  bateau  to  spy  out 
the  wilderness,  and  exploring  as  to  the  practicability  of  canals 
to  connect  the  great  western  waters  with  the  Atlantic  Ocean  ; 
being  exposed  to  the  use  of  impure  water,  to  constant  exam- 
ple, and  having  for  six  weeks  no  covering  but  the  blue  vault  of 
heaven  and  its  spangled  stars,  except  an  occasional  shelter. 
Under  these  circumstances  I  first  contracted  the  habit  of  grog- 
drinking  ;  fortunately,  for  me  and  mine,  it  was  but  temporary- 
On  my  return  to  my  family  I  regularly  took  my  four  o'clock 
grog ;  then  four  and  six  o'clock,  and  soon  four,  six  and  eight 
o'clock.  When  I  reached  this  point  my  best  friend,  justly 
alarmed,  gave  me  a  gentle  rap  over  the  knuckles.  I  instantly 
put  my  foot  down,  determined  that  the  love  of  liquor  should 
never  be  my  master.  It  is  in  this  way,  by  indulgence  in  the 
habit,  that  drunkards  are  coined."  After  enforcing  these  views 
by  further  illustrations,  he  continues — "  It  does  appear  to  me 
that  the  subject  of  intemperance  has  been  sufficiently  probed, 
dissected  and  discussed,  in  the  abstract,  in  every  section  of  the 
Union,  with  all  its  attendant  evils ;  and  that  in  consequence 
well-disposed,  good  citizens  have  taken  their  stand,  determined 
on  their  course  of  action.  Thus,  then,  let  it  be  pronounced  in 
the  profoundest  humility,  and  due  reverence  before  God  and 
man,  that  public  opmion  is  established.  I  repeat  from  the 
house-tops,  in  a  loud  voice — public  opinion  is  established  ;  and 
will  unceasingly  act  in  unison,  with  vigor  and  effect,  which  canno^ 
be  resisted,  to  strike  at  the  root  of  this  infernal  malady,  and 


452  MEN  AND   TIMES  OF  THE   EEVOLUTlON ; 

thus,  by  various  measures,  prostrate  all  its  votaries  to  the 
earth. 

"  Having  reached  this  result,  let  your  future  measures  be  more 
practicable,  less  theoretical,  and  of  a  more  decisive  cast ;  to 
lead  with  a  silken  cord  when  expedient,  to  coerce  where  there 
is  hope,  to  abandon  the  incorrigible  to  their  fate  and  the  house 
of  correction.  These  lines<  of  demarcation  will  enable  the 
whole  army  of  reformers  to  bring  their  artillery  to  bear  on  the 
most  assailable  points,  with  sure  aim  and  certain  effect.  Let 
there  be  asylums  provided  in  every  county  or  district  in  the 
State,  under  the  sanction  of  the  laws,  there  to  confine  the  in- 
corrigible without  any  respect  to  persons  ;  the  bottle  to  be  ab- 
solutely and  unreservedly  withheld  from  their  touch ;  to  be 
thus  confined  until  a  complete  reformation  shall  be  pronoun- 
ced,—on  the  first  violation  to  be  returned  to  their  cells  for  the 

short  remnant  of  their   worthless  lives." 

"  Let  all  tavern-keepers  be  amply  rewarded  by  the  patriotic 
and  the  just,  I  may  say  the  pious,  portion  of  the  community, 
who  as  travellers,  and  from  other  causes,  find  themselves  in 

public  houses." "  The  true 

cause  should  be  to  induce  innholders  to  withdraw  their  parade 
of  bottles  of  liquid  poison  from  their  bars,  which  may  justly 
be  regarded  as  the  impure  altar,  at  which,  if  1  may  so  say,  oner 
half  of  the  drunkards  have  been  initiated.  Let  them  confine 
themselves  to  hot  coffee,  cider,  malt  liquor,  sweet  milk,  and 
lemonade — the  usual  price  to  be  doubled  on  the  former,  and 
for  every  glass  of  the  latter,  and  even  pure  water,  the  unadul- 
terated liquor  of  nature,  let  individuals,  stimulated  by  public 
sentiment,  and  in  a  spirit  of  liberality,  pay  the  price  of  grog, 
and  so  call  it,  if  be  thinks  best."  ..... 

Mr.  Watson  then  discusses,  at  considerable  length,  the  ques- 
tion of  temperance,  in  reference  to  its  effect  upon  the  claims 
and  privileges  of  the  vendors  of  liquors.  He  thus  continues  : 
"  Suppose,  then,  for  a  moment,  that  the  revised  laws  of  this 
glorious  State  had  interdicted  ardent  spirits  from  all  public 
houses,  and  that  landlords  were  confined  to  the  provisions  I 
have  just  detailed,  I  ask  would  not  the  present  number  be  re- 


OR,    MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH  WATSON".  453 

duced  one-half?  and  would  not  that  half  be  adequate  to  public 
convenience,  instead  of  offending  the  eye  of  patriotism  by  an 
excess  of  loathsome  bar-rooms,  everywhere  to  engender  habits 
in  our  youth,  which  they  never  otherwise  would  have  imbibed, 
and  thus  also  save  the  character  of  the  nation  from  pollution. 
And  why,  I  repeat,  why  should  a  class  of  men  be  thus  patron- 
ized and  encouraged,  at  such  an  awful  expense  to  the  nation — 
and  yet  more,  to  millions  on  millions  of  posterity  ?" 

Mr,  Watson  adverts  to  the  history  and  devastation  of  the 
cholera  fn  Asia  and  Europe,  and  exhibits  the  historic  fact,  that 
its  most  fatal  ravages  had  fallen  upon  the  vicious  and  intem- 
perate. He  then  applies  the  coincidence — "  Have  we  not 
deep  cause  to  apprehend,  from  our  perpetual  intercourse  with 
England,  that  the  destroying  angel  will  direct  his  course  across 
the  Atlantic  ?  Should  that  be  our  terrible  destiny,  is  it  not 
probable  that  the  cholera  will  sweep  from  the  face  of  our  soil 
all  the  individuals  whom  Temperance  Societies  shall  fail  to 
reclaim/'*  He  closes  his  address  by  solemn  admonitions  and 
blessings  upon  the  efforts  of  the  Society,  "  in  the  capacity  of 
an  old  man,  four  years  beyond  the  full  term  of  human  life,  and 
on  the  verge  of  eternity." 

Mr.  Watson  was  frequently  called  from  his  retirement  at 
Port  Kent,  to  participate  in  the  festivals  of  various  Agricul- 
tural  Societies,  and  by  particular  solicitation  he  attended  in 

*  "  In  six  short  weeks  my  apprehensions  as  to  the  cholera  were  most  fatally- 
verified.  It  appeared  at  Quebec,  advanced  to  Montreal,  where  its  ravages  were 
appalling.  Thence  it  proceeded  South  and  West,  and  spread  rapidly,  even  to 
Chicago,  fastening  upon  Plattsburgh,  Burlington,  and  Whitehall ;  in  its  south- 
ern course  it  burst  upon  New-York,  Albany,  and  most  of  the  towns  and  vil- 
lages on  the  Hudson,  and  from  thence  to  Long-Island  and  Connecticut.  It 
raged  an  awful  scourge  throughout  the  land.  Most  of  the  steamboats  were 
stopped  on  the  lake,  commerce  totally  at  a  stand.  At  this  moment,  8th  August, 
a  universal  gloom  pervades  the  nation.  All  seem  to  feel  that  they  are  trembling 
upon  the  brink  of  the  tomb,  with  uplifted  hands,  crying  to  the  great  Jehovah  for 
protection  and  relief.  Fasts  are  held  everywhere,  and  it  seems  in  some  places 
as  if  the  judgment  of  Heaven  was  stayed  suddenly,  and  in  almost  a  miraculous 
manner ;  but  often,  after  leaving  a  city,  it  would  return,  and  again  burst 
forth  with  redoubled  violence.  Amen  !  God's  will  be  done." — Manuscript  Note 
attached  to  a  Printed  Copy  of  the  Address  of  Mr    Watson. 


454  MEN  AND  TIMES  OP  THE  REVOLUTION; 

October,  1837,  the  Twenty-Seventh  Anniversary  of  the  Berk- 
shire Society. 

The  occasion  was  one  of  deep  interest  and  connected  with 
the  most  gratifying  incidents.  The  public  and  private  exhibi- 
tion of  respect  and  kind  recollections  he  received,  were  most 
satisfactory  to  his  feelings,  and  attested  the  ample  appreciation 
by  that  community,  of  his  labors  and  services  as  the  founder 
of  their  institution.  Mr.  Watson  delivered  on  this  occasion 
his  last  address  before  the  society.  It  was  his  valedictory  to 
all  these  associations,  and  here  appropriately  terminated  his 
public  course.     His  address  closed  with  this  paragraph — 

"  Permit  me,  gentlemen,  bending  under  the  weight  of  years, 
once  more  to  bid  you  an  affectionate— a  final  adieu.  That 
the  Eternal  may  continue  to  shower  his  benedictions  on  your 
heads,  and  inspire  your  hearts  and  those  of  your  descendants 
in  process  of  time,  to  uphold  and  sustain  the  society  in  all  its 
original  purity,  through  many  generations,  is  my  earnest 
prayer — once  more,  a  long,  long  farewell." 

I  shall,  I  trust,  be  pardoned,  for  introducing  the  very  mark- 
ed expression  conveyed  in  the  following  action  of  this  society. 
My  father  cherished  and  preserved  it  as  one  of  the  most 
grateful  and  consoling  tributes  of  approbation  he  had  received 
and  garnered  up  from  his  long  and  active  labors. 

"  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society. 

"PiTTSFIELD,  Oct.  5th,  1837. 
[Extracts  from  the  record  of  the  Annual  Meeting.] 

"  On  motion  of  Henry  H.  Childs,  Resolved,  That  the  Society 
be  instructed  to  address  a  letter  to  the  Hon.  Elkanah  Watson, 
whose  name  is  so  honorably  associated  with  the  early  history 
of  this  Society,  and  to  assure  him  on  behalf  of  the  Society  of 
the  high  gratification  they  have  experienced  at  meeting  him 
once  more  upon  this  its  Twenty-seventh  Anniversary,  and  to 
return  him  their  thanks  for  the  very  interesting  remarks  with 
which  he  has  this  day  favored  the  Society,  and  the  audience 
assembled."  A  true  copy  of  the  record. 

Julius  Rockwell,  Secr'^y. 


OR,   MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANaH  WATSON.  455 


"  Respected  Sir  : 

"  It  is  with  great  pleasure  that  I  comply  with  the  instructions  of 
the  above  Resolve,  which  was  unanimously  and  enthusiastically 
adopted  by  the  Society. 

"  With  high  respect  your  obedient  servant, 

"  Julius  Rockwell,  Secretary. 


Hon.  Elkanah  Watson.' 


The  following  interesting  speculations  in  reference  to  the 
progress  of  American  population  were  written  in  the  year 
1815.  The  original  is  on  file  among  the  papers  of  Mr.  Wat- 
son. The  approximation  of  these  calculations  to  the  actual 
result  has  been  strikingly  exemplified  by  each  succeeding 
census,  and  I  have  deemed  the  document  worthy  of  preserva- 
tion for  future  reference. 

A  View  of  the  Progress  of  the  Population  in  the  United  States, 
.written  m  1815. 

In  1810  it  was  7,239,903.  The  increase  from  1790,  the  first 
census  under  the  constitution,  has  been  about  one-third  at 
each  census :  admitting  it  shall  continue  to  increase  in  the 
same  ratio,  the  result  will  be  as  follows, 

In  1820 9,625,734  the  actual  result  was    9,638,151 

"  1830 12,833.645.- 12,866,020 

"  1840. 17,116,526 '17,062,566 

''  1850 23,185,368* 

"  I860 31,753,824 

"  1870 42,328,432 

"  1880 56,450,241   • 

•'  1890 77,266,989 

"  1900 100,355,985 

It  is  barely  possible  that  I  may  live  to  witness  the  census 
of  1850;  if  so,  I  shall  fill  up  that  blank  and  leave  the  rest  to 
my  descendants. 

*  The  results  of  the  three  censuses  succeeding  this  estimate  was  added  in  a 
note  by  Mr.  Watson.     The  actual  result  of  the  census  of  1850  was  23,191,876. 


456  MEN  AND   TIMES   OF  THE  KEVOLUTION ; 

"It  will  be  almost  presumptuous  to  stretch  our  minds  through 
the  ensuing  century,  and  yet  taking  as  a  basis  one  hundred 
millions  at  the  close  of  this  century,  and  in  consideration  of 
dense  population,  intestine  and  foreign  wars,  a  possible  subdi- 
vision in  consequence  into  several  republics,  we  will  suppose 
the  increase  will  be  one  third  in  each  twenty  years,  for  forty 
years,  one  third  the  next  thirty,  and  one  fifth  for  the  next  forty 
years.     It  will  stand  thus  : 

For  1930,  133,000,000,  in  round  numbers. 

"  1940,  177,000,000,  "  " 

"  1970,  236,000,000,  «  «  ^ 

"  2000,  283,000,000,  probably  300,000,000, 

equal  to  the  population  of  China. 

"  Such  a  deep  plunge  into  the  hidden  mysteries  of  futurity, 
through  the  confines  of  six  generations,  ought  to  have  a  salu- 
tary influence  upon  all  the  busy  actors  on  the  theatre  of  the 
present  and  succeeding  ages. 

*'The  probability  is  that,  not  a  single  mortal  now  at  the  age 
of  manhood  will  see  the  close  of  this  century,  although  many 
now  in  infancy  may  live  to  witness  that  proud  era  of  American 
glory.  What  a  solemn  responsibility  therefore  devolves  on 
the  conspicuous  actors  of  the  present  day.  The  virtues,  the 
vices,  the  morals  and  corruptions  of  this  generation  will 
descend  in  their  influences  to  those  remote  periods,  and  form 
the  basis  on  which  will  be  grounded  the  national  character, 
manners  and  habits  of  one  hundred  millions  of  Americans  at 
the  close  of  this  century. 

Ca-Ira. 

"  The  result  up  to  the  census  of  1840,  commencing  with  that 
of  1820,  was  thus: 

OVER.  UNDER. 

In  1820, 12,151, — 

'•'    1830, 32,375, — 

"    1840, 165,983 

44,526 

44,526 

Short  of  my  estimate  in  25  years,  121,457. 


OR,  MEMOIRS   OF  ELKANAH    WATSON,  457 

I  have  already  remarked  that  Mr.  Watson  seldom  asso- 
ciated himself  in  partizan  zeal  with  any  political  sect.  He 
uniformly  voted,  but  with  no  guidance  but  his  own  convic- 
tions, and  with  no  party  restraints.  His  sentiments  were 
catholic,  embracing  in  his  affections  the  whole  Union,  and 
extending  his  confidence  to  political  men  whom  he  esteemed 
patriotic  and  honest,  without  regard  to  mere  party  names. 
Agreeable  and  gratifying  incidents  which  occurred  in  the 
political  campaign  of  1839,  preparatory  to  the  great  contest 
of  '40,  exhibit  these  traits.  On  an  evening  in  August  of  the 
former  year,  Gov.  Seward  arrived  at  Mr.  Watson's  residence 
by  the  southern  boat,  and  within  an  hour  afterwards  Mr. 
Clay  reached  there  from  the  north.  The  first  was  a  former 
acquaintance  of  Mr.  Watson,  the  latter  a  personal  stranger. 
The  partizans  of  these  whig  luminaries  assembled  in  crowds 
to  receive  them,  and  for  this  purpose  the  house  of  Mr. 
Watson  was  freely  opened  and  illuminated,  and  his  saloons 
converted  into  reception  rooms  for  the  levee  of  his  guests. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  Mr.  Van  Buren  arrived  at  the  man- 
sion of  Mr.  Watson,  which  was  again  luminous  and  spread 
open  to  a  new  cloud  of  votaries,  and  thronged  by  the  Demo- 
cratic masses.  It  was  the  homage  of  an  aged  and  departing 
republican — not  to  the  leaders  of  party,  but  to  his  country — 
to  the  eminence  of  prominent  and  distinguished  men  of  a  new 
generation. 

The  journal  of  Mr.  Watson,  in  which  he  was  accustomed  to 
review,  in  the  form  of  a  summary,  the  events  of  the  preceding 
year,  upon  each  anniversary  of  his  birth,  was  continued  to 
January  22d,  1842,  which  was  the  year  of  his  decease.  The 
last  letter  attached  to  the  pages  of  this  work,  was  one  from 
the  eminent  agricultural  writer,  the  late  Henry  Coleman ;  and 
by  a  happy  and  apt  coincidence,  the  final  paragraph  of  his 
journal  recorded  the  following  tribute  to  the  character  and 
services  of  Mr.  Coleman : 

"In  the  month  of  September  of  this  year  I  received  the 
annexed  letter  from  the  Rev.   Henry  Coleman,  one   of  the 


458  MEN   AND  TIMES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION; 

most  successful  agriculturists  of  the  age.  He  was  formerly,  I 
believe,  a  Professor  at  Harvard,  a  preacher  of  the  Unitarian 
doctrines  which  predominate  at  that  venerable  institution. 
Mr.  Coleman  has  for  several  years  devoted  his  talents  to 
the  promotion  and  improvement  of  agriculture  as  a  science — 
for  the  last  six  he  has  been  employed  by  the  noble  State  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, in  visiting  all  the  towns  of  the  interior  counties,  and 
most  of  the  prominent  farmers  personally,  for  the  distinct  pur- 
pose of  investigating  the  condition  and  resources  of  agriculture 
and  for  the  dissemination  of  practical  knowledge  in  husbandry. 
This  is  a  broad  field  of  high  and  responsible  duty.  Few 
individuals  have  been  more  useful  in  exciting  a  powerful  and 
wide-spread  influence  upon  agriculture.  Fortunately  for  me 
he  was  engaged  at  the  time  of  my  visit  in  1837,  in  his  tour 
of  Berkshire,  and  was  seated  at  my  left  hand  at  the  dinner 
table,  where  he  delivered  a  most  excellent  address. 

,*  Burlington,  Vt.  Sept.  21,  1841. 
"Hon.  Elkanah  Watson: 

"Dear  Sir, — I  am  much  obliged  by  your  several  pamphlets  and  let- 
ters, all  of  which  I  have  carefully  read.  I  will  forward  you  some 
agricultural  pamphlets  soon  after  my  return  to  Boston,  which  will  be 
by  the  middle  of  next  month.  I  shall  value  the  engraving  which  you 
have  politely  sent  me,  as  that  of  an  individual  whose  public-spirited, 
enli^yhtened,  and  disinterested  exertions  and  sacrifices  to  advance  the 
cause  of  an  improved  agriculture  and  that  of  public  internal  improve- 
ments generally,  have  not  been  surpassed  by  any  citizen  in  the 
country. 

"The  public,  throughout  the  county  of  Berkshire  in  particular,  and 
in  the  State  of  New-York  and  the  country  at  large,  are  now  enjoying 
the  valuable  fruits  of  your  labors.  This  is  your  reward,  and  not  a 
small  one  to  a  patriot  and  philanthropist. 

"  I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully  yours, 

"  Henry  Coleman.  " 

Physical  infirmities,  attended  with  severe  suffering,  were 
now  rapidly  and  surely  prostrating  the  frame  of  Mr.  Watson, 
He  saw  and  realized  the  admonition,  and  prepared  in  calm- 
ness and  resignation  for  his  departure.  He  had  attained  to  a 
great  age  ;  he  felt  that  his  destiny  had  been  accomplished  ;  and 
in  the  language  of  Dr.  Franklin  addressed  to  himself  half  a 


OR,    MEMOIRS  OF  ELKANAH  WATSON.  459 

century  before,  and  to  which  he  often  referred,  *'  that  it  was 
time  for  him  to  leave  the  stage  to  others." 

His  intellectual  powers  remained  unimpaired  and  his  mental 
industry  unabated.  His  pen  continued  to  be  his  constant  oc- 
cupation and  solace.  His  last  thoughts  clung  to  those  themes 
to  which  his  mind  and  life  bad  been  consecrated.  Amid  the 
final  throes  of  nature,  when  the  curtains  of  earth  had  closed 
about  him,  and  4;he  consciousness  of  external  objects  shut  out, 
"  the  ruling  passion  strong  in  death  "  still  animated  and  light- 
ened his  mind.  Enquiring  for  a  member  of  his  family  who 
then  stood  over  his  bed,  he  added,  ''  ah  yes,  I  know — he  has 
gone  to  Plattsburgh  after  that  Railroad  Act ;"  and  then  raising 
himself  from  his  bed,  he  exclaimed,  in  the  delirium  of  approach- 
ing death,  with  the  strongest  emphasis  and  most  earnest  ges- 
ticulation, "  Yonder  is  the  tract  of  the  road,  and  at  this  point 
it  must  terminate."     These  were  the  last  words  he  uttered. 

Few  citizens  have  yielded  to  the  advancement  of  the  great 
interests  of  their  country  more  ardent  enthusiasm  and  self- 
sacrificing  zeal.  The  fact  that  a  devotion  to  public  concerns 
impaired  the  private  fortune  of  Mr.  Watson,  attests  the  purity 
and  disinterestedness  of  his  motives.  Some  of  the  projects  he 
advocated  were  perhaps  visionary  and  extravagant,  while  many, 
which  at  their  initiation  found  little  favor  or  response  in  public 
sentiment,  have  proved  in  their  results  the  sagacity  and  fore- 
cast of  his  theories.  Impatient  at  the  listless  and  calculating 
spirit  of  doubt  and  scepticism  that  often  crossed  his  path  and 
fettered  his  enthusiasm,  he  sometimes  resisted  it  with  an  im- 
petuous zeal  rather  than  by  conciliatory  moderation,  and  thus 
often  animated  hostility  when  he  might  have  disarmed  opposi- 
tion. 

He  wrote  with  great  fluency  and  with  a  rapid  hand,  in  a 
nervous  and  elevated  style,  wanting  often,  however,  the  polish 
and  precision  which  is  formed  by  finished  education.  He 
was  not  learned  in  science  or  accomplished  in  literature. 
Men  and  nature  were  the  books  he  studied,  and  from  the 
enlarged  views  formed  by  travel  and  close  and  vigilant  obser- 
vation  in  a  long  and  variegated  career,  he  had  accumulated 
no  ordinary  fund  of  interesting  facts  and  valuable  information. 


460  MEN  AND  TIMES  OF  THE   REVOLUTION; 

Mr.  Watson  died  at  Port  Kent,  December  5th,  1842,  in  the 
eighty-fifth  year  of  his  age.  A  plain  and  simple  obelisk  is 
erected  over  his  grave,  bearing  this  inscription  : 

HERE    LIES    THE    REMAINS 
OF 

ElKANAH  WATSON, 

THE     FOUNDER     AND     FIRST    PRESIDENT 
OF 

THE  BERKSHIRE  AGRICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 

MAY    GENERATIONS    YET    UNBORN 

Hearn  6a  ¥^  example 
TO  LOVE  THEIR  COUNTRY  • 


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